date:20160601

Well not everybody has any Butyl left in their joints to squeeze. I agree I
wouldn't use the self leveling unless as a last resort, which I believe
it's more or less the situation the original poster is in. Additionally,
the PLS40 is the one recommended in the article (did anybody RTFA;? I
imagine that warning is true of any polyurethane sealant. 3m 4200 has a
less explicit, though similar warning.

I value the scientific approach of Practical Sailor more than internet
forums in general, be it SA or C Additionally, searching the forum is a
pain in the ass. That is unless you have all day to sort through endless
replies that may or may not be helpful (like this one).

That said, I value much of the experience and help I find here!

Hope this forum doesn't go dark all of a sudden one day since only one
person hold the keys.

On Wed, Jun 1, 2016, 6:33 PM Lee Youngblood via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hum,
>
> I clicked on the Loctite link below, and it’s NOT recommended with butyl!
> WHAT?  I thought my hull/deck joint was put together with butyl, so it
> could be tightened up - only if leaking.  It’s lasted 32 years, so C got
> a lot right!  Not sure I’d want to risk/mess with that record. . .
>
> Remember folks lots of people have to reinvent the wheel, every Spring.
> It’s often good to check the archives and what’s worked in the past.
>
> Just checking, Lee
>
>
> Not Recommended For
>
>- Exterior applications when rain is expected before sealant reaches
>initial cure
>- Vertical surface repair (use on horizontal surfaces only)
>- Aircraft runway or tarmac use
>- Joint depths greater than 3/8' (9.5 mm) without the use of a backer
>rod. In joints deeper than 3/8' (9.5 mm) the sealant may bubble if applied
>too deep or if substrate is not absolutely dry
>- Contact with oil-based caulking compounds, butyl caulking compounds
>and silicone sealants(Uncured and cured)
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 1, 2016, at 9:57 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Agreed. I just like that someone has been testing the Loctite polyurethane
> 
> for the past 10 years, *above *and *below *the waterline. Quikcrete
> 
> and Loctite
> 
> are the same price point more or less. Take a look at the article. Good
> read.
>
> On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 9:32 AM S Thomas via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> The Quikrete product is intended for buildings.
>> Doesn't mean it won't work for other things.
>>
>>
>
>> http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Paint-D%C3%A9cor/Maintenance/Concrete-Sealer-Supp/Cement-Acc/Miscellaneous/300mL-Grey-Self-Leveling-Polyurethane-Sealant/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN/R-I2622729?Ntt=self+leveling
>>
>> Steve.
>>
>> Which one did you use Bettina? The article mentions Loctite PLS20, PLS
>> 40, and but no Quikcrete. Looks like Loctite has also come out with a
>> Marine version.
>>
>> Loctite Polyurethene here
>> 
>>
>> Practical Sailor Article here
>> 
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Kevin
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Fairing an elliptical rudder

2016-06-01 Thread Charles Nelson via CnC-List

Other than original build files or copies from the Kingston Museum, you might 
try Computer Keels for the proper NACA chord shapes for various vertical depths 
of your rudder. If the fore-aft distance is not much different from top to 
bottom of your rudder, a single template at ~ $75 is all you should need. They 
supplied templates for my centerboard trunk which my yard used to do the 
fairing over 2 separate haul-outs. Did the forward half of the trunk 1st and 
the next year did the aft section. Lots of lead removed/fiberglass added but 
Water Phantom is faster and now reaches the same speed on either tack--a good 
thing compared to before the fairing. YMMV since the rudder is a relatively 
minor (compared to the keel) perturbation to the underwater lift/flow.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C 36XL/kcb

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 1, 2016, at 9:55 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> I'm interested in templating and fairing my elliptical rudder on my 37+. 
> Where might I find information on the lines of this rudder?
> 
> Cheers, Al
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2

Neil,

All the mast base turning blocks were added by me.  There are five.  Three
port; two starboard.  Keeping the load on the mast is exactly why I
installed them.

I had Guido at Garhauer make them.  I think they are the same or similar to
ones Garhauer makes for Catalina.  The cost less than half the price of a
comparable Shaefer block.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 8:16 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis,
>
> Are those turning blocks on the mast something you added, or do you think
> the forward two, at least, were original?  Weatherly has none of those,
> just deck-mounted stand-up turning blocks -  what you have keeps a large
> part of the load on the mast, much nicer.
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
> /drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsSlRKb1pDdHdoSW8
> 
>
>
> Note the metal plate behind the 3rd block.  That used to have one of these:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsTzNGazZZampHX00
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Fairing an elliptical rudder

2016-06-01 Thread Alan Liles via CnC-List

Hi,
I'm interested in templating and fairing my elliptical rudder on my 37+. Where 
might I find information on the lines of this rudder?

Cheers, Al


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Re: Stus-List Spreader Boots

2016-06-01 Thread Jake Brodersen via CnC-List

Tom,

 

I bought a bunch of leather at the boat show a couple years ago.   I cut it
and sew my own spreader boots.  I had the mast down two years ago and
installed them.  No problems since.  No one can see the workmanship, as
they're 20' in the air.  Problem solved!  Money saved!

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Alessi via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 1, 2016 10:13
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Alessi 
Subject: Stus-List Spreader Boots

 

Hello all,

Any recommendations on spreader boots for a 1980 C 36 with upper and lower
spreaders?

 

Tom 
S/V ANDIAMO

ROCKAWAY BEACH, NY
tagraph...@optonline.net  

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Stus-List Adjustable backstay?

2016-06-01 Thread Lorne Serpa via CnC-List

I'm new to sailing.  My C 30MkII has an adjustable back stay.  However, I
have watched a couple sailing videos and they say with a full rig vs.
fractional, it cannot be adjusted because the back and front stays are
attached at the top.
How do you adjust the mast rack/bend with a back stay if the fore stay is
attached at the same point?  Keeps answers simple for me...don't know all
the lingo yet.
Thanks.
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Stus-List Loctite sealant for marine use? Maybe not?

2016-06-01 Thread Lee Youngblood via CnC-List

Hum, 

I clicked on the Loctite link below, and it’s NOT recommended with butyl!  
WHAT?  I thought my hull/deck joint was put together with butyl, so it could be 
tightened up - only if leaking.  It’s lasted 32 years, so C got a lot right!  
Not sure I’d want to risk/mess with that record. . .  

Remember folks lots of people have to reinvent the wheel, every Spring.  It’s 
often good to check the archives and what’s worked in the past.

Just checking, Lee

Not Recommended For

Exterior applications when rain is expected before sealant reaches initial cure
Vertical surface repair (use on horizontal surfaces only)
Aircraft runway or tarmac use
Joint depths greater than 3/8' (9.5 mm) without the use of a backer rod. In 
joints deeper than 3/8' (9.5 mm) the sealant may bubble if applied too deep or 
if substrate is not absolutely dry
Contact with oil-based caulking compounds, butyl caulking compounds and 
silicone sealants(Uncured and cured)

On Jun 1, 2016, at 9:57 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Agreed. I just like that someone has been testing the Loctite polyurethane 
> for the past 10 years, above and below the waterline. Quikcrete and Loctite 
> are the same price point more or less. Take a look at the article. Good read.
> 
> On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 9:32 AM S Thomas via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> The Quikrete product is intended for buildings.
> Doesn't mean it won't work for other things.
>  
>  
> http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Paint-D%C3%A9cor/Maintenance/Concrete-Sealer-Supp/Cement-Acc/Miscellaneous/300mL-Grey-Self-Leveling-Polyurethane-Sealant/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN/R-I2622729?Ntt=self+leveling
>  
> Steve.
> Which one did you use Bettina? The article mentions Loctite PLS20, PLS 40, 
> and but no Quikcrete. Looks like Loctite has also come out with a Marine 
> version.
> 
> Loctite Polyurethene here 
> Practical Sailor Article here
> 
> Thanks,
> Kevin
> 

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Re: Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?

2016-06-01 Thread robert via CnC-List


Edd,

I have a Nico solar vent on the forward hatch.been there since I 
bought the boat in 2006 and would not be without it.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2016-06-01 1:37 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

Listers,

After launching the Enterprise last week, we undertook a several-day 
battle of cleaning up mold and mildew that formed over the winter 
season. See: 
https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-atTOVzKTiJ4/V070NXLN-NI/CbI/L4P1kYqh0DAJw5J-vDUC2nFRCCXe4OtHgCLcB/s1600/madkirk.jpg 



It’s time for one (or two) of those solar vent fans. The question I 
have for the collective wisdom of the group is, if you have installed 
them, where do you have them? How hard was it to install? I cringe at 
the idea of drilling a 3-4 inch hole in the deck, but also am not 
crazy about reducing natural light by putting one into a hatch. Any 
ideas and experience is welcome.


… except for that guy who is not an engineer…..

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 







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Re: Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?

