Jeff, to get at your ignition switch is not that hard - You just need to get the headlight out of the way. Just unscrew the 12 mm bolts holding the headlight bucket (better remove the headlight first). Then just move it down a little out of the way, no need to remove wiring. Then loosen the turn signal ears and swing them outwards a little to give you access to the two bolts holding your ignition in place. Graham
On Jan 24, 2013, at 10:29 AM, jeff mercier wrote: > 'then i checked the battery by bridging the terminals in the relay, the bike > cranked over fine so the battery is good. [ps i put the bike on a boost > charger when i got home and affirmed the battery is good.]' > the battery in the bike now is a yausa the oem replacement > > tried bridging the applicable fuses with tin foil still nothing joey. > > i think the telling thing here is that supplying power directly to one coil > produced no spark at all. > it has to have something to do with a part of the system that shorts/gorunds > the coils and apparently the ignition switch on these 'newer' bikes does that. > > > From: Joey Kelley <[email protected]> > To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> > Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2013 9:59 AM > Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] trouble with my poor 650 nighthawk > > Jeff, > Pardon my ignorance as to your particular bike's electrical system - > but to have everything work fine for a ride into town then have the > electrical system magically stop working before the ride home - I have a > sneaking suspicion that the fault is something simple that may have been > overlooked. Here are a few thoughts: > I've seen batteries that had one bad cell, they would show > sufficient voltage, but when used would actually fail to work properly > Battery cables - particularly ground cables - are often dirty and > can use a good cleaning - on both ends. > If a ground cable has failed - the entire electrical system will > appear dead - since it is in effect, unhooked. Ditto for the 'hot' cable for > that matter. > I have personally found and replaced fuses that would work properly > when checked with a volt meter but had actually failed and would separate > under load. > I don't know if any of these apply to you, but I would suggest that > any of them could. > -Joey > > > > > > > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en-US. > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en-US.
