Re: Stus-List hypalon adhesive

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I have the same question except I have a PVC zodiac. I am getting small
leaks at the lower port and starboard transom lower corners. I have an
inflated floor so it mainly an annoyance, but would love to hear a cheap
fix.

Seems like single ply membrane roofing is pretty much the same PVC and they
have ready made patches for roof penetrations, etc. (Will anybody see this
since it's after an awkward digest reply above?)

On Wed, May 25, 2016, 4:30 PM William Walker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> looking at adhesive to repair Achilles hypalon dinghy, hate to pay boat
> prices.  advice sought. generic polychlorprolene adhesive?
> Bill Walker
> Evening Star
> CnC  36
> Pentwater, Mi.
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> --
> On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 Dreuge via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> I agree, I use a good mechanical connection (ancor like crimps) everywhere
> except on the battery lugs(I’m talking large gauge wire).
>
>
>
> ABYC actually has an exception to the  “shall not solder rule”
>
>
> *From ABYC E-11*
>
> 11.14.5.7 Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in
> any circuit. If soldered, the connection shall be so located or supported
> as to minimize flexing of the conductor where the solder changes the
> flexible conductor into a solid conductor.
>
> EXCEPTION: Battery lugs with a solder contact length of not less than 1.5
> times the diameter of the conductor.
>
>
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
> On May 25, 2016, at 2:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Date: Wed, 25 May 2016 11:31:34 -0500
> From: Frederick G Street 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Posts
> Message-ID: <233f060c-fbb9-44ae-a6a2-dcab1053e...@postaudio.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> ABYC strictly prohibits solder as the sole means of connecting terminal to
> wire; you absolutely need to use a good mechanical connection.  Solder
> stiffens the wire at the joint, making it susceptible to failure due to
> vibration; and a wire under load can heat to the point that the solder will
> soften, which will also cause failure.
>
> A properly-made crimp is the best way to make a safe connection.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Simrad WP30 just turns to starboard

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Andrew,

I had this problem in an Wagner *50 autopilot 
many years ago. It was corrosion on the main 
driver circuit board at one of the large transistors.


My recommendation is to take apart and clean as 
much as possible your control head circuitry, 
using Fred approved cleaning methodology yada yada :)


Reassemble and hope for the best.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 05:57 PM 25/05/2016, you wrote:

Hey all -

I’ve got a Simrad WP30 that only seems to like 
steering to starboard. After following the 
instructions in 
the 
manual for holding a course it does nothing 
except make many small adjustments to starboard, 
at which point the boat just goes in circles. 
The PO said he thought it had worked at one 
point, but never used it. The manual isn’t 
helpful at all, and 
these 
posts 
from Cruisers Forum don’t seem to offer up any solutions.


Is there any hope for my unit, or should I be 
looking for another? I’m hoping to do more 
singlehanded sailing later this year and I’d 
really like to have an autopilot for longer 
passages. The WP30 is exactly the level of 
functionality I’m looking for - just something 
that can hold a course and tack. Sub $500 would 
be awesome, I assume at that price I’m going 
to be looking for a used unit. Any suggestions?


--
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations 
of our members. If you like what we do, please 
help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Simrad WP30 just turns to starboard

[Sailnomad via CnC-List]

The first thing I would check is to make sure that the compass is
operational and there is no metal close to it
Ahmet
Tabasco, C 25
Waterdancer, Irwin 43 CC
Winthrop, MA

On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 11:11 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Andrew,
>
> One other thing to try.  Have you tried using the port/starboard buttons
> to operate it manually?  Perhaps hold the wheel and see if the belt is
> slipping when you press the buttons.
>
> Also, a couple of the guide wheels could be worn or loose but I don't see
> that causing a problem in one direction only.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 7:57 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hey all -
>>
>> I’ve got a Simrad WP30 that only seems to like steering to starboard.
>> After following the instructions in the manual
>> 
>>  for
>> holding a course it does nothing except make many small adjustments to
>> starboard, at which point the boat just goes in circles. The PO said he
>> thought it had worked at one point, but never used it. The manual isn’t
>> helpful at all, and these
>> 
>> posts
>>  
>> from
>> Cruisers Forum don’t seem to offer up any solutions.
>>
>> Is there any hope for my unit, or should I be looking for another? I’m
>> hoping to do more singlehanded sailing later this year and I’d really like
>> to have an autopilot for longer passages. The WP30 is exactly the level of
>> functionality I’m looking for - just something that can hold a course and
>> tack. Sub $500 would be awesome, I assume at that price I’m going to be
>> looking for a used unit. Any suggestions?
>>
>> --
>> Andrew Means
>> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
>> Seattle, WA
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Simrad WP30 just turns to starboard

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Andrew,

One other thing to try.  Have you tried using the port/starboard buttons to
operate it manually?  Perhaps hold the wheel and see if the belt is
slipping when you press the buttons.

Also, a couple of the guide wheels could be worn or loose but I don't see
that causing a problem in one direction only.

Dennis C.

On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 7:57 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey all -
>
> I’ve got a Simrad WP30 that only seems to like steering to starboard.
> After following the instructions in the manual
> 
>  for
> holding a course it does nothing except make many small adjustments to
> starboard, at which point the boat just goes in circles. The PO said he
> thought it had worked at one point, but never used it. The manual isn’t
> helpful at all, and these
> 
> posts
>  
> from
> Cruisers Forum don’t seem to offer up any solutions.
>
> Is there any hope for my unit, or should I be looking for another? I’m
> hoping to do more singlehanded sailing later this year and I’d really like
> to have an autopilot for longer passages. The WP30 is exactly the level of
> functionality I’m looking for - just something that can hold a course and
> tack. Sub $500 would be awesome, I assume at that price I’m going to be
> looking for a used unit. Any suggestions?
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Simrad WP30 just turns to starboard

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I have a WP30 but have never seen that issue.  Mine has worked well for 15
years.  Wish they still made them.

Like Rick said, it may be a slipping belt.  You can find replacement belts
by Googling but some of the candidates work poorly.  The *ONLY *one that
really works well is a
Gates *AT5*-825-10.  It's a common timing belt.

Replace the belt and see if that helps.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 7:57 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey all -
>
> I’ve got a Simrad WP30 that only seems to like steering to starboard.
> After following the instructions in the manual
> 
>  for
> holding a course it does nothing except make many small adjustments to
> starboard, at which point the boat just goes in circles. The PO said he
> thought it had worked at one point, but never used it. The manual isn’t
> helpful at all, and these
> 
> posts
>  
> from
> Cruisers Forum don’t seem to offer up any solutions.
>
> Is there any hope for my unit, or should I be looking for another? I’m
> hoping to do more singlehanded sailing later this year and I’d really like
> to have an autopilot for longer passages. The WP30 is exactly the level of
> functionality I’m looking for - just something that can hold a course and
> tack. Sub $500 would be awesome, I assume at that price I’m going to be
> looking for a used unit. Any suggestions?
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dropping the Rudder

[Lee via CnC-List]

Graham,I am a fellow owner of  a 35 -3 and have potential problems with my 
rudder also. Iwould be very
pleased to have any pictures you have of your rudder interior. Thanks in 
advance; Lee.
 Lee Christiansen 1987 c 35 -3 c/b Blue Point NY
-Original Message-
From: Graham Collins via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Graham Collins 
Sent: Wed, May 25, 2016 10:10 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dropping the Rudder



Hi Chris

You say re-core it, do you intend to replace all the foam (and  new skins), 
or do the cut open, scoop out saturated foam, refill?

I can shoot you some pics of my rudder interior if you want.

Where in Halifax are you?


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11
BBYC / Waeg - Halifax, NS


On 2016-05-25 9:57 AM, Christian  Tirtirau via CnC-List wrote:


  
I'm planning to drop the rudder on my 37 and re-core it with foam, and was 
wondering what I should look for and expect when doing this operation? What are 
the steps involved and what challenges have other listers encountered?

Chris
C 37 Northern Light
Halifax


Sent from my iPad


  

On May 24, 2016, at 11:19 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
   cnc-list@cnc-list.com

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than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (Sam Wheeler)
  2. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Kevin Driscoll)
  3. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (randy.staff...@comcast.net)
  4. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (Sam Wheeler)
  5. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Jake Brodersen)
  6. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Dave)


--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 15:38:50 -0700
From: Sam Wheeler 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Foil Feed Funnel
Message-ID:
   

Re: Stus-List Simrad WP30 just turns to starboard

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

I believe the WP30 is a direct drive unit (gears vs. belt) and I can hear the 
motor, so I’m pretty sure it’s not trying to adjust to port.

It also doesn’t have a rudder angle indicator (I think it’s completely 
self-contained unit that mounts on the pedestal). 

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA

On May 25, 2016 at 7:24:01 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List (cnc-list@cnc-list.com) 
wrote:

I have an even older Navico WP5000 on my 38, and had a similar problem a couple 
of years ago. It would track straight but drift to port – basically the wheel 
would turn when the pilot was adjusting to port but not when the adjustment was 
to starboard. Turned out that the belt was worn and slipping in one direction. 
A new belt and increasing the tension on the belt fixed my problem. YMMV.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Means 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2016 8:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Means 
Subject: Stus-List Simrad WP30 just turns to starboard

 

Hey all - 

 

I’ve got a Simrad WP30 that only seems to like steering to starboard. After 
following the instructions in the manual for holding a course it does nothing 
except make many small adjustments to starboard, at which point the boat just 
goes in circles. The PO said he thought it had worked at one point, but never 
used it. The manual isn’t helpful at all, and these posts from Cruisers Forum 
don’t seem to offer up any solutions.

 

Is there any hope for my unit, or should I be looking for another? I’m hoping 
to do more singlehanded sailing later this year and I’d really like to have an 
autopilot for longer passages. The WP30 is exactly the level of functionality 
I’m looking for - just something that can hold a course and tack. Sub $500 
would be awesome, I assume at that price I’m going to be looking for a used 
unit. Any suggestions? 

 

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I

Seattle, WA

___  

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!  
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Simrad WP30 just turns to starboard

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I have an even older Navico WP5000 on my 38, and had a similar problem a couple 
of years ago. It would track straight but drift to port – basically the wheel 
would turn when the pilot was adjusting to port but not when the adjustment was 
to starboard. Turned out that the belt was worn and slipping in one direction. 
A new belt and increasing the tension on the belt fixed my problem. YMMV.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Means 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2016 8:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Means 
Subject: Stus-List Simrad WP30 just turns to starboard

 

Hey all - 

 

I’ve got a Simrad WP30 that only seems to like steering to starboard. After 
following the instructions in  

 the manual for holding a course it does nothing except make many small 
adjustments to starboard, at which point the boat just goes in circles. The PO 
said he thought it had worked at one point, but never used it. The manual isn’t 
helpful at all, and these 
   
 
posts from Cruisers Forum don’t seem to offer up any solutions.

 

Is there any hope for my unit, or should I be looking for another? I’m hoping 
to do more singlehanded sailing later this year and I’d really like to have an 
autopilot for longer passages. The WP30 is exactly the level of functionality 
I’m looking for - just something that can hold a course and tack. Sub $500 
would be awesome, I assume at that price I’m going to be looking for a used 
unit. Any suggestions? 

 

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I

Seattle, WA

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Simrad WP30 just turns to starboard

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

The first thing I check when an autopilot goes wonky is the rudder angle 
indicator. It will often come unhooked from its tiller above the quadrant.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On May 25, 2016, at 20:57, Andrew Means via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hey all - 
> 
> I’ve got a Simrad WP30 that only seems to like steering to starboard. After 
> following the instructions in the manual for holding a course it does nothing 
> except make many small adjustments to starboard, at which point the boat just 
> goes in circles. The PO said he thought it had worked at one point, but never 
> used it. The manual isn’t helpful at all, and these posts from Cruisers Forum 
> don’t seem to offer up any solutions.
> 
> Is there any hope for my unit, or should I be looking for another? I’m hoping 
> to do more singlehanded sailing later this year and I’d really like to have 
> an autopilot for longer passages. The WP30 is exactly the level of 
> functionality I’m looking for - just something that can hold a course and 
> tack. Sub $500 would be awesome, I assume at that price I’m going to be 
> looking for a used unit. Any suggestions? 
> 
> -- 
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dropping the Rudder

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Chris

You say re-core it, do you intend to replace all the foam (and new 
skins), or do the cut open, scoop out saturated foam, refill?


