Re: Stus-List Merriman Car stuck

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I had to extract a pin from a car couple years ago.  Fortunately for me, it
was one of the ones with a knurled knob so the pin was large enough to
drill and tap for a small machine screw.

Your split ring pin is much smaller.  Barring successful extraction with a
dental or tool pick as suggested by Josh, consider soldering a wire to the
top of the pin.  Bend it in a small U shape so you can pull both ends.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 9:32 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> One of my crew decided to help out by changing out a bent ring on the pin
> holding the jib car in place on the track.  Unfortunately, he forgot to
> move the car away from the hole and the spring retracted the pin down into
> the hole once the ring was off.   The  top of the pin is now flush with the
> top of the car.  Fortunately, the car is in a commonly used place, but at
> some point I would like to be able to move it again.  Anybody dealt with
> this situation before?   This is our 30-2 with Merriman jib cars that I
> believe were standard on these boats.  Thanks for any suggestions!
>
> Jim Reinardy
> C 30-2 “Firewater”
> Milwaukee, WI
>
> Get Outlook for iOS 
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Merriman Car stuck

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The car is most likely not special and easily replaced.  If push comes to
shove an angle grinder will make short work of the car and allow for
removal.

Short of destroying the car I would attempt to slip a thin dental pick down
the slot between the pin and the car.  Try to catch the hole in the pin for
the ring.  Maybe, maybe not.  If it is a tight interface then probably
not.  You could also try drilling and tapping the pin so that you can put a
small machine screw in it and then use pliers to pull the pin out.  I
imagine that the pin may try to spin as the drill bit or tap begins to
bite.  To help prevent this attach a line to the car so as to side load it
and put pressure on the pin against the track hole.

Good luck,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Wed, Aug 14, 2019, 10:32 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> One of my crew decided to help out by changing out a bent ring on the pin
> holding the jib car in place on the track.  Unfortunately, he forgot to
> move the car away from the hole and the spring retracted the pin down into
> the hole once the ring was off.   The  top of the pin is now flush with the
> top of the car.  Fortunately, the car is in a commonly used place, but at
> some point I would like to be able to move it again.  Anybody dealt with
> this situation before?   This is our 30-2 with Merriman jib cars that I
> believe were standard on these boats.  Thanks for any suggestions!
>
> Jim Reinardy
> C 30-2 “Firewater”
> Milwaukee, WI
>
> Get Outlook for iOS 
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Reading light c 1985. - does any body have one of these they no longer require?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Evening all.   Managed to break one, hopefully someone has one in their spares. 
  

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/08/does-anybody-have-one-of-these.html

Thanks, Dave


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Stus-List Merriman Car stuck

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Hello all,
One of my crew decided to help out by changing out a bent ring on the pin 
holding the jib car in place on the track.  Unfortunately, he forgot to move 
the car away from the hole and the spring retracted the pin down into the hole 
once the ring was off.   The  top of the pin is now flush with the top of the 
car.  Fortunately, the car is in a commonly used place, but at some point I 
would like to be able to move it again.  Anybody dealt with this situation 
before?   This is our 30-2 with Merriman jib cars that I believe were standard 
on these boats.  Thanks for any suggestions!
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI


Get Outlook for iOS

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Re: Stus-List 33-2 Interior upholstery yardage?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Dave,

We had the company that has done our living room do ours, gave him all the 
cushions, and he told us how much he needed. Bought it at one of the discount 
fabric stores in Hamilton.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S via CnC-List 

Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2019 9:23:34 AM
To: C Stus List 
Cc: Dave S 
Subject: Stus-List 33-2 Interior upholstery yardage?

Good morning all. Has anybody reupholstered the interior cushions of their 
33–2, and if so, do you happen to know or recall the quantity of fabric 
required?  Many thanks!
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List rust proof a gauge?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Dang!  Found out!

Actually, that might be an interesting use for it.  :)

Then again it might be that professionally faired bottom with burnished
Baltoplate.  ;)

Dennis C.

On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 5:08 PM Lee Youngblood via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Re:  www.fluoropolymercoatinginmiamifl.com/
>
> So that’s what you’ve been using on your prop that makes your boat so much
> faster!
>
> Ha, now we know.  Lee
>
>
> On Aug 12, 2019, at 7:53 09AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Here is information on the Superior Shield fluoropolymer clear coat.  Not
> sure if they still make the aerosol can version.  I've provided links to
> pics of the can, can with UPC code and the company's website.
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DmOjmhUo6B2w2uCHuuOKOsRAu-dI5oOd
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Z_L8GShGJs3y-9e1i8rFNPsP5qyYQGQL
>
> http://www.fluoropolymercoatinginmiamifl.com/
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List rust proof a gauge?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Re:  www.fluoropolymercoatinginmiamifl.com/ 
  

So that’s what you’ve been using on your prop that makes your boat so much 
faster!

Ha, now we know.  Lee


> On Aug 12, 2019, at 7:53 09AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Here is information on the Superior Shield fluoropolymer clear coat.  Not 
> sure if they still make the aerosol can version.  I've provided links to pics 
> of the can, can with UPC code and the company's website.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DmOjmhUo6B2w2uCHuuOKOsRAu-dI5oOd 
> 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Z_L8GShGJs3y-9e1i8rFNPsP5qyYQGQL 
> 
> 
> http://www.fluoropolymercoatinginmiamifl.com/ 
>   
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 

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Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

This question has been asked before.  Yes, it seems counter-intuitive that
a Teflon or silicone coating would conduct a current.  I vaguely recall one
of the more technically oriented listers answering the question about 15-20
years ago.  Something about the interstitial spaces being coated at a
microscopic level and the electrons aligning in lockstep or something.  I'm
not being facetious, it really was something like that.

All I know is it works.  Like you, I've measured ohms before and after
application of Tefgel with little change indicated.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 11:23 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis,
>
> This question came up at work the other day.  I do the same as you, coat
> the connections then attach.  Battery manufacturers and, in my case, the PM
> schedule for batteries at a nuclear power plant both state scrubbing the
> connections, coating them, wiping clean, then making the connection.  In
> this case they are using silicone dielectric grease but the concept is the
> same.  In my own practice I really don't bother to wipe the connections
> clean.  The question is, if the Tef-gel and Silicone are both dielectric
> (non-conductive) and cover the mating surfaces then how is the electrical
> connection made?  Why does it not increase the resistance of the connection
> - or does it, but just to an insignificant extent?  My ohm meter reads
> zero.  I've smashed the grease into electrical connectors and even outlets
> for weather, water, and corrosion protection with absolutely no indication
> of a problem and always assumed that the metal to metal interface just
> punched through the dielectric and that any insignificant increase in the
> resistance must be dwarfed by that of the risk of corrosion.
>
> Are you aware of any resistance tests being done or of devices capable of
> detecting if ultra-low resistance is being created?
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 14, 2019, 11:48 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Superlube will NOT work.
>>
>> I put TefGel on all metal to metal contact points.  That is, before I
>> crimp a connector on a wire, I coat the wire with TefGel.  Then I coat the
>> ring connector or male/female disconnect with TefGel before attaching it to
>> a terminal block, breaker, or whatever.
>>
>> My buddy and I have about 40 years of collective experience in marine
>> electrical.  Neither of us has ever had a corrosion related failure on any
>> connection coated with TefGel.
>>
>> TefGel is also a good dissimilar metal corrosion coating.  We use it, or
>> threadlocker, on any stainless into aluminum fastening.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 10:24 AM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Dennis,
>>> Do you put the TefGel on the battery connecting surfaces or coat the
>>> surfaces after all connections are made?  Would Superlube work the same?
>>> Wade
>>> Oh Boy C 33 MKII
>>>
>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 13:47 Dennis C. via CnC-List, <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Best to disconnect all the battery cables both positive and negative,
 clean them and reconnect them.  Get yourself some Ultra Safety Systems
 TefGel (
 https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=546)
 and coat the connections with it.  Clean both ends of the cables.

 Like Fred said, measuring voltage is only part of the story.  You're
 really looking for current.  A corroded connection may show adequate
 voltage but may be incapable of passing enough current to start your 
 engine.

 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA

 On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 1:34 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> thanks you.
>
> Ok,  I'll get a volt meter to check the batteries directly.
>  if I'm to check all the grounds, I take this to mean:  follow the
> batteries back to wherever the system grounds to the engine block to begin
> with.  Then each of the battery terminals and finally to where the battery
> banks come to the main ground bus?   I'm really a rookie with electrical
> stuff so be specific if you can.
>
> Wade
> Oh Boy C 33 MK II
>
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 1:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough
>> current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be
>> adversely affected by bad ground continuity.
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>
>> On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Clean all the ground connections.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> On 

Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Dennis,

This question came up at work the other day.  I do the same as you, coat
the connections then attach.  Battery manufacturers and, in my case, the PM
schedule for batteries at a nuclear power plant both state scrubbing the
connections, coating them, wiping clean, then making the connection.  In
this case they are using silicone dielectric grease but the concept is the
same.  In my own practice I really don't bother to wipe the connections
clean.  The question is, if the Tef-gel and Silicone are both dielectric
(non-conductive) and cover the mating surfaces then how is the electrical
connection made?  Why does it not increase the resistance of the connection
- or does it, but just to an insignificant extent?  My ohm meter reads
zero.  I've smashed the grease into electrical connectors and even outlets
for weather, water, and corrosion protection with absolutely no indication
of a problem and always assumed that the metal to metal interface just
punched through the dielectric and that any insignificant increase in the
resistance must be dwarfed by that of the risk of corrosion.

Are you aware of any resistance tests being done or of devices capable of
detecting if ultra-low resistance is being created?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Wed, Aug 14, 2019, 11:48 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Superlube will NOT work.
>
> I put TefGel on all metal to metal contact points.  That is, before I
> crimp a connector on a wire, I coat the wire with TefGel.  Then I coat the
> ring connector or male/female disconnect with TefGel before attaching it to
> a terminal block, breaker, or whatever.
>
> My buddy and I have about 40 years of collective experience in marine
> electrical.  Neither of us has ever had a corrosion related failure on any
> connection coated with TefGel.
>
> TefGel is also a good dissimilar metal corrosion coating.  We use it, or
> threadlocker, on any stainless into aluminum fastening.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 10:24 AM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dennis,
>> Do you put the TefGel on the battery connecting surfaces or coat the
>> surfaces after all connections are made?  Would Superlube work the same?
>> Wade
>> Oh Boy C 33 MKII
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 13:47 Dennis C. via CnC-List, <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Best to disconnect all the battery cables both positive and negative,
>>> clean them and reconnect them.  Get yourself some Ultra Safety Systems
>>> TefGel (
>>> https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=546)
>>> and coat the connections with it.  Clean both ends of the cables.
>>>
>>> Like Fred said, measuring voltage is only part of the story.  You're
>>> really looking for current.  A corroded connection may show adequate
>>> voltage but may be incapable of passing enough current to start your engine.
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>>
>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 1:34 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 thanks you.

 Ok,  I'll get a volt meter to check the batteries directly.
  if I'm to check all the grounds, I take this to mean:  follow the
 batteries back to wherever the system grounds to the engine block to begin
 with.  Then each of the battery terminals and finally to where the battery
 banks come to the main ground bus?   I'm really a rookie with electrical
 stuff so be specific if you can.

 Wade
 Oh Boy C 33 MK II

 On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 1:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough
> current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be
> adversely affected by bad ground continuity.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Clean all the ground connections.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello listers,  I would appreciate any advice you might have on my
>> electrical issue du jour.
>>
>> Mine is a C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring
>> system.  Bank 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V  deep cycles about 
>> 5
>> years old.  Bank 2 is a 12V starter battery dated 2005.  I look after my
>> batteries pretty well and the system seemed to be operating normally.  I
>> have a True Charge 40 battery charger.   One morning after several days 
>> out
>> sailing, drinking lots of cold beer from the fridge and lots of music
>> playing) and running the engine very little, the engine would not start.
>> Starter turned slow, felt like no battery power.  I had the Master 

Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Superlube will NOT work.

I put TefGel on all metal to metal contact points.  That is, before I crimp
a connector on a wire, I coat the wire with TefGel.  Then I coat the ring
connector or male/female disconnect with TefGel before attaching it to a
terminal block, breaker, or whatever.

My buddy and I have about 40 years of collective experience in marine
electrical.  Neither of us has ever had a corrosion related failure on any
connection coated with TefGel.

TefGel is also a good dissimilar metal corrosion coating.  We use it, or
threadlocker, on any stainless into aluminum fastening.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 10:24 AM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis,
> Do you put the TefGel on the battery connecting surfaces or coat the
> surfaces after all connections are made?  Would Superlube work the same?
> Wade
> Oh Boy C 33 MKII
>
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 13:47 Dennis C. via CnC-List, 
> wrote:
>
>> Best to disconnect all the battery cables both positive and negative,
>> clean them and reconnect them.  Get yourself some Ultra Safety Systems
>> TefGel (
>> https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=546)
>> and coat the connections with it.  Clean both ends of the cables.
>>
>> Like Fred said, measuring voltage is only part of the story.  You're
>> really looking for current.  A corroded connection may show adequate
>> voltage but may be incapable of passing enough current to start your engine.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 1:34 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> thanks you.
>>>
>>> Ok,  I'll get a volt meter to check the batteries directly.
>>>  if I'm to check all the grounds, I take this to mean:  follow the
>>> batteries back to wherever the system grounds to the engine block to begin
>>> with.  Then each of the battery terminals and finally to where the battery
>>> banks come to the main ground bus?   I'm really a rookie with electrical
>>> stuff so be specific if you can.
>>>
>>> Wade
>>> Oh Boy C 33 MK II
>>>
>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 1:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough
 current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be
 adversely affected by bad ground continuity.

 — Fred

 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

 Clean all the ground connections.

 Dennis C.

