Check there is spark before doing anything else. No need to even
pull a plug, just pull the boot off an outside spark plug and plug a
5th spark plug into it, ground it on the engine and hit the starter
switch.
On Jan 8, 2011, at 7:31 PM, Kyle Munz wrote:
Another thing to check for is that the floats haven't developed any
leaks. However, after just reinstalling the carbs the bike should at
least try to fire before the bowls flooded. Check for spark, make sure
kill switch on the handlebars is still working properly and not
shorting out. Also, these bikes are picky about their air/fuel
mixture, you have to reinstall the Y-boots, airbox, filter, and
snorkel for it to run correctly. If you're just installing the carbs
and pushing the start button it may not work.
On Saturday, January 8, 2011, Dustin Mcclure
<[email protected]> wrote:
It turns over and you can tell it is trying to do something but it
doesn't pop or anything. It is just a smooth turn over...it doesn't
sound like the engine is trying to engage at all.
A friend of mine listened to the bike and he said it sounded like the
float needles inside of the carb were getting stuck. This also fits
with what was happening before I bought the bike from my brother in
law. He said that after he tried for a long period of time to get it
to start the filter would have gas on it. This happens when the
floats
get stuck and the bowls overflow. My brother in law bought some carb
cleaner from the local kawasaki dealership and my mechanic friend
thinks that the cleaner that they sold him made the neoprene on the
end of the float needles swell up.
The bike is 27 years old though and it could probably use a carb
rebuild. Do you know where I could get rebuild kits? I have a 1984
Nighthawk 700 S.
Thanks.
On Jan 8, 5:47 pm, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote:
Have you checked for spark? Is it trying to fire at all or just
cranking over with no response?
On Saturday, January 8, 2011, Dustin Mcclure
<[email protected]> wrote:
I did get the carbs back on but the bike is still not starting. I
fired some starter fluid into the carbs while trying to fire it
up but
nothing. Now I guess I will go ahead and rebuild them all :(.
On Jan 8, 5:25 pm, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote:
You have to remove the rear wheel if you want to completely
remove the
airbox, but you can slide it back far enough to get out of the
way without
pulling the wheel. I've become an expert at removing and
reinstalling the
carbs. I'm slowly learning how to clean and tune the damn
things. If I was
any good at the latter I wouldn't be as good at the former :P
-Kyle
On Sat, Jan 8, 2011 at 5:19 PM, CharlesW
<[email protected]> wrote:
This is something completely new to me.
I copied the information from a shop manual to remove mine and
it had
me remove the rear wheel, the inner fender liner, the battery and
battery box, voltage regulator and pull the air box toward the
rear of
the bike.
I think it takes me close to 1.5 hours to remove all that crap
and
about the same to reassemble everything. I usually plan to
spend a 1/2
day doing it. Luckily, I have only had to do it once. but....
I'll have to try Kyle's method. Can't take me any longer.
The ratchet strap around the airbox also sounds like a good idea.
On Jan 8, 3:06 pm, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote:
It looks like more work, but it's MUCH easier to go ahead and
pull the
battery, starter motor, airfilter, and voltage regulator so
you can slide
the airbox back and get more room. For the Y boots between
the airbox and
the carbs use a hairdryer or heatgun to soften them before
you clamp them
down.
-Kyle
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