Re: Stus-List C 24 Portholes

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I have a total of 6 of the old style aluminum frame windows on my two boat, so 
I made sure I saved the “recipe” for resealing the portlights for future 
reference.

 

Rule 1: never touch the aluminum frame, you will create a leak

 

Between the frame and the window you will need a seal. In 2016 the list 
recommended the following:

Frost King V25BK EPDM weatherstripping

M-D Building Products 01025 D Profile Auto and Marine Weatherstripping

The MD Building Products stuff is available at Home Depot or Lowes, and a 25 
foot long box is pretty cheap – maybe $10.

 

For the window panels I went to a local shop that repairs storm doors and had 
them use an old window panel as s template to make new windows. I used ¼” cast 
plexi in a fairly dark color (bronze?) because they had several sheets in stock 
already and would not need to order a full sheet for a darker color.

 

The window goes on top of the weatherstripping seal, and is held in place by a 
rubber strip called a spline. Spline material is available at any glass shop 
that fixes storm doors and/or storm windows. I took a 6” snippet of old spline 
to a local shop and bought 10 or 12 feet for less than a dollar a foot last 
time I needed some. I also found it on EBay but would have needed to buy a 100 
foot roll. Cheap but who need a 3 lifetime supply of window spline?

 

When installing the seal and the spline, start at the top center of the frame 
with a smooth square cut end. Go around the frame making sure you get into the 
corners and making sure you do not stretch the material. I use a tongue 
depresser/popsickle stick to push the spline into the slot between plexi and 
frame – pushing “back” in the direction you are coming from to help ensure not 
stretching the material. When you get back to the top center of the frame make 
a tight joint and you should never have a leak. As the spline ages and oxidizes 
it will shrink and eventually pull out  of the corners, and you can just 
replace the spline.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug Ellmore 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2018 3:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Ellmore 
Subject: Stus-List C 24 Portholes

 

Before the snow started today, we got the old portholes out with the leaky 
lenses.  I have new lenses from another C 24 owner he never used before he 
crushed the boat.

 

So, I have to get all the goup and junk off the frames, get them clean.   Then 
figure out how to install properly.  

 

We put a tarp over the cabin to keep it dry with the snow and rain.

 

Looking at what was done by the last installer, does not look correct.  Go 
figure!

 



-- 

Doug Ellmore, Sr.

d...@ellmore.net  

 

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Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Likewise Bill, no offense intended.  None taken.  I had to develop
practices and habits myself to prevent burning up my engine.  I thought
that someone else would appreciate some of my solutions.

Josh

On Feb 17, 2018 10:43 PM, "coltrek via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Josh, I did not mean to slam you in any way. My point is simply this:
>  I just think it's better to prevent, than to treat a problem.
> There isn't a hose on my boat below the water line that I can't look at
> with confidence and walk away. If I felt I had to close the through hull
> for any reason,  I would want to know why, and fix it.. That's all.
>
> Bill Coleman
> C 39
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> Date: 2/17/18 22:06 (GMT-05:00)
> To: C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal
>
> For anybody concerned about burning up the engine.  We hang the key on the
> through hull.
>
> We also got a SpeedSeal Life and a Globe Run Dry impeller.
>
> http://www.speedseal.com/SpeedsealLife/SpeedsealLife.html
>
> https://www.gcsmarine.com/content/impellers/impellers
>
> As for the warm beer... I can only advocate for the merits of an air
> cooled refrigerator.
>
> Josh
>
>
> On Feb 17, 2018 9:44 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I am so flakey, I know that if I closed all my through hulls I would
> invariably forget to open them, and either burn up my engine,  have warm
> beer, or some other malady , so I just put new hoses on and check the
> clamps.
>
> Which isn’t a bad idea anyway.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C 39 Erie, PA
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, February 17, 2018 4:45 PM
> *To:* C List
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal
>
>
>
> As for old hoses that's why it is so important to close your through hulls
> when away from the boat.
>
>
>
> Josh
>
>
>
> On Feb 17, 2018 4:32 PM, "Len Mitchell via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I installed a drip less shaft seal about 7 or 8 years ago when I replaced
> my cutlass bearing. Like Josh said I opted to not install the vent hose, it
> came with a nylon plug. It has worked flawlessly. I burp the air out on
> launch and if I get air bubbles in the hose for any reason I can clearly
> hear a chirping noise and burp it again but that is infrequent if at all. I
> know they are supposed to be replaced as a precaution but I inspect it
> often and it looks like new. The motor seldom gets used other than to clear
> the dock so it hasn’t got many hours on it. If I were doing it again, I
> would just replace the hose and use new packing. Like others have said, the
> shaft seal isn’t the only source of water in the bilge so fwiw I wouldn’t
> bother if I were doing it again.
>
>
>
> BUT many of us have 30+ year old boats with the original rubber stuffing
> box hose plus other old hoses. You have to ask yourself do you trust $5
> worth of old rubber hose to hold the water out? *Crazy Legs* has 3 sink
> drains, 2 sea water intakes plus the stuffing box. Don’t forget the old
> rubber poo hose and fuel hose! Put your hand up if you have original rubber
> hose somewhere! Check yours out, mine had cracks along the surface of the
> hoses and I wasn’t comfortable leaving it that way.
>
>
>
> Len Mitchell
>
> SV *Crazy Legs*
>
> 1989 37 +
>
> Midland On
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Josh, I did not mean to slam you in any way. My point is simply this: I just 
think it's better to prevent, than to treat a problem. There isn't a hose on my 
boat below the water line that I can't look at with confidence and walk away. 
If I felt I had to close the through hull for any reason,  I would want to know 
why, and fix it.. That's all.
Bill ColemanC 39

