Stus-List Anybody need quality Heavy Weather Gear?

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

I've got some Musto MPX Gore-Tex heavy weather jacket and trousers for sale
on Seattle Craigslist if anybody's interested. The equivalent pair retails
for $1600+

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/clo/d/wauna-musto-mpx-gore-tex-foul-weather/7702027696.html

Email me at andrewemba...@gmail.com if you're interested!

Andrew
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Fractional Ownership Agreements: what do you wish was included on yours?

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

After co-owning our C 34 MK1 with friends for the past 6 years sans
agreement, we're currently taking some ownership shuffling as an
opportunity to bring everything above board and create an LLC and a proper
ownership agreement. My lawyer has created documents like this before, but
I'm wondering if any of you have tips or cautionary tales as to what we
should make sure to add to (or leave out from) ours? What do you wish was
included in yours? How did you manage scheduling, maintenance, owners
wanting out, etc.?

Andrew
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Baby stay vs new headsail

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

We just removed our babystay and never looked back. We've never missed it,
even when bashing to windward in swells. I will say though the genoa sheets
do get caught more often on random stuff on the foredeck (hatches, vents,
etc.) that otherwise they would be kept clear of.

On Wed, Sep 1, 2021 at 9:29 PM Peter McMinn via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We’ve been sailing this summer with two exhausted composite headsails
> (110&125) purchased with our 37, Sirius.
>
> The leeches on both sails reveal a tortured past with the babystay. With a
> new Precision tiradial 120 coming over winter, we’re practicing tacks with
> no babystay contact, backwinding lightly to pull the sail over.
>
> Improvement needed.
>
> For those of you with babystays, what strategies do you employ to avoid
> sail contact with the stay and/or minimizing damage?
>
> I’ll search archives, too. Thx
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Where to start with a gradually stiffening rudder? [C 34]

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Thank you for the super detailed advice Jeff and John! Will try tomorrow
morning!

On Mon, Jun 28, 2021 at 7:52 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> Did and do precisely the same for our 1982 34.  We dropped rudder about 10
> years ago so could properly clean and regrease the tube.  Also need to
> periodically lube and grease all components of the steering pedestal.  The
> shaft bearings are specified to use a Teflon grease. 30W oil for chain and
> idler pulleys.  Coat of grease on wire.
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, June 28, 2021 7:46 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Jeffrey A. Laman
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Where to start with a gradually stiffening
> rudder? [C 34]
>
>
>
> Hi Andrew,
>
>
>
> I have a 1981 C so not certain if we have the same rudder shaft
> arrangement, but I'll explain what I have and you can have a look at
> yours.  A friend has a 1981 C and his setup is the same.
>
>
>
> Crawl back below the cockpit to the rudder shaft and look for a grease cup
> on the rudder shaft housing.  The cup is about midway up the shaft housing
> facing forward.  It looks like a 1" diameter metal, screwed on cap about an
> inch tall (tall measuring horizontal).  Get yourself some good, waterproof,
> grease (the local marina recommended "Green Grease" but was out.  I stopped
> at WM and got some "Corrosion Block, Waterproof Grease".  It's blue.  Dig
> out whatever old grease you can from the grease cup and refill with fresh
> grease.  Screw the grease cup all the way back on.  Then repeat -- remove
> the grease cup, fill with fresh grease (no need to clean out because there
> will be a small amount of fresh grease from the previous cycle).  Repeat.
> Eventually you will see the old grease comming out the top of the rudder
> shaft housing.  If the boat is in the water, you can see the top of the
> rudder and watch for fresh grease coming out.  I did this about 20 times
> before much old grease started to move -- really old, brown, hard grease.
>
>
>
> The PO of my boat did not understand that the fill, screw on, remove,
> fill, screw on .. had to be repeated many times.  He filled the cup
> once, turned it on, and thought that was it!  PO used to brag how balanced
> the boat was as he let go of the wheel and the boat continued on -- fact
> was the steering was so stiff it took a lot to move the rudder.  Now I can
> steer with one finger after putting nearly an entire tube of grease in.
>
>
>
> You will find that crawling back to access the grease cup isn't a picnic.
> The C owner installed a Zerc fitting right on the grease cup and ran a
> 3ft hose forward.  I did the same.  Now we can attach a grease gun to the
> easily accessible hose and lube the rudder shaft.  Once a year ought to do
> it.  Good luck!
>
>
>
> Jeff Laman
>
> 1981 C "Harmony"
>
> Ludington, MI
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* Andrew Means via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, June 28, 2021 6:58 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> *Cc:* Andrew Means 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Where to start with a gradually stiffening rudder?
> [C 34]
>
>
>
> Hey all -
>
>
>
> When we bought our 1978 C 34 it had a nice smooth rudder action via our
> wheel helm. Over the past two years it's gradually stiffened and I think we
> need some amount of lubrication, but I'm not really sure where to start to
> diagnose the issue and come up with a plan to fix it. Anybody familiar with
> the steering setup on the 34?
>
>
>
> Andrew
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Where to start with a gradually stiffening rudder? [C 34]

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hey all -

When we bought our 1978 C 34 it had a nice smooth rudder action via our
wheel helm. Over the past two years it's gradually stiffened and I think we
need some amount of lubrication, but I'm not really sure where to start to
diagnose the issue and come up with a plan to fix it. Anybody familiar with
the steering setup on the 34?

