Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

I came across a sealant, for aluminum to stucco.  It meant to deal with 
'significant' movements.  I used to (temporarily) seal the head hatch, still 
holding up well after 2 years.  It was readily available at Home Depot, the 
tube is on the boat so I do not have the info.  The sealant is off-white, quite 
a reasonable match to the gelcoat.

Leslie.
Phoenix C 1983


On Tue, 3/28/17, Gary Russell via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+
 To: "C List" 
 Cc: "Gary Russell" 
 Date: Tuesday, March 28, 2017, 12:19 PM
 
 I'm
 guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows
 "work" significantly when the boat flexes and I
 doubt the sealant will work for long.  My previous owner
 tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That
 being said, DOW 795 is much better than the typical silicone
 and may work better than what the PO used.
 GaryS/V
 Kaylarah'90 C 37+East
 Greenwich, RI, USA
 ~~~_/)~~
 
 
 
 On
 Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
 
 wrote:
 Hello
 again everyone,
 Our C 37/40+ has
 a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights
 windows.  I have read up on the removal &
 re-installation process, and many seem to be recommending
 the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or similar). 
 
 I would
 like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing
 them for now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I
 intend to eventually replace them (say in 18 months or
 so), in the short term I simply want to stop all leaks so
 that we can prevent any further staining of the teak. 
 
 Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing
 this?  Should I simply attempt to carefully mask the
 fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and apply a
 bead of Dow 795?  
 Would it be better to
 apply a thin layer on the inside?  
 Or,
 am I guilty of wishful thinking?  
 Thanks!
 
 Bruce Whitmore
 
 (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
 bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
 
 __
 _
 
 
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our
 members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
 costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/
 stumurray
 
 
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the
 generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a
 contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Derek McLeod via CnC-List]

Hi,

I've read the other responses and while it would be best to do the job right, 
VHB and 795, and so on, I have had good luck with the 795. I used just 795 to 
replace my portlights two years ago and they have held up very well in Toronto 
where we get dramatic temperature variations from summer to winter. Since I am 
in Canada, it was cost prohibitive to get the correct thickness VHB, so I went 
with 795. 

My anecdotal evidence for a quick fix with the 795 was after sealing up the 
leaking windshield on my 2001 Jetta. I had the windshield replaced at one point 
by a mobile installer guy and eventually it developed a leak right above the 
drivers seat at the seam at the roof. I contemplated taking it in to a proper 
windshield shop but they didn't want to risk breaking it to remove it. A couple 
years later, after doing the portlights on the boat, I figured "Hmm, I still 
have a bunch of tubes of 795 - maybe that would fix that pesky leak." It's held 
up fine for at least a year and adhered to whatever was there with no real 
preparations other than masking the adjacent areas. My portlights had vertical 
cracks running through the acrylic, so sealing the edge wouldn't have helped, 
but if the leak is just at the edge, it could be worth a try. 

Derek McLeod 
1983 C 29-2, Aileron 
Toronto

> On Mar 28, 2017, at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore  wrote:
> 
> Hello again everyone,
> 
> Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights windows.  
> I have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many seem to be 
> recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or similar). 
> 
> I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them for 
> now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually replace 
> them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to stop all 
> leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.  
> 
> Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply 
> attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and 
> apply a bead of Dow 795? 
> 
> Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside? 
> 
> Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?  
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce

 

Any permanent leak replacement requires a removal / cleaning / new window / use 
a suitable sealer & adhesive such as Dow 795 or similar.  An interim solution 
is use 3M decorative tape (black??) and tape over the joint of window and cabin 
top.  We did this for several years and it stopped the leaks until we could do 
the permanent replacement.

 

Best of luck

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 12:05 PM
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

 

Hello again everyone,

 

Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights windows.  I 
have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many seem to be 
recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or similar).  

 

I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them for 
now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually replace 
them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to stop all 
leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.  

 

Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply 
attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and apply 
a bead of Dow 795?  

 

Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?  

 

Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?  

 

Thanks! 

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

HI Fred,
 I think the VHB thickness used most frequently is 0.090".  I believe
that thickness to be sufficient to allow movement of the acrylic without
cracking.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 8:03 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> An earlier lister talked about a port on his 37 cracking because of flex.
>   I too had that problem after a somewhat rough trip up the coast. My
> question is "would a thicker VBR tape allow greater flexing and prevent the
> port breaking." I believe 1/16" tape has be been recommended. Would 1/8"
> tape help?
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland, Or
>
> On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 3:42 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I think Frank was just referring to the fact that silicone calk and tape
>> of any type are only short sighted solutions and may even make the final
>> repair more difficult.  Silicone makes everything it touches nearly
>> impervious to any other adhesive or sealer in the future, and most tapes
>> will break down after a short period of time resulting in a messy residue
>> which will necessitate the used of a goo remover which may, like silicone,
>> make future adhesives ineffective.
>>
>> "Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip."
>>
>> The "right" way is generally accepted to be 3M VHB tape followed by Dow
>> 795 to seal the edges.  Mechanical fasteners would seemingly improve the
>> longevity of the seal but destroy the look and would likely prove to have
>> unforseen disadvantages.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>> On Mar 28, 2017 4:43 PM, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Okay, I’ll bite: what does it mean to “do the job right”?
>> Caulk/adhesive, mechanical fasteners, or both?
>>
>> *From:* Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:36 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Franklin Schenk 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C
>> 37/40+
>>
>> Bruce,
>>
>> Yes, it is mostly wishful thinking as some of us learned the hard way.
>> Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip.
>> Later you can do the job right and not have to remove any calk or tape.
>>
>> Frank
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 2:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I'm guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows "work" significantly
>> when the boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long.  My
>> previous owner tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That
>> being said, DOW 795 is much better than the typical silicone and may work
>> better than what the PO used.
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hello again everyone,
>>
>> Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights
>> windows.  I have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many
>> seem to be recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or
>> similar).
>>
>> I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them
>> for now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually
>> replace them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to
>> stop all leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.
>>
>> Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply
>> attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and
>> apply a bead of Dow 795?
>>
>> Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?
>>
>> Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>
>> __ _
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/
>> stumurray 
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> --
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> 

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

All,
 One unforeseen disadvantage is that any mechanical fastener creates a
stress concentration which will almost guarantee a crack will form in the
acrylic.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 6:42 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think Frank was just referring to the fact that silicone calk and tape
> of any type are only short sighted solutions and may even make the final
> repair more difficult.  Silicone makes everything it touches nearly
> impervious to any other adhesive or sealer in the future, and most tapes
> will break down after a short period of time resulting in a messy residue
> which will necessitate the used of a goo remover which may, like silicone,
> make future adhesives ineffective.
>
> "Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip."
>
> The "right" way is generally accepted to be 3M VHB tape followed by Dow
> 795 to seal the edges.  Mechanical fasteners would seemingly improve the
> longevity of the seal but destroy the look and would likely prove to have
> unforseen disadvantages.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Mar 28, 2017 4:43 PM, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Okay, I’ll bite: what does it mean to “do the job right”?  Caulk/adhesive,
> mechanical fasteners, or both?
>
> *From:* Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:36 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Franklin Schenk 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C
> 37/40+
>
> Bruce,
>
> Yes, it is mostly wishful thinking as some of us learned the hard way.
> Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip.
> Later you can do the job right and not have to remove any calk or tape.
>
> Frank
>
>
> On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 2:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> I'm guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows "work" significantly when
> the boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long.  My previous
> owner tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That being
> said, DOW 795 is much better than the typical silicone and may work better
> than what the PO used.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello again everyone,
>
> Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights
> windows.  I have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many
> seem to be recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or
> similar).
>
> I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them
> for now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually
> replace them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to
> stop all leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.
>
> Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply
> attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and
> apply a bead of Dow 795?
>
> Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?
>
> Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> __ _
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/
> stumurray 
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> --
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by 

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

An earlier lister talked about a port on his 37 cracking because of flex.
I too had that problem after a somewhat rough trip up the coast. My
question is "would a thicker VBR tape allow greater flexing and prevent the
port breaking." I believe 1/16" tape has be been recommended. Would 1/8"
tape help?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or

On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 3:42 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think Frank was just referring to the fact that silicone calk and tape
> of any type are only short sighted solutions and may even make the final
> repair more difficult.  Silicone makes everything it touches nearly
> impervious to any other adhesive or sealer in the future, and most tapes
> will break down after a short period of time resulting in a messy residue
> which will necessitate the used of a goo remover which may, like silicone,
> make future adhesives ineffective.
>
> "Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip."
>
> The "right" way is generally accepted to be 3M VHB tape followed by Dow
> 795 to seal the edges.  Mechanical fasteners would seemingly improve the
> longevity of the seal but destroy the look and would likely prove to have
> unforseen disadvantages.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Mar 28, 2017 4:43 PM, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Okay, I’ll bite: what does it mean to “do the job right”?  Caulk/adhesive,
> mechanical fasteners, or both?
>
> *From:* Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:36 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Franklin Schenk 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C
> 37/40+
>
> Bruce,
>
> Yes, it is mostly wishful thinking as some of us learned the hard way.
> Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip.
> Later you can do the job right and not have to remove any calk or tape.
>
> Frank
>
>
> On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 2:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> I'm guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows "work" significantly when
> the boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long.  My previous
> owner tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That being
> said, DOW 795 is much better than the typical silicone and may work better
> than what the PO used.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello again everyone,
>
> Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights
> windows.  I have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many
> seem to be recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or
> similar).
>
> I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them
> for now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually
> replace them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to
> stop all leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.
>
> Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply
> attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and
> apply a bead of Dow 795?
>
> Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?
>
> Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> __ _
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/
> stumurray 
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> --
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All 

Re: Stus-List Signet Depth Sounder Location on a C Landfall 38

[john sandford via CnC-List]

Hi Peter

On my LF 38 (1984) the Depth Sounder throughull is located under the fwd V 
Berth, just Aft of the water tank, Port side.

The knotmeter throughull is right next to it.

Its very tricky reaching in there, unless you have super skinny arms, twice the 
normal length.

Good luck

John

 

 

From: schu...@gmail.com [mailto:schu...@gmail.com] 
Sent: March-27-17 9:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Signet Depth Sounder Location on a C Landfall 38

 

I just hauled my boat out and had the bottom painted.  I asked the person 
providing the service to make sure that the Transducer was clear of paint and 
also if they could tell me the location.  The painter could not locate the 
transducer.  For the life of me I have not been able to find out where the 
transducer is located.  It is a Signet brand depth sounder and it came that way 
installed by the factory (I assume).  Maybe its not a through the hull 
transducer I don’t know.

 

If anyone has a similar set up or knows the location please let me email me.  
The depth sounder works intermittently and I would like to find out why.  I 
have not followed the wiring (grey) because there are a number of grey wires 
bundled together and tied with plastic ties.  I may have to do this sooner or 
later.

 

Thank you

Peter

 

Sent from Mail   for Windows 10

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I think Frank was just referring to the fact that silicone calk and tape of
any type are only short sighted solutions and may even make the final
repair more difficult.  Silicone makes everything it touches nearly
impervious to any other adhesive or sealer in the future, and most tapes
will break down after a short period of time resulting in a messy residue
which will necessitate the used of a goo remover which may, like silicone,
make future adhesives ineffective.

"Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip."

The "right" way is generally accepted to be 3M VHB tape followed by Dow 795
to seal the edges.  Mechanical fasteners would seemingly improve the
longevity of the seal but destroy the look and would likely prove to have
unforseen disadvantages.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Mar 28, 2017 4:43 PM, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Okay, I’ll bite: what does it mean to “do the job right”?  Caulk/adhesive,
mechanical fasteners, or both?

*From:* Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:36 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Franklin Schenk 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

Bruce,

Yes, it is mostly wishful thinking as some of us learned the hard way.
Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip.
Later you can do the job right and not have to remove any calk or tape.

Frank


On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 2:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


I'm guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows "work" significantly when
the boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long.  My previous
owner tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That being
said, DOW 795 is much better than the typical silicone and may work better
than what the PO used.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hello again everyone,

Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights
windows.  I have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many
seem to be recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or
similar).

I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them
for now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually
replace them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to
stop all leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.

Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply
attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and
apply a bead of Dow 795?

Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?

Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?

Thanks!

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

__ _

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/
stumurray 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


--
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Signet Depth Sounder Location on a C Landfall 38

[Peter via CnC-List]

Thank you Ron.  I will look as you suggest and hopefully will find the 
transducer.

Peter

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Ron Ricci
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2017 6:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: schu...@gmail.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List Signet Depth Sounder Location on a C Landfall 38

Peter,

I used to have a Signet depth sounder on my 37+.  The transducer was located 
just aft of the forward cabin bulkhead on the port side.  There was also a 
speed sensor right next to it.  My guess is there is something on one side of 
the forward part of the keel.

