The explanation would take too long and most here are weary of my tirades. You only need Plasti-gauge and a torque wrench plus a decent micrometer. Install the bearing with a piece of the gauge and tighten to spec. . Remove and measure. Recheck your work a second time. If you have access to fine measuring instruments, I'd assemble the rod and check for ROUND ID against the shop spec. Also mike the crank pin OD against shop spec. any out-of-round parts MUST be replaced or failure will occur. Never re-use piston pin C clips, and I recommend new rod bolts too. Your call on that.
--- On Tue, 2/24/09, ZMAN <[email protected]> wrote: From: ZMAN <[email protected]> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Crank bearings To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> Date: Tuesday, February 24, 2009, 8:04 AM Ah... so the term is "piggy-backed." Interesting. So you recommend the black bearing size. Any particular reason? Any advice for matching "black" with a letter designation (a-f) on the parts list? Thanks for the help! LZ On Feb 23, 10:16 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > Why not split the cases ? You've come so far anyway. The trick is to use plasti-gauge to check your work. #Hint use the black bearings. Yes there is a chart, use the black bearings. Make sure the crank pin is ROUND... use the black bearings. The term is "piggy-backed" to describe that condition. Mike the pin and rod to insure both are ROUND and not misshapen. You should do this job only once. Short-cuts will have you doing it twice. > > --- On Mon, 2/23/09, ZMAN <[email protected]> wrote: > From: ZMAN <[email protected]> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Crank bearings > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> > Date: Monday, February 23, 2009, 9:48 PM > > I need some help with my crank bearings. I am doing a rebuild of a > salvage motor. Let me preface my question with this: "I know that I > SHOULD take this motor apart and check everything properly, but I am > trying to limit my labor time on this." > > OK I have the oil pan, cylinder head, cylinder, and pistons all > pulled. So I am looking at the crankcase with the con-rods moving > freely. Well, almost. The #3 is a bit to sticky for my liking. So I > take the rod off (you can get to it through the oil pan opening). I > put the bearing halves back in the opening of the con-rod and I see > that the bearing has been warped, because is is out of round with the > opening of the con-rod. So I want to replace the bearing, of course. > The con-rod is marked with a 2 and D. The old bearing thickness is > 0.056" and is marked AK16B. I am looking at my Clymer manual and it > states that I have to cross reference these markings with markings on > the end of the crankshaft. The result should be one of 5 bearing > sizes, and 3 of these sizes will work for a #2 rod and they are > called: green, brown, or black. "This is great," I said. "I will > just > measure the old one and order a new one." The measurement of my old > bearing is quite a bit less than the thicknesses listed in the book, > so I know that it is bad. > > So let me boil this down to the questions that I have: > > 1) How do these color designations transfer to the actual parts? There > are 5 colors listed in the Clymer, and 6 lettered bearings in the > parts fiche (A-F)? Does anyone have the thickness specs of the A-F > bearings (maybe from the Honda shop manual)? > > 2) Is the old bearing small and warped because of excessive wear? What > caused this, and how can I prevent it from happening again? (BTW, the > crank journal is in very good shape) Should I be looking for a clogged > oil passage? > > 3) How can I establish what size bearing to use without taking the > case apart? I am having a hard time getting a caliper / micrometer in > the cylinder hole to get a good read, and my best improvised measuring > device is no match for the .0001 precision needed here. > > 4) Are OEM bearings sold in pairs/matching sets, or do you have to buy > 2 for each con-rod? I was thinking about maybe trying all 3 sizes > rated for a #2 con-rod, and using the one that worked the best. This > would not be fun if I have to buy 2 of each size @ $9 each. > > 5) OR......should I just split the cases and stop belly-aching? > > Thanks for the advice! > > ZMAN --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
