I was able to run mine with the carbs open to the air. I do agree that they should be all set up with the entire air intake system for the sync and tune. When I fogged the engine I ran it without the Y-boots.
Dustin, I hope you have better luck than me- I burned out two sets of brushes on the starter before I got it to run properly. - James O'Gorman P.s. My problem was A: dirty carbs - I stripped all four down and soaked them each overnight in a bucket of carb cleaner. And B: the idle screws were too far in. I had good luck starting at 3.5 turns out. On Jan 8, 2011, at 6:31 PM, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote: > Another thing to check for is that the floats haven't developed any > leaks. However, after just reinstalling the carbs the bike should at > least try to fire before the bowls flooded. Check for spark, make sure > kill switch on the handlebars is still working properly and not > shorting out. Also, these bikes are picky about their air/fuel > mixture, you have to reinstall the Y-boots, airbox, filter, and > snorkel for it to run correctly. If you're just installing the carbs > and pushing the start button it may not work. > > On Saturday, January 8, 2011, Dustin Mcclure <[email protected]> > wrote: >> It turns over and you can tell it is trying to do something but it >> doesn't pop or anything. It is just a smooth turn over...it doesn't >> sound like the engine is trying to engage at all. >> >> A friend of mine listened to the bike and he said it sounded like the >> float needles inside of the carb were getting stuck. This also fits >> with what was happening before I bought the bike from my brother in >> law. He said that after he tried for a long period of time to get it >> to start the filter would have gas on it. This happens when the floats >> get stuck and the bowls overflow. My brother in law bought some carb >> cleaner from the local kawasaki dealership and my mechanic friend >> thinks that the cleaner that they sold him made the neoprene on the >> end of the float needles swell up. >> >> The bike is 27 years old though and it could probably use a carb >> rebuild. Do you know where I could get rebuild kits? I have a 1984 >> Nighthawk 700 S. >> >> Thanks. >> >> On Jan 8, 5:47 pm, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote: >>> Have you checked for spark? Is it trying to fire at all or just >>> cranking over with no response? >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Saturday, January 8, 2011, Dustin Mcclure <[email protected]> >>> wrote: >>>> I did get the carbs back on but the bike is still not starting. I >>>> fired some starter fluid into the carbs while trying to fire it up but >>>> nothing. Now I guess I will go ahead and rebuild them all :(. >>> >>>> On Jan 8, 5:25 pm, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote: >>>>> You have to remove the rear wheel if you want to completely remove the >>>>> airbox, but you can slide it back far enough to get out of the way without >>>>> pulling the wheel. I've become an expert at removing and reinstalling the >>>>> carbs. I'm slowly learning how to clean and tune the damn things. If I was >>>>> any good at the latter I wouldn't be as good at the former :P >>> >>>>> -Kyle >>> >>>>> On Sat, Jan 8, 2011 at 5:19 PM, CharlesW <[email protected]> wrote: >>>>>> This is something completely new to me. >>>>>> I copied the information from a shop manual to remove mine and it had >>>>>> me remove the rear wheel, the inner fender liner, the battery and >>>>>> battery box, voltage regulator and pull the air box toward the rear of >>>>>> the bike. >>>>>> I think it takes me close to 1.5 hours to remove all that crap and >>>>>> about the same to reassemble everything. I usually plan to spend a 1/2 >>>>>> day doing it. Luckily, I have only had to do it once. but.... >>>>>> I'll have to try Kyle's method. Can't take me any longer. >>>>>> The ratchet strap around the airbox also sounds like a good idea. >>> >>>>>> On Jan 8, 3:06 pm, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote: >>>>>>> It looks like more work, but it's MUCH easier to go ahead and pull the >>>>>>> battery, starter motor, airfilter, and voltage regulator so you can >>>>>>> slide >>>>>>> the airbox back and get more room. For the Y boots between the airbox >>>>>>> and >>>>>>> the carbs use a hairdryer or heatgun to soften them before you clamp >>>>>>> them >>>>>>> down. >>> >>>>>>> -Kyle >>> >>>>>> -- >>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >>>>>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. >>>>>> To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. >>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to >>>>>> [email protected]<nighthawk_lovers%2Bunsubscrib >>>>>> [email protected]> >>>>>> . >>>>>> For more options, visit this group at >>>>>> http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. >>> >>>> -- >>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >>>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. >>>> To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. >>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to >>>> [email protected]. >>>> For more options, visit this group >>>> athttp://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. >>> >>> -- >>> >>> -Kyle >> >> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. >> To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. >> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to >> [email protected]. >> For more options, visit this group at >> http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. >> >> > > -- > > -Kyle > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. 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