Re: Stus-List Martec Folding Prop
Just keep in mind you can only rebuild a Martec 2 times. So a Martec has 3 lives; original, rebuild 1; rebuild 2 then dumpster. Dennis C. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List small hole in front of LF38 rudder tube
Hey, don't leave a hole in your boat, man. Clean the hole out enough to get a good physical bond, rough it up a bit, and get some Marine-Tex and mix it up and stick it in a syringe and fill the thing. I've done that, under duress, and it has been rock solid for over eight years. Holes are holes, women are women, but soccer is football. Wal you wrote: I wish I could now just plug the hole and go sailing, but I have much more to do. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Cover for autohelm display unit
In 2001 I installed an Autohelm 6000 on my C&C 44. This spring the plastic cover disappeared and I am trying to find a replacement. Any help would be appreciated. Jim McDonald Breakaweigh 1 Sent from my iPad ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List small hole in front of LF38 rudder tube
Hi Wally, Thanks for your input. I actually looked over your site to see if Stella Blue had the stud. Originally I did not see any sign of one, but after reading your reply I came across (http://www.wbryant.com/weblogs/bV_1109/bv_205.JPG) which clearly shows the stud. I did not know about the early rudder design change, but you make a good point about the current rudder not needing the stud. Below is a link to an old photo of my 29-1 which shows the stud close to the rudder, but more importantly, it shows how the rudder is notched forward to fit into the hull whereas the rudder on the LF38 (the second link ), is notch-free. In the later photo, the rudder has been lowered a bit and usually sits up closer to the hull. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/99269361/CnC29-stud.tiff https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/99269361/LF38-studless.jpg I wish I could now just plug the hole and go sailing, but I have much more to do. I just completed replacing 9 thruhulls and seacocks(your way). I am rebuilding the Yanmar 3QM30, and I have pulled the fuel tank, prop, shaft, & cutlass bearing, and I have dropped the mast to replace the ever-common broken mast step. I have a huge list of to-dos, but I hope to have her back out sailing by September. - Paul Eugenio 1981 C&C Landfall 38 S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL On Jul 8, 2014, at 8:19 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: > Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2014 04:49:25 + > From: Wally Bryant > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List small hole in front of LF38 rudder tube > Message-ID: <53bb7855.5090...@wbryant.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > Paul - > > I have a 1.5 inch long metal stud sticking out of the bottom of my hull > about six inches in front of the rudder. Somewhere I have a picture, > but never put it on a web page. Every time I haul I wonder if I > shouldn't just cut it off, but figure what the heck it's not causing a > problem so leave it alone. > > Bottom line: Clean the hole out and fill it. It doesn't go through the > hull, obviously, or you wouldn't have time to ask the question. > The hull is very thick there (possibly 1.5" or more) and a good > vinylester or epoxy resin thickened up, with a little patch of cloth > over it will make it go away. > > Here's what I think: The LF38, with a shoal draft, was originally > designed with a different rudder. When I was looking at pictures of > them before buying mine, I noticed that some older boats had a shallow > rudder that extended forward of the post, so that the post was about > five inches behind the leading edge of the rudder. (Just behind the > little stud.) It had the same surface area as my rudder, but didn't > extend as deep. From a cruising perspective this makes total sense. > You don't want to be on the hook or pushing through shallow water with a > deep rudder, because in any kind of chop or swell the boat will rock > over the keel (I wanted to say hobby-horse, but I've been on boats that > hobby-horse) and you don't want to bang the rudder against the bottom. > > I think that the shallow rudder design didn't work. Perhaps the boat > didn't sail as well, or perhaps someone decided that there was no point > building a bunch of unique rudders, when there was a darn good rudder > for a darn good 38 sitting on the shelf. Personally, I appreciate the > big deep rudder on my boat, and I get a lot of lift from it when the > boat is trimmed well. It's about six inches shorter than the keel, and > I always keep that in mind when crossing a sand bar in wind or swell. > > I think that the little stud was there to keep things (fishing lines, > lady's underwear) from fouling up the rudder/hull joint. That would > probably work with a rudder that was only an inch behind the stud, as > the offending item would slide down the stud and hit the leading edge of > the rudder. I don't think it has much value with the rudder you have, > so fill the hole and move on. > > And, here's where everyone will call me a heretic and burn me at the > stake. Once I had to do a spot repair, in three hours, to fix a mistake > made by a boatyard worker. My boat was taking on water, and the yard > boss was insisting that it was my fault, > <*SNIP*> > > Okay, I deleted 5000 words because I was getting metaphysical. > > Plug the hole and go sailing. > > Wal > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Martec Folding Prop
Dave, Had my Martec rebuilt last year before we headed to the Bahamas. Folks at Martec were easy to deal with. Had/have the only one blade deploying issue primarily when I failed to stop/slow sufficiently before putting in forward (ie sailing @ under 3 knots = time for iron genny) Couldn't kick it in gear w/o slowing more or else one blade deployment would be an issue (easy to do but hard to remember to do). After rebuild it is MUCH better and is now a very rare event. Besides the pin redo they rebuild the stops. Not sure what solves the issue but it is solved. Kim Brown TrustMe!!! 35-3 I have a Martec folding prop which when I come off the mooring operates fine. However if I slow down or stop to pick up crew at the dock something happens and it vibrates like crazy. It?s got to be that one of the blades folded and the other didn?t and when I accelerate it still vibrates as though the blade that folded does come out again. Both blades do deploy when I put it in reverse but then one folds when I go into forward. Is this how these folding blade props act when they have too much play? If anyone has had that happen and then had it reworked by Martec did this problem go away? Dave Saltaire C&C 35 Mk3 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List was A4, now Propane Locker
OK, while we are on the subject of silly things. The Previous owner of my boat had a fire extinguisher located in the propane locker. I thought it was kinda silly at first, I mean, who's gonna wanna reach in there if somethings ablaze? Then I thought about it some more and I figured if it got hot enough the pressure relief valve would just cause it to discharge all by itself, maybe aiding fire suppression any thoughts? For the record, I have more than enough fire extinguishers located all over the boat. I believe in having at least one in each cabin/room of the boat *in addition* to the bare minimum that the CG requires. Rob ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Charging problems 30-2 Yanmar 2 gm 20
Kevin, Glad you were able to trace the problem! This a good reminder for those with external regulators. Joel On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 12:58 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > After cleaning all the terminals, checking fuses etc. I found that the > wire from the alternator to the external regulator had corroded and fallen > off. I didn't see it at first because it's buried in my tight engine > compartment. Of course in hindsight I might have checked the regulator > earlier. Good thing is that u understand my charging system a whole lot > better and all the connections have been refreshed. I also got my link 20 > battery monitor working again. > > Had a couple of nice days in Victoria BC and pushing off for Arbutus cove > on discovery island soon. What a beautiful place to cruise... > > Kevin > 30-2 > Portland > > Sent from a mobile device. > On Jul 6, 2014 7:18 PM, "Josh Muckley" wrote: > >> 35v may infact be the open circuit voltage. Check if you are getting 35v >> at the battery terminals. That would explain the heat. Sounds to me like >> a bad charge regulator or bad interconnecting wiring on the sensing line. >> A standard lead acid 12v system should be limited to ~14.7v. Double that >> for a 24v system. >> >> With an external regulator the regulating terminal on the alternator >> connects to the regulator. This single wire provides the feedback to the >> alternator that it is providing enough (or not enough) voltage. Simple >> regulators rely only on voltage but the better external regulators will use >> a shunt to provide a current feedback to the regulator as well. The >> current is/should be directly proportional to the differance in voltage >> between the battery and the alternator output. The current should also be >> limited (by limiting the difference in voltage) to the max charging voltage >> of the battery (type) and the max output of the alternator. >> >> Disrupting the current and/or voltage sensing lines to the regulator or >> the regulating line to the alternator will cause improper voltage output >> from the alternator. 35v sounds VERY improper. This "disruption" is the >> reason that turning the ignition key to the off position before pulling the >> stop plunger can cause a blown alternator on some systems. The key >> disrupts the regulating signal and the alternator goes to max output. >> >> Let us know what you find. >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C&C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> On Jul 5, 2014 12:05 PM, "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List" < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> On our anniversary sail up to Victoria, we pulled in to Gray's harbour, >>> Wa last night because the batteries are not charging. Looking for >>> suggestions of diagnosis / solutions. See below: thanks >>> >>> The alternator belt was somewhat loose but I tightened it and no luck on >>> charging. Tested terminals on back of alternator and reading was same >>> before and after tightening... About 35 volts. >>> >>> About to start this morning by checking / cleaning battery terminals and >>> other connections from alternator back. Hoping this could be the issue >>> because as I previously posted my starter has been giving me the clicks. I >>> have the faint glow on the Charging indicator lamp at the engine panel too. >>> I have a heart interface "incharge " alternator regulator. >>> >>> Any other suggestions? >>> >>> Thanks >>> Kevin >>> >>> Sent from my Tablet >>> >>> ___ >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> >>> Email address: >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of >>> page at: >>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >>> >>> >>> > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List was A4, now Propane Locker
Bill, Holy crap, I never thought of that. My boat came with a latch and lock on the propane locker. Here I am spouting off at the gizzard thinking I'm doing the right thing. Assuming you are correct, and it seems like you may be, I guess I have to remove that latch and think of a new way to remind myself to shut off the valve. Surveyor never noticed either. Thanks, Rob ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List fishing radar cables through C&C 30-II headliner
Has anyone on the list had any experience fishing wires through the headliner of a C&C 30 mark II? I just added a radome on my mast with the cables exiting the mast along with the masthead light, etc, wiring and I'd like to get them back to the panel without going through the bilge. Thanks in advance! Mike C&C 30-II "Limerick" ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tiller
Brent, Several weeks ago a J30 broke its tiller at the windward mark, causing havoc for the rest of the fleet. Fortunately, he was doing his usual sloppy rounding and everyone managed to go between him and the mark as he did 360s while out of control. Don't be that idiot! Joel On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 1:31 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Yes there are less than perfect options available. I really like the look > of the original unit. C&C cut every corner on cost with the MkV (compared > to previous mks) but somehow spent money on this really slick tiller. I'd > prefer it look original when I'm done. > I looked at the website last night. Good to know they can build me a > rudder if I destroy mine. > > Brent Driedger > 27-5 > Lake Winnipeg. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jul 9, 2014, at 9:03 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > It was several years ago (2006?) when I looked for someone to custom build > this unusual tiller, and I believe ruddercraft was one of the places that > either said they couldn't do it, or lost my email address after I sent them > a photo of what it was I needed. > > Obviously, you could replace the tiller with a more conventinal one of the > correct width, using conventional metal sideplates to attach it to the > rudder, but that all wood wishbone tiller is a styling hallmark of the > 27-5. The custom builders that did respond all said that they could make > one of the right dimensions with metal sideplates that would "work". > > Bill Bina > > > On 7/9/2014 9:43 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote: > > Rudder craft can custom make one though not cheap. > http://www.ruddercraft.com/catalog/index.php. Jerry. C&C 27v. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 74 35 MkII Holding tank
Gary, Check with Rob at South Shore, when my sister replaced her mid 70’s C&C 30’s holding tank he had the exploded diagram on how it came apart … http://southshoreyachts.com/about_southshoreyacht/ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Garry Cross via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, July 9, 2014 1:54 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List 74 35 MkII Holding tank Hi all, I am trying to get my bathroom apart in order to access the stinky leaking recirculating bladder holding tank I have. So far I have the vanity sink, counter and cabinet face out. Does anyone have any experience doing this. The wall is giving me a bit of a challenge figuring out how to dismantle it. I found two plugs at the bottom and 4 screws that I removed from inside the sliding doors. Still tight as a drum. Thanks. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List 74 35 MkII Holding tank
Hi all, I am trying to get my bathroom apart in order to access the stinky leaking recirculating bladder holding tank I have. So far I have the vanity sink, counter and cabinet face out. Does anyone have any experience doing this. The wall is giving me a bit of a challenge figuring out how to dismantle it. I found two plugs at the bottom and 4 screws that I removed from inside the sliding doors. Still tight as a drum. Thanks. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tiller
I have made many bent shaft canoe paddles. From what you are describing sounds very doable. Can you send picture off list. Bill Walker CnV 36 Evening Star Pentwater, Mi Sent from my HTC - Reply message - From: "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" To: "Bill Bina - gmail" , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Subject: Stus-List Tiller Date: Wed, Jul 9, 2014 1:31 PM Yes there are less than perfect options available. I really like the look of the original unit. C&C cut every corner on cost with the MkV (compared to previous mks) but somehow spent money on this really slick tiller. I'd prefer it look original when I'm done. I looked at the website last night. Good to know they can build me a rudder if I destroy mine. Brent Driedger 27-5 Lake Winnipeg. Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 9, 2014, at 9:03 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List > wrote: > > It was several years ago (2006?) when I looked for someone to custom build > this unusual tiller, and I believe ruddercraft was one of the places that > either said they couldn't do it, or lost my email address after I sent them a > photo of what it was I needed. > > Obviously, you could replace the tiller with a more conventinal one of the > correct width, using conventional metal sideplates to attach it to the > rudder, but that all wood wishbone tiller is a styling hallmark of the 27-5. > The custom builders that did respond all said that they could make one of the > right dimensions with metal sideplates that would "work". > > Bill Bina > > >> On 7/9/2014 9:43 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote: >> Rudder craft can custom make one though not cheap. >> http://www.ruddercraft.com/catalog/index.php. Jerry. C&C 27v. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tiller
Yes there are less than perfect options available. I really like the look of the original unit. C&C cut every corner on cost with the MkV (compared to previous mks) but somehow spent money on this really slick tiller. I'd prefer it look original when I'm done. I looked at the website last night. Good to know they can build me a rudder if I destroy mine. Brent Driedger 27-5 Lake Winnipeg. Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 9, 2014, at 9:03 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List > wrote: > > It was several years ago (2006?) when I looked for someone to custom build > this unusual tiller, and I believe ruddercraft was one of the places that > either said they couldn't do it, or lost my email address after I sent them a > photo of what it was I needed. > > Obviously, you could replace the tiller with a more conventinal one of the > correct width, using conventional metal sideplates to attach it to the > rudder, but that all wood wishbone tiller is a styling hallmark of the 27-5. > The custom builders that did respond all said that they could make one of the > right dimensions with metal sideplates that would "work". > > Bill Bina > > >> On 7/9/2014 9:43 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote: >> Rudder craft can custom make one though not cheap. >> http://www.ruddercraft.com/catalog/index.php. Jerry. C&C 27v. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Folding prop horizontal vs vertical plane..
Hi Dave, My prop is for all intents brand new and I occasionally get the big vibration when I advance the throttle too quickly after shifting in reverse but never in forward. Going back to idle and accelerating smoothly fixes it. As for how much play you might have I think the only way to know for sure is to go for a quick dive and deploy the blades by hand / give them a wiggle. I would call Martec to ask them how much play you're looking for. I'd say less than 1/4 inch but I don't recall for sure. The Martec dude is pretty cool and responsive, he'll give you the right answer and additional advice. He really knows his stuff. -Francois 1990 34+ "Take Five" Lake Lanier, Georgia From: "David Jacobs" To: Jean-Francois J Rivard/Atlanta/IBM@IBMUS, Date: 07/09/2014 12:51 PM Subject:RE: Stus-List Folding prop horizontal vs vertical plane.. I have a Martec folding prop which when I come off the mooring operates fine. However if I slow down or stop to pick up crew at the dock something happens and it vibrates like crazy. It’s got to be that one of the blades folded and the other didn’t and when I accelerate it still vibrates as though the blade that folded does come out again. Both blades do deploy when I put it in reverse but then one folds when I go into forward. Is this how these folding blade props act when they have too much play? If anyone has had that happen and then had it reworked by Martec did this problem go away? Dave Saltaire C&C 35 Mk3 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 1:14 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Folding prop horizontal vs vertical plane.. My prop is folding, not feathering. On a non-geared folder If you have the blades on a vertical plane, the lower blade will hang down from gravity / add additional drag. On horizontal plane they fold together completely (Looks like a seaweed) and minimize drag. If it's a geared folder, they will fold completely no-matter the angle That's per Martec's instructions. See comment about the Pivot point (Shaft) being set vertical (Making the blades horizontal) http://www.martec-props.com/install_eliptec.htm As for the rebuilds, they are about a hundred bucks with Martec. They re-drill the hub, install a larger diameter shaft, re-drill the blades, balance and polish the whole thing. The prop looked brand new. Call the MFG to get an idea if you are out of specs. My blades wiggled more than 1 inch at the tips so it was pretty obvious.. -Francois Rivard 1990 C&C 34+ "Take Five" Lake Lanier, Georgia. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Charging problems 30-2 Yanmar 2 gm 20
After cleaning all the terminals, checking fuses etc. I found that the wire from the alternator to the external regulator had corroded and fallen off. I didn't see it at first because it's buried in my tight engine compartment. Of course in hindsight I might have checked the regulator earlier. Good thing is that u understand my charging system a whole lot better and all the connections have been refreshed. I also got my link 20 battery monitor working again. Had a couple of nice days in Victoria BC and pushing off for Arbutus cove on discovery island soon. What a beautiful place to cruise... Kevin 30-2 Portland Sent from a mobile device. On Jul 6, 2014 7:18 PM, "Josh Muckley" wrote: > 35v may infact be the open circuit voltage. Check if you are getting 35v > at the battery terminals. That would explain the heat. Sounds to me like > a bad charge regulator or bad interconnecting wiring on the sensing line. > A standard lead acid 12v system should be limited to ~14.7v. Double that > for a 24v system. > > With an external regulator the regulating terminal on the alternator > connects to the regulator. This single wire provides the feedback to the > alternator that it is providing enough (or not enough) voltage. Simple > regulators rely only on voltage but the better external regulators will use > a shunt to provide a current feedback to the regulator as well. The > current is/should be directly proportional to the differance in voltage > between the battery and the alternator output. The current should also be > limited (by limiting the difference in voltage) to the max charging voltage > of the battery (type) and the max output of the alternator. > > Disrupting the current and/or voltage sensing lines to the regulator or > the regulating line to the alternator will cause improper voltage output > from the alternator. 35v sounds VERY improper. This "disruption" is the > reason that turning the ignition key to the off position before pulling the > stop plunger can cause a blown alternator on some systems. The key > disrupts the regulating signal and the alternator goes to max output. > > Let us know what you find. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > On Jul 5, 2014 12:05 PM, "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List" < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> On our anniversary sail up to Victoria, we pulled in to Gray's harbour, >> Wa last night because the batteries are not charging. Looking for >> suggestions of diagnosis / solutions. See below: thanks >> >> The alternator belt was somewhat loose but I tightened it and no luck on >> charging. Tested terminals on back of alternator and reading was same >> before and after tightening... About 35 volts. >> >> About to start this morning by checking / cleaning battery terminals and >> other connections from alternator back. Hoping this could be the issue >> because as I previously posted my starter has been giving me the clicks. I >> have the faint glow on the Charging indicator lamp at the engine panel too. >> I have a heart interface "incharge " alternator regulator. >> >> Any other suggestions? >> >> Thanks >> Kevin >> >> Sent from my Tablet >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of >> page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Folding prop horizontal vs vertical plane..
I have a Martec folding prop which when I come off the mooring operates fine. However if I slow down or stop to pick up crew at the dock something happens and it vibrates like crazy. It's got to be that one of the blades folded and the other didn't and when I accelerate it still vibrates as though the blade that folded does come out again. Both blades do deploy when I put it in reverse but then one folds when I go into forward. Is this how these folding blade props act when they have too much play? If anyone has had that happen and then had it reworked by Martec did this problem go away? Dave Saltaire C&C 35 Mk3 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 1:14 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Folding prop horizontal vs vertical plane.. My prop is folding, not feathering. On a non-geared folder If you have the blades on a vertical plane, the lower blade will hang down from gravity / add additional drag. On horizontal plane they fold together completely (Looks like a seaweed) and minimize drag. If it's a geared folder, they will fold completely no-matter the angle That's per Martec's instructions. See comment about the Pivot point (Shaft) being set vertical (Making the blades horizontal) http://www.martec-props.com/install_eliptec.htm As for the rebuilds, they are about a hundred bucks with Martec. They re-drill the hub, install a larger diameter shaft, re-drill the blades, balance and polish the whole thing. The prop looked brand new. Call the MFG to get an idea if you are out of specs. My blades wiggled more than 1 inch at the tips so it was pretty obvious.. -Francois Rivard 1990 C&C 34+ "Take Five" Lake Lanier, Georgia. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 2014 NE C & C Rendezvous Website is Live!!
David, Do you have contact information to make reservations at the Alofsin Piers? Do you know if they are floating docks? Looking forward to seeing you in September. The Enterprise is planning to be there. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log On Jul 2, 2014, at 1:23 PM, David via CnC-List wrote: > > Please join us on September 19, 20 and 21 in Newport. In addition to the > usual fun of like-minds gathering; > > We will be having our own private boat show (demo sailing?) of the new C & Cs > Barry Carroll will be our guest speaker (see bio on website) > C & C (US Watercraft) will be sponsoring a cocktail party Saturday evening > We are located at The Alofsin Piers- a private docking venue > The Alofsin Piers are contingent to the Fort Adams Museum of Yachting (an > amazing museum if you have not been there) > And of course beautiful downtown Newport is a quick launch ride away > > The website link: www.cncrendezvous2014.com > > Please get the word out to your fellow C & C owners. > > I look forward to seeing new and familiar faces in September > > > > David F. Risch > Diane Kelley > 1981 40-2 > (401) 419-4650 (cell) > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List re Atomic 4 (Indigo)
NEVER lock or latch a propane locker! Repeat, NEVER. If the tank explodes you want the force to blow upwards through the freely opening hatch. If it is latched or locked, the force will blow downward through the bottom of your boat. I don't think legal propane lockers even have a latch. That is probably a code violation. Bill Bina On 7/9/2014 12:06 PM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List wrote: Jon, If people used the same due dilligence with their gas engines that you do with propane this would not be an issue. I have all the propane equipment you do and still turn off the gas at the tank when I'm done cooking. My propane locker has a pad lock on it, /rule on the boat is/; Lock open, gas on, lock closed, gas off. When I shut down the stove I step outside and shut the valve at the tank and close the pad lock. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Seacocks
Hi Chuck, I Typically close all seacocks before leaving the boat for the week. For me, it's a simple all or nothing deal and I have a placard (3 X 5 sheet of paper :-) ) I put on the sink cover (1st thing you see coming in the cabin) that says "All seacocks shut". Since I do it almost every time, I have a habit of always double checking the water intake before starting the engine for the 1st time. While I'm there I typically shine the flashlight around the engine compartment looking for anything obviously suspicious like high bilge water / fluid leaks / coolant reservoir level / occasional oil check / stuff like that. -Francois 1990 34+ "Take Five" Lake Lanier, Georgia ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List re Atomic 4 (Indigo)
Jon, If people used the same due dilligence with their gas engines that you do with propane this would not be an issue. I have all the propane equipment you do and still turn off the gas at the tank when I'm done cooking. My propane locker has a pad lock on it, *rule on the boat is*; Lock open, gas on, lock closed, gas off. When I shut down the stove I step outside and shut the valve at the tank and close the pad lock. To your argument, I was referring to a closed garage. If a car leaked 12 gallons of gas into a closed garage with an abundance of other flammable material combined with spark and just the right amount of air - fuel mixture, (light switch, garage door opener, blah blah) the results could be catastrophic. The point is, this rarely happens. Just as it rarely happens on a boat. I don't go around throwing lit matches into pools of gasoline, but the odds are that the match will go out before it ignites the gasoline and that is why we have so many fewer accidents than people think. The same goes for propane. The air - fuel mixture has to be remarkably "unlucky" to make things go boom. AGAIN, I'm not a proponent of leaving things to chance but science says if you open your propane tank in your cabin and light a cigarette, odds are nothing will happenno I'm not going to test that. :) If one has an A4, upgrade your fuel systems and keep them that way. Install a shut off valve on your fuel lines that will keep gas from running into your bilge if you are not around to take notice. A gasoline sniffer is a nice thing to have as well. I believe some detect both gasoline and propane. All this safety equipment can't stop my ex-girlfriend from stabbing me with an ice pick. Does anyone make an ex-girlfriend sniffer? She keeps giving me "that look" when I run into her. Rob ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Atomic 4
Thanks Joe, you've basically articulated my viewpoint better than I could. The A4 has an undeserved bad reputation that, when viewed from a financial perspective, is a good thing for the buyers out there .. of course, bad for sellers. However, upgrading to a diesel won't get you your money back .. either on the resale or the fuel consumption, unless you're motoring around the world. I tried posting a story the other day about the Russian Canadian that recently came back from a circumnavigation .. on a 1972 C&C 35 with ... an A4. I emailed Stu to ask him to check the filters because I think that story and videos will be of interest to the list. (he bought the boat for $1000 in June 2011 and came back from his solo circumnavigation a few weeks back... had no sailing experience prior). Steve Suhana, C&C 32 Toronto On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 11:27 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I have had a boat with a diesel and the 4-107 is definitely a better boat > engine than an A4 if you can fit one in your boat. Unlike the A4, which is > the height of 1920s tech, the 4-107 is the height of 1950s tech. Even > better are the Kubota derived diesels like the Beta that are this century > tech J Modern diesels can drive a big alternator faster off the crank > than an A4 ever will off the accessory pulley. > > The reason some of us get annoyed with the “A4 oh no you will die for > sure” meme you see over and over on the internet and various boat reviews > is it gives people really bad financial advice. For sure if you are headed > offshore the range advantage and ease of getting fuel for a diesel trump > the cost, but for local and coastal cruising not so much. PS just did a > review of the Alberg 35, which is a boat worth maybe $25,000 for a really > good one, and of course they were going on about “you must get a diesel”. > So you take say a $20,000 boat, spend $12,000-$15,000 on a diesel > conversion, and now have – AT BEST – a $25,000 boat. I recently saw a C&C > 35 MK I that looked to be a decent boat for sail with a 30 HP diesel for > $16K. That is essentially the cost of the engine and the boat is free! > Meanwhile the best A4 rebuild is going to run you $6K and not require a new > prop, new instruments, new controls, etc. etc. > > > > All that said, it is very possible to have a really bad A4 installation. > The engines are not magic and after decades of poor to no maintenance they > may well be on their last legs. The engines are mostly not FWC and may be > rusting through the block, head, manifold, or all three. Specific to C&C, > the original fuel systems would be VERY BAD and DANGEROUS by this point in > time. C&C used ternplate fuel tanks back in the day that WILL rust through. > First thing they do is send a ton of rust to the engine and the next thing > they do is have a hole in the bottom. They rust from the INSIDE, so they > look fine until you are ankle-deep in gas. The hoses, including the fill > hose, the vent hose, and the funky rubber elbow used on 35s, were not rated > for ethanol. They WILL come apart sooner or later. If you have ANY part of > the original fuel system at all from the 70s it is way past due to be > replaced. At least on my boat there was no Racor either from the factory, > the fuel line went straight to the engine. > > > > *Joe Della Barba* > > Coquina > > C&C 35 MK I > > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Atomic 4
I have had a boat with a diesel and the 4-107 is definitely a better boat engine than an A4 if you can fit one in your boat. Unlike the A4, which is the height of 1920s tech, the 4-107 is the height of 1950s tech. Even better are the Kubota derived diesels like the Beta that are this century tech ☺ Modern diesels can drive a big alternator faster off the crank than an A4 ever will off the accessory pulley. The reason some of us get annoyed with the “A4 oh no you will die for sure” meme you see over and over on the internet and various boat reviews is it gives people really bad financial advice. For sure if you are headed offshore the range advantage and ease of getting fuel for a diesel trump the cost, but for local and coastal cruising not so much. PS just did a review of the Alberg 35, which is a boat worth maybe $25,000 for a really good one, and of course they were going on about “you must get a diesel”. So you take say a $20,000 boat, spend $12,000-$15,000 on a diesel conversion, and now have – AT BEST – a $25,000 boat. I recently saw a C&C 35 MK I that looked to be a decent boat for sail with a 30 HP diesel for $16K. That is essentially the cost of the engine and the boat is free! Meanwhile the best A4 rebuild is going to run you $6K and not require a new prop, new instruments, new controls, etc. etc. All that said, it is very possible to have a really bad A4 installation. The engines are not magic and after decades of poor to no maintenance they may well be on their last legs. The engines are mostly not FWC and may be rusting through the block, head, manifold, or all three. Specific to C&C, the original fuel systems would be VERY BAD and DANGEROUS by this point in time. C&C used ternplate fuel tanks back in the day that WILL rust through. First thing they do is send a ton of rust to the engine and the next thing they do is have a hole in the bottom. They rust from the INSIDE, so they look fine until you are ankle-deep in gas. The hoses, including the fill hose, the vent hose, and the funky rubber elbow used on 35s, were not rated for ethanol. They WILL come apart sooner or later. If you have ANY part of the original fuel system at all from the 70s it is way past due to be replaced. At least on my boat there was no Racor either from the factory, the fuel line went straight to the engine. Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List seacocks
I close all my seacocks unless they're being used. The first thing I did with my boat when I purchased it was to replace all of the original gate valves and thru-hulls with proper bronze sea-cocks .. all but the cockpit drains. I did not replace those through hulls and gate valves because the valves still work and they are the only ones that remain open 100% of the time. I did however replace the hoses on the cockpit drains and used double ss hose clamps, not easy on the stbd side on my boat. All hoses to any thru-hull on my boat are new, as is the fuel fill and as of today, the fuel lines. This includes all plumbing including head and freshwater as well as vents. No old hoses on Suhana. I spend a lot of time working on the boat. Steve Suhana, C&C 32 Toronto On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 10:20 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Funny you mentioned that. I found it curious that my cockpit drains are > below the waterline. All my cockpit drains in my old boat were (just) above > the waterline. That seems like a more prudent practice. Not sure the logic > behind this practice. > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh > Muckley via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, July 09, 2014 10:11 AM > *To:* C&C List; cpt.b...@gmail.com > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List seacocks > > > > Curtis, > > Cycling the seacocks is a great practice. I hope you misspoke when you > said you have seacocks on your cockpit drains closed. Maybe I > misunderstand but if the drains are closed where does the water go when it > rains? Similarly, ice dams in cockpit drains has sunk boats at the dock > through the winter months. I guess in SC you don't have to worry about > that though do you!? > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > On Jul 9, 2014 10:01 AM, "Curtis via CnC-List" > wrote: > > I have a C&C30 MK1 with a updated 2GM20F . I run the engine compartment > blower to suck out the heat and vent the area while running. But not for > the extraction of CO2. I haven't worried about that. With an open forward > hatch and and the cockpit hatch open pushing no less than 3 knots of winds > threw the cabin house I would not think it CO2 be a problem. Maybe it > could be a problem on the hook charging batteries in a rain, with the boat > sealed up and not venting the exhaust. > > > > Sea Cocks. I have my boat at the dock. I visit it weekly, some times 2 > times a week. The Sea cocks are always closed unless needed. This habit > makes you work them or not sail. It is a great policy for required > maintenance. If they stay closed unless needed you will give them a work > out each time you use the boat. I have a > > 1) Port side cock pit drain, > > 2) I have a starbord cockpit drain that has a Y fitting to drain the gally > sink. > > 3) I have a raw water intake for the engine. > > 4) I have a raw water intake for the head. > > 5) I have a drain for the Head > > 6) I have a drain for the Head sink > > They all get a turn or two each week. > > > > Its a small chore but gives me "peace" of mind. > > > > Curtis > > C&C 30 MK1 675M81E > > > > > > On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 12:54 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Bob, > > seacocks > > I'm keeping my boat 2 1/2 hrs from home and closing seacocks more than I > used to. I'm trying to develop better habits closing up the boat prior to > leaving for the week. Got any tips or maybe a checklist? > > > > > > > > Chuck > *Resolute* > 1990 C&C 34R > Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md > > > -- > > *From: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" > *To: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" > *Sent: *Wednesday, July 9, 2014 12:27:22 AM > *Subject: *Stus-List Atomic 4 > > > > I tried to stay out of this one, but the Irish whiskey has taken over. > > > > Atomic four engines are safe if properly maintained. Those of you who > claim otherwise are just blowing smoke. > > > > Those of you who are under the impression that a diesel upgrade saving you > .5 gallons per hour will pay off in a lifetime of a weekend sailor have > lost the plot or have not done the simple math. > > > > US$10,000.00 for a diesel upgrade, saving US$2.00 in fuel per hour of > motoring will take how long to pay for itself? (My old A4 burned about 3/4 > to 1.0 gallon an hour, my Yanmar turns 1/2 - 3/4 a gallon per hour.) > > > > For those of you so scared of gasoline engines, how many of you keep a car > or two, lawn mower, weed whacker, leaf blower, spare gas can, oil, paint, > spray cans, etc. ad nauseam in your attached garage? Really? > > > > How many of you keep that gas grill and/or spare propane tanks in that > same garage? Or sitting on the deck outside your bedroom window? > > > > How many of you have a smoke detector and CO2 detector on your boat? > > > > Those of you who throw stones better not have your kids napping in the > Vberth whilst you run that motor without CO2 detector(S). > > > > The key to ANY engin
Re: Stus-List seacocks
Funny you mentioned that. I found it curious that my cockpit drains are below the waterline. All my cockpit drains in my old boat were (just) above the waterline. That seems like a more prudent practice. Not sure the logic behind this practice. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 10:11 AM To: C&C List; cpt.b...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List seacocks Curtis, Cycling the seacocks is a great practice. I hope you misspoke when you said you have seacocks on your cockpit drains closed. Maybe I misunderstand but if the drains are closed where does the water go when it rains? Similarly, ice dams in cockpit drains has sunk boats at the dock through the winter months. I guess in SC you don't have to worry about that though do you!? Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jul 9, 2014 10:01 AM, "Curtis via CnC-List" wrote: I have a C&C30 MK1 with a updated 2GM20F . I run the engine compartment blower to suck out the heat and vent the area while running. But not for the extraction of CO2. I haven't worried about that. With an open forward hatch and and the cockpit hatch open pushing no less than 3 knots of winds threw the cabin house I would not think it CO2 be a problem. Maybe it could be a problem on the hook charging batteries in a rain, with the boat sealed up and not venting the exhaust. Sea Cocks. I have my boat at the dock. I visit it weekly, some times 2 times a week. The Sea cocks are always closed unless needed. This habit makes you work them or not sail. It is a great policy for required maintenance. If they stay closed unless needed you will give them a work out each time you use the boat. I have a 1) Port side cock pit drain, 2) I have a starbord cockpit drain that has a Y fitting to drain the gally sink. 3) I have a raw water intake for the engine. 4) I have a raw water intake for the head. 5) I have a drain for the Head 6) I have a drain for the Head sink They all get a turn or two each week. Its a small chore but gives me "peace" of mind. Curtis C&C 30 MK1 675M81E On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 12:54 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote: Bob, seacocks I'm keeping my boat 2 1/2 hrs from home and closing seacocks more than I used to. I'm trying to develop better habits closing up the boat prior to leaving for the week. Got any tips or maybe a checklist? Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md _ From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" Sent: Wednesday, July 9, 2014 12:27:22 AM Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 I tried to stay out of this one, but the Irish whiskey has taken over. Atomic four engines are safe if properly maintained. Those of you who claim otherwise are just blowing smoke. Those of you who are under the impression that a diesel upgrade saving you .5 gallons per hour will pay off in a lifetime of a weekend sailor have lost the plot or have not done the simple math. US$10,000.00 for a diesel upgrade, saving US$2.00 in fuel per hour of motoring will take how long to pay for itself? (My old A4 burned about 3/4 to 1.0 gallon an hour, my Yanmar turns 1/2 - 3/4 a gallon per hour.) For those of you so scared of gasoline engines, how many of you keep a car or two, lawn mower, weed whacker, leaf blower, spare gas can, oil, paint, spray cans, etc. ad nauseam in your attached garage? Really? How many of you keep that gas grill and/or spare propane tanks in that same garage? Or sitting on the deck outside your bedroom window? How many of you have a smoke detector and CO2 detector on your boat? Those of you who throw stones better not have your kids napping in the Vberth whilst you run that motor without CO2 detector(S). The key to ANY engine is maintaining it. Constantly. Regular periodic maintenance and upgrades. Just like any other gas engine, you can't leave it for a decade and expect your fuel lines, tank or carb not to develop problems. Install a quality petcock on the fuel lines and close it when you close the through hulls at the end of the day Oh, you don't close your through hulls?... Never mind. Rant complete, over and out. Rob ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- "All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, bu
Re: Stus-List seacocks
Curtis, Cycling the seacocks is a great practice. I hope you misspoke when you said you have seacocks on your cockpit drains closed. Maybe I misunderstand but if the drains are closed where does the water go when it rains? Similarly, ice dams in cockpit drains has sunk boats at the dock through the winter months. I guess in SC you don't have to worry about that though do you!? Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jul 9, 2014 10:01 AM, "Curtis via CnC-List" wrote: > I have a C&C30 MK1 with a updated 2GM20F . I run the engine compartment > blower to suck out the heat and vent the area while running. But not for > the extraction of CO2. I haven't worried about that. With an open forward > hatch and and the cockpit hatch open pushing no less than 3 knots of winds > threw the cabin house I would not think it CO2 be a problem. Maybe it > could be a problem on the hook charging batteries in a rain, with the boat > sealed up and not venting the exhaust. > > Sea Cocks. I have my boat at the dock. I visit it weekly, some times 2 > times a week. The Sea cocks are always closed unless needed. This habit > makes you work them or not sail. It is a great policy for required > maintenance. If they stay closed unless needed you will give them a work > out each time you use the boat. I have a > 1) Port side cock pit drain, > 2) I have a starbord cockpit drain that has a Y fitting to drain the gally > sink. > 3) I have a raw water intake for the engine. > 4) I have a raw water intake for the head. > 5) I have a drain for the Head > 6) I have a drain for the Head sink > They all get a turn or two each week. > > Its a small chore but gives me "peace" of mind. > > Curtis > C&C 30 MK1 675M81E > > > > On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 12:54 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Bob, >> seacocks >> I'm keeping my boat 2 1/2 hrs from home and closing seacocks more than I >> used to. I'm trying to develop better habits closing up the boat prior to >> leaving for the week. Got any tips or maybe a checklist? >> >> >> >> Chuck >> Resolute >> 1990 C&C 34R >> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md >> >> -- >> *From: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" >> *To: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" >> *Sent: *Wednesday, July 9, 2014 12:27:22 AM >> *Subject: *Stus-List Atomic 4 >> >> I tried to stay out of this one, but the Irish whiskey has taken over. >> >> Atomic four engines are safe if properly maintained. Those of you who >> claim otherwise are just blowing smoke. >> >> Those of you who are under the impression that a diesel upgrade saving >> you .5 gallons per hour will pay off in a lifetime of a weekend sailor have >> lost the plot or have not done the simple math. >> >> US$10,000.00 for a diesel upgrade, saving US$2.00 in fuel per hour of >> motoring will take how long to pay for itself? (My old A4 burned about 3/4 >> to 1.0 gallon an hour, my Yanmar turns 1/2 - 3/4 a gallon per hour.) >> >> For those of you so scared of gasoline engines, how many of you keep a >> car or two, lawn mower, weed whacker, leaf blower, spare gas can, oil, >> paint, spray cans, etc. ad nauseam in your attached garage? Really? >> >> How many of you keep that gas grill and/or spare propane tanks in that >> same garage? Or sitting on the deck outside your bedroom window? >> >> How many of you have a smoke detector and CO2 detector on your boat? >> >> Those of you who throw stones better not have your kids napping in the >> Vberth whilst you run that motor without CO2 detector(S). >> >> The key to ANY engine is maintaining it. Constantly. Regular periodic >> maintenance and upgrades. Just like any other gas engine, you can't leave >> it for a decade and expect your fuel lines, tank or carb not to develop >> problems. >> >> Install a quality petcock on the fuel lines and close it when you close >> the through hulls at the end of the day Oh, you don't close your >> through hulls?... Never mind. >> >> Rant complete, over and out. >> >> Rob >> >> >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of >> page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of >> page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> > > > -- > "All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty > recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the > dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with > open eyes, to make it possible." > > T. E. Lawrence > > . > > > > > ___ > This L
Re: Stus-List seacocks
To add to the checklist, some people have found it helpful to hang the ignition key off the Raw Water Intake Sea Cock handle. Saves that error. Ken H. On 9 July 2014 11:00, Curtis via CnC-List wrote: > I have a C&C30 MK1 with a updated 2GM20F . I run the engine compartment > blower to suck out the heat and vent the area while running. But not for > the extraction of CO2. I haven't worried about that. With an open forward > hatch and and the cockpit hatch open pushing no less than 3 knots of winds > threw the cabin house I would not think it CO2 be a problem. Maybe it > could be a problem on the hook charging batteries in a rain, with the boat > sealed up and not venting the exhaust. > > Sea Cocks. I have my boat at the dock. I visit it weekly, some times 2 > times a week. The Sea cocks are always closed unless needed. This habit > makes you work them or not sail. It is a great policy for required > maintenance. If they stay closed unless needed you will give them a work > out each time you use the boat. I have a > 1) Port side cock pit drain, > 2) I have a starbord cockpit drain that has a Y fitting to drain the gally > sink. > 3) I have a raw water intake for the engine. > 4) I have a raw water intake for the head. > 5) I have a drain for the Head > 6) I have a drain for the Head sink > They all get a turn or two each week. > > Its a small chore but gives me "peace" of mind. > > Curtis > C&C 30 MK1 675M81E > > > > On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 12:54 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Bob, >> seacocks >> I'm keeping my boat 2 1/2 hrs from home and closing seacocks more than I >> used to. I'm trying to develop better habits closing up the boat prior to >> leaving for the week. Got any tips or maybe a checklist? >> >> >> >> Chuck >> Resolute >> 1990 C&C 34R >> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md >> >> -- >> *From: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" >> *To: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" >> *Sent: *Wednesday, July 9, 2014 12:27:22 AM >> *Subject: *Stus-List Atomic 4 >> >> I tried to stay out of this one, but the Irish whiskey has taken over. >> >> Atomic four engines are safe if properly maintained. Those of you who >> claim otherwise are just blowing smoke. >> >> Those of you who are under the impression that a diesel upgrade saving >> you .5 gallons per hour will pay off in a lifetime of a weekend sailor have >> lost the plot or have not done the simple math. >> >> US$10,000.00 for a diesel upgrade, saving US$2.00 in fuel per hour of >> motoring will take how long to pay for itself? (My old A4 burned about 3/4 >> to 1.0 gallon an hour, my Yanmar turns 1/2 - 3/4 a gallon per hour.) >> >> For those of you so scared of gasoline engines, how many of you keep a >> car or two, lawn mower, weed whacker, leaf blower, spare gas can, oil, >> paint, spray cans, etc. ad nauseam in your attached garage? Really? >> >> How many of you keep that gas grill and/or spare propane tanks in that >> same garage? Or sitting on the deck outside your bedroom window? >> >> How many of you have a smoke detector and CO2 detector on your boat? >> >> Those of you who throw stones better not have your kids napping in the >> Vberth whilst you run that motor without CO2 detector(S). >> >> The key to ANY engine is maintaining it. Constantly. Regular periodic >> maintenance and upgrades. Just like any other gas engine, you can't leave >> it for a decade and expect your fuel lines, tank or carb not to develop >> problems. >> >> Install a quality petcock on the fuel lines and close it when you close >> the through hulls at the end of the day Oh, you don't close your >> through hulls?... Never mind. >> >> Rant complete, over and out. >> >> Rob >> >> >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of >> page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of >> page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> > > > -- > "All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty > recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the > dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with > open eyes, to make it possible." > > T. E. Lawrence > > . > > > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > ___ This
Re: Stus-List Tiller
It was several years ago (2006?) when I looked for someone to custom build this unusual tiller, and I believe ruddercraft was one of the places that either said they couldn't do it, or lost my email address after I sent them a photo of what it was I needed. Obviously, you could replace the tiller with a more conventinal one of the correct width, using conventional metal sideplates to attach it to the rudder, but that all wood wishbone tiller is a styling hallmark of the 27-5. The custom builders that did respond all said that they could make one of the right dimensions with metal sideplates that would "work". Bill Bina On 7/9/2014 9:43 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote: Rudder craft can custom make one though not cheap. http://www.ruddercraft.com/catalog/index.php. Jerry. C&C 27v. Sent from my iPhone ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List seacocks
I have a C&C30 MK1 with a updated 2GM20F . I run the engine compartment blower to suck out the heat and vent the area while running. But not for the extraction of CO2. I haven't worried about that. With an open forward hatch and and the cockpit hatch open pushing no less than 3 knots of winds threw the cabin house I would not think it CO2 be a problem. Maybe it could be a problem on the hook charging batteries in a rain, with the boat sealed up and not venting the exhaust. Sea Cocks. I have my boat at the dock. I visit it weekly, some times 2 times a week. The Sea cocks are always closed unless needed. This habit makes you work them or not sail. It is a great policy for required maintenance. If they stay closed unless needed you will give them a work out each time you use the boat. I have a 1) Port side cock pit drain, 2) I have a starbord cockpit drain that has a Y fitting to drain the gally sink. 3) I have a raw water intake for the engine. 4) I have a raw water intake for the head. 5) I have a drain for the Head 6) I have a drain for the Head sink They all get a turn or two each week. Its a small chore but gives me "peace" of mind. Curtis C&C 30 MK1 675M81E On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 12:54 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote: > Bob, > seacocks > I'm keeping my boat 2 1/2 hrs from home and closing seacocks more than I > used to. I'm trying to develop better habits closing up the boat prior to > leaving for the week. Got any tips or maybe a checklist? > > > > Chuck > Resolute > 1990 C&C 34R > Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md > > -- > *From: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" > *To: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" > *Sent: *Wednesday, July 9, 2014 12:27:22 AM > *Subject: *Stus-List Atomic 4 > > I tried to stay out of this one, but the Irish whiskey has taken over. > > Atomic four engines are safe if properly maintained. Those of you who > claim otherwise are just blowing smoke. > > Those of you who are under the impression that a diesel upgrade saving you > .5 gallons per hour will pay off in a lifetime of a weekend sailor have > lost the plot or have not done the simple math. > > US$10,000.00 for a diesel upgrade, saving US$2.00 in fuel per hour of > motoring will take how long to pay for itself? (My old A4 burned about 3/4 > to 1.0 gallon an hour, my Yanmar turns 1/2 - 3/4 a gallon per hour.) > > For those of you so scared of gasoline engines, how many of you keep a car > or two, lawn mower, weed whacker, leaf blower, spare gas can, oil, paint, > spray cans, etc. ad nauseam in your attached garage? Really? > > How many of you keep that gas grill and/or spare propane tanks in that > same garage? Or sitting on the deck outside your bedroom window? > > How many of you have a smoke detector and CO2 detector on your boat? > > Those of you who throw stones better not have your kids napping in the > Vberth whilst you run that motor without CO2 detector(S). > > The key to ANY engine is maintaining it. Constantly. Regular periodic > maintenance and upgrades. Just like any other gas engine, you can't leave > it for a decade and expect your fuel lines, tank or carb not to develop > problems. > > Install a quality petcock on the fuel lines and close it when you close > the through hulls at the end of the day Oh, you don't close your > through hulls?... Never mind. > > Rant complete, over and out. > > Rob > > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > -- "All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible." T. E. Lawrence . ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Atomic 4
Sorry, I meant CO. I blame the Bushmill's. Thanks for setting me straight. :) Rob On Wednesday, July 9, 2014, Burt Stratton > wrote: > Bob, > > > > You bring up an excellent point about CO detectors. (not CO2). Any fired > device (stove, engine, generator, etc.) is capable of quickly generating > dangerous levels of carbon monoxide in a confined space such as the cabin > of a sailboat. It is very rare to find one properly installed on a boat. I > am not aware of any code requirements but there are battery operated > combination photo-electric / CO detectors on the market at very reasonable > cost. I highly recommend them. I had two in my 1954 38 foot wheeler. We ran > the generator frequently for long periods of time while on board. > > > > Skip > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Robert > Gallagher via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, July 09, 2014 12:27 AM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Subject:* Stus-List Atomic 4 > > > > I tried to stay out of this one, but the Irish whiskey has taken over. > > > > Atomic four engines are safe if properly maintained. Those of you who > claim otherwise are just blowing smoke. > > > > Those of you who are under the impression that a diesel upgrade saving you > .5 gallons per hour will pay off in a lifetime of a weekend sailor have > lost the plot or have not done the simple math. > > > > US$10,000.00 for a diesel upgrade, saving US$2.00 in fuel per hour of > motoring will take how long to pay for itself? (My old A4 burned about 3/4 > to 1.0 gallon an hour, my Yanmar turns 1/2 - 3/4 a gallon per hour.) > > > > For those of you so scared of gasoline engines, how many of you keep a car > or two, lawn mower, weed whacker, leaf blower, spare gas can, oil, paint, > spray cans, etc. ad nauseam in your attached garage? Really? > > > > How many of you keep that gas grill and/or spare propane tanks in that > same garage? Or sitting on the deck outside your bedroom window? > > > > How many of you have a smoke detector and CO2 detector on your boat? > > > > Those of you who throw stones better not have your kids napping in the > Vberth whilst you run that motor without CO2 detector(S). > > > > The key to ANY engine is maintaining it. Constantly. Regular periodic > maintenance and upgrades. Just like any other gas engine, you can't leave > it for a decade and expect your fuel lines, tank or carb not to develop > problems. > > > > Install a quality petcock on the fuel lines and close it when you close > the through hulls at the end of the day Oh, you don't close your > through hulls?... Never mind. > > > > Rant complete, over and out. > > > > Rob > > > > > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tiller
Amazing that I can get a custom built laminated mahogany and ash tiller for less than a telescoping asymmetrical tiller extension! I am getting quite a lesson in the cost of sailing gear and I haven't even started looking into my rigging. -Original Message- From: Jerome Tauber [mailto:jrtau...@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 9:44 AM To: Burt Stratton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Tiller Rudder craft can custom make one though not cheap. http://www.ruddercraft.com/catalog/index.php. Jerry. C&C 27v. Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 9, 2014, at 8:41 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List wrote: > > Related sort of... I just restored my tiller but I have a hiking stick > attached with a handle on it (as opposed to a golf stick) I have never > used a hiking stick but this looks more comfortable than the golf stick version. > It is pretty beat up so I thought I'd look into replacing it but have > found only a couple options. Spinlock seems to own the market and $200 > is about the minimum I found. Is that what I am looking at to replace > this? Should I look at a different type? Suggestions are welcome. > > Skip > 1974 C&C 33 3/4 tonner > Portsmouth, RI > > -Original Message- > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of > Andrew Burton via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 8:04 AM > To: Brent Driedger; cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List Tiller > > Don't overlook your natural resources; a couple of hockey sticks glued > together make a fine tiller. Sans blades, of course. > > Andy > C&C 40 > Peregrine > > Andrew Burton > 61 W Narragansett > Newport, RI > USA02840 > > http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ > +401 965-5260 > >>> On Jul 9, 2014, at 7:38, Brent Driedger via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> Hi Bill this is likely the route I will go. One of my crew is a fine > woodwork carpenter. I've approached him already. >> I cant do anything with the old one. It was rough 6 years ago when I > bought the boat, so much so th PO Had an aluminum reinforcement made > for it, kind of a frame that takes the majority of the load from the > weakest area of the tiller. Even though the ends have rotted, this > bracket has allowed me to run it further than. I'm comfortable with. >> >> Brent Driedger >> 27-5 >> Lake Winnipeg. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Jul 9, 2014, at 5:09 AM, Bill Bina via CnC-List > wrote: >>> >>> When mine got damaged by being twisted with great force, I did quite >>> a > bit of asking around at places that advertise that they can make > replacements for any tiller. None would do it. So I did it myself. > Bought some teak and sliced it into 3/8" thick strips. Built a jig to > form the shape and laminated the 4 strips clamped in the jig using > West System 205 resin, a little 405 filler powder, and the SLOW 206 > hardener. For gluing wood, you want the epoxy to cure slowly so it has > a chance to really seep into the wood grain. Lots of clamps! The > spacer at the back end is just some strips glued up into a block. The > only design change I made was to extend the grip end by 4 inches. The > reason for that was because the hiking stick on the original was > mounted about an inch from the end, and I could not fit my hand in > front of it. I also filled in the narrowest part of the split with > thickened epoxy as I always found that narrow pointy gap a problem > when refinishing. I think I have some pictures of the process. I'll > look tonight and see if I can find them. I did consider making it from > aluminum, but that tiller is one of the few pieces of teak on the boat, and it matters to the overall look of the boat. >>> >>> Bill Bina >>> >>> On 7/9/2014 1:10 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote: The tiller on my 27-V is on its last legsI'm going to replace it > this winter and want to know the best place to order a new one from. > It's design splits toward the aft end to hug the rudder and I don't > see anything like it on stock shops. So custom is going to be the > order of the day. How about composite? No more maintenance. Brent Driedger 27-5 Lake Winnipeg. Sent from my iPhone ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com . >>> >>> >>> ___ >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> >>> Email address: >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go >>> bottom of > page at: >>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo
Re: Stus-List Tiller
Great resource! Thank you -Original Message- From: Jerome Tauber [mailto:jrtau...@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 9:44 AM To: Burt Stratton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Tiller Rudder craft can custom make one though not cheap. http://www.ruddercraft.com/catalog/index.php. Jerry. C&C 27v. Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 9, 2014, at 8:41 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List wrote: > > Related sort of... I just restored my tiller but I have a hiking stick > attached with a handle on it (as opposed to a golf stick) I have never > used a hiking stick but this looks more comfortable than the golf stick version. > It is pretty beat up so I thought I'd look into replacing it but have > found only a couple options. Spinlock seems to own the market and $200 > is about the minimum I found. Is that what I am looking at to replace > this? Should I look at a different type? Suggestions are welcome. > > Skip > 1974 C&C 33 3/4 tonner > Portsmouth, RI > > -Original Message- > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of > Andrew Burton via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 8:04 AM > To: Brent Driedger; cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List Tiller > > Don't overlook your natural resources; a couple of hockey sticks glued > together make a fine tiller. Sans blades, of course. > > Andy > C&C 40 > Peregrine > > Andrew Burton > 61 W Narragansett > Newport, RI > USA02840 > > http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ > +401 965-5260 > >>> On Jul 9, 2014, at 7:38, Brent Driedger via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> Hi Bill this is likely the route I will go. One of my crew is a fine > woodwork carpenter. I've approached him already. >> I cant do anything with the old one. It was rough 6 years ago when I > bought the boat, so much so th PO Had an aluminum reinforcement made > for it, kind of a frame that takes the majority of the load from the > weakest area of the tiller. Even though the ends have rotted, this > bracket has allowed me to run it further than. I'm comfortable with. >> >> Brent Driedger >> 27-5 >> Lake Winnipeg. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Jul 9, 2014, at 5:09 AM, Bill Bina via CnC-List > wrote: >>> >>> When mine got damaged by being twisted with great force, I did quite >>> a > bit of asking around at places that advertise that they can make > replacements for any tiller. None would do it. So I did it myself. > Bought some teak and sliced it into 3/8" thick strips. Built a jig to > form the shape and laminated the 4 strips clamped in the jig using > West System 205 resin, a little 405 filler powder, and the SLOW 206 > hardener. For gluing wood, you want the epoxy to cure slowly so it has > a chance to really seep into the wood grain. Lots of clamps! The > spacer at the back end is just some strips glued up into a block. The > only design change I made was to extend the grip end by 4 inches. The > reason for that was because the hiking stick on the original was > mounted about an inch from the end, and I could not fit my hand in > front of it. I also filled in the narrowest part of the split with > thickened epoxy as I always found that narrow pointy gap a problem > when refinishing. I think I have some pictures of the process. I'll > look tonight and see if I can find them. I did consider making it from > aluminum, but that tiller is one of the few pieces of teak on the boat, and it matters to the overall look of the boat. >>> >>> Bill Bina >>> >>> On 7/9/2014 1:10 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote: The tiller on my 27-V is on its last legsI'm going to replace it > this winter and want to know the best place to order a new one from. > It's design splits toward the aft end to hug the rudder and I don't > see anything like it on stock shops. So custom is going to be the > order of the day. How about composite? No more maintenance. Brent Driedger 27-5 Lake Winnipeg. Sent from my iPhone ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com . >>> >>> >>> ___ >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> >>> Email address: >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go >>> bottom of > page at: >>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom >> of > page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > ___
Re: Stus-List Tiller
Rudder craft can custom make one though not cheap. http://www.ruddercraft.com/catalog/index.php. Jerry. C&C 27v. Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 9, 2014, at 8:41 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List > wrote: > > Related sort of... I just restored my tiller but I have a hiking stick > attached with a handle on it (as opposed to a golf stick) I have never used > a hiking stick but this looks more comfortable than the golf stick version. > It is pretty beat up so I thought I'd look into replacing it but have found > only a couple options. Spinlock seems to own the market and $200 is about > the minimum I found. Is that what I am looking at to replace this? Should I > look at a different type? Suggestions are welcome. > > Skip > 1974 C&C 33 3/4 tonner > Portsmouth, RI > > -Original Message- > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew > Burton via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 8:04 AM > To: Brent Driedger; cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List Tiller > > Don't overlook your natural resources; a couple of hockey sticks glued > together make a fine tiller. Sans blades, of course. > > Andy > C&C 40 > Peregrine > > Andrew Burton > 61 W Narragansett > Newport, RI > USA02840 > > http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ > +401 965-5260 > >>> On Jul 9, 2014, at 7:38, Brent Driedger via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> Hi Bill this is likely the route I will go. One of my crew is a fine > woodwork carpenter. I've approached him already. >> I cant do anything with the old one. It was rough 6 years ago when I > bought the boat, so much so th PO Had an aluminum reinforcement made for it, > kind of a frame that takes the majority of the load from the weakest area of > the tiller. Even though the ends have rotted, this bracket has allowed me to > run it further than. I'm comfortable with. >> >> Brent Driedger >> 27-5 >> Lake Winnipeg. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Jul 9, 2014, at 5:09 AM, Bill Bina via CnC-List > wrote: >>> >>> When mine got damaged by being twisted with great force, I did quite a > bit of asking around at places that advertise that they can make > replacements for any tiller. None would do it. So I did it myself. Bought > some teak and sliced it into 3/8" thick strips. Built a jig to form the > shape and laminated the 4 strips clamped in the jig using West System 205 > resin, a little 405 filler powder, and the SLOW 206 hardener. For gluing > wood, you want the epoxy to cure slowly so it has a chance to really seep > into the wood grain. Lots of clamps! The spacer at the back end is just some > strips glued up into a block. The only design change I made was to extend > the grip end by 4 inches. The reason for that was because the hiking stick > on the original was mounted about an inch from the end, and I could not fit > my hand in front of it. I also filled in the narrowest part of the split > with thickened epoxy as I always found that narrow pointy gap a problem when > refinishing. I think I have some pictures of the process. I'll look tonight > and see if I can find them. I did consider making it from aluminum, but that > tiller is one of the few pieces of teak on the boat, and it matters to the > overall look of the boat. >>> >>> Bill Bina >>> >>> On 7/9/2014 1:10 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote: The tiller on my 27-V is on its last legsI'm going to replace it > this winter and want to know the best place to order a new one from. It's > design splits toward the aft end to hug the rudder and I don't see anything > like it on stock shops. So custom is going to be the order of the day. How > about composite? No more maintenance. Brent Driedger 27-5 Lake Winnipeg. Sent from my iPhone ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com . >>> >>> >>> ___ >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> >>> Email address: >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: >>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/
Re: Stus-List Atomic 4
Rob makes some good points but misses one fundamental difference between gas on boats and other uses (cars. lawn mowers etc) namely that any spill of gas is going to be contained in the hull of a boat. A spill / leak on a car etc will disperse. Once in the hull, unless evacuated by the blower, it will remain there possibly accumulating to dangerous levels. Yes I have propane on board, but I have solenoids. propane sniffers and in addition I turn off the gas at the valve on the tank after each use - even though it is kept in a vented locker. - and I store my BBQ gas tanks in the same locker when not in use -- Jonathan Indigo C&C 35III SOUTHPORT CT > On Jul 9, 2014, at 9:00, Burt Stratton via CnC-List > wrote: > > Bob, > > You bring up an excellent point about CO detectors. (not CO2). Any fired > device (stove, engine, generator, etc.) is capable of quickly generating > dangerous levels of carbon monoxide in a confined space such as the cabin of > a sailboat. It is very rare to find one properly installed on a boat. I am > not aware of any code requirements but there are battery operated combination > photo-electric / CO detectors on the market at very reasonable cost. I highly > recommend them. I had two in my 1954 38 foot wheeler. We ran the generator > frequently for long periods of time while on board. > > Skip > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert > Gallagher via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 12:27 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 > > I tried to stay out of this one, but the Irish whiskey has taken over. > > Atomic four engines are safe if properly maintained. Those of you who claim > otherwise are just blowing smoke. > > Those of you who are under the impression that a diesel upgrade saving you .5 > gallons per hour will pay off in a lifetime of a weekend sailor have lost the > plot or have not done the simple math. > > US$10,000.00 for a diesel upgrade, saving US$2.00 in fuel per hour of > motoring will take how long to pay for itself? (My old A4 burned about 3/4 > to 1.0 gallon an hour, my Yanmar turns 1/2 - 3/4 a gallon per hour.) > > For those of you so scared of gasoline engines, how many of you keep a car or > two, lawn mower, weed whacker, leaf blower, spare gas can, oil, paint, spray > cans, etc. ad nauseam in your attached garage? Really? > > How many of you keep that gas grill and/or spare propane tanks in that same > garage? Or sitting on the deck outside your bedroom window? > > How many of you have a smoke detector and CO2 detector on your boat? > > Those of you who throw stones better not have your kids napping in the Vberth > whilst you run that motor without CO2 detector(S). > > The key to ANY engine is maintaining it. Constantly. Regular periodic > maintenance and upgrades. Just like any other gas engine, you can't leave it > for a decade and expect your fuel lines, tank or carb not to develop problems. > > Install a quality petcock on the fuel lines and close it when you close the > through hulls at the end of the day Oh, you don't close your through > hulls?... Never mind. > > Rant complete, over and out. > > Rob > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Atomic 4
Bob, You bring up an excellent point about CO detectors. (not CO2). Any fired device (stove, engine, generator, etc.) is capable of quickly generating dangerous levels of carbon monoxide in a confined space such as the cabin of a sailboat. It is very rare to find one properly installed on a boat. I am not aware of any code requirements but there are battery operated combination photo-electric / CO detectors on the market at very reasonable cost. I highly recommend them. I had two in my 1954 38 foot wheeler. We ran the generator frequently for long periods of time while on board. Skip From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Gallagher via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 12:27 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 I tried to stay out of this one, but the Irish whiskey has taken over. Atomic four engines are safe if properly maintained. Those of you who claim otherwise are just blowing smoke. Those of you who are under the impression that a diesel upgrade saving you .5 gallons per hour will pay off in a lifetime of a weekend sailor have lost the plot or have not done the simple math. US$10,000.00 for a diesel upgrade, saving US$2.00 in fuel per hour of motoring will take how long to pay for itself? (My old A4 burned about 3/4 to 1.0 gallon an hour, my Yanmar turns 1/2 - 3/4 a gallon per hour.) For those of you so scared of gasoline engines, how many of you keep a car or two, lawn mower, weed whacker, leaf blower, spare gas can, oil, paint, spray cans, etc. ad nauseam in your attached garage? Really? How many of you keep that gas grill and/or spare propane tanks in that same garage? Or sitting on the deck outside your bedroom window? How many of you have a smoke detector and CO2 detector on your boat? Those of you who throw stones better not have your kids napping in the Vberth whilst you run that motor without CO2 detector(S). The key to ANY engine is maintaining it. Constantly. Regular periodic maintenance and upgrades. Just like any other gas engine, you can't leave it for a decade and expect your fuel lines, tank or carb not to develop problems. Install a quality petcock on the fuel lines and close it when you close the through hulls at the end of the day Oh, you don't close your through hulls?... Never mind. Rant complete, over and out. Rob ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tiller
Related sort of... I just restored my tiller but I have a hiking stick attached with a handle on it (as opposed to a golf stick) I have never used a hiking stick but this looks more comfortable than the golf stick version. It is pretty beat up so I thought I'd look into replacing it but have found only a couple options. Spinlock seems to own the market and $200 is about the minimum I found. Is that what I am looking at to replace this? Should I look at a different type? Suggestions are welcome. Skip 1974 C&C 33 3/4 tonner Portsmouth, RI -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Burton via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 8:04 AM To: Brent Driedger; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Tiller Don't overlook your natural resources; a couple of hockey sticks glued together make a fine tiller. Sans blades, of course. Andy C&C 40 Peregrine Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 > On Jul 9, 2014, at 7:38, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote: > > Hi Bill this is likely the route I will go. One of my crew is a fine woodwork carpenter. I've approached him already. > I cant do anything with the old one. It was rough 6 years ago when I bought the boat, so much so th PO Had an aluminum reinforcement made for it, kind of a frame that takes the majority of the load from the weakest area of the tiller. Even though the ends have rotted, this bracket has allowed me to run it further than. I'm comfortable with. > > Brent Driedger > 27-5 > Lake Winnipeg. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jul 9, 2014, at 5:09 AM, Bill Bina via CnC-List wrote: >> >> When mine got damaged by being twisted with great force, I did quite a bit of asking around at places that advertise that they can make replacements for any tiller. None would do it. So I did it myself. Bought some teak and sliced it into 3/8" thick strips. Built a jig to form the shape and laminated the 4 strips clamped in the jig using West System 205 resin, a little 405 filler powder, and the SLOW 206 hardener. For gluing wood, you want the epoxy to cure slowly so it has a chance to really seep into the wood grain. Lots of clamps! The spacer at the back end is just some strips glued up into a block. The only design change I made was to extend the grip end by 4 inches. The reason for that was because the hiking stick on the original was mounted about an inch from the end, and I could not fit my hand in front of it. I also filled in the narrowest part of the split with thickened epoxy as I always found that narrow pointy gap a problem when refinishing. I think I have some pictures of the process. I'll look tonight and see if I can find them. I did consider making it from aluminum, but that tiller is one of the few pieces of teak on the boat, and it matters to the overall look of the boat. >> >> Bill Bina >> >> >>> On 7/9/2014 1:10 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote: >>> The tiller on my 27-V is on its last legsI'm going to replace it this winter and want to know the best place to order a new one from. It's design splits toward the aft end to hug the rudder and I don't see anything like it on stock shops. So custom is going to be the order of the day. How about composite? No more maintenance. >>> >>> Brent Driedger >>> 27-5 >>> Lake Winnipeg. >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> ___ >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> >>> Email address: >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: >>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >>> >>> . >> >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tiller
Don't overlook your natural resources; a couple of hockey sticks glued together make a fine tiller. Sans blades, of course. Andy C&C 40 Peregrine Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 > On Jul 9, 2014, at 7:38, Brent Driedger via CnC-List > wrote: > > Hi Bill this is likely the route I will go. One of my crew is a fine woodwork > carpenter. I've approached him already. > I cant do anything with the old one. It was rough 6 years ago when I bought > the boat, so much so th PO Had an aluminum reinforcement made for it, kind of > a frame that takes the majority of the load from the weakest area of the > tiller. Even though the ends have rotted, this bracket has allowed me to run > it further than. I'm comfortable with. > > Brent Driedger > 27-5 > Lake Winnipeg. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jul 9, 2014, at 5:09 AM, Bill Bina via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> When mine got damaged by being twisted with great force, I did quite a bit >> of asking around at places that advertise that they can make replacements >> for any tiller. None would do it. So I did it myself. Bought some teak and >> sliced it into 3/8" thick strips. Built a jig to form the shape and >> laminated the 4 strips clamped in the jig using West System 205 resin, a >> little 405 filler powder, and the SLOW 206 hardener. For gluing wood, you >> want the epoxy to cure slowly so it has a chance to really seep into the >> wood grain. Lots of clamps! The spacer at the back end is just some strips >> glued up into a block. The only design change I made was to extend the grip >> end by 4 inches. The reason for that was because the hiking stick on the >> original was mounted about an inch from the end, and I could not fit my hand >> in front of it. I also filled in the narrowest part of the split with >> thickened epoxy as I always found that narrow pointy gap a problem when >> refinishing. I think I have some picture s of the process. I'll look tonight and see if I can find them. I did consider making it from aluminum, but that tiller is one of the few pieces of teak on the boat, and it matters to the overall look of the boat. >> >> Bill Bina >> >> >>> On 7/9/2014 1:10 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote: >>> The tiller on my 27-V is on its last legsI'm going to replace it this >>> winter and want to know the best place to order a new one from. It's design >>> splits toward the aft end to hug the rudder and I don't see anything like >>> it on stock shops. So custom is going to be the order of the day. How about >>> composite? No more maintenance. >>> >>> Brent Driedger >>> 27-5 >>> Lake Winnipeg. >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> ___ >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> >>> Email address: >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of >>> page at: >>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >>> >>> . >> >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of >> page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tiller
Hi Bill this is likely the route I will go. One of my crew is a fine woodwork carpenter. I've approached him already. I cant do anything with the old one. It was rough 6 years ago when I bought the boat, so much so th PO Had an aluminum reinforcement made for it, kind of a frame that takes the majority of the load from the weakest area of the tiller. Even though the ends have rotted, this bracket has allowed me to run it further than. I'm comfortable with. Brent Driedger 27-5 Lake Winnipeg. Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 9, 2014, at 5:09 AM, Bill Bina via CnC-List > wrote: > > When mine got damaged by being twisted with great force, I did quite a bit of > asking around at places that advertise that they can make replacements for > any tiller. None would do it. So I did it myself. Bought some teak and sliced > it into 3/8" thick strips. Built a jig to form the shape and laminated the 4 > strips clamped in the jig using West System 205 resin, a little 405 filler > powder, and the SLOW 206 hardener. For gluing wood, you want the epoxy to > cure slowly so it has a chance to really seep into the wood grain. Lots of > clamps! The spacer at the back end is just some strips glued up into a block. > The only design change I made was to extend the grip end by 4 inches. The > reason for that was because the hiking stick on the original was mounted > about an inch from the end, and I could not fit my hand in front of it. I > also filled in the narrowest part of the split with thickened epoxy as I > always found that narrow pointy gap a problem when refinishing. I think I > have some pictures of the process. I'll look tonight and see if I can find them. I did consider making it from aluminum, but that tiller is one of the few pieces of teak on the boat, and it matters to the overall look of the boat. > > Bill Bina > > >> On 7/9/2014 1:10 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote: >> The tiller on my 27-V is on its last legsI'm going to replace it this >> winter and want to know the best place to order a new one from. It's design >> splits toward the aft end to hug the rudder and I don't see anything like it >> on stock shops. So custom is going to be the order of the day. How about >> composite? No more maintenance. >> >> Brent Driedger >> 27-5 >> Lake Winnipeg. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of >> page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> . > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List water toys for guests on sailboats
Chuck, Is that river still sick? http://www.chesapeakebay.net/blog/post/magothy_river_health_continues_to_be_poor_according_to_latest_report_card On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 12:32 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote: > Had another amazing weekend again on the Magothy River. The 20 to 30 knot > Northwest wind blew the the water out of the Chesapeake Bay to cause an > abnormal low tide, yet we still had enough water to leave the slip and > return to pick up/drop off passengers each day. Sweet! > Great sailing wind late Fri, 12 to 20 knots, fireworks all around the boat > 360 degrees for over an hour, but the biggest hit for the girls was getting > towed behind the boat on an inflatable raft. > > In the lighter stuff on Saturday 5 to 8 knots, my son and I were > considering the spinnaker, in a sock, but gave in to dragging crew behind > the boat on a fender on a line. Big hit! The girls wanted in. I had to > rig towlines to their blow up rafts. Amazingly, they worked, no problems > under power. Big smiles all round. The simple $6 blowup raft w a paddle > was a favorite at the dock and at anchor. > > Stopped looking for a standup paddle board for my wife. Now I'm looking > for a simple boogie board to tow behind or something suitable for towing > two persons at 7 to 8 knots sailing speed. Any suggestions? > > Chuck > Resolute > 1990 C&C 34R > Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md > > -- > *From: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" > *To: *"Joel Aronson" , "CNC boat owners, > cnc-list" > *Sent: *Tuesday, July 8, 2014 9:37:20 PM > *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question > > Joel, it sounds like we have the same heater and I think we have the same > engine (3GMF) - I get very hot water in half an hour of engine running or > less. It is too hot to wash dishes in without adding cold so you can > actually put your hands in - however hot that is (and my cold water is cold > - from a tank under the starboard settee). > > You may have scale issues, although eventually your water tank should get > hot anyway, but maybe check for a mixing valve. Could it be a thermostat > that's stuck open causing the engine to run cool?? > > Tim > > Mojito > C&C 35-3 > Branford, CT > > > On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 9:01 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Jake, >> >> Probably the same one. Guess I'll be flushing mine out. The drain has a >> hose thread on it so I can probably back flush it. You may not want to >> know what comes out. Even on mine the cold water gets heated when the >> engine is running. >> >> Joel >> >> >> On Tuesday, July 8, 2014, Bill Bina via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >>> I once troubleshot a home boiler with an integral domestic hot water >>> coil. The water coming out of the taps never got more than warm. Turned out >>> there was a "balance pipe" between the cold water input to the boiler and >>> the domestic hot water output. In the middle of that pipe was a gate valve >>> that LOOKED just fine. No signs of even slight seepage from the stem. Only >>> problem was that after 30 years, the gate was no longer there. It had >>> corroded away, so no matter how tight you thought it was shut, it was >>> always effectively wide open. I replaced it with a ball valve. >>> >>> Bill Bina >>> >>> On 7/8/2014 7:49 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote: >>> >>> Joel, >>> >>> >>> >>> Not sure what heater I have. It's old, round, and white with a black >>> top. It gets scalding hot after 20-30 of running time. My problem is that >>> I get hot water out of both the hot and cold faucets. Something isn't >>> plumbed right, I think. >>> >>> >>> >>> Jake >>> >>> >>> >> >> -- >> Joel >> 301 541 8551 >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of >> page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > -- "All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible." T. E. Lawrence . ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-
Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question
"The danger zone for most bacteria is 40 degrees F to 140 degrees F" So these same bacteria will also survive and maybe thrive in the boat's fresh water tanks too.we clean and soak the tanks and lines with hypochlorite solution at the start of every season and treat added water with hypochlorite (Javex) but tank water is used only for bathing and washing dishes.only bottled water from home for drinking (coffee, tea etc.), cooking and teeth cleaning -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina via CnC-List Sent: July 8, 2014 7:09 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question Water from a hot water heater is not considered 'potable'. It should not be used for cooking or drinking. The reason is this. The danger zone for most bacteria is 40 degrees F to 140 degrees F. There are several harmful bacteria that can live in your water heater, including legionella, if the temperature is maintained below 140 degrees F. The danger increases with less frequent use of the heater, meaning that freshly treated water is not being introduced regularly to kill or knock down these bacterial populations. The bacteria can be introduced several ways; when installing any new water line, breach in city main, native to well water, new water heater, etc. Bill Bina On 7/8/2014 4:45 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote: > All, > > I've got a Raritan heater. When I run my Yanmar 30GM the hot water > out of the tap is certainly cooler than I would get from my home water > heater. When used to make instant coffee the coffee can be drunk > right away without cooling. > > How hot should the water get? > Do I need to flush the water heater? > > -- > Joel ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/7808 - Release Date: 07/06/14 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tiller
When mine got damaged by being twisted with great force, I did quite a bit of asking around at places that advertise that they can make replacements for any tiller. None would do it. So I did it myself. Bought some teak and sliced it into 3/8" thick strips. Built a jig to form the shape and laminated the 4 strips clamped in the jig using West System 205 resin, a little 405 filler powder, and the SLOW 206 hardener. For gluing wood, you want the epoxy to cure slowly so it has a chance to really seep into the wood grain. Lots of clamps! The spacer at the back end is just some strips glued up into a block. The only design change I made was to extend the grip end by 4 inches. The reason for that was because the hiking stick on the original was mounted about an inch from the end, and I could not fit my hand in front of it. I also filled in the narrowest part of the split with thickened epoxy as I always found that narrow pointy gap a problem when refinishing. I think I have some pictures of the process. I'll look tonight and see if I can find them. I did consider making it from aluminum, but that tiller is one of the few pieces of teak on the boat, and it matters to the overall look of the boat. Bill Bina On 7/9/2014 1:10 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote: The tiller on my 27-V is on its last legsI'm going to replace it this winter and want to know the best place to order a new one from. It's design splits toward the aft end to hug the rudder and I don't see anything like it on stock shops. So custom is going to be the order of the day. How about composite? No more maintenance. Brent Driedger 27-5 Lake Winnipeg. Sent from my iPhone ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com . ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