 On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello listers,  I would appreciate any advice you might have on my
> electrical issue du jour.
>
> Mine is a C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring
> system.  Bank 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V  deep cycles about 5
> years old.  Bank 2 is a 12V starter battery dated 2005.  I look after my
> batteries pretty well and the system seemed to be operating normally.  I
> have a True Charge 40 battery charger.   One morning after several days 
> out
> sailing, drinking lots of cold beer from the fridge and lots of music
> playing) and running the engine very little, the engine would not start.
> Starter turned slow, felt like no battery power.  I had the Master Switch
> on 1 so I turned the switch to Battery 2 at which point all 12V electrical
> activity on the boat stopped working altogether.  Prior to switching to 
> Bat
> 2, the Link 20 showed my starter battery at 12.4V with estimated time on
> battery remaining at 225 hours.  I put a portable battery pack onto my
> starter battery and it read 12.4 V from the battery.  However, powering up
> the battery pack and connecting to my starter battery allowed me to start
> the engine.
>
> I went back to harbour and replaced my starter battery with a brand
> new 1000 cranking amps 12V battery.  I charged by shore power overnight
> then left for a few more days on the water.
>
> Now, the current circumstance is this.
> When connected to shore power and Main Switch set to Bat 1,  I see
> normal charging voltages to both battery banks.
> When under engine and Main Switch set to ALL, I see normal charging to
> both batteries.
> After sitting overnight on anchor, I see both Bank 1 and Bank 2 are
> resting at about 12.5 V.  Both banks show plenty of reserve on the Link
> 20.  When I try to start the engine it feels again like I have low battery
> power.  The engine barely turns when I set the Main Switch to either Bat 1
> or ALL and won't start.  If I change the switch to Bat 2, all 12V
> electrical activity on the boat instantly stops.  If I put the portable
> battery pack onto 

Re: Stus-List Replacing Chainplates

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

The pins are SS so I expect the galvanic reaction between the aluminum and SS 
wouldn't be any worse. The aluminum in around the holes in the picture look 
fine.

After reading the posts, I guess I got hosed and bullied by my marina manager 
into replacing my chainplates. Oh well. I'd like to think he was being 
protective and afraid of liabilty. I'm sure he profitted from the work but he 
did get it done for me during the busy season which is rare for most boatyards. 
I now have better than new chainplates now, I helped the local economy a 
little, but I got hosed.

Chuck S


> On August 14, 2019 at 11:26 AM Richard Bush via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> great discussion; regarding the "SS cover" option, would there be any 
> issue with galvanic reaction between the aluminum and the SS?
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 584.4
> Richard N. Bush Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
> To: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> Cc: Neil Gallagher 
> Sent: Wed, Aug 14, 2019 11:12 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Chainplates
> 
> Josh,
> 
> Stress corrosion cracking is caused by chlorides (salt) and high tensile 
> stress, and while it is always a possibility with 304 and 316 SS, keeping 
> stress levels low enough with normal safety margins should minimize it.  Not 
> that common in most marine fittings, even in salt water.
> 
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
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Re: Stus-List Replacing Chainplates

[sv Rebecca Leah via CnC-List]

FWIW. On my LF39 I have 3 stainless 7/16x2 inch 4 ft long chain plates in each 
side. These drop down into the hull and are bolted with 1/2in bolts to frame 
members. I'm not sure they are original, as the boat was upgraded many years 
ago for extended blue water cruising, or maybe racing. I'm not an engineer but 
I wouldn't go any thinner whether you use stainless or aluminum. There alloys 
of aluminum that is just as strong as stainless. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah 
C LF39253-208-1412Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Dan via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/14/19  06:42  (GMT-08:00) To:  Cc: Dan 
, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Chainplates Fortunately our yard doesn't get 
involved with stepping and unstepping masts so it's 100% my discretion.I know a 
guy who does stainless. I was thinking about getting him to check out the 
plates and quote me on new ones made to spec, except instead of 1/2" thickness 
throughout, I would ask for the below deck portion to be 1/4" or 3/8" 
thickness. I'm under the impression that stainless is much stronger and can be 
thinner to achieve the equivalent strength to the aluminum plates. I'm not an 
engineer, but I'd sail with that setup.If these aluminum plates are fine as is 
for another 5 years or so I can put this job off. I've seen much worse 
corrosion.On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 10:23 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
 wrote:


FWIW. My boat has similar chainplates. Half inch thick aluminum about four feet 
long.  I paid $3000 to have replacements made of the chainplates and mast step 
in anodized aluminum. I didn't feel qualified to change the original design.  
The metal shop copied mine exactly, matching the angle of the deck flanges and 
positioning all the fastener holes and the anodizing is better than new.  They 
are shiny.The long story if you're interested:I pulled the chainplates to 
replace some wet core in the side decks. They had only minor erosion under the 
deck in a very small area the size of a dime. The parts above and below were 
fine. I made the mistake of asking the boat yard manager if he thought I could 
repair them using epoxy. He got upset and said they needed to be replaced and 
said if I didn't, he would not restep my mast. He said he would relaunch me 
with the mast on deck and I could try and get some other marina to step the 
mast. A 35 foot Ericson had lost it's rig two weeks prior when a headstay 
fitting parted.  I think he overreacted but I agreed to use his recommended 
shop and they did a wonderful job, delivering all in three weeks.   I probably 
could have gotten a better price somewhere else, but I was in a hurry then.  
Chuck, Resolute 1990 C 34R, Pasadena Md
 
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Re: Stus-List Replacing Chainplates

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 great discussion; regarding the "SS cover" option, would there be any issue 
with galvanic reaction between the aluminum and the SS? 
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 584.4
Richard N. Bush Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
To: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Cc: Neil Gallagher 
Sent: Wed, Aug 14, 2019 11:12 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Chainplates

 Josh,
 
 Stress corrosion cracking is caused by chlorides (salt) and high tensile 
stress, and while it is always a possibility with 304 and 316 SS, keeping 
stress levels low enough with normal safety margins should minimize it.  Not 
that common in most marine fittings, even in salt water.
 
 Neil Gallagher
 Weatherly, 35-1
 Glen Cove, NY
 

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Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Dennis,
Do you put the TefGel on the battery connecting surfaces or coat the
surfaces after all connections are made?  Would Superlube work the same?
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MKII

On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 13:47 Dennis C. via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> Best to disconnect all the battery cables both positive and negative,
> clean them and reconnect them.  Get yourself some Ultra Safety Systems
> TefGel (
> https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=546)
> and coat the connections with it.  Clean both ends of the cables.
>
> Like Fred said, measuring voltage is only part of the story.  You're
> really looking for current.  A corroded connection may show adequate
> voltage but may be incapable of passing enough current to start your engine.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 1:34 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> thanks you.
>>
>> Ok,  I'll get a volt meter to check the batteries directly.
>>  if I'm to check all the grounds, I take this to mean:  follow the
>> batteries back to wherever the system grounds to the engine block to begin
>> with.  Then each of the battery terminals and finally to where the battery
>> banks come to the main ground bus?   I'm really a rookie with electrical
>> stuff so be specific if you can.
>>
>> Wade
>> Oh Boy C 33 MK II
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 1:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough
>>> current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be
>>> adversely affected by bad ground continuity.
>>>
>>> — Fred
>>>
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>>
>>> On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Clean all the ground connections.
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>>
>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Hello listers,  I would appreciate any advice you might have on my
 electrical issue du jour.

 Mine is a C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring system.
 Bank 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V  deep cycles about 5 years
 old.  Bank 2 is a 12V starter battery dated 2005.  I look after my
 batteries pretty well and the system seemed to be operating normally.  I
 have a True Charge 40 battery charger.   One morning after several days out
 sailing, drinking lots of cold beer from the fridge and lots of music
 playing) and running the engine very little, the engine would not start.
 Starter turned slow, felt like no battery power.  I had the Master Switch
 on 1 so I turned the switch to Battery 2 at which point all 12V electrical
 activity on the boat stopped working altogether.  Prior to switching to Bat
 2, the Link 20 showed my starter battery at 12.4V with estimated time on
 battery remaining at 225 hours.  I put a portable battery pack onto my
 starter battery and it read 12.4 V from the battery.  However, powering up
 the battery pack and connecting to my starter battery allowed me to start
 the engine.

 I went back to harbour and replaced my starter battery with a brand new
 1000 cranking amps 12V battery.  I charged by shore power overnight then
 left for a few more days on the water.

 Now, the current circumstance is this.
 When connected to shore power and Main Switch set to Bat 1,  I see
 normal charging voltages to both battery banks.
 When under engine and Main Switch set to ALL, I see normal charging to
 both batteries.
 After sitting overnight on anchor, I see both Bank 1 and Bank 2 are
 resting at about 12.5 V.  Both banks show plenty of reserve on the Link
 20.  When I try to start the engine it feels again like I have low battery
 power.  The engine barely turns when I set the Main Switch to either Bat 1
 or ALL and won't start.  If I change the switch to Bat 2, all 12V
 electrical activity on the boat instantly stops.  If I put the portable
 battery pack onto my starter battery with the switch in the ALL position,
 the engine will go however, it still feels like the starter is turning too
 slowly.

 I'm looking for a single cause to explain all this as up til now, the
 system has functioned well for the 10 years I've owned the boat.  I would
 appreciate any suggestions

 Wade
 Oh Boy, C 33 MK II

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>>>
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>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every 

Re: Stus-List 33-2 Interior upholstery yardage?

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

You could also take all your cushions to an upholsterer and get their estimate 
of the yardage to do all of them. Then buy your fabric ‘in bulk’ and use it as 
needed when individual cushions need reupholstered.
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C XL/kcb

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
 On Wednesday, August 14, 2019, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Go to Sailrite's web site. They have "How To" videos, including one on making 
cushions, including how to measure for the amount of yardage you'll need.
Alan Bergen35 Mk III ThirstyRose City YCPortland, OR

On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 6:24 AM Dave S via CnC-List  
wrote:

Good morning all. Has anybody reupholstered the interior cushions of their 
33–2, and if so, do you happen to know or recall the quantity of fabric 
required?  Many thanks!
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I would be willing to anchor in the outer harbor as we are heading south for 
winter from there.

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

> On Aug 13, 2019, at 7:49 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> As my boat is berthed next to Higgins (and winters there), I asked. Busy. The 
> marinas around here are busy until the end of October. We only have a few 
> slips available – Higgins has about 20 but a lot of repeat visitors, St. 
> Michaels  Marina has more but is busy most weekends, you may be better at 
> CBMM (I am involved there and can ask) and Harbor Inn and Marina is limited 
> and expensive.
>  
> I asked at Higgins (by the way they are new owners and great folks, but are 
> keeping full) so I have to wonder how many attendees would be willing to 
> anchor out – we can probably find a place for a party – my lawn is too small 
> – the shuttle service is rather good, so anchoring is not a problem – I would 
> recommend Fogg Cove by the Museum (and Perry Cabin megabucks resort – you 
> have to endure the Hinckley tour boat and the fleet of Alerions of various 
> lengths). About 10 feet and good holding.
>  
> Would you consider Miles River Yacht Club – again limited slips (bunch of 
> owner boats) but the ‘creek’ has good space and I think the shuttle would be 
> OK to get into town?
>  
> Sorry for no more local knowledge, but it has been a busy spring/summer, and 
> we don’t have a lot of room, but a great place to live and sail.
>  
> Gary Nylander
> 30-1
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2019 4:45 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned
>  
> I don’t think we have a final location. The Maritime Museum is fun. The 
> Harbor Inn on the other side is luxurious. Higgins is a boatyard – not fancy 
> – but nice people. The St Michaels Harbor Marina (sp??) is loud and the 
> owners don’t care. Kind of the party marina over there.
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: Robert Boyer [mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com] 
> Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2019 4:42 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned
>  
> Where in St. Michaels?
> 
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> (Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> 
> On Aug 13, 2019, at 11:15 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Sounds fun! We love fall J
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
> Muckley via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2019 11:11 AM
> To: C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned
>  
> That's right.  Weekend after sailboat show in October.
>  
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
>  
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 10:56 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> I seem to recall something about St. Michaels maybe?
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Replacing Chainplates

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Josh,

Stress corrosion cracking is caused by chlorides (salt) and high tensile 
stress, and while it is always a possibility with 304 and 316 SS, 
keeping stress levels low enough with normal safety margins should 
minimize it.  Not that common in most marine fittings, even in salt water.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 8/14/2019 10:27 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
Neil, you mentioned fatigue cracking in aluminum.  What about stress 
corrosion cracking in SS?


Dan, my thought is that the plates are safe for use of the boat.  I 
believe it is more likely that the standing rigging will fail before 
the chainplates do.  I don't know about you but I have plenty of other 
boat projects that are more worthy of my money.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Wed, Aug 14, 2019, 10:15 AM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Dan,

Grade 316 stainless is about two to three times as strong as
aluminum,
it varies a lot depending on what grade Al you're using. (Some
numbers:
utlimate tensile strength of 316 SS is about 84,000 psi, aluminum
6061-T6, a common marine alloy, is 42,000 psi) SS is also less
prone to
cracking under fatigue loading.

IMHO those chainplates aren't all that bad, the holes are not
elongated,
just a little rough.  It'd be nice to see the top of the holes
where the
load is transferred, but what's visible is decent. There's no
significant wastage in thickness, appears to be mostly the surface
coating that has worn off.  If you're really concerned you can
have them
dye penetrant tested for cracks, could be done in place.

Of course free advice is worth what you pay for it

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 8/14/2019 9:42 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
> Fortunately our yard doesn't get involved with stepping and
unstepping
> masts so it's 100% my discretion.
>
> I know a guy who does stainless. I was thinking about getting
him to
> check out the plates and quote me on new ones made to spec, except
> instead of 1/2" thickness throughout, I would ask for the below
deck
> portion to be 1/4" or 3/8" thickness. I'm under the impression that
> stainless is much stronger and can be thinner to achieve the
> equivalent strength to the aluminum plates. I'm not an engineer,
but
> I'd sail with that setup.
>
> If these aluminum plates are fine as is for another 5 years or so I
> can put this job off. I've seen much worse corrosion.
>


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Re: Stus-List Replacing Chainplates

[Dan via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh, Neil,

Yes, I had people help me remove the mast and when the corrosion was
evident, both sailors working on the connections told me the plates had
plenty of metal and I should just clean them up - which I will definitely
do.

I'm still curious about replacement cost so while the plates are removed
I'm going to get some estimates. From the numbers Neil just mentioned It
sounds like 1/4" stainless would have the equivalent strength, so I'll see
what that costs - but I agree with Rob Ball in that the tops could be
serviceable or re-inforced but I'll see what the pros say when I take it in
for costing - at least I'll know.

Chees,
Dan

I'll report back to the list afterwards.

Cheers,
Dan

On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 11:28 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Neil, you mentioned fatigue cracking in aluminum.  What about stress
> corrosion cracking in SS?
>
> Dan, my thought is that the plates are safe for use of the boat.  I
> believe it is more likely that the standing rigging will fail before the
> chainplates do.  I don't know about you but I have plenty of other boat
> projects that are more worthy of my money.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 14, 2019, 10:15 AM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dan,
>>
>> Grade 316 stainless is about two to three times as strong as aluminum,
>> it varies a lot depending on what grade Al you're using. (Some numbers:
>> utlimate tensile strength of 316 SS is about 84,000 psi, aluminum
>> 6061-T6, a common marine alloy, is 42,000 psi) SS is also less prone to
>> cracking under fatigue loading.
>>
>> IMHO those chainplates aren't all that bad, the holes are not elongated,
>> just a little rough.  It'd be nice to see the top of the holes where the
>> load is transferred, but what's visible is decent. There's no
>> significant wastage in thickness, appears to be mostly the surface
>> coating that has worn off.  If you're really concerned you can have them
>> dye penetrant tested for cracks, could be done in place.
>>
>> Of course free advice is worth what you pay for it
>>
>> Neil Gallagher
>> Weatherly, 35-1
>> Glen Cove, NY
>>
>>
>> On 8/14/2019 9:42 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
>> > Fortunately our yard doesn't get involved with stepping and unstepping
>> > masts so it's 100% my discretion.
>> >
>> > I know a guy who does stainless. I was thinking about getting him to
>> > check out the plates and quote me on new ones made to spec, except
>> > instead of 1/2" thickness throughout, I would ask for the below deck
>> > portion to be 1/4" or 3/8" thickness. I'm under the impression that
>> > stainless is much stronger and can be thinner to achieve the
>> > equivalent strength to the aluminum plates. I'm not an engineer, but
>> > I'd sail with that setup.
>> >
>> > If these aluminum plates are fine as is for another 5 years or so I
>> > can put this job off. I've seen much worse corrosion.
>> >
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Replacing Chainplates

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Neil, you mentioned fatigue cracking in aluminum.  What about stress
corrosion cracking in SS?

Dan, my thought is that the plates are safe for use of the boat.  I believe
it is more likely that the standing rigging will fail before the
chainplates do.  I don't know about you but I have plenty of other boat
projects that are more worthy of my money.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Wed, Aug 14, 2019, 10:15 AM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dan,
>
> Grade 316 stainless is about two to three times as strong as aluminum,
> it varies a lot depending on what grade Al you're using. (Some numbers:
> utlimate tensile strength of 316 SS is about 84,000 psi, aluminum
> 6061-T6, a common marine alloy, is 42,000 psi) SS is also less prone to
> cracking under fatigue loading.
>
> IMHO those chainplates aren't all that bad, the holes are not elongated,
> just a little rough.  It'd be nice to see the top of the holes where the
> load is transferred, but what's visible is decent. There's no
> significant wastage in thickness, appears to be mostly the surface
> coating that has worn off.  If you're really concerned you can have them
> dye penetrant tested for cracks, could be done in place.
>
> Of course free advice is worth what you pay for it
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
>
> On 8/14/2019 9:42 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
> > Fortunately our yard doesn't get involved with stepping and unstepping
> > masts so it's 100% my discretion.
> >
> > I know a guy who does stainless. I was thinking about getting him to
> > check out the plates and quote me on new ones made to spec, except
> > instead of 1/2" thickness throughout, I would ask for the below deck
> > portion to be 1/4" or 3/8" thickness. I'm under the impression that
> > stainless is much stronger and can be thinner to achieve the
> > equivalent strength to the aluminum plates. I'm not an engineer, but
> > I'd sail with that setup.
> >
> > If these aluminum plates are fine as is for another 5 years or so I
> > can put this job off. I've seen much worse corrosion.
> >
>
>
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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Re: Stus-List Replacing Chainplates

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Dan,

Grade 316 stainless is about two to three times as strong as aluminum, 
it varies a lot depending on what grade Al you're using. (Some numbers:  
utlimate tensile strength of 316 SS is about 84,000 psi, aluminum 
6061-T6, a common marine alloy, is 42,000 psi) SS is also less prone to 
cracking under fatigue loading.


IMHO those chainplates aren't all that bad, the holes are not elongated, 
just a little rough.  It'd be nice to see the top of the holes where the 
load is transferred, but what's visible is decent. There's no 
significant wastage in thickness, appears to be mostly the surface 
coating that has worn off.  If you're really concerned you can have them 
dye penetrant tested for cracks, could be done in place.


Of course free advice is worth what you pay for it

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 8/14/2019 9:42 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
Fortunately our yard doesn't get involved with stepping and unstepping 
masts so it's 100% my discretion.


I know a guy who does stainless. I was thinking about getting him to 
check out the plates and quote me on new ones made to spec, except 
instead of 1/2" thickness throughout, I would ask for the below deck 
portion to be 1/4" or 3/8" thickness. I'm under the impression that 
stainless is much stronger and can be thinner to achieve the 
equivalent strength to the aluminum plates. I'm not an engineer, but 
I'd sail with that setup.


If these aluminum plates are fine as is for another 5 years or so I 
can put this job off. I've seen much worse corrosion.





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Re: Stus-List Replacing Chain plates

[Dan via CnC-List]

Hi Rob, Thank-you for responding, this is very encouraging. I agree that
some kind of load spreading cover would be a sensible solution to total
replacement - I will definitely explore my options and report back to the
list when I have it worked out.

>From what I've gathered from this list so far, if the material below the
deck is in good condition (which I believe it is) I can recover the above
deck portion with care and maintenance.

I'll know more once I've removed the plates which I need to do to rebed
them anyways.

Honored to hear from you Rob!
Cheers,
Dan

On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 10:59 AM Rob Ball  wrote:

> It seems pretty radical to replace those chain plates  . . .
>
>
>
> I might take them out and X-Rayed . . . . or even add some metal . . . .
>
>
>
> I picture a U shaped stainless ‘cover’ that goes over top, and still fits
> into the shroud toggles – spread the load of each individual hole better to
> the other one  . . . .
>
>
>
> And/or I’d analyze exactly how much metal is left and do a structural
> calculation on the shroud loading to see how much safety factor is left . .
> . I’ve never heard of a failure . . . .
>
>
>
> (Too bad I can’t remember those structural calculations . . . )
>
>
>
>
>
> *Rob Ball*
> *C 34 *
>
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 Interior upholstery yardage?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Go to Sailrite's web site. They have "How To" videos, including one on
making cushions, including how to measure for the amount of yardage you'll
need.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 6:24 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Good morning all. Has anybody reupholstered the interior cushions of their
> 33–2, and if so, do you happen to know or recall the quantity of fabric
> required?  Many thanks!
> Dave
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwIGaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=-RXb83O9_g8WSuRdSuq0CIMax80UPRg_cZAGpuqmww8=vSDjs4pWY17KRVjWIUIhCI2jDGkTpH_5043-SZjw_bc=
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Aluminum Chainplates good or bad

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I just looked at the photos and agree with everything Bill said (including 
having a look under the deck -- if you can).  Given that the cover is welded to 
the chainplate, inspecting just below the deck surface may present a challenge 
without removing the entire chainplate and cover together.  Can you get a 
moisture meter under the deck in that area?


From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2019 9:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Aluminum Chainplates good or bad

Sounds like it’s more about aesthetics.  If you wanted to make it looks better 
with SS, You could use a ½” Bar above deck like you have but use much thinner 
material below, and taper as you go to the waterline.

However, from those pictures that just looks like surface corrosion. The only 
part I would be worried about is what you can’t see just under the deck. I 
would think you could clean up the corrosion around the holes with some acid 
and a bronze wire brush, or SS wire wheel on a small grinder, prime with some 
zinc chromate and paint again. 

 

Bill Coleman

Erie PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Daniel 
Cormier via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2019 8:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Daniel Cormier
Subject: Stus-List Aluminum Chainplates good or bad

 

Hi all,

My C has HUGE aluminum chainplates that go from the deck down the height of 
the boat almost to the waterline so very long piece of metal. The part under 
the deck is pristine aluminum 1/2” thick. Above deck the aluminum has started 
to show galvanic corrosion. (See photos). The mast is still off, should I 
replace, ignore, price out stainless? - if I replace with stainless can I go 
with thinner plates as 1/2” will weigh close to 100lbs for the piece I’d need 
and cost a pretty penny.

 

I’d appreciate any and all thoughts or opinions.

 

Cheers

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/18w32VAzCIHRD8f5hasX5kmWAaNRUH7tF/view?usp=drivesdk

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XGUuXEXlEHS5vrzGF_QJyku4pQ12reWf/view?usp=drivesdk

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UseiVG20RSlebsVNnit6VrXdDzPydQEq/view?usp=drivesdk

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g6NST9rrXC_XSQQgGzlsfEN5fRQoi8ex/view?usp=drivesdk

 

Dan Cormier

Breakaweigh

C

Halifax, NS

 




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Stus-List Replacing Chain plates

[Rob Ball via CnC-List]

It seems pretty radical to replace those chain plates  . . .

I might take them out and X-Rayed . . . . or even add some metal . . . .

I picture a U shaped stainless ‘cover’ that goes over top, and still fits into 
the shroud toggles – spread the load of each individual hole better to the 
other one  . . . .

And/or I’d analyze exactly how much metal is left and do a structural 
calculation on the shroud loading to see how much safety factor is left . . . 
I’ve never heard of a failure . . . .

(Too bad I can’t remember those structural calculations . . . )


Rob Ball
C 34
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Re: Stus-List Aluminum Chainplates good or bad

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Sounds like it’s more about aesthetics.  If you wanted to make it looks better 
with SS, You could use a ½” Bar above deck like you have but use much thinner 
material below, and taper as you go to the waterline.

However, from those pictures that just looks like surface corrosion. The only 
part I would be worried about is what you can’t see just under the deck. I 
would think you could clean up the corrosion around the holes with some acid 
and a bronze wire brush, or SS wire wheel on a small grinder, prime with some 
zinc chromate and paint again. 

 

Bill Coleman

Erie PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Daniel 
Cormier via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2019 8:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Daniel Cormier
Subject: Stus-List Aluminum Chainplates good or bad

 

Hi all,

My C has HUGE aluminum chainplates that go from the deck down the height of 
the boat almost to the waterline so very long piece of metal. The part under 
the deck is pristine aluminum 1/2” thick. Above deck the aluminum has started 
to show galvanic corrosion. (See photos). The mast is still off, should I 
replace, ignore, price out stainless? - if I replace with stainless can I go 
with thinner plates as 1/2” will weigh close to 100lbs for the piece I’d need 
and cost a pretty penny.

 

I’d appreciate any and all thoughts or opinions.

 

Cheers

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/18w32VAzCIHRD8f5hasX5kmWAaNRUH7tF/view?usp=drivesdk

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XGUuXEXlEHS5vrzGF_QJyku4pQ12reWf/view?usp=drivesdk

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UseiVG20RSlebsVNnit6VrXdDzPydQEq/view?usp=drivesdk

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g6NST9rrXC_XSQQgGzlsfEN5fRQoi8ex/view?usp=drivesdk

 

Dan Cormier

Breakaweigh

C

Halifax, NS

 

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Re: Stus-List Replacing Chainplates

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Your friend should be able to figure out the needed thickness based on relative 
strengths.  I’m sure there are books with tables containing such information.  
I would not simply go with something thinner without having someone 
knowledgeable with metals weigh in.

My two cents.

From: Dan via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2019 9:42 AM
Cc: Dan ; CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Chainplates

Fortunately our yard doesn't get involved with stepping and unstepping masts so 
it's 100% my discretion.

I know a guy who does stainless. I was thinking about getting him to check out 
the plates and quote me on new ones made to spec, except instead of 1/2" 
thickness throughout, I would ask for the below deck portion to be 1/4" or 3/8" 
thickness. I'm under the impression that stainless is much stronger and can be 
thinner to achieve the equivalent strength to the aluminum plates. I'm not an 
engineer, but I'd sail with that setup.

If these aluminum plates are fine as is for another 5 years or so I can put 
this job off. I've seen much worse corrosion.




On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 10:23 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER  
wrote:

  FWIW. My boat has similar chainplates. Half inch thick aluminum about four 
feet long.  I paid $3000 to have replacements made of the chainplates and mast 
step in anodized aluminum. I didn't feel qualified to change the original 
design.  The metal shop copied mine exactly, matching the angle of the deck 
flanges and positioning all the fastener holes and the anodizing is better than 
new.  They are shiny.





  The long story if you're interested:
  I pulled the chainplates to replace some wet core in the side decks. They had 
only minor erosion under the deck in a very small area the size of a dime. The 
parts above and below were fine. I made the mistake of asking the boat yard 
manager if he thought I could repair them using epoxy. He got upset and said 
they needed to be replaced and said if I didn't, he would not restep my mast. 
He said he would relaunch me with the mast on deck and I could try and get some 
other marina to step the mast. A 35 foot Ericson had lost it's rig two weeks 
prior when a headstay fitting parted.  I think he overreacted but I agreed to 
use his recommended shop and they did a wonderful job, delivering all in three 
weeks.   I probably could have gotten a better price somewhere else, but I was 
in a hurry then.  



  Chuck, Resolute 1990 C 34R, Pasadena Md




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Re: Stus-List Aluminum Chainplates good or bad

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I’m not an engineer, but my guess is that stainless will work fine and likely 
stand up to salt water better than aluminum.  The chainplates on my 42 are 
stainless.  Although there is something to be said for direct replacements that 
fit exactly the same as the parts being replaced, I’m not sure this is a big 
issue with chainplates as it’s just a matter of lining up the holes.  If you go 
with stainless, the chainplates can undoubtedly be thinner.  A decent engineer 
familiar with metals can give you the thickness you’ll need to achieve the same 
(or greater) strength.

Let us know what you decide.

From: Daniel Cormier via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2019 8:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Daniel Cormier 
Subject: Stus-List Aluminum Chainplates good or bad

Hi all,
My C has HUGE aluminum chainplates that go from the deck down the height of 
the boat almost to the waterline so very long piece of metal. The part under 
the deck is pristine aluminum 1/2” thick. Above deck the aluminum has started 
to show galvanic corrosion. (See photos). The mast is still off, should I 
replace, ignore, price out stainless? - if I replace with stainless can I go 
with thinner plates as 1/2” will weigh close to 100lbs for the piece I’d need 
and cost a pretty penny.

I’d appreciate any and all thoughts or opinions.

Cheers

https://drive.google.com/file/d/18w32VAzCIHRD8f5hasX5kmWAaNRUH7tF/view?usp=drivesdk
 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XGUuXEXlEHS5vrzGF_QJyku4pQ12reWf/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UseiVG20RSlebsVNnit6VrXdDzPydQEq/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g6NST9rrXC_XSQQgGzlsfEN5fRQoi8ex/view?usp=drivesdk

Dan Cormier
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS






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Re: Stus-List Replacing Chainplates

[Dan via CnC-List]

Fortunately our yard doesn't get involved with stepping and unstepping
masts so it's 100% my discretion.

I know a guy who does stainless. I was thinking about getting him to check
out the plates and quote me on new ones made to spec, except instead of
1/2" thickness throughout, I would ask for the below deck portion to be
1/4" or 3/8" thickness. I'm under the impression that stainless is much
stronger and can be thinner to achieve the equivalent strength to the
aluminum plates. I'm not an engineer, but I'd sail with that setup.

If these aluminum plates are fine as is for another 5 years or so I can put
this job off. I've seen much worse corrosion.



On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 10:23 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
wrote:

> FWIW. My boat has similar chainplates. Half inch thick aluminum about four
> feet long.  I paid $3000 to have replacements made of the chainplates and
> mast step in anodized aluminum. I didn't feel qualified to change the
> original design.  The metal shop copied mine exactly, matching the angle of
> the deck flanges and positioning all the fastener holes and the anodizing
> is better than new.  They are shiny.
>
>
>
> The long story if you're interested:
> I pulled the chainplates to replace some wet core in the side decks. They
> had only minor erosion under the deck in a very small area the size of a
> dime. The parts above and below were fine. I made the mistake of asking the
> boat yard manager if he thought I could repair them using epoxy. He got
> upset and said they needed to be replaced and said if I didn't, he would
> not restep my mast. He said he would relaunch me with the mast on deck and
> I could try and get some other marina to step the mast. A 35 foot Ericson
> had lost it's rig two weeks prior when a headstay fitting parted.  I think
> he overreacted but I agreed to use his recommended shop and they did a
> wonderful job, delivering all in three weeks.   I probably could have
> gotten a better price somewhere else, but I was in a hurry then.
>
>
> Chuck, Resolute 1990 C 34R, Pasadena Md
>
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Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Good luck with the troubleshooting.  
Can’t recall if I responded with this but some 33-2 electrical info and photos 
here

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html?m=1

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 14, 2019, at 8:46 AM, Wade Glew  wrote:
> 
> thank you to all who responded to my email.  I wont be back to the boat for a 
> couple of weeks but you've all given me lots of information and suggestions 
> of a plan to go forwards.  Thanks again, will let you know how it goes
> Wade 
> Oh Boy C 33 MK II
> 
>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 9:31 PM Garry Cross via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> My 2 cents. 
>> Sounds to me like two different bad connections. There is a bad connection, 
>> likely ground path on Batt 2, just the load of the normal house circuits 
>> cannot flow through it. For Batt 1 it sounds like another bad connection but 
>> the house circuit does not draw enough current to drop the voltage enough 
>> that things stop working but the start current drops the voltage to much. 
>> It's all about ohm's law. I = V/R or V = I*R. So with low amps there is less 
>> voltage drop over a bad connection. Raise the current and you produce more 
>> voltage drop. Push 1 amp through a 6 ohm resistance and your gonna drop 6V.  
>> Put a voltmeter there with no load it will read 12V. 
>> Another way, put a voltmeter between the battery - terminal and the + at the 
>> starter. It likely will read 12v. If you hit the start button and the 
>> voltage stays at 12v then the issue is in the ground path. If it drops the 
>> issue is in the hot path. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> -- Forwarded message --
>>> From: Jeff Helsdingen 
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: 
>>> Bcc: 
>>> Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2019 18:47:46 -0400
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice
>>> I would imagine it would also be prudent to check the connection of all the 
>>> ring terminals on both the power and ground circuits from the battery 
>>> through the battery switch and to the starter.  Since it's a "new" problem 
>>> I wouldn't immediately think that wire sizing might be a problem as well 
>>> but "original" cabling that has had lots of extra things added can suddenly 
>>> become undersized quickly too.
>>> 
>>> Jeff Helsdingen
>>> Caposhi
>>> C 35 mk 1 #54
>>> Port Stanley On.
>>> 
 On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 2:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough 
 current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be 
 adversely affected by bad ground continuity.
 
 — Fred
 
 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
 
> On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Clean all the ground connections.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hello listers,  I would appreciate any advice you might have on my 
>> electrical issue du jour.  
>> 
>> Mine is a C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring system.  
>> Bank 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V  deep cycles about 5 years 
>> old.  Bank 2 is a 12V starter battery dated 2005.  I look after my 
>> batteries pretty well and the system seemed to be operating normally.  I 
>> have a True Charge 40 battery charger.   One morning after several days 
>> out sailing, drinking lots of cold beer from the fridge and lots of 
>> music playing) and running the engine very little, the engine would not 
>> start.  Starter turned slow, felt like no battery power.  I had the 
>> Master Switch on 1 so I turned the switch to Battery 2 at which point 
>> all 12V electrical activity on the boat stopped working altogether.  
>> Prior to switching to Bat 2, the Link 20 showed my starter battery at 
>> 12.4V with estimated time on battery remaining at 225 hours.  I put a 
>> portable battery pack onto my starter battery and it read 12.4 V from 
>> the battery.  However, powering up the battery pack and connecting to my 
>> starter battery allowed me to start the engine.  
>> 
>> I went back to harbour and replaced my starter battery with a brand new 
>> 1000 cranking amps 12V battery.  I charged by shore power overnight then 
>> left for a few more days on the water. 
>> 
>> Now, the current circumstance is this.  
>> When connected to shore power and Main Switch set to Bat 1,  I see 
>> normal charging voltages to both battery banks.  
>> When under engine and Main Switch set to ALL, I see normal charging to 
>> both batteries.   
>> After sitting overnight on anchor, I see both Bank 1 and Bank 2 are 
>> resting at about 12.5 V.  Both banks show plenty of reserve on the Link 
>> 20.  When I try to start the engine it feels again like I have low 
>> battery power.  The engine barely turns when I set the 

Stus-List 33-2 Interior upholstery yardage?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Good morning all. Has anybody reupholstered the interior cushions of their 
33–2, and if so, do you happen to know or recall the quantity of fabric 
required?  Many thanks!
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
___

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Stus-List Replacing Chainplates

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

FWIW. My boat has similar chainplates. Half inch thick aluminum about four feet 
long.  I paid $3000 to have replacements made of the chainplates and mast step 
in anodized aluminum. I didn't feel qualified to change the original design.  
The metal shop copied mine exactly, matching the angle of the deck flanges and 
positioning all the fastener holes and the anodizing is better than new.  They 
are shiny.



The long story if you're interested:
I pulled the chainplates to replace some wet core in the side decks. They had 
only minor erosion under the deck in a very small area the size of a dime. The 
parts above and below were fine. I made the mistake of asking the boat yard 
manager if he thought I could repair them using epoxy. He got upset and said 
they needed to be replaced and said if I didn't, he would not restep my mast. 
He said he would relaunch me with the mast on deck and I could try and get some 
other marina to step the mast. A 35 foot Ericson had lost it's rig two weeks 
prior when a headstay fitting parted.  I think he overreacted but I agreed to 
use his recommended shop and they did a wonderful job, delivering all in three 
weeks.   I probably could have gotten a better price somewhere else, but I was 
in a hurry then.  


Chuck, Resolute 1990 C 34R, Pasadena Md___

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Re: Stus-List Aluminum Chainplates good or bad

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

If you decide to replace with stainless, talk to Guido at Garhauer Marine.
My boat repair colleague just replaced all the chain plates on a Cheoy Lee
with plates made by Guido.  They were gorgeous.  No clue on cost.

My buddy is meticulous.  He asked Guido about the origin and trace-ability
of the stainless he uses.  Guido sent him the papers showing the metal
wasn't counterfeit stainless from nowhere.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 7:50 AM Daniel Cormier via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
> My C has HUGE aluminum chainplates that go from the deck down the
> height of the boat almost to the waterline so very long piece of metal. The
> part under the deck is pristine aluminum 1/2” thick. Above deck the
> aluminum has started to show galvanic corrosion. (See photos). The mast is
> still off, should I replace, ignore, price out stainless? - if I replace
> with stainless can I go with thinner plates as 1/2” will weigh close to
> 100lbs for the piece I’d need and cost a pretty penny.
>
> I’d appreciate any and all thoughts or opinions.
>
> Cheers
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/18w32VAzCIHRD8f5hasX5kmWAaNRUH7tF/view?usp=drivesdk
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XGUuXEXlEHS5vrzGF_QJyku4pQ12reWf/view?usp=drivesdk
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UseiVG20RSlebsVNnit6VrXdDzPydQEq/view?usp=drivesdk
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g6NST9rrXC_XSQQgGzlsfEN5fRQoi8ex/view?usp=drivesdk
>
> Dan Cormier
> Breakaweigh
> C
> Halifax, NS
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Aluminum Chainplates good or bad

[Daniel Cormier via CnC-List]

Hi all,
My C has HUGE aluminum chainplates that go from the deck down the height of 
the boat almost to the waterline so very long piece of metal. The part under 
the deck is pristine aluminum 1/2” thick. Above deck the aluminum has started 
to show galvanic corrosion. (See photos). The mast is still off, should I 
replace, ignore, price out stainless? - if I replace with stainless can I go 
with thinner plates as 1/2” will weigh close to 100lbs for the piece I’d need 
and cost a pretty penny.

I’d appreciate any and all thoughts or opinions.

Cheers

https://drive.google.com/file/d/18w32VAzCIHRD8f5hasX5kmWAaNRUH7tF/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XGUuXEXlEHS5vrzGF_QJyku4pQ12reWf/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UseiVG20RSlebsVNnit6VrXdDzPydQEq/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g6NST9rrXC_XSQQgGzlsfEN5fRQoi8ex/view?usp=drivesdk

Dan Cormier
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS


___

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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

thank you to all who responded to my email.  I wont be back to the boat for
a couple of weeks but you've all given me lots of information and
suggestions of a plan to go forwards.  Thanks again, will let you know how
it goes
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MK II

On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 9:31 PM Garry Cross via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 2 cents.
> Sounds to me like two different bad connections. There is a bad
> connection, likely ground path on Batt 2, just the load of the normal house
> circuits cannot flow through it. For Batt 1 it sounds like another bad
> connection but the house circuit does not draw enough current to drop the
> voltage enough that things stop working but the start current drops the
> voltage to much. It's all about ohm's law. I = V/R or V = I*R. So with low
> amps there is less voltage drop over a bad connection. Raise the current
> and you produce more voltage drop. Push 1 amp through a 6 ohm resistance
> and your gonna drop 6V.  Put a voltmeter there with no load it will read
> 12V.
> Another way, put a voltmeter between the battery - terminal and the + at
> the starter. It likely will read 12v. If you hit the start button and the
> voltage stays at 12v then the issue is in the ground path. If it drops the
> issue is in the hot path.
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Jeff Helsdingen 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2019 18:47:46 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice
>> I would imagine it would also be prudent to check the connection of all
>> the ring terminals on both the power and ground circuits from the battery
>> through the battery switch and to the starter.  Since it's a "new" problem
>> I wouldn't immediately think that wire sizing might be a problem as well
>> but "original" cabling that has had lots of extra things added can suddenly
>> become undersized quickly too.
>>
>> Jeff Helsdingen
>> Caposhi
>> C 35 mk 1 #54
>> Port Stanley On.
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 2:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough
>>> current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be
>>> adversely affected by bad ground continuity.
>>>
>>> — Fred
>>>
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>>
>>> On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Clean all the ground connections.
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>>
>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Hello listers,  I would appreciate any advice you might have on my
 electrical issue du jour.

 Mine is a C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring system.
 Bank 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V  deep cycles about 5 years
 old.  Bank 2 is a 12V starter battery dated 2005.  I look after my
 batteries pretty well and the system seemed to be operating normally.  I
 have a True Charge 40 battery charger.   One morning after several days out
 sailing, drinking lots of cold beer from the fridge and lots of music
 playing) and running the engine very little, the engine would not start.
 Starter turned slow, felt like no battery power.  I had the Master Switch
 on 1 so I turned the switch to Battery 2 at which point all 12V electrical
 activity on the boat stopped working altogether.  Prior to switching to Bat
 2, the Link 20 showed my starter battery at 12.4V with estimated time on
 battery remaining at 225 hours.  I put a portable battery pack onto my
 starter battery and it read 12.4 V from the battery.  However, powering up
 the battery pack and connecting to my starter battery allowed me to start
 the engine.

 I went back to harbour and replaced my starter battery with a brand new
 1000 cranking amps 12V battery.  I charged by shore power overnight then
 left for a few more days on the water.

 Now, the current circumstance is this.
 When connected to shore power and Main Switch set to Bat 1,  I see
 normal charging voltages to both battery banks.
 When under engine and Main Switch set to ALL, I see normal charging to
 both batteries.
 After sitting overnight on anchor, I see both Bank 1 and Bank 2 are
 resting at about 12.5 V.  Both banks show plenty of reserve on the Link
 20.  When I try to start the engine it feels again like I have low battery
 power.  The engine barely turns when I set the Main Switch to either Bat 1
 or ALL and won't start.  If I change the switch to Bat 2, all 12V
 electrical activity on the boat instantly stops.  If I put the portable
 battery pack onto my starter battery with the switch in the ALL position,
 the engine will go however, it still feels like the starter is turning too
 slowly.

 I'm looking for a single