2016-06-01 Thread Rick Rohwer via CnC-List

Hi Edd
We  have been running dehumidifier and some heat (living aboard) most of the 
winter so we are golden, but last winter was a different story.  Not much air 
movement on the 37+.  

I had some solar vents on past boats and they were great.  i am wondering if 
you could set up a low voltage fan in line but unattached to the bilge fan, and 
dedicate it to a small solar panel.  Run during sunlight and not at night.  I 
think the goal is to reduce the relative humidity to less than 50%?   If you 
are pulling vapor off when the temp is higher it will have more effect on the % 
when the temp is lowered.  I also don’t want to put holes in my hatches!

I might give it a try if I get some time, but I have a bunch of unsatisfied 
projects so it may wait for fall. Good luck and I really enjoyed your 
attachment as it reminded me of my wife!  Her rendition is probably a little 
more high pitched and directed straight at me.  She thinks I either control or 
understand all things, and then runs me through the wringer when I shrug and 
admit I am mortal!

Cheers
Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA

> On Jun 1, 2016, at 9:37 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> After launching the Enterprise last week, we undertook a several-day battle 
> of cleaning up mold and mildew that formed over the winter season. See: 
> https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-atTOVzKTiJ4/V070NXLN-NI/CbI/L4P1kYqh0DAJw5J-vDUC2nFRCCXe4OtHgCLcB/s1600/madkirk.jpg
>  
> 
>  
> 
> It’s time for one (or two) of those solar vent fans. The question I have for 
> the collective wisdom of the group is, if you have installed them, where do 
> you have them? How hard was it to install? I cringe at the idea of drilling a 
> 3-4 inch hole in the deck, but also am not crazy about reducing natural light 
> by putting one into a hatch. Any ideas and experience is welcome. 
> 
> … except for that guy who is not an engineer….. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?

2016-06-01 Thread Rick Rohwer via CnC-List

Hi Edd
We  have been running dehumidifier and some heat (living aboard) most of the 
winter so we are golden, but last winter was a different story.  Not much air 
movement on the 37+.  

I had some solar vents on past boats and they were great.  i am wondering if 
you could set up a low voltage fan in line but unattached to the bilge fan, and 
dedicate it to a small solar panel.  Run during sunlight and not at night.  I 
think the goal is to reduce the relative humidity to less than 50%?   If you 
are pulling vapor off when the temp is higher it will have more effect on the % 
when the temp is lowered.  I also don’t want to put holes in my hatches!

I might give it a try if I get some time, but I have a bunch of unsatisfied 
projects so it may wait for fall. Good luck and I really enjoyed your 
attachment as it reminded me of my wife!  Her rendition is probably a little 
more high pitched and directed straight at me.  She thinks I either control or 
understand all things, and then runs me through the wringer when I shrug and 
admit I am mortal!

Cheers
Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA

> On Jun 1, 2016, at 9:37 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> After launching the Enterprise last week, we undertook a several-day battle 
> of cleaning up mold and mildew that formed over the winter season. See: 
> https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-atTOVzKTiJ4/V070NXLN-NI/CbI/L4P1kYqh0DAJw5J-vDUC2nFRCCXe4OtHgCLcB/s1600/madkirk.jpg
>  
> 
>  
> 
> It’s time for one (or two) of those solar vent fans. The question I have for 
> the collective wisdom of the group is, if you have installed them, where do 
> you have them? How hard was it to install? I cringe at the idea of drilling a 
> 3-4 inch hole in the deck, but also am not crazy about reducing natural light 
> by putting one into a hatch. Any ideas and experience is welcome. 
> 
> … except for that guy who is not an engineer….. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2

2016-06-01 Thread Neil Gallagher via CnC-List


Dennis,

Are those turning blocks on the mast something you added, or do you 
think the forward two, at least, were original?  Weatherly has none of 
those, just deck-mounted stand-up turning blocks -  what you have keeps 
a large part of the load on the mast, much nicer.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 6/1/2016 3:48 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Randy,

Touche', like many older models, had exits with sheaves a couple 
inches above the collar.  Look at this picture:


https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsSlRKb1pDdHdoSW8

Note the metal plate behind the 3rd block.  That used to have one of 
these:


https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsTzNGazZZampHX00

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 1:48 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
> wrote:


That all makes good sense.  And yes, my 30-1 #7 has sheaves in the
mast just above the cabin top for turning the main and headsail
halyards out (athwartships) to winches on the dorade boxes.

The thing that still confuses me is, on these boats with mast
collar tangs, how do the halyards exit the mast above the cabin
top, if there are no sheaves in the mast and they require turning
blocks on the mast collar?

Cheers,
Randy


*From: *"Robert Gallagher via CnC-List" >
*To: *"cnc-list" >
*Cc: *"Robert Gallagher" >
*Sent: *Wednesday, June 1, 2016 8:46:21 AM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2

I'm no engineer.  Just a guess.

The older models were not designed with vertical running rigging
loads at the center of the cabin roof. There were  horizontal
loads leading from inside the mast to winches at the base of the mast

Later models had halyard, reefing, etc blocks attached to the
cabin top that lead aft to the cockpit.  These loads are vertical.

In my untrained brain I always assumed that was the reason for the
tangs on my 30 MKII and the lack of tangs on my 30 MKI

But again, I'm no engineer

Rob Gallagher
Hanuman
30MKII
Noank Ct


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If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by
donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




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Stus-List Bid quick - 35-1 on eBay in New Orleans

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-C-C-35-Sailboat-Louisiana-/391463973172?forcerrptr=true=item5b25123134:g:E3MAAOSw1h5XQhYF=391463973172

Dennis C.
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Re: Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?

2016-06-01 Thread Kurt Heckert via CnC-List

How about replacing the dorades on the coach roof, if you have them.___

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Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden

2016-06-01 Thread Tim Goodyear via CnC-List

In my experience, mineral oil floats at the top of the holding tank and stops 
aeration - very smelly...

> On Jun 1, 2016, at 5:19 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I was surprised to learn that Muriatic acid is actually preferred to vinigar 
> as a treatment for the internal buildup in the toilet.  So long as there are 
> no exposed metal parts it works great.  The stuff fizzes up...and when it 
> stops it is either all used up or done.
> 
> Then a follow up with mineral oil to lube the inside does the trick.
> 
> Tom B
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
> 
> 
> At 11:43 AM 6/1/2016, you wrote:
> 
>> On Jun 1, 2016, at 6:51 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List >  > wrote:
>> 
>> If you're getting a little backflow from the joker valve, you may want to 
>> try running some household (white) vinegar through the system and leaving it 
>> to soak overnight.  Salt deposits build up on the valves and vinegar helps 
>> dissolve it.  It is a cheap and very much hands-off first option.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Tim
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> On May 31, 2016, at 9:10 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>>  > wrote:
>> 
>> I just bought the rebuild kit for $72 at Jamestown Distributors (USD) but it 
>> seems the Thetford Headmate pump assembly is currently back ordered from 
>> those that are listing it on their websites.
>> 
>> I get a slight amount of back flow if the head is pumped empty which I 
>> suspect is the joker valve either worn or not seating properly. Also, the 
>> handle doesn?t want to stay in the down position in either the empty or 
>> flush position, which makes me believe there is back pressure even when the 
>> intake side is shut.
>> 
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>> 
>> S/V Half Magic
>> 
>> 1983 LF 35
>> 
>> Padanaram, MA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?

2016-06-01 Thread David Miles via CnC-List

Thx Mike. I’ll have a look.
We were just discussing the idea last weekend, so they may well be helpful, if 
not too much trouble.
Did they make the difference you were hoping for?
 
Be safe.
 
Best regards,
 
David Miles
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Persuasion37 
via CnC-List
Sent: June-01-16 5:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Persuasion37
Subject: Re: Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?
 
Hey Dave
 
Just checked my blog (persuasion37.com) and if you look at the cover photo and 
one posted May 17/15 you can see the vents.  If you would like close ups and 
more in depth pics I'll get them when I get home.
 
Mike
Persuasion
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault
 
Sent from my iPad

On Jun 1, 2016, at 8:11 PM, David Miles via CnC-List  
wrote:
Do you have some pictures you can post of the Vent Fans Mike?
 
Best regards,
 
David Miles
Impulse
C 30-2
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Persuasion37 
via CnC-List
Sent: June-01-16 2:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Persuasion37
Subject: Re: Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?
 
On Persuasion the cowls were removed and solar vents installed.  Over the 
galley sink another was installed.
 
Mike
Persuasion
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 1, 2016, at 1:37 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:
Listers,
 
After launching the Enterprise last week, we undertook a several-day battle of 
cleaning up mold and mildew that formed over the winter season. See: 
https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-atTOVzKTiJ4/V070NXLN-NI/CbI/L4P1kYqh0DAJw5J-vDUC2nFRCCXe4OtHgCLcB/s1600/madkirk.jpg
 
 
It’s time for one (or two) of those solar vent fans. The question I have for 
the collective wisdom of the group is, if you have installed them, where do you 
have them? How hard was it to install? I cringe at the idea of drilling a 3-4 
inch hole in the deck, but also am not crazy about reducing natural light by 
putting one into a hatch. Any ideas and experience is welcome. 
 
… except for that guy who is not an engineer….. 

All the best,
 
Edd
 
 
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  
 






 




 
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Re: Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?

Hey Dave

Just checked my blog (persuasion37.com) and if you look at the cover photo and 
one posted May 17/15 you can see the vents.  If you would like close ups and 
more in depth pics I'll get them when I get home.

Mike
Persuasion
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 1, 2016, at 8:11 PM, David Miles via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Do you have some pictures you can post of the Vent Fans Mike?
>  
> Best regards,
>  
> David Miles
> Impulse
> C 30-2
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Persuasion37 via CnC-List
> Sent: June-01-16 2:51 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Persuasion37
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?
>  
> On Persuasion the cowls were removed and solar vents installed.  Over the 
> galley sink another was installed.
>  
> Mike
> Persuasion
> C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Jun 1, 2016, at 1:37 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Listers,
>  
> After launching the Enterprise last week, we undertook a several-day battle 
> of cleaning up mold and mildew that formed over the winter season. See: 
> https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-atTOVzKTiJ4/V070NXLN-NI/CbI/L4P1kYqh0DAJw5J-vDUC2nFRCCXe4OtHgCLcB/s1600/madkirk.jpg
>  
>  
> It’s time for one (or two) of those solar vent fans. The question I have for 
> the collective wisdom of the group is, if you have installed them, where do 
> you have them? How hard was it to install? I cringe at the idea of drilling a 
> 3-4 inch hole in the deck, but also am not crazy about reducing natural light 
> by putting one into a hatch. Any ideas and experience is welcome. 
>  
> … except for that guy who is not an engineer….. 
> 
> All the best,
>  
> Edd
>  
>  
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
>  
> 
> 
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?

On Persuasion the cowls were removed and solar vents installed.  Over the 
galley sink another was installed.

Mike
Persuasion
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 1, 2016, at 1:37 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> After launching the Enterprise last week, we undertook a several-day battle 
> of cleaning up mold and mildew that formed over the winter season. See: 
> https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-atTOVzKTiJ4/V070NXLN-NI/CbI/L4P1kYqh0DAJw5J-vDUC2nFRCCXe4OtHgCLcB/s1600/madkirk.jpg
>  
> 
> It’s time for one (or two) of those solar vent fans. The question I have for 
> the collective wisdom of the group is, if you have installed them, where do 
> you have them? How hard was it to install? I cringe at the idea of drilling a 
> 3-4 inch hole in the deck, but also am not crazy about reducing natural light 
> by putting one into a hatch. Any ideas and experience is welcome. 
> 
> … except for that guy who is not an engineer….. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Spreader Boots

I just use white electrical tape to cover the spreader tip pin and retainer.  I 
do pull my mast every year though.

Mike
Persuasion
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 1, 2016, at 11:12 AM, Tom Alessi via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> Any recommendations on spreader boots for a 1980 C 36 with upper and lower 
> spreaders?
>  
> Tom 
> S/V ANDIAMO
> ROCKAWAY BEACH, NY
> tagraph...@optonline.net
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Arrival by private boat in the US bya "visa exempt" citizen

I can attest to the fact that Homeland Security is anal about reporting each 
movement.  On our trip south in 2014 I was travelling with another boat and the 
captain said he never call in during is north bound trip the previous year.  In 
Annapolis they caught up with us and advised us of our requirements and a 
verbal warning (strike one).  In St. Augustine we were elevated to an 
investigator and had a face to face with Homeland Security at the airport. 
(Strike two).  I immediately went to Walmart and got my own cell phone.  
Thereafter I called every night even if I only moved across the ICW.  On the 
north bound trip in 2015 I didn't renew the cell service.  I used Google 
hangouts.  This made my calls interesting as sometimes I would get routed 
through a west coast office.

If you haven't tried hangouts you should give it a try.  We could call from the 
Bahamas to anywhere in NA for free.  The Admirals sister in Indiana or her 
father in Nova Scotia all for free.

Mike
Persuasion
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault
Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 1, 2016, at 2:35 PM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The American government is pretty extreme in its reporting requirements for 
> visiting pleasure boats, especially that part about having to report every 
> movement of the boat once in American waters. Can you imagine if they did 
> that with cars? I seriously doubt that there are very many Americans who know 
> about these requirements, let alone us dangerous foreigners with our 7 knot 
> sailboats.
>  
> The whole point in my getting a Nexus card was so that I would not normally 
> have to report physically at a controlled point of entry. The border control 
> people could insist on it at any time of course, but they normally don't. All 
> of this was carefully laid out by the Nexus / Homeland Security / Canadian 
> Border Services people when I got my card. If I understand the article 
> correctly, this has now changed?
>  
> Steve.  
> - Original Message -
> From: Paul Baker via CnC-List
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Paul Baker
> Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2016 10:38
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Arrival by private boat in the US bya "visa exempt" 
> citizen
> 
> this might be 
> useful.http://currents.bluewatercruising.org/articles/pleasure-boat-entry-us-new-process-2016/
> 
> Date: Tue, 31 May 2016 15:05:25 -0600
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Arrival by private boat in the US by a "visa exempt" 
> citizen
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: anitteb...@yahoo.ca
> 
> Arrival on a commercial vessel is a non issue. Private /charter boat seems to 
> be the problem. Or did you mean to say you've gone back and forth n your own 
> or charter boat?
> 
> 
> ___ This list is supported by the 
> generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay 
> for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
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Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden

2016-06-01 Thread Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List

I was surprised to learn that Muriatic acid is actually preferred to 
vinigar as a treatment for the internal buildup in the toilet.  So 
long as there are no exposed metal parts it works great.  The stuff 
fizzes up...and when it stops it is either all used up or done.

Then a follow up with mineral oil to lube the inside does the trick.

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com

At 11:43 AM 6/1/2016, you wrote:

On Jun 1, 2016, at 6:51 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

If you're getting a little backflow from the joker valve, you may 
want to try running some household (white) vinegar through the 
system and leaving it to soak overnight.  Salt deposits build up on 
the valves and vinegar helps dissolve it.  It is a cheap and very 
much hands-off first option.

Tim

On May 31, 2016, at 9:10 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

I just bought the rebuild kit for $72 at Jamestown Distributors 
(USD) but it seems the Thetford Headmate pump assembly is currently 
back ordered from those that are listing it on their websites.

I get a slight amount of back flow if the head is pumped empty which 
I suspect is the joker valve either worn or not seating properly. 
Also, the handle doesn?t want to stay in the down position in either 
the empty or flush position, which makes me believe there is back 
pressure even when the intake side is shut.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA
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Stus-List Hull Identification number required by New Mexico. Transom Depth?

2016-06-01 Thread Lorne Serpa via CnC-List

Hello.  I have purchased a 1988 30MkII.  On the paperwork, the motor
vehicle department needs some measurements.  One is "Transom Depth"  My
boat is in DC and I'm in New Mexico.  Anyone with a C care to
measure and let me know the transom height?
Thanks a ton.

Lorne
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Re: Stus-List Spreader Boots

2016-06-01 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List

I expect that I'll hear quite a bit of push back but, I don't have spreader
boots and it has never caused me a problem.  The sails have spreader
patches to prevent chaff.  I resist spreader boots since they hold moisture
and can contribute to corrosion.  They also prevent the rain from rinsing
out the spreader tips and the interface with the stays.  Of course they
also contribute to windage aloft.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 1, 2016 10:13 AM, "Tom Alessi via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hello all,
> Any recommendations on spreader boots for a 1980 C 36 with upper and
> lower spreaders?
>
> Tom
> S/V ANDIAMO
> ROCKAWAY BEACH, NY
> tagraph...@optonline.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2

Randy,

Touche', like many older models, had exits with sheaves a couple inches
above the collar.  Look at this picture:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsSlRKb1pDdHdoSW8

Note the metal plate behind the 3rd block.  That used to have one of these:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsTzNGazZZampHX00

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 1:48 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That all makes good sense.  And yes, my 30-1 #7 has sheaves in the mast
> just above the cabin top for turning the main and headsail halyards out
> (athwartships) to winches on the dorade boxes.
>
> The thing that still confuses me is, on these boats with mast collar
> tangs, how do the halyards exit the mast above the cabin top, if there are
> no sheaves in the mast and they require turning blocks on the mast collar?
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> --
> *From: *"Robert Gallagher via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"cnc-list" 
> *Cc: *"Robert Gallagher" 
> *Sent: *Wednesday, June 1, 2016 8:46:21 AM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2
>
> I'm no engineer.  Just a guess.
>
> The older models were not designed with vertical running rigging loads at
> the center of the cabin roof. There were  horizontal loads leading from
> inside the mast to winches at the base of the mast
>
> Later models had halyard, reefing, etc blocks attached to the cabin
> top that lead aft to the cockpit.  These loads are vertical.
>
> In my untrained brain I always assumed that was the reason for the tangs
> on my 30 MKII and the lack of tangs on my 30 MKI
>
> But again, I'm no engineer
>
> Rob Gallagher
> Hanuman
> 30MKII
> Noank Ct
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

2016-06-01 Thread jackbrennan via CnC-List

I've been using this to seal deck hardware, framed portlights and chainplates 
for several years. Dries in 30 minutes and forms a waterproof, flexible, 
adhesive seal that is far superior to anything found in a chandlery. 

I've yet to have a leak anywhere I've used it.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-3-0-9-oz-Crystal-Clear-Premium-Gutter-and-Flashing-Sealant-18377/206046712

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: S Thomas via CnC-List  
Date:06/01/2016  12:32 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: S Thomas  
Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux 

The Quikrete product is intended for buildings.
Doesn't mean it won't work for other things.

http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Paint-D%C3%A9cor/Maintenance/Concrete-Sealer-Supp/Cement-Acc/Miscellaneous/300mL-Grey-Self-Leveling-Polyurethane-Sealant/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN/R-I2622729?Ntt=self+leveling

Steve.
- Original Message -
From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Driscoll
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2016 11:58
Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

Which one did you use Bettina? The article mentions Loctite PLS20, PLS 40, and 
but no Quikcrete. Looks like Loctite has also come out with a Marine version.

Loctite Polyurethene here 
Practical Sailor Article here

Thanks,
Kevin

On Mon, May 30, 2016 at 5:19 AM Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Thanks Bettina

Mike

Sent from my iPad

On May 29, 2016, at 11:44 PM, Bmue via CnC-List  wrote:

Hi Mike,
Quikrete, polyurethane, self levelling 
Bettina

On May 28, 2016, at 10:46, Persuasion via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi Bettina

Just wondering what was the caulk you used along the toe rail.

Thanks
Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

Sent from my Xperia™ tablet

 Bmue via CnC-List wrote 

Ryan,
Nice job.
Re finishing the topside.
Just do it. 

We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull 
battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige or 
whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had 
mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches of 
old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip left on 
the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"

3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of the 
kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done) and the 
boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during launch and at 
the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple of stanchions, 
fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes in the cockpit. 

My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some cleats and 
blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what is set that 
fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some "special" kiwigrip 
tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off the roll and hot glueing 
it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch on a Popsicle stick...worked 
like a charm in the areas where the roller couldn't reach.

The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever 
painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have a 
problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but I 
think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to apply 
and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it feels 
safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the rounded parts of 
the deck. 

Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by practical 
sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along there, but 
can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it  . Good news, 
after three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the stuff 
somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left the caulk to 
dry for a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last time I was at the 
boat the sun finally baked the paint on? 

In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a makeover. 
I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband finally came 
around.

Bettina

C 25 Savannah

> On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> at

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Re: Stus-List Installing linear autohelm on LF38

2016-06-01 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List

Francois,

The "correct" method isn't that much more labor intensive.  You're probably
going to have to glass in a platform for the linear drive and one for a
rudder position sensor.  You can tie off a line to the bail on the rudder
stalk and then lower it, even while in the water.  Pull the support line to
the opposite site of the tube so that it doesn't get cut while cutting the
rudder tube.  To ensure alignment, and reduce the effects of expansion,
compression, and torque, I would glass in supports that bridge the gap
prior to cutting the tube.

You may have already seem pictures but here's a link.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yZU1hczd0QlNEOWc

The other advantage of the under deck install is that you don't loose
any/much of the storage area in the aft-port lazarette.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 1, 2016 10:46 AM, "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Chuck,
>
> How about making a custom tiller arm that fits into the emergency tiller
> fitting above the radial drive? I saw that done online and thought that was
> rather clever.  I've also been mulling this over for a couple years now and
> that's the best "easy" solution I saw.
>
>
> I have a similar situation where I would prefer a linear drive on my 34+
> and for me there's no "Below deck" option as the radial drive sits over the
> cockpit floor under a cover in the pass through to the open stern swim
> ladder. The "correct" way involves dropping the rudder, cutting the tube
> below decks, slipping a tiller through, then custom glassing proper
> supports and shelving.. That's a pretty labor intensive project..
>
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2

2016-06-01 Thread Frederick G Street via CnC-List

Randy — mine just use exit plates, like these:

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C118%7C2358532%7C2358537=113318

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 1, 2016, at 1:48 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The thing that still confuses me is, on these boats with mast collar tangs, 
> how do the halyards exit the mast above the cabin top, if there are no 
> sheaves in the mast and they require turning blocks on the mast collar?
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
> 

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Re: Stus-List Arrival by private boat in the US bya "visa exempt" citizen

2016-06-01 Thread Bmue via CnC-List

Thank you for the article on the cruising license ...that was useful...but 
didn't help re the I94 visa exempt form. Maybe I'll try to contact those 
officers mentioned directly as the info line people really didn't have the 
answer .

As for the reporting of every movement, reminds me of travelling to east 
Germany as a kid, you arrived at the border they ripped the car apart, then you 
had to report on where you went, stopped, which routes you took and who you 
stayed with and, report in at every destination. Just sayin...

> On Jun 1, 2016, at 12:03, "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> Well, ya know, next thing some dangerous foreigner mounts a 10a shotgun on a 
> swivel on the foredeck and there ya have it, a frigate!
> Ya just can't be too safe.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
> 
> 
> 
> From: S Thomas via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: S Thomas 
> Sent: Wednesday, June 1, 2016 12:35 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Arrival by private boat in the US  bya "visa   
> exempt" citizen
> 
> The American government is pretty extreme in its reporting requirements for 
> visiting pleasure boats, especially that part about having to report every 
> movement of the boat once in American waters. Can you imagine if they did 
> that with cars? I seriously doubt that there are very many Americans who know 
> about these requirements, let alone us dangerous foreigners with our 7 knot 
> sailboats.
>  
> The whole point in my getting a Nexus card was so that I would not normally 
> have to report physically at a controlled point of entry. The border control 
> people could insist on it at any time of course, but they normally don't. All 
> of this was carefully laid out by the Nexus / Homeland Security / Canadian 
> Border Services people when I got my card. If I understand the article 
> correctly, this has now changed?
>  
> Steve.  
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?

2016-06-01 Thread Edd Schillay via CnC-List

Josh,

Which midships hatches? The ones over the galley and head, or the two right in 
front of the mast? 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 









> On Jun 1, 2016, at 2:44 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The previous 37+ that I looked at purchasing (Blue Pearl) had the solar fans 
> installed in the midships port and stbd hatches.  It didn't seem to effect 
> natural light very much.  Many of the solar fans have a directional switch 
> that allow one to be intake and output.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Jun 1, 2016 12:38 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> Listers,
> 
> After launching the Enterprise last week, we undertook a several-day battle 
> of cleaning up mold and mildew that formed over the winter season. See: 
> https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-atTOVzKTiJ4/V070NXLN-NI/CbI/L4P1kYqh0DAJw5J-vDUC2nFRCCXe4OtHgCLcB/s1600/madkirk.jpg
>  
> 
>  
> 
> It’s time for one (or two) of those solar vent fans. The question I have for 
> the collective wisdom of the group is, if you have installed them, where do 
> you have them? How hard was it to install? I cringe at the idea of drilling a 
> 3-4 inch hole in the deck, but also am not crazy about reducing natural light 
> by putting one into a hatch. Any ideas and experience is welcome. 
> 
> … except for that guy who is not an engineer….. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 

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Re: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2

2016-06-01 Thread Randy Stafford via CnC-List

That all makes good sense. And yes, my 30-1 #7 has sheaves in the mast just 
above the cabin top for turning the main and headsail halyards out 
(athwartships) to winches on the dorade boxes. 

The thing that still confuses me is, on these boats with mast collar tangs, how 
do the halyards exit the mast above the cabin top, if there are no sheaves in 
the mast and they require turning blocks on the mast collar? 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Robert Gallagher via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Robert Gallagher"  
Sent: Wednesday, June 1, 2016 8:46:21 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2 

I'm no engineer. Just a guess. 

The older models were not designed with vertical running rigging loads at the 
center of the cabin roof. There were horizontal loads leading from inside the 
mast to winches at the base of the mast 

Later models had halyard, reefing, etc blocks attached to the cabin top that 
lead aft to the cockpit. These loads are vertical. 

In my untrained brain I always assumed that was the reason for the tangs on my 
30 MKII and the lack of tangs on my 30 MKI 

But again, I'm no engineer 

Rob Gallagher 
Hanuman 
30MKII 
Noank Ct 


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?

