Throw that piece in the recycle bin and then do one of these or the other Go here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#red-metals/=bc9mgw
Or go here: http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=1296&step=2&top_cat=0 Talking to some one about "brass" is like walking into a nice resturant, sitting down and when the waiter comes to your table and asks for your order you tell him, "I'll have liquids and food". When he asks for you to be a little more specific you say, "Of course, make the liquid cold and the food hot please" I have at least 7 different alloys of......."Brass" in my shop. They are all different and used for different purposes. They all look the same just lying on the bench top The stuff in the scrap metal yards is the same to me as the stuff in the dumpster behind McDonalds, or White Castle for those on the other side of the Great Divide. It might be pretty to look at when it is all polished up but using it to machine parts is a crap shoot. You might win and you might not. Guys who cast. like me and I think Fred at SSL&S, Dennis at K&D Castings or Dave at Valley Brass & Bronze, even mr "O" at Micro Cast in Inchon Korea don't use "Brass" to make all those little locomotive parts. It is a special low fuming bronze alloy. It isn't some unknown left over scrap that can no longer be identified. it also is not cheap, I mean inexpensive. It was as high as 12 to 14 dollars a pound Ed Lou-waaz-oh fixed his Alco RS's the right way. Maybe I should say what I think is the best way. J. Rustermier --- In [email protected], Bill Rigsby <silvergost1@...> wrote: > > Bert, > How do you tell if a piece of brass is tool grade? Have a piece of 2.5 to > 3" round stock, about 3" long that has been in a lathe, but don't know if it > is tool grade. > Bill > > --- On Mon, 3/7/11, Bert Cutler <bertcutler@...> wrote: > > > From: Bert Cutler <bertcutler@...> > Subject: RE: {S-Scale List} I need a little help! > To: "Jeff Smith" <[email protected]> > Date: Monday, March 7, 2011, 8:12 AM > > > > Bob, I had the same problem about 5 yrs ago and I tried a lot of thing and > all failed. So I finally machined new gear boxes out of brass tool grade, > hard and after about 3 trys I got them right. Do not try to get measurements > from the old castings as they are all ready distorted. try to find a good one > and get your measurements from. Good luck. Bert > > To: [email protected] > From: bob@... > Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 09:57:27 -0600 > Subject: {S-Scale List} I need a little help! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Dear Friends, I write this with heavy heart! I've been fighting this > > fight for about a year but things keep getting worse! I ask you to > > check your junk boxes for the items I need--and you thought I was going > > to ask for donations didn't you! > > > > I've been trying to get one of my favorite engines (Alco models RS-5) > > back to running good. I had a sound decoder malfunction. I replaced > > that and things seemed good, but when I started pulling a train I > > discovered that one truck's drive wheels would stop rotating on a grade > > or with a moderate weight train. After taking it apart again and again, > > I determined that the universals, shafts and the worm all were doing > > their thing. I found a fair amount of play in one of the 4 zamac (yes > > that again) castings. When I tried to tighten it the screws broke out > > and the surrounding area broke loose. This play was apparently letting > > gears loose their mesh. > > > > Each truck has four castings--two are a sandwich affair that hold the > > drivers and the two upper pieces are a bit more like a clam shell with > > two halves--one of those halves is the problem. > > > > I have thought about three solutions: #1 is to find someone to make a > > new upper replacement piece possibly from solid brass stock. #2 > > re-drill deeper holes in the existing casting and then try and replace > > the broken 'crumbs' with some JB Weld--somewhat like a dentist would do > > with a cavity. Or #3 find somebody who has one of these drives that is > > too far gone, but where this piece might still be okay. > > > > Since #3 is the easiest, so I'm starting with this group first. Anybody > > have one they can spare? Please help me get this little fellow back in > > good health so it can run and play with all the other engines in the > > neighborhood--operators are standing by! > > > > Bob Werre > > BobWphoto.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: [email protected] [email protected] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [email protected] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
