I did get the carbs back on but the bike is still not starting. I
fired some starter fluid into the carbs while trying to fire it up but
nothing. Now I guess I will go ahead and rebuild them all :(.

On Jan 8, 5:25 pm, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote:
> You have to remove the rear wheel if you want to completely remove the
> airbox, but you can slide it back far enough to get out of the way without
> pulling the wheel. I've become an expert at removing and reinstalling the
> carbs. I'm slowly learning how to clean and tune the damn things. If I was
> any good at the latter I wouldn't be as good at the former :P
>
> -Kyle
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jan 8, 2011 at 5:19 PM, CharlesW <[email protected]> wrote:
> > This is something completely new to me.
> > I copied the information from a shop manual to remove mine and it had
> > me remove the rear wheel, the inner fender liner, the battery and
> > battery box, voltage regulator and pull the air box toward the rear of
> > the bike.
> > I think it takes me close to 1.5 hours to remove all that crap and
> > about the same to reassemble everything. I usually plan to spend a 1/2
> > day doing it. Luckily, I have only had to do it once. but....
> > I'll have to try Kyle's method. Can't take me any longer.
> > The ratchet strap around the airbox also sounds like a good idea.
>
> > On Jan 8, 3:06 pm, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote:
> > > It looks like more work, but it's MUCH easier to go ahead and pull the
> > > battery, starter motor, airfilter, and voltage regulator so you can slide
> > > the airbox back and get more room. For the Y boots between the airbox and
> > > the carbs use a hairdryer or heatgun to soften them before you clamp them
> > > down.
>
> > > -Kyle
>
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