Ah... so the term is "piggy-backed." Interesting. So you recommend the black bearing size. Any particular reason? Any advice for matching "black" with a letter designation (a-f) on the parts list?
Thanks for the help! LZ On Feb 23, 10:16 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > Why not split the cases ? You've come so far anyway. The trick is to use > plasti-gauge to check your work. #Hint use the black bearings. Yes there is a > chart, use the black bearings. Make sure the crank pin is ROUND... use the > black bearings. The term is "piggy-backed" to describe that condition. Mike > the pin and rod to insure both are ROUND and not misshapen. You should do > this job only once. Short-cuts will have you doing it twice. > > --- On Mon, 2/23/09, ZMAN <[email protected]> wrote: > From: ZMAN <[email protected]> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Crank bearings > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> > Date: Monday, February 23, 2009, 9:48 PM > > I need some help with my crank bearings. I am doing a rebuild of a > salvage motor. Let me preface my question with this: "I know that I > SHOULD take this motor apart and check everything properly, but I am > trying to limit my labor time on this." > > OK I have the oil pan, cylinder head, cylinder, and pistons all > pulled. So I am looking at the crankcase with the con-rods moving > freely. Well, almost. The #3 is a bit to sticky for my liking. So I > take the rod off (you can get to it through the oil pan opening). I > put the bearing halves back in the opening of the con-rod and I see > that the bearing has been warped, because is is out of round with the > opening of the con-rod. So I want to replace the bearing, of course. > The con-rod is marked with a 2 and D. The old bearing thickness is > 0.056" and is marked AK16B. I am looking at my Clymer manual and it > states that I have to cross reference these markings with markings on > the end of the crankshaft. The result should be one of 5 bearing > sizes, and 3 of these sizes will work for a #2 rod and they are > called: green, brown, or black. "This is great," I said. "I will > just > measure the old one and order a new one." The measurement of my old > bearing is quite a bit less than the thicknesses listed in the book, > so I know that it is bad. > > So let me boil this down to the questions that I have: > > 1) How do these color designations transfer to the actual parts? There > are 5 colors listed in the Clymer, and 6 lettered bearings in the > parts fiche (A-F)? Does anyone have the thickness specs of the A-F > bearings (maybe from the Honda shop manual)? > > 2) Is the old bearing small and warped because of excessive wear? What > caused this, and how can I prevent it from happening again? (BTW, the > crank journal is in very good shape) Should I be looking for a clogged > oil passage? > > 3) How can I establish what size bearing to use without taking the > case apart? I am having a hard time getting a caliper / micrometer in > the cylinder hole to get a good read, and my best improvised measuring > device is no match for the .0001 precision needed here. > > 4) Are OEM bearings sold in pairs/matching sets, or do you have to buy > 2 for each con-rod? I was thinking about maybe trying all 3 sizes > rated for a #2 con-rod, and using the one that worked the best. This > would not be fun if I have to buy 2 of each size @ $9 each. > > 5) OR......should I just split the cases and stop belly-aching? > > Thanks for the advice! > > ZMAN --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
