Stus-List Re: C 35 Mk 2 available

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Perhaps there's a local Sea Scout troop in your area that would take it.

Alan Bergen


On Mon, May 20, 2024 at 3:06 PM David Kelly via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looking for a little help on options.  My job is being relocated to Europe
> over the summer.  As a result, I am looking to sell or donate my C 35-2,
> hull #207.
>
> I reached out to Mass Maritime and one other place and received a “does
> not fit our program” reply.  Any suggestions are welcome.  I need to get
> serious, as my relocation has gone from a possibility to a reality over the
> last month.
>
> David Kelly
> Baraka, C 35-2
> Noroton, CT
>
> On May 20, 2024, at 2:19 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> I could buy that boat cheaper than repainting my boat, getting a Yanmar,
> and buying all that teak.
>
> Joe
>
>
>
> *From:* Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, May 20, 2024 1:34 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Neil Gallagher 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I interior
>
>
>
> My boat has the same cabin sole, otherwise no where as much as all that on
> the topsides.  I certainly don't have teak and holly in the head!
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
> On 5/20/2024 12:12 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Was this stock? I cannot recall seeing any other 35 with this much teak:
>
> https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/1970-c$c-35-mk-i-9350708/
> 
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Stu
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
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> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: Bilge pump breaker issue

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I've used a Water Witch for more than ten years without a problem.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Tue, Apr 30, 2024 at 2:24 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I much prefer the Ultra Safety Systems junior bilge pump switch. Pricey
> but worth it.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche’ 35-1
>
>
> 
> FWIW, this problem was caused by a short within the Water Wizard (?)
> electronic float switch which was found to have an internal short, thus
> throwing the bilge pump breaker. It looks like the water tight seal for the
> wires of the Water Wizard gave it up and allowed water inside, shorting the
> circuit.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> C 36 XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
>
>
>  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
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> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: Rebuilding Rudder

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Epoxyworks is a free quarterly publication from West Systems. Each issue
has interesting articles by people who have done projects using West
Systems epoxy. I submitted an article, that was published, about building a
wood strip kayak.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Wed, Apr 17, 2024 at 7:15 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Interesting DIY in Epoxyworks about rebuilding a waterlogged C 32 Rudder.
>
>
> https://www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/replacing-wet-core-in-rudder/?utm_source=newsletter_medium=email_campaign=EW_58_content=another-spade
> 
>
> Bill Coleman
> Erie, PA
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> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine hoses

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Remember to check the fuel fill hose. I was working in a locker, one time,
and brushed against the fuel fill hose. I discovered cracks in it, and
after close examination I realized it needed to be replaced.


Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sat, Nov 18, 2023 at 10:31 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Just a reminder to all to check the hoses on your engine.  Just completed
> an 11 day cruise on Touche'.  Once in the home slip, I smelled coolant.
> Investigation revealed a pinhole leak in the hose that runs from the
> exhaust manifold to the heat exchanger on the back of my Universal 25XPB.
> On removal, the hose was very deteriorated.  The engine was installed in
> 2003 and has about 2000 hours on it.
>
> The last couple hours of the trip was pounding into 18-20 knots on the
> nose.  It would not have been a good time for the engine to overheat.
>
> I will be replacing all the hoses on the engine.
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
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> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C spreader cracked

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I have spreaders from a 1984 35 Mk III. They are in very good condition.
The boat has been sailed mostly in freshwater. The long ones are 39". The
short ones are 24".

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Fri, Nov 17, 2023 at 6:00 AM Nathan Post via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
> My rigger found a crack in the spreader on my 1981 C 34 when they
> took down the rig this fall.  It is a longitudinal crack on the leading
> edge of the aluminum profile where it attaches to the mast several inches
> long.  Welding is a possibility, but I am wondering if sourcing a
> replacement is possible. Does anyone know of a source or by chance have a
> lead on a used one from a rig that was parted out?
> Thanks,
> Nathan
>
> ~~~
> Nathan Post
> SV Wisper
> C 34 1981
> Portland ME
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> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: Recommendations to rebuild hydraulic cylinders for backstay

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Lew Townsend did all my Navtec hydraulic repairs. Don't know whether he
does Sailtec, but you can call him at (206) 498-7282. He does quality work.
Others on the list have also used him.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Fri, Nov 17, 2023 at 6:36 AM Allen Miles via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good morning All,
>
> Septima has moved from Hampton Roads, VA to Bayville, NJ. Upon arrival we
> noticed that the hydraulic cylinders for the backstay were leaking. Does
> anyone have recommendations on a reputable service to rebuild them in the
> NJ area?
>
> They are Sailtec branded. However, the marina we are in refuses to do
> business with them based on previous bad experiences. Love to support local
> businesses but also want a quality job. Any suggestions appreciated.
>
> Thanks and have a great weekend,
>
> Allen Miles
> 30 Mk II, Septima
> Bayville, NJ
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
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> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: How to prevent hull scratches

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I find that spherical fenders work better than cylindrical ones to prevent
scratches.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Wed, Nov 15, 2023 at 8:53 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Absolutely yes to cloth coverings on the fenders, and the softer fabric is
> better -
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> On Wed, Nov 15, 2023 at 11:24 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I had my boat painted a few years ago with Awlcraft 2000.  I find that I
>> am getting a large number of light scratches in the hull paint in the area
>> where I normally bring my dinghy alongside to board the boat.  This is near
>> where the launch comes as well, but the location seems to correlate more
>> with the dinghy than the launch (which has bumper pads attached).  My
>> PortaBote dinghy has rubber-like rails and for extra protection, I covered
>> them with pool noodle tubes.  However, it looks now like the pool noodles
>> may be worse than nothing.  Does it make any sense to anyone that pool
>> noodles could scratch paint?  What do others find is the best hull
>> protection?  I could attach some kind of fender to the side of the dinghy.
>> Some people at our club always leave cylindrical fenders hanging on the
>> side of their moored boat, presumably to protect against our less capable
>> launch drivers, but that could work for the dinghy as well.  If fenders, do
>> you find that cloth covers on traditional fenders is more gentle?  Thanks-
>> Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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>> 
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
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> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
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Stus-List Re: Kite jibing--end for end or dip pole?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Dip pole is easier and safer. I started using dip pole on my previous boat,
an Ericson 2-30, and until I stopped racing a year ago, I continued using
dip pole gybes  (mor than forty years of racing that way.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sun, Nov 12, 2023 at 2:03 PM cenelson--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey listers,
>
> My 1995 C 36 XL/kcb was originally set-up for dip-pole jibes using an
> aluminum pole and used the bayonet style fittings.
>
> After it disappeared from my storage location, I decided to go with a
> carbon fiber pole from Forte and fit it for end-for-end jibes since it was
> now pretty light (~11 lbs).  We used it that way but recently we decided to
> go with the dip-pole jibes with this pole. The consensus was that for this
> length boat, the dip pole was the way to go.
>
> However, I think this may be a carry over in thinking from the days when
> all poles were aluminum--at some pole length, such a pole length makes the
> pole too heavy to manhandle on the fore deck.My boat is sort of on the
> border at 36 feet (actually 35.5).
>
> Some local racers suggest using the end for end in light air and the dip
> pole when the wind is up. Of course then my fore deck crew has to remember
> how to do the dance with both methods!
>
> So what is the opinion of the listers--especially those who race AND use a
> kite?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
>
>
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
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> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: Shore Power Adapters.

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Most of the locations I cruise to have 30 Amp receptacles. However,
occasionally I have come across locations with 20 Amp receptacles.
That's when my 20 Amp male to 30 Amp female comes in handy. I just have to
male sure I don't exceed the current supplied at the 20 Amp receptacle.

Alan


On Fri, Jul 21, 2023 at 6:22 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Adapters are easy to make. You can pick up parts at Home Depot, Lowes or
> some local hardware store. I have three or four that I hardly ever use, but
> when I need one, it's nice to have it.
>
> Alan
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 21, 2023 at 2:11 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I think I may have given away my 30 amp adapters with my last boat, but a
>> 125V 30 amp male to a 20 amp female household plug would have partially
>> solved my problem last weekend at a neighboring Club. Not ideal, I know,
>> nobody  likes household cords going to boats.  A  125V 30 amp Male to
>> 125/250V Female Pigtail would have been ideal , but maybe not - I see
>> Marinco does not sell such a plug, which leads me to believe that maybe
>> there is a reason they don't. Maybe it would be a  bad idea to bring two
>> legs of the same 125 Volts into a 250 volt system.  Seems like  like
>> inbreeding. I know enough about electricity to get me into trouble, but not
>> sure about this one, and wonder if there are any actual electricians out
>> there..I could buy field plugs and make my own, but I don't want to fry my
>> system or burn my boat down.
>>  I do have a 125/250 female to 125 household male, which enables me to
>> charge batteries in the winter.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>> Entrada, Erie PA
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>>
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>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
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> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: Shore Power Adapters.

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Adapters are easy to make. You can pick up parts at Home Depot, Lowes or
some local hardware store. I have three or four that I hardly ever use, but
when I need one, it's nice to have it.

Alan


On Fri, Jul 21, 2023 at 2:11 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think I may have given away my 30 amp adapters with my last boat, but a
> 125V 30 amp male to a 20 amp female household plug would have partially
> solved my problem last weekend at a neighboring Club. Not ideal, I know,
> nobody  likes household cords going to boats.  A  125V 30 amp Male to
> 125/250V Female Pigtail would have been ideal , but maybe not - I see
> Marinco does not sell such a plug, which leads me to believe that maybe
> there is a reason they don't. Maybe it would be a  bad idea to bring two
> legs of the same 125 Volts into a 250 volt system.  Seems like  like
> inbreeding. I know enough about electricity to get me into trouble, but not
> sure about this one, and wonder if there are any actual electricians out
> there..I could buy field plugs and make my own, but I don't want to fry my
> system or burn my boat down.
>  I do have a 125/250 female to 125 household male, which enables me to
> charge batteries in the winter.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie PA
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!rYtQ30ApJ6kbLtCqCwAey8p8kcILPmoFzB3gjqfpTG0zZo7h3CAfYz96H5Lm9eeYugAX6HP-_qgW5xmoRcVFXQw$
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stu

Stus-List Re: C Yanmar 3GM 20hp Exhaust Elbow

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I replaced mine after discovering a pinhole in the mixing elbow. It was
corroded so badly that I couldn't remove it from the piece it was attached
to, even heating it with a torch and using a five foot piece of pipe on a
wrench for leverage. I removed both pieces together (easy) and replaced
them with cast iron items. I was able to salvage the nipple.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sun, Jul 16, 2023 at 4:13 PM Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello Yanmar 3GM owners,
> I need to replace the U-type mixing elbow and exhaust elbow assembly on my
> 3GM 20hp.  If this topic has been discussed here previously, my apologies
> -- I attempted a search of the archives but not sure I am conducting the
> search correctly.
> There seems to be debate about stainless steel vs cast iron and welded SS
> vs cast SS.  There is a complete SS kit at
> https://hdimarine.net/product/gm-kit/
> 
> that appears to be high quality and reasonably priced (for a boat
> part...).  I will be grateful for any advice on source for the exhaust
> elbow/mixing elbow and cast iron vs SS vs cast SS.  Also, advice regarding
> the replacement job as I will do this myself.  Thanks.
> Jeff Laman
> 1981 C Harmony
> Ludington, MI
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> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stu

Stus-List Re: Water in mast step

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

My mast step had a drain hole which got plugged with debris. You might have
one as well. Drilling a small hole won't cause a problem.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sun, Jul 2, 2023 at 10:30 AM Dean McNeill via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a 1980 C 34. Keel stepped mast step gets water (from mast) and
> I’m wondering if it’s okay / advisable to drill a small hole in the metal
> step so the the water will drain into the bilge?
>
> Dean
> BarraWind
> C, Halifax NS
>
> _
> From Dean’s mobile
> 902 489 8556
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> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

If you have a gas engine, there might be a filter at the end of the pickup
tube (in the tank). Pull the tube and check to see if it's clogged. My
previous boat had an Atomic Foiur engine. After many years, it would run in
idle, but not at speed. When I pulled the tube, there was a filter that was
clogged. After I dissolved the clog, the engine ran fine.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Fri, Jun 9, 2023 at 7:22 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am out for the first time this season. Engine started right up. Motored
> out of harbor for two hours. Turned engine off for a while waiting for
> wind. Started back up. Ran for 15-30 sec and died. Started up and ran for a
> bit longer then died. Pulled bed to get access and fuel pressure and level
> in racor look fine. Started up and ran fine for 40 min. WTF?  Dave
>
> Sent from my iPhone
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> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!tQRPfX-XUThjE3AjM0bEwKwF7sNhx822aPPa4yeoOP-ytWl0QAF4NzmDM539a1KihgKbplKVB_8wE6BA_OVkW3w$
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List West Coast Rendezvous

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Anyone interested in attending the rendezvous without your boat: Telegraph
Harbor is on Thetis Island, BC. There are several B's plus possibly other
accommodations on the island. You can fly into Victoria, BC, and take a
rental car to Chemainus. Then you can take a ferry, which runs regularly,
to Thetis Island. There are also accommodations in Chemainus and other
places on Vancouver Island.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: Westcoast C Rendezvous

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Hi Glenn:
Telegraph Harbor is on Thetis Island, BC. There are several B's plus
possibly other accommodations on the island. You would be flying into
Victoria, BC, and taking a rental car to Chemainus. Then you can take a
ferry, which runs regularly, to Thetis Island. There are accommodations in
Chemainus also.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Sun, May 28, 2023 at 8:53 AM Glenn Henderson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello Mary-Ann,
>
> I have a C 41 but I am here in Florida. Is there a hotel nearby enabling
> me to participate?
>
> Thank You,
>
> Glenn Henderson
>
> On Sun, May 28, 2023 at 11:33 AM Mary-Ann Pedersen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> For those of you on the west coast, the C Rendezvous is happening at
>> Telegraph Harbour Marina on Thetis Island on Aug 4-6. There are 28 boats
>> registered of all shapes and sizes. The website with details of the event
>> is www.cncrdv.org
>> 
>> .
>>
>> Hope to see some of you there.
>>
>> Mary-Ann Pedersen
>> p. 604.725.4801
>> e. maryann.peder...@gmail.com
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!teT30dZPLoADw1093wMXyiogXgFXyOXZ3NUvSOjOOGTELLV_hekJehedK7SGOP7Ihf9YmHOZIhuzDYAyPijgWmE$
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: v-belt tensioning tool

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I bought a fan belt tensioner, like the one someone answering your request
showed, from JC Whitney. When I searched their catalog online, I couldn't
find it. Perhaps you'll get better results if you call them.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Sun, May 14, 2023 at 12:53 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
>
>
> A while ago someone on this list talked about a simple (and inexpensive)
> tool that could be used as the third hand when tensioning the V-belt.
>
>
>
> The normal problem is that you need, really, three hands: two to hold the
> alternator in position, preferable with help of some lever, and the third
> to tighten the bolt that holds it. That tool was supposed to allow the
> procedure to be completed single-handedly.
>
>
>
> I think that the tool was from McMaster-Carr, or Harbor Freight, or some
> similar outlet.
>
>
>
> I tried to find it searching through Google, but to no avail. In the end,
> I used the 3rd and 4th hand (of a helpful friend), but I’d like to be
> able to do it on my own.
>
>
>
> Could someone point me to this implement?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> 1994 c270 ”Legato”
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!uZ7vhp29lUXHOPcNaNWdZm_xslhfMtUcWOnRcrg1RbR2ehi974o-P8w9YsyNDuVsGUTrpqausBfYdE9IQfxadPs$
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: v-belt tensioning tool

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I got one like it from JC Whitney. I'll find out what it's called when I go
to my boat this week.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sun, May 14, 2023 at 2:08 PM Josh via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Its called a belt jack.
>
> https://a.co/d/4EN0JIj
> 
>
> I originally got mine from my Dad.  Never knew where he got it.  I assume
> some auto parts store.  After tightening the belt on my Yanmar I proceeded
> to test start the the engine.  An unusual and loud metallic sound ensued,
> upon which I immediately realized I had forgotten to remove the jack.
> Ugh!  Well it broke the shoe off of one side of the jack and I was left
> searching for a replacement.  Why google searches for "v-belt tension tool"
> don't work I have no idea.  Google "belt jack" and it immediately comes up.
>
> I did repurchase and also found a welder friend to reattach the broken
> shoe.  Now I have 2.  Swing by Solomons, MD and we can arrange for
> something.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> May 14, 2023 15:54:00 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List :
>
> Hello,
>
> A while ago someone on this list talked about a simple (and inexpensive)
> tool that could be used as the third hand when tensioning the V-belt.
>
> The normal problem is that you need, really, three hands: two to hold the
> alternator in position, preferable with help of some lever, and the third
> to tighten the bolt that holds it. That tool was supposed to allow the
> procedure to be completed single-handedly.
>
> I think that the tool was from McMaster-Carr, or Harbor Freight, or some
> similar outlet.
>
> I tried to find it searching through Google, but to no avail. In the end,
> I used the 3rd and 4th hand (of a helpful friend), but I’d like to be
> able to do it on my own.
>
> Could someone point me to this implement?
>
> Thanks
>
> Marek
>
> 1994 c270 ”Legato”
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!pVthGCUGMgyoINqSEKXSLkzXmGJjDYSRvU4ymtetZ4dLLryCNx9ft0rSd8Y8CFey3IWxF8As2Rz-CVrCNS2feN8$
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Defender Annual Sale

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

You shouldn't have to reimburse them for shipping the wrong item.