Do many other listers still use Signet Marine equipment?  I have all sorts of 
stuff I’ve been meaning to put on Ebay.   

Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2017 8:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: schu...@gmail.com
Subject: Stus-List Signet Depth Sounder Location on a C Landfall 38

I just hauled my boat out and had the bottom painted.  I asked the person 
providing the service to make sure that the Transducer was clear of paint and 
also if they could tell me the location.  The painter could not locate the 
transducer.  For the life of me I have not been able to find out where the 
transducer is located.  It is a Signet brand depth sounder and it came that way 
installed by the factory (I assume).  Maybe its not a through the hull 
transducer I don’t know.

If anyone has a similar set up or knows the location please let me email me.  
The depth sounder works intermittently and I would like to find out why.  I 
have not followed the wiring (grey) because there are a number of grey wires 
bundled together and tied with plastic ties.  I may have to do this sooner or 
later.

Thank you
Peter

Sent from Mail for Windows 10


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Sealing fixed port lights 37/40+

[Mitchell's via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce, 
I had the thin bow end of the fixed light snap or crack vertically while away 
from the dock on vacation. It leaked when it rained and that was when I 
actually noticed the crack. I was able to use a thick layer of clear silicone 
to temporarily stop the leak. I used tape on each side of the crack to provide 
a clean edge while applying the silicone. It worked but it's temporary. You may 
get 18 months out of it but if it started to crack it will continue and you may 
have to completely remove the old silicone and reapply. I am redoing my fixed 
ports this summer. (The south sunny side of the boat cracked first!) Good luck, 
Len
S/V Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On. 

Sent from my mobile device. 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Okay, I’ll bite: what does it mean to “do the job right”?  Caulk/adhesive, 
mechanical fasteners, or both?

From: Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Franklin Schenk 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

Bruce,


Yes, it is mostly wishful thinking as some of us learned the hard way.  Unless 
you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip.  Later you can 
do the job right and not have to remove any calk or tape.


Frank



On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 2:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 wrote:




I'm guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows "work" significantly when the 
boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long.  My previous owner 
tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That being said, DOW 795 
is much better than the typical silicone and may work better than what the PO 
used. 

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~



On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Hello again everyone,

  Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights windows.  
I have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many seem to be 
recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or similar).  

  I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them for 
now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually replace 
them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to stop all 
leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.  

  Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply 
attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and apply 
a bead of Dow 795?  

  Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?  

  Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?  

  Thanks! 


  Bruce Whitmore

  (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  __ _

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray

  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!







___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Bruce,
Yes, it is mostly wishful thinking as some of us learned the hard way.  Unless 
you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip.  Later you can 
do the job right and not have to remove any calk or tape.
Frank 

On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 2:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 I'm guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows "work" significantly when the 
boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long.  My previous owner 
tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That being said, DOW 795 
is much better than the typical silicone and may work better than what the PO 
used.
GaryS/V Kaylarah'90 C 37+East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello again everyone,
Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights windows.  I 
have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many seem to be 
recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or similar).  
I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them for 
now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually replace 
them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to stop all 
leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.  
Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply 
attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and apply 
a bead of Dow 795?  
Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?  
Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?  
Thanks! 
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

__ _

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/ 
stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


   ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1994 C 37/40+ Rudder post grease cap or zerk?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

My earlier '89 never had the storage box, instead just an access cover.
The PO had removed the 4 screws in the corners of the cover.  It stays in
place really well so I've never seen it necessary to replace them. I can
pull the cover and then squeeze pretty much all the way back.  The PO cut
the rudder tube to accommodate the auto pilot arm so here's some pictures.
I have a zirc in the top half and one in the bottom.  In retrospect I wish
I had considered the water level outside.  I would have put the bottom zirc
a little higher.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yZU1hczd0QlNEOWc

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mar 28, 2017 11:42 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Our previous C, a 1977 27 MKIII had a grease cap on the rudder post by
> which I could grease the rudder shaft.   It took me a few years of
> ownership to notice it, but when I did, and subsequently greased the shaft,
> the resulting improvement in the ease of steering was immediately
> noticeable.  And, that boat was in fresh water!
