I was actually imagining it going the other way, not sure why I didn't make that clearer. I envision the motor pack also being the starting battery, as well as the reserve battery.
One or two 12V cells would be devoted as the "stock" battery, and with a little coding one could even let the pack controller use the 12V alternator to recondition cells as life goes on. Any retrofit package for this would likely include a rewound alternator, however. I realize not all bikes have a rear drum hub, but then not all bikes have a chain drive either so that wouldn't be universal either. My target market is still largely drum rears, and it would be easy to swap a drum rear wheel on those with only disc brakes back there; there are many options, factory and aftermarket. Kurt. On Feb 16, 2012 12:35 PM, "paul annen" <[email protected]> wrote: > you are correct that higher volts will require less amps to do the same > work (watts is watts is watts), and i do like the retrofit option, you > could also fairly easily use that rear break to do > some regenerative functions as well. but not all bikes have the option of a > rear wheel hub design, you might be better off driving off the existing > chain. this way you could also incorporate it as a chain tensioner. > > are you imagining using the bikes charging system? we all know that these > are weak links in the vintage hondas (another side note was a thought to > have a small 30amp automotive alt mounted on the swing arm with a sprocket > to bypass the rectifier, spring pull the tension on the alt and you have an > automatic chain tensioner) > > > On Thu, Feb 16, 2012 at 12:25 PM, Kurt Nolte <[email protected]>wrote: > >> Sounds like a good idea for a Range Extended Battery Electric, which I >> feel is probably where the auto industry is going to head, for better or >> worse. >> >> I like the modular idea, especially the ability to add/subtract and >> hot-swap battery packs. One of my primary ideas would actually be to devise >> a "retrofit" package to hybridize most bikes with minimally invasive common >> parts. >> >> The core concept its the use of a "hub" or "internal stator" motor >> design, pressed into place of the rear drum brake. This allows for a direct >> drive DC design, high torque and the ability to run electric-only for a >> time. >> >> Rear braking would now be electric, using a variable resistor to >> determine braking load, tied to the stock brake pedal. The motor >> controller's speed sensor would allow for ABS functionality without >> additional parts, as a bonus, and the whole motor assembly shouldn't add >> more than a pound or two, tops. >> >> Using this, I'd also downsize the engine, generally by a 1/3 but >> obviously dependant on the individual bike. The motor torque added in the >> bottom end of the range would allow riders to feel like the engine its much >> bigger. >> >> I think that both motor and pack should operate at high voltage, >> preferably 36-72+V. This will allow for smaller, more flexible wires and >> also provide a beneficial bump in torque. The pack can still be be charged >> by a 12V alternator using the right connections and isolator circuits. High >> voltage packs are also better for the controllers, limiting max current >> flow. >> >> That's it from me for now, when I'm on a proper keyboard I'll add more. >> >> Kurt >> >> On Feb 16, 2012 10:42 AM, "paul annen" <[email protected]> wrote: >> > >> > well, my idea was to use as many stock Honda parts as i could, so that >> i could market it to honda after. i also want to use a 24v system. this is >> to make the charging system easy. motor controller and basic battery set on >> the chassis with modular extra batteries in saddle bags and a "trunk" with >> the engine and mobile charger (also modular). my engine/mobile charger is >> about as simple as it gets, small engine (can offer diffrent engine sets >> for gas, diesel, LP.... ) set at a constant rpm coupled to a 24v automotive >> alt (yes they make them, mostly for bigger trucks). >> > >> > the modular thought is that if your daily commute is short enough you >> dont need the extra weight (and wear) from the engine and batteries, simply >> plug it in to charge, but longer commutes the extra batteries might be >> needed, for longer trips you will want to have the engine for "on the road" >> charging. yes, while cruising you will probably use more power then the alt >> can keep up with, but if you stop every so often (and leave the charging >> engine running) you can build charge back up. >> > >> > my first concept was using standard car batteries, (i was 12, cut me >> some slack) now i am thinking that li ion makes a much better choice, but >> thats also where the modular design comes in, as battery tech improves, you >> can upgrade without scrapping the whole bike. >> > >> > not that ive spent any time thinking about this at all.. comments >> and suggestions are welcome.. >> >> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. >> To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. >> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to >> [email protected]. >> For more options, visit this group at >> http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. >> > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. 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