Stus-List Curtains on C 34

[DON JONSSON via CnC-List]

Hi All 

The curtains on our 34 are getting rather old. We would like to replace the 
curtains without replacing the mounting hardware that holds them. This, I 
think, means getting the right slides to sew onto the head and foot of the 
curtains. 

Has anyone experience with this? Where did you get the slides? 

I've attached some pictures. 

Thanks 
Don 
Andante, C 34 
Victoria, BC 


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VMPIP5ZCwZatb4YAFlD7quzUsID9BwfD/view?usp=sharing
 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/19GAIeKoUFxDPdgoXlTE0yD-HvxvImA3Y/view?usp=sharing
 
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Stus-List Tree Trimming

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Listers I am in need of your wisdom.

My boat is hauled for the offseason, and I dropped the mast again to facilitate 
towing the boat somewhere for painting.

Yesterday I discovered damage to the mast and starboard spreader bracket.  I 
suspect the damage occurred when the boat was being towed to the gin pole to 
take the rig down - the rig was towed through some non-trivial tree branches on 
the starboard side, resulting in substantial tree trimmings on the boat and on 
the ground.

Supporting that theory, the spreader bracket and mast show damage consistent 
with a head-on force levering the spreader aft - the spreader bracket plate is 
bent outboard on the aft side, and the mast has an indentation at the aft edge 
of the spreader bracket plate.  Also the screw holes in the mast for the 
forward part of the spreader bracket plate are pulled out (that’s how I first 
noticed the damage - those two screws were pulled out).

I’ve put pictures at 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1FI3QhFi82jrSOzQtpJ-9Z54XK3lHvlIr 
.
IMG_0227.jpg is of the mast where the starboard spreader bracket fastens.  The 
mast is laying horizontally with the forward edge up, and the picture is taken 
from “below” looking “aloft”.
IMG_0234.jpg is looking at the aft side of the starboard spreader bracket, 
laying on its plate on my workbench.
IMG_0237.jpg is looking at the bracket plate from above, with the tang down.
IMG_0238.jpg is also looking at the bracket from “above”, but with the plate 
flat (I wish) on the workbench, and the tang obscured by the tube.

In the photos of the bracket you can see the deformation of the plate.

So, my questions to you listers:
1. How catastrophic is this?  Am I looking at mast replacement?
2. Thoughts on repair strategies? (esp. for the mast - I can probably get a new 
bracket fab’d, and can enlarge and re-tap the screw holes)
3. To make an insurance claim or not?

Note I have the port spreader bracket as a template and for fit-testing etc.  
It’s undamaged (as is the port side of the mast) and symmetric with the 
starboard bracket save for the location of the set screw hole for the spreader.

Grateful for any wisdom you can share.

Thank You,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO

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Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearing

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Gerry,

 

The shaft will not clear the rudder.  I drop the rudder to replace the cutless 
bearing.  The process takes me about half an hour to remove the rudder.  I’ve 
done it three times over the years.  I use anti-seize on the quadrant bolts.  
It makes a huge difference.

 

I dd it again this spring.  When I was launching, the yard mentioned that they 
have the special tool to replace the bearing with the shaft in place.  NOW THEY 
TELL ME

The special tool does work, if you can find one to borrow.  It will save you 
time.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Bavaria 44

Hampton VA



 

  

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Gerald Fennessey 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2018 16:08
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gerald Fennessey 
Subject: Stus-List Cutlass bearing

 

Looking to replace the cutlass bearing  

on my 1985 35 mk3. 

Any info would be helpful.

 Does the rudder have to be removed or will the shaft slide by it?

Is there a special tool for removing it without removing the shaft?

 

Thanks

Gerry Fennessey

Fianna

 


gfennes...@verizon.net  

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Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Question

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I used to sail on a 35 Mk.1 that used a tiller pilot as an auto pilot so
we'd fit the emergency tiller then, to use the tiller pilot.  It wasn't too
bad to steer the boat the the emergency tiller, even with the wheel still
connected.  It would be hard work if yo had to do it for hours I'd think.

Tried the emergency tiller on our 37/40 as an experiment with the wheel off
the wheel shaft but the steering cable still connected and in operation.  I
does work but that would be even harder work if it was very windy or the
seas were rough.  There isn't anything to positively retain the emergency
tiller into the top of the rudder shaft so I could see it popping out
occasionally in a following sea when swinging it back and forth quite a bit.

Ken H.

On Mon, 24 Sep 2018 at 16:48, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Um, no.
>
> Dry fit it years ago when I first bought the boat.  Been stored on clips
> in the starboard lazarette with an appropriately sized wrench strapped to
> it ever since.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 2:14 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Rudder talk got me wondering – does anyone ever sail with their tiller?
>>
>> The 35 MK I is one of the very few wheel steered boats where the
>> emergency tiller is actually a viable way to steer the boat. I used to use
>> it to steer from under the dodger in the rain until I got an autopilot. It
>> is a bit awkward, it should be about 1 foot longer and hinged, but beats
>> the heck out of most I have seen.
>>
>>
>> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List C 30 - Cowl vent flexible part

[T power via CnC-List]

That's an awesome idea!!

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jeffrey Nelson via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2018 6:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeffrey Nelson
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30 - Cowl vent flexible part

I made mine out of 4" white sewar pipe because my crew kept punting them 
overboard.  Oddly enough, since I've
replaced them, I have only had to replace 1 of the vents since (2 years 
now)...whereas when I was purchasing the rather expensive
vents, it was 2 or 3 a year.

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C 30
   Armdale Y.C.


On Sep 22, 2018, at 3:33 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



Where did you get the flexible cowl only?  I only found the whole item and not 
the lost part.  I lost the two at the stern as well.

Ron

Wild Cheri

C 30-1

STL





On Thursday, September 13, 2018, 10:28:23 AM CDT, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



And, like Gary said, that cowl vent gets in the way.  Mine popped off and went 
overboard in some chaotic moment in a race this year, and I had to get a 
replacement.  Plus I’m always worried those anchor hangers are going to tear a 
sail, but so far so good.



Cheers,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C 30-1 #7

Ken Caryl, CO





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Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearing

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

On my C 41, it was not necessary to drop the rudder.
The yard removed the cutless bearing 1st with their special bearing press tool.
Once the bearing was removed, there was enough slop to slide the 1 1/8 inch 
shaft past the rudder for easy removal.
I replaced both the shaft and the bearing.



Don Wagner
C 41 CB
Der Baron___

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Stus-List C 38 For Sale

[robert via CnC-List]

No affiliation with this boat sale but I do confess to knowing about the 
boatand someone is going to get a great boat for $20K CDN .362 
hours on the new engine for exampleFYI



http://www.sunnybrookyachts.com/boats-for-sale/1976-c-c-38-chester-nova-scotia-canada-6598268/

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing checklist?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

There are spring, fall and winter checklists in the DIY section of the
photoalbum.  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/

Dennis C.

On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 4:20 PM jay hackney via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone have a handy checklist for winterizing your boat (and the
> Atomic engine)?___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List 1978 C 26'

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

How would you summarize her sailing characteristics in light winds and how does 
she handle a blow and choppy seas? The motion comfort ratio seemed very low  
(16.73) and capsize ratio quite high at 2.31. Have you been happy with her 
handling thus far? 

Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Monday, September 24, 2018, 8:31 AM, James Hesketh via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Chris,
I've had a '78 26 for 4 years now and it is the perfect boat for my current 
needs. We are the 3rd owner and it was well maintained throughout its life here 
in Miami where it gets year-round use in the heat and humidity of South Florida.
When we first got it I had to replace the head on the engine -- a SB8 like 
yours and have the -- and clean out the raw-water cooling system. Parts were 
fairly easily available, but it took some time on the phone to locate them.
The deck needs attention under the pulpit and stanchion basses  and the toe 
rail could use a complete re-bedding, but a bead of calk along the deck stopped 
all leaks for now. The main hatch and handrails also needed removal and 
re-bedding. Also the wood in the lazerett needed some attention.

Those were all jobs that are pretty obvious and shouldn't be unexpected at its 
age.
I have just recently discovered the mast step needs replacing -- first the door 
to the head started getting tight at the top, then I notices a little 
deformation on the tops of the bulkheads and, after a critical inspection, I 
discovered some flattening of the cabin to around the mast step. Further 
exploration led me the the mast step where I could feel some soft wood on its 
underside all the way forward where it joins the bulkhead under the king post. 
I've consulted with a rigger friend and we figure we can do the repair fairly 
easily and can probably do it without pulling the mast -- probably 2 or three 
days work, which I will do once it cools down here later this fall. I think the 
bulkheads will be OK, but might need some reinforcement -- I'll know once the 
step is done and the rigging tuned again. 

It's a lovey coat and I don't mind these projects considering what we paid for 
it. And figure we will get many, many, years of service once it's taken care of.
Good Luck with your search.
Jim HeskethC 26 WhisperCoconut Grove, FL

 



Hi there,
This weekend I’m heading up the coast to take a look at a 26 footer in very 
good condition with an inboard Yanmar SB8 (Which I believe may be the original 
engine)?
As I inspect the boat, is there anything that I should be looking at in 
particular? Deck to Hall joints, chain plates, …? Anything that stands out with 
the 26 in particular? Ill do the usual inspection but was just wondering if 
there might be something in particular that may have plagued this design?
Chris
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing checklist?

[Chris Price via CnC-List]

Get hold of the Moyer Marine Atomic Four manual. Very clear instructions fo winterizing the engine. Chris Price with a 45 year old A 4 still running like a clock. On September 24, 2018 at 5:19 PM jay hackney via CnC-List wrote:Does anyone have a handy checklist for winterizing your boat (and the Atomic engine)?___Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing checklist?

[Stu via CnC-List]

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com//doityourself/fallchecklist/fallchklist.htm

Stu

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Stus-List Love tap while racing or "rough start"

[robert via CnC-List]

Interesting footagebig fleet at the start but a small/short start 
line for such a large fleet...that aside.the boat over the line 
early was clearly in the wrong and never should have turned back into 
the fleet on the starting line.where I have raced, when you cross 
before the start, you first and foremost keep clear of all the other 
starting boats and when the opportunity arises and you can turn back to 
round either / or the Committee boat or the pin side and then come back out.


Lucky for the boats and fleet it was a light wind or a lot of other 
collisions might have occurred.


Lessondon't go racing if you don't know the rules.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32- 84
Halifax< N.S.

On 2018-09-22 1:28 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
All this discussion on rules while NOT racing. Here's an incident from 
last Wednesday night's race in New Orleans.  How NOT to start a race.  
Enjoy.


https://youtu.be/AIu8mXQOs-g

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Stus-List Refinishing Table ...

[robert via CnC-List]

David:

Refinished my table, 1984, it was teak veneertoo thin to sand 
without consequencestook the table out of the boat...soaked it 
(literally poured on top) with and combination of TSP and white vinegar, 
let set for 10 minutes and removed with  steel woolrinsed with 
water (hose) big time and let dry for a few days.


Bought a tung oil at Lee Valleygot a perfect color match first 
timecould not have got a more better finish.


Can send a pic off list if you want to see the finished table.sorry 
but don't have a before pic but trust me, it wasn't prettylooked 
like a big water stain on the table, all gone now.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2018-09-24 4:47 PM, David via CnC-List wrote:

Hello,

I am taking out my cabin table from my 81' 40- 2 to refinish this 
winter.  Anybody refinish one?


Thanks in advance.

*David F. Risch, J. D.*

*/GulfStreamAssociates,LLC/**
*

**

*(401) 419-4650 *


 
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Stus-List Cutlass bearing

[Jim Giffing via CnC-List]

Hey guys..

I replaced my cutlass bearing on my 29 this spring and it was not difficult.

If you a little handy you can do it.

Contact Ken at weekendrprodu...@aol.com

The key if the bearing has not been replaced in a long time is buy about a 
gallon of penetrating oil like wd-40 and soak your strut for several weeks. 
Take plastic and build dam around your strut and let it soak. When it came time 
to remove the bearing it came out like butter. It was too easy with the tool. 
As Ken says it is all in the preparation.

Jim Giffing 
S/V Strong Tower
1977 C 29-1
North East, Md

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Re: Stus-List C 30 - Cowl vent flexible part

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

I made mine out of 4" white sewar pipe because my crew kept punting them 
overboard.  Oddly enough, since I've
replaced them, I have only had to replace 1 of the vents since (2 years 
now)...whereas when I was purchasing the rather expensive

vents, it was 2 or 3 a year.

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C 30
   Armdale Y.C.


On Sep 22, 2018, at 3:33 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Where did you get the flexible cowl only?  I only found the whole item 
and not the lost part.  I lost the two at the stern as well.


Ron

Wild Cheri

C 30-1

STL

On Thursday, September 13, 2018, 10:28:23 AM CDT, Randy Stafford via 
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


And, like Gary said, that cowl vent gets in the way.  Mine popped off 
and went overboard in some chaotic moment in a race this year, and I 
had to get a replacement.  Plus I’m always worried those anchor 
hangers are going to tear a sail, but so far so good.


Cheers,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C 30-1 #7

Ken Caryl, CO

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Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearing

[David via CnC-List]

Easier than that.  I just uncoupled the shaft at the tranny and removed flange. 
  Slid shaft forward...


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Joel Aronson via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2018 5:08 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearing

My mechanic removed the transmission and slid the shaft forward on my 35/3.  
Said it was easier than dropping the rudder.  I believe him!

Joel

On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 4:08 PM Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Looking to replace the cutlass bearing
on my 1985 35 mk3.
Any info would be helpful.
 Does the rudder have to be removed or will the shaft slide by it?
Is there a special tool for removing it without removing the shaft?

Thanks
Gerry Fennessey
Fianna



gfennes...@verizon.net
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--
Joel
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearings

[Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List]

I have a 1" shaft


Gerald Fennessey
gfennes...@verizon.net




-Original Message-
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Sent: Mon, Sep 24, 2018 5:03 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearings



The thinner the shaft the less likely those things are to work. The yard that 
did mine removed the prop shaft to do the job, their tool would not work on a 
7/8” shaft.
The tool is essentially a pipe that fits over the prop shaft that presses the 
bearing out with a way to grab the strut and not try and wrench the strut off 
the boat. The thicker the cutless bearing (NOT cutlass), the better they work.
 
 
Joe
Coquina
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Gerald 
Fennessey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2018 4:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gerald Fennessey 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearings
 
Do you have any info on the gadget?

Gerald Fennessey
gfennes...@verizon.net

 

-Original Message-
From: JP Mail via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: JP Mail 
Sent: Mon, Sep 24, 2018 4:20 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearings

We replaced shaft with rudder in place. There is a gadget that presses the 
cutlass bearing out with shaft in place. I got me one. I’ve read they’re 
finicky. As in, they work great on brand new cutlass bearings. Never used it 
because we changed the CB when new shaft installed. 
J

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 24, 2018, at 4:08 PM, Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Looking to replace the cutlass bearing 

on my 1985 35 mk3.

Any info would be helpful.

 Does the rudder have to be removed or will the shaft slide by it?

Is there a special tool for removing it without removing the shaft?

 

Thanks

Gerry Fennessey

Fianna

 


gfennes...@verizon.net




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Stus-List Winterizing checklist?

[jay hackney via CnC-List]

Does anyone have a handy checklist for winterizing your boat (and the Atomic 
engine)?

smime.p7s
Description: S/MIME cryptographic signature
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Stus-List : Emergency Tiller Question

[robert via CnC-List]

AZURA's e-tiller has a similar set up as DennisI have practiced 
it...just in case...I have a wrench tapped to the e-tiller but I also 
have it set so that when I drop it on the sole connection behind the 
binnacle, it will be drop on and be tight/firmif I want it more 
secure for any reason, e.g. big seas, I have the small wrench there 
.using an e-tiller doesn't need me to go looking for a 
wrenchespecially if I am alone.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32
Halifax, N.S.



On 2018-09-24 5:08 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Touche's e-tiller has a bolt to tighten once you put it on the end of 
the rudder.


Dennis C.

On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 2:56 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Wrench? What for?

Joe

Coquina 35-1

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] *On Behalf Of *Dennis C.
via CnC-List
*Sent:* Monday, September 24, 2018 3:47 PM
*To:* CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*Cc:* Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
*Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Question

Um, no.

Dry fit it years ago when I first bought the boat.  Been stored on
clips in the starboard lazarette with an appropriately sized
wrench strapped to it ever since.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 2:14 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Rudder talk got me wondering – does anyone ever sail with
their tiller?

The 35 MK I is one of the very few wheel steered boats where
the emergency tiller is actually a viable way to steer the
boat. I used to use it to steer from under the dodger in the
rain until I got an autopilot. It is a bit awkward, it should
be about 1 foot longer and hinged, but beats the heck out of
most I have seen.

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Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearing

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

My mechanic removed the transmission and slid the shaft forward on my
35/3.  Said it was easier than dropping the rudder.  I believe him!

Joel

On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 4:08 PM Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looking to replace the cutlass bearing
> on my 1985 35 mk3.
> Any info would be helpful.
>  Does the rudder have to be removed or will the shaft slide by it?
> Is there a special tool for removing it without removing the shaft?
>
> Thanks
> Gerry Fennessey
> Fianna
>
>
>
> gfennes...@verizon.net
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearings

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

The thinner the shaft the less likely those things are to work. The yard that 
did mine removed the prop shaft to do the job, their tool would not work on a 
7/8” shaft.
The tool is essentially a pipe that fits over the prop shaft that presses the 
bearing out with a way to grab the strut and not try and wrench the strut off 
the boat. The thicker the cutless bearing (NOT cutlass), the better they work.


Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gerald 
Fennessey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2018 4:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gerald Fennessey 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearings

Do you have any info on the gadget?
Gerald Fennessey
gfennes...@verizon.net

-Original Message-
From: JP Mail via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: JP Mail mailto:jon.peterpr...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Mon, Sep 24, 2018 4:20 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearings
We replaced shaft with rudder in place. There is a gadget that presses the 
cutlass bearing out with shaft in place. I got me one. I’ve read they’re 
finicky. As in, they work great on brand new cutlass bearings. Never used it 
because we changed the CB when new shaft installed.
J
Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 24, 2018, at 4:08 PM, Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Looking to replace the cutlass bearing
on my 1985 35 mk3.
Any info would be helpful.
 Does the rudder have to be removed or will the shaft slide by it?
Is there a special tool for removing it without removing the shaft?

Thanks
Gerry Fennessey
Fianna


gfennes...@verizon.net
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing Table ...

[David via CnC-List]

Of course...and lets invite that reprobate Harry...


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Andrew Burton via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2018 4:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing Table ...

Dave, I don't see a problem doing it assembled...take the leaves off, of 
course. But otherwise shouldn't be a problem. It will work best if you can 
suspend it while you varnish and let it dry. Do the most difficult bits first!
I'm just heading off on a delivery to the Chesapeake, but back next week. How 
about that drink we keep talking about? I should be free most evenings. I'll be 
up at LMI working on Masquerade all week.

Andy

Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middletown, RI
USA02842

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Sep 24, 2018, at 16:21, David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Thanks Andy...I would like to dissemble it to do it right, but I fear it is all 
glued together and must be refinished assembled.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2018 4:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing Table ...

Need you ask?
I used Epiphanes Gloss on all the wood. It came out beautiful, as you would 
expect. It's all in the prep work.
Andy

Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middletown, RI
USA02842

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Sep 24, 2018, at 15:58, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

What finish is on your table and in what condition?
What would you like it to look like?

Fred Hazzard
Fury
Portland Or

On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 12:48 PM David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

I am taking out my cabin table from my 81' 40- 2 to refinish this winter.  
Anybody refinish one?

Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing Table ...

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Dave, I don't see a problem doing it assembled...take the leaves off, of 
course. But otherwise shouldn't be a problem. It will work best if you can 
suspend it while you varnish and let it dry. Do the most difficult bits first!
I'm just heading off on a delivery to the Chesapeake, but back next week. How 
about that drink we keep talking about? I should be free most evenings. I'll be 
up at LMI working on Masquerade all week.

Andy

Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middletown, RI 
USA02842

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Sep 24, 2018, at 16:21, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Andy...I would like to dissemble it to do it right, but I fear it is 
> all glued together and must be refinished assembled.  
> 
> David F. Risch, J. D.
> Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  
> (401) 419-4650 
> 
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Andrew Burton via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2018 4:14 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Andrew Burton
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing Table ...
>  
> Need you ask?
> I used Epiphanes Gloss on all the wood. It came out beautiful, as you would 
> expect. It's all in the prep work. 
> Andy
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 139 Tuckerman Ave
> Middletown, RI 
> USA02842
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
> On Sep 24, 2018, at 15:58, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>> What finish is on your table and in what condition?
>> What would you like it to look like?
>> 
>> Fred Hazzard 
>> Fury
>> Portland Or 
>> 
>> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 12:48 PM David via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Hello,
>> 
>> I am taking out my cabin table from my 81' 40- 2 to refinish this winter.  
>> Anybody refinish one?  
>> 
>> Thanks in advance.
>> 
>> David F. Risch, J. D.
>> Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  
>> (401) 419-4650 
>> 
>>  Virus-free. www.avast.com
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearings

[Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List]

Do you have any info on the gadget?


Gerald Fennessey
gfennes...@verizon.net




-Original Message-
From: JP Mail via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: JP Mail 
Sent: Mon, Sep 24, 2018 4:20 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearings


We replaced shaft with rudder in place. There is a gadget that presses the 
cutlass bearing out with shaft in place. I got me one. I’ve read they’re 
finicky. As in, they work great on brand new cutlass bearings. Never used it 
because we changed the CB when new shaft installed. 
J

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 24, 2018, at 4:08 PM, Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Looking to replace the cutlass bearing 
on my 1985 35 mk3.
Any info would be helpful.
 Does the rudder have to be removed or will the shaft slide by it?
Is there a special tool for removing it without removing the shaft?


