Have you checked for spark? Is it trying to fire at all or just
cranking over with no response?

On Saturday, January 8, 2011, Dustin Mcclure <[email protected]> wrote:
> I did get the carbs back on but the bike is still not starting. I
> fired some starter fluid into the carbs while trying to fire it up but
> nothing. Now I guess I will go ahead and rebuild them all :(.
>
> On Jan 8, 5:25 pm, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote:
>> You have to remove the rear wheel if you want to completely remove the
>> airbox, but you can slide it back far enough to get out of the way without
>> pulling the wheel. I've become an expert at removing and reinstalling the
>> carbs. I'm slowly learning how to clean and tune the damn things. If I was
>> any good at the latter I wouldn't be as good at the former :P
>>
>> -Kyle
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jan 8, 2011 at 5:19 PM, CharlesW <[email protected]> wrote:
>> > This is something completely new to me.
>> > I copied the information from a shop manual to remove mine and it had
>> > me remove the rear wheel, the inner fender liner, the battery and
>> > battery box, voltage regulator and pull the air box toward the rear of
>> > the bike.
>> > I think it takes me close to 1.5 hours to remove all that crap and
>> > about the same to reassemble everything. I usually plan to spend a 1/2
>> > day doing it. Luckily, I have only had to do it once. but....
>> > I'll have to try Kyle's method. Can't take me any longer.
>> > The ratchet strap around the airbox also sounds like a good idea.
>>
>> > On Jan 8, 3:06 pm, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote:
>> > > It looks like more work, but it's MUCH easier to go ahead and pull the
>> > > battery, starter motor, airfilter, and voltage regulator so you can slide
>> > > the airbox back and get more room. For the Y boots between the airbox and
>> > > the carbs use a hairdryer or heatgun to soften them before you clamp them
>> > > down.
>>
>> > > -Kyle
>>
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-- 

-Kyle

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