Alan


On Sat, Apr 8, 2023 at 2:25 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Well, I did refuse delivery on the black Triton, good suggestion -  I hope
> it all washes out. I would expect I would have to reimburse Defender for
> the free shipping, which is ok.
> However, in the interim, I get this Sale email from Hamilton Marine today,
> (Thanks Don Kern) they blew Defender and everyone else's  price for the
> Pettit Triton out of the water. Of course the Blue is back-ordered, but I
> am a patient man. The sale ends tonite, BTW.
>
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie PA
>
> On Sat, Apr 1, 2023 at 8:20 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Don't accept delivery of the paint. It will be returned to them without
>> you having to pay. Leave a note for the delivery people, in case you're not
>> there when they come.
>>
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2023 at 4:45 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Wisht  I had had the same good luck.
>>> I ordered two gallons, took about 45 minutes to get through the
>>> re-applying to the new website, some ridiculous requirements for the
>>> password, (it's a store, not a bank!) and after jumping back and forth
>>> through a couple tabs and hitting send, saw the color had gone back to the
>>> default of black instead of the blue I had selected.  I called them the
>>> next morning when they opened, and the *nice* lady told me it was too late
>>> - it didn't even have a label on it yet.
>>> I just sawr it has been shipped as black. So now I am going to have to
>>> pay around $150 to send it back, and have it resent.  Not a happy camper. I
>>> think the once loyal employees are quiet-quitting from the new hedge fund
>>> owners.  I have been buying from them since I was a kid in the sixties when
>>> they were selling mostly fiberglass and polyester. . So much for that.
>>>
>>> Bill Coleman
>>> Erie PA
>>>
>>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!vxGKCY5bUe04uFEcImSe23QKtJW3mhCbGvhro8GI30ulR43Uj55-zJ6Po0J06yMpFLFpv80LR2uq6BXYw6uMRG8$
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Defender Annual Sale

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Don't accept delivery of the paint. It will be returned to them without you
having to pay. Leave a note for the delivery people, in case you're not
there when they come.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sat, Apr 1, 2023 at 4:45 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Wisht  I had had the same good luck.
> I ordered two gallons, took about 45 minutes to get through the
> re-applying to the new website, some ridiculous requirements for the
> password, (it's a store, not a bank!) and after jumping back and forth
> through a couple tabs and hitting send, saw the color had gone back to the
> default of black instead of the blue I had selected.  I called them the
> next morning when they opened, and the *nice* lady told me it was too late
> - it didn't even have a label on it yet.
> I just sawr it has been shipped as black. So now I am going to have to pay
> around $150 to send it back, and have it resent.  Not a happy camper. I
> think the once loyal employees are quiet-quitting from the new hedge fund
> owners.  I have been buying from them since I was a kid in the sixties when
> they were selling mostly fiberglass and polyester. . So much for that.
>
> Bill Coleman
> Erie PA
>
> On Fri, Mar 31, 2023 at 4:30 PM Don Kern via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Same here - Ordered a gallon of bottom paint from Defender late yesterday
>> evening, it was delivered today by 3:00 pm.  Defender had the best price i
>> could find.
>>
>> Don Kern
>> *Fireball,* C Mk2
>> Bristol, RI
>>
>> On 3/30/2023 3:00 PM, Mike Rose via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> FWIW..
>>
>> I ordered my bottom paint @ 9:30am today, paint was 15% off, my Defender
>> 1 discount was added, and over $99 free shipping.
>> I was notified @ 11:30 from UPS it had shipped.
>> The Website/checkout experience was nice, bummed that my past order
>> history was missing.
>>
>> Mike R
>>
>> On Thu, Mar 30, 2023 at 2:23 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> FWIW, the Defender sale started today.  I see some good prices on bottom
>>> paint compared to other sites but not sure of the shipping charges.
>>>
>>> Chuck S
>>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> Thanks for your help.
>>> Stu
>>
>>
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution 
>> at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>>
>>
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!sgurgvbzaegme7vYT5D1Lq1EDUuh5ZBtWohFy8rlgoa49asSKPc8MjSAer64vgYJY4p-5rDLfZ6TWTX9gx8ELpk$
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
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Stus-List Re: Cabin Ceiling Panels

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I replaced mine with fiber reinforced plastic (FRP) which you can get at
Home Depot.

Alan


On Mon, Mar 13, 2023 at 1:18 PM John McCrea via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello. I am in the process of pulling all my ceiling panels out so I can
> add new deck organizers, rope clutches and remove the four winches around
> the mast. My panels are a thin marine plywood/veneer covered with vinyl. I
> had painted them in place when I bought the boat and repainted the interior
> cabin sides and ceiling, after having to fix some issues with the cabin
> window frames etc. I am really tempted to replace and wanted to know if
> anyone had gone with a thin plexiglass? Thanks.
>
>
>
> John McCrea
>
> Talisman
>
> 1979 36-1
>
> Mystic, CT
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!r_QSu_xAOTQ2jS1TIymz_h-8Vp_mrs471CwzIn3Iu6mElgbUpQI6-nCsN0n3bDsOnrfTs2kNtYjOYKtYDtElIUE$
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Chandleries

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I like Fisheries Supply in Seattle https://www.fisheriessupply.com/. You
can get on their email list, and get notified about special sales, or just
search their website.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Fri, Mar 10, 2023 at 8:28 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Most people I talk to are disappointed at the direction Defender has been
> going after being purchased by a Hedge Fund, or whomever, and West has been
> pretty pricey since Randy Repass left years ago, and now that doesn't look
> too good -
>
> < 
> Rising Tide Holdings to SD, which means selective default. “We view the
> transaction as tantamount to a default because creditors will receive less
> value than originally promised, and we view the exchange as distressed,”
> S wrote.>>
>
> I guess Rising Tides, dba West Marine, is ebbing.
>
> Does anyone  have any favorites for Parts, like BOE Marine, Go2Marine,
> etc?  I can't find my bottom paint for less than $395 A Gallon. Even
> Fishermen's supply is not that great anymore.
>
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada Erie, PA
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!pBrBs4wWSzra5_xIgH56OBy2R-On3LbzHgMmIN5MkUE8F8KL7rRPJAPfJdLjhMnQ8RYJX5bbielAGZ0VVotdEW8$
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Best Telltale Treatment

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I Found the best telltales are made from reel to reel recording tape.
Attach the tape as though it were streaming forward. Then when you are
sailing the tape will stream aft, and it won't lie flat against the sail,
preventing it from sticking.

Alan


On Tue, Feb 28, 2023 at 8:59 AM Matt Janssen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Randy,
>
> On most race boats i've been on, the standby is coating the telltale in
> McLube or a similar dry silicone lubricant.
>
> However, this does not work for my laminated No 1. The edge of the
> panels/stitching always seemed to catch the yarn. This causes pulls in the
> yarn further exacerbating the problem. This was especially true near the
> telltale windows.
>
> I only had success after swapping the yarn tell tales for a lightweight
> nylon material. The ones from Robship worked well for me.
> https://www.amazon.com/Robship-Telltale-Dinghy-Small-Multi/dp/B09SZM291Y/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Robship=1677599220=8-1
> 
>
> For the tells I did not swap, I trimmed their length to keep the tell from
> snagging on the stitching. I only needed to trim 1" to 1.5".
>
> If your issue is mostly moisture or static, McLube or similar may work.
>
> If you have a laminate or dark colored sail, whatever you do, resist the
> urge to coat the sail itself. Frustrated at a regatta last year i did just
> this... and had to live with unsightly white clouds on the sail. Adding
> insult to injury, the tells were stuck again by the windward mark. (see
> lower window
> 
> )
>
> matt
> Eduam
> C 27 MkV
>
> On Mon, Feb 27, 2023 at 10:17 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers-
>>
>> What, in your experience, has been the best treatment to apply to
>> telltales to keep them from sticking from sails?  I’m talking mostly about
>> yarn telltales along a headsail’s luff, but also ripstop nylon telltales on
>> a mainsail’s leech?  I’ve noticed that sometimes yarn telltales will stick
>> due to static or moisture.  I’d like to find the right magic potion or
>> pixie dust to apply to give them the greatest ability possible to fly
>> without sticking.  Then, making them fly properly is of course up to the
>> crew.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Randy
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!oPgNgknZgpGfSRlgXp8at_BTMwhMpjsy4BGJOg_DzKpcmL63TWFkbq7xNEDLlS4FZsI_W1aY8gRiNRwb4G89XjY$
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
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Stus-List Re: Secondary winches

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

My primaries are Barient 28. My secondaries are Barient 23ST. I like to use
my secondaries for genoa sheeting when single-handing when the wind isn't
too strong. Barient 26 should be good for you. I do dip pole gybes. I use
the primaries (forward on the coaming) for the afterguys, and I use the
secondaries for spinnaker sheets.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sun, Feb 26, 2023 at 10:16 AM Peter McMinn via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> I have the original Barient 28s as primaries on my ‘85 37’ and with
> regular maintenance, they’re still working well and looking ok. Within a
> year, I’ll be acquiring a pair of B 26s of the same vintage that may need
> some work but hey, free winches:)
>
> I’d like to use the 26s as secondaries for spinnaker and sometimes
> headsail sheeting/furling. There’s room on the combing, and the angle from
> a rail block seems workable.
>
> Will this size be suitable for secondary winches? Also, for those who use
> secondaries, what are the pros and cons from your perspective?
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>
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> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Racing at night

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I no longer race, but when I did, I used my wind instruments when sailing
at night. My previous boat had no wind instruments and I used a spotlight,
like you did, to check the genoa telltales. Try using the wind instruments.
I think you'll find they do fine.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sun, Feb 26, 2023 at 9:01 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I just read an interesting article in Practical Sailor on red vs. white
> lights and night vision.  It reminded me to ask a question of those more
> experienced about night racing.  I have only done this a few times and
> found upwind steering at night to be a real challenge.  I normally steer by
> the genoa telltales.  In light, shifting winds which we inevitably
> encounter at the darkest hours, it is especially important to steer well to
> keep the boat moving, but it is hard.   We used a hand held spotlight to
> periodically check the telltales, but that destroys night vision.  Are
> there better solutions?  Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>
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> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
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Stus-List Re: Replacing Original Boom

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

In addition to what I said about the gooseneck matching the boom, my boom
came with a 3:1 or 4:1 in-boom purchase for the outhaul. A cabin top winch
is used for reefing and for the outhaul (when needed in heavier air).

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Thu, Jan 5, 2023 at 9:14 AM Novabraid via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Randy,
> While I've never experienced a Selden boom on any C, I've been racing on
> a Beneteau First 40 (Farr Yacht Design) for the past few years which has a
> Selden spar set up.   I do "pit" on race nights.   The in-boom outhaul,
> reef lines, and vang controls work seamlessly and can be adjusted in most
> reasonable wind conditions.  With regards to the outhaul, there's a winch
> just aft of the rope clutches and I don't think I could pull on the outhaul
> by hand in anything more than 10kts of breeze (it’s a really big main on
> the Beneteau).  It really wants to be on the winch.
> Like everything else, it’s a matter of getting the proper sized lines to
> work with the sheave sizes in the boom assembly along with periodic
> maintenance of the lines and sheaves involved.  Also, gooseneck fittings
> are not universal so if you have bits of the gooseneck welded to the mast,
> make sure that the new one is compatible with mast fitting.
> Good luck with the upgrade!
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1983 Landfall 35
> Padanaram, MA
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
> Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2023 10:57 AM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Randy Stafford 
> Subject: Stus-List Replacing Original Boom
>
> Happy New Year Listers.
>
> I’m contemplating replacing the original boom on my 30 MK I with a new
> Selden BS120-03B.  This is an outgrowth of my offseason project to replace
> sheaves & halyards, add deck organizers and rope clutches to lead lines
> aft, etc.
>
> What attracts me to a new modern boom is being able to run the outhaul and
> reef lines through sheaves at its aft end, through the boom, through
> sheaves at its forward end, down to turning blocks on the mast at the
> collar, then aft via deck organizers to rope clutches.  The Selden booms
> also have a pretty slick internal single-line reefing system for two reef
> points.
>
> I’ve requested a few quotes and so far the price is less than I feared -
> reasonable enough to actually do it.
>
> Have any of y’all done this before, and have any experience to report?
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> SV Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!pqu6XoHfSPPlRFkDEsQGwBXt2GlKgdC7fbIC2g6v50X0RI6zq-9SqPqiRX8wjoX67qpkN6k8lVEFjEbEol7UBhw$
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!pqu6XoHfSPPlRFkDEsQGwBXt2GlKgdC7fbIC2g6v50X0RI6zq-9SqPqiRX8wjoX67qpkN6k8lVEFjEbEol7UBhw$
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Replacing Original Boom

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

After my boom cracked while on an ocean race, I replaced it with a Selden
boom, about five years ago. I'm very pleased with the new boom. Make sure
it will connect to the gooseneck on your mast.

Alan Bergen
1984, 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Thu, Jan 5, 2023 at 7:58 AM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Happy New Year Listers.
>
> I’m contemplating replacing the original boom on my 30 MK I with a new
> Selden BS120-03B.  This is an outgrowth of my offseason project to replace
> sheaves & halyards, add deck organizers and rope clutches to lead lines
> aft, etc.
>
> What attracts me to a new modern boom is being able to run the outhaul and
> reef lines through sheaves at its aft end, through the boom, through
> sheaves at its forward end, down to turning blocks on the mast at the
> collar, then aft via deck organizers to rope clutches.  The Selden booms
> also have a pretty slick internal single-line reefing system for two reef
> points.
>
> I’ve requested a few quotes and so far the price is less than I feared -
> reasonable enough to actually do it.
>
> Have any of y’all done this before, and have any experience to report?
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> SV Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!odt3X3A5vH12Y-9k6ifNXqaLaHRkTJ7TK_mqGuyxQcWZ2YDLfWJCfVaar5GJ5Yn-JAo5rrrdA7D_pt20FlQJDG8$
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance - again

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Spars and rigging are usually depreciated 5% per year, but if the boat is
totaled, the boat, spars and rigging are covered for whatever hull
insurance coverage you have - no depreciation.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Tue, Jan 3, 2023 at 7:33 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Happy New Year!
>
> I've been looking for insurance to cover our boat in the Caribbean and Med.
>
> READ THE POLICY BEFORE YOU BUY!
>
> I got what I thought was a good quote through a British broker until I
> read that the value of the mast decreased by 5% per year - i.e. a 20 year
> old mast was not insured.
>
> Joel
> Rule One Hylas 49
> Former owner The Office C 35/3
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!swyHP5xr3SGkxmGXm7UfM-MwKjn7k8oGTWL1e8YejiJIo7nVsPnaSgodbprO6ZGQX8viYNdEeuvRVwusa5dLORo$
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Happy Holiday Greetings

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Thank you, Stu, for keeping the site and the email list going all these
years. Happy holidays to you and Gladys

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Mon, Dec 19, 2022 at 9:35 AM Stu via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Thanks to the many subscribers who contributed to the C Photo Album
> and this great list.  Without your financial support, it would have been
> difficult for me to continue.
>
> Thanks again, you support is greatly appreciated.
>
> May everyone have a joyous Christmas and a prosperous New Year.
>
> Stu 'n' Gladys
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!u4Ys9ciQ8iUiJAMGUhnpZaeO0HFvCIY2Z7tfGPmo6dsfo2NkBU04dlhS3YHLEUa9X6_qVxfnTsdfJy7XR-YcRBM$
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Moving 43 landfall from GA to FL and riggers.

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

It may be cheaper and less trouble to have two boats- one in Florida and
one on Lake Lanier.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Thu, Dec 1, 2022 at 2:57 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I saw that after I replied.  It may be cheaper to only truck as far as the
> nearest “open” water and then move it by water.  Just a thought.  The only
> trucking company I know works up here in the northeast.
>
> Neil Andersen, W3NEA
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> --
> *From:* david coleman 
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 1, 2022 5:31:18 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Re: Moving 43 landfall from GA to FL and riggers.
>
> Neil and Tom. It is on Lake Lanier .no icw.it
> 
> came by truck from Florida and returns to our second home there on West
> coast Florida. It requires a truck and that is why I asked the group. Last
> time I use a transportation  truck company was 15 years ago and my go to
> driver is retired.
>
> On Thu, Dec 1, 2022, 4:50 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Or hire a captain
>
>
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Neil
>
> Neil Andersen
> 20691 Jamieson Rd,
>
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>
> neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com
>
> LinkedIn: www.linkedin.com/pub/neil-andersen/0/239/a36/
> 
>
> +++
>
> Save money and the environment.
>
> Use Century Gothic font and save 30% of your ink
>
> *** Confidential and Privileged ***
>
> This e-mail message and any attachments are for the sole purpose of the
> intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential and privileged
> information. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution is
> prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the
> sender by reply e-mail, and destroy all copies of the original message and
> any attachments.
>
>
>
> *From:* Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 1, 2022 3:27 PM
> *To:* David Risch via CnC-List 
> *Cc:* Tom Buscaglia 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Moving 43 landfall from GA to FL and riggers.
>
>
>
> seriously, have it towed down the ICW, unless t is stuck in a landlocked
> lake.  I transport company will cost thousands more than a tow.
>
> On 12/1/2022 12:22 PM, David Risch via CnC-List wrote:
>
> David…cannot do the trip on its own bottom?
>
>
>
> *From:* david coleman via CnC-List 
> 
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 1, 2022 2:15 PM
> *To:* Stus-List  
> *Cc:* david coleman  
> *Subject:* Stus-List Moving 43 landfall from GA to FL and riggers.
>
>
>
> Hello all,
>
> First time user here.Who has experienced  a good boat transport
> company.Looking for names .Also any good names of riggers that service Port
> Charlotte  Fl area?Thanks for the help.
>
> David
>
>
>
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
> contribution at:
>
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> t...@sv-alera.com
>
> --
>
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
>
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
>
> SV Alera
>
> C 37+/40
>
> Vashon Island WA
>
> (206) 463-9200
>
> www.sv-alera.com 
> 
>
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a
> contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> david coleman
>
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a
> contribution at:
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!sKfUh2PzvTvt_SjkF8MixgbvsCNxQkXlGzg6vritnUKXMligRUR2s2fPY6aCpaUcBdBMqv6CzfvbfJ8v2DTwMFw$
> Thanks for your help.
> Alan Bergen
Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: Winches in use for dip pole jibes.

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I have been doing dip pole gybes for forty + years. My primary winches are
forward on the coaming and secondaries are aft (like yours). The primaries
are always used for the guys and the genoa sheets and the secondaries are
always used for the spinnaker sheets. Since you are rounding the windward
mark on starboard tack, the genoa sheet is on the port primary, and the
starboard primary is free to use for the spinnaker guy. When you round the
leeward mark on starboard tack, the port primary is free to use for the
genoa sheet. As soon as you round at either the windward or leeward mark,
the port primary is free if you want to tack or gybe. If you use a
spinnaker staysail, the primary is used for the staysail sheet, after the
genoa is dropped or furled. Try this the next time you're out and you'll
see how simple it is.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Thu, Dec 1, 2022 at 11:42 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My tactician and I have a friendly disagreement on which winches to use
> when doing dip pole jibes with lazy sheets and 'guys' on my masthead rig
> C 36 XL/kcb:
>
> On Water Phantom, I have moved the initial primary winches (Lewmar ST 50s)
> forward on the cockpit coaming and added another secondary winch pair
> (Lewmar ST 44s) at the aft end of the cockpit coaming. Thus my secondaries
> are hardly secondary in strength and power ratios, etc.
>
> All our races have port roundings and most are W-L. Thus we are on
> starboard tack at either the windward or leeward mark. I am no expert on
> dip-pole jibes but as I thought thru the sequence of events at the turning
> mark on starboard tack, it seemed intuitive to me to rig the kite with a
> starboard pole always (we never do jib sets!), using the aft secondary
> winches for both the sheet and the guy on the kite. This leaves the forward
> primary winches committed to the headsail as we make the turn at the mark.
>
> After the turn, the primary winches can be cleared of the headsail sheets
> and the other set of kite lines (sheet and guy) can be rigged on these
> primary winches. When it comes time to jibe, the aft secondary kite lines
> become lazy and the trimmers use the primary winches--note the primary and
> secondary winches are only about 2 feet apart. For the next jibe, the
> trimmers move to the aft secondary winches and so on...
>
> At the leeward mark, always on starboard for port roundings, the kite is
> back to being controlled by the aft secondaries (as at the windward
> mark) and the forward primaries can be loaded with the headsail sheets in
> anticipation of the beat to windward just as they were positioned at the
> windward mark. I like this symmetry (but then I am mostly a left-hander!)
> and think it involves less line switching, less time and might be faster
> than using a forward set of winches for both guys, etc.
>
> OTOH, my tactician races mainly in a one design Beneteau 41S fleet in
> Chicago where the primary forward winches have both guys on them, the aft
> secondary winches are used for both sheets always. (I think this is because
> the secondaries might be pretty small on the 41S and they and/or the crew
> may not be able to handle the guys on the secondary aft winches).
>
> Since I have no problem with using Lewmar 44s as primary winches, I have
> the option to do the winches ala the Chicago way or the Water Phantom way.
> Before I commit to having the crew learn how to do these winch swaps as we
> go from jibe to jibe, I want to choose the best way to handle the winches
> and stick with it through the season.
>
> What do the list racers think of these alternatives?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
> New Bern, NC
>
>
>
>
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a
> contribution at:
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!vUPc2BB4BPbQ2KTBeNNg8NMnuKVmashBtlisYX9auO-GBORHm6GeHlV0qLlNN59vn4fVJla0BlJTwUGH0bqT1Hc$
> Thanks for your help.
> Alan Bergen
Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: C 32 Babystay

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I can only think of two reasons for using a babystay - One is to help
introduce mast bend in heavy air to flatten the main. Second is if your
mast "pumps" in heavy seas. It helped on my previous boat, an Ericson 30. I
have a babystay on my boat, and I rarely use it. It came on the boat with a
track on the foredeck, and a rope clutch to the port side of the mast. The
adjustment leads through the rope clutch to a spinnaker halyard winch. If
the conditions I mentioned aren't exhibited on your boat, forget the
babystay.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Wed, Nov 23, 2022 at 7:23 PM Macdara Vallely via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So, I believe that my 82 C 32 had the option for a babystay.  It's
> listed in the brochure, and there is a fitting for what looks to be a
> t-ball fitting just above the spreaders.
>
> No deck fittings on my boat though.
>
> Has anyone gone to the bother of installing the deck fitting?   If so,
> would you mind advising me on how you went about it?
>
> Did you go for a fixed point, or track?  Chainplate to bulkhead; transfer
> the loads through deck to stringers below or beef up deck?  Also, how did
> you tension?  How was it stowed?
>
> I'm interested in installing the babystay to beef up the rig a little.
> The rod-rigging is of indeterminate age, and while it has been
> professionally inspected and passed muster, I am a belt for braces guy and
> I was thinking the babystay might offer some redundancy.
>
> I appreciate all advice and speculation offered.
>
> Thank you.
> Macdara
>
>
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a
> contribution at:
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!uSzgnPHZH1ypMFQ9rRxb6PpAxifIHTyh4Az6p7DCTz328oiPX1v6VqzICGPNO0tYmoI3OxN3elrOUUCGrGB44b8$
> Thanks for your help.
> Alan Bergen
Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: Fuel cap

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Hi Peter:
The thread on the original caps is different from all new ones that I
tried. I ended up replacing the entire fuel fill. I once came across
someone who was trying to empty his holding tank. He had the bronze caps
that were so corroded that he couldn't remove the pumpout cap. I'm not sure
what he ended up doing. Possibly pumping out in the harbor where he was
sailing. If you can't find a cap, I recommend using plastic ones, rather
than the bronze ones.

Alan


On Mon, Nov 21, 2022 at 9:34 AM Peter McMinn via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Alan,
>
> Sorry for the 10 year old thread response here. I have the same
> question—Replacement caps for RC deck fitting. Did you ever find a source?
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a
> contribution at:
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!vvYZ47elEtf5Xu062SB35N4xalqKP_D_hHSDoRi7RnK3L7-Y8tglyIeoTlYaN4QKn118ceDNO7jWKIl3dZrZN2E$
> Thanks for your help.
> Alan Bergen
Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: 35 MK I Mainsheet and Vang

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

4:1 is not enough in heavy air. As you increase the purchase (6:1), you
will have more friction which makes it more difficult to ease the sheet in
light air. Also, as you increase the purchase, you will have a longer
sheet, and it will take longer to sheet in and out. I have a 4:1 purchase
plus a mainsheet winch.  The winch gives me the extra strength I need in
heavy air, and the 4:1 (rather than 6:1) lets me sheet in and out faster.
You have to decide what is more important for you.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sun, Oct 23, 2022 at 9:37 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I just now unrigged the mainsheet and replaced it with a 4:1 mainsheet and
> cam cleat that I had as a preventer for a proof-of-concept. The preventer
> has been on the boat for so long I forgot where it came from, but looking
> at the mainsheet systems online and at Bacons it became obvious this IS a
> mainsheet so I decided to try it out. So far it has only got a light air
> test, I am loving the lack of friction compared to the stock system that
> goes up to the mast and back to a winch.
> My question is this; will 4:1 be enough? Bacon's has a 6:1 mainsheet for a
> reasonable price, I can buy that and send the 4:1 back to preventer duty
> easily enough.
>
> While I was at it I noticed the vang, one of those Quick-Vangs with a
> spring, had the line fed through a turning block far enough from the mast
> that it had a significant change in tension as the boom swung. I have no
> idea how I haven't stared at this for decades and not noticed, the yard
> installed it ages ago and I just never realized they did it wrong. Now the
> line feeds to a turning block almost at the pivot point, changes in tension
> will be almost nonexistant.
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Partially furling the genoa when racing

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

When I was still racing, I used non-furling sails. I started with a 152;
then switched to a 135, and finally to a 110. Each switch gave me a higher
PHRF rating. Switching to a 135 gave me six seconds more, and the 110 gave
me an additional three seconds. Going from a 135 to a 110 cost me very
little speed, but I pointed higher, more than making up for the slightly
lower speed. More often than not I was first to the windward mark. Off the
wind I used a spinnaker, so I didn't need a larger jib.

In answer to your question, I have a furling genoa with foam sandwiched
between sailcloth layers (near the luff). I can sail with the furled genoa
and still have good sail shape. It doesn't damage the sail, but furling on
the wind in heavy air is difficult. I can use a winch, but I have to be
careful not to get overrides. If you don't use a spinnaker, try using the
furled genoa and non-furled genoa, depending on wind conditions. If you
have a 110, try racing with that and get your PHRF rating increased.
Another advantage of the smaller sail is it's easier for the crew to get it
all the way.in much faster. Let us know how these suggestions work.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Mon, Sep 12, 2022 at 7:12 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I was talking to the skipper of a J27 who nearly always wins our PHRF
> class and he was telling me that while he wins a lot, he struggles in
> heavier air.  He said he had recently started partially roller furling his
> large genoa for upwind legs and then unfurling downwind when the wind was
> strong enough to overpower him.  I have never considered doing that and my
> larger genoa does not have “reef points” .  What are the groups thoughts on
> the value/feasibility of this?   Any reason it would be bad for the sail?
> It certainly would be easier than putting on my smaller sail when winds are
> questionable.  I worry about not only sail shape, but when partially
> furled, the furler and genoa sheet are fighting each other, which might not
> be a good thing for the furler.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Eight Bells for Rob Ball

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Over the past year, I have seen postings on Facebook about friends who have
died, but who haven't died. Make sure this is correct before spreading
possibly false news.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Fri, Sep 9, 2022 at 11:10 PM Randal Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers, I regret to report that Pat Mangan Ball posted end-of-watch
> 9/9/22 for Rob Ball, on the C Owners Facebook group 50 minutes ago.
>
> Respectfully,
> Randy Stafford
> SV Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> Sent from my iPhone

Stus-List Re: Diesel fuel tank cap (Fuel Deck Fill)

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I replaced my fill with a "plastic" one, after I lost the old cap
overboard. As mentioned earlier, threads on replacement caps are different
from the threads on the C boats. The plastic one has a lever that lifts
up to help turn the top. If you're messing up the winch handle access,
you're probably tightening the top too much. Finger tight is enough.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Thu, Sep 8, 2022 at 8:02 AM Jeff Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I see rigrite.com also sells just the tops.
>
> On 2022-09-07 18:29, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
> > I replaced my OEM fuel deck fill with new one last year.
> > I found a stainless model that was winch handle operated, and not too
> pricey, but it was not a direct replacment.  You may do better, taking the
> cap to a metal fabricator and getting it retooled.
> >
> > The one I bought was actually smaller in diameter than the OEM aluminum
> one.  I had to fill the hole in the fiberglass deck and drill to the right
> size, before installing the new fill unit.  I was reparing areas of the
> deck, so I had the material and tools to do it, plus I was painting the
> deck, so it became a small part of much larger project and turned out
> pretty nice.
> >
> > Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R Annapolis
> >
> >
> >> On 09/07/2022 3:52 PM Peter W. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> >>
> >> My fuel cap requires a winch handle to open it, however, the “star”
> shaped inset is badly worn, making it difficult to unscrew.  It is OEM and
> 30+ years old (Perko brand), but I can’t find a suitable replacement.
> >>
> >> Anyone found one?  Or, has anyone been able to refurbish theirs?
> >>
> >> Pete W.
> >> Siren Song
> >> C 30-2
> >> Irvington, Va.
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPad
>
> --
> Cheers,
>Jeff Nelson
>Muir Caileag
>C 30 - 549
>Armdale Y.C.
>

Stus-List Re: C Steak Rub

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Hey guys:

This is a C list, not a steak rub list. A number of years ago, it turned
into a cow on the foredeck list. Let's not repeat that.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 3:25 PM schiller via CnC-List 
wrote:

> We use a little liquid smoke, Seasoned salt and pepper.  The liquid smoke
> adds a lot.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
> Whitehall, Michigan
>
> On 9/6/2022 5:03 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Malden sea salt and fresh pepper is all I use. Then I cook the steak on a
> hot grill until rare/medium rare.
> I used to follow the Crocodile Dundee prescription; “chop its hooves off,
> wipe its bum and stick it on the plate.” But I’ve evolved from that.
> I do like to taste steak when I eat steak, though. I hate going to places
> where they garlic up the meat so that’s all you taste. When cooked, I like
> a little Colman’s mustard or horseradish on the side.
>
> Cheers
> Andy
> On the boat suffering through the dreaded plague in Martha’s Vineyard
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> 
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Sep 6, 2022, at 16:55, Joel Aronson via CnC-List
>   wrote:
>
> 
> Probably the salt that clumps. Is there a low sodium option?
>
> Joel
>
> On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 4:51 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Okay, so Stu doesn't sell a C brand steak rub.  I wanted to make it
>> "list legal".  :)  List traffic has been light so here's a new thread.
>>
>> Although I'm usually happy with just Worcestershire sauce, salt and
>> pepper on my boat steaks, occasionally I like to amp up the flavor profile.
>>
>> I've tried a number of store bought steak rubs, McCormick, Weber, etc.
>> Here in Louisiana the humidity causes them to set up into a lump when
>> stored on the boat.  I even keep them in a plastic zipper bag.  One rub I
>> use, Bolners Fiesta Hamburger Deluxe, stays loose and shakeable for
>> whatever reason.
>>
>> Any suggestions on a steak rub that wouldn't clump up?
>>
>> --
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
> --
> Joel
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: erratic and weak rpm

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Could be a dirty air filter, or a clogged mixing elbow. Try running after
removing the air filter (easiest test). If that's not the problem, remove
the mixing elbow and clean it out. If you have an old Yanmar and the mixing
elbow has never been removed, that's likely the problem.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 8:40 AM Nate Flesness via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So my 42 years new 2QM15 starts normally (a little black smoke), but
> *suddenly* she won't hold a throttle setting and wpm wanders down
> erratically, sometimes more throttle helps for a few seconds, sometimes
> not, then she dies,
>
> The problem showed up at the same time I realized I had run her very low
> on diesel. Have added diesel, checked air cleaner, replaced fuel filter,
> done the normal fuel filter bleed, and as I said, she starts fine, but the
> problem remains. I pulled the "brillo pad" filter inside the fuel tank
> years ago, polished tank and fuel, and have used Biobior every winter since.
>
> Ideas most welcome!
>
> Nate
> Sarah Jean
> C 30-1
> St, Croix River
> Hudson WI
>

Stus-List Re: TMC galley pump installation

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

You have to remove the rubber cover from the pump handle. It has to be
pried off.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Mon, Aug 29, 2022 at 5:07 PM itirifon--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> The galley pump on my C 33-2 started to leak and I bough a new one
> (TMC-70701) which seems to be an exact in place replacement. The problem I
> have is that I can’t take the pedal out through the hole that is cut. Do I
> have to take the pump into parts and reassemble - feels like this is not
> the right approach?
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1qyWnQw8quUubMBxYOA99EZbm0J_GN5m-?usp=sharing
> 
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jimmi
> 1987 C 33 MKII
> Anacortes, WA
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Running Lights Blowing Fuses

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Try troubleshooting with only one fixture, while the others aren't screwed
down. Then screw the cover on without the bulb inserted. If that doesn't
blow the fuxe, try it with the bulb inserted. If that blows the fuse,
reverse the bulb in the socket. If the problem still persists, rewire the
fixture (connect the fixture wires to the opposite source wires.). Keep us
informed about what you find.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Thu, Aug 11, 2022 at 5:11 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello Listers,
>
> I’m in need of your sage advice or at least hypotheses on an electrical
> problem.
>
> Here’s the background.  Late last season my starboard running light bulb
> burnt out.  It was a simple incandescent bulb, and the fixtures were
> probably original.  So I thought hey, why not replace all three running
> lights with LEDs.  In the process of doing that, I accidentally dropped the
> port fixture’s dome cover to the bottom of my slip (no chance of recovery;
> zero visibility).  So, shit.  I buy three new fixtures which have the same
> hole pattern as the old ones but of course take different bulbs so I had to
> buy LED festoon-style bulbs too.  What started out as a simple $1.50 bulb
> replacement turned into a $150 project.  And of course the new fixtures’
> bases are thicker than the old, so I had to get longer stainless screws and
> drill and tap deeper holes in the stemhead casting.
>
> Well, after getting everything back together I discovered the running
> lights circuit is blowing its fuse within seconds of switching it on.  But
> only when the dome covers are screwed on to forward fixtures (the new stern
> fixture including dome cover screws into the teak taffrail and causes no
> problems).  I’ve now isolated the misbehavior to screwing the forward dome
> covers on.  If I leave the covers off, the LED bulbs burn all night.  I can
> press down on the fixtures and twist the LED bulbs around no problem - none
> of that causes any contact that shorts the circuit.  If I put the covers on
> but don’t screw them down, the LED bulbs burn all night.  But as soon as I
> screw those forward covers down, blown fuse.
>
> I’ve pulled the fixtures and looked carefully again at all the wiring,
> including in the forepeak under the deck.  There is no pinched wire or cut
> insulation.  The wiring to the fixtures goes through different (and much
> bigger) holes than any of the screws do.  My heat-shrink butt connections
> are tight.  As a short-term solution I just bought some nylon screws to
> hold the covers down.  I haven’t tested that yet, but hopefully it works.
>
> Meanwhile I’m pretty mystified.  Any theories?
>
> Thanks,
> Randy Stafford
> SV Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
>

Stus-List Re: Barient 26 winch questions

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

West Marine used to carry pawls and springs that fit Barient winches

On Wed, Jul 13, 2022 at 11:23 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone know the drum diameter of the Barient 26s that are on the 35
> MK I?
>
> Also do I dare take them apart for greasing? If a spring shoots overboard
> can I still get more?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Joe
>
>
> --
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

Stus-List Re: Engine not turning over

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I once helped a friend troubleshoot a starting problem. We removed the
starter and had the Yanmar distributor test it. It tested fine, but when I
reinstalled the starter it still wouldn't work. Long story short, there was
a loose connection between the solenoid and the starter motor, internal to
the starter.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Thu, Jul 7, 2022 at 7:44 AM John McCrea via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yes, the whole ignition panel,gauges, including blower.
>
>
>
> *From:* Wade Glew via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 7, 2022 10:13 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Wade Glew 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Engine not turning over
>
>
>
> What "control panel" are you referring to?  Ignition, oil/fuel gauges etc?
>
> Wade
>
> Oh boy 33 mk II
>
> Lake of the Woods
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 7, 2022, 08:48 Jeff Nelson via CnC-List, <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> It's not for the starter...It is for power to the control panel.  It just
> happens to be behind the starter on top of the engine...
> Which in my opinion is a really stupid place to hide it, and took me
> forever to find.
>
>
> --
>
> Cheers,
>
>   Jeff Nelson
>
>   Muir Caileag
>
>   C 30 - 549
>
>   Armdale Y.C
>
>
>
> On 2022-07-07 10:42, Chris Riedinger via CnC-List wrote:
>
> That fuse holder is especially syrange- starters are the exception to the
> rule that all loads should have appropriate rated fuses or breakers
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 7, 2022, 6:36 AM Jeff Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Had this happen to me.  Mine has an obscure fuse right side facing aft,
> near the starter.  My fuse holder had
> cracked and was intermittently permitting things to work perfectly or not
> at all.  Check that, and the ground
> as others have mentioned.
>
>
> --
>
> Cheers,
>
>   Jeff Nelson
>
>   Muir Caileag
>
>   C 30 - 549
>
>   Armdale Y.C.
>
> On 2022-07-07 10:07, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Last night, out of the blue, my engine would not turn over after a race.
> Nothing at all when I push the start button.  I ran the engine before the
> race and all was fine and have had no issues at all this year.
> Fortunately, I was able to sail the short distance to the mooring without a
> problem.  I will be going out to the boat later to try to fix the problem
> and wanted to see if anyone had thoughts on the problem from personal
> experience.
>
>
>
> Plenty of power- batteries fully charged.  I tried bridging the two
> batteries just to be sure and still nothing happens.
>
> Key switch on I can hear the fuel pump ticking over.
>
>  I measured 12V across the start button poles, which goes to zero when
> pressed and my recollection is that is normal the way it is wired with the
> glow plug button.  I have not yet measured at the starter, as that is a
> real PITA to get to.
>
>
>
> Everything had been working fine up until that incident.  The only thing
> that happened during the race, (and I don’t think relevant) is that the
> genoa sheet got wrapped around the engine stop pull knob at one point.  I
> checked and the cable and stop look fine, and the engine should still turn
> over even if it were pulled, is my understanding.  It just should not
> start.
>
>
>
> So I am thinking either engine ground wire or starter and plan to clean
> both and try again.  Any thoughts welcome.  Thanks- Dave
>
>
>
> S/V Aries
>
> 1990 C 34+
>
> New London, CT
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Cheers,
>
>   Jeff Nelson
>
>   Muir Caileag
>
>   C 30 - 549
>
>   Armdale Y.C.
>
>

Stus-List Re: Engine not turning over

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

It could be the solenoid. Run jumpers from the battery to the starter,
bypassing the solenoid. If that does it, it's the solenoid. Or, you could
try using a ;multimeter to see what the voltage is at the input to the
solenoid and at the output of the solenoid when you turn the key.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Thu, Jul 7, 2022 at 6:49 AM Jeff Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It's not for the starter...It is for power to the control panel.  It just
> happens to be behind the starter on top of the engine...
> Which in my opinion is a really stupid place to hide it, and took me
> forever to find.
>
> --
> Cheers,
>   Jeff Nelson
>   Muir Caileag
>   C 30 - 549
>   Armdale Y.C
>
>
>
> On 2022-07-07 10:42, Chris Riedinger via CnC-List wrote:
>
> That fuse holder is especially syrange- starters are the exception to the
> rule that all loads should have appropriate rated fuses or breakers
>
> On Thu, Jul 7, 2022, 6:36 AM Jeff Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Had this happen to me.  Mine has an obscure fuse right side facing aft,
>> near the starter.  My fuse holder had
>> cracked and was intermittently permitting things to work perfectly or not
>> at all.  Check that, and the ground
>> as others have mentioned.
>>
>> --
>> Cheers,
>>   Jeff Nelson
>>   Muir Caileag
>>   C 30 - 549
>>   Armdale Y.C.
>>
>> On 2022-07-07 10:07, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Last night, out of the blue, my engine would not turn over after a race.
>> Nothing at all when I push the start button.  I ran the engine before the
>> race and all was fine and have had no issues at all this year.
>> Fortunately, I was able to sail the short distance to the mooring without a
>> problem.  I will be going out to the boat later to try to fix the problem
>> and wanted to see if anyone had thoughts on the problem from personal
>> experience.
>>
>> Plenty of power- batteries fully charged.  I tried bridging the two
>> batteries just to be sure and still nothing happens.
>> Key switch on I can hear the fuel pump ticking over.
>>  I measured 12V across the start button poles, which goes to zero when
>> pressed and my recollection is that is normal the way it is wired with the
>> glow plug button.  I have not yet measured at the starter, as that is a
>> real PITA to get to.
>>
>> Everything had been working fine up until that incident.  The only thing
>> that happened during the race, (and I don’t think relevant) is that the
>> genoa sheet got wrapped around the engine stop pull knob at one point.  I
>> checked and the cable and stop look fine, and the engine should still turn
>> over even if it were pulled, is my understanding.  It just should not
>> start.
>>
>> So I am thinking either engine ground wire or starter and plan to clean
>> both and try again.  Any thoughts welcome.  Thanks- Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>>
>>
> --
> Cheers,
>   Jeff Nelson
>   Muir Caileag
>   C 30 - 549
>   Armdale Y.C.
>
>

Stus-List Re: Adding a second house battery

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

What are you trying to accomplish? If  you want a spare battery bank,
connect the negatives together, and get a SPST switch to be able to switch
between the positive poles on the two banks. Another way is to get a DPDT
switch and switch both the positive and the negative poles. If  you want
more current capacity, just connect the two positives together and the two
negatives together. Nothing else has to change.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Mon, Jul 4, 2022 at 6:41 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Actually is for an RV but I can think of no better place to get answer to
> this type of question than this list.
>
>
>
> Came with one group 27 deep cycle battery.  Wish to add a second and have
> been told that nothing needs to change re the charging systems, etc …  What
> is involved in adding a second group 27 battery?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>

Stus-List Re: hydraulic ram backstay

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Recommendation to anyone who needs hydraulic work done. Contact Lew
Townsend in Seattle.(206) 498-7282. email address lewtowns...@comcast.net.
Several people on the list have used him with excellent results.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sat, Jul 2, 2022 at 1:21 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey guys,
> Just wanted to confess something that went wrong and I'm still learning.  Had
> a major "fail" today trying to rebuild a hydraulic ram for my backstay.
> Moral of the story: take it to a qualified service company.
>
> Background:
> My local hydraulic repair shop that rebuilt my ram fifteen years ago, was
> very busy, short workers, and needed *three or four weeks* before getting
> to look at my leaking ram.  A friend of mine said I might be able to
> replace the seals myself.  I checked YouTube and learned a few tricks and
> found the drawings and operation manual for Navtec rams, ordered the seal
> kit online and carefully disassembled the ram and installed the new seals,
> o-rings, bearings, etc but hit a wall trying to put it all back together.
> I couldn't get one of the seals onto the piston and I couldn't get that
> whole assembly to go into the cylinder.  It takes special tools and skills,
> I don't have.
>
> Good news:  I took my kit to my local repair shop today, and explained my
> problem, and they looked it over, said most of it looked good, but I nicked
> one of the seals, and feeling sorry for me, they ordered me a new part, and
> put me ahead on their schedule.
>
> I hate having systems on my boat I can't service myself but I guess some
> things are best left to the professional.
>
> Chuck S
>

Stus-List Re: Insurance... what is to much?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Call Progressive directly. They insured my boat.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sun, Jun 26, 2022 at 5:13 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm going through this right now.  I got a letter from my insurance
> company questioning my "agreed value".  Years ago I got a condition and
> value survey for Touche' (1971 35-1) for $40K.  That's what I had it
> insured for.
>
> The letter said the "most recent used boat price guide lists the current
> market value between $15,300 and $17,300".  I don't disagree that
> many sisterboats without upgrades and refurbishments on Yachtworld are
> priced in that range.  As always, value depends on market and condition.
>
> Okay, $40K is a bit high.  I asked if my policy was truly an "agreed
> value" policy.  They said no.  One can insure a boat for way more than it's
> worth but I doubt the insurance provider would happily write a check for
> that amount.
>
> Now what?  If the boat is physically damaged but largely intact, they will
> pay to fix it or total it based on the repair vendor's estimate.  The
> adjuster can look at the boat and hopefully see that it is in much better
> condition than the ones currently on the market.  I will show the adjuster
> the differences and all the upgrades and hope that the adjuster agrees with
> me.
>
> Now what happens if the boat burns and is completely destroyed
> with nothing remaining for the adjuster to look at?  I plan on taking lots
> of pictures and arguing with the adjuster.
>
> Bottom line, I reduced the coverage to $30K.  On a positive note, both my
> premium and my deductible dropped.  The deductible is a percent of the
> covered value.  I see this as a positive.  Most likely, any claim will be
> to repair damages much less than the covered value.  The lower deductible
> works in my favor.
>
> The real value of insurance is in the liability coverage.  That's where
> the potential for big dollar claims lies.
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Sun, Jun 26, 2022 at 4:55 PM Brian Davis via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have an insurance question for my fellow C'ers. My wife and I bought
>> Nina (1980 Landfall 38) 6 years ago for $25k. I've had Geico Marine ever
>> since for an insured value of $30k with a vanishing deductible that is now
>> zero. I have since restored her to about 95% and tracked all my receipts in
>> a spreadsheet totalling $45k. We are very happy with the result and the
>> only remaining 2 projects are a dodger/bimini and replacing the side plexi
>> windows.
>>
>> I inquired with Geico Marine about increasing the coverage from $30k to
>> $70k. I would first need to pay for a surveyor to inspect and write a
>> report (I don't know how much this is). Then my rate would go from $1,759
>> to $2,372 per year.
>>
>> I know this is a sliding scale based on the condition of each boat, and
>> I'm cool with the money I've put into her so far since we love her. Nearly
>> all of it is parts cost only because I am a skilled craftsman. Is $70k to
>> much insurance, and is $2,372 to much to pay for it?
>>
>> Would appreciate any thoughts and advice.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Brian
>>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Insurance... what is to much?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

See what other boats like yours are selling for on Yachtworld.com to give
you a better idea of what to insure her for. Also get a quote from
Progressive. I had insurance through BoatUS for decades, but a quote from
Progressive was less than half of what GEICO wanted. Don't skimp on
liability insurance. That will cover you if youy damage someone else's
property, and it's cheaper hthat hull insurance. Things like spars and
sails are depreciated, unless the boat is totaled. $70k does sound high to
me. Don't expect to get back what you put into her.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sun, Jun 26, 2022 at 2:55 PM Brian Davis via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have an insurance question for my fellow C'ers. My wife and I bought
> Nina (1980 Landfall 38) 6 years ago for $25k. I've had Geico Marine ever
> since for an insured value of $30k with a vanishing deductible that is now
> zero. I have since restored her to about 95% and tracked all my receipts in
> a spreadsheet totalling $45k. We are very happy with the result and the
> only remaining 2 projects are a dodger/bimini and replacing the side plexi
> windows.
>
> I inquired with Geico Marine about increasing the coverage from $30k to
> $70k. I would first need to pay for a surveyor to inspect and write a
> report (I don't know how much this is). Then my rate would go from $1,759
> to $2,372 per year.
>
> I know this is a sliding scale based on the condition of each boat, and
> I'm cool with the money I've put into her so far since we love her. Nearly
> all of it is parts cost only because I am a skilled craftsman. Is $70k to
> much insurance, and is $2,372 to much to pay for it?
>
> Would appreciate any thoughts and advice.
>
> Regards,
> Brian
>

Stus-List Re: Reefing lines

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I forgot to mention that the line coming down from the grommet goes through
a padeye on the bottom of the boom, slightly aft of the  position where the
grommet comes down to the boom when reefed,.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sat, Jun 18, 2022 at 10:59 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Run the reef line from the end of the boom sheave up through the grommet,
> down and under the boom, and tie a loop with a bowline around the line that
> is coming out of the boom end sheave.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 18, 2022 at 3:55 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> We raced today in a real blow and I was reminded to ask how others rig
>> their reefing lines.  I have a single reef point in my main and outhaul and
>> reefing line both exit the pulleys on the end of the boom.  When I want to
>> reef, I have generally run the reefing line up to the cringe, down and
>> around the boom and tied it to the boom. I have found it to be really
>> difficult to pull the new clew down and back to flatten the sail in both
>> directions.  It seems like it should work, but I am not sure if there is a
>> better way.   How do others rig for reefing?  Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>>

Stus-List Re: Reefing lines

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Run the reef line from the end of the boom sheave up through the grommet,
down and under the boom, and tie a loop with a bowline around the line that
is coming out of the boom end sheave.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sat, Jun 18, 2022 at 3:55 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We raced today in a real blow and I was reminded to ask how others rig
> their reefing lines.  I have a single reef point in my main and outhaul and
> reefing line both exit the pulleys on the end of the boom.  When I want to
> reef, I have generally run the reefing line up to the cringe, down and
> around the boom and tied it to the boom. I have found it to be really
> difficult to pull the new clew down and back to flatten the sail in both
> directions.  It seems like it should work, but I am not sure if there is a
> better way.   How do others rig for reefing?  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Unusual C for sale

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

There is a pumpout boat in Roche Harbor, San Juan Island, WA. It has a big
sign that says: "We take crap from anyone"

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Wed, May 11, 2022 at 7:33 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had no idea they made holding tank pumpout boats, but apparently they
> did or someone made a typo:
>
>
>
> https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/2002-c$c-pumpout-boat-7322319/
> 
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Finishing on 1990 30-2 companion way stairs

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I left a can of Watco Teak oil on the boat through the winter, and when I
tried to use it a few weeks ago, it had solidified. Home Depot was out, so
I bought Minwax teak oil. It worked just as well.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Fri, May 6, 2022 at 12:56 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Once a year is enough.  Sometimes I find some whitish mold starting in
> some out of the way area and that will be cleaned as described then and
> there so it doesn't grow bigger.  But each Spring, I try and wipe down the
> whole boat before setting out all the cushions.  I don't oil the whole
> boat,  I only add oil when I see an area is fading or looks dry, and a
> little goes a long way.  FWIW, The same can of Watco oil has lasted twenty
> years.
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
> On 05/06/2022 3:20 PM nausetbe...@optonline.net wrote:
>
>
> Chuck or anyone else,
>
>
> We oiled the teak in the forepeak for the fist time last September, after
> removing 20+ yo varnish [a tedious job to say the least.]  How often do you
> clean the oiled teak as you described?  Each spring as part of your spring
> commissioning?  And as needed during the season?
>
>
> Any other oiled teak cleaning magic potions?
>
>
> A teak oil newbee…
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
>
>
> *From:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, May 6, 2022 1:47 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Finishing on 1990 30-2 companion way stairs
>
>
> I use Watco Teak oil available at Home Depot and Lowes if that's what your
> referring to.   I usually wipe the wood down with a cleaner like diluted
> Pinesol in a spray bottle.  Then I clean the wood with Denatured Alcohol
> and let dry.  Then use a soft terry cloth rag to wipe on some teak oil.
> Let soak in and wipe off any excess.  It seals the wood and hides any dings
> and makes look very nice.
>
>
>
> Chuck S
>
> On 05/06/2022 1:07 PM Doug Robinson via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
>
> Surely someone remembers the dialog on this list that identified the
> product used by C  Google is your friend and I remember looking  at it
> on Loews and Home Depot.   No time to look myself but this project is on my
> spring todo list
>
> On 5/6/22 05:53, Allan Rheaume via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hi Chad,
>
>   I sanded mine down and used Cetol. It lasted a good 15 years
> or so until I refinished again last year with the same stuff.
>
>
>
> Allan Rheaume
>
> Drumroll 30-2 #90
>
>
>
> On Thursday, May 5, 2022, 08:52:41 p.m. EDT, Chad Osmond via CnC-List
>   wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> Anyone know what these were finished with? Looking to clean ours up and
> refinish the treads.
>
>
>
> It's matte and not a varnish. Maybe an oil?
>
>
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Finishing on 1990 30-2 companion way stairs

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I use Teak oil (there are several brands) on all my interior teak. Many
years ago I covered the steps with Treadmaster, which is now owned by
Lemar. It is available at Defender Industries in different sizes. You can
get enough to do your steps for about fifty dollars.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Fri, May 6, 2022 at 10:08 AM Doug Robinson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Surely someone remembers the dialog on this list that identified the
> product used by C  Google is your friend and I remember looking  at it
> on Loews and Home Depot.   No time to look myself but this project is on my
> spring todo list
> On 5/6/22 05:53, Allan Rheaume via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hi Chad,
>   I sanded mine down and used Cetol. It lasted a good 15 years
> or so until I refinished again last year with the same stuff.
>
> Allan Rheaume
> Drumroll 30-2 #90
>
> On Thursday, May 5, 2022, 08:52:41 p.m. EDT, Chad Osmond via CnC-List
>   wrote:
>
>
> Anyone know what these were finished with? Looking to clean ours up and
> refinish the treads.
>
> It's matte and not a varnish. Maybe an oil?
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: knot meter not working

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

It could be the transducer, or it could be the display. If you know someone
with B instruments, remove your display and connect it to the other
person's instruments. If it still doesn't work, it's the display. if it
does, it's the transducer. Usually when the transducer paddle wheel isn't
clean, the display shows 000, not ---. The transducer isn't repairable.
Check Amazon or eBay for a replacement.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Tue, Apr 26, 2022 at 4:34 AM Bob Mann via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My speed/depth/temp thru-hull is now showing dashes instead of values.
> It's the airmar DST800 that came with my B displays.  Can these be
> repaired or am I SOL?  Is there a number/email for B?  The local,
> official installer isn't worth crap so even though only ~25 months old
> probably not covered under warranty.
>
> Bob
> Mystic
>

Stus-List Propane Supplies

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Fisheries Supply in Seattle is having a sale on propane fiberglass  tanks
and accessories, now through April 15. Besides tanks, they have molded
propane lockers, regulators and gauges.

Alan Bergen

Stus-List Re: Propane Stove Solenoid

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

There should be two propane switches - one on the electrical panel (a
circuit breaker) and one near the stove. Flip on the circuit breaker and
have someone listen to the solenoid while you flip the switch near the
stove. If the solenoid is working, make sure you have enough gas in the
cylinder. Is there a pressure gauge? How much pressure is there? Beginning
of the season, I always top off the propane. Try that. Next turn on the gas
at the stove, and listen for gas flowing. Finally, try lighting the stove
using a match instead of using the starter swtitch at the stove. Remember,
if the stove hasn't been used in a long time, it might take a while for gas
to run from the cylinder to the stove.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Wed, Mar 30, 2022 at 12:28 PM Todd Williams via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Like many of us, I am excited to get Indigo Out We Go back into the waters
> of Lake Ontario in about a month!!! She is a 1980 C 34 that we bought
> last year. She is a great boat for us because she was stored inside in the
> off season but many of her accessories were not functioning, leading to a
> good financial deal for us.
>
> One of those accessories is the propane stove and oven. I can’t get the
> stove to light. It feels to me like there is gas in the 3 pound cylinder
> and the gas lines look intact. I have the solenoid switch turned on. Could
> it be that the solenoid has failed? Or is there some other likely trouble
> in the system?
>
> This isn’t a huge deal because I bought a transom mount propane grill
> (summer cooking is cooler outside) and I bring my white gas backpacking
> stove on our multi day adventures.
>
> Thanks in advance for the wisdom,
>
> TODD
> Sodus Bay, NY
>

Stus-List Re: Spring Checklist

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

The electronic flares that flash SOS are acceptable replacements. You don't
have to carry pyrotechnic flares if you have an electronic one. You do need
a daytime signal such as a flag, since the laser flares are difficult to
see during the day.

Alan


On Tue, Mar 29, 2022 at 6:25 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Korbey,
> I read that battery operated flares were excellent devices and getting
> very popular but USCG were not accepting them as basic requirement, because
> they require batteries that can die at any time.  I read you can carry the
> battery flares, but you still need to still carry the old style flares
> onboard to pass inspection.  Has that changed?
>
> Chuck S
>
>
> On 03/29/2022 3:34 AM Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> Re replacement flares.  You can now buy a USCG approved battery operated
> strobe light on Amazon that replaces flares.  It does not expire though
> routine battery replacement is required.
>
> Get Outlook for Android
> 
> --
> *From:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, March 27, 2022 12:37:58 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Stu ; CHARLES SCHEAFFER  >
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Spring Checklist
>
> Printed me a copy of Stu's Spring checklist already.  It's a big help.
> Thanks, Stu
>
> Bought new flares at Walmart.  Mine expired 2020.  New ones are only good
> for three years.
>
> Chuck S
>
>
> > On 03/27/2022 2:05 PM Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
> >
> >
> > Spring is here and it will soon be sailing season (well for some
> > people).  Don't forget to get your copy of the Spring Checklist - it is
> > a lot easier than trying to remember.
> >
> >
> https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fcncphotoalbum.com%2FSpring_Checklist.pdfdata=04%7C01%7C%7C0ab90b2576d740bf76c408da102963fb%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637840067196951639%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000sdata=lXsyXp9BXgiEim0vZswRKXmKoVk%2B5IISICbOnlKbqvI%3Dreserved=0
> 
> >
> > Stu
>
>

Stus-List Re: Winch replacement

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Check out Defender's sale, going on now. They're in Waterford, CT.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Mon, Mar 28, 2022 at 2:47 PM Dean McNeill via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Probably asked a lot before, but anyone know what winch would be a good
> replacement for Barient 25? I’m wanting to upgrade the primaries on my C
> 34 which has the original 2 speed (but not self-tailing) winches.
>
> I’m in Canada (nova Scotia) if that matters (in terms of where to order),
> but will be making driving journey into South Carolina & Georgia in about a
> week.
>
> Thanks, Dean
>
> 1980 C 34

Stus-List Re: Updated dock photo

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Yu can post it on the C Silboat Owners' Facebook page.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Tue, Mar 22, 2022 at 1:04 PM Doug via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi Stu,
> I wanted to send an updated dock photo of Significant other. I renamed her
> Rebecca Leah. Do I send you the picture or?? I know that the list has very
> limited space for pictures.
>
> Thanks
> Doug.
>
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> sv Rebecca Leah
> C & C Landfall 39
> Port Orchard Yacht Club
> Port Orchard, WA
>
>

Stus-List Re: Defender sale scheduled this month

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Remember to let us know when the sale begins.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sat, Mar 5, 2022 at 4:03 AM Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> What is defender? I’m not familiar
> Do you have a website
>
> On Fri, Mar 4, 2022 at 2:32 PM John McCrea via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> I live locally to Defender and I have had my online basket full for a few
>> months waiting on the sale. One new thing this year is that locals will
>> have a pre sale event with vendors that will offer the discounts before the
>> online sale begins. It is the week prior. Only 40 in the warehouse at a
>> time so I suspect long lines. I have not seen any change in pricing yet and
>> can hope that at least this year that they still have the good deals that
>> we are used to. I will report back to the list in regards to what I am
>> seeing for pricing.
>>
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>>
>>
>> John McCrea
>>
>> Talisman
>>
>> 1979 36-1
>>
>> Mystic, CT
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Friday, March 4, 2022 12:14 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list CNC boat owners 
>> *Cc:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Defender sale scheduled this month
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
>> 
>
> --
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca
> *
>
> Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!8raLR1ZpAZai-oEhXyhxsh8e6W1J46qnWkExdqczPAuxPbzv2KSE5BlxIqFGTwLyiFI$
Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: 35-3 Bimini question

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I had mine made by a local canvas maker. They used three bows. Another
panel zips between the bimini and the dodger. The panel has a plastic
window so that I can see the shape of the mainsail. It has a Sunbrella
cover that protects the window, and keeps the sun off when needed.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sat, Mar 5, 2022 at 9:16 AM David Swensen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> I am going to try my hand at some canvas work by adding a bimini to my
> 35-3. I am looking to use a Sailrite kit. Any other 35-3 owners out there
> who have done this? Did you use a 2-bow frame, or 3 bow? Mounting from rear
> pulpit or deck? I also want to add a flexible 100 W solar panel on top.
> Will the 2 bow support it? SailRite said it should, but I am looking for
> real world experience:) Any advice is appreciated.
>
> David Swensen
> Freya 35-5
> Beverly, MA
> Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!9KuvBVsHisLSSDSZz9z2iJFNMdTh25_qaXNy-j6R1J4C7bU40QZPW1ZjsQCagWbKX0A$
Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: Test One HTML

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Both messages came to me as plain text.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Wed, Feb 2, 2022 at 10:53 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> This one is sent in HTML mode
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
> Sent: Wednesday, February 2, 2022 1:27 PM
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
> Subject: Stus-List Test One
>
>
>
>
>
> Testing email
>
> 1
>
> 2
>
> 3
>
> Test One Two Three
>

Stus-List Re: Abnormal list things

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I'm with Comcast, and everything looks normal.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Wed, Feb 2, 2022 at 6:15 AM stu--- via CnC-List 
wrote:

>
> I have not been informed by the software people that serious changes have
> been made.  I don’t know why we are getting html characters instead of
> plain text.
>
> Google (gmail) has been acting strangely this past couple of months.  All
> emails sent from the Photo Album domain to a gmail account get rejected and
> they do not offer any support to correct the problem.
>
> I do some digging to see if I can find any current problems and/or fixes.
>
> Hope everyone is warm and safe during the winter season.
>
> Stu
>

Stus-List Marine Museum

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I received this invitation in the mail today:

You are cordially invited to attend our special Open House event on Monday
6 December from 5 to 7pm at 55 Ontario St., Kingston, Ontario.

