No Prob.

I like Kyle's idea of using a heat gun/hair dryer to help with the boots. It'll 
be tough to get the airbox slid back forwards as well. I think someone posted a 
picture of using a ratchet strap around the air box to the front of the engine 
to pull it in.

On Jan 8, 2011, at 3:04 PM, Dustin Mcclure wrote:

> That is exactly what I was having a problem with. I could not get the
> carbs wedged into place because there was not enough space. Thanks for
> the advice.
> 
> On Jan 8, 2:52 pm, James O'Gorman <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Hmm...
>> 
>> I hook up the throttle cables before sliding the carbs in from the left side 
>> of the bike. Once down there, I finagle the choke cable into place.
>> 
>> Then roll the bank of carbs up and down while pushing the forward into the 
>> engine. Be sure the rings that tighten the carbs to the intake are loose. 
>> the rubber boots that go on the other side of the carbs (from the airbox) go 
>> in last. You can take the seat off and loosen the two bolts that hold the 
>> air box in place and slide it back about 1/2" to help. It is these boots 
>> that are a major PITA. I've gotten better at removing/replacing them, but it 
>> still takes about 15 minutes for each of the two boots on my 83 650.
>> 
>> Good luck!
>> 
>> On Jan 8, 2011, at 2:44 PM, Dustin Mcclure wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> So, this is the first time that I have ever removed the carburetors on
>>> a motorcycle. I have everything cleaned and now I am trying to get
>>> them back on. It took me about an hour and a half to remove the
>>> carburetors but it is taking me forever to get them back on. Any tips?
>> 
>>> On Jan 8, 7:26 am, Dustin Mcclure <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> I removed the pilot screws and I was able to access 1 of the passages
>>>> that is directly under the pilot screw inside of the chamber but there
>>>> are also four other holes of the exact same diameter that I could  not
>>>> reach(they are about an inch further inside of the carb chamber). I
>>>> was wondering how I could reach these to clean them out.
>> 
>>>> PO? If you are talking about the guy who sold me the bike I trust
>>>> him....he is my brother in-law. I don't think he was giving me any bs.
>>>> It is just the very tip of the pilot screw that is broken off and I
>>>> can still screw it in all the way if I put enough pressure on it with
>>>> my thumb.
>> 
>>>> On Jan 7, 4:29 pm, "Allen Thomas" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> 
>>>>> The passages are accessed by removing the pilot screws so it sounds like 
>>>>> you got them. However if the points of those screws are buggered up they 
>>>>> won't regulate fuel properly, sound like the PO is full of BS on that one.
>>>>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>> 
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Dustin Mcclure <[email protected]>
>> 
>>>>> Sender: [email protected]
>>>>> Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 07:55:53
>>>>> To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!<[email protected]>
>>>>> Reply-To: [email protected]
>>>>> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Just started cleaning my carbs
>> 
>>>>> Luckily I watched a few videos on carb cleaning before I started. I
>>>>> see that one of the big mistakes people make doing this first time is
>>>>> marring the jets do to overtightening. I have a shop manual that tells
>>>>> me the proper torque for every screw in the carb I just need to pick
>>>>> up a torque wrench before I stick my carbs back on.
>> 
>>>>> So far I have already cleaned all of the float chambers. I pulled out
>>>>> the main and slow jets and cleaned them with a guitar string of the
>>>>> appropriate width and cleaned the outside with a scotch pad. I made
>>>>> sure when I was shooting the carb cleaner through all of the
>>>>> passageways that I removed the diaphragms( I just didn't to remove
>>>>> these at first because I have  heard that if they swell they may
>>>>> become unusable). I removed all 4 pilot screws and cleaned them and
>>>>> their passageways. I could not however find the passageway that leads
>>>>> to the idle circuit passages. Could you tell me where this is?
>> 
>>>>> From what I have seen so far the carburetor is in pretty good shape.
>>>>> The inside looked pretty clean and the carb cleaner that I had shot
>>>>> through all of the passages with ease. The only problem that I saw was
>>>>> that one of the idle screws was broken off at the top but the guy who
>>>>> owned the bike before me said that two of the idle screws had been
>>>>> like that before and he replaced one(the bike ran fine then).
>> 
>>>>> Thanks for your time. I plan on putting the carbs back on tonight to
>>>>> see what happens. Dustin.
>> 
>>>>> On Jan 6, 10:33 pm, Allen Thomas <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>> Don't get the carb cleaner on the rubber parts,it pulls the oils from the
>>>>>> rubber and makes them brittle, example: the diaphragms you didn't 
>>>>>> remove..
>>>>>> My experience was that the idle circuit passages are usually what gets
>>>>>> clogged, if you look at the engine side of the carburator barrels you 
>>>>>> will
>>>>>> see some small holes (open the butterflies) these are the ones. Though if
>>>>>> you have the carbs off the bike anyway you should probably take the time 
>>>>>> to
>>>>>> remove the float bowls and clean the main and slow jets too. The best 
>>>>>> way to
>>>>>> clean these passages is to remove the pilot jet screws (turn in to
>>>>>> LIGHTLY SEATED first recording the # turns), and the choke plungers, then
>>>>>> alternate shooting carb cleaner with compressed air, until you are 
>>>>>> satisfied
>>>>>> that air/fluid shoots out of all of them equally well. Make sure you wear
>>>>>> eye protection as the liquid can get you in the face real easy. If you 
>>>>>> can't
>>>>>> get fluid to squirt out of these holes then you will need to soak the 
>>>>>> carbs
>>>>>> which will require a full tear down, and that is a bit of work. also if 
>>>>>> you
>>>>>> remove them from the bar you will have to completely re-sync them. I
>>>>>> have read that cooking them in a crock pot full of pinesol or lemon 
>>>>>> juice on
>>>>>> low, does wonders and won't destroy the rubber/plastic parts, but I have
>>>>>> never tried it.
>> 
>>>>>> Oh yea, empty the tank of the old crud gas, clean the petcock (look for 
>>>>>> rust
>>>>>> particles as you may have to clean/seal you're tank), replace any inline
>>>>>> filters, get a can of seafoam and run that through you're first tank of
>>>>>> fresh fuel, and put in some seafoam/stabil if you are not going to run 
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> bike for more than two weeks.
>> 
>>>>>> Thats my recommendations anyway, Welcome to the group, and post some
>>>>>> pictures!
>>>>>> On Thu, Jan 6, 2011 at 5:51 PM, Dustin Mcclure
>>>>>> <[email protected]>wrote:
>> 
>>>>>>>     I just purchased a 1984 Nighthawk 700S from my brother in-law. I
>>>>>>> was aware when I started looking at the bike that it was not running
>>>>>>> so I had a friend of my parents, who just happens to be a Honda
>>>>>>> motorcycle mechanic, come and look at the bike. He told me it just
>>>>>>> sounded like the carbs need to be cleaned. So, last night I removed
>>>>>>> and disassembled the carbs(except for the diaphragms) and I just
>>>>>>> picked up some carb cleaner today along with a bottle of sea foam.
>> 
>>>>>>>     I am not really too  much of a mechanic  but I understand the
>>>>>>> general function of the carburetors. I was just wondering if anyone
>>>>>>> would be able to tell me of any specific passageways that get clogged
>>>>>>> easier than others on these carbs. Is there anything I should pay
>>>>>>> close attention to? The reason I am asking is because the carburetors
>>>>>>> are really not all that dirty.
>> 
>>>>>>>     A little more information on the bike. When my brother in-law
>>>>>>> bought it the bike ran perfectly(that was within the last year and a
>>>>>>> half). It seems like it just slowly went down hill until it wouldn't
>>>>>>> start. I have already disassembled the petcock on the bike and cleaned
>>>>>>> it too. The bike turns over fine it just won't fire up. Any
>>>>>>> information would be very helpful.
>> 
>>>>>>> Thanks.
>> 
>>>>>>> Dustin.
>> 
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