Ethanol needs no additional oxidisers; ethanol is frequently added to
gasoline as an oxygenating element, in addition to a AKI improving
agent.

It does, however, have less heat content per unit volume (which is how
fuel systems meter fuel, by volume). Higher compression (110 octane
for pure ethanol) can make up for this, as the increased power and
efficiency from the higher compression largely makes up for the lower
energy content. The lower energy content per unit volume and "richer"
air fuel requirement (app. 9:1 AFR versus 14.7:1 for gasoline and 18:1
for diesel) do mean that more fuel must be metered out for a given
volume of air.

Ethanol is harder to light off because it has a much, /much/ higher
latent heat of evaporation than gasoline: almost 400 BTU/lb versus 150
BTU/lb for RUG.

Ethanol is a superior fuel, in my opinion, because of the much higher
compressions you can run and the much greater fuel cooling effect.
It's also a single-chemical compound, versus the upwards of 150
different chemical compounds in gasoline, and does not leave deposits
or varnishes as it dries (which would rather end the problems of "carb
gunking" as long as you're using a good fuel filter). Running high
ethanol blends or soaking in ethanol can loosen and remove heavy gum
and varnish deposits on heavily used gasoline components.

-Kurt

On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 5:27 PM, Allen Thomas <[email protected]> wrote:
> Oh yea they also mix nitromethane in it to act as an oxydiser because
> it is not as combustible as gas hence the higher compression.
>
> On 8/27/10, Allen Thomas <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Ethanol has a lower heat coefficient (less efficient) and requires a
>> higher fuel to air ratio. Alcohol cars burn way more fuel, require
>> larger carb jets, and fuel lines to prevent starvation, even the fuel
>> filter needs an upgrade.
>>
>> On 8/27/10, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Cars can be set up for different octane ratings. You should always use
>>> what
>>> the manufacturer recommends. If the manufacturer recommends premium and
>>> you
>>> use regular, it'll work, but the engine will retard the timing and you'll
>>> get worse mileage to the point that you're not saving any money. On the
>>> other hand, if the manufacturer recommends a regular and you put in
>>> premium
>>> you may not be seeing any benefits.
>>> Ethanol does increase octane, but you don't get the same bang for the
>>> buck
>>> in a gasoline engine. Ethanol requires a much higher compression ratio to
>>> get the most out of it than gas. That's the problem with trying to have
>>> an
>>> engine that uses both.
>>>
>>> -Kyle
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 2:23 PM, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>  Javier,  I use low octane gas in all my bikes including my NH750 and
>>>> the
>>>> only difference I find is the price.  I think you just had some
>>>> temporary
>>>> interruption of gas flow.  I would add some seafoam and carry on,
>>>> Graham
>>>>
>>>> On Aug 27, 2010, at 1:17 PM, Javier Garcia wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Allen,
>>>> I did not use Seafoam yet. It just went away. The only thing that I did
>>>> at
>>>> the end of the day when I experienced the problem was to fill up the
>>>> tank
>>>> with fresh premium gas. That is why I am still thinking if going with a
>>>> lower octane gasoline by mistake could cause this behavior.  But, in
>>>> theory,
>>>> in this kind of engines using low octane gasoline should not matter,
>>>> right?
>>>>
>>>> Javier.
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 10:52 AM, Allen Thomas
>>>> <[email protected]>wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Glad it sorted out. Way to go seafoam!
>>>>>
>>>>> On 8/27/10, Javier Garcia <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> > Well, I took off yesterday after work and it was fine. The same this
>>>>> > morning. I don't see any signs of the problem anymore. I do think it
>>>>> > is
>>>>> a
>>>>> > good idea to the check the petcook, but I am still suspicious about
>>>>> > the
>>>>> gas
>>>>> > grade. Nobody has comment on whether this could be the source of the
>>>>> > problem.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > Javier.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 1:56 AM, mongoose22p <[email protected]>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>> >
>>>>> >> i think you had a stuck float my 750 82 did that a couple of months
>>>>> >> ago i tapped it with a screwdriver and it quit then it took a couple
>>>>> >> of rides to be right again good luck
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >> On Aug 26, 9:17 pm, surfswab <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> >> > In addition to the spark plug checks, check your dipstick to see
>>>>> >> > if
>>>>> >> > the fluid level is higher than the last time you checked -- a
>>>>> >> > warning
>>>>> >> > sign there may be gas in the oil.  A  sniff test of the dipstick
>>>>> >> > will
>>>>> >> > confirm.
>>>>> >> >
>>>>> >> > If so, don't run the bike until the problem has been corrected.
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >> --
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