you are correct that higher volts will require less amps to do the same
work (watts is watts is watts), and i do like the retrofit option, you
could also fairly easily use that rear break to do
some regenerative functions as well. but not all bikes have the option of a
rear wheel hub design, you might be better off driving off the existing
chain. this way you could also incorporate it as a chain tensioner.

are you imagining using the bikes charging system? we all know that these
are weak links in the vintage hondas (another side note was a thought to
have a small 30amp automotive alt mounted on the swing arm with a sprocket
to bypass the rectifier, spring pull the tension on the alt and you have an
automatic chain tensioner)


On Thu, Feb 16, 2012 at 12:25 PM, Kurt Nolte <[email protected]>wrote:

> Sounds like a good idea for a Range Extended Battery Electric, which I
> feel is probably where the auto industry is going to head, for better or
> worse.
>
> I like the modular idea, especially the ability to add/subtract and
> hot-swap battery packs. One of my primary ideas would actually be to devise
> a "retrofit" package to hybridize most bikes with minimally invasive common
> parts.
>
> The core concept its the use of a "hub" or "internal stator" motor design,
> pressed into place of the rear drum brake. This allows for a direct drive
> DC design, high torque and the ability to run electric-only for a time.
>
> Rear braking would now be electric, using a variable resistor to determine
> braking load, tied to the stock brake pedal. The motor controller's speed
> sensor would allow for ABS functionality without additional parts, as a
> bonus, and the whole motor assembly shouldn't add more than a pound or two,
> tops.
>
> Using this, I'd also downsize the engine, generally by a 1/3 but obviously
> dependant on the individual bike. The motor torque added in the bottom end
> of the range would allow riders to feel like the engine its much bigger.
>
> I think that both motor and pack should operate at high voltage,
> preferably 36-72+V. This will allow for smaller, more flexible wires and
> also provide a beneficial bump in torque. The pack can still be be charged
> by a 12V alternator using the right connections and isolator circuits. High
> voltage packs are also better for the controllers, limiting max current
> flow.
>
> That's it from me for now, when I'm on a proper keyboard I'll add more.
>
> Kurt
>
> On Feb 16, 2012 10:42 AM, "paul annen" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > well, my idea was to use as many stock Honda parts as i could, so that i
> could market it to honda after. i also want to use a 24v system. this is to
> make the charging system easy. motor controller and basic battery set on
> the chassis with modular extra batteries in saddle bags and a "trunk" with
> the engine and mobile charger (also modular). my engine/mobile charger is
> about as simple as it gets, small engine (can offer diffrent engine sets
> for gas, diesel, LP.... ) set at a constant rpm coupled to a 24v automotive
> alt (yes they make them, mostly for bigger trucks).
> >
> > the modular thought is that if your daily commute is short enough you
> dont need the extra weight (and wear) from the engine and batteries, simply
> plug it in to charge, but longer commutes the extra batteries might be
> needed, for longer trips you will want to have the engine for "on the road"
> charging. yes, while cruising you will probably use more power then the alt
> can keep up with, but if you stop every so often (and leave the charging
> engine running) you can build charge back up.
> >
> > my first concept was using standard car batteries, (i was 12, cut me
> some slack) now i am thinking that li ion makes a much better choice, but
> thats also where the modular design comes in, as battery tech improves, you
> can upgrade without scrapping the whole bike.
> >
> > not that ive spent any time thinking about this at all.. comments
> and suggestions are welcome..
>
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