 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
Date: 2/17/18  22:06  (GMT-05:00) 
To: C List  
Cc: Josh Muckley  
Subject: Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal 

For anybody concerned about burning up the engine.  We hang the key on the 
through hull.
We also got a SpeedSeal Life and a Globe Run Dry impeller. 
http://www.speedseal.com/SpeedsealLife/SpeedsealLife.html

https://www.gcsmarine.com/content/impellers/impellers

As for the warm beer... I can only advocate for the merits of an air cooled 
refrigerator.
Josh

On Feb 17, 2018 9:44 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List"  
wrote:













I am so flakey, I know that if I closed all my through hulls I
would invariably forget to open them, and either burn up my engine,  have warm
beer, or some other malady , so I just put new hoses on and check the clamps.

Which isn’t a bad idea anyway.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 



From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via
CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2018 4:45 PM

To: C List

Cc: Josh Muckley

Subject: Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal



 



As for old hoses that's why it is so important to close your
through hulls when away from the boat.



 





Josh 







 



On Feb 17, 2018 4:32 PM, "Len Mitchell via
CnC-List" 
wrote:



I installed a drip less shaft seal about 7 or 8 years ago
when I replaced my cutlass bearing. Like Josh said I opted to not install the
vent hose, it came with a nylon plug. It has worked flawlessly. I burp the air
out on launch and if I get air bubbles in the hose for any reason I can clearly
hear a chirping noise and burp it again but that is infrequent if at all. I
know they are supposed to be replaced as a precaution but I inspect it often
and it looks like new. The motor seldom gets used other than to clear the dock 
so
it hasn’t got many hours on it. If I were doing it again, I would just replace
the hose and use new packing. Like others have said, the shaft seal isn’t the
only source of water in the bilge so fwiw I wouldn’t bother if I were doing it
again. 



 





BUT many of us have 30+ year old boats with the original
rubber stuffing box hose plus other old hoses. You have to ask yourself do you
trust $5 worth of old rubber hose to hold the water out? Crazy Legs has
3 sink drains, 2 sea water intakes plus the stuffing box. Don’t forget the old
rubber poo hose and fuel hose! Put your hand up if you have original rubber
hose somewhere! Check yours out, mine had cracks along the surface of the hoses
and I wasn’t comfortable leaving it that way. 





 





Len Mitchell 





SV Crazy Legs





1989 37 +





Midland On



Sent from my iPad









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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray






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Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

You’re right Josh. The purpose of the vent is to eliminate the need to “burp” 
the air out of the shaft log when you splash the boat. And since the shaft log 
is not under pressure, other than the fact that it is a foot or two below the 
waterline, if the end of the tube is above the heeled water line there should 
be no water siphoned through it into the bilge.

 

How do I know this? I had a friend with an older Benneteau that had a 
“generation 1” PYI seal (no vent tube). His bilge was so dry he put spider 
spray into the bilge to fight the cobwebs, and I was pretty impressed.

 

When he sold the Benny (which was 15-20 years old with the original seal), he 
wanted to install a PYI seal in the replacement boat.  The new seal was a 
“generation 2” with vent. He called PYI and they told him that the primary 
failure mode for the early seals was that owners did not burp them and ensure 
the log was full of water. The water cools the seal and, I suspect, provides a 
little lubrication.

 

A PYI seal is on the project list for Imzadi, when I  finally need to replace 
my current packing in a few years.

 

What I have now is a “dripless moldable packing” sold by Western Pacific 
Trading, Inc. (phone 800-944-3501). The kit has some “Playdough-like” material 
with Teflon in it, and a lubricating liquid. You put one wrap of conventional 
packing into the bottom of the stuffing box (to keep the “playdough” from 
extruding when you tighten the box). Then you roll a hunk of playdough into a 
string, dip it into the lube, and wrap it around the shaft until the stuffing 
box is almost full. Top it off with another wrap of packing to stop extrusion, 
and tighten up the stuffing box until it does not drip. 

 

My first installation was in 2004 and it was dripless until a spin halyard went 
overboard and caused a bent shaft in 2011. When I replaced the shaft I put in 
new packing on general principals. While the boat was out of the water at the 
end of 2016 I messed with the prop and replaced the cutlass bearing, and when 
the boat went back in the water it dripped a bit. Suspect we disturbed the seal 
when messing with the shaft. Tightened the stuffing box and no more leak. 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2018 1:45 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley muckleyj@gmail.combroke   
Subject: Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

 

I forgot but someone else has mentioned in the past that the vent isn't even 
really necessary.  Just burp the seal after each relaunch.

 

You can eliminate the vent by plugging the hole with a small brass pipe plug. 

 

Josh 

 

 

 

On Feb 16, 2018 9:06 PM, "Brien Sadler via CnC-List"  > wrote:


Has anyone changed to a PSS dripless stuffing box? I’m sold on the switch I 
just haven’t figured out how I’m going to run the vent line yet. Any 
suggestions would be great. Preliminary plan is to run it to a very small 
through hull at the top of the transom.

Thanks,

Brien


Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

For anybody concerned about burning up the engine.  We hang the key on the
through hull.

We also got a SpeedSeal Life and a Globe Run Dry impeller.

http://www.speedseal.com/SpeedsealLife/SpeedsealLife.html

https://www.gcsmarine.com/content/impellers/impellers

As for the warm beer... I can only advocate for the merits of an air cooled
refrigerator.

Josh


On Feb 17, 2018 9:44 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" 
wrote:

I am so flakey, I know that if I closed all my through hulls I would
invariably forget to open them, and either burn up my engine,  have warm
beer, or some other malady , so I just put new hoses on and check the
clamps.

Which isn’t a bad idea anyway.



Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA



*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
*Sent:* Saturday, February 17, 2018 4:45 PM
*To:* C List
*Cc:* Josh Muckley
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal



As for old hoses that's why it is so important to close your through hulls
when away from the boat.



Josh



On Feb 17, 2018 4:32 PM, "Len Mitchell via CnC-List" 
wrote:

I installed a drip less shaft seal about 7 or 8 years ago when I replaced
my cutlass bearing. Like Josh said I opted to not install the vent hose, it
came with a nylon plug. It has worked flawlessly. I burp the air out on
launch and if I get air bubbles in the hose for any reason I can clearly
hear a chirping noise and burp it again but that is infrequent if at all. I
know they are supposed to be replaced as a precaution but I inspect it
often and it looks like new. The motor seldom gets used other than to clear
the dock so it hasn’t got many hours on it. If I were doing it again, I
would just replace the hose and use new packing. Like others have said, the
shaft seal isn’t the only source of water in the bilge so fwiw I wouldn’t
bother if I were doing it again.



BUT many of us have 30+ year old boats with the original rubber stuffing
box hose plus other old hoses. You have to ask yourself do you trust $5
worth of old rubber hose to hold the water out? *Crazy Legs* has 3 sink
drains, 2 sea water intakes plus the stuffing box. Don’t forget the old
rubber poo hose and fuel hose! Put your hand up if you have original rubber
hose somewhere! Check yours out, mine had cracks along the surface of the
hoses and I wasn’t comfortable leaving it that way.



Len Mitchell

SV *Crazy Legs*

1989 37 +

Midland On

Sent from my iPad


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Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I am so flakey, I know that if I closed all my through hulls I would invariably 
forget to open them, and either burn up my engine,  have warm beer, or some 
other malady , so I just put new hoses on and check the clamps.

Which isn’t a bad idea anyway.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2018 4:45 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal

 

As for old hoses that's why it is so important to close your through hulls when 
away from the boat.

 

Josh 

 

On Feb 17, 2018 4:32 PM, "Len Mitchell via CnC-List"  
wrote:

I installed a drip less shaft seal about 7 or 8 years ago when I replaced my 
cutlass bearing. Like Josh said I opted to not install the vent hose, it came 
with a nylon plug. It has worked flawlessly. I burp the air out on launch and 
if I get air bubbles in the hose for any reason I can clearly hear a chirping 
noise and burp it again but that is infrequent if at all. I know they are 
supposed to be replaced as a precaution but I inspect it often and it looks 
like new. The motor seldom gets used other than to clear the dock so it hasn’t 
got many hours on it. If I were doing it again, I would just replace the hose 
and use new packing. Like others have said, the shaft seal isn’t the only 
source of water in the bilge so fwiw I wouldn’t bother if I were doing it 
again. 

 

BUT many of us have 30+ year old boats with the original rubber stuffing box 
hose plus other old hoses. You have to ask yourself do you trust $5 worth of 
old rubber hose to hold the water out? Crazy Legs has 3 sink drains, 2 sea 
water intakes plus the stuffing box. Don’t forget the old rubber poo hose and 
fuel hose! Put your hand up if you have original rubber hose somewhere! Check 
yours out, mine had cracks along the surface of the hoses and I wasn’t 
comfortable leaving it that way. 

 

Len Mitchell 

SV Crazy Legs

1989 37 +

Midland On

Sent from my iPad


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Re: Stus-List C 24 Portholes

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Sorry Eric, I only know of the Canadian suppliers.