Andrew
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List 2020 C Rendezvous: Cancel due to COVID-19?

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

If the physical rendezvous is canceled, could this be an opportunity for a
world-wide (virtual) rendezvous? People could sign up to give scheduled
presentations/talks, we could have open video chat rooms for people to
join, etc.. It could end up being just as edifying (albeit different) an
experience and a way to bring the community together in a way that would
never be physically possible.

On Tue, Jul 14, 2020 at 12:36 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Last year, I volunteered to host of the upcoming 2020 Mid-Atlantic C
> Rendezvous in Baltimore MD in late-September.  We recently returned from
> the relative safety of the Bahamas to a raging pandemic in the United
> States and it is far from being over, even though Maryland has done quite
> well in controlling the virus.  I am in my seventies and catching COVID-19
> could mean much more to me than simply being sick for several weeks—it
> could be a death blow.
>
> Consequently, I am withdrawing as a host for the upcoming rendezvous and I
> will not be attending one being held elsewhere.  I strongly encourage that
> this year's rendezvous be cancelled but that is up to everyone else on this
> list who lives in the Mid-Atlantic area.  In my opinion, a weekend get
> together (even with friendly C owners) is simply not worth the risk of
> catching COVID-19.
>
> So, I am throwing out the question to other possible attendees, should
> this year’s rendezvous be cancelled?  And, if not, who is willing to host
> it and where?
>
> Bob
>
> Robert Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38, Hull #230
> (Spending hurricane season in Baltimore, winters in the Bahamas, and on
> the ICW in between)
> 411 Walnut Street #11447
> Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
> (443) 994-1802
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Barient 27 winch servicing - still squeaks!

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Josh I thought that was the issue as well (and the screws have definitely
rubbed at some point in the past) but after adjusting the screws to make
sure they weren't rubbing I still hear the squeak.

On Tue, Jul 14, 2020 at 12:25 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I misspoke... The line lifter was the wrong term.  I meant the pressure
> plate.
>
> On Tue, Jul 14, 2020, 15:17 Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
>> The screws that hold the spring tension on the line lifter are too tight
>> and are rubbing on the bronze spindle below.  A series of small washers or
>> grinding of the screws short will most likely fix the problem.
>>
>> All the best,
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Jul 14, 2020, 13:08 Andrew Means via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all -
>>>
>>> The two Barient 27 primary winches on the Safari were in sorry shape, so
>>> last week I decided to service them. After a rather protracted battle I was
>>> able to disassemble and clean/oil/grease one of them to my satisfaction,
>>> however - when reassembling the first winch I realized that, while
>>> definitely smoother internal operations, it still squeaks!
>>>
>>> I think I've traced it to the line lifter rubbing on the clamp ring (see
>>> manual here
>>> <http://svsoggypaws.com/files/Winches/Barient%2027%20ST%20Winch%20Service%20Manual.pdf>).
>>> I didn't think I needed to remove the line lifter originally, but after
>>> tracing the squeak there I wasn't able to unscrew it (the manual says to
>>> tap it with a soft hammer - hitting it rather hard with a soft hammer
>>> didn't help either).
>>>
>>> Does anyone else have these winches on their boat? Anybody else had this
>>> problem?
>>>
>>> Andrew
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Barient 27 winch servicing - still squeaks!

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

I think the Barient 27s are measured somehow differently than Lewmar;
they're roughly equivalent to a Lewmar 40, size-wise. What size boat do you
have? Anybody have a good size comparison tool across winch brands?

On Tue, Jul 14, 2020 at 11:16 AM Matt Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sadly, it has been too long for me to remember what we did.  I serviced
> all the winches on my boat several years ago – okay, everybody, you can
> chastise me now.  I chuckled when I read that your boat uses size 27 for
> your primaries.  I use mine for my spin pole topping lift.
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Andrew
> Means via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 14, 2020 2:05 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Andrew Means 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Barient 27 winch servicing - still squeaks!
>
>
>
> Thanks Matt! I'll try some penetrating oil and see where it gets me. When
> you got the lifter arm off were you able to adjust the height so it no
> longer rubbed against the clamp ring? Or were you able to lubricate it a
> bit so it didn't squeak?
>
>
>
> Andrew
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 14, 2020 at 10:30 AM Matt Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Yes and yes.  I eventually got it off, but I can’t recall now how I did it
> (it was a while ago).  Try using some penetrating oil and let it sit before
> hitting it again.  I’ll take a look at mine and see if I can recall
> anything else I may have done.
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Andrew
> Means via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 14, 2020 1:07 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Andrew Means 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Barient 27 winch servicing - still squeaks!
>
>
>
> Hi all -
>
>
>
> The two Barient 27 primary winches on the Safari were in sorry shape, so
> last week I decided to service them. After a rather protracted battle I was
> able to disassemble and clean/oil/grease one of them to my satisfaction,
> however - when reassembling the first winch I realized that, while
> definitely smoother internal operations, it still squeaks!
>
>
>
> I think I've traced it to the line lifter rubbing on the clamp ring (see
> manual here
> <http://svsoggypaws.com/files/Winches/Barient%2027%20ST%20Winch%20Service%20Manual.pdf>).
> I didn't think I needed to remove the line lifter originally, but after
> tracing the squeak there I wasn't able to unscrew it (the manual says to
> tap it with a soft hammer - hitting it rather hard with a soft hammer
> didn't help either).
>
>
>
> Does anyone else have these winches on their boat? Anybody else had this
> problem?
>
>
>
> Andrew
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Barient 27 winch servicing - still squeaks!

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Thanks Matt! I'll try some penetrating oil and see where it gets me. When
you got the lifter arm off were you able to adjust the height so it no
longer rubbed against the clamp ring? Or were you able to lubricate it a
bit so it didn't squeak?

Andrew

On Tue, Jul 14, 2020 at 10:30 AM Matt Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yes and yes.  I eventually got it off, but I can’t recall now how I did it
> (it was a while ago).  Try using some penetrating oil and let it sit before
> hitting it again.  I’ll take a look at mine and see if I can recall
> anything else I may have done.
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Andrew
> Means via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 14, 2020 1:07 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Andrew Means 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Barient 27 winch servicing - still squeaks!
>
>
>
> Hi all -
>
>
>
> The two Barient 27 primary winches on the Safari were in sorry shape, so
> last week I decided to service them. After a rather protracted battle I was
> able to disassemble and clean/oil/grease one of them to my satisfaction,
> however - when reassembling the first winch I realized that, while
> definitely smoother internal operations, it still squeaks!
>
>
>
> I think I've traced it to the line lifter rubbing on the clamp ring (see
> manual here
> <http://svsoggypaws.com/files/Winches/Barient%2027%20ST%20Winch%20Service%20Manual.pdf>).
> I didn't think I needed to remove the line lifter originally, but after
> tracing the squeak there I wasn't able to unscrew it (the manual says to
> tap it with a soft hammer - hitting it rather hard with a soft hammer
> didn't help either).
>
>
>
> Does anyone else have these winches on their boat? Anybody else had this
> problem?
>
>
>
> Andrew
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Barient 27 winch servicing - still squeaks!

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hi all -

The two Barient 27 primary winches on the Safari were in sorry shape, so
last week I decided to service them. After a rather protracted battle I was
able to disassemble and clean/oil/grease one of them to my satisfaction,
however - when reassembling the first winch I realized that, while
definitely smoother internal operations, it still squeaks!

I think I've traced it to the line lifter rubbing on the clamp ring (see
manual here
).
I didn't think I needed to remove the line lifter originally, but after
tracing the squeak there I wasn't able to unscrew it (the manual says to
tap it with a soft hammer - hitting it rather hard with a soft hammer
didn't help either).

Does anyone else have these winches on their boat? Anybody else had this
problem?

Andrew
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Puspit Gate Options

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

If I wanted to keep the rail, would something like this possibly work?
https://imall.com/product/316-Marine-Stainless-Steel-1-Boat-Rail-Fittings-Folding-Swivel-Tube-Pipe-Connector-Joint-Pole-Railing-Mast-Canopy/Sports-Entertainment-Water-Rowing-Boats/aliexpress.com/32845168779/144-27264739/en

I would need to find a latch, but I can't seem to find anything that looks
like a latch...