2016-06-01 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List

The previous 37+ that I looked at purchasing (Blue Pearl) had the solar
fans installed in the midships port and stbd hatches. It didn't seem to
effect natural light very much. Many of the solar fans have a directional
switch that allow one to be intake and output.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 1, 2016 12:38 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"
wrote:

Listers,

After launching the Enterprise last week, we undertook a several-day battle
of cleaning up mold and mildew that formed over the winter season. See:
https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-atTOVzKTiJ4/V070NXLN-NI/CbI/L4P1kYqh0DAJw5J-vDUC2nFRCCXe4OtHgCLcB/s1600/madkirk.jpg

It’s time for one (or two) of those solar vent fans. The question I have
for the collective wisdom of the group is, if you have installed them,
where do you have them? How hard was it to install? I cringe at the idea of
drilling a 3-4 inch hole in the deck, but also am not crazy about reducing
natural light by putting one into a hatch. Any ideas and experience is
welcome.

… except for that guy who is not an engineer…..

All the best,

Edd

Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

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Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden

2016-06-01 Thread Gary Nylander via CnC-List

Around here, if you are pumping your salad overboard, you would be in trouble. 
So, we just pump it into the tank, then shake and stir…… I will have to look 
and see what the ingredients are for the Head Lube.

Gary

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 1, 2016 2:01 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden

Check with marine life experts in your area to see if the barnacles prefer 
arugula or Romaine.  The occasional cucumber slice might also appeal to them.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 12:41 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

So between the olive oil and vinegar, I should basically just pour salad 
dressing down the pot, pump a few times and hope it works..

Any need for other seasoning or a sprig of parsley?

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram,MA

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 1, 2016, at 12:41 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  > wrote:

We keep a small bottle of olive oil on Touche' to cook with.  Olive oil can go 
rancid.  Every spring we buy a new bottle and the old bottle goes for lubing 
the head.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 11:21 AM, IRVIN via CnC-List  > wrote:

Once you get it working a periodic flush with vegetable oil will keep it lubed.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 1, 2016, at 6:51 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List  > wrote:

If you're getting a little backflow from the joker valve, you may want to try 
running some household (white) vinegar through the system and leaving it to 
soak overnight.  Salt deposits build up on the valves and vinegar helps 
dissolve it.  It is a cheap and very much hands-off first option.

Tim

On May 31, 2016, at 9:10 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

I just bought the rebuild kit for $72 at Jamestown Distributors (USD) but it 
seems the Thetford Headmate pump assembly is currently back ordered from those 
that are listing it on their websites.

I get a slight amount of back flow if the head is pumped empty which I suspect 
is the joker valve either worn or not seating properly. Also, the handle 
doesn’t want to stay in the down position in either the empty or flush 
position, which makes me believe there is back pressure even when the intake 
side is shut.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2016 6:50 PM
To: Dennis C. via CnC-List  >
Cc: Marek Dziedzic  >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden

And it is almost cheaper, as well. I had just replaced a pump in my head and I 
paid $95 for the pump, and the repair kit was $85 (both CAD). It was a Jabsco, 
so not the same, but in the process I got a locking handle as a bonus.

I made a mistake to remove the waste hose off the old pump. What a pain.

Marek

Sent from Mail   for Windows 10

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  
Sent: May 31, 2016 16:35
To: CnClist  
Cc: Dennis C.  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden

You may want to consider a new pump assembly.  If it's a WC Head Mate 1460-C 
then the pump assembly should be Part 015461.

There are a couple of benefits of replacing the entire pump assembly.  Your old 
pump cylinder may be scored or worn.  It's usually quicker and easier than 
installing a rebuild kit.  

Dennis C.

On Tue, May 31, 2016 at 1:49 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

Trying to identify the correct toilet repair kit for my marine head on my C 
29 Mark II 1984/85. It is clearly a Wilcox Crittenden. The pump is leaking 
fresh water out of the top when pumping and when heeled over there is 
significant backflow from the tank. :-( I'm pretty sure the joker valve is 
shot. Here's some pictures of the pump and head:

https://goo.gl/photos/VrEo64B65gto2wU19

The following kit looks like it's the right one.

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/wilcox-crittenden--headmate-maintenance-kit--135301

Has anyone else had experience repairing these? Does that look like the right 
kit?

Thanks,

Gene Fodor

C 29 Mark II

Hawk

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Re: Stus-List SPREADER BOOTS

Any 30 mkII owners know which sizes they used? Sm & Med or Med & Lrg boots.
Thanks!

On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 8:26 AM William Walker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I don't know what brand you are considering.  Last year I had Torreson
> Marine in Muskegon install new boots.  They used Taylor Made, part numbers
> Tay 960027 and Tay 960026, large and medium.  Medium for uppers, large for
> mowers.  About 45 per pair.
> Bill walker
> Cnc 36
> Pentwater, Mi
> On Jun 1, 2016 11:13 AM, Tom Alessi via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Are you going with "small" for the uppers and lowers?
>
> Tom
> 1980 C 36
> tagraph...@optonline.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden

2016-06-01 Thread Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List

Definitely oregano.Ron

  From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
 Sent: Wednesday, June 1, 2016 12:41 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden

So between the olive oil and vinegar, I should basically just pour salad 
dressing down the pot, pump a few times and hope it works..Any need for other 
seasoning or a sprig of parsley?Chuck GilchrestHalf Magic1983 LF 35Padanaram,MA

Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 1, 2016, at 12:41 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

We keep a small bottle of olive oil on Touche' to cook with.  Olive oil can go 
rancid.  Every spring we buy a new bottle and the old bottle goes for lubing 
the head.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 11:21 AM, IRVIN via CnC-List  
wrote:

Once you get it working a periodic flush with vegetable oil will keep it lubed.

Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 1, 2016, at 6:51 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List  
wrote:

If you're getting a little backflow from the joker valve, you may want to try 
running some household (white) vinegar through the system and leaving it to 
soak overnight.  Salt deposits build up on the valves and vinegar helps 
dissolve it.  It is a cheap and very much hands-off first option.
Tim

On May 31, 2016, at 9:10 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I just bought the rebuild kit for $72 at Jamestown Distributors (USD) but it 
seems the Thetford Headmate pump assembly is currently back ordered from those 
that are listing it on their websites.I get a slight amount of back flow if the 
head is pumped empty which I suspect is the joker valve either worn or not 
seating properly. Also, the handle doesn’t want to stay in the down position in 
either the empty or flush position, which makes me believe there is back 
pressure even when the intake side is shut.Chuck GilchrestS/V Half Magic1983 LF 
35Padanaram, MAFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf 
Of Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2016 6:50 PM
To: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden And it is almost 
cheaper, as well. I had just replaced a pump in my head and I paid $95 for the 
pump, and the repair kit was $85 (both CAD). It was a Jabsco, so not the same, 
but in the process I got a locking handle as a bonus. I made a mistake to 
remove the waste hose off the old pump. What a pain. Marek Sent from Mail for 
Windows 10 From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: May 31, 2016 16:35
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden You may want to consider 
a new pump assembly.  If it's a WC Head Mate 1460-C then the pump assembly 
should be Part 015461.There are a couple of benefits of replacing the entire 
pump assembly.  Your old pump cylinder may be scored or worn.  It's usually 
quicker and easier than installing a rebuild kit.  Dennis C. On Tue, May 31, 
2016 at 1:49 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List  wrote:
Trying to identify the correct toilet repair kit for my marine head on my C 
29 Mark II 1984/85. It is clearly a Wilcox Crittenden. The pump is leaking 
fresh water out of the top when pumping and when heeled over there is 
significant backflow from the tank. :-( I'm pretty sure the joker valve is 
shot. Here's some pictures of the pump and head: 
https://goo.gl/photos/VrEo64B65gto2wU19 The following kit looks like it's the 
right one. 
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/wilcox-crittenden--headmate-maintenance-kit--135301
 Has anyone else had experience repairing these? Does that look like the right 
kit? Thanks, Gene FodorC 29 Mark IIHawk
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Arrival by private boat in the US bya "visa exempt" citizen

2016-06-01 Thread Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List

Well, ya know, next thing some dangerous foreigner mounts a 10a shotgun on a 
swivel on the foredeck and there ya have it, a frigate!Ya just can't be too 
safe.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL

  From: S Thomas via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: S Thomas 
 Sent: Wednesday, June 1, 2016 12:35 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Arrival by private boat in the US bya "visa exempt" 
citizen

 #yiv4415944877 .yiv4415944877hmmessage P 
{PADDING-BOTTOM:0px;MARGIN:0px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;PADDING-TOP:0px;}#yiv4415944877
 BODY.yiv4415944877hmmessage {FONT-FAMILY:Calibri;FONT-SIZE:12pt;} The American 
government is pretty extreme in its reporting requirements for visiting 
pleasure boats, especially that part about having to report every movement of 
the boat once in American waters. Can you imagine if they did that with cars? I 
seriously doubt that there are very many Americans who know about these 
requirements, let alone us dangerous foreigners with our 7 knot sailboats.  The 
whole point in my getting a Nexus card was so that I would not normally have to 
report physically at a controlled point of entry. The border control people 
could insist on it at any time of course, but they normally don't. All of this 
was carefully laid out by the Nexus / Homeland Security / Canadian Border 
Services people when I got my card. If I understand the article correctly, this 
has now changed? Steve.  

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Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden

Check with marine life experts in your area to see if the barnacles prefer
arugula or Romaine.  The occasional cucumber slice might also appeal to
them.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 12:41 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So between the olive oil and vinegar, I should basically just pour salad
> dressing down the pot, pump a few times and hope it works..
> Any need for other seasoning or a sprig of parsley?
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1983 LF 35
> Padanaram,MA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 1, 2016, at 12:41 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> We keep a small bottle of olive oil on Touche' to cook with.  Olive oil
> can go rancid.  Every spring we buy a new bottle and the old bottle goes
> for lubing the head.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 11:21 AM, IRVIN via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
>> Once you get it working a periodic flush with vegetable oil will keep it
>> lubed.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jun 1, 2016, at 6:51 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> If you're getting a little backflow from the joker valve, you may want to
>> try running some household (white) vinegar through the system and leaving
>> it to soak overnight.  Salt deposits build up on the valves and vinegar
>> helps dissolve it.  It is a cheap and very much hands-off first option.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>> On May 31, 2016, at 9:10 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I just bought the rebuild kit for $72 at Jamestown Distributors (USD) but
>> it seems the Thetford Headmate pump assembly is currently back ordered from
>> those that are listing it on their websites.
>>
>> I get a slight amount of back flow if the head is pumped empty which I
>> suspect is the joker valve either worn or not seating properly. Also, the
>> handle doesn’t want to stay in the down position in either the empty or
>> flush position, which makes me believe there is back pressure even when the
>> intake side is shut.
>>
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>>
>> S/V Half Magic
>>
>> 1983 LF 35
>>
>> Padanaram, MA
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
>> ] *On Behalf Of *Marek Dziedzic via
>> CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 31, 2016 6:50 PM
>> *To:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>> *Cc:* Marek Dziedzic 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden
>>
>>
>>
>> And it is almost cheaper, as well. I had just replaced a pump in my head
>> and I paid $95 for the pump, and the repair kit was $85 (both CAD). It was
>> a Jabsco, so not the same, but in the process I got a locking handle as a
>> bonus.
>>
>>
>>
>> I made a mistake to remove the waste hose off the old pump. What a pain.
>>
>>
>>
>> Marek
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from Mail  for
>> Windows 10
>>
>>
>>
>> *From: *Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>> *Sent: *May 31, 2016 16:35
>> *To: *CnClist 
>> *Cc: *Dennis C. 
>> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden
>>
>>
>>
>> You may want to consider a new pump assembly.  If it's a WC Head Mate
>> 1460-C then the pump assembly should be Part 015461.
>>
>> There are a couple of benefits of replacing the entire pump assembly.
>> Your old pump cylinder may be scored or worn.  It's usually quicker and
>> easier than installing a rebuild kit.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, May 31, 2016 at 1:49 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Trying to identify the correct toilet repair kit for my marine head on my
>> C 29 Mark II 1984/85. It is clearly a Wilcox Crittenden. The pump is
>> leaking fresh water out of the top when pumping and when heeled over there
>> is significant backflow from the tank. :-( I'm pretty sure the joker valve
>> is shot. Here's some pictures of the pump and head:
>>
>>
>>
>> https://goo.gl/photos/VrEo64B65gto2wU19
>>
>>
>>
>> The following kit looks like it's the right one.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/wilcox-crittenden--headmate-maintenance-kit--135301
>>
>>
>>
>> Has anyone else had experience repairing these? Does that look like the
>> right kit?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>>
>> Gene Fodor
>>
>> C 29 Mark II
>>
>> Hawk
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members.

Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden

2016-06-01 Thread Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List

So between the olive oil and vinegar, I should basically just pour salad 
dressing down the pot, pump a few times and hope it works..
Any need for other seasoning or a sprig of parsley?
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram,MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 1, 2016, at 12:41 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> We keep a small bottle of olive oil on Touche' to cook with.  Olive oil can 
> go rancid.  Every spring we buy a new bottle and the old bottle goes for 
> lubing the head.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
>> On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 11:21 AM, IRVIN via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Once you get it working a periodic flush with vegetable oil will keep it 
>> lubed.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jun 1, 2016, at 6:51 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> If you're getting a little backflow from the joker valve, you may want to 
>>> try running some household (white) vinegar through the system and leaving 
>>> it to soak overnight.  Salt deposits build up on the valves and vinegar 
>>> helps dissolve it.  It is a cheap and very much hands-off first option.
>>> 
>>> Tim
>>> 
>>> 
 On May 31, 2016, at 9:10 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
  wrote:

 I just bought the rebuild kit for $72 at Jamestown Distributors (USD) but 
 it seems the Thetford Headmate pump assembly is currently back ordered 
 from those that are listing it on their websites.

 I get a slight amount of back flow if the head is pumped empty which I 
 suspect is the joker valve either worn or not seating properly. Also, the 
 handle doesn’t want to stay in the down position in either the empty or 
 flush position, which makes me believe there is back pressure even when 
 the intake side is shut.

 Chuck Gilchrest

 S/V Half Magic

 1983 LF 35

 Padanaram, MA

 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
 Dziedzic via CnC-List
 Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2016 6:50 PM
 To: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden

 And it is almost cheaper, as well. I had just replaced a pump in my head 
 and I paid $95 for the pump, and the repair kit was $85 (both CAD). It was 
 a Jabsco, so not the same, but in the process I got a locking handle as a 
 bonus.

 I made a mistake to remove the waste hose off the old pump. What a pain.

 Marek

 Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
 Sent: May 31, 2016 16:35
 To: CnClist
 Cc: Dennis C.
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden

 You may want to consider a new pump assembly.  If it's a WC Head Mate 
 1460-C then the pump assembly should be Part 015461.

 There are a couple of benefits of replacing the entire pump assembly.  
 Your old pump cylinder may be scored or worn.  It's usually quicker and 
 easier than installing a rebuild kit. 

 Dennis C.

 On Tue, May 31, 2016 at 1:49 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List 
  wrote:

 Trying to identify the correct toilet repair kit for my marine head on my 
 C 29 Mark II 1984/85. It is clearly a Wilcox Crittenden. The pump is 
 leaking fresh water out of the top when pumping and when heeled over there 
 is significant backflow from the tank. :-( I'm pretty sure the joker valve 
 is shot. Here's some pictures of the pump and head:

 https://goo.gl/photos/VrEo64B65gto2wU19

 The following kit looks like it's the right one.

 http://www.westmarine.com/buy/wilcox-crittenden--headmate-maintenance-kit--135301

 Has anyone else had experience repairing these? Does that look like the 
 right kit?

 Thanks,

 Gene Fodor

 C 29 Mark II

 Hawk

 ___

 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
 like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
 Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 ___

 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
 like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
 Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
>>>

Stus-List Installing linear autohelm on LF38

2016-06-01 Thread Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List

Hi David, 

>From looking at the pictures on the 37+ it indeed looked like a factory 
setup.  I might just do it like that when the boat is on the hard for a 
bottom job / rig inspection in a year or 2. 

 I'd love to see the pictures on yours. 

PS: The pole is "Peachy" thanks for asking. I was able to free-up one jaw 
and ended-up replacing the other which I bought new old stock for a 
fraction of the price... 


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
lake Lanier, GA






Message: 2
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2016 09:48:52 -0700
From: "David Blair" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Installing linear autohelm on LF38
Message-ID: <018801d1bc25$7c286910$74793b30$@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi J-F.  Looking at your note. My 34+ has a nice shelf in the port locker
and the lever arm about3-4" below the deck level and radial drive. The 
glass
work looks like factory. I have a couple of pics somewhere if you are
interested.  By the way, did you ever get that spinnaker pole working? 
Ciao
Regards


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Re: Stus-List Arrival by private boat in the US bya "visa exempt" citizen

2016-06-01 Thread S Thomas via CnC-List

The American government is pretty extreme in its reporting requirements for 
visiting pleasure boats, especially that part about having to report every 
movement of the boat once in American waters. Can you imagine if they did that 
with cars? I seriously doubt that there are very many Americans who know about 
these requirements, let alone us dangerous foreigners with our 7 knot 
sailboats. 

The whole point in my getting a Nexus card was so that I would not normally 
have to report physically at a controlled point of entry. The border control 
people could insist on it at any time of course, but they normally don't. All 
of this was carefully laid out by the Nexus / Homeland Security / Canadian 
Border Services people when I got my card. If I understand the article 
correctly, this has now changed?

Steve.  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Baker via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Paul Baker 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2016 10:38
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Arrival by private boat in the US bya "visa exempt" 
citizen


  this might be 
useful.http://currents.bluewatercruising.org/articles/pleasure-boat-entry-us-new-process-2016/


--
  Date: Tue, 31 May 2016 15:05:25 -0600
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Arrival by private boat in the US by a "visa exempt" 
citizen
  From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  CC: anitteb...@yahoo.ca

  Arrival on a commercial vessel is a non issue. Private /charter boat seems to 
be the problem. Or did you mean to say you've gone back and forth n your own or 
charter boat?



  ___ This list is supported by the 
generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay 
for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 


--


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?

2016-06-01 Thread Neil Gallagher via CnC-List

Edd,

Weatherly came with two installed, one 4" in the deck forward, just aft
of the mooring cleat, and one 3" in the head. I've been really happy
with them, they do seem to keep the boat ventilated over the winter. I
had to replace both last season, the old Nico were stainless steel, new
are plastic, and don't seem quite as well made.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 6/1/2016 12:37 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

Listers,

After launching the Enterprise last week, we undertook a several-day
battle of cleaning up mold and mildew that formed over the winter
season. See:
https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-atTOVzKTiJ4/V070NXLN-NI/CbI/L4P1kYqh0DAJw5J-vDUC2nFRCCXe4OtHgCLcB/s1600/madkirk.jpg

It's time for one (or two) of those solar vent fans. The question I
have for the collective wisdom of the group is, if you have installed
them, where do you have them? How hard was it to install? I cringe at
the idea of drilling a 3-4 inch hole in the deck, but also am not
crazy about reducing natural light by putting one into a hatch. Any
ideas and experience is welcome.

... except for that guy who is not an engineer.

All the best,

Edd

Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

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Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

Agreed. I just like that someone has been testing the Loctite polyurethane

for the past 10 years, *above *and *below *the waterline. Quikcrete

and Loctite

are the same price point more or less. Take a look at the article. Good
read.

On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 9:32 AM S Thomas via CnC-List 
wrote:

> The Quikrete product is intended for buildings.
> Doesn't mean it won't work for other things.
>
>
> http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Paint-D%C3%A9cor/Maintenance/Concrete-Sealer-Supp/Cement-Acc/Miscellaneous/300mL-Grey-Self-Leveling-Polyurethane-Sealant/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN/R-I2622729?Ntt=self+leveling
>
> Steve.
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Kevin Driscoll 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 01, 2016 11:58
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
>
> Which one did you use Bettina? The article mentions Loctite PLS20, PLS 40,
> and but no Quikcrete. Looks like Loctite has also come out with a Marine
> version.
>
> Loctite Polyurethene here
> 
>
> Practical Sailor Article here
> 
>
> Thanks,
> Kevin
>
> On Mon, May 30, 2016 at 5:19 AM Persuasion37 via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks Bettina
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On May 29, 2016, at 11:44 PM, Bmue via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Mike,
>> Quikrete, polyurethane, self levelling
>> Bettina
>>
>> On May 28, 2016, at 10:46, Persuasion via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Bettina
>>
>> Just wondering what was the caulk you used along the toe rail.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Mike
>> PERSUASION
>> C 37 K/CB
>> Long Sault
>>
>> Sent from my Xperia™ tablet
>>
>>
>>  Bmue via CnC-List wrote 
>>
>> Ryan,
>> Nice job.
>> Re finishing the topside.
>> Just do it.
>>
>> We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull
>> battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige
>> or whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had
>> mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches
>> of old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip
>> left on the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"
>>
>> 3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of
>> the kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done)
>> and the boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during
>> launch and at the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple
>> of stanchions, fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes
>> in the cockpit.
>>
>> My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some cleats
>> and blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what is
>> set that fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some
>> "special" kiwigrip tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off
>> the roll and hot glueing it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch
>> on a Popsicle stick...worked like a charm in the areas where the roller
>> couldn't reach.
>>
>> The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever
>> painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have
>> a problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but
>> I think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to
>> apply and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it
>> feels safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the
>> rounded parts of the deck.
>>
>> Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by practical
>> sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along there,
>> but can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it . Good news,
>> after three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the
>> stuff somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left
>> the caulk to dry for a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last
>> time I was at the boat the sun finally baked the paint on?
>>
>> In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a
>> makeover. I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband
>> finally came around.
>>
>> Bettina
>>
>> C 25

Re: Stus-List Installing linear autohelm on LF38

2016-06-01 Thread S Thomas via CnC-List

I am looking at doing a similar install on my 36. 
The T shaped cockpit sure limits the room down there. 
Been looking online for a suitable (2 piece) tiller arm, but am coming around 
to the conclusion that I will have to make one. 
I am thinking that a 1 inch thick piece of aluminum might do it, or maybe a 
diesel engine piston rod, if I could find one the right size. I don't know 
where to get a piece of bronze that big, and the price would be probably be 
ridiculous anyway. 
Changing the idler plate on the steering was very cramped, especially doing the 
cables on the radius wheel.  

In retrospect I think that I would have liked a 35 better just for the reason 
of room to work below the cockpit. 
I don't see any way to get at the exhaust hose to through hull connection at 
all. 

Steve Thomas
C 36 (1980)
Merritt Island, FL

C MKIII (1978)
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
  To: csgilchr...@comcast.net 
  Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2016 10:45
  Subject: Stus-List Installing linear autohelm on LF38


  Hi Chuck,

  How about making a custom tiller arm that fits into the emergency tiller 
fitting above the radial drive? I saw that done online and thought that was 
rather clever.  I've also been mulling this over for a couple years now and 
that's the best "easy" solution I saw. 


  I have a similar situation where I would prefer a linear drive on my 34+ and 
for me there's no "Below deck" option as the radial drive sits over the cockpit 
floor under a cover in the pass through to the open stern swim ladder. The 
"correct" way involves dropping the rudder, cutting the tube below decks, 
slipping a tiller through, then custom glassing proper supports and shelving.. 
That's a pretty labor intensive project..  


  -Francois Rivard
  1990 34+ "Take Five"
  Lake Lanier, GA






--


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?

2016-06-01 Thread Edd Schillay via CnC-List

Dennis,

Love the idea, but my yard won’t let me keep the boat connected to AC power 
over the winter to run that. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






> On Jun 1, 2016, at 12:45 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Many of us have installed solar vents in the head.  I personally think that's 
> the best place.  Between the solar vent and one or two warm air circulators, 
> Touche' stays relatively mildew free.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Caframo-Limited-Stor-Dry-Warm-Circulator/dp/B0009L675W?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0
>  
> 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 11:37 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> Listers,
> 
> After launching the Enterprise last week, we undertook a several-day battle 
> of cleaning up mold and mildew that formed over the winter season. See: 
> https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-atTOVzKTiJ4/V070NXLN-NI/CbI/L4P1kYqh0DAJw5J-vDUC2nFRCCXe4OtHgCLcB/s1600/madkirk.jpg
>  
> 
>  
> 
> It’s time for one (or two) of those solar vent fans. The question I have for 
> the collective wisdom of the group is, if you have installed them, where do 
> you have them? How hard was it to install? I cringe at the idea of drilling a 
> 3-4 inch hole in the deck, but also am not crazy about reducing natural light 
> by putting one into a hatch. Any ideas and experience is welcome. 
> 
> … except for that guy who is not an engineer….. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

___

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Re: Stus-List Installing linear autohelm on LF38

2016-06-01 Thread David Blair via CnC-List

Hi J-F.  Looking at your note. My 34+ has a nice shelf in the port locker
and the lever arm about3-4" below the deck level and radial drive. The glass
work looks like factory. I have a couple of pics somewhere if you are
interested.  By the way, did you ever get that spinnaker pole working?  Ciao

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2016 7:45 AM
To: csgilchr...@comcast.net
Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Installing linear autohelm on LF38

 

Hi Chuck,

How about making a custom tiller arm that fits into the emergency tiller
fitting above the radial drive? I saw that done online and thought that was
rather clever.  I've also been mulling this over for a couple years now and
that's the best "easy" solution I saw. 


I have a similar situation where I would prefer a linear drive on my 34+ and
for me there's no "Below deck" option as the radial drive sits over the
cockpit floor under a cover in the pass through to the open stern swim
ladder. The "correct" way involves dropping the rudder, cutting the tube
below decks, slipping a tiller through, then custom glassing proper supports
and shelving.. That's a pretty labor intensive project..  


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?

Many of us have installed solar vents in the head.  I personally think
that's the best place.  Between the solar vent and one or two warm air
circulators, Touche' stays relatively mildew free.

https://www.amazon.com/Caframo-Limited-Stor-Dry-Warm-Circulator/dp/B0009L675W?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 11:37 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> After launching the Enterprise last week, we undertook a several-day
> battle of cleaning up mold and mildew that formed over the winter season.
> See:
> https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-atTOVzKTiJ4/V070NXLN-NI/CbI/L4P1kYqh0DAJw5J-vDUC2nFRCCXe4OtHgCLcB/s1600/madkirk.jpg
>
>
> It’s time for one (or two) of those solar vent fans. The question I have
> for the collective wisdom of the group is, if you have installed them,
> where do you have them? How hard was it to install? I cringe at the idea of
> drilling a 3-4 inch hole in the deck, but also am not crazy about reducing
> natural light by putting one into a hatch. Any ideas and experience is
> welcome.
>
> … except for that guy who is not an engineer…..
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden

We keep a small bottle of olive oil on Touche' to cook with.  Olive oil can
go rancid.  Every spring we buy a new bottle and the old bottle goes for
lubing the head.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 11:21 AM, IRVIN via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Once you get it working a periodic flush with vegetable oil will keep it
> lubed.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 1, 2016, at 6:51 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> If you're getting a little backflow from the joker valve, you may want to
> try running some household (white) vinegar through the system and leaving
> it to soak overnight.  Salt deposits build up on the valves and vinegar
> helps dissolve it.  It is a cheap and very much hands-off first option.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On May 31, 2016, at 9:10 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I just bought the rebuild kit for $72 at Jamestown Distributors (USD) but
> it seems the Thetford Headmate pump assembly is currently back ordered from
> those that are listing it on their websites.
>
> I get a slight amount of back flow if the head is pumped empty which I
> suspect is the joker valve either worn or not seating properly. Also, the
> handle doesn’t want to stay in the down position in either the empty or
> flush position, which makes me believe there is back pressure even when the
> intake side is shut.
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> S/V Half Magic
>
> 1983 LF 35
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Marek Dziedzic via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 31, 2016 6:50 PM
> *To:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> *Cc:* Marek Dziedzic 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden
>
>
>
> And it is almost cheaper, as well. I had just replaced a pump in my head
> and I paid $95 for the pump, and the repair kit was $85 (both CAD). It was
> a Jabsco, so not the same, but in the process I got a locking handle as a
> bonus.
>
>
>
> I made a mistake to remove the waste hose off the old pump. What a pain.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *May 31, 2016 16:35
> *To: *CnClist 
> *Cc: *Dennis C. 
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden
>
>
>
> You may want to consider a new pump assembly.  If it's a WC Head Mate
> 1460-C then the pump assembly should be Part 015461.
>
> There are a couple of benefits of replacing the entire pump assembly.
> Your old pump cylinder may be scored or worn.  It's usually quicker and
> easier than installing a rebuild kit.
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
>
> On Tue, May 31, 2016 at 1:49 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Trying to identify the correct toilet repair kit for my marine head on my
> C 29 Mark II 1984/85. It is clearly a Wilcox Crittenden. The pump is
> leaking fresh water out of the top when pumping and when heeled over there
> is significant backflow from the tank. :-( I'm pretty sure the joker valve
> is shot. Here's some pictures of the pump and head:
>
>
>
> https://goo.gl/photos/VrEo64B65gto2wU19
>
>
>
> The following kit looks like it's the right one.
>
>
>
>
> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/wilcox-crittenden--headmate-maintenance-kit--135301
>
>
>
> Has anyone else had experience repairing these? Does that look like the
> right kit?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Gene Fodor
>
> C 29 Mark II
>
> Hawk
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?

2016-06-01 Thread Edd Schillay via CnC-List

Listers,

After launching the Enterprise last week, we undertook a several-day battle of 
cleaning up mold and mildew that formed over the winter season. See: 
https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-atTOVzKTiJ4/V070NXLN-NI/CbI/L4P1kYqh0DAJw5J-vDUC2nFRCCXe4OtHgCLcB/s1600/madkirk.jpg
 

 

It’s time for one (or two) of those solar vent fans. The question I have for 
the collective wisdom of the group is, if you have installed them, where do you 
have them? How hard was it to install? I cringe at the idea of drilling a 3-4 
inch hole in the deck, but also am not crazy about reducing natural light by 
putting one into a hatch. Any ideas and experience is welcome. 

… except for that guy who is not an engineer….. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

2016-06-01 Thread S Thomas via CnC-List

The Quikrete product is intended for buildings.
Doesn't mean it won't work for other things.

http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Paint-D%C3%A9cor/Maintenance/Concrete-Sealer-Supp/Cement-Acc/Miscellaneous/300mL-Grey-Self-Leveling-Polyurethane-Sealant/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN/R-I2622729?Ntt=self+leveling

Steve.
- Original Message -
From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Driscoll
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2016 11:58
Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

Which one did you use Bettina? The article mentions Loctite PLS20, PLS 40,
and but no Quikcrete. Looks like Loctite has also come out with a Marine
version.

Loctite Polyurethene here
Practical Sailor Article here

Thanks,
Kevin

On Mon, May 30, 2016 at 5:19 AM Persuasion37 via CnC-List
wrote:

Thanks Bettina

Mike

Sent from my iPad

On May 29, 2016, at 11:44 PM, Bmue via CnC-List
wrote:

Hi Mike,
Quikrete, polyurethane, self levelling
Bettina

On May 28, 2016, at 10:46, Persuasion via CnC-List
wrote:

Hi Bettina

Just wondering what was the caulk you used along the toe rail.

Thanks
Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

Sent from my Xperia™ tablet

Bmue via CnC-List wrote

Ryan,
Nice job.
Re finishing the topside.
Just do it.

We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull
battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige or
whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had
mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches of
old repair work on the deck etc) In addition there was almost no grip left on
the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"

3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of
the kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done) and
the boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during launch and
at the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple of stanchions,
fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes in the cockpit.

My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some
cleats and blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what
is set that fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some
"special" kiwigrip tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off the
roll and hot glueing it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch on a
Popsicle stick...worked like a charm in the areas where the roller couldn't
reach.

The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever
painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have a
problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but I
think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to apply
and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it feels
safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the rounded parts of
the deck.

Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by
practical sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along
there, but can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it . Good news,
after three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the stuff
somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left the caulk to
dry for a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last time I was at the
boat the sun finally baked the paint on?

In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a
makeover. I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband
finally came around.

Bettina

C 25 Savannah

> On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
wrote:
>
> at

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This

Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden

2016-06-01 Thread IRVIN via CnC-List

Once you get it working a periodic flush with vegetable oil will keep it lubed.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 1, 2016, at 6:51 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> If you're getting a little backflow from the joker valve, you may want to try 
> running some household (white) vinegar through the system and leaving it to 
> soak overnight.  Salt deposits build up on the valves and vinegar helps 
> dissolve it.  It is a cheap and very much hands-off first option.
> 
> Tim
> 
> 
>> On May 31, 2016, at 9:10 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I just bought the rebuild kit for $72 at Jamestown Distributors (USD) but it 
>> seems the Thetford Headmate pump assembly is currently back ordered from 
>> those that are listing it on their websites.
>> I get a slight amount of back flow if the head is pumped empty which I 
>> suspect is the joker valve either worn or not seating properly. Also, the 
>> handle doesn’t want to stay in the down position in either the empty or 
>> flush position, which makes me believe there is back pressure even when the 
>> intake side is shut.
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>> S/V Half Magic
>> 1983 LF 35
>> Padanaram, MA
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
>> Dziedzic via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2016 6:50 PM
>> To: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>> Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden
>>  
>> And it is almost cheaper, as well. I had just replaced a pump in my head and 
>> I paid $95 for the pump, and the repair kit was $85 (both CAD). It was a 
>> Jabsco, so not the same, but in the process I got a locking handle as a 
>> bonus.
>>  
>> I made a mistake to remove the waste hose off the old pump. What a pain.
>>  
>> Marek
>>  
>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>>  
>> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
>> Sent: May 31, 2016 16:35
>> To: CnClist
>> Cc: Dennis C.
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden
>>  
>> You may want to consider a new pump assembly.  If it's a WC Head Mate 1460-C 
>> then the pump assembly should be Part 015461.
>> 
>> There are a couple of benefits of replacing the entire pump assembly.  Your 
>> old pump cylinder may be scored or worn.  It's usually quicker and easier 
>> than installing a rebuild kit. 
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>>  
>> On Tue, May 31, 2016 at 1:49 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Trying to identify the correct toilet repair kit for my marine head on my 
>> C 29 Mark II 1984/85. It is clearly a Wilcox Crittenden. The pump is 
>> leaking fresh water out of the top when pumping and when heeled over there 
>> is significant backflow from the tank. :-( I'm pretty sure the joker valve 
>> is shot. Here's some pictures of the pump and head:
>>  
>> https://goo.gl/photos/VrEo64B65gto2wU19
>>  
>> The following kit looks like it's the right one.
>>  
>> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/wilcox-crittenden--headmate-maintenance-kit--135301
>>  
>> Has anyone else had experience repairing these? Does that look like the 
>> right kit?
>>  
>> Thanks,
>>  
>> Gene Fodor
>> C 29 Mark II
>> Hawk
>> 
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>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>>  
>> ___
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>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
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> are greatly appreciated!
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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux