I need some help with my crank bearings. I am doing a rebuild of a
salvage motor. Let me preface my question with this: "I know that I
SHOULD take this motor apart and check everything properly, but I am
trying to limit my labor time on this."

OK I have the oil pan, cylinder head, cylinder, and pistons all
pulled. So I am looking at the crankcase with the con-rods moving
freely. Well, almost. The #3 is a bit to sticky for my liking. So I
take the rod off (you can get to it through the oil pan opening). I
put the bearing halves back in the opening of the con-rod and I see
that the bearing has been warped, because is is out of round with the
opening of the con-rod. So I want to replace the bearing, of course.
The con-rod is marked with a 2 and D. The old bearing thickness is
0.056" and is marked AK16B. I am looking at my Clymer manual and it
states that I have to cross reference these markings with markings on
the end of the crankshaft. The result should be one of 5 bearing
sizes, and 3 of these sizes will work for a #2 rod and they are
called: green, brown, or black. "This is great," I said. "I will just
measure the old one and order a new one." The measurement of my old
bearing is quite a bit less than the thicknesses listed in the book,
so I know that it is bad.

So let me boil this down to the questions that I have:

1) How do these color designations transfer to the actual parts? There
are 5 colors listed in the Clymer, and 6 lettered bearings in the
parts fiche (A-F)? Does anyone have the thickness specs of the A-F
bearings (maybe from the Honda shop manual)?

2) Is the old bearing small and warped because of excessive wear? What
caused this, and how can I prevent it from happening again? (BTW, the
crank journal is in very good shape) Should I be looking for a clogged
oil passage?

3) How can I establish what size bearing to use without taking the
case apart? I am having a hard time getting a caliper / micrometer in
the cylinder hole to get a good read, and my best improvised measuring
device is no match for the .0001 precision needed here.

4) Are OEM bearings sold in pairs/matching sets, or do you have to buy
2 for each con-rod? I was thinking about maybe trying all 3 sizes
rated for a #2 con-rod, and using the one that worked the best. This
would not be fun if I have to buy 2 of each size @ $9 each.

5) OR......should I just split the cases and stop belly-aching?

Thanks for the advice!

ZMAN

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