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 8:07 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yep.  Agree.  Leave 2-4 inches of tube on each side.  In my original
> response I said drill and tap for a machine screw to secure the stanchion
> eye caps.  I'd install it on the underside of the tube and use threadlocker.
>
> Length of the wire gate would still be much shorter than the spans between
> lifelines.
>
>   --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 9:59 AM Matt Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> So, Dennis, you think it will work if he removes more of the upper tube
>> (almost back to the integral stern pulpit upright stanchions).  That’s a
>> long wire gate, but that would address the issue I raised.  I would also
>> suggest through-bolting the end caps holding the wire gate ends instead of
>> relying on the normal allen screw tighteners.
>>
>>
>>
>> Complicating matters, I saw in one of the photos the port upright
>> stanchion of the stern pulpit, but I did not see the starboard one.  As I
>> recall, the photo shows a portion of a Lifesling cover in this area.  Those
>> covers attach to the pulpit’s upper tube with Velcro straps, so he’ll
>> either need to leave enough upper tube (likely more than two inches) or
>> change the Lifesling storage location.
>>
>>
>>
>> There are several ways to skin the cat -- just be safe.  If a lot of
>> upper tube is left, rest assured someone will grab it for support.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Dennis
>> C. via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, July 10, 2020 3:27 PM
>> *To:* CnClist 
>> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Puspit Gate Options
>>
>>
>>
>> :o.  What?  I am absolutely gobsmacked that someone would not agree with
>> me 100%!  :)
>>
>>
>>
>> Seriously, Matt, good points.  I visualized cutting the upper tube close
>> to the vertical support.  Like maybe 2" out.  That would leave a rather
>> long wire gate but would minimize the opportunity for someone to bend the
>> tube.  Wire gates are fairly common.  The wire would run through the ladder
>> to secure it.
>>
>>
>>
>> However, I can't disagree with your suggestion to contact Whitewater
>> marine.  I used them a few times and have been totally satisfied.
>>
>>
>>
>>   --
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Puspit Gate Options

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Dennis regarding the SD270500 stanchion eyes, I'm concerned that the
eyelets might not be large enough to accommodate a traditional pelican hook
- do you know offhand if they are? I suppose I could probably check on my
boat next time I'm there : )

Thanks so much to everyone for all the insight and advice so far!

Andrew

On Fri, Jul 10, 2020 at 11:53 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Andrew,
>
> Cut off the horizontal tube where you want and install Sea Dog SD270500
> stanchion eyes in the tube.  Secure them with a machine screw.  They look
> like the cap on the picture you linked to.  From there, you can build a
> wire with pelican hooks on each end.  Done.
>
> If you want to save a few bucks, swage a thimble eye on one end instead of
> a pelican hook.
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Fri, Jul 10, 2020 at 1:35 PM Andrew Means via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi all - our C 34 has a bit of a hurry rigged pushpit gate to
>> accommodate our swim ladder. The gate is constantly coming undone and is a
>> liability.
>>
>> Here are some photos:
>> Gate
>> <https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fRcKebayCNvEiDFVWWjbdfrt_4wcxdK-/view?usp=sharing>
>> Hinge
>> <https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fV6FmLL-ppL3BEcSUG7pSUTCedL6-eF_=andrew%40transom.design=drive_fs>
>> Latch?
>> <https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fXCmVrk_9rxlFYqObzWMqXiQb0JX-wCI=andrew%40transom.design=drive_fs>
>>
>> The clumsily attached hinge and “latch” that isn’t really a latch make me
>> think it was added with the stern ladder. I want to replace it with
>> something like a wire gate, but I can't find the right fittings.
>>
>> This photo
>> <https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fSeoacTbteuikJRY6Zl312LxYeLf9PIP=andrew%40transom.design=drive_fs>
>> for a reference of what I was thinking for the bar ends (which I would then
>> attach a traditional wire gate to) but I wanted to get other folks’
>> opinions and see how they did it. How have other folks solved this issue?
>>
>> Andrew
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Puspit Gate Options

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Thanks all! I'll check out those parts *and* contact Whitewater and keep
everybody posted with the direction I take.

Andrew

On Fri, Jul 10, 2020 at 12:27 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> :o.  What?  I am absolutely gobsmacked that someone would not agree with
> me 100%!  :)
>
> Seriously, Matt, good points.  I visualized cutting the upper tube close
> to the vertical support.  Like maybe 2" out.  That would leave a rather
> long wire gate but would minimize the opportunity for someone to bend the
> tube.  Wire gates are fairly common.  The wire would run through the ladder
> to secure it.
>
> However, I can't disagree with your suggestion to contact Whitewater
> marine.  I used them a few times and have been totally satisfied.
>
>   --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Fri, Jul 10, 2020 at 2:09 PM Matt Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Twice today I am not in 100 percent agreement with Dennis (which is
>> rare).  As I looked at the hinge side of the tube, it appears to be bent
>> downward a bit.  If the tube at that location is not supported at all, I
>> would not be surprised if someone grabs the pulpit and bends the tube.  If
>> you are going to create a wire gate, the tube will be even less supported
>> than it is now.  I think you need some sort of a stanchion near the gate to
>> support the tube.  The lower tube looks like a slippery tripping hazard, by
>> the way, so you may want to address that issue at the same time.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thus my suggestion to contact White Water.  They made the stern swim
>> ladders for both my 34 and my 42.  I ended up buying an entirely new stern
>> pulpit for the 42, which is likely more than you want to get into.  I’ll
>> bet they can offer a cost-effective solution for a gate stanchion.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Dennis
>> C. via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, July 10, 2020 2:53 PM
>> *To:* CnClist 
>> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Puspit Gate Options
>>
>>
>>
>> Andrew,
>>
>>
>>
>> Cut off the horizontal tube where you want and install Sea Dog SD270500
>> stanchion eyes in the tube.  Secure them with a machine screw.  They look
>> like the cap on the picture you linked to.  From there, you can build a
>> wire with pelican hooks on each end.  Done.
>>
>>
>>
>> If you want to save a few bucks, swage a thimble eye on one end instead
>> of a pelican hook.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Diesel tank replacement on CNC 34

