I think this almost launched experience is fairly common for first time fixed
gear riders. But most people I've seen try it, get the hang of it pretty quick.
I do think riding fixed makes the bike feel more like an extension of your
body, or an appendage. Sort of transformative like changing fro
Good luck with that. As all true retro grouchy sticks in the mud know,
multiple gears and even freewheels are superfluous.
But seriously, congrats and I hope your wife loves her Hillborne. Mine
loves hers.
On Saturday, January 9, 2016 at 8:21:31 AM UTC-8, Kevin Lindsey wrote:
>
> After much del
>From looking at that photo, I think you might find a 60cm frame a bit small
if you want drop bars that high.
Though the Rambouillet is a bit lighter / sportier than the AHH I suspect
that just changing frames won't make your 33+ pound rig seem much less
bulky. I doubt the frame weights differ b
Do you use Paul Racer M brakes or the longer reach Racers?
I thought the Rambouillets were built for 47-57 ish brakes (e.g. Tektro
539, Racer M), not the 55-73 ish variety (e.g. Tektro 559, Racer).
On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 12:05:57 PM UTC-8, bo richardson wrote:
>
> i love my paul racer brak
Just put it in your basket and apply the code, if it works it does.
On Thursday, December 31, 2015 at 8:59:11 AM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Are we sure it includes bikes? 25% off makes that Clem awful tempting.
>
> Joe "digging for cash in the couch" Bernard
> Vallejo, CA.
>
> On Thursday, Dece
Wow Michael, that sounds really aggravating.
The Ram being an older, smaller clearance model you have Racer M center
pulls not the long reach Racer ones right?
If the VO rack interferes with adjusting the brakes when the rack is flat,
seems like you have to sacrifice one or the other.
A Flea Bay
iamkieth,
It looks like you might have room to bend the tang of your sliding bridge
over into the tangent orientation and then use a hex head bolt to attach it
to the bottom side of the bridge. I think I would try something along those
lines before messing with cutting/filing wedge shaped space
ridge placement and spacers (unless
of course the bridge blocks where the fender needs to go to get the line I
want).
On Wednesday, December 30, 2015 at 8:32:58 AM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
> On 12/30/2015 11:18 AM, ted wrote:
> > Actually, though it can be a bit tedious, it
failure to take any
segment of the market by storm is because it in fact doesn't seem more
natural than the current convention to any sizable group of people.
On Tuesday, December 29, 2015 at 10:48:00 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> That's how it works in my head, too, Ted. I grew u
, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
> On 12/30/2015 12:34 AM, ted wrote:
> > I wonder what the fender material has to do with it since I never
> > "just grab hold of it, yank in the direction you want and clamp it
> down".
> > I use a spacer to support the
Odd, I have always thought the now standard arrangement was perfectly
logical.
You pull on the cable to move to a bigger cog/rig with either derailer, aka
you always pull on the lever to force the chain uphill.
If you grasp how gears work, then what going to a bigger or smaller
cog/ring is going
to adjust fit really beyond your comprehension, or
are you being willfully obtuse?
On Tuesday, December 29, 2015 at 7:10:11 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
> On 12/29/2015 08:18 PM, ted wrote:
>
> Easy and hard are subjective assessments made by the person doing the
> wo
Michael,
Since you say "returning to hammered Al" I presume you had that before
going to plastic.
What prompted you to change to plastic, and were the plastic ones SKS
longboards?
On Tuesday, December 29, 2015 at 4:11:56 PM UTC-8, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> Sometimes I have resisted parts becau
at sort of a time difference.
On Tuesday, December 29, 2015 at 11:58:08 AM UTC-8, dstein wrote:
>
> Ted - My ambivalence starts when a lot of money and time get invested into
> it. I realize its a long shot to get an exact trade (or close to it,
> ideally for just a frame and fork tra
Easy and hard are subjective assessments made by the person doing the work,
but ...
I don't think it is accurate to say that "Rivendells are typically not
really very well set up for fendering." They take fenders just fine. They
all have room for fenders, they all have fender eyelets so you don'
d see what is there. This isn't an urgent thing
> and I'm happy riding the hunq and keeping it a long time. But I am very AHH
> curious ;)
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 29, 2015, at 11:58 AM, ted >
> wrote:
>
> dstein,
>
> If you think the Hunqap
t; Hunq to the Hilsen, he will be going from 26" to 650b. That is a change I
> can usually feel and on the road I think the 650b feels faster.
>
> On Tuesday, December 29, 2015 at 11:58:17 AM UTC-6, ted wrote:
>>
>> dstein,
>>
>> If you think the Hunqapillar and
Dave,
John is right. Drop everything and go look at (and test ride) that bike
immediately. It should help clarify your options more than any amount of
internet advice. You may go meh, you may catch a case of lust, but either
way I bet it helps settle what you want (including what size is best f
At my local ACE hardware/lumber yard they have a nice selection of
stainless metric hardware. They also have nylon and aluminum spacers in
various lengths.With luck somebody near you does too.
I like the "button head" fasteners for mounting fenders. They seem to
protrude less than the others. S
What would he be giving up that wouldn't be worth it? Sounds like you are
very familiar with both models, have you owned both?
As to "Ebay for some 531 bike or going with a Boulder or Lyon might be more
what you are after" it might, or it might not be. Really it depends on what
dstein likes. Me
dstein,
If you think the Hunqapillar and the Sam Hillborne ride the same you will
likely think the Sam and the Hilsen ride the same too.
As you pointed out Grant has said the Sam and Hilsen are functionally
interchangeable, though there are differences between them.
I haven't ridden a Hunqapill
Good luck tracking down a used AHH, I think you would really enjoy one.
Sort of OT but I am curious what has replaced your Hunqapillar as your main
off road ride and what motivated the change. Could you elaborate?
On Sunday, December 27, 2015 at 12:26:59 PM UTC-8, dstein wrote:
>
> I have a year
Phil,
Interesting indeed. My wife's Sam is a 52, I take it yours was from after
the size change? Perhaps some minor changes were made that increased the
clearance. If the clearance has changed, the vintage of the Sam that Zach
is thinking of may be significant.
Regards
Ted
On Thu
7;t remember the tire clearance the Sam frame had. But both the Sam
> and Cheviot tire clearance is limited by the brakes.
>
> On Thursday, December 24, 2015 at 12:35:33 PM UTC-5, ted wrote:
>>
>> The charts may be a bit suspect as clearance for some models has changed
&
The charts may be a bit suspect as clearance for some models has changed
over time, but according to the RBW geometry charts the Cheviot's max tire
is 5mm larger than the Sam's. Though the brakes may be the same the
tightest spot for tire clearance is often the chainstays and I think the
Chevio
I have not tried it but I rather doubt it.
Geometry chart says 41 max, same as AHH. I have Soma GRs (41 or 42) on mine at
the moment and I think another 3 or 4 mm on each side would leave too little
clearance and might rub.
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> Chicago
>
> On Wednesday, December 23, 2015 at 12:48:04 PM UTC-6, ted wrote:
>>
>> I don't know, but I suspect it's just that size. Since the 700c versions
>> start at 57 the 650b 58 creates an overlap and puts 4 sizes on 1cm
>> intervals (56,57,58,59)
I don't know, but I suspect it's just that size. Since the 700c versions
start at 57 the 650b 58 creates an overlap and puts 4 sizes on 1cm
intervals (56,57,58,59). With the proliferation of good wide 700c tires I
expect they feel folks looking at the 58 would be fine with either a 57 or
a 59.
Nylon tubes/spacers from the loose hardware section of my local ace hardware
store. They come in a variety of diameters and lengths like bolts do. Use a
nylock nut on the bolt and it won't wiggle loose.
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If brazing on posts I gues you can put them as low as you want, so
Might look a bit odd though. Anyway I was just thinking of what the design
reach for bolt on brakes is for those models
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On an AHH I think that would need to be racer, racerm would be for a rodeo no?
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Bill,
Thanks for straightening me out.
Would it be fair to say that standard practice is minimum clearance of 8 to 10
mm, though some folks go with much less than that?
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Michael,
Are you saying the 20 mm Jan referred to is the difference between tire and
fender measured width, and not the space between tire and fender?
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en they talk about their fender clearance.
>
> Some people like about 10mm from tire to fender. Some consider it good
> enough if their tire isn't rubbing.
>
> On Sunday, December 13, 2015 at 3:14:03 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
>>
>> Jan Heine has written that they &q
Chad,
How much space do you have between the tire and the fender?
Thanks
Ted
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Jan Heine has written that they "... recommend 20 mm between tire and
fender for safety."
In the Roadeo write up RBW says you can put fenders over a 33.33mm tire and
without fenders can fit a 35mm tire.
That's only a 1.6 mm diff in size. I see lots of photos showing tire
clearance that look like
Back of the seat tube just below the bottom if the slot, where the person on
your wheel can read it.
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#x27;ve run 2.3 NeoMotos under fenders; if I
> pulled the fenders off, I have no idea what tire is out there that would be
> too big... I think there isn't a 650b tire that it couldn't fit
>
> On Wednesday, December 9, 2015 at 12:51:34 PM UTC-5, Chad wrote:
>>
>
David,
Thanks for that. Do you know if the SKS/GB collaboration ended because they
didn't work well or because they didn't sell well?
thnks
Ted
On Wednesday, December 9, 2015 at 11:18:10 AM UTC-8, David Banzer wrote:
>
> The SKS/GB fender collaboration was SKS plastic fende
you could drill it there and use the standard
> Berthoud stays
>
> On Wednesday, December 9, 2015 at 11:34:54 AM UTC-6, ted wrote:
>>
>> I recall seing plastic Gilles Berthoud fenders on Peter White's site some
>> years back. The fender material was like SKS fenders a
5 at 10:34:55 AM UTC-8, Shoji Takahashi wrote:
>
> Ted,
> Thanks for the clarification. The chain stay bridge and seat stay bridge
> are essentially fixed points on a bicycle; no need for another point to
> hold the fender.
>
> From seat stay bridge to the rear of the fender i
reason to change, but if you really want big tires you probably want a
Hunqapillar.
On Wednesday, December 9, 2015 at 9:51:34 AM UTC-8, Chad wrote:
>
> I would agree Ted.. I too am happy with my Bombadil. I am trying out the
> Bruce Gordon Rock n Roads and I think they might be a g
seems to be
very well supported. Given that such a long extent of fender (about 2x
longer than other segments) is fine in that place, I wonder if a single
solid stay 2/3 or 3/4 of the way from the brake bridge to the fender end
would be adequate.
thnks
Ted
On Wednesday, December 9, 2015 at 9
I recall seing plastic Gilles Berthoud fenders on Peter White's site some
years back. The fender material was like SKS fenders and the struts were
the same type used on the metal Berthoud fenders. Does anybody here know
about those? Specifically does anybody know how many struts were on each
fe
Last weekend I got my nerve up and took a drill and tap to the bottom of
the brake bridge on my AHH.
So now my bridge has a threaded hole in it for fender mounting.
Best I can tell the bottom of the square in the middle of the bridge is
about as thick as a thin nut. So I think there are enough th
35 psi and would rather
run larger tires that that, I suspect you would be happier with a different
frame. Perhaps a Hunqapillar.
regards
Ted
On Tuesday, December 8, 2015 at 9:18:37 AM UTC-8, Chad wrote:
>
> Garth- I too have an '83 Stumpjumper Sport frame and a box full of the
> mo
Chad,
I have a first generation 52 Bombadil, and currently have Quasi-Motos
mounted on Synergy rims on it.
I think they fit fine at the pressures I usually run in them (20-25psi). If
I recall correctly, when I first mounted them I seriously over inflated and
the resulting clearance was minimal
ties, both share the same,
identical functional qualities, and what one can do, the other can do
equally well, exactly."
But still if you really want to know, its probably best to just call RBW.
On Friday, November 27, 2015 at 2:31:13 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
>
> Though I cant find where
Though I cant find where, I recall reading that if your bike came from
Japan it was made with Japanese tubes that were every bit as good but less
well known than the ones in US built bikes. But your best bet is to call
them up and ask, I expect they would be happy to oblige a proud owner who
wa
the large ones.
And while I am at it, though there are 11 sp bar end shifters for the aero
TT crowd, there are no 11 sp down tube shifters.
sniff.
On Wednesday, November 25, 2015 at 9:35:57 AM UTC-8, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> Ted,
>
> I got pretty excited when I saw your post
>
> The
Ebay. The raids are quite long.
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Metin,
Thanks for taking the time to explain your reasoning / basis for that. I
appreciate it.
Also I hope it didn't seem like I was calling you out or anything, really I was
just curious.
Regards
Ted
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http://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/3218082349/the-t-question-long-post-dry-reading
I think it's wrong to presume the absence of a tubing sticker on the AHH means
the tubes are just average.
The above blog post names the types of the various tubes in an AHH. They don't
sound just average to me, thoug
Jim,
I think you might get the gears you want more easily by picking rings that
get you what you want with readily available cassettes.
Eg. sram 11sp 11-28 with 42/24 rings
4224
11 99.3 56.7
12 91.0 52.0
13 84.0 48.0
14 78.0 44.6
15 72.8 41.6
16 68.2 39.0
17 64.2 36.7
19
If I recall correctly, Grant has suggested that
1) the cost of tubes is such a small fraction of the total cost of a
frame that it doesn't make any sense to try and save money there.
2) there is a lot more to a bike than the particular tubes it is made out
of, and that getting all wrapped up
Metin,
I don't mean to be argumentative, just curious. Could you explain how you
know that using Marathons would cost you at least an hour in a 600K ride?
regards
Ted
On Friday, November 20, 2015 at 9:53:54 PM UTC-8, Metin Uz wrote:
>
> Here is why I don't use Marathons: In a
7:53:17 PM UTC-8, Surlyprof wrote:
>
> Ted,
>
> Did you make it up to Riv HQ to try the Joe? Anything to report?
>
>
>
> On Friday, November 13, 2015 at 9:21:39 AM UTC-8, ted wrote:
>>
>> Thinking of heading up there today myself. Given the blug and presale
>&
ou do live just ~30min
south don't you).
ted
On Friday, November 13, 2015 at 11:53:24 AM UTC-8, Surlyprof wrote:
>
> The thing that has always drawn me to the Bombadil is the 650b wheelset.
> For road riding, I love 700c but when riding in the dirt, I've found
> 700c/29 to
Thinking of heading up there today myself. Given the blug and presale
photos I assume they have at least one prototype JA there, though I don't
think the prototypes have the fork crown and long chainstays that the
production ones will have.
On Friday, November 13, 2015 at 8:09:39 AM UTC-8, Surl
regarding sloping top tubes,
Doesn't anybody else like to rest their backside against the top tube while
the group is chatting before or after a ride?
Before the carbon craze it seemed like this was a common thing, you set the
bike cross wise behind you, tip it a bit, and lean your but back again
John,
I think that Appaloosa would be a great Bombadil stand in to complement
your Hillborne as AHH stand in.
The Appaloosa may even fit fatter tires than the first generation Bombadil.
So Sam and Joe v.s. Homer and Bombadil could be all the function at a much
lower cost. Why just dream of the o
I have a 56 Homer I bought through this list. As others have said the AHH
is a really lovely bike. Whether or not its what you are looking for may
depend on what you mean when you say "springy" or "responsive flexible
tubing". If you are wanting the flex of a standard tube diameter thin wall
f
Liesl,
Heads up, I don't think mountain brake levers fit on mustache or albastache
bars.
Also, if you want a short tech delux stem I think Bens Cycle in Milwaukee
carries them down to 5cm. The short dirt drop is 8cm and the long one is
10, so a 5cm would get you 3-5cm (abt. 1 or 2 inch) depend
Will,
I also find the Rodeo tempting. However if you want 38mm and larger tires
with fenders it's not going to have large enough clearances for you. Even
an AHH may be too tight for you, I find ~40mm (Soma GR) with fenders to be
as far as I can go on mine.
When I want to ride something "racy"
I have one of the first run green ones. It was my commuting bike for many years
with lights, fenders, and a big honking saddlebag.
It's served duty on centuries,
club rides, fire roads, my errand bike and last winter was outfitted with
studded snow tires
After this winter she will go to the s
http://www.sfrandonneurs.org
Every thing you need to know, and plenty of lead time.
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I did this ride last year. You don't need a rusa # to register and I still
don't have one. I think you do need to register before the day of though. They
make a brevet card for each rider and those are printed before the event. I
don't think they are set up to print them at the event.
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You r
Sounds very vexing, sorry it happened to you. Could you explain in more
detail what the double-legger did to the kickstand plate on your
Hunqapillar?
On Friday, August 14, 2015 at 4:37:58 PM UTC-7, shawn m. wrote:
>
> I sure wish they'd posted that warning about the double-leggers not using
> t
Ted
On Friday, August 14, 2015 at 4:33:06 PM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> After a long summer of many guest and busyness I got out for a two hour
> ride this morning. It was humid and I went sans helmet (lets not have an
> argument). I rode for an hour into the wind before swi
Perhaps some frame matching paint could help?
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Regarding shifter alternatives, I suggest you consider trying these mounted
so the shifter is on the inside/underside of the bar
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/shsrtsr.htm
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/shsrtsl.htm
I think I have seen folks do sort of the same set up with the paul thumbies
The right center pull should do it. My AHH is 650 instead of 700 but I ran
SKS 45 longboards over Soma GR tires (~41mm). At first under Silver dual
pivot brakes, and later with a Mafac Raid front brake. With the silvers the
clearance for the front fender was less than I like. With the Raid (and
Not sure, but I suspect "Rivendellian" + "disk braked" => oxymoron
On Friday, May 8, 2015 at 11:02:13 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I'd love one for dirt riding if it could take 70 mm tires, and as long as
> it has only a single top tube!. Hell, I could accept, reluctantly, a second
> top t
It may have been discussed, but I've never seen a picture of a Bombadil
prototype with disc caliper tabs.
e.g.
http://chicogino.blogspot.com/2008/05/rivendell-bombadil-my-two-week-fling.html
On Friday, May 8, 2015 at 10:46:48 AM UTC-7, jpp wrote:
>
> I could be remembering wrong, but I feel like
Pleasanton Ridge Regional Park to be specific. That fire trail leads up to
the west ridge which was added to the park a while back, though I don't
think it's officially open to the public yet (hence the need for gate
jumping). If you go the right way and hop another gate you end up near the
nor
do, you may always wonder if
you shouldn't be riding fatter tires.
On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 9:11:20 PM UTC-7, DS wrote:
>
> Ted - Great advice, those are all points that were making me lean towards
> 38s originally. Plus I didn't think of the brake thing (they are caliper
DS,
I have used 32 mm GB Cypres and ~41 mm Soma GR tires on my 650B AHH.
I will disent from the likely majority opinion and suggest you go with the
38 mm tires.
I found the 32 mm tires to be excellent for all the roads around me, and I
also rode them on local trails and fire roads with no problem
I think my SimpleOne came with a 107 tange bottom bracket. I am using an
old suntour track crank and changed the bb to a 108 phil so I could easily
get the chain line just right. That's not an issue with normal 8/9 speed
chains, but I am using 1/8th inch chain cog and ring and I had some
crunch
Gotta agree with this. As I wrote earlier drilling it out is a when all
else fails last resort. Kai's suggestion to essentially jury rig a proper
puller is definitely worth a try.
On Sunday, March 29, 2015 at 8:46:21 PM UTC-7, Kainalu wrote:
>
> Consensus is definitely important, from the bottom
Krups moka brew. Works well, more compact than most self contained counter top
machines. Not cheep, but not super expensive either. If you use it every day
and amortize over years, the price per pot is probably quite reasonable.
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If all else fails,
remove the wheel pull brake or rack if needed for clear access to wedge from
crown end of steerer,
Flip bike with headset / top of steerer end supported on bench or blocks on
floor,
Run largest drill that won't mess up steerer through wedge, the bolt hole
providing a center g
On the back of the seat tube from the left side chain stay to just below the
seat stay. Handle at the top. Handy umbrella clip from bike touring news makes
this easy to set up and secure. Sorry no photo from me but i have seen pics of
bikes with a pump in that location on the blug before.
Also a
Thanks Ann.
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That's clearly more than 10 lbs. I would have thought the difference in those
two frames was under 3 lbs. Are the builds a lot different?
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Though I don't really disagree, I do think the case is overstated a bit
here.
I think my stout two top tube Bombadil with nitto mini rack, steel
bullmoose bar, lugged post, b17 saddle and kick stand is only about 5 lbs
heavier than my AHH (which has no rack, no kickstand, no extra stout
compon
If you are looking for light responsive road only tires, I think the
compass offerings are hard to beat. Since you have Schwalbes for commuting
I highly recommend the Compass tires for your "go-fastish" option.
Re size: I've had both 32 and ~40 tires on my AHH. Both were/are great.
However the 3
The rims were by Araya. I am not sure they are available in the United States
anymore. Fyi, not much wear on rims from breaking as the bike was set up with a
fixed gear.
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Grab em while you can indeed. It calls them SimpleOne forks, so I presume
these are left overs from the sudden demise of that model shortly after
they became available. So as a corollary, if you have a Quickbeam or
SimleOne and like it at all, hang on to it. They are not likely to be
available
noticeable wear, I decided
> that the millions of people riding on cantilever brakes (including me on my
> Burley tandem and Soma Grand Randonneur) are probably not making too big of
> a mistake, and I joined them.
>
> Nick
>
> On Saturday, March 7, 2015 at 11:04:48 PM UTC-5, ted w
png>
Regards
Ted Shwartz
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hose under powered and can't stand em, so as usual YMMV.
On Saturday, March 7, 2015 at 7:53:45 AM UTC-8, A. L Young wrote:
>
>
> On Fri, Mar 6, 2015 at 6:19 PM, ted >
> wrote:
>
>> It's a bit lost in the mists of time, but I think I bought the aero
>> leve
"yea, but that bike goes anywhere."
So about 8 of us are standing at the bottom of welch creek (sf east bay
area) after regrouping. All but one with MCFRBs, me with my AHH.
Somebody suggests going up welch creek before continuing out calaveras. I
say something like, yea go up and come down throu
I wouldn't argue against going with components made for each other. I think
you'r on solid ground there.
I also completely agree about wanting to know what you'r likely to get
before having pivots brazed on. That's one reason I was happy to find an
old pair of Raids with the stock arches. Much
day, March 6, 2015 at 4:40:40 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
>>
>> I was curious about trying out a mafac raid front brake on my AHH (650b)
>> and found a pair for a price I thought wasn't too much.
>> It's still early days yet, but I thought I would offer a few preliminary
&g
I was curious about trying out a mafac raid front brake on my AHH (650b)
and found a pair for a price I thought wasn't too much.
It's still early days yet, but I thought I would offer a few preliminary
observations.
First and last, these are big brakes.
I have seen the reach on these quoted as
less.
I have done this sort of thing a couple of times to Nitto mini racks to get
them sitting level. Im sort of fussy about that.
good luck
ted
On Sunday, March 1, 2015 at 6:29:44 AM UTC-8, Tom Harrop wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Just finished with a cockpit switch from drops to bosco
Oh if only we could trade you some BTUs for some H2O.
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Yes they work very well. I suspect the fine tuning is really only cosmetic.
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of laying right along
the bottle.
ted
On Thursday, February 26, 2015 at 5:46:53 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> The new Iris cages arrived, are installed, and holy smokes! are they
> secure and yet easy to access. Snug, rattle free, and interestingly the
> steel on steel in and ou
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