OK, back to basics.
1 Are you bleeding it correctly?
Dont allow pumped fluid to be drawn back when lifting the brake pedal. Fit
a plastic tube to the bleed nipple. Run the tube to a container of brake
fluid. Ensure the end of the tube is emersed in brake fluid when pumping.
Nip off the bleeder, before lifting the pedal. This takes two people one to
operate the bleed nipple and one to pump the pedal.
2 Does fluid flow cleanly (no air bubbles) from the master cylinder bleeder
or outlet pipe?
If not fix it. (Bleed it or repair it)
If yes,
3 Does fluid flow cleanly from each of the four wheel cylinders, after being
bled in the order FR/FL/RR/RL?
If no, find out why.
If yes,
After locking all bleeders hold down the brake pedal and check for leaks
thoughout all brake lines and flexible hoses - particularly check for cracks
in hoses and fluid leaks at pipe connections. These can be hard to detect
if the component fitting is wet with fluid.
3 If the fluid is flowing air free through the system, with no leaks, check
the operation of the Power Booster. Probably a job for a professional Brake
Mechanic.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adam Jackson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 9:13 PM
Subject: Re: Brake Problem
Richard & Matt,
Thanks - that's the way I have it setup atm. I still can't find the
problem - brakes have zero power - infact I jacked up the back took off
the wheels, started up the motor and put it in gear. I just let the
engines idle spin the discs. I jump on the brakes and it doesn't seem to
have much clamping force. I'd expect it to stall the engine straight
away - but i had to really stomp on the brakes to get that to happen.
Bit lost with this problem. I can't find any leaks, fluid is getting to
all calipers as I have bled them all and no air is coming out. I think i'm
going to bleed the brakes with a couple of bottles of fluid just to be
sure.
Are there any other reasons that may cause zero power in the brake system?
The booster has kicked the bucket perhaps? Is there anyway of checking the
booster is working correctly?
cheers,
Adam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 8:35 PM
Subject: Re: Brake Problem
I would recommend Nipple up, so air bleeds out first. Nipple down will
leave the air trapped inside while fluid runs out.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adam Jackson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 9:45 AM
Subject: Re: Brake Problem
Ok - sorry if there was areply to this already, I had a problem with my
email and it's deleted all of the last 3 or 4 days worth of emails :\
I just checked my mastercylinder and it has 7/8 clearly stamped on the
side of it. So i'm guessing maybe a leak? I'm yet to find a leak -
everything seems pretty good and the brakes were bled with zero bubbles
coming out. Also, i'm still a little concerned about the front brakes -
which side is which??? ie nipple up top or bottom - I remember on a
mates 180sx we put on new brakes and forgot which was L and R and ended
up putting them on the wrong sides they didn't work at all but swap them
over and problem solved. Would this be the case with the VL Turbo
calipers too?
cheers,
Adam
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