I have heard of some listers taking a piece of the spline to a glass shop and 
matching it up with their stock.

Anyone in MA. know where Eric can get the spline?

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric Frank 
via CnC-List
Sent: February-17-18 18:02
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Eric Frank
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 24 Portholes

 

Rick,

The windows on Cat’s Paw (CC35 MkII) also need to be reset.  Do you know of a 
supplier in the US? Doesn’t have to be close to Boston, but someplace easy to 
order from for US sailors. 

 

Thanks, Eric 

Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA 

 

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

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Re: Stus-List C 24 Portholes

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Rick,
The windows on Cat’s Paw (CC35 MkII) also need to be reset.  Do you know of a 
supplier in the US? Doesn’t have to be close to Boston, but someplace easy to 
order from for US sailors. 

Thanks, Eric 
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal

[David Castor via CnC-List]

A nice sailboat sank at the dock here a couple of years ago due to failure
of a galley sink drain connection.

I've gotten religion regarding closing of thru-hulls.

Cheers,

Dave

On Sat, Feb 17, 2018 at 2:54 PM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’m a firm believer in shutting the through hulls every time I leave the
> boat. Probably the submariner in me that doesn’t like to expose piping to
> sea pressure when I can let a valve take the brunt of it. Always a
> “straight board”.
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal

[Brien Sadler via CnC-List]

I’m a firm believer in shutting the through hulls every time I leave the boat. 
Probably the submariner in me that doesn’t like to expose piping to sea 
pressure when I can let a valve take the brunt of it. Always a “straight board”.

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Battery power

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

One way to make your batteries last longer and still guarantee starting in
the morning is to go to a dedicated start battery and combine the existing
pair into one house bank. Your depth of discharge will be much less for a
given draw, so the house batteries last much longer, and if you wire it
right you will never draw your starting battery down. I have 3 Group 31's
in my house bank (345 AH) and a Group 24 starting battery. The starting
battery dates from the purchase of the boat, so 12 years; it's time to
replace it.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 12 February 2018 at 20:23, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> One thing that should not be overlooked is that your big alternator could
> hardly ever be used at full power. Your batteries won’t absorb even half of
> that in the last 20% of the charging capacity. Since you have solar, you
> can use it for long (and slow) final charging. Also, your alternator may
> quite easily overheat if used at full power over longer time and without
> good cooling.
>
>
>
> I might be stating the obvious, but if you don’t have the time or capacity
> to fully charge your batteries, you should really consider that what you
> have available is roughly 30% of your (current or real (vs. the nominal))
> battery capacity (between 50% and 80% of SOC).
>
>
>
> Another obvious thing is to make sure that for a large capacity alternator
> you have an external regulator with proper temperature sending and that
> your v-belt can drive it (serpentine or double).
>
>
>
> Just a few thoughts
>
>
>
> Marek
>
> 1994 C270 “legato”
>
> Ottawa
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *Monday, February 12, 2018 17:44
> *To: *C List 
> *Cc: *Josh Muckley 
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Battery power
>
>
>
> First, I completely agree with everyone else about amp hours and meters
> and the sort.
>
>
>
> But
>
>
>
> Just looking at the voltage, the easiest way is to think of the available
> capacity as 1 volt from 11.7v to 12.7v.  Each 0.1 (tenth) of a volt is
> roughly equal to 10% of usable capacity.
>
>
>
> *Long winded explanation:*
>
> This is actually pretty conservative since minimum voltage of a dead
> battery is 10.5v (0%)  Full is 12.7v (100%).  A difference of 2.2v battery
> service life (think warranty or years before replacement) decreases
> exponentially the further discharged you get.  Normally a service life
> measurement is based on 50% discharge cycles.  Imagine that the battery is
> rated for 200 cycles @ 50% for its entire life.  That number might drop to
> 100 cycles @ 70%, and increase to 400 @ 20%.  Because of all of this, *the
> typical recommendation is to minimize depth of discharge overall but to
> absolutely avoid discharging deeper than 50%*.  Using the assumption of a
> linear relationship of 2.2v between 0% and 100% we can extrapolate that our
> 50% minimum to 100% is equal to 1.1v.  Since its just easier to say one
> volt, and 12.7v is easy to associate with 11.7v.  I come full circle to the
> 10% = 0.1v.
>
>
>
> Did I explain that well enough?
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Feb 12, 2018 3:02 PM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> This discussion raises an issue I have struggled with as I have started
> cruising more: deciding how much battery power I have.   I have 2 AGM
> batteries, one house, one starting and a panel voltmeter for monitoring.
> My batteries are now separated so I no longer have to worry about being
> able to start the engine if I run the house too low. The fridge is the only
> major power draw, so I usually am just conservative, running it only
> periodically to make sure I don’t overdraw the battery.  So what is the
> most efficient way to figure out how much I can safely run the fridge?  If
> I just watch the voltage, how do I decide if I can leave the fridge on
> overnight?  Dave
>
>
>
> Aries
>
> 1990 C 34+
>
> New London, CT
>
>
> pastedGraphic.tiff
>
>
>
> On Feb 12, 2018, at 2:33 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Much of your problem is a matter of battery capacity as much as a matter
> of charging capacity.  I have ~450 Ah of capacity on one bank, a 90 Amp
> alternator that never reaches full load, and 200 watts of solar.  Even
> without the solar I was able to comfortably keep the the fridge running and
> the lights on when cruising for ~2 weeks.  The half hour to hour of engine
> operation to anchor or moore in the evening and the same in the morning was
> always enough to keep the batteries charged.
>
>
>
> Keep in mind that the battery capacity should be at least 4x of the charge
> capacity for flooded lead acid and at least 2x for AGM.  So a 400 Ah or 200
> Ah respectively for a 100 amp alternator.
>

Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

As for old hoses that's why it is so important to close your through hulls
when away from the boat.

Josh

On Feb 17, 2018 4:32 PM, "Len Mitchell via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I installed a drip less shaft seal about 7 or 8 years ago when I replaced
> my cutlass bearing. Like Josh said I opted to not install the vent hose, it
> came with a nylon plug. It has worked flawlessly. I burp the air out on
> launch and if I get air bubbles in the hose for any reason I can clearly
> hear a chirping noise and burp it again but that is infrequent if at all. I
> know they are supposed to be replaced as a precaution but I inspect it
> often and it looks like new. The motor seldom gets used other than to clear
> the dock so it hasn’t got many hours on it. If I were doing it again, I
> would just replace the hose and use new packing. Like others have said, the
> shaft seal isn’t the only source of water in the bilge so fwiw I wouldn’t
> bother if I were doing it again.
>
> BUT many of us have 30+ year old boats with the original rubber stuffing
> box hose plus other old hoses. You have to ask yourself do you trust $5
> worth of old rubber hose to hold the water out? *Crazy Legs* has 3 sink
> drains, 2 sea water intakes plus the stuffing box. Don’t forget the old
> rubber poo hose and fuel hose! Put your hand up if you have original rubber
> hose somewhere! Check yours out, mine had cracks along the surface of the
> hoses and I wasn’t comfortable leaving it that way.
>
> Len Mitchell
> SV *Crazy Legs*
> 1989 37 +
> Midland On
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal - now hoses

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Hear!  Hear!  High on my list!  In the 1st 4 months I had Touche' I
replaced all the thru hull hoses, the alcohol stove hose, and all the
engine hoses.  The two I didn't think about were the fuel fill hose and
shaft log hose.  I was painfully reminded of the former after filling the
tank one day and smelling gasoline throughout the boat.  The inner and
outer layers of the old hose had separated allowing gasoline to find its
way between the layers.  The vapors seeped out of the outer layer.
Replaced it promptly.

I replaced the shaft log hose during the diesel re-power process a couple
years later.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Feb 17, 2018 at 3:31 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> BUT many of us have 30+ year old boats with the original rubber stuffing
> box hose plus other old hoses. You have to ask yourself do you trust $5
> worth of old rubber hose to hold the water out? *Crazy Legs* has 3 sink
> drains, 2 sea water intakes plus the stuffing box. Don’t forget the old
> rubber poo hose and fuel hose! Put your hand up if you have original rubber
> hose somewhere! Check yours out, mine had cracks along the surface of the
> hoses and I wasn’t comfortable leaving it that way.
>
> Len Mitchell
> SV *Crazy Legs*
> 1989 37 +
> Midland On
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves for 33-2?

[john sandford via CnC-List]

Zephyrworks
http://zephyrwerks.com/default.html
I replaced the aluminum main and jib halyard sheaves 2 years ago on my LF38
As I changed from wire/rope to MLX dyneema I didn’t want the wire groove to 
(maybe) damage the new ones.
They shipped new sheaves around in a week, and they fitted perfectly.

Highly recommended.





-Original Message-
From: Dave S [mailto:syerd...@gmail.com] 
Sent: February-17-18 12:09 PM
To: C Stus List
Subject: Stus-List Masthead sheaves for 33-2?

Good day all.

Looking to replace windstar’s three masthead sheaves.  The existing sheaves are 
the originals, aluminum with a very shallow wire groove in the centre of the 
rope-radius groove.  I successfully re-bushed these a couple of years ago, 
however I switched to all rope halyards last year and it appears the main 
halyard is slightly fraying at the sheave.

Will my current sheave damage the halyard?  (The wire groove is very shallow - 
hard to imagine it’s an issue)

Suggestions as to a source?

Thanks!

Dave

Sent from my iPhone



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Stus-List PSS shaft seal

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

I installed a drip less shaft seal about 7 or 8 years ago when I replaced my 
cutlass bearing. Like Josh said I opted to not install the vent hose, it came 
with a nylon plug. It has worked flawlessly. I burp the air out on launch and 
if I get air bubbles in the hose for any reason I can clearly hear a chirping 
noise and burp it again but that is infrequent if at all. I know they are 
supposed to be replaced as a precaution but I inspect it often and it looks 
like new. The motor seldom gets used other than to clear the dock so it hasn’t 
got many hours on it. If I were doing it again, I would just replace the hose 
and use new packing. Like others have said, the shaft seal isn’t the only 
source of water in the bilge so fwiw I wouldn’t bother if I were doing it 
again. 

BUT many of us have 30+ year old boats with the original rubber stuffing box 
hose plus other old hoses. You have to ask yourself do you trust $5 worth of 
old rubber hose to hold the water out? Crazy Legs has 3 sink drains, 2 sea 
water intakes plus the stuffing box. Don’t forget the old rubber poo hose and 
fuel hose! Put your hand up if you have original rubber hose somewhere! Check 
yours out, mine had cracks along the surface of the hoses and I wasn’t 
comfortable leaving it that way. 

Len Mitchell 
SV Crazy Legs
1989 37 +
Midland On

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Re: Stus-List C 24 Portholes

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Doug, it sounds like you have the older framed windows.

You need something between the frame and the lenses, thin foam or butyl tape.

The lenses go in next then a rubber spline gets installed in the gap between 
the lens and the frame to lock everything in.

Holland Marinehttp://www.hollandmarine.com/gasketpage.html and other 
places have the correct spline.

Holland Marine recommends the butyl tape but if you live in an area with very 
hot summers the butyl may weep a bit.

When you install the spline soak it in hot soapy water to make it very pliable, 
start putting it in at the middle of the top of the window and most importantly 
really work it into the corners without stretching it.

If you stretch it pushing it into the corners it will pull out as it ages and 
shrinks.

If you say where you are located in your signature line, local listers can 
probably point you to a local source for the spline.

It’s a time consuming job but not very hard to do.

Cheers

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug Ellmore 
via CnC-List
Sent: February-17-18 15:25
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Ellmore
Subject: Stus-List C 24 Portholes

 

Before the snow started today, we got the old portholes out with the leaky 
lenses.  I have new lenses from another C 24 owner he never used before he 
crushed the boat.

 

So, I have to get all the goup and junk off the frames, get them clean.   Then 
figure out how to install properly.  

 

We put a tarp over the cabin to keep it dry with the snow and rain.

 

Looking at what was done by the last installer, does not look correct.  Go 
figure!

 



-- 

Doug Ellmore, Sr.

d...@ellmore.net

 

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

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Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[schiller via CnC-List]

I put a PYI Packless Shaft Seal on Corsair in 2001.  It was a ventless 
model and it was important to burp it in the spring during launch.  It 
was still pristine when Corsair was scrapped last year.  There is 
nothing wrong with the traditional stuffing box but those who are 
concerned of the bellows failing need to consider that their stuffing 
box uses a very similar piece of hose that can fail as well.


We used similar shaft seals in the Aerospace Hydraulic Pumps that I 
designed for a lot of years (after I no longer designed things that went 
boom).  We used bronze nose pieces in lieu of the carbon and tungsten 
carbide but designed for 30,000 hours.  Our designs were from 8,000 rpm 
for electric motor pumps to 12,000 rpm for hydraulic motor driven 
generators.  Our low speed diesels really don't need the vent line.


Grace came with a standard stuffing box that was repacked in 2016.  One 
of my projects this spring will be to replace with a PYI packless shaft 
seal (with vent, I'm getting too old to stuff myself in lockers to burp 
seals!).


Both designs rely on a rubber hose to keep the majority of the water on 
the outside of the boat.  I'll go with the lower maintenance design.  
Just one engineer's opinion.


Neil Schiller
Old: 1970 Redwing 35 (C 35-1), #007, "Corsair"
New: 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
White Lake Michigan
WLYC

On 2/17/2018 1:45 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
I forgot but someone else has mentioned in the past that the vent 
isn't even really necessary.  Just burp the seal after each relaunch.


You can eliminate the vent by plugging the hole with a small brass 
pipe plug.


Josh



On Feb 16, 2018 9:06 PM, "Brien Sadler via CnC-List" 
> wrote:



Has anyone changed to a PSS dripless stuffing box? I’m sold on the
switch I just haven’t figured out how I’m going to run the vent
line yet. Any suggestions would be great. Preliminary plan is to
run it to a very small through hull at the top of the transom.

Thanks,

Brien


Sent from my iPad
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https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 



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Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[Brien Sadler via CnC-List]

It sounds like both options are good options. I guess now the question is how 
much I want to spend to stop the water from coming in the bilge. Last season I 
knew of two leaks I had letting water in the bilge the access plate on the 
water pump was leaking when I ran the engine and the stuffing box was leaking 
as well. The stuffing box was leaking at a rate of 84 drops per minute in the 
middle of the summer.  When I went to adjust the packing there was so much 
verdigris on the packing assembly that the jam nut wouldn’t budge. In addition 
the hose between the log and the packing was old and was twisting at the 
slightest force. To avoid tearing the rubber hose I left it alone since the 
bilge pump was keeping up with it and decided to tackle the job on the hard 
before next season. I appreciate the insights on both sides. Now I’m not sure I 
want to spend close to $250 for a dripless packing when I could replace the 
hose and flax for less than $50 especially when I know I’ll only own this boat 
a few years. Always decisions to make.

Thanks,

Brien
S/V TAZ
C 35-3

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Stus-List C 24 Portholes

[Doug Ellmore via CnC-List]

Before the snow started today, we got the old portholes out with the leaky
lenses.  I have new lenses from another C 24 owner he never used before
he crushed the boat.

So, I have to get all the goup and junk off the frames, get them clean.
Then figure out how to install properly.

We put a tarp over the cabin to keep it dry with the snow and rain.

Looking at what was done by the last installer, does not look correct.  Go
figure!



-- 
Doug Ellmore, Sr.
d...@ellmore.net
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Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves for 33-2?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

I had garhauer do sheaves for our 33-2, slightly narrower than their stock 
ones. I sent one of the existing ones to them

Get Outlook for iOS

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S via CnC-List 

Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2018 11:09:08 AM
To: C Stus List
Cc: Dave S
Subject: Stus-List Masthead sheaves for 33-2?

Good day all.

Looking to replace windstar’s three masthead sheaves.  The existing sheaves are 
the originals, aluminum with a very shallow wire groove in the centre of the 
rope-radius groove.  I successfully re-bushed these a couple of years ago, 
however I switched to all rope halyards last year and it appears the main 
halyard is slightly fraying at the sheave.

Will my current sheave damage the halyard?  (The wire groove is very shallow - 
hard to imagine it’s an issue)

Suggestions as to a source?

Thanks!

Dave

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I forgot but someone else has mentioned in the past that the vent isn't
even really necessary.  Just burp the seal after each relaunch.

You can eliminate the vent by plugging the hole with a small brass pipe
plug.

Josh



On Feb 16, 2018 9:06 PM, "Brien Sadler via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>
> Has anyone changed to a PSS dripless stuffing box? I’m sold on the switch
> I just haven’t figured out how I’m going to run the vent line yet. Any
> suggestions would be great. Preliminary plan is to run it to a very small
> through hull at the top of the transom.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brien
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Wow. Mine was over 25 years old

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 17, 2018, at 07:38, Michael Brannon via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> You can always run the vent line to your salt water supply to the engine.   
> That is how mine is run.You need to change the rubber boot every 5-7  
> years.I generally replace the entire assembly at that time.   
> 
> 
> Mikel Brannon
> Virginia Lee 93295
> C 36 CB
> Virginia Beach, VA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I installed one on Pegasus, I ran the vent above the waterline, and put a
small loop in. The purpose of the line is to vent air from the seal to
prevent the carbon seal ring from burning up.


On Fri, Feb 16, 2018 at 6:17 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had  a PSS put in on my 34 thinking it was a good upgrade, but on my 34+
> decided not to do it.  The reason is that if not maintained properly, you
> can have catastrophic failure of the PSS and sink the boat.  I replaced the
> packing with teflon on my 34+ 3 years ago and it was pretty trivial, has
> not been touched since and hardly even drips.  The worst that can happen is
> more dripping and then you tighten the nuts.  I recommend against it.  Dave
>
>
> On Feb 16, 2018, at 9:05 PM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone changed to a PSS dripless stuffing box? I’m sold on the switch
> I just haven’t figured out how I’m going to run the vent line yet. Any
> suggestions would be great. Preliminary plan is to run it to a very small
> through hull at the top of the transom.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brien
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

The PO changed from the original stuffing box to a PSS seal on Cat’s Paw 
sometime between 1980 (when my father sold the boat to him) and 2004 (when I 
bought her back).  That PSS did not have the vent tube option.  There was some 
wear on the carbon(?) face (that seals to the SS part) although no drips I 
could tell, but I decided to replace the PSS with a new one in 2009. The new 
one has the vent tube.  I routed the tube out into the left cockpit locker 
(always running upwards) and ran it up to just under the seat, so well above 
the waterline - have never used a bottle to collect overflow; if it occurs, it 
would just flow down into the bilge. The directions suggested sliding the SS 
part forward along the prop shaft to avoid continually compressing the rubber 
part of the seal, so I have done that each winter.  Test it each spring (in the 
water) running at full speed to check for leaks and occasionally during the 
sailing season. Never saw any.  Engine use is not heavy - probably 100-200 
hours per season, so perhaps that helps explain why no leaks.  But it certainly 
has worked well on Cat’s Paw.

Eric Frank
Cat’s Paw, CC35 MkII, built in 1974
Mattapoisett, MA




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Stus-List Masthead sheaves for 33-2?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Good day all.

Looking to replace windstar’s three masthead sheaves.  The existing sheaves are 
the originals, aluminum with a very shallow wire groove in the centre of the 
rope-radius groove.  I successfully re-bushed these a couple of years ago, 
however I switched to all rope halyards last year and it appears the main 
halyard is slightly fraying at the sheave.

Will my current sheave damage the halyard?  (The wire groove is very shallow - 
hard to imagine it’s an issue)

Suggestions as to a source?

Thanks!

Dave

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine i50 & i60 installation tips?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Paul - the installation is fairly straightforward, and the instructions in the 
manuals are pretty good; what questions in particular do you have?  As Mike 
mentioned, you may need to get some SeaTalkNG network components, depending on 
how you need to network things.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Feb 16, 2018, at 7:06 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Paul
> 
> When we installed the i50/i60 in 2014 we had to buy some networking 
> components to connect them properly for TWS etc...  These networking pieces 
> did not come in the system pack with our wind/speed/depth instruments.
> 
> Likely Fred can explain what is needed and why.  I am still surprised that 
> everything needed was not included in the pack
> 
> Mike
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Paul via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2018 8:30 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Paul
> Subject: Stus-List Raymarine i50 & i60 installation tips?
> 
> Hello,
> Does anyone have tips or suggestions on installation of an i50/i60 system 
> pack. I'm replacing a DataMarine Link 5000 system. 
> Thanks
> 
> Paul Saxton
> Boomerang
> C 29 Mk 1
> Toronto, ON

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Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Dittto.  I use Teflon impregnated packing in a standard stuffing box.  No
issues.  Drips slightly when running.  Dry when not.  I have the tools,
knowledge, diligence and flexibility to properly adjust it.

Buddy of mine has PSS drip-less in his boat.  We were making trip to coast
one day when his engine compartment ventilation hose became dislodged.  I'm
talking about the 3 or 4 inch vent hose with spiral wire in it.  The hose
found its way to the coupling.  The set screws on the coupling grabbed the
hose and wrapped it around his PSS dripless bellows.  Fortunately, the
bellows didn't rip but it separated the seal and the boat began to take on
water.  He managed to figure things out and save the boat.  Granted, if the
hose had been properly secured, nothing would have happened.

I see the major advantage of drip-less systems as keeping sea water and its
little organisms out of the bilge where they tend to become smelly.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



On Fri, Feb 16, 2018 at 10:10 PM, robert via CnC-List  wrote:

> I would not change to a dripless stuffing box when a much simpler and
> safer option is available.as David said here before, repack your
> existing box with a quality product and you are virtually drip freeI
> did mine 6 years ago and it still doesn't drip...and I have checked and
> there is no heat on the prop shaft, stuffing box, etc.  I never worry about
> a catastrophic failure a PSS dripless stuffing box  can endure.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> On Feb 16, 2018, at 9:05 PM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone changed to a PSS dripless stuffing box? I’m sold on the switch
> I just haven’t figured out how I’m going to run the vent line yet. Any
> suggestions would be great. Preliminary plan is to run it to a very small
> through hull at the top of the transom.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brien
>
>
>
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Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[robert via CnC-List]

I used PTFE Tefelon Braided Ramie Packing .I repacked my stuffing 
box  6 years ago with itafter Spring launch I adjusted for approx. 2 
drops/drips per minutethen after running the engine the drips would 
stopI loosen and got the 2 drops per minute again...after the next 
use of the engine, the drips would stoploosen one more time, ran the 
engine and the drips would stop.


So I stopped looseningran the engine for 2 hours .got into the 
lazarette and put my hand on the stuffing box and the prop shaft looking 
for heatboth were cold so I left things the way they were.  The 
stuffing box does not leak/ drip water although I understand it should.  
I may be in for a big expense some day for a new prop shaft but in the 
meantime, my bilge is dry except for what comes down inside the mast 
when it rains.  I can live with that, we all do.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-02-17 12:24 AM, Neil Andersen wrote:

What “quality product” have you found success with?

Neil Andersen
1982 C 32
Rock Hall, MD

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661

*From:* CnC-List  on behalf of robert 
via CnC-List 

*Sent:* Friday, February 16, 2018 11:10:59 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* robert
*Subject:* Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal
I would not change to a dripless stuffing box when a much simpler and 
safer option is available.as David said here before, repack your 
existing box with a quality product and you are virtually drip 
freeI did mine 6 years ago and it still doesn't drip...and I have 
checked and there is no heat on the prop shaft, stuffing box, etc.  I 
never worry about a catastrophic failure a PSS dripless stuffing box  
can endure.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On Feb 16, 2018, at 9:05 PM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List 
> wrote:



Has anyone changed to a PSS dripless stuffing box? I’m sold on the 
switch I just haven’t figured out how I’m going to run the vent line 
yet. Any suggestions would be great. Preliminary plan is to run it 
to a very small through hull at the top of the transom.


Thanks,

Brien





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Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

You can always run the vent line to your salt water supply to the engine.   
That is how mine is run.You need to change the rubber boot every 5-7  
years.I generally replace the entire assembly at that time.   


Mikel Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




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