>
> I have not seen a similar cap on our new (to us) boat.  Is there a cap or
> zerk by which we can apply grease to the shaft on a 1994 C  37/40+?
>
> Thanks for your guidance!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1994 C 37/40+ Rudder post grease cap or zerk?

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

HI Bruce,
   I installed one fitting inline above the other, but I don't recall the
vertical distance between them or the deck.  I did go at it though the back
of the stern berth as you suggest.

Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 3:26 PM, bwhitmore--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Gary,
>
>  Excellent insight.  I'm not on the boat at the moment, so forgive the
> basic question.  I'm assuming you removed the storage box at the aft of the
> stern berth and drilled the holes high up in the rudder shaft tube close to
> the bottomside of the deck, correct?  Or is there somewhere more accessible
> I'm not considering?
>
> As for 2 holes zerks, just 180 degrees offstage fom one another, or did
> you place one high and one lower?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce
>
>
>
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
> Date: 3/28/2017 3:09 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: C List 
> Cc: Gary Russell 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1994 C 37/40+ Rudder post grease cap or zerk?
>
> I drilled two holes in my rudder post with the rudder still in place.  I
> simply drilled the hole in the relatively soft fiberglass post until I felt
> the drill hit the harder stainless post.  I then ground the tip of the
> drill square so I could be sure the drill went full depth at the full
> diameter.  I then tapped the two holes for two zerk fittings.  Voila!  The
> rudder was smooth and quiet.  The whole job took less than 15 minutes.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 11:41 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> Our previous C, a 1977 27 MKIII had a grease cap on the rudder post by
>> which I could grease the rudder shaft.   It took me a few years of
>> ownership to notice it, but when I did, and subsequently greased the shaft,
>> the resulting improvement in the ease of steering was immediately
>> noticeable.  And, that boat was in fresh water!
>>
>> I have not seen a similar cap on our new (to us) boat.  Is there a cap or
>> zerk by which we can apply grease to the shaft on a 1994 C  37/40+?
>>
>> Thanks for your guidance!
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Windlass placement

[David Blair via CnC-List]

Excellent pics and step by step. I am thinking through the same process for
my 34+. When I reviewed the build file for my boat I found that C had put
some sort of high strength synthetic reinforcement in place of the balsa for
about a foot back of the hatch, so hopefully sealing core will not be
required.  Thanks.  Ciao

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dreuge
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2017 12:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass placement

 

Sorry, here is the direct link:

 

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2016/08/windlass-installation.html

 

 

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

 

On Mar 27, 2017, at 3:21 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

 

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2017 12:51:46 -0500
From: Frederick G Street <  f...@postaudio.net>
To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass placement
Message-ID: < 
765d7fd3-fb2d-43db-8715-b4965e1d9...@postaudio.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Paul ? I?d like to see your install photos; but the link below doesn?t let
me in.

? Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1994 C 37/40+ Rudder post grease cap or zerk?

[bwhitmore--- via CnC-List]

Hi Gary,
 Excellent insight.  I'm not on the boat at the moment, so forgive the basic 
question.  I'm assuming you removed the storage box at the aft of the stern 
berth and drilled the holes high up in the rudder shaft tube close to the 
bottomside of the deck, correct?  Or is there somewhere more accessible I'm not 
considering? 
As for 2 holes zerks, just 180 degrees offstage fom one another, or did you 
place one high and one lower? 
Thanks!
Bruce 


Sent from Samsung tablet.

 Original message 
From: Gary Russell via CnC-List  
Date: 3/28/2017  3:09 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: C List  
Cc: Gary Russell  
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1994 C 37/40+ Rudder post grease cap or zerk? 

I drilled two holes in my rudder post with the rudder still in place.  I simply 
drilled the hole in the relatively soft fiberglass post until I felt the drill 
hit the harder stainless post.  I then ground the tip of the drill square so I 
could be sure the drill went full depth at the full diameter.  I then tapped 
the two holes for two zerk fittings.  Voila!  The rudder was smooth and quiet.  
The whole job took less than 15 minutes.
GaryS/V Kaylarah'90 C 37+East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~



On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 11:41 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Hello all,
Our previous C, a 1977 27 MKIII had a grease cap on the rudder post by which 
I could grease the rudder shaft.   It took me a few years of ownership to 
notice it, but when I did, and subsequently greased the shaft, the resulting 
improvement in the ease of steering was immediately noticeable.  And, that boat 
was in fresh water!
I have not seen a similar cap on our new (to us) boat.  Is there a cap or zerk 
by which we can apply grease to the shaft on a 1994 C  37/40+?
Thanks for your guidance!
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

___



This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I'm guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows "work" significantly when
the boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long.  My previous
owner tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That being
said, DOW 795 is much better than the typical silicone and may work better
than what the PO used.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello again everyone,
>
> Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights
> windows.  I have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many
> seem to be recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or
> similar).
>
> I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them
> for now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually
> replace them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to
> stop all leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.
>
> Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply
> attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and
> apply a bead of Dow 795?
>
> Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?
>
> Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1994 C 37/40+ Rudder post grease cap or zerk?

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I drilled two holes in my rudder post with the rudder still in place.  I
simply drilled the hole in the relatively soft fiberglass post until I felt
the drill hit the harder stainless post.  I then ground the tip of the
drill square so I could be sure the drill went full depth at the full
diameter.  I then tapped the two holes for two zerk fittings.  Voila!  The
rudder was smooth and quiet.  The whole job took less than 15 minutes.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 11:41 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Our previous C, a 1977 27 MKIII had a grease cap on the rudder post by
> which I could grease the rudder shaft.   It took me a few years of
> ownership to notice it, but when I did, and subsequently greased the shaft,
> the resulting improvement in the ease of steering was immediately
> noticeable.  And, that boat was in fresh water!
>
> I have not seen a similar cap on our new (to us) boat.  Is there a cap or
> zerk by which we can apply grease to the shaft on a 1994 C  37/40+?
>
> Thanks for your guidance!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello again everyone,
Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights windows.  I 
have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many seem to be 
recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or similar).  
I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them for 
now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually replace 
them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to stop all 
leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.  
Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply 
attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and apply 
a bead of Dow 795?  
Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?  
Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?  
Thanks! 
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1994 C 37/40+ Rudder post grease cap or zerk?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

When my rudder was out, I drilled and tapped holes for zirc fittings.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Mar 28, 2017, 11:42 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Our previous C, a 1977 27 MKIII had a grease cap on the rudder post by
> which I could grease the rudder shaft.   It took me a few years of
> ownership to notice it, but when I did, and subsequently greased the shaft,
> the resulting improvement in the ease of steering was immediately
> noticeable.  And, that boat was in fresh water!
>
> I have not seen a similar cap on our new (to us) boat.  Is there a cap or
> zerk by which we can apply grease to the shaft on a 1994 C  37/40+?
>
> Thanks for your guidance!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List 1994 C 37/40+ Rudder post grease cap or zerk?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
Our previous C, a 1977 27 MKIII had a grease cap on the rudder post by which 
I could grease the rudder shaft.   It took me a few years of ownership to 
notice it, but when I did, and subsequently greased the shaft, the resulting 
improvement in the ease of steering was immediately noticeable.  And, that boat 
was in fresh water!
I have not seen a similar cap on our new (to us) boat.  Is there a cap or zerk 
by which we can apply grease to the shaft on a 1994 C  37/40+?
Thanks for your guidance!
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Windlass placement

[Allen Miles via CnC-List]

I too am considering adding a windlass to ease retrieving the heavier
anchor on my 30-2.  It appears to me that C used a standard forward
hatch/ chain locker assembly on their boats.  Am I correct in that
observation?  If so, is there also a windlass configuration where the
entire unit is mounted on the locker?

Allen
C 30-2
Septima

On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 12:20 PM, jacob fuerst via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Currently I do not have a windlass on the boat. The anchor locker and lid
> takes up the entire bow beyond the vberth.
>
> In order to place the vertical rope to chain windlass on the deck requires
> placing it above the vberth and running a channel for the rode back into
> the locker. Additionally this would mean cutting into the liner inside.
>
> There are holes in the bulkhead where there appears to have been a shelf
> bolted inside the anchor locker but going only to that seems very weak. I'm
> thinking now of reinforcing the bulkhead and sort of glassing it into the
> sides and then bolting a frame to set the windlass on and it would be fully
> contained within the locker.
>
> Has anyone been through this or have suggestions or notes of caution?
>
> Jacob Fuerst
> '78 C 36
> Ventura, CA
> 303-520-4669 <(303)%20520-4669>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!