I can shoot you some pics of my rudder interior if you want.

Where in Halifax are you?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11
BBYC / Waeg - Halifax, NS

On 2016-05-25 9:57 AM, Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List wrote:

I'm planning to drop the rudder on my 37 and re-core it with foam, and was 
wondering what I should look for and expect when doing this operation? What are 
the steps involved and what challenges have other listers encountered?

Chris
C 37 Northern Light
Halifax


Sent from my iPad


On May 24, 2016, at 11:19 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com

You can reach the person managing the list at
cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (Sam Wheeler)
   2. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Kevin Driscoll)
   3. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (randy.staff...@comcast.net)
   4. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (Sam Wheeler)
   5. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Jake Brodersen)
   6. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Dave)


--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 15:38:50 -0700
From: Sam Wheeler 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Foil Feed Funnel
Message-ID:

Stus-List Simrad WP30 just turns to starboard

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hey all - 

I’ve got a Simrad WP30 that only seems to like steering to starboard. After 
following the instructions in the manual for holding a course it does nothing 
except make many small adjustments to starboard, at which point the boat just 
goes in circles. The PO said he thought it had worked at one point, but never 
used it. The manual isn’t helpful at all, and these posts from Cruisers Forum 
don’t seem to offer up any solutions.

Is there any hope for my unit, or should I be looking for another? I’m hoping 
to do more singlehanded sailing later this year and I’d really like to have an 
autopilot for longer passages. The WP30 is exactly the level of functionality 
I’m looking for - just something that can hold a course and tack. Sub $500 
would be awesome, I assume at that price I’m going to be looking for a used 
unit. Any suggestions? 

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Spot tracker

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

>From many reviews Spot is not as good as inReach (Delorme). It is cheaper, but 
>the coverage is not as good and if I understand correctly, inReach offers a 
>bit more function.

 

I worked with a friend using the inReach to organise a search and rescue in 
Andes and it worked flawlessly. We were able to communicate with the local 
authorities and with him on the mountain.

 

Depending on what you want to use it for, consider the Explorer (almost 
self-contained device) or the cheaper one (SE?) which really requires a cell 
phone for the user interface (with an App (and connected using Bluetooth)).

 

As I said, Spot is cheaper, but you get what you pay for.

 

My $0.02 (CAD)

 

Marek

In Ottawa, ON

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2016 13:44
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Spot tracker

 

Thinking about offshore race coming up.  The race uses Kattack for race 
tracking.  Last time we did it we just used the app on an iPhone and it worked 
for most of the race except when we were out of cellphone range.  The app was 
free.

A couple of other races in my area also use Kattack.

 

REI.com has the Gen3 Spot on sale for $112 + free shipping.  As I understand 
it, the annual Spot fee is $150.  

Is it worth it to buy a Spot and pop for the $150 annual fee?  The Admiral 
could track Touche' when I'm doing coastal transits without her (not often).

BTW, Touche' has DSC, MMSI, etc. so I don't need the Spot for distress calling, 
just race and transit tracking.  However, the Spot is apparently waterproof so 
it could go with an MOB or go in the dinghy.

Can also use it to track land trips.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Steve,

 

Don’t I recall this all started because you were changing over to golf cart 
batteries or diesel start batteries like Group 31s?

 

Couldn’t you take the batteries you bought back to the battery dealer and swap 
for batteries with the automotive lug terminals?

 

Golf cart batteries come with either style of terminal, and a Group 29 is the 
same as a Group 31, except with automotive posts.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2016 12:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stevan Plavsa 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

 

Hi,

 

Thanks for all the replies, I'll have to wade through some of those links you 
guys sent. Regarding the crimping of cables:

 

The battery cables are routed through the quarter berth, engine compartment, to 
the battery switch which is not easily accessible. So, I'll have to do some 
boat surgery just to get at the switch in order to disconnect the battery 
cables, then remove them from the boat which would take I estimate, about a 
day. No kidding. I relearn the lesson of budgeting time appropriately for boat 
work every time I think I'm going to get something done quickly, it's never 
quick and the list of things that really need to be done, is long. The past two 
weeks I worked six days each and managed to launch the boat, step the mast and 
get three garden beds in at the house. I am not a person who has a lot of time 
on his hands. 

 

I appreciate that you guys are recommending the "right way" to do this, but I'm 
comfortable with the adapters. They are threaded, and not going anywhere - just 
like the nuts that are recommended. I've always found the clamp style battery 
connectors to be secure and that's how the boat has always been for 36 
years now. The laws of physics haven't changed though I appreciate that 
standards have, and that's fine. One day I'de like to embark on the rewiring 
project but that's what it's going to be: a project, not a "spring prep" task. 
Ideally, those projects take place in the off-season so that they don't eat 
into precious sailing time.

 

The boat is 1.5 hours away. That's three hours of driving (on a good day, 
traffic around here is hell) just to fetch the cables never mind the amount of 
work involved in removing them. Sure, I could buy new ones, but I still have to 
remove the old and install the new. 

 

So, I'm looking for the adapters. I'll dig through all the helpful posts once I 
have time to breathe.

 

Thanks,

 

Steve

Suhana, C 32

Toronto

 

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Re: Stus-List hypalon adhesive

[William Walker via CnC-List]

looking at adhesive to repair Achilles hypalon dinghy, hate to pay boat prices. 
 advice sought. generic polychlorprolene adhesive?
Bill Walker
Evening Star
CnC  36
Pentwater, Mi.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 Dreuge via CnC-List  wrote:

I agree, I use a good mechanical connection (ancor like crimps) everywhere 
except on the battery lugs(I’m talking large gauge wire).  




ABYC actually has an exception to the  “shall not solder rule”



>From ABYC E-11








11.14.5.7 Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any 
circuit. If soldered, the connection shall be so located or supported as to 
minimize flexing of the conductor where the solder changes the flexible 
conductor into a solid conductor. 

EXCEPTION: Battery lugs with a solder contact length of not less than 1.5 times 
the diameter of the conductor. 











-
Paul E.

1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


On May 25, 2016, at 2:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:


Date: Wed, 25 May 2016 11:31:34 -0500
From: Frederick G Street 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Posts
Message-ID: <233f060c-fbb9-44ae-a6a2-dcab1053e...@postaudio.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

ABYC strictly prohibits solder as the sole means of connecting terminal to 
wire; you absolutely need to use a good mechanical connection.  Solder stiffens 
the wire at the joint, making it susceptible to failure due to vibration; and a 
wire under load can heat to the point that the solder will soften, which will 
also cause failure.

A properly-made crimp is the best way to make a safe connection.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


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Re: Stus-List Spot tracker

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The SPOT is also a $112 EPIRB.

 

OK. OK. Not really. 

 

But if you have to ditch and push the SOS button it sends your information to 
the same SAR site in Houston that gets your info from an EPIRB. They then call 
your emergency contact, and then the Coast Guard – or whatever the closest SAR 
agency is (if you’re in the Bahamas or Belize for example). Same process as an 
EPIRB. IIRC the SPOT continues to send out your location for 24 or 48 hours.

 

The annual fee used to be $99, but goes to $149 next month. The added feature 
you get for the money is tracking. Old system used to send a message with your 
location and a Google Map to a pre-established list of email and text addresses 
when you pushed the check in button. The new Tracking system will send your 
location at an interval you select to a website. You can give people the URL 
and they can track your progress. I think you can also have the track 
automatically sent to your Facebook page, etc.

 

BTW, if you use Active Captain, the SPOT will also keep your location updated 
on AC Locations if you turn that on. 

 

I got my SPOT gen 1 on closeout at West Marine for like $40 when the Gen 2 came 
out. I’ve used it to track deliveries and a couple of trips to Bermuda, and to 
let friends know where I was when I spent a couple of months in the Chesapeake 
a while ago.

 

I’m not sure I’ll actually use the Tracking feature, but I’m a happy SPOT user.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2016 1:44 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Spot tracker

 

Thinking about offshore race coming up.  The race uses Kattack for race 
tracking.  Last time we did it we just used the app on an iPhone and it worked 
for most of the race except when we were out of cellphone range.  The app was 
free.

A couple of other races in my area also use Kattack.

 

REI.com has the Gen3 Spot on sale for $112 + free shipping.  As I understand 
it, the annual Spot fee is $150.  

Is it worth it to buy a Spot and pop for the $150 annual fee?  The Admiral 
could track Touche' when I'm doing coastal transits without her (not often).

BTW, Touche' has DSC, MMSI, etc. so I don't need the Spot for distress calling, 
just race and transit tracking.  However, the Spot is apparently waterproof so 
it could go with an MOB or go in the dinghy.

Can also use it to track land trips.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Stus-List Yzl

[Mitchell's via CnC-List]

Sent from my mobileikycfyyuub look device. Dg

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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Why are you not bolting onto the stud?  What am I missing here?


On May 25, 2016, at 6:38 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the 
> business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was 
> assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand and 
> gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit the 
> trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery he had there (same guy I 
> purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go. 
> 
> When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of them was 
> stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter while I 
> stood and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why he went ahead and 
> wasted my time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me. 
> 
> I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some tin foil 
> around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. I'm willing 
> to use some conductive epoxy at this point to make it a permanent thing but I 
> would rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use for such a thing. I'm 
> all ears though I want this done with.
> 
> Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I could 
> find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which in and of 
> itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex and UPS so it'll be 
> 20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at the door. I can't stomach 
> that, on principle if nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a pair.
> 
> Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't have 
> it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.
> 
> Again, this is what I am after:
> https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130
> 
> Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping new 
> battery cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool and 
> removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Spot tracker

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Here's another vote for the inreach. Just got one and used it for a couple of 
deliveries up from the islands and found it very good. You can pay month to 
month and it gives your position every ten minutes. Plus you get two-way 
texting. It's a very good unit. I liked my Spot, too, but this is much better. 

Andy
C 40
Peregrine 

Andrew Burton
PO Box 632
Newport, RI 
USA 02840

+401 965 5260


> On May 25, 2016, at 15:18, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> We tested the Inreach last year and now require them for each boat on the 
> Coho Ho Ho Rally from Seattle to SF/SD.  They provide tracking data, and with 
> an Oceans weather package text weather info, and with a smart phone the 
> ability to send small text messages.  Hopefully we will have a better 
> responce this year.
> 
> 
>> On May 25, 2016, at 10:50 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Dennis,
>> 
>> Fred owns a Spot and can tell you about his experience.  For the 2014 A2B 
>> the RC went with Spots to save money.  Several boats, including ours, found 
>> them to be unreliable.  We had to remember to broadcast our postiion every 
>> hour so people didn't think we were stationary. The auto update did not 
>> work.  This year we are using YellowBricks. Fred's worked great for sending 
>> short texts.
>> 
>> I think the inReach now has weather capabilities.  I'd look at it too.
>> 
>> Joel
>> 
>>> On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 1:44 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Thinking about offshore race coming up.  The race uses Kattack for race 
>>> tracking.  Last time we did it we just used the app on an iPhone and it 
>>> worked for most of the race except when we were out of cellphone range.  
>>> The app was free.
>>> 
>>> A couple of other races in my area also use Kattack.
>>> 
>>> REI.com has the Gen3 Spot on sale for $112 + free shipping.  As I 
>>> understand it, the annual Spot fee is $150.  
>>> 
>>> Is it worth it to buy a Spot and pop for the $150 annual fee?  The Admiral 
>>> could track Touche' when I'm doing coastal transits without her (not often).
>>> 
>>> BTW, Touche' has DSC, MMSI, etc. so I don't need the Spot for distress 
>>> calling, just race and transit tracking.  However, the Spot is apparently 
>>> waterproof so it could go with an MOB or go in the dinghy.
>>> 
>>> Can also use it to track land trips.
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Joel 
>> 301 541 8551
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Spot tracker

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

We tested the Inreach last year and now require them for each boat on the Coho 
Ho Ho Rally from Seattle to SF/SD.  They provide tracking data, and with an 
Oceans weather package text weather info, and with a smart phone the ability to 
send small text messages.  Hopefully we will have a better responce this year.


On May 25, 2016, at 10:50 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Dennis,
> 
> Fred owns a Spot and can tell you about his experience.  For the 2014 A2B the 
> RC went with Spots to save money.  Several boats, including ours, found them 
> to be unreliable.  We had to remember to broadcast our postiion every hour so 
> people didn't think we were stationary. The auto update did not work.  This 
> year we are using YellowBricks. Fred's worked great for sending short texts.
> 
> I think the inReach now has weather capabilities.  I'd look at it too.
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 1:44 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Thinking about offshore race coming up.  The race uses Kattack for race 
> tracking.  Last time we did it we just used the app on an iPhone and it 
> worked for most of the race except when we were out of cellphone range.  The 
> app was free.
> 
> A couple of other races in my area also use Kattack.
> 
> REI.com has the Gen3 Spot on sale for $112 + free shipping.  As I understand 
> it, the annual Spot fee is $150.  
> 
> Is it worth it to buy a Spot and pop for the $150 annual fee?  The Admiral 
> could track Touche' when I'm doing coastal transits without her (not often).
> 
> BTW, Touche' has DSC, MMSI, etc. so I don't need the Spot for distress 
> calling, just race and transit tracking.  However, the Spot is apparently 
> waterproof so it could go with an MOB or go in the dinghy.
> 
> Can also use it to track land trips.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Spot tracker

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Agree about Spot reliability. Oregon Offshore Race uses them every year and
every year boats drop off, fail to update, etc etc. We also have to
remember to reset them every 24hrs or they will automatically shut off.
But, I have heard that they are improving FWIW.

Dennis, if you have AIS your wife could track you on Marine traffic.
http://www.marinetraffic.com/

I wouldn't bother spending money on Spot.

On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 10:51 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis,
>
> Fred owns a Spot and can tell you about his experience.  For the 2014 A2B
> the RC went with Spots to save money.  Several boats, including ours, found
> them to be unreliable.  We had to remember to broadcast our postiion every
> hour so people didn't think we were stationary. The auto update did not
> work.  This year we are using YellowBricks. Fred's worked great for sending
> short texts.
>
> I think the inReach now has weather capabilities.  I'd look at it too.
>
> Joel
>
> On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 1:44 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thinking about offshore race coming up.  The race uses Kattack for race
>> tracking.  Last time we did it we just used the app on an iPhone and it
>> worked for most of the race except when we were out of cellphone range.
>> The app was free.
>>
>> A couple of other races in my area also use Kattack.
>>
>> REI.com has the Gen3 Spot on sale for $112 + free shipping.  As I
>> understand it, the annual Spot fee is $150.
>>
>> Is it worth it to buy a Spot and pop for the $150 annual fee?  The
>> Admiral could track Touche' when I'm doing coastal transits without her
>> (not often).
>>
>> BTW, Touche' has DSC, MMSI, etc. so I don't need the Spot for distress
>> calling, just race and transit tracking.  However, the Spot is apparently
>> waterproof so it could go with an MOB or go in the dinghy.
>>
>> Can also use it to track land trips.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Stus-List Grunert holding plates

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I have a collection of grunert holding plates sitting in my garage.  Is it
worthwhile to try to connect the plates to new compressors?

Bacon won't take them on consignment, which should tell me the answer.

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I agree, I use a good mechanical connection (ancor like crimps) everywhere 
except on the battery lugs(I’m talking large gauge wire).  



ABYC actually has an exception to the  “shall not solder rule”


From ABYC E-11

11.14.5.7 Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any 
circuit. If soldered, the connection shall be so located or supported as to 
minimize flexing of the conductor where the solder changes the flexible 
conductor into a solid conductor.

EXCEPTION: Battery lugs with a solder contact length of not less than 1.5 times 
the diameter of the conductor. 





-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On May 25, 2016, at 2:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 25 May 2016 11:31:34 -0500
> From: Frederick G Street >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Posts
> Message-ID: <233f060c-fbb9-44ae-a6a2-dcab1053e...@postaudio.net 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> ABYC strictly prohibits solder as the sole means of connecting terminal to 
> wire; you absolutely need to use a good mechanical connection.  Solder 
> stiffens the wire at the joint, making it susceptible to failure due to 
> vibration; and a wire under load can heat to the point that the solder will 
> soften, which will also cause failure.
> 
> A properly-made crimp is the best way to make a safe connection.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

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Stus-List C Nutshell dinghy

[Kimon Tzaratzouris via CnC-List]

Hello,I bought a sailboat dinghy to sail in the small lakes around us. It is a 
13' C Yachts serial # NS12771N. I was told the model is "Nutshell". I cannot 
find any information on it and was wondering if anyone has heard or knows 
anything about it. It is light (about 200 lbs. I think) and a very fast little 
sailboat. Any info would be appreciated,Thanks, Kimon___

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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Steve,

 

Check here,  http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=664

They have both sizes (3/8” & 5/16”) and a Mississauga office.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: May-25-16 13:32
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stevan Plavsa
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

 

Hi,

 

Thanks for all the replies, I'll have to wade through some of those links you 
guys sent. Regarding the crimping of cables:

 

The battery cables are routed through the quarter berth, engine compartment, to 
the battery switch which is not easily accessible. So, I'll have to do some 
boat surgery just to get at the switch in order to disconnect the battery 
cables, then remove them from the boat which would take I estimate, about a 
day. No kidding. I relearn the lesson of budgeting time appropriately for boat 
work every time I think I'm going to get something done quickly, it's never 
quick and the list of things that really need to be done, is long. The past two 
weeks I worked six days each and managed to launch the boat, step the mast and 
get three garden beds in at the house. I am not a person who has a lot of time 
on his hands. 

 

I appreciate that you guys are recommending the "right way" to do this, but I'm 
comfortable with the adapters. They are threaded, and not going anywhere - just 
like the nuts that are recommended. I've always found the clamp style battery 
connectors to be secure and that's how the boat has always been for 36 
years now. The laws of physics haven't changed though I appreciate that 
standards have, and that's fine. One day I'de like to embark on the rewiring 
project but that's what it's going to be: a project, not a "spring prep" task. 
Ideally, those projects take place in the off-season so that they don't eat 
into precious sailing time.

 

The boat is 1.5 hours away. That's three hours of driving (on a good day, 
traffic around here is hell) just to fetch the cables never mind the amount of 
work involved in removing them. Sure, I could buy new ones, but I still have to 
remove the old and install the new. 

 

So, I'm looking for the adapters. I'll dig through all the helpful posts once I 
have time to breathe.

 

Thanks,

 

Steve

Suhana, C 32

Toronto

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7598 / Virus Database: 4568/12292 - Release Date: 05/25/16

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Re: Stus-List Spot tracker

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Dennis,

Fred owns a Spot and can tell you about his experience.  For the 2014 A2B
the RC went with Spots to save money.  Several boats, including ours, found
them to be unreliable.  We had to remember to broadcast our postiion every
hour so people didn't think we were stationary. The auto update did not
work.  This year we are using YellowBricks. Fred's worked great for sending
short texts.

I think the inReach now has weather capabilities.  I'd look at it too.

Joel

On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 1:44 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thinking about offshore race coming up.  The race uses Kattack for race
> tracking.  Last time we did it we just used the app on an iPhone and it
> worked for most of the race except when we were out of cellphone range.
> The app was free.
>
> A couple of other races in my area also use Kattack.
>
> REI.com has the Gen3 Spot on sale for $112 + free shipping.  As I
> understand it, the annual Spot fee is $150.
>
> Is it worth it to buy a Spot and pop for the $150 annual fee?  The Admiral
> could track Touche' when I'm doing coastal transits without her (not often).
>
> BTW, Touche' has DSC, MMSI, etc. so I don't need the Spot for distress
> calling, just race and transit tracking.  However, the Spot is apparently
> waterproof so it could go with an MOB or go in the dinghy.
>
> Can also use it to track land trips.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Spot tracker

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Thinking about offshore race coming up.  The race uses Kattack for race
tracking.  Last time we did it we just used the app on an iPhone and it
worked for most of the race except when we were out of cellphone range.
The app was free.

A couple of other races in my area also use Kattack.

REI.com has the Gen3 Spot on sale for $112 + free shipping.  As I
understand it, the annual Spot fee is $150.

Is it worth it to buy a Spot and pop for the $150 annual fee?  The Admiral
could track Touche' when I'm doing coastal transits without her (not often).

BTW, Touche' has DSC, MMSI, etc. so I don't need the Spot for distress
calling, just race and transit tracking.  However, the Spot is apparently
waterproof so it could go with an MOB or go in the dinghy.

Can also use it to track land trips.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Fred, you are committed!
Sometimes I think I should be committed .. in that other less positive way.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

You’re lucky; my boat is 3-1/2 hours away…   :^)  I’ll be heading there later 
today, to launch tomorrow.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 25, 2016, at 11:32 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The boat is 1.5 hours away. That's three hours of driving (on a good day, 
> traffic around here is hell) just to fetch the cables never mind the amount 
> of work involved in removing them.

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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Hi,

Thanks for all the replies, I'll have to wade through some of those links
you guys sent. Regarding the crimping of cables:

The battery cables are routed through the quarter berth, engine
compartment, to the battery switch which is not easily accessible. So, I'll
have to do some boat surgery just to get at the switch in order to
disconnect the battery cables, then remove them from the boat which would
take I estimate, about a day. No kidding. I relearn the lesson of budgeting
time appropriately for boat work every time I think I'm going to get
something done quickly, it's never quick and the list of things that really
need to be done, is long. The past two weeks I worked six days each and
managed to launch the boat, step the mast and get three garden beds in at
the house. I am not a person who has a lot of time on his hands.

I appreciate that you guys are recommending the "right way" to do this, but
I'm comfortable with the adapters. They are threaded, and not going
anywhere - just like the nuts that are recommended. I've always found the
clamp style battery connectors to be secure and that's how the boat has
always been for 36 years now. The laws of physics haven't changed
though I appreciate that standards have, and that's fine. One day I'de like
to embark on the rewiring project but that's what it's going to be: a
project, not a "spring prep" task. Ideally, those projects take place in
the off-season so that they don't eat into precious sailing time.

The boat is *1.5 hours away*. That's three hours of driving (on a good day,
traffic around here is hell) just to fetch the cables never mind the amount
of work involved in removing them. Sure, I could buy new ones, but I still
have to remove the old and install the new.

So, I'm looking for the adapters. I'll dig through all the helpful posts
once I have time to breathe.

Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

ABYC strictly prohibits solder as the sole means of connecting terminal to 
wire; you absolutely need to use a good mechanical connection.  Solder stiffens 
the wire at the joint, making it susceptible to failure due to vibration; and a 
wire under load can heat to the point that the solder will soften, which will 
also cause failure.

A properly-made crimp is the best way to make a safe connection.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 25, 2016, at 10:58 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> On the same note, unless you have a professional crimper(which Fred likely 
> has), the end connectors need a good solder connection.  I have had great 
> results using the solder slug pellets sold at Gregg’s or also at Waytek. 
> 
> Here is a video describing the use of slug pellets (they are easy to use):
>   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXDkNMDDrBs 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

My guess/assumption is that any battery cables on a boat that have the 
old style automotive lead clamps are old cables that may not even be 
proper marine tinned cables. Lots of wiring on old boats, including C, 
was not tinned wire and needs to be replaced, even if it hasn't 
failed... yet.


Bill Bina


On 5/25/2016 11:58 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List wrote:

Steve,

I agree with Fred.  Rather than dealing with the clamping lug adapters 
and clamping lugs on you cables, it is much better to use proper sized 
eyelets lugs.  It may actually cost you less to convert the cables, 
and likely lead to less troubles down the road.  An other advantage is 
that one can easily add an affordable MRBF terminal fuse block right 
on the battery (ABYC compliant).





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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Steve,

I agree with Fred.  Rather than dealing with the clamping lug adapters and 
clamping lugs on you cables, it is much better to use proper sized eyelets 
lugs.  It may actually cost you less to convert the cables, and likely lead to 
less troubles down the road.  An other advantage is that one can easily add an 
affordable MRBF terminal fuse block right on the battery (ABYC compliant).  

On the same note, unless you have a professional crimper(which Fred likely 
has), the end connectors need a good solder connection.  I have had great 
results using the solder slug pellets sold at Gregg’s or also at Waytek. 

Here is a video describing the use of slug pellets (they are easy to use):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXDkNMDDrBs


Take a look at Gregg’s Marine Wire Supply.  They have good prices and 
selections and I think they will ship via postal mail.


Or at Waytek 

ring lugs
https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1427/Eyelets/=5-16-

lug pellets
https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1486/Solder/

MRBF
https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1495/Fuse-Holders/=MRBF




-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On May 25, 2016, at 9:58 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 25 May 2016 08:50:52 -0500
> From: Frederick G Street >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Posts
> Message-ID:  >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Steve ? if you don?t have any luck with the post adapters, by far the best 
> solution (even though it may be difficult) would be to have the correct ends 
> on the battery cables.  What size and length of cable are we talking about 
> here for the positive and negative runs?  I?d be happy to do the proper 
> crimps for you at no charge.
> 
> And whatever you do, do NOT use wing nuts, as mentioned before.  ABYC 
> requires you to use proper tools to tighten battery post nuts; I have yet to 
> see a proper tool for a wing nut?   :^)
> 
> ? Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On May 25, 2016, at 8:38 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>> 
>> Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the 
>> business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was 
>> assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand and 
>> gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit the 
>> trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery he had there (same guy I 
>> purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go. 
>> 
>> When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of them was 
>> stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter while I 
>> stood and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why he went ahead and 
>> wasted my time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me. 
>> 
>> I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some tin 
>> foil around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. I'm 
>> willing to use some conductive epoxy at this point to make it a permanent 
>> thing but I would rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use for such 
>> a thing. I'm all ears though I want this done with.
>> 
>> Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I could 
>> find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which in and of 
>> itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex and UPS so it'll 
>> be 20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at the door. I can't stomach 
>> that, on principle if nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a pair.
>> 
>> Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't have 
>> it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.
>> 
>> Again, this is what I am after:
>> https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> >  
>> >
>> 
>> Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping new 
>> battery cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool and 
>> removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C 32
>> Toronto

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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

These guys have a Canadian presence.

Here's your part:  http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=664

Here's the Canadian contact info:

Toll Free: 800–728–1742[image: Canadian flag]
E-mail: cdnsa...@quickcable.com

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 8:38 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the
> business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was
> assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand
> and gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit
> the trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery he had there (same guy I
> purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go.
>
> When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of them
> was stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter while
> I stood and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why he went ahead and
> wasted my time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me.
>
> I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some tin
> foil around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. I'm
> willing to use some conductive epoxy at this point to make it a permanent
> thing but I would rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use for such
> a thing. I'm all ears though I want this done with.
>
> Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I
> could find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which in
> and of itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex and UPS so
> it'll be 20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at the door. I can't
> stomach that, on principle if nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a
> pair.
>
> Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't have
> it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.
>
> Again, this is what I am after:
>
> https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130
>
> Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping new
> battery cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool and
> removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Steve,

The part you listed is a 3/8” adapter – but if that is the one you need, there 
are a number of Acklands Grainger locations in the GTA – and throughout 
Southern Ontario, have you checked with them?

Paul Fountain
Perception II
1985 C 33-II k/cb
Port Credit Yacht Club

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2016 9:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stevan Plavsa 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the 
business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was 
assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand and 
gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit the 
trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery he had there (same guy I 
purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go.

When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of them was 
stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter while I stood 
and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why he went ahead and wasted my 
time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me.

I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some tin foil 
around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. I'm willing to 
use some conductive epoxy at this point to make it a permanent thing but I 
would rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use for such a thing. I'm 
all ears though I want this done with.

Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I could 
find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which in and of 
itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex and UPS so it'll be 
20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at the door. I can't stomach that, 
on principle if nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a pair.

Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't have it! 
They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.

Again, this is what I am after:
https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130

Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping new battery 
cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool and removing the 
battery cables is a LOT of work.

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

NO type of adapter  or work-around is any more secure, reliable, or ABYC 
compliant, than a wing nut on a threaded stud. A regular nut tightened 
by a wrench on a threaded stud is even better. Old school automotive 
type post and clamp connections have never been terribly reliable, 
either. I think new cable ends, or new cables with the correct terminal 
rings, are in order if reliability is desired.


Bill Bina


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Re: Stus-List Dropping the Rudder

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Pics of the job when I had mine done.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On May 25, 2016 8:58 AM, "Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm planning to drop the rudder on my 37 and re-core it with foam, and was
> wondering what I should look for and expect when doing this operation? What
> are the steps involved and what challenges have other listers encountered?
>
> Chris
> C 37 Northern Light
> Halifax
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On May 24, 2016, at 11:19 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> >cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> >
> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> >http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> >cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> >
> > You can reach the person managing the list at
> >cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> >
> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> >
> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> >   1. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (Sam Wheeler)
> >   2. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Kevin Driscoll)
> >   3. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (randy.staff...@comcast.net)
> >   4. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (Sam Wheeler)
> >   5. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Jake Brodersen)
> >   6. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Dave)
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 15:38:50 -0700
> > From: Sam Wheeler 
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Foil Feed Funnel
> > Message-ID:
> >

Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[schiller via CnC-List]

Helicoil?  The 3/8 is a coarse thread (16 tpi).  I would assume that the 
5/16 is as well (18 tpi).  You should be able to pick up a thread repair 
kit at an auto parts store.


Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
Washed, waxed and waiting for a Tuesday launch

On 5/25/2016 9:38 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing 
the business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive 
(and I was assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used 
ones on hand and gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to 
make sure they fit the trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery 
he had there (same guy I purchased my batteries from) and I thought I 
was good to go.


When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of 
them was stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a 
batter while I stood and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why 
he went ahead and wasted my time knowing that he was wasting my time 
is just beyond me.


I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some 
tin foil around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. 
Sketchy. I'm willing to use some conductive epoxy at this point to 
make it a permanent thing but I would rather not. I also don't know 
which epoxy to use for such a thing. I'm all ears though I want this 
done with.


Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I 
could find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which 
in and of itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex 
and UPS so it'll be 20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at 
the door. I can't stomach that, on principle if nothing else. The 
adapters are typically $5 a pair.


Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't 
have it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.


Again, this is what I am after:
https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130

Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping 
new battery cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool 
and removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.


Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto



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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Steve — if you don’t have any luck with the post adapters, by far the best 
solution (even though it may be difficult) would be to have the correct ends on 
the battery cables.  What size and length of cable are we talking about here 
for the positive and negative runs?  I’d be happy to do the proper crimps for 
you at no charge.

And whatever you do, do NOT use wing nuts, as mentioned before.  ABYC requires 
you to use proper tools to tighten battery post nuts; I have yet to see a 
proper tool for a wing nut…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 25, 2016, at 8:38 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the 
> business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was 
> assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand and 
> gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit the 
> trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery he had there (same guy I 
> purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go. 
> 
> When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of them was 
> stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter while I 
> stood and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why he went ahead and 
> wasted my time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me. 
> 
> I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some tin foil 
> around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. I'm willing 
> to use some conductive epoxy at this point to make it a permanent thing but I 
> would rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use for such a thing. I'm 
> all ears though I want this done with.
> 
> Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I could 
> find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which in and of 
> itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex and UPS so it'll be 
> 20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at the door. I can't stomach 
> that, on principle if nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a pair.
> 
> Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't have 
> it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.
> 
> Again, this is what I am after:
> https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130
>  
> 
> 
> Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping new 
> battery cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool and 
> removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto

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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

Search for 'stud to post conversion ' at elecdirect.com in mississauga.
They'll ship it same day. I buy from them quite often.

Ed
On May 25, 2016 9:39 AM, "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the
> business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was
> assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand
> and gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit
> the trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery he had there (same guy I
> purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go.
>
> When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of them
> was stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter while
> I stood and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why he went ahead and
> wasted my time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me.
>
> I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some tin
> foil around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. I'm
> willing to use some conductive epoxy at this point to make it a permanent
> thing but I would rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use for such
> a thing. I'm all ears though I want this done with.
>
> Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I
> could find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which in
> and of itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex and UPS so
> it'll be 20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at the door. I can't
> stomach that, on principle if nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a
> pair.
>
> Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't have
> it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.
>
> Again, this is what I am after:
>
> https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130
>
> Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping new
> battery cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool and
> removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

look here:

http://excellence-peterbilt.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Catalogue-daccessoires-pour-batterie-Grote-2012.pdf

joel

On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 9:38 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the
> business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was
> assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand
> and gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit
> the trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery he had there (same guy I
> purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go.
>
> When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of them
> was stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter while
> I stood and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why he went ahead and
> wasted my time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me.
>
> I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some tin
> foil around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. I'm
> willing to use some conductive epoxy at this point to make it a permanent
> thing but I would rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use for such
> a thing. I'm all ears though I want this done with.
>
> Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I
> could find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which in
> and of itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex and UPS so
> it'll be 20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at the door. I can't
> stomach that, on principle if nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a
> pair.
>
> Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't have
> it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.
>
> Again, this is what I am after:
>
> https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130
>
> Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping new
> battery cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool and
> removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Maybe I'm missing something here but why don't you simply change the ends of 
your battery cables to work with the studs?

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On May 25, 2016, at 9:38 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the 
> business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was 
> assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand and 
> gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit the 
> trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery he had there (same guy I 
> purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go. 
> 
> When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of them was 
> stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter while I 
> stood and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why he went ahead and 
> wasted my time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me. 
> 
> I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some tin foil 
> around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. I'm willing 
> to use some conductive epoxy at this point to make it a permanent thing but I 
> would rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use for such a thing. I'm 
> all ears though I want this done with.
> 
> Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I could 
> find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which in and of 
> itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex and UPS so it'll be 
> 20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at the door. I can't stomach 
> that, on principle if nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a pair.
> 
> Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't have 
> it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.
> 
> Again, this is what I am after:
> https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130
> 
> Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping new 
> battery cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool and 
> removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the
business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was
assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand
and gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit
the trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery he had there (same guy I
purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go.

When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of them was
stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter while I
stood and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why he went ahead and
wasted my time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me.

I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some tin
foil around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. I'm
willing to use some conductive epoxy at this point to make it a permanent
thing but I would rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use for such
a thing. I'm all ears though I want this done with.

Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I
could find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which in
and of itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex and UPS so
it'll be 20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at the door. I can't
stomach that, on principle if nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a
pair.

Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't have
it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.

Again, this is what I am after:
https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130

Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping new
battery cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool and
removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Dropping the Rudder

[Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List]

I'm planning to drop the rudder on my 37 and re-core it with foam, and was 
wondering what I should look for and expect when doing this operation? What are 
the steps involved and what challenges have other listers encountered?

Chris
C 37 Northern Light
Halifax


Sent from my iPad

> On May 24, 2016, at 11:19 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (Sam Wheeler)
>   2. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Kevin Driscoll)
>   3. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (randy.staff...@comcast.net)
>   4. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (Sam Wheeler)
>   5. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Jake Brodersen)
>   6. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Dave)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 15:38:50 -0700
> From: Sam Wheeler 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Foil Feed Funnel
> Message-ID:
>