Thanks
Gerry Fennessey
Fianna
 



gfennes...@verizon.net




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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List Refinishing Table ...

[David via CnC-List]

Thanks Andy...I would like to dissemble it to do it right, but I fear it is all 
glued together and must be refinished assembled.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Andrew Burton via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2018 4:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing Table ...

Need you ask?
I used Epiphanes Gloss on all the wood. It came out beautiful, as you would 
expect. It's all in the prep work.
Andy

Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middletown, RI
USA02842

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Sep 24, 2018, at 15:58, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

What finish is on your table and in what condition?
What would you like it to look like?

Fred Hazzard
Fury
Portland Or

On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 12:48 PM David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

I am taking out my cabin table from my 81' 40- 2 to refinish this winter.  
Anybody refinish one?

Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]
Virus-free. 
www.avast.com
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Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearings

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

We replaced shaft with rudder in place. There is a gadget that presses the 
cutlass bearing out with shaft in place. I got me one. I’ve read they’re 
finicky. As in, they work great on brand new cutlass bearings. Never used it 
because we changed the CB when new shaft installed. 
J
Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 24, 2018, at 4:08 PM, Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Looking to replace the cutlass bearing 
> on my 1985 35 mk3.
> Any info would be helpful.
>  Does the rudder have to be removed or will the shaft slide by it?
> Is there a special tool for removing it without removing the shaft?
> 
> Thanks
> Gerry Fennessey
> Fianna
>  
> 
> 
> gfennes...@verizon.net
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing Table ...

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Need you ask?
I used Epiphanes Gloss on all the wood. It came out beautiful, as you would 
expect. It's all in the prep work. 
Andy

Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middletown, RI 
USA02842

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Sep 24, 2018, at 15:58, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> What finish is on your table and in what condition?
> What would you like it to look like?
> 
> Fred Hazzard 
> Fury
> Portland Or 
> 
>> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 12:48 PM David via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Hello,
>> 
>> I am taking out my cabin table from my 81' 40- 2 to refinish this winter.  
>> Anybody refinish one?  
>> 
>> Thanks in advance.
>> 
>> David F. Risch, J. D.
>> Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  
>> (401) 419-4650 
>> 
>>  Virus-free. www.avast.com
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Emergency Tiller Question

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Touche's e-tiller has a bolt to tighten once you put it on the end of the
rudder.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 2:56 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Wrench? What for?
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina 35-1
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
> C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, September 24, 2018 3:47 PM
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Question
>
>
>
> Um, no.
>
>
>
> Dry fit it years ago when I first bought the boat.  Been stored on clips
> in the starboard lazarette with an appropriately sized wrench strapped to
> it ever since.
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 2:14 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Rudder talk got me wondering – does anyone ever sail with their tiller?
>
> The 35 MK I is one of the very few wheel steered boats where the emergency
> tiller is actually a viable way to steer the boat. I used to use it to
> steer from under the dodger in the rain until I got an autopilot. It is a
> bit awkward, it should be about 1 foot longer and hinged, but beats the
> heck out of most I have seen.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Cutlass bearing

[Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List]

Looking to replace the cutlass bearing 
on my 1985 35 mk3.
Any info would be helpful.
 Does the rudder have to be removed or will the shaft slide by it?
Is there a special tool for removing it without removing the shaft?


Thanks
Gerry Fennessey
Fianna
 



gfennes...@verizon.net


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Re: Stus-List Refinishing Table ...

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

What finish is on your table and in what condition?
What would you like it to look like?

Fred Hazzard
Fury
Portland Or

On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 12:48 PM David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I am taking out my cabin table from my 81' 40- 2 to refinish this winter.
> Anybody refinish one?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> *David F. Risch, J. D.*
>
> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
>
>
> *(401) 419-4650 *
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_690500445140972069_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Emergency Tiller Question

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Wrench? What for?
Joe
Coquina 35-1

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2018 3:47 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Question

Um, no.

Dry fit it years ago when I first bought the boat.  Been stored on clips in the 
starboard lazarette with an appropriately sized wrench strapped to it ever 
since.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 2:14 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Rudder talk got me wondering – does anyone ever sail with their tiller?
The 35 MK I is one of the very few wheel steered boats where the emergency 
tiller is actually a viable way to steer the boat. I used to use it to steer 
from under the dodger in the rain until I got an autopilot. It is a bit 
awkward, it should be about 1 foot longer and hinged, but beats the heck out of 
most I have seen.

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Stus-List Refinishing Table ...

[David via CnC-List]

Hello,

I am taking out my cabin table from my 81' 40- 2 to refinish this winter.  
Anybody refinish one?

Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]
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Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Question

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Um, no.

Dry fit it years ago when I first bought the boat.  Been stored on clips in
the starboard lazarette with an appropriately sized wrench strapped to it
ever since.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 2:14 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Rudder talk got me wondering – does anyone ever sail with their tiller?
>
> The 35 MK I is one of the very few wheel steered boats where the emergency
> tiller is actually a viable way to steer the boat. I used to use it to
> steer from under the dodger in the rain until I got an autopilot. It is a
> bit awkward, it should be about 1 foot longer and hinged, but beats the
> heck out of most I have seen.
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Corner grabs

[Rob Ball via CnC-List]

We made some in polished stainless for Barry Carrol years ago, but sadly, when 
they stopped using them we stopped making them.  I hoarded a bunch for a while, 
but never found a home for them . . . .

But I’ll bet someone somewhere has replaced their table, and they have them in 
the back of their garage . . .

Cheers,   Rob Ball

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Stus-List Corner grabs

[Allan Hester via CnC-List]

Does anyone know where I can source a corner grab for my 35 Mk 3?

South shore sells an aluninum replacement for about $100 + shipping.
It needs to be drilled, ground to fit and painted.

Maybe someone know of a C being parted out?

Thank you.

Al H.
Pacific Ranger
1989 C 35 mk 3
Vancouver, BC.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
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Re: Stus-List C 26 for Sale

[JPD via CnC-List]

Don't know if this is the correct venue but I have a 26 that I've been
working on for a few years but realize I'm not going to finish. On the hard,
Lake Champlain, best offer, details on request.

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Sent: Monday, September 24, 2018 3:03 PM
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Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 152, Issue 69

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  37+ Rudder Bearing (Joel Aronson)
   2. Re:  37+ Rudder Bearing (Gary Russell)
   3. Re:  37+ Rudder Bearing (Gary Russell)
   4.  rudder (ahycrace ahycrace)
   5. Re:  rudder (Gary Russell)
   6. Re:  37+ Rudder Bearing (David)


--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2018 13:41:45 -0400
From: Joel Aronson 
To: cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Run a line under the rudder tied to the stern cleat on one side and a winch
on the other so you can lower it slowly.

Joel

On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 1:39 PM bwhitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Agreed.  Ours on our 1994 C 37/40+ came off no problem.  Be sure to
> check the idler pulley plate!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2018 13:43:02 -0400
From: Gary Russell 
To: "C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Great!  Thank you both.
Gary
~~~_/)~~



On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 1:39 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Mine was through bolted with SS bolts and nuts.  Rudder is probably about
> 75lbs.  Too heavy for 1 but not too much for 2.
>
> Josh
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018, 7:24 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Really?   Usually when I have stainless steel bolts tapped into an
>> aluminum housing, the galvanic corrosion makes them impossible to remove.
>> I hope you are right!  Do you have any idea how much the rudder weighs?
In
>> other words, do I need to put a jack under the rudder to lower it down,
or
>> can 1 or 2 guys just lower it?
>>
>> Thanks for your input,
>> Gary
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 12:55 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Loosen the drive cables... Then loosen the quadrant boltsno problem.
>>>
>>> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018, 2:56 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi Josh,
>>>>  How  did you get the quadrant off?  My SS bolts look pretty
>>>> corroded.  Were you able to save the quadrant?
>>>> Gary
>>>> S/V Kaylarah
>>>> '90 C 37+
>>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 2:25 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I removed my quadrant to rebuild the rudder.  There was nothing
>>>>> particularly difficult about it.  The steering cables will inevitably
slip
>>>>> off the sheaves at the base of the steering pedestal.  They can be
worked
>>>>> back on with a helper.  If you haven't replaced/inspected the sheave
plate
>>>>> this is definitely the best opportunity.
>>>>>
>>>>> Josh Muckley
>>>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>>>> 1989 C 37+
>>>>>

Stus-List Emergency Tiller Question

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Rudder talk got me wondering – does anyone ever sail with their tiller?
The 35 MK I is one of the very few wheel steered boats where the emergency 
tiller is actually a viable way to steer the boat. I used to use it to steer 
from under the dodger in the rain until I got an autopilot. It is a bit 
awkward, it should be about 1 foot longer and hinged, but beats the heck out of 
most I have seen.
Joe
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing and 35 MK I rudder issues

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I significantly over-thought removing my rudder. Once I got all the stuff off 
the shaft and it was ready to come out, it did not fall on its own. I had to 
turn it back and forth and pull down and then it ended up being light enough to 
just carry around. All the tackle and lines I rigged ended up unused, but I did 
have to stack wood under it putting it back because I greased the shaft up 
enough to where it would slide out on its own.

Thread Creep:
For the 35 MK I, the collar that holds the rudder in the boat is *iron* and it 
will let loose eventually. Also the top rudder bearing is just plastic with a 
hole in it and if it wears, it allows a lot of force on the lower tube.
I replaced the collar with a stainless one, made a new rudder bearing for the 
top, and put another stainless collar on top of that for belt-and-suspenders.

Joe
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

This is actually sounding encouraging.  As soon as Kaylarah hauls at the
end of October, I will pull the rudder.  Fortunately, I have a lathe, so
I'll be able to make new Delrin rudder bearings.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
~~~_/)~~



On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 3:03 PM David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I did the same thing.  In fact I got it back on by myself...
>
> *David F. Risch, J. D.*
>
> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
>
>
> *(401) 419-4650 *
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Gary
> Russell via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, September 24, 2018 1:44 PM
> *To:* C List
> *Cc:* Gary Russell
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing
>
> Joel,
>  Good idea!
> Thanks,
> Gary
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 1:42 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Run a line under the rudder tied to the stern cleat on one side and a
> winch on the other so you can lower it slowly.
>
> Joel
>
> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 1:39 PM bwhitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Agreed.  Ours on our 1994 C 37/40+ came off no problem.  Be sure to
> check the idler pulley plate!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
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> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

[David via CnC-List]

I did the same thing.  In fact I got it back on by myself...


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Gary Russell via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2018 1:44 PM
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

Joel,
 Good idea!
Thanks,
Gary
~~~_/)~~



On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 1:42 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Run a line under the rudder tied to the stern cleat on one side and a winch on 
the other so you can lower it slowly.

Joel

On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 1:39 PM bwhitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Agreed.  Ours on our 1994 C 37/40+ came off no problem.  Be sure to check the 
idler pulley plate!

Bruce Whitmore



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List rudder

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Thanks, Gary.  Sounds encouraging.
Hope all is well.
Gary
~~~_/)~~



On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 2:34 PM ahycrace ahycrace via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary
>
> I've had my rudder off 3 times now (don't ask!).  The first time I
> was able to get the bolts out with a little struggle but they came apart
> with no damage.  I put some wood blocks under the rudder so when I took the
> top collar off it only dropped down an inch or so .  We dropped it the rest
> of the way with two of us holding it and taking the blocks out one at a
> time with 2 guys it was no problem.  We pushed it in and blocked it the
> same way. My boat is a 76  38'  but the project would be about the same
> call me if you need a hand, been down this road before.
>
>
> Gary Kolc "Liberty"
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List rudder

[ahycrace ahycrace via CnC-List]

Gary

I've had my rudder off 3 times now (don't ask!).  The first time I was 
able to get the bolts out with a little struggle but they came apart with no 
damage.  I put some wood blocks under the rudder so when I took the top collar 
off it only dropped down an inch or so .  We dropped it the rest of the way 
with two of us holding it and taking the blocks out one at a time with 2 guys 
it was no problem.  We pushed it in and blocked it the same way. My boat is a 
76  38'  but the project would be about the same call me if you need a hand, 
been down this road before.


Gary Kolc "Liberty"___

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Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Joel,
 Good idea!
Thanks,
Gary
~~~_/)~~



On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 1:42 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Run a line under the rudder tied to the stern cleat on one side and a
> winch on the other so you can lower it slowly.
>
> Joel
>
> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 1:39 PM bwhitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Agreed.  Ours on our 1994 C 37/40+ came off no problem.  Be sure to
>> check the idler pulley plate!
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Great!  Thank you both.
Gary
~~~_/)~~



On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 1:39 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Mine was through bolted with SS bolts and nuts.  Rudder is probably about
> 75lbs.  Too heavy for 1 but not too much for 2.
>
> Josh
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018, 7:24 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Really?   Usually when I have stainless steel bolts tapped into an
>> aluminum housing, the galvanic corrosion makes them impossible to remove.
>> I hope you are right!  Do you have any idea how much the rudder weighs?  In
>> other words, do I need to put a jack under the rudder to lower it down, or
>> can 1 or 2 guys just lower it?
>>
>> Thanks for your input,
>> Gary
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 12:55 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Loosen the drive cables... Then loosen the quadrant boltsno problem.
>>>
>>> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018, 2:56 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Hi Josh,
  How  did you get the quadrant off?  My SS bolts look pretty
 corroded.  Were you able to save the quadrant?
 Gary
 S/V Kaylarah
 '90 C 37+
 East Greenwich, RI, USA
 ~~~_/)~~



 On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 2:25 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I removed my quadrant to rebuild the rudder.  There was nothing
> particularly difficult about it.  The steering cables will inevitably slip
> off the sheaves at the base of the steering pedestal.  They can be worked
> back on with a helper.  If you haven't replaced/inspected the sheave plate
> this is definitely the best opportunity.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018, 12:45 AM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thank you Mike.  There is plenty of room to get at my quadrant, but
>> I'm sure that getting the quadrant off will be miserable.  Thanks for 
>> your
>> input.
>> Gary
>> A/V Kaylarah
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Sep 23, 2018 at 10:53 AM mike amirault via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I replaced the rudder bushings on my C last year. Looking at
>>> the drawings, I believe your 37 had the same build.  Once you get the
>>> quadrant off (bolts will probably break off no matter how much
>>> heat/penetrating oil you use) drop the rudder. You will probably have to
>>> dig a hole in order to get the rudder out unless you have a really tall
>>> cradle. The top bushing is easy to get out but the bottom one I got out 
>>> by
>>> hammering on a pipe at an angle from the inside to catch the top edge of
>>> the delrin bushing.
>>>
>>> Once I had the bushings out, I took careful measurements and had a
>>> local machine shop make new delrin sleeves. Make sure they don’t make 
>>> the
>>> sleeves too tight or you could get some binding as I did and then I had 
>>> to
>>> sand it down a bit.  Hardest part was getting the quadrant off, it’s 
>>> very
>>> limited space back there and I had to remove the fuel tank to get at it,
>>> hopefully your 37 has more room.  Good luck.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Mike Amirault
>>>
>>> C Lovely Cruise
>>>
>>> SMSC
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.
>>> Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
>>> list
>>> - use PayPal to send contribution --
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.
>> Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
>> list
>> - use PayPal to send contribution --
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.
> Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
> list
> - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___

 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send 

Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Run a line under the rudder tied to the stern cleat on one side and a winch
on the other so you can lower it slowly.

Joel

On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 1:39 PM bwhitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Agreed.  Ours on our 1994 C 37/40+ came off no problem.  Be sure to
> check the idler pulley plate!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Agreed.  Ours on our 1994 C 37/40+ came off no problem.  Be sure to check the 
idler pulley plate!
Bruce Whitmore 


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
null___

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Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Mine was through bolted with SS bolts and nuts.  Rudder is probably about
75lbs.  Too heavy for 1 but not too much for 2.

Josh




On Mon, Sep 24, 2018, 7:24 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Really?   Usually when I have stainless steel bolts tapped into an
> aluminum housing, the galvanic corrosion makes them impossible to remove.
> I hope you are right!  Do you have any idea how much the rudder weighs?  In
> other words, do I need to put a jack under the rudder to lower it down, or
> can 1 or 2 guys just lower it?
>
> Thanks for your input,
> Gary
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 12:55 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Loosen the drive cables... Then loosen the quadrant boltsno problem.
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018, 2:56 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Josh,
>>>  How  did you get the quadrant off?  My SS bolts look pretty
>>> corroded.  Were you able to save the quadrant?
>>> Gary
>>> S/V Kaylarah
>>> '90 C 37+
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 2:25 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 I removed my quadrant to rebuild the rudder.  There was nothing
 particularly difficult about it.  The steering cables will inevitably slip
 off the sheaves at the base of the steering pedestal.  They can be worked
 back on with a helper.  If you haven't replaced/inspected the sheave plate
 this is definitely the best opportunity.

 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 C 37+
 Solomons, MD



 On Mon, Sep 24, 2018, 12:45 AM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thank you Mike.  There is plenty of room to get at my quadrant, but
> I'm sure that getting the quadrant off will be miserable.  Thanks for your
> input.
> Gary
> A/V Kaylarah
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 23, 2018 at 10:53 AM mike amirault via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I replaced the rudder bushings on my C last year. Looking at
>> the drawings, I believe your 37 had the same build.  Once you get the
>> quadrant off (bolts will probably break off no matter how much
>> heat/penetrating oil you use) drop the rudder. You will probably have to
>> dig a hole in order to get the rudder out unless you have a really tall
>> cradle. The top bushing is easy to get out but the bottom one I got out 
>> by
>> hammering on a pipe at an angle from the inside to catch the top edge of
>> the delrin bushing.
>>
>> Once I had the bushings out, I took careful measurements and had a
>> local machine shop make new delrin sleeves. Make sure they don’t make the
>> sleeves too tight or you could get some binding as I did and then I had 
>> to
>> sand it down a bit.  Hardest part was getting the quadrant off, it’s very
>> limited space back there and I had to remove the fuel tank to get at it,
>> hopefully your 37 has more room.  Good luck.
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike Amirault
>>
>> C Lovely Cruise
>>
>> SMSC
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.
>> Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
>> list
>> - use PayPal to send contribution --
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.
> Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
> list
> - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___

 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   

Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Really?   Usually when I have stainless steel bolts tapped into an aluminum
housing, the galvanic corrosion makes them impossible to remove.  I hope
you are right!  Do you have any idea how much the rudder weighs?  In other
words, do I need to put a jack under the rudder to lower it down, or can 1
or 2 guys just lower it?

Thanks for your input,
Gary
~~~_/)~~



On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 12:55 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Loosen the drive cables... Then loosen the quadrant boltsno problem.
>
> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018, 2:56 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Josh,
>>  How  did you get the quadrant off?  My SS bolts look pretty
>> corroded.  Were you able to save the quadrant?
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 2:25 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I removed my quadrant to rebuild the rudder.  There was nothing
>>> particularly difficult about it.  The steering cables will inevitably slip
>>> off the sheaves at the base of the steering pedestal.  They can be worked
>>> back on with a helper.  If you haven't replaced/inspected the sheave plate
>>> this is definitely the best opportunity.
>>>
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018, 12:45 AM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Thank you Mike.  There is plenty of room to get at my quadrant, but I'm
 sure that getting the quadrant off will be miserable.  Thanks for your
 input.
 Gary
 A/V Kaylarah
 ~~~_/)~~



 On Sun, Sep 23, 2018 at 10:53 AM mike amirault via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I replaced the rudder bushings on my C last year. Looking at the
> drawings, I believe your 37 had the same build.  Once you get the quadrant
> off (bolts will probably break off no matter how much heat/penetrating oil
> you use) drop the rudder. You will probably have to dig a hole in order to
> get the rudder out unless you have a really tall cradle. The top bushing 
> is
> easy to get out but the bottom one I got out by hammering on a pipe at an
> angle from the inside to catch the top edge of the delrin bushing.
>
> Once I had the bushings out, I took careful measurements and had a
> local machine shop make new delrin sleeves. Make sure they don’t make the
> sleeves too tight or you could get some binding as I did and then I had to
> sand it down a bit.  Hardest part was getting the quadrant off, it’s very
> limited space back there and I had to remove the fuel tank to get at it,
> hopefully your 37 has more room.  Good luck.
>
>
>
> Mike Amirault
>
> C Lovely Cruise
>
> SMSC
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.
> Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
> list
> - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___

 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Loosen the drive cables... Then loosen the quadrant boltsno problem.

On Mon, Sep 24, 2018, 2:56 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Josh,
>  How  did you get the quadrant off?  My SS bolts look pretty
> corroded.  Were you able to save the quadrant?
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 2:25 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I removed my quadrant to rebuild the rudder.  There was nothing
>> particularly difficult about it.  The steering cables will inevitably slip
>> off the sheaves at the base of the steering pedestal.  They can be worked
>> back on with a helper.  If you haven't replaced/inspected the sheave plate
>> this is definitely the best opportunity.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018, 12:45 AM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Thank you Mike.  There is plenty of room to get at my quadrant, but I'm
>>> sure that getting the quadrant off will be miserable.  Thanks for your
>>> input.
>>> Gary
>>> A/V Kaylarah
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Sep 23, 2018 at 10:53 AM mike amirault via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 I replaced the rudder bushings on my C last year. Looking at the
 drawings, I believe your 37 had the same build.  Once you get the quadrant
 off (bolts will probably break off no matter how much heat/penetrating oil
 you use) drop the rudder. You will probably have to dig a hole in order to
 get the rudder out unless you have a really tall cradle. The top bushing is
 easy to get out but the bottom one I got out by hammering on a pipe at an
 angle from the inside to catch the top edge of the delrin bushing.

 Once I had the bushings out, I took careful measurements and had a
 local machine shop make new delrin sleeves. Make sure they don’t make the
 sleeves too tight or you could get some binding as I did and then I had to
 sand it down a bit.  Hardest part was getting the quadrant off, it’s very
 limited space back there and I had to remove the fuel tank to get at it,
 hopefully your 37 has more room.  Good luck.



 Mike Amirault

 C Lovely Cruise

 SMSC
 ___

 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1978 C 26'

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

 Thanks so much for your response Jim. 
This boat was in decent condition, but not Bristol by any means. She's been on 
the hard for a year. The current owner re-cored and rebedded 4 stanchions 
(sadly the work looks a bit rough but has solved the issue). cosmetic attention 
needed as usual but most of the systems were intact and in working order. The 
two cabin lights are permanently fogged and one cannot see out of them. The 
owner said it saves on curtains, but I would like to be able to see out of 
them. Not sure of the cost of replacement and rebedding those...never done that 
kind of work before. 
I was concerned about the engine though she started first turn on a cold 45F 
day on the coast of Maine, but it idled rough and would eventually drop out. 
Perhaps air in the line or governor needs adjusting? Not sure. My main concern 
is the raw water cooling as you mentioned. Hard finding parts for these old 
motors. Would a good descaling be a good idea or should I plan on taking the 
engine apart and replacing heads, etc...or which I have little to no experience 
doing! yikes!!
Compression post and cabin top looked good, no crazing and still very solid 
upon hand inspection. I bounced around the deck, cockpit and cabin top and all 
seemed pretty sound. hull was in great shape, decent prop...a bit of a wobble 
at the cutlas bearing but not too bad. 
MSG tank reeked like death. Any suggestions for cleaning and sanitizing that? 
The V-Berth smelled like a sewer!! Owner said that the head barely worked, I 
asked if he had lubricated the seals and checked the pump, etc...he said he 
didn't think about ever doing that as he just day sails and goes over the rail 
when no one is looking. Good sail inventory. new bilge pump, new impeller and 
all new hoses on the engine. 
I have pics I could send. 
Sounds like you have your hands full for the next few months with projects. 
This one would be keeping me busy as well. Toe rail rebedding hmmm...what 
kind of a job is that??? Im getting scared!! lol
The boat is priced to sell but it would still take a great deal of work I 
think, and I have to get it off the owners property which starts adding up. I 
got a quote for $450 to trailer it to the water.
I do like the boat, I think it would be great in Casco Bay, Maine and a perfect 
little overnighter. I have three kids, one grown and two teen daughters. It's a 
good layout and size for them. 
Decisions...decisions
Chris
On Monday, September 24, 2018, 8:32:28 AM EDT, James Hesketh via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Chris,
I've had a '78 26 for 4 years now and it is the perfect boat for my current 
needs. We are the 3rd owner and it was well maintained throughout its life here 
in Miami where it gets year-round use in the heat and humidity of South Florida.
When we first got it I had to replace the head on the engine -- a SB8 like 
yours and have the -- and clean out the raw-water cooling system. Parts were 
fairly easily available, but it took some time on the phone to locate them.
The deck needs attention under the pulpit and stanchion basses  and the toe 
rail could use a complete re-bedding, but a bead of calk along the deck stopped 
all leaks for now. The main hatch and handrails also needed removal and 
re-bedding. Also the wood in the lazerett needed some attention.

Those were all jobs that are pretty obvious and shouldn't be unexpected at its 
age.
I have just recently discovered the mast step needs replacing -- first the door 
to the head started getting tight at the top, then I notices a little 
deformation on the tops of the bulkheads and, after a critical inspection, I 
discovered some flattening of the cabin to around the mast step. Further 
exploration led me the the mast step where I could feel some soft wood on its 
underside all the way forward where it joins the bulkhead under the king post. 
I've consulted with a rigger friend and we figure we can do the repair fairly 
easily and can probably do it without pulling the mast -- probably 2 or three 
days work, which I will do once it cools down here later this fall. I think the 
bulkheads will be OK, but might need some reinforcement -- I'll know once the 
step is done and the rigging tuned again. 

It's a lovey coat and I don't mind these projects considering what we paid for 
it. And figure we will get many, many, years of service once it's taken care of.
Good Luck with your search.
Jim HeskethC 26 WhisperCoconut Grove, FL

 



Hi there,
This weekend I’m heading up the coast to take a look at a 26 footer in very 
good condition with an inboard Yanmar SB8 (Which I believe may be the original 
engine)?
As I inspect the boat, is there anything that I should be looking at in 
particular? Deck to Hall joints, chain plates, …? Anything that stands out with 
the 26 in particular? Ill do the usual inspection but was just wondering if 
there might be something in particular that may have plagued this design?
Chris

Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,
 How  did you get the quadrant off?  My SS bolts look pretty corroded.
Were you able to save the quadrant?
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~



On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 2:25 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I removed my quadrant to rebuild the rudder.  There was nothing
> particularly difficult about it.  The steering cables will inevitably slip
> off the sheaves at the base of the steering pedestal.  They can be worked
> back on with a helper.  If you haven't replaced/inspected the sheave plate
> this is definitely the best opportunity.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 24, 2018, 12:45 AM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thank you Mike.  There is plenty of room to get at my quadrant, but I'm
>> sure that getting the quadrant off will be miserable.  Thanks for your
>> input.
>> Gary
>> A/V Kaylarah
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Sep 23, 2018 at 10:53 AM mike amirault via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I replaced the rudder bushings on my C last year. Looking at the
>>> drawings, I believe your 37 had the same build.  Once you get the quadrant
>>> off (bolts will probably break off no matter how much heat/penetrating oil
>>> you use) drop the rudder. You will probably have to dig a hole in order to
>>> get the rudder out unless you have a really tall cradle. The top bushing is
>>> easy to get out but the bottom one I got out by hammering on a pipe at an
>>> angle from the inside to catch the top edge of the delrin bushing.
>>>
>>> Once I had the bushings out, I took careful measurements and had a local
>>> machine shop make new delrin sleeves. Make sure they don’t make the sleeves
>>> too tight or you could get some binding as I did and then I had to sand it
>>> down a bit.  Hardest part was getting the quadrant off, it’s very limited
>>> space back there and I had to remove the fuel tank to get at it, hopefully
>>> your 37 has more room.  Good luck.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Mike Amirault
>>>
>>> C Lovely Cruise
>>>
>>> SMSC
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1978 C 26'

[James Hesketh via CnC-List]

Chris,

I've had a '78 26 for 4 years now and it is the perfect boat for my current
needs. We are the 3rd owner and it was well maintained throughout its life
here in Miami where it gets year-round use in the heat and humidity of
South Florida.

When we first got it I had to replace the head on the engine -- a SB8 like
yours and have the -- and clean out the raw-water cooling system. Parts
were fairly easily available, but it took some time on the phone to locate
them.

The deck needs attention under the pulpit and stanchion basses  and the toe
rail could use a complete re-bedding, but a bead of calk along the deck
stopped all leaks for now. The main hatch and handrails also needed removal
and re-bedding. Also the wood in the lazerett needed some attention.

Those were all jobs that are pretty obvious and shouldn't be unexpected at
its age.

I have just recently discovered the mast step needs replacing -- first the
door to the head started getting tight at the top, then I notices a little
deformation on the tops of the bulkheads and, after a critical inspection,
I discovered some flattening of the cabin to around the mast step. Further
exploration led me the the mast step where I could feel some soft wood on
its underside all the way forward where it joins the bulkhead under the
king post. I've consulted with a rigger friend and we figure we can do the
repair fairly easily and can probably do it without pulling the mast --
probably 2 or three days work, which I will do once it cools down here
later this fall. I think the bulkheads will be OK, but might need some
reinforcement -- I'll know once the step is done and the rigging tuned
again.

It's a lovey coat and I don't mind these projects considering what we paid
for it. And figure we will get many, many, years of service once it's taken
care of.

Good Luck with your search.

Jim Hesketh
C 26 Whisper
Coconut Grove, FL




Hi there,
> This weekend I’m heading up the coast to take a look at a 26 footer in
> very good condition with an inboard Yanmar SB8 (Which I believe may be the
> original engine)?
>
> As I inspect the boat, is there anything that I should be looking at in
> particular? Deck to Hall joints, chain plates, …? Anything that stands out
> with the 26 in particular? Ill do the usual inspection but was just
> wondering if there might be something in particular that may have plagued
> this design?
>
> Chris
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 1978 C 26'

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

Hi there,
This weekend I’m heading up the coast to take a look at a 26 footer in very 
good condition with an inboard Yanmar SB8 (Which I believe may be the original 
engine)?
As I inspect the boat, is there anything that I should be looking at in 
particular? Deck to Hall joints, chain plates, …? Anything that stands out with 
the 26 in particular? Ill do the usual inspection but was just wondering if 
there might be something in particular that may have plagued this design?
It seems the 27 footer was the favored the boat of choice and I have found 
little information on the 26 but they seem to be a very nice boat for its size 
for coastal cruising and weekend trips.
Thank you in advance for your insights, cautions and encouragement
Chris___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 152, Issue 65 - C 37+ pulpit

[Bob Tallman via CnC-List]

 affiliated with a national authority (although this is implied).  To the contrary, Section 3.1 simply provides ?By participating or intending to participate in a race conducted under these rules, each competitor and boat owner agrees to accept these rules.?

 

Interesting question if the Rules apply where two skippers familiar with them decide to participate in an informal race.

 

 

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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2018 22:26:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark G 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1982 C 25
Message-ID: <1316977202.160190.1537755980444@connect.xfinity.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

I looked at a few C 25 Mk 2's before I bought my Mk 1.

Some of the early C 25 Mk 2's had an issue where that arch over the door in the cabin supports the mast step.  I believe there was a recall to reinforce the area and then at some point in the production run a design change.

With an extra long shaft outboard (25 inch) and a properly located bracket you won't have a problem with the prop coming out of the water.  I have a 6 hp Tohatsu 4-stroke extra long shaft.  You will have to raise and tilt the outboard to keep the prop from dragging when sailing, though.

Under the best of circumstances an outboard on a transom bracket is a PITA.  The extra long shaft outboard is a bit heavier than long shaft models, so don't go with any larger of a power head than you need.  I basically only use my outboard to get home if the wind dies when I'm out sailing.  There can be a significant weight difference among different outboard brands for the same hp rating.  You might even consider trying to find a used 2-stroke, as they're considerably lighter.  Don't skimp on the bracket.  Get a heavy duty bracket with the spring assist or even the bracket with hydraulic assist.

Other than the outboard transom bracket, both the 25 Mk 1 and Mk2  are great boats.

Mark
'73 C 25 Mk 1




> From: Roger Slade 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List 1982 C 25
> Message-ID: <478527662.8086346.1537359323416@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi all,
> New to the group.? I am going to look at a fresh water C 25 built in 1982 a second time and wondered about any ideas of what to look for that is specific to this model.? I believe this boat has a cored deck and cored hull, so will look for any respective issues with water intrusion, deformities, etc.? Boat has been sitting for past 8 years (indoors) so assume it may be difficult to identify and wet areas of decking, but will look for any cracking or deformities around stanchions, fittings, mast step, etc.?
> Boat has a 15hp OMC saildrive which needs a rebuild (seized) , so thinking strongly of removing that and filling in the hole and going with outboard.? (engine is already out, but drive is stil in).? ?
> Interested in any other thoughts on potential problem areas to check out.
> Thanks!?



--

Message: 5
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2018 22:34:30 -0400
From: Neil Gallagher 
To: Bob Tallman via CnC-List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 1990 37+ bow pulpit repair
Message-ID: <16b64735-84ad-74ef-bf8f-7584e9d73e73@optonline.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"

Bob,

Judging by your area code, you're in Suffolk County (Long Island); I've 
had very good work from Mariah Metals in Hicksville. 
https://mariahmetal.com/services.html
(If you do contact them, tell Ray I say hello.)

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 9/23/2018 10:18 PM, Bob Tallman via CnC-List wrote:
> Good evening,
>
> I have a 1990 C 37+ with bent pulpit.
> Does anyone have knowledge of a repair shop or fabricator that can assist?
> Thanks.
> -- 
> Regards,
>
> Bob Tallman
> rltall...@verizon.net
> Cell: 631.387.6748
> Home: 631.261.0226
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>

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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2018 03:42:26 + (UTC)
From: Bev Parslow 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List cowl vents
Message-ID: <722719566.1271091.1537760546319@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

after loosing 2 vents on 2 weekends I drilled some holes and tied them down. Since then, no more lost.
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I removed my quadrant to rebuild the rudder.  There was nothing
particularly difficult about it.  The steering cables will inevitably slip
off the sheaves at the base of the steering pedestal.  They can be worked
back on with a helper.  If you haven't replaced/inspected the sheave plate
this is definitely the best opportunity.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, Sep 24, 2018, 12:45 AM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thank you Mike.  There is plenty of room to get at my quadrant, but I'm
> sure that getting the quadrant off will be miserable.  Thanks for your
> input.
> Gary
> A/V Kaylarah
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 23, 2018 at 10:53 AM mike amirault via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I replaced the rudder bushings on my C last year. Looking at the
>> drawings, I believe your 37 had the same build.  Once you get the quadrant
>> off (bolts will probably break off no matter how much heat/penetrating oil
>> you use) drop the rudder. You will probably have to dig a hole in order to
>> get the rudder out unless you have a really tall cradle. The top bushing is
>> easy to get out but the bottom one I got out by hammering on a pipe at an
>> angle from the inside to catch the top edge of the delrin bushing.
>>
>> Once I had the bushings out, I took careful measurements and had a local
>> machine shop make new delrin sleeves. Make sure they don’t make the sleeves
>> too tight or you could get some binding as I did and then I had to sand it
>> down a bit.  Hardest part was getting the quadrant off, it’s very limited
>> space back there and I had to remove the fuel tank to get at it, hopefully
>> your 37 has more room.  Good luck.
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike Amirault
>>
>> C Lovely Cruise
>>
>> SMSC
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray