The thinned Rustoleum takes MANY coats. I learned this the hard way the second
time I sanded through it. In the end I think I ended up with 20 coats.
-Curt
From: Randy Bennell via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Cc: Randy Bennell <rbenn...@bennell.ca>
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2016 1:04 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job
On 15/09/2016 11:58 PM, clay via Mercedes wrote:
> I am having a fine time learning how to paint a car with rattle cans. As
> days flow by, I am taught all the errors I have executed. I also get better
> at making fixes to these errors. Shaving the drips, better sweeping the
> spray, gooder sanding with water as well as the soapy spray bottle.
>
> I am getting closer to final product. The green is a real PITA to deal with.
> I am using el cheapo white rattle can as top coat. Lowes $0.99 white gloss
> that really seems to not cover for shite, but when sanded it is really
> smooth. I think I have ten cans of the stuff, so will do multiple coats and
> sand between. One can did front or back, or maybe the whole top as one coat.
> Right now I am doing 1000 grit wet sand on the white. Should I step up to
> 1500 or 2000? I am thinking maybe final coats would be done with 3000 - 5000
> step.
>
> I have three coats of green down. Last sand was 2000. It takes forever to
> cure. Should I try to step to 5000. I much prefer one stage paint over
> clear. Will this work or should I just go ahead and put a few coats of clear
> over both green and white? What grit should I use between coats if I do
> clear coat?
>
> Opinions are welcome, I do not need scripture. If I am able to do one step,
> how long should I wait before trying to polish? Do I begin with an
> aggressive compound?
>
>
> clay
>
I think you should have used thinned Rustoleum and foamy rollers instead.
Should be less expensive and easier to get more paint on. Rattle can
paint tends to be pretty thin.
RB
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