>
> A fine way to achieve the PWM dimming you want with a low-voltage Nixie
> driver is to have a current measurement device in the power supply's
> feedback path, which is conveniently provided from the common emitter
> terminal of the TD62083 (ULN2083).

I think this is what you have done in your nixie watch. It will
effectively increase the anode voltage until ionization has taken
place.

>
> You can detect when the tube begins to ionize by sensing the current
> using a comparator such as an LM339 working across a small resistor to
> make <1V drop from emitter to B-, and use this time to start the on-time
> countdown in the PWM dimming code. You then have to reduce the OFF time
> after that pulse by the measured ionization delay.

In this case I would need 2 comparators to distinguish through which
tube the current flows because the current will flow but it will flow
through the wrong tube. I can see my anode voltage rise to 170V but
the tube doesn't light up, as there if no reason the voltage rise
should stop at 170V, the only explanation is that the current starts
to flow through the wrong tube. I have measured that current can flow
through the nixie down to about 120V. Interestingly, 120V + 50V zener
is exactly the 170V that I measure at my anode voltage.

And then, after I have detected that the current flows through the
wrong tube, there is nothing I can do about it unless I add more
circuitry to be able to stop the current flowing through the wrong
tube.

>
> The advantage of this method is that it will produce a more uniform
> brightness in your dimmed display, since you are guaranteed that the
> ionization time is taken into account. Plus, you can use the small,
> low-cost driver chips.
>

If all these features are added, it will probably produce a more
uniform brightness, but I can see from the amount of PCB space that I
have left over that it is not going to fit :-).

Michel

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