Thanks to your generous support, we are delighted to announce that the
Marine Museum has moved home and our doors are now open. Our storefront
gallery is open in the front lobby and our new guided tours

of
the Kingston Dry Dock and Pumphouse

National
Historic Site

are
available for booking.

To celebrate this momentous occasion and express our thanks for your
support, we invite you to join us for an evening of celebration. Come by to
witness the developments, meet the team and celebrate the achievements you
have made possible. Beer, wine and appetizers will be served.

To ensure the safety of staff and visitors, the following COVID-19
protocols are in place;

   - Proof of full vaccination (or exemption) will be required
   - Contact tracing will be in place
   - Masks must be worn except when you're actively eating or drinking
   - Hand sanitizer will be made available


Please RSVP by Friday 3 December at 5pm.

We look forward to welcoming you back in person.

Chris

Chris West
Marine Museum Chair
RSVP

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 33-II vs 35-II

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I don't know how the Mk II compares with the Mk III, but when I raced with
a #3 (105%) genoa, I pointed five degrees higher than most boats in our
PHRF fleet. Any small loss in speed was more than made up for by the better
pointing angle. I was frequently first to the weather mark.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sat, Nov 13, 2021 at 2:39 PM Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dwight:
> While what you say is valid, the point earlier being was that the 33-II
> will out point the 35-IIand the 33-II which sails in St Margaret's Bay
> where you sail will out point your35-II (even sailed single
> handed).wouldn't you agree?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32- #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Main halyard shackle

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I don't have snap shackles on my main or on my furling genoa. Both sails'
halyards are attached with shackles that have pins that screw in. The pins
have never come loose. I have snap shackles on my spinnaker halyards, and
more than once they have come undone when raising the spinnaker in heavy
wind. Now I tape the snap shackle after closing it, to prevent it from
coming open. When I used non-furling racing genoas, I used snap shackles on
the halyards.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Tue, Nov 9, 2021 at 4:52 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My boat came with a main halyard shackle of a type I have never seen
> anywhere else.  It has a pivoting arm that swings up after inserting
> through the headboard and secured with a threaded pin.  It has worked fine
> for years and easy to remove and attach, which I do routinely when done
> sailing for the day.  Recently, I twice found it nearly completely
> unscrewed after a day of rough weather sailing, and that is concerning.  I
> don’t want to lose the halyard up the mast.  I am considering replacing it
> this winter with a standard snap shackle of the sort used on my genoa
> halyard.  I looked at a rigging company web site and they used snap
> shackles for genoa halyards and pin shackles for main halyards.  The logic
> of that escapes me.   On my boat, I take down the roller furling genoa only
> a few times a season while the main halyard is detached every time I go
> sailing.  I have no idea what the forces are on the main halyard but I
> would not think much greater than the genoa.  Any words of wisdom, or
> reason not to use a snap shackle for the main?  Thanks- Dave
>
> David Knecht
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!_-cpvwcHEBc1qBF3IaQT1jUOmakQpY0bBrv0qEPWazcWckqB-Fn8EwuSyUB7w_2tUWQ$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Perry on Ball

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

It's available on YouTube.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Tue, Nov 2, 2021 at 3:50 PM Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone have the link
>
> On Tue, Nov 2, 2021 at 6:37 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Not sure who all was present or have watched replays of the 2 hr Zoom
>> Interview Bob Perry did with Rob Ball , but it was worth the time. Kind of
>> reminded me of the David Rubenstein Peer to Peer interviews.
>>
>>
>>
>> I was great to get insight from two of the best boat designers of our
>> generation – and Perry will soon be doing some other designers.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>> Entrada, Erie, PA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca
> *
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!5HuCm6p1BhlMPQmZqOMb_HJYeH_62UmmUcEnqjSgWrkMXDyqHO00MvNUCTVSj-s7y9M$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: engine oil amount

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

One way to keep the extraction hose straight is to insert a wire coat
hanger in it. Make it long enough so that if it slips out of the hose, you
will be able to retrieve it.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Tue, Nov 2, 2021 at 10:17 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I also wrapped a piece of tape around the hose, unfortunately it came off
> and slid down the dipstick tube. I had to remove the oil pan to retrieve
> it. Some sort of marker might be safer.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
> On Sun, 31 Oct 2021 at 14:44, John Christopher via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I had the same issue and surprise. In my case I was pushing too much of
>> the extract hose down the dipstick opening and it would coil up in the pan
>> where the opening of the hose was not facing / touching the bottom of the
>> pan. It could have also run up the side of the pan internally (too small to
>> see :))
>>
>> I straightened my extract hose and pushed it down and got all of the oil
>> out (4.5 liters).
>>
>> My extract hose is a little stiff so all I did was tape a s screw driver
>> on the end for weight, held it up and used my heat gun. I cooled it off
>> with a wet rag.
>>
>> I also wrapped a piece of tape around the extract hose so next time I
>> know :).
>>
>>
>> /John
>> LF 38, #155, Ontario
>>
>> On Oct 31, 2021, at 5:31 PM, G Gao via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Universal Diesel 5424 here. According to the manual, this engine has
>> 5.6QT of engine oil. Last season and today, both times I use oil extractor
>> through the dipstick hole, could only get a little over 3 quarters out.
>>
>> Is this normal, or am I not doing it right?
>>
>> thx in advance.
>>
>> Bo
>>
>>
>> --
>> 1974 C 35 MK2
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>  Thanks - Stu
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!8vy5FBljsvmyydpR7VJ-efDT-HyvUwKP-d07JTs4OY3D2OHhT6ZXl7R1bJv-37aE2PA$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance…add international races with paid crew

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Does anyone on the list really sail with paid crew? When I could no longer
afford the cost of racing between Astoria, Oregon and Victoria, BC (Oregon
Offshore Race, now called the Pacific Northwest Offshore Race), I asked my
crew to chip in one hundred dollars each. They felt one hundred wasn't
enough, and they paid me two hundred each. They also provided all the food
and paid for their own transportation home after the race. I paid the race
entry fee and everything else (fuel, moorage, liferaft servicing, etc.)

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Fri, Oct 22, 2021 at 5:37 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am sure plenty of people “forget” to mention the paid crew, but if you
> want coverage you’ll need to talk to the people that insure all the big
> yachts with paid crew. There is a lot that goes into proper coverage of
> crew that would be unfamiliar to companies more used to insuring ski boats
> on a lake. It is essentially a specialized form of workmen’s comp.
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 21, 2021 11:35 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Pete Shelquist 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Insurance…add international races
> with paid crew
>
>
>
> I’m rejuvenating this conversation and highlighting a specific need for a
> friend of mine. They plan to race the boat internationally from Miami to
> Nassau.  They also plan to have one or two paid crewmembers on board .
>
>
>
> Evidently that last sentence is a bit of a stickler for the carriers. I’m
> curious if anyone on this list has come across this issue, or know someone
> that has, and found a solution.
>
>
>
> Thank you
>
>
>
> Get Outlook for iOS
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!7D5Fokm4rQ4WlFvaJajWV7EOktiV0903xelqBzh2XfYFKopm3966tEn7sKl5L5-0uwU$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Racer diesel filter assemblies

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Why are you replacing what you have? If it ain't broke...you know the rest.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sat, Oct 16, 2021 at 1:44 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am considering replacing my old Racor primary filter assembly (currently
> 30 µm filter) with one of the newer ones, but I am unsure what the
> difference is between them and hoping someone can clarify differences I
> might not recognize.  I was initially looking at the 500 series turbine
> units which start around $200.  But there are also 120 series spin on units
> that are less than $100 and seem like they should work:
> https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|311|2349059|2837510=133972#
> 
>
> Does anyone know if there is a reason not to use the less expensive
> models?  I plan to also add a remote vacuum gauge at the helm station if
> that matters.  Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!4lfGxG-_DobTJQHckjr3lVBloKJun7Vkg2a-L_Pi4mWDOaa4dMLnEChy1b7EEMbPYnI$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I went to the Progressive web site, and bought my insurance from them about
a month ago.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Tue, Oct 12, 2021 at 10:51 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Info for the list--at least those in NC and maybe the rest of the US.
>
> Tried to get a Progressive policy for Water Phantom last week and after
> some delay, the independent agent said that Progressive no longer insures
> boats (or at least will not write new policies) for boats over 27 feet.
>
> Back to square one for me--Water Phantom is 36 ft!
>
> Charlie Nelson
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Doug Robinson via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Doug Robinson 
> Sent: Thu, Sep 30, 2021 2:51 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance
>
> OOps,
> Checked in with Progressive this morning and the lad that insisted I was
> covered for storing in Canada was wrong.  Refund will take 12 to 14 days
> and required some work to unwind in my paypal account.   So I will move my
> search to Canadian underwriters, anyone have a favorite in the Niagara or
> GTA area.  Need to check to see if they will cover a 1976 C Mk1 before
> wasting our  time...
> FDR
> On 9/29/21 9:25 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I've had Progressive for the last twelve years.  Never had a claim.  No
> survey required during that time.  I got it mostly for liability and
> becasue marinas require it, but my policy also has a stated "cash value" in
> case of loss.  Each year the premium drops a little, (like $20) so I always
> renew.
>
> Chuck S
>
> On 09/27/2021 4:11 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>
>
> I too am considering moving to Progressive to save ~ $1200 per year.
>
> I have never had a claim except for towing and now I use Boat-US for
> that--$250/year which I may drop.
>
> Before I switch, has anyone had any experience with the claims
> procedure/reimbursement from Progressive--good, bad or indifferent?
>
> Saving money on insurance is a fools errand if you have to hire a lawyer
> to get them to pay a claim.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> 36 XL/kcb Water Phantom
> Greenville, NC
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
> 
> To: Stus-List  
> Cc: ALAN BERGEN  
> Sent: Mon, Sep 27, 2021 1:11 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance
>
> They didn't ask me for a survey.
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 27, 2021 at 9:48 AM Matthew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> When I switched to Progressive this year, I was told that the underwriting
> department would review the application and decide if a survey was needed.
> After reviewing the application, they decided a survey was not needed.
>
> Matt Wolford
> 1976 C 42 Custom
>
> *From:* Glenn Henderson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Saturday, September 25, 2021 10:57 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Glenn Henderson 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Insurance
>
> Did they require a full survey?
>
> Glenn and Lindsey Henderson
> C 41
> WeGo
>
> On Thu, Sep 23, 2021 at 3:48 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I recently received a renewal notice from GEICO (BoatUS). They said my
> insurance premium was reduced (from $1256 to $1226/year). Just for a check,
> I asked Progressive for a quote. Their price for the same amount of
> insurance was $487/year. I am now a Progressive customer.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> <https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!7MqgDHdT_VmgVntkqgpVX2PLoZU-m4LEgxz6ik17i-lnVDTWNuAjh_EHOC7KWmzP91g$>
> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!7MqgDHdT_VmgVntkqgpVX2PLoZU-m4LEgxz6ik17i-lnVDTWNuAjh_EHOC7KWmzP91g$
>  Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> <https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!712yMY9s9t7BzfVed3U_Fhwp3MKxId7QNSSG3txqDqiriDtUcxHgE7356N

Stus-List Re: Used spinnaker

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Fred:
Check with Mike Pitarresi. He bought Tango, and he's not racing anymore.
call me if you need his number.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Mon, Oct 11, 2021 at 1:37 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Yesterday my 3/4 oz. chute exploded in a big wind.
> Now I am looking for a used replacement. Lead time to get a new one more
> than 6 months.
> So,if there are any C 44 listers out there with a chute to sell, I am
> interested.
> Fred Hazzard
> C 44
> S/V Fury
> Portland Or
> Sent from my iPhone
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!8sx0NSlB2_AXyqy2E3o4vQ32g05D4ASidSUX0oG26bP6VSvBGKcwwLIV_4mvXLi65k8$
>  Thanks - Stu
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Water pumping issue

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Try this place: https://marinepumpdirect.com/

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Mon, Oct 4, 2021 at 12:55 PM Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Greetings listers,
> Well, after delaying during the very hot summer, I finally put on the
> newly sourced electric fuel pump.  I'd replaced the non-working pump with
> my spare in late May, but the spare didn't pump fuel, only made a buzzing
> noise.  The new one works and the engine started.
> But now another problem; water is not flowing from the exhaust.  I can't
> find my replacement impeller or the info from the last one.  According to
> the manual for the Universal M25XP there were three water pumps; 2
> Sherwoods and another.  I don't have the newer Sherwood based on the flat
> plate to access the impeller.  Info on the plate says, in no particular
> order:  Sherwood, WKS, Dextron and rot.  The manual calls it pump assembly
> 300986.  That's probably a Universal number.
> Two questions:  Where can I source an impeller?  It seems in the past I
> recall Holland marine or Torreson (sp?).  Dennis, did you ever mention a
> Depco?  Also, is the info I have sufficient?  If not, can someone add to it?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!6EkLniQCsQQkpa59szKqYsdO_C1P2_dNbVpYGng9ZmzCfw3MNkHRbbC-gLMXPspHaQ8$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

They didn't ask me for a survey.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Mon, Sep 27, 2021 at 9:48 AM Matthew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> When I switched to Progressive this year, I was told that the underwriting
> department would review the application and decide if a survey was needed.
> After reviewing the application, they decided a survey was not needed.
>
>
>
> Matt Wolford
>
> 1976 C 42 Custom
>
>
>
> *From:* Glenn Henderson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Saturday, September 25, 2021 10:57 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Glenn Henderson 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Insurance
>
>
>
> Did they require a full survey?
>
>
>
> Glenn and Lindsey Henderson
>
> C 41
>
> WeGo
>
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 23, 2021 at 3:48 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I recently received a renewal notice from GEICO (BoatUS). They said my
> insurance premium was reduced (from $1256 to $1226/year). Just for a check,
> I asked Progressive for a quote. Their price for the same amount of
> insurance was $487/year. I am now a Progressive customer.
>
>
>
> Alan Bergen
>
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>
> Rose City YC
>
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> <https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!7MqgDHdT_VmgVntkqgpVX2PLoZU-m4LEgxz6ik17i-lnVDTWNuAjh_EHOC7KWmzP91g$>
> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!7MqgDHdT_VmgVntkqgpVX2PLoZU-m4LEgxz6ik17i-lnVDTWNuAjh_EHOC7KWmzP91g$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Refurbishing CNG fittings

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Any propane supply company will have solenoids and regulators. Tell them
it's for a cng system, in case they have to adjust the regulator.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Mon, Sep 27, 2021 at 6:31 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have decided to replace or refurbish the regulators and solenoid on the
> CNG system on Persistence.  I had noted that even with the solenoid not
> turned on I would still get gas to the stove and have lately begun to
> suspect there may be a leak in the system.  So rather than simply looking
> for an obvious leak (soapy water etc…) that it may be time to replace the
> 30+ year old solenoid and the two regulator like parts where the tank
> attaches to the line.
>
>
>
> The link below shows the parts that I am hoping to replace.  Does anyone
> on this list know where o source them and what should be asked for instead
> of “regulator like parts”?
>
>
>
> https://www.hoytsailing.com/CNG_Regulators.jpg
> 
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!-hbraeaC7t-myqTiLyN89xHjaHMfgpz4T9rt1JLO_Bpz6pI882FmHFvRxJIzfpQXWPE$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Insurance

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Joe:
I have full coverage on my 1984 C with Progressive.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Fri, Sep 24, 2021 at 8:14 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I just logged in – I still have insurance. I had to up my liability
> insurance to $500,000 per my marina.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, September 24, 2021 11:03 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Insurance
>
>
>
> I have full coverage on a 1970 boat and a 1973 boat through Progressive.
>
>
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
>
>
> *From:* rockland bazemore via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, September 24, 2021 10:23 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* rockland bazemore 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Insurance
>
>
>
> Just looked into it and Progressive is only liability coverage for boats
> over 20 years old. If your boat gets struck by lighting or sinks you get
> $0. Guess I'll stick with Geico. I got struck by lightning last year and
> they fixed everything. Yes it is expensive.  Correct me if I'm wrong.
>
> Rocky
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!8mHdQzBoIWw67mbu1ua_Q3gn7eKs0vpwNHnBzbEcenDgkYMz2QOD1U2jjkvcMWZ9UG8$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Insurance

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I recently received a renewal notice from GEICO (BoatUS). They said my
insurance premium was reduced (from $1256 to $1226/year). Just for a check,
I asked Progressive for a quote. Their price for the same amount of
insurance was $487/year. I am now a Progressive customer.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: cng cylinders

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Can you buy a new SCUBA tank and replace the threaded piece that connects
to the stove hose?
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Thu, Sep 23, 2021 at 12:30 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks Alan
>
>
>
> We have been able to have our tanks refilled but are looking to replace
> some with new.  Is very difficult to fin a source
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
> *From:* ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* September 23, 2021 4:25 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* ALAN BERGEN 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: cng cylinders
>
>
>
> I seem to recall that CNG cylinders are SCUBA cylinders with a reverse
> thread so that they can't be mistaken for cylinders with O2 in them. When a
> tank is empty, it is exchanged for a full tank. Another choice is to have
> the local gas company fill your tank for you. You might check with a
> propane distributor, or with your local gas company.
>
>
>
> Alan Bergen
>
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>
> Rose City YC
>
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 23, 2021 at 12:15 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> There are several people at our marina that have CNG for cooking.  We are
> wondering if anyone on list has a source for new CNG cylinders?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
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> <https://urldefense.com/v3/__https:/www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!-1bPKJH7SrsutyCRG0Gcym3Gu8yP1Fq3JF2XJ_Om705Kj_7M0nJwKywf8jWekl9e3dU$>
>  Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
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> PayPal to send contribution --
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>  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: cng cylinders

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I seem to recall that CNG cylinders are SCUBA cylinders with a reverse
thread so that they can't be mistaken for cylinders with O2 in them. When a
tank is empty, it is exchanged for a full tank. Another choice is to have
the local gas company fill your tank for you. You might check with a
propane distributor, or with your local gas company.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Thu, Sep 23, 2021 at 12:15 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> There are several people at our marina that have CNG for cooking.  We are
> wondering if anyone on list has a source for new CNG cylinders?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!-1bPKJH7SrsutyCRG0Gcym3Gu8yP1Fq3JF2XJ_Om705Kj_7M0nJwKywf8jWekl9e3dU$
>  Thanks - Stu
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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: any Bruce anchor users?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I use a Lewmar that's the same as a Bruce, but much cheaper.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Mon, Aug 23, 2021 at 7:44 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Someone on my street is selling a 33 pound real Bruce for $150.  I think
> it will be an improvement over my Danforth. Any Bruce fans?
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
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>  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: halyard/sheet bags

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Whenever I have dropped my halyards down the companionway, they always
manage to get caught between the companionway stairs and the quarter berth.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Mon, Aug 16, 2021 at 7:26 PM Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Funny story about dropping halyard tails down the companion way hatch:
> We did that on a custom 2 toner back in the early 80’s until a tail got
> caught in the prop shaft. The 2 toner was stripped out enough down below
> that there was a small gap behind the engine box.
>
> After that I always checked before dropping the tails.
>
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Seattle/Port Townsend’s yard
>
> On Aug 16, 2021, at 6:08 AM, Matthew via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Chuck:
>
>
>
> My 42 has winches around the mast for halyards.  When in
> use, we coil line around the winches.  When not in use, there’s not much to
> store.
>
>
>
> My main sheet, Cunningham, main outhaul, chute downhaul
> (foreguy), and traveler control lines all lead to the front of the
> cockpit.  Like others, we just let them hang down the companionway when in
> use.  When not in use, we coil lines around winches.  An issue someone
> pointed out to me is that one of our fire extinguishers is mounted in a
> location that a hanging line could grab it.  Haven’t settled on a solution
> for that yet.
>
>
>
> *From:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Saturday, August 14, 2021 5:52 PM
> *To:* CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
> *Cc:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
> *Subject:* Stus-List halyard/sheet bags
>
>
>
> Hey guys,
>
>
>
> What is everybody using for halyard bags for the lines next to the
> companionway and also sheet bags for the genoa sheets.  Anybody have
> suggestions?  Pictures?
>
>
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>  Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
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>  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: halyard/sheet bags

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I don't coil my halyards when I put them in the bag. I drop them in the
bag, starting with the bitter end. When I drop the sails, the halyards come
out of the bag without any tangles.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sat, Aug 14, 2021 at 6:16 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Same - when sailing (often  singlehanded) my  main halyard is hung over
> its starboard side cabin-top winch in a long, orderly coil.When I need
> it,  I carefully drop that coil into the cabin sole, so that it can run out
> freely, turning around the winch, and through the clutch.
>
> The port-side roller-furled genoa halyard is luggage-tagged around the
> dodger frame to keep it ready but out of the way.  I would re coil it and
> treat it similarly to the main in in the event I had to douse underway.
> Fortunately, since I sorted my furler jams this hasn’t often been necessary.
>
> Agreed with others,I think halyard bags would be a nuisance on this boat.
> Plus, I hang my binoculars where a bag might otherwise hang!
>
> Genoa sheets I coil and hang on their winches, drop on the cockpit sole to
> tack.
>
> Starboard-side Furler line is luggage-tagged on the pushpit, re coiled and
> carefully dropped on the cockpit sole when required. This is cleated on a
> rail-mount cleat on the pushpit located after a ratcheting block by the
> forward pushpit base.  In this way I can either haul on The furler line
> directly or,  if it’s really blowing, horse-and-tail with the ratchet block
> taking the load.   This seems to be necessary more often of late - stronger
> winds or advancing years.
>
> Dave 33-2 windstar.
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 14, 2021, at 7:31 PM, Randal Stafford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Chuck,
>
> I run the tails of my halyards and vang down the companionway, and coil
> each one on the cabin sole in such a way that it can run out freely when
> needed.  The tail of my working genoa sheet is usually coiled on the
> cockpit bench.  The sheet length is such that the lazy sheet only has a
> couple feet of tail, usually wrapped around the winch ready for the next
> tack or gybe.  My mainsheet is coiled on the cockpit sole, and my traveler
> lines are coiled on the bench between the traveler and transom.  My
> spinnaker sheets when not in use are coiled on the side deck between
> cockpit coaming and stern pulpit.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> On Aug 14, 2021, at 3:51 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey guys,
>
> What is everybody using for halyard bags for the lines next to the
> companionway and also sheet bags for the genoa sheets.  Anybody have
> suggestions?  Pictures?
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>  Thanks - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>  Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!9GkczqzEIuZhUZML4PXtQuBGjtrcN3tdMW3y9Lcj5zuePnKbuUiwcFRrLSbbf1eGYf8$
>  Thanks - Stu
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: halyard/sheet bags

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I have Sunbrella bags hanging below the instruments on either side of the
companionway. They've worked great for twenty years. See an example here:
https://www.sailrite.com/search?keywords=sheet%20bags

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sat, Aug 14, 2021 at 2:52 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey guys,
>
> What is everybody using for halyard bags for the lines next to the
> companionway and also sheet bags for the genoa sheets.  Anybody have
> suggestions?  Pictures?
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!8fKiMO9VZiId-FUkHUF5azuMCRwaz0-RQHDvfvTpSxFHh2_f-IwfCzXuLzTiehFgZbc$
>  Thanks - Stu
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Intermittent stalling

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

My previous boat hadan A4 engine. There was a filter at the end of the
pickup tube that was clogged, and it caused the engine to stall because the
pump was starved for fuel. You may not have a filter there, but you might
have sludge in the bottom of your tank causing the pickup tube to clog. I
go many years without changing my fuel filters, and when I do, they are
pretty clean. If yours are dirty when you change them, you might want to
polish your fuel.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Tue, Aug 3, 2021 at 8:35 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We are off on a two week cruise.  Second day running the engine starts to
> falter, then stall. I check the Racor, no water.  I did replace the fuel
> pump last year after we ran out of fuel w the fuel tank half full.  But it
> seemed to be fine.
>
> She started and we stopped in a Edmonds to top off the tank, but it only
> took 7 g.
>
> She then ran pretty solid for the next 2 hours with only a few issues.
>
> I have  not changed the fuel filters for about 150 hours over two years.
>
> I am thinking that either the filters need replacing or the fuel pump just
> does not lift the fuel enough.
>
> Any help is appreciated.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WAec
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
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>  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: Checking the list

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

It's been a long time coming, Martin. Nice to hear it's coming to a close.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sun, Aug 1, 2021 at 1:59 PM Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When I mentioned being jealous of how much time my father-in-law was
> spending aboard his classic wood power boat my wife firmly reminded me I am
> spending many hours a week onboard its just in the yard with sand paper in
> hand.
>
> It is rumored the professional painting crew will begin to prep the
> topsides next week. Meanwhile I will continue to hand sand and primer coat
> the deck to prepare for applying “shiny” paint and Kiwi Grip non-skid. I
> plan to put Calypso back in the water around the first of October.
>
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Seattle/Port Townsend’s yard
>
> On Aug 1, 2021, at 7:54 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Ho pe everyone is well and sailing.   The list has been quiet for several
> days.
>
> Chuck S
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>  Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!4_bGWkVibF4rKFyaYvcTT2el7DvSV8L_RJefiTWIsCPJuuZAoZwF65ZwJZz2QkSE2II$
>  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: Broken Bolt in Epoxy

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

You can probably drive the bolt back through the transom using a hammer or
sledge hammer, and then a punch and a hammer. A hard strike should break it
free from the epoxy. If it's truly a carriage bolt, you don't want to try
to turn it. A carriage bolt has a round head and a square neck.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 2:42 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Can you just grind it away and leave  it.
>
> On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 3:41 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have a Broken ¼ - 20 broken carriage bolt with around 2 threads showing
>> out my transom.
>>
>> 1 ½” is embedded in epoxy. An easy-out seems unlikely.  I did four, three
>> of them unscrewed successfully, but apparently I didn’t coat this one
>> thoroughly enough with the Vaseline.
>>
>>
>>
>> I am thinking that if I can heat the bolt up to around 300 degrees or so,
>> it will break the bond with the epoxy. A soldering iron seems **maybe**
>> possible, but that is only one side. I was wondering if I could heat it up,
>> like plumbers do with welders to melt frozen water lines, it might be an
>> option.
>>
>> But I don’t understand enough about electrical resistance to know how to
>> go about it. Using a battery for juice seems risky, having seen what
>> happens when I have shorted them out with a wrench –
>>
>> I do have a 30 amp adjustable Powerwerks power supply, which seems a
>> little safer.
>>
>> What I don’t understand, is if I can put a positive on one end of the
>> bolt, and negative on the other, will it heat the bolt, or will it just
>> melt the insulation off the wires? Or ruin the power supply? Or is it a
>> factor of the gauge of the wires?
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>> Entrada, Erie, PA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
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>  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: Old Harken Roller II

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

The fitting you are referring to is called a retainer. It is required on
many boats with furler, if the halyard exits the mast too high.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Mon, Jul 12, 2021 at 6:15 PM Todd Williams via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am a new C owner and initially had trouble with my Harken Furler.
> The wire halyard wraps around at the masthead when furling. It was clear
> from the fraying wire and twisted coil that this had been a problem. I
> switched over to a braided line jib halyard and it works fine now. I also
> watched a youtube video (pretty old footage) that specified a 7 degree
> angle between the furling foil and the halyard up at the masthead and that
> Harken makes a fitting to mount on the mast a bit down from the top in
> order to increase that angle. Now that it works, I will clean and lubricate
> it to make it even better!
>
> Todd R. Williams
> C 34
> Sodus Bay, NY
>
> On Mon, Jul 12, 2021 at 3:46 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I rigorously flush my Harken furler's drum and swivel assemblies with
>> dock water every spring and sometimes in the fall.  Use a hard jet spray
>> and be sure to spray each assembly from various angles.  Particularly spray
>> the drum assembly from below and in the drum itself.  You'll need to pull
>> all the furling line out to do that.   Tie a knot in the line at the first
>> stanchion block and make a note of which way it winds.
>>
>> Harken roller furlers really don't require any additional lubrication,
>> just the periodic rigorous flushing with water.  However, I do spray mine
>> with McLube for good measure.
>>
>> --
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 12, 2021 at 2:15 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> What did you use for lube? (for the FURLER!!)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Joe Della Barba
>>>
>>> Coquina C 35 MK I
>>>
>>> Kent Island MD USA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!6YlWYkO7NwsV_P0Y7oYP05Zn-nzFbyNOzAiFUroL8dhRQzqE2xjrTcJUPDzMq5KmNRs$
>  Thanks - Stu
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Where to start with a gradually stiffening rudder? [C 34]

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

If you look at the rudder tube (that surrounds the rudder post), there is a
grease cup. Unscrew it, and fill it with grease. then screw it back on and
give it a couple of turns as someone turns the wheel from one extreme to
the other. In most cases, that's all it takes to make the helm smooth again.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Mon, Jun 28, 2021 at 3:59 PM Andrew Means via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey all -
>
> When we bought our 1978 C 34 it had a nice smooth rudder action via our
> wheel helm. Over the past two years it's gradually stiffened and I think we
> need some amount of lubrication, but I'm not really sure where to start to
> diagnose the issue and come up with a plan to fix it. Anybody familiar with
> the steering setup on the 34?
>
> Andrew
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
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>  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: Wheel Drive Autopilot

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

You get access to the belt by separating the two halves of the assembly
that is attached to the wheel.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Fri, Jun 25, 2021 at 6:08 PM Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks so much Joe.  Didn't know there was a belt on the 4000.  Does it go
> around the whole wheel assembly?  It's hidden nicely.
>
> I will probably do as you say and buy a new drive unit and see if that
> works.
>
>
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
>
> On Thu, Jun 24, 2021 at 3:58 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
>  wrote:
>
> I have an old AH-4000. If it starts doing what you describe the belt may
> be slipping or the pin that holds the drive gear is going. I have rebuilt
> my drive many times and my current unit is a combination of 3 or 4 old ones
> I have scavenged over the years.
>
> You can try and fix it or get a new drive for around $600 or so. It will
> work fine with the AH-4000 computer. The CPT is a much stronger unit, but
> keep in mind in both cases the weight of the boat is being used as a proxy
> for how hard the boat is to steer. These things are really only loosely
> related at best. An AH-4000 has plenty more power than needed to steer a
> freighter, it isn’t physically hard to steer a big ship. The issue would be
> the steering algorithms would be way off.
>
> If your boat is hard for YOU to steer, Otto will have a hard time too.
> After fixing or replacing your drive I would look to getting the boat to
> balance.
>
> All that said, the AH-4000 is hopeless in a big following sea.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 24, 2021 2:18 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Peter Cowenhoven 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Wheel Drive Autopilot
>
>
>
> Does anyone have any experience with the CPT belt driven vs the old
> Autohelm 4000?  Does the CPT have more turning force?
>
>
>
> I've got the old 4000 and many times it doesn't turn the wheel and just
> clicks.  Certainly when there's a lot weather helm there's no chance.
>
>
>
> I'm also wondering if a new 4000 drive unit would be able to hold the
> force of the wheel better.
>
>
>
> I see the 4000 or the new EV 1000 is rated st 16,500 and I'm at about
> 13,500 while the CPT is rated to 40,000.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance for any intel or thoughts on this.
>
>
>
> Best,
>
>
>
> Peter
>
>
>
> 84 Landfall 35
>
> Westbrook, CT
>
>
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!_OLkIQkgR48xPT56XE72c9UxavRne3qKxYol6B4_Dk25_4iotzzfI31WdJTDtcTG1-s$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Seawater pump

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I have a foot pump for sea water and a foot pump for fresh water. I can
also switch between fresh and sea water for my pressure water.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Fri, Jun 25, 2021 at 8:08 AM Korbey Hunt via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My foot pump is fresh water.
>
> Get Outlook for Android
> 
>
> --
> *From:* David Knecht via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, June 25, 2021 6:11:22 AM
> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list 
> *Cc:* David Knecht 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Seawater pump
>
> Thanks for the quick answer.  It makes some sense, but I am pretty sure
> the foot pump in the galley is sea water so this seems redundant, but I
> guess sometimes you want more water than the foot pump would easily
> deliver.  Dave
> PS- Our foot pump has a piece of rubber pipe insulation over it after
> numerous scraped ankles.  I am guessing others have done the same.
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Jun 25, 2021, at 9:40 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> We wash dishes with sea water and rinse with fresh water
>
> Joel
>
> On Fri, Jun 25, 2021 at 9:31 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My boat came with a pump with coiled hose and spray nozzle in the area
> near the sink through-hull that is plumbed to a through-hull to seawater.
> I have never used it and am not sure what one would do with sea water
> pumped into the cabin in this location.  Any hints?  Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> Joel
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>  Thanks - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!7LBl0YE0frwmHrHrQc-wESKFc812gJZ6vZBPnoY1LVrhRvLlzHYB7Lfd04V8QJ33c3U$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance for Older Boats

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

One thing you can do is just get liability insurance. Your boat won't be
covered, but you'll be insured if you damage another person's property.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Tue, Jun 22, 2021 at 8:30 AM Korbey Hunt via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am having the same problem finding replacement hull insurance for my
> 1982 Ocean Alexander 43 located in Mexico.  It was also previously insured
> by Geico.
>
> Get Outlook for Android
> 
>
> --
> *From:* Matthew via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 22, 2021 6:18:38 AM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* Matthew 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Insurance for Older Boats
>
>
> Until recently, I had Travelers.  No major issues getting the policy in
> place a few years ago, although I needed to update the original purchase
> survey as I recall.  At the time, I transferred to Travelers from Boat US
> (Geico) due to the 80% depreciation issue.  However, Travelers raised the
> premium to the point where it nearly doubled over a few years.  When I
> asked why the price rose so dramatically, I was told (twice) that “more
> people are using boats.”  This didn’t make sense to me, so this spring I
> switched from Travelers to Progressive, which did not require a survey.
> I’m back to under $1 K for the annual premium.
>
>
>
> Matt Wolford
>
> 1976 C 42 Custom
>
>
>
> *From:* David Morris via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 22, 2021 9:04 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* djmor...@djma-ltd.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Insurance for Older Boats
>
>
>
> In the course of jumping through hoops imposed by our insurance carrier
> for our 1975 C 30 MK1, I had an email from a senior VP with Gallagher
> Skipper’s Plan that says, in part: “In the today’s market it is extremely
> difficult to find insurers willing to write sailboats over 40 years old.
> These boats have a high incidence of fires, rigging failures, pulled
> chainplates, and rudder failures and are considered high risk. Five
> insurance companies have stopped offering quotes for sailboats over 30 and
> the few that will offer it are very picky.” This, of course, is highly
> concerning. Any recommendation for a carrier that is more favourably
> inclined to cover an older boat would be most appreciated.
>
>
>
> David Morris
>
>
> --
>
> [image: Avast logo]
> 
>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com
> 
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!4iu0aS43emXubgosT11g8VHh70TuEH_sLiS-S3g32zXM20XcQ9cwRRTs_zc9wu4qvjY$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Gooseneck fitting source?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Bruce:
Send me your email address, and I'll send you a picture. Mine is from a
Selden mast/boom.

Alan Bergen
trya...@alumni.usc.edu

35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Mon, Jun 14, 2021 at 3:07 PM Alan Liles via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ken is correct. I’ve replaced mine with the Offshore Spars version. $145
> and it fits like a glove.
>
> Cheers, Al
> SV Elendil
> C 37/40+
> Vancouver BC
>
>
> On Jun 14, 2021, at 2:37 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Bruce,
>
> If you like, I can sell you mine. I’ll make you a great deal.
>
> Boat included in purchase price.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 14, 2021, at 2:19 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Looks like an 'Offshore Spars' gooseneck so try this one:
> https://store.offshorespars.com/products/offshore-spars-1-2in-gooseneck-swivel?_pos=1&_sid=d778c22d9&_ss=r
> 
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Mon, 14 Jun 2021 at 17:18, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> Our gooseneck fitting is starting to wear, and the holes in it where the
>> bolt fits down the center vertically are starting to wear egg-shaped.  You
>> can see a photo here:
>>
>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/re5kalfn9slfidr/Gooseneck%20Fitting.jpg?dl=0
>> 
>>
>> Does anyone know where to get a new fitting?
>>
>> In the alternative, could I take it to a local weder and have it filled
>> and re-drilled, or would you think that would be unwise for some reason?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for your insights,
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
>> Madeira Beach, FL
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>  Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>  Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!_ZONPA3jcRAtmoo8LyhLC48F2yxhSMmKdLQOaNPp47PFnulXu48HqHAo0MFG6XRtxVI$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Gooseneck fitting source?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Is it the black piece in the picture that you want to replace? I have
pieces that I removed from my old mast that might work. I can send you a
picture with dimensions.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Mon, Jun 14, 2021 at 1:18 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Our gooseneck fitting is starting to wear, and the holes in it where the
> bolt fits down the center vertically are starting to wear egg-shaped.  You
> can see a photo here:
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/re5kalfn9slfidr/Gooseneck%20Fitting.jpg?dl=0
> 
>
> Does anyone know where to get a new fitting?
>
> In the alternative, could I take it to a local weder and have it filled
> and re-drilled, or would you think that would be unwise for some reason?
>
> Thanks in advance for your insights,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
> Madeira Beach, FL
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!-e5Vf9VsTGDycQPFDrtbsQHeDVAXADVkMcrG7JDgLPl1C0eZxs93jYNX_h2KNWnITrc$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Main Halyard Dilemma

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Why do you pull the halyard into the mast? I've been sailing for more than
fifty years, and I have never done that on any of my boats. It's not
necessary.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Fri, Jun 11, 2021 at 1:34 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That happened to me once. It turned out the wind instrument cable was
> getting pulled into the sheave. Pull the halyard up or down to the point
> where it's loose. Then try pulling the wind instrument cable down, from
> where it comes out of the mast, until it is snug. Don't tug too hard. Then
> try the halyard again. If that doesn't work, you might have to go up the
> mast and look at it closely. If it does work, you still might have to go up
> the mast, and inspect the wind instrument cable. Mine got stripped, and I
> ended up soldering the individual wires and heat shrinking insulation
> around them. Not an easy job while swinging from the top of the mast.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jun 11, 2021 at 1:17 PM Raymond Macklin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello:
>>
>> I have a 1985 CNC 33-2.   I have been using the same main halyard for the
>> last three years.  Every winter I connect a line to it and pull it up and
>> store the main halyard in the mast over the winter.  I went to bring it
>> down it does not want to come down.  I am able to pull it down 6" and pull
>> it back up 6".  so it does move.  all the other halyards i have loosened to
>> make sure it was not hanging up on them.   I am still unable to pull the
>> main halyard down.  Has anyone ever run into this and does anyone have a
>> suggestion or solution in mind?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ray Macklin
>> LakeHouse, Milwaukee
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --
>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!4HDEafuHHkNe4FFGYZBsoL87lOQtEz4AVmJ0PdYuJ31i5MWkkNh1NOGnUyoVdCm2Rhk$
>>  Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!5yk53iZhw8fmrROpt1AThQgAlEWYkUZmf8awSmsXY1_01rR0_mTBaaxxgdHzmGy05NE$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Main Halyard Dilemma

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

That happened to me once. It turned out the wind instrument cable was
getting pulled into the sheave. Pull the halyard up or down to the point
where it's loose. Then try pulling the wind instrument cable down, from
where it comes out of the mast, until it is snug. Don't tug too hard. Then
try the halyard again. If that doesn't work, you might have to go up the
mast and look at it closely. If it does work, you still might have to go up
the mast, and inspect the wind instrument cable. Mine got stripped, and I
ended up soldering the individual wires and heat shrinking insulation
around them. Not an easy job while swinging from the top of the mast.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Fri, Jun 11, 2021 at 1:17 PM Raymond Macklin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello:
>
> I have a 1985 CNC 33-2.   I have been using the same main halyard for the
> last three years.  Every winter I connect a line to it and pull it up and
> store the main halyard in the mast over the winter.  I went to bring it
> down it does not want to come down.  I am able to pull it down 6" and pull
> it back up 6".  so it does move.  all the other halyards i have loosened to
> make sure it was not hanging up on them.   I am still unable to pull the
> main halyard down.  Has anyone ever run into this and does anyone have a
> suggestion or solution in mind?
>
> Thanks,
> Ray Macklin
> LakeHouse, Milwaukee
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!4HDEafuHHkNe4FFGYZBsoL87lOQtEz4AVmJ0PdYuJ31i5MWkkNh1NOGnUyoVdCm2Rhk$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: teak ladder treads

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I have something similar on my boats. The teak treads are held in place
with two machine screws on each tread.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sat, Jun 5, 2021 at 7:11 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Nate - I had some on mine made by the prior owner and the steps had a
> concave groove on the underside that matched the diameter of the stainless
> rung,  and notches in each end to
> Accommodate the vertical part of the ladder.  They were secured in place
> very well with what I believe was silicone in the groove on the underside.
> Invisible fastening basically and quite elegant.  stayed well stuck for
> decades.
>
> Dave  33-2
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 5, 2021, at 8:20 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Want to add steps to existing stern boarding ladder. Admiral wants teak
> steps.
> Looks like they are available in Europe, but here all I can find are teak
> *deck* steps, not ladder rung steps. Anyone know of a source, or failing
> that, a good design I can make myself, attaching by ss hose clamps?
>
> Nate
>
> 1980 C 30-1
> St, Croix River Hudson WI
>
> 1994 Tartan 31
> Cornucopia, WI
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>  Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!_v4E0ctGhhEF34p3lvt1c7f3gOAulEkzFEIgiHph4doB01x55JjKN1HI_0aTHopRi4g$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: CnC44 Mast Height for Bridge Clearance

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Don't rely on calculations. I ran a tape up the mast using the main
halyard, added the measured distance from the base of the mast to the
waterline, and added five feet to allow for the distance from the top of
the halyard to the top of the antenna in order to give me an accurate
measurement.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Tue, May 4, 2021 at 10:34 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> More than one C has a short and tall rig version, so I would
> double-check that.
>
> I would go through at low tide too, that will gain you a few feet.
>
>
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Chris Riedinger via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 4, 2021 12:43 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Chris Riedinger 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: CnC44 Mast Height for Bridge Clearance
>
>
>
> Sounds close. I would back down to it
>
>
>
> On Tue, May 4, 2021, 7:55 AM Dan via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> We are in Jacksonville Fl. And planning to go under the Buckman Bridge
> which has a clearance at mean high water of 65'. I read that there is a 5'
> tide change here in Jacksonville. I calculated our clearance from the
> waterline to 63'8" (not including antennae) can another C owner please
> confirm this with me that my calculations are accurate before we attempt
> this bridge? (At low tide)
>
>
>
> C mast specs:
>
> Mast 65’5” total, 58’5” deck to masthead, 7’ below decks
> 63' 8" our waterline to top of mast (minus antennae)
>
>
>
> Thanks so much,
>
>
>
> Dan Cormier
>
> Breakaweigh
>
> C
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> CANADA
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!5eq0ohsJPsTYyHpKh7D3R102CJd2lbfqdCiu0D82_YiGAGOVnA5moioTaJSDmjBygf4$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Removing lettering

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

3M makes a fabric wheel (don't know what it's called) that can be used
after softening the lettering with a heat gun or hair dryer. Then use
General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner (also from 3M) that comes in a spray can.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 1:31 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Try Vinyl-Off by Crystal Tek.
>
>
>
> www.crystaltek.us.com
> 
>
>
>
> I would like to tell you it works well, but that would be a lie, because I
> essentially have never made use of it.
>
> I tried it in vain on  my letters, until I called the PO and he told me
> they were painted on.  Duoh!
>
>
>
> But I suspect it does work well, by the reviews.
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Neil Andersen via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 21, 2021 3:49 PM
> *To:* Stus-List
> *Cc:* Neil Andersen
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Removing lettering
>
>
>
> What solvent should I use to remove the residual adhesive??
>
>
>
> Neil
>
> 1982 C 32, FoxFire
>
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* Dean McNeill via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 21, 2021 3:22 PM
> *To:* Stus-List
> *Cc:* Dean McNeill
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Removing lettering
>
>
>
> Adhesive lettering is WAY easier than old painted lettering!
>
> A heat gun and a sharp scraper are your friends. The heat gun will loosen
> the adhesive on the vinyl and then you can get a scraper or razor edged
> scraper in underneath to peel it off.
>
> Dean
> C 34
> Halifax, NS
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!_f83gzi84Seq_W2iHdTOdFLBLII5XQUYXS5Gqa83JRnCLEarB6yYL7O2ZaVqPaE2DRM$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Navtec Hydraulic backstay adjuster, soon to be free

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I' been said many times on this list, and I'll say it again: Lew Townsend
in Seattle is the man to do all  your hydraulic work. (206) 498-7282.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 7:01 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Not for nothing, I have a shitshow story about Navtech and a Florida firm
> that I'm waiting for the dust to settle before I share the details.  Let's
> just say between incompetence and unwillingness to stand behind their work,
> I will be giving zero stars with 8 x 12  color photographs with circles and
> arrows.  Reference to Woody Guthrie and and Alice's Restaurant...
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!5hsNZz-2bsP-uf-wipHi3Hjkotv2cYQMneeXBIt02WPrXj4sIb3YrIgHzR9uKLnpvYs$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Internet on the boat

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

When I'm anchored in a harbor, I use Personal Hotspot to get internet, when
I can't get it without my phone attached to my laptop.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Wed, Apr 14, 2021 at 4:57 PM Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good afternoon gentlemen
> Does anyone have internet on the boat  powerful to get zoom and weather
> Does it work off shore
> Joel
> --
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca
> *
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!6i4vwL3SLjCUisqnZ_PZ2LDFxnHBx56ZqTmgj5IB4z1x4C7gdWKMiQgk0MQhmarEb4w$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: White vinegar

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

White vinegar is a solvent for uncured epoxy.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Thu, Apr 1, 2021 at 8:01 AM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> As senior citizen I suffer from the dreaded malady
> CRS.
> Yesterday while visiting Fury I found a gallon of white vinegar.
> Hopefully, one of you can remind me what is for.
> Thanks
> Fred Hazzard
> SV Fury
> C 44
> Portland, Or
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!6ltNrB5TSd5T_-nt0NV6LlmYle2a0c2foMy8nhmylsMC8TFlSk9mI0KmsIlMD0oEalY$
>  Thanks - Stu
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu