Thanks for the details on the buffing. I have the drill. I can buy a pad,
but do you know the particular type of pad and what exact compound(s) to
use? I really really do not want to ruin it, or make it worse. Time is not a
problem. The tank is full now, and wont even be available until end of
November. I wont be moving into the house for a year, so I have lots of
time. I am just starting to get a plan of attack in line so I am prepared
when the tank comes available.
TIA,
Shane
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Earl [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 8:26 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Used tank...
just thought that I'd put in my two cents....
the price is good or at least I'd say that he won't be
screwing
you.....as far as the price for a new canopy and to buff out the
tank that's
another story. I work for an aquarium co. and I don't know about
retail
prices but you should be able to get a conopy for around $200 not
300....and
the price to buff the tank is way to much. As you probably know
most all
of the scratches will disappear when you fill it with water. they
are
relatively easy to fix...well actually there really easy to fix just
time
consuming and you'll need some patience to make it look better and
not
worse. if the scratches are bad enough to need some sanding work
make sure
to keep the sander or sanding block flat not matter what!!!!! if it
just
needs buffing just hook a buffing wheel up to a drill and use lots
of
compound and make sure to not buff in one spot for to long.. more
or less
that's how the "professionals" do it. lol
good luck
ron e.
Ps
Just today I made a "topless" canopy which I thought was a really
good idea
for anyone that wanted to cover up the water line etc. and still
suspend MH
lights or just keep the temp. of the tank down. this was also save
on the
wallet
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shane Clays" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 8:01 PM
Subject: RE: Used tank...
> Thanks. Sounds like a deal then huh? The shelf thing sounds like a
good
> idea. My concern is making it look as nice as possible, or the
wifee wont
go
> for it. My question on the shelf idea is does that then suspend
totally
> above the top of the tank? If that is so, that means I will have a
water
> line going across the top of the tank. I do like the idea of
having the
> lights above the tank for heat issues though. It does have a
canopy on it
> right now. It is heavy (the stand and canopy are made of oak) and
it is
> short (that's why I wouldn't be able to use it, couldn't fit MHs
on it,
even
> now the VHOS he has on, it gets a ton of salt creep from water
splash) so
I
> don't know if I could utilize it or not. Do you by any chance have
a pic
of
> the shelf system so I can have a visual? Not that I question the
looks,
but
> would like to see how it is built.
>
> My thoughts on the whole pump thing is... I already have an Iwaki
100 RLT.
I
> would probably use that to run my skimmer a couple of returns in
the 70
> gallon and then a few returns in the 170. Then, I would use my mag
2400
and
> drill 3 surge returns on the bottom of the tank as well as 2 in
the lower
> back of the tank and 2 in the upper back, the split all of them
with some
> locline. The Iwaki would push a fair amount of water through the
170 while
> proving a soft linear current in the 70, then the mag would really
create
a
> nice surge effect if allowed to run full blast. I would run that
on a
random
> current with my Aquatroller. I would run my chiller with an
additional mag
> 1200, which would return directly to the sump. Hopefully, with
that much
> water, the chiller will not have to be used, because the chiller
will have
a
> tough time cooling that much water.
>
> Next concern is lights. There are 4 vhos spanning the length of
the tank.
I
> have 2 175 watt MHs I would transfer over. I would leave the 4
vhos on the
> 70 for the anemone. I think I will probably need to add another
250 watt
mh.
> Maybe go with the 175 watters on the ends, the 250 in the middle
and then
> the VHOs. That would give me 6 watts per gallon on the 170. Not a
ton, but
I
> think enough.
>
> So, buffing it out is not to tough huh? Great. That makes me fell
better.
> Any tips???
>
> Thanks again!
> Shane C.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 4:40 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Used tank...
>
> Hi, Shane. Hoping to encourage you to do the deal. 170 gallons is
a
> lot of
> tank, especially connected to your 70 gallon. Seems like a very
> interesting
> set-up. If the 170 is rectangular, you can simply build a shelf
over
> it and
> mount the lights on the underside of the shelf. You can place
light
> things
> for storage on top and put a nice looking trim around it for a
more
> professional look. You can do this by buying premachined boards at
> Home Depot
> and mounting them on some inexpensive shelf brackets. The whole
> project can
> be done really well for under $100. You would need a good return
> pump and for
> a system that size an Iwaki WMD40XRLT would work very well. These
> are
> available online for around $160 plus shipping and will literally
> run
> forever. You can, of course, hard plum the entire system easily
with
> sched.
> 40 PVC. I have about 500 gallons of systems on the second floor of
> our house.
> The weight is not a problem as long as we don't add waterbeds! You
> should try
> to put your tanks perpendicular to floor joists. Electrical supply
> is more of
> a concern. You can very easily polish out the majority of defects
in
> the
> plexi by yourself for much less than $200. Go for it! HTH.
> ________________________________________
>
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