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hi all -

Wanted to share my experience replacing our diesel tank on our '77 CNC 34
and ask a quick couple questions. I'll ask the questions first and then
give the whole story:

1. I hooked the leads from the sender on our new tank

to the old gauge and it doesn't work. You can see photos of the old gauge
in the Google Drive linked below. Do I need to get a new fuel gauge? Also,
why in the world are there SO MANY red wires coming out of our existing
fuel gauge?

2. There wasn't a way to prime the line between my fuel filter and the tank
(no bulb in the tank and no pump on the filter). I ran the engine last
night for about 40 minutes without any problem, so maybe it's fine? Anyone
have any knowledge of this?

3. The old tank was grounded to the engine as well as to the deck filler
fitting. The new tank has no bosses for any kind of grounding, and,
somehow, I can't find any spot to ground the deck filler fitting. Do these
all need to be grounded?

Here's a Google Drive with a few photos
,
and here's the full account:

Back in May we discovered diesel in the bilge, which was traced back to our
40+ year old aluminum diesel tank. Since it was so old I decided to replace
it rather than try to repair it, and decided on a 19 gallon Moeller plastic
tank
,
as it was almost exactly the same size as our existing tank. The straps
that held down our existing tank were badly corroded, so I decided to use
their hold-down kit

- it seemed more clean and secure than straps anyway. This posed a problem
however, because the shelf that the tank was situated on was too small to
accommodate the additional space required by the brackets, so I had to
remove the existing shelf and cut a new one.

I used 5mm thick nitrile rubber from Gardico, a local rubber supplier to
rest the tank on - I ended up having to double it up to get proper tension
on the hold-down brackets, but the tank feels super solid now. I was able
to re-use much of the existing hose as it was in good condition, although I
ended up needing new new filler and vent hose as the tank's position had
shifted slightly forward.

At the end of the day the project ended up being a lot of work (I also
created new floorboards for the lazarette) but I'm glad to have it all done
in time for some nicer weather here in Seattle.

Andrew
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Stus-List Puspit Gate Options

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hi all - our C 34 has a bit of a hurry rigged pushpit gate to accommodate
our swim ladder. The gate is constantly coming undone and is a liability.

Here are some photos:
Gate

Hinge

Latch?


The clumsily attached hinge and “latch” that isn’t really a latch make me
think it was added with the stern ladder. I want to replace it with
something like a wire gate, but I can't find the right fittings.

This photo

for a reference of what I was thinking for the bar ends (which I would then
attach a traditional wire gate to) but I wanted to get other folks’
opinions and see how they did it. How have other folks solved this issue?

Andrew
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Re: Stus-List 34+ traveller relocate

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

I've thought of it. It would at least mean reworking the lazarette and the
small hatch on the port side of the cockpit. You'd need a good amount of
storage for the rope - with the boom swung out all the way and with a 3:1
purchase you'd be looking at nearly 70' of main sheet? I decided if i was
going to do more solo sailing I would probably just invest in a good
autopilot.

On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 11:57 AM Glen Dickson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looking for guidance. Has anyone moved the traveler on a 34+ aft to the
> binnacle area? The boom is almost 15’ long, and the traveler is only 5’
> from the mast, giving horrible purchase upwind. Looking to move it closer
> to end boom sheeting, but worried about structural integrity to support the
> traveler.
>
>
>
> Glen Dickson
>
> Nomad 1
>
> C & C 34+  #51
>
> Frenchman’s Bay Yacht Club
>
> Pickering, ON Canada
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Partnership opportunity for 1977 C 34 in Seattle

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

The S.V. Safari (a 1977 C 34) is looking for a fourth partner. Some
details:

*Model:* 1977 C 34
*Moored:* North end of Lake Union, Seattle
*Power:* Yanmar 3GM < 2000hrs
*Sails:* Main (2 reef points), 155 Roller-furling Genoa, Symmetrical
Spinnaker
*Moorage Costs:* $135/mo per owner
*Buy-In:* $5,000
*Features:* Bluetooth Stereo, Propane Grill on Aft Pulpit, Anchor Windlass,
Achilles Inflatable Hypalon Dinghy in excellent condition, stern swim
ladder, Bluetooth GPS

*Overview*
The current owners have owned the Safari for 4 years (purchased August
2015) and in that time we've really enjoyed sailing her all over Puget
Sound, the San Juans, and even out into the Pacific. The boat is a joy to
sail in nearly all conditions (she flies under spinnaker and sails herself
on a beat). Engine has been maintained with regular oil changes, has never
failed to start, and pushes boat at hull speed at 2800rpms. Here's a
partial gallery of photos.


*Current Owners*
The boat currently sees low-to-moderate use. One of the owners lives in New
York City, and one is a pilot. Between the two of them they make up less
than 10% of the boat's overall use. I use the boat the most, with
occasional after-work sails, a smattering of Bainbridge/Blake Island
cruises and one or two week-long cruises in the summer time. A new owner
would have ample opportunity to use the boat.

*Recent Maintenance*
New main 2016
New stereo system 2017
New roller genoa 2017
New sail covers, sail bags 2016
Waterproof iPad mount w/ in-cabin bluetooth GPS navigation system 2016
Completely new cabin upholstery 2017
Completely new running rigging including single-line reefing 2017-2018
New companionway hatch 2019
All teak varnished 2019
New depth sounder 2019
New LAVAC head pump 2019

*Planned Maintenance*
At purchase we did a survey and the boat was deemed to be in excellent
condition for its age. It still has the original rod rigging which has been
inspected with no obvious flaws, however in the next couple years the plan
is to replace with wire. Bottom paint was applied in 2017 and little to no
blistering was found. Fresh water means we can let bottom paint go longer
than otherwise, but repainting in 2020 would be wise. Additionally, the
topsides are scuffed and could use resurfacing and buffing. Aside from a
host of

*Ideal Owner*
The ideal owner would be someone with a good amount of sailing knowledge,
general enthusiasm and handy-ness for boatwork, strong character, and a
love of sailing. We are looking for a partner we can enjoy and share the
boat with together.

Interested parties are encouraged to contact myself at this email address.
___

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: How long before my bilge pump drains the batteries?

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Nice, that's good to know. This is a temporary situation, so 5 days at a
time shouldn't be a problem.

On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 1:49 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am getting about 2 AH per day out of that. 5 days should be OK with good
> batteries (for one battery). 10 days would be pushing it.
>
> My 50 watt solar panel would easily keep up with this and keep the
> batteries topped off. Even a 25 watt panel would do.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Andrew Means [mailto:andrew.cnc...@gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, August 12, 2019 4:37 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: How long before my bilge pump
> drains the batteries?
>
>
>
> Infinite battery life would be pretty great.
>
>
>
> I'm mostly just wanting to know if we're talking days or weeks here. The
> boat is away and offhand I can't remember what amp/hour batteries I have,
> but they're wet 12v batteries (i.e. probably like car batteries) so I feel
> like we could estimate 45 amp hours(?) per battery. The pump draws 1.9amps
> and the 'check' it does is about 1 second long, roughly every 30 seconds.
>
>
>
> I left the boat Sunday morning with the batteries mostly full and I'll be
> back to the boat on Thursday evening. Any reason I should be worried?
>
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 1:32 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> It will last for infinity if you get some good solar J
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Neil
> Andersen via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, August 12, 2019 3:59 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Neil Andersen 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List How long before my bilge pump drains
> the batteries?
>
>
>
> How many total amps in your battery bank?
>
>
>
> Neil Andersen
>
> 20691 Jamieson Rd
>
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Andrew
> Means via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, August 12, 2019 3:52 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Andrew Means
> *Subject:* Stus-List How long before my bilge pump drains the batteries?
>
>
>
> SHORT STORY: I have my boat on a mooring ball with a Rule 500gph bilge
> pump that seems to be ‘checking’ just about every 30 seconds (no idea why
> it’s doing that and not 2.5min). I’ve got a bank of two 12v batteries,
> pretty much fully charged. Roughly how long before they go flat?
>
>
>
> Long story available on request.
>
>
>
> Andrew
>
>
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
>
> Seattle, WA
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: How long before my bilge pump drains the batteries?

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Infinite battery life would be pretty great.

I'm mostly just wanting to know if we're talking days or weeks here. The
boat is away and offhand I can't remember what amp/hour batteries I have,
but they're wet 12v batteries (i.e. probably like car batteries) so I feel
like we could estimate 45 amp hours(?) per battery. The pump draws 1.9amps
and the 'check' it does is about 1 second long, roughly every 30 seconds.

I left the boat Sunday morning with the batteries mostly full and I'll be
back to the boat on Thursday evening. Any reason I should be worried?

On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 1:32 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It will last for infinity if you get some good solar J
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Neil
> Andersen via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, August 12, 2019 3:59 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Neil Andersen 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List How long before my bilge pump drains
> the batteries?
>
>
>
> How many total amps in your battery bank?
>
>
>
> Neil Andersen
>
> 20691 Jamieson Rd
>
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Andrew
> Means via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, August 12, 2019 3:52 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Andrew Means
> *Subject:* Stus-List How long before my bilge pump drains the batteries?
>
>
>
> SHORT STORY: I have my boat on a mooring ball with a Rule 500gph bilge
> pump that seems to be ‘checking’ just about every 30 seconds (no idea why
> it’s doing that and not 2.5min). I’ve got a bank of two 12v batteries,
> pretty much fully charged. Roughly how long before they go flat?
>
>
>
> Long story available on request.
>
>
>
> Andrew
>
>
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
>
> Seattle, WA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Stus-List How long before my bilge pump drains the batteries?

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

SHORT STORY: I have my boat on a mooring ball with a Rule 500gph bilge pump
that seems to be ‘checking’ just about every 30 seconds (no idea why it’s
doing that and not 2.5min). I’ve got a bank of two 12v batteries, pretty
much fully charged. Roughly how long before they go flat?

Long story available on request.

Andrew

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA
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Re: Stus-List Nonskid: Epoxy paint w/ 404 filler and a Kiwi Grip roller?

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Thanks Dennis & everyone else who offered advice!

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA

On June 4, 2019 at 12:56:23 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List (
cnc-list@cnc-list.com) wrote:

I've done several "rolled" nonskid applications but with gelcoat and
colloidal silica, not paint.  I used a honeycomb style roller.

Here's a link to the sea hood on a J35 I did a few years ago:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VvxtG8SaC6xeuhRuR9bE8rCrVJst6O87

Four pieces of advice.

1.  practice on a scrap of wood or similar.
2.  when you apply, roll in ONE direction only.  Do NOT roll back and forth.
3.  double tape.  That is, use two thicknesses of tape.
4.  Pull the tape when the paint is just set, not completely dry.  And pull
away from the nonskid at angle.  Don't pull straight up or towards the
inside.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jun 4, 2019 at 1:57 PM Andrew Means via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all -
>
> I’m in the last stages of refurbishing the fiberglass piece that covers
> the sliding companionway hatch on my C It had such extensive crazing
> on it that I ended up sanding the whole thing down, including all the
> non-skid. I’ve got new Interlux Perfection (Hatteras off-white) paint on it
> now, and it’s ready for nonskid. I want to roughly match the nonskid style
> on the rest of the deck, which is the Kiwi-grip style, but Kiwi Grip only
> comes in a limited number of colors.
>
> One solution I thought of would be to put 404 thickener in the paint and
> use a Kiwi Grip roller. Anybody done anything like this before? This is a
> low-traffic area, but there should be something there. Thoughts?
>
> Andrew
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___

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Stus-List Nonskid: Epoxy paint w/ 404 filler and a Kiwi Grip roller?

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hi all -

I’m in the last stages of refurbishing the fiberglass piece that covers the
sliding companionway hatch on my C It had such extensive crazing on it
that I ended up sanding the whole thing down, including all the non-skid.
I’ve got new Interlux Perfection (Hatteras off-white) paint on it now, and
it’s ready for nonskid. I want to roughly match the nonskid style on the
rest of the deck, which is the Kiwi-grip style, but Kiwi Grip only comes in
a limited number of colors.

One solution I thought of would be to put 404 thickener in the paint and
use a Kiwi Grip roller. Anybody done anything like this before? This is a
low-traffic area, but there should be something there. Thoughts?

Andrew

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA
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Re: Stus-List Partnership buyout - without an agreement

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Thanks so much for all this feedback! Neil, I'll be getting in touch
offline.

If/when we find a new member we will definitely be doing a new agreement -
does anyone have suggestions for boilerplate partnership agreements (or
want to share their agreement text)? I think buyout is probably the area
where the most contention could arise (say, expectations for speed of
buyout, selling to somebody the partners don't like, etc.). What language
do your folks' contracts have to protect the participants in those
situations?
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Stus-List Partnership buyout - without an agreement

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hey all -

I’ve been part of a boat partnership for the past 9 years with three of my
friends. This partnership has lasted over a series of boats and we’ve had
very few issues with the whole arrangement.

Presently however one of the partners is wishing to be bought out or to
sell their share, just before a re-rigging project.

Since we don’t have an agreement in place we have to navigate these waters
ourselves, but I wanted to see if you guys had experience or knew what the
most common buyout arrangements (i.e. what agreement *might* we have signed
had we signed one 9 years ago?). If we find a buyer we all like in short
order then this may all go perfectly smoothly, but if we don’t I’d like to
have advice for the best way(s) to proceed.

Andrew
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Stus-List Diesel Air Heaters (Webasto, Planar, Eberspaecher/Espar)

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hey all -

Does anybody have experience with buying/installing/using a Diesel Air
Heater (a-la Webasto, Eberspacher, Planar) in lieu of a
propane/diesel/solid fuel fireplace-type heater?

The Safari (1977 C 34) currently has an ancient forced-air kerosene
vaporizing heater that has nearly caught itself on fire multiple times when
guests (and less-informed owners) have neglected to read the impossibly
complex startup and shutdown procedure. It’s also battleship grey, weirdly
shaped, and mounted on a bulkhead out in the open. And it takes 25 minutes
to give full heat.

Originally we were thinking of replacing it with a propane or diesel
fireplace type heater a-lal Dickenson or Sig, but somebody pointed me to
Diesel Air Heaters like Webasto, Eberspaecher and Planar, and they seem
like they could be a great fit. We have plenty of room to mount one in the
engine compartment, we get near instant heat, we already have (some)
ductwork run, and it would run off our existing diesel fuel supply.

Presently I’m leaning towards the Eberspaecher/Espar Airtronic 12V (
http://www.heatso.com/eberspacher-airtronic-d2-12v-2-2kw-heater-kit/
)
- it’s nearly half the price of the Webasto models. Planar seems like
another lower cost option, but apparently it’s from Russia and that makes
me nervous.

Anybody used any of these? Why are Webastos $2700 and the Espars are $800?

Andrew

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA
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Re: Stus-List $750 at Fisheries Supply - what to buy?

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Good point - we’ve got a couple automatic PFDs but it’d be smart to have
enough so that everyone can wear one all the time.

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA

On December 20, 2016 at 7:00:33 AM, William Walker via CnC-List (
cnc-list@cnc-list.com) wrote:


I love my auto pilot, but in reading your post I think you should buy pfd
that you will actually wearauto pilot will leave you in the dust if you
fall off, and temptation to leave cockpit is high when Otto is driving...

Bill Walker
Cnc 36



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Re: Stus-List $750 at Fisheries Supply - what to buy?

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

I feel like I see a reasonable amount of solar panels on the cruising boats
at Shilshole but certainly less than you would in lower latitudes. The
Safari mainly does day sailing with some moderate-length cruising in the
San Juans, Gulf Islands and off the Vancouver coast. Long 10 hour days of
motoring in non-existent Puget Sound wind makes me yearn for an autopilot...

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA

On December 19, 2016 at 2:28:01 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List (
cnc-list@cnc-list.com) wrote:

I'd be buying solar panels and associated controller/regulators.  But
perhaps in Seattle solar panels are more wishful thinking than practical..
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 19, 2016, at 4:27 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hey all -

I have recently found myself with $750 worth of gift cards to spend at
Fisheries Supply. I’m debating about what to buy and thought you guys might
be able to help me.

Big-ticket items I’d like for my 1977 C 34:

*Some kind of autopilot system* - It looks like from the website Fisheries
autopilot systems are not really aimed at sailboats, but I wonder if they’d
be able to order something. Defender’s got the Raymarine Evolution EV-100
Wheel Autopilot Pack
<http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|344|2028687|2028710=2305359>
at
$1249, which is obviously a chunk more than I’ve got but it could be an
option. I am thinking however that I’d probably prefer to buy a simpler
autopilot (something that basically just holds a course) second hand from
somebody who is looking to upgrade and save a lot of money that way.
Anybody have experience with the Raymarine unit or used units I should be
on the lookout for?

*Self-Tailing Winches for the cabin top* - right now we’ve got two
mismatched non-self-tailing winches on our cabin top and it’d be pretty
nice to have the matched and self tailing winches there. Two of these
<http://www.fisheriessupply.com/lewmar-single-speed-aluminum-self-tailing-winches>
would
run past my budget but it would be worth it. They’re single speed though,
so operations like reefing might be challenging. I could just get one
dual-speed self-tailing winch this season and look to upgrade the second
next season... Again, I’m not opposed to looking out for used self-tailing
winches at the next swap meet.

Other things the boat could use:

+ New Spinnaker Halyard (definitely needed for next season)
+ New topping lift, foreguy lines (currently old but not bad)
+ More automatic PFDs (we’ve got plenty of life vests but if we have auto
PFDs we’ll have better luck getting people to wear them)

What do you guys think? If you had $750 to spend on boat gear what would
you spend it on?

Andrew


-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA

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Re: Stus-List $750 at Fisheries Supply - what to buy?

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Unfortunately all my $750 is in Fisheries Supply gift cards, so I’m kinda
stuck with getting stuff from them...

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA

On December 19, 2016 at 1:49:32 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List (
cnc-list@cnc-list.com) wrote:

Since you're not too far from Portland, look at what Columbia Marine
Exchange has to offer:

http://www.columbiamarineexchange.com/sailboat_hardwware.htm

Kim also can get you new items, usually matching or beating Defender, and
there's no income tax in Oregon.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Dec 19, 2016 at 1:27 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey all -
>
> I have recently found myself with $750 worth of gift cards to spend at
> Fisheries Supply. I’m debating about what to buy and thought you guys might
> be able to help me.
>
> Big-ticket items I’d like for my 1977 C 34:
>
> *Some kind of autopilot system* - It looks like from the website
> Fisheries autopilot systems are not really aimed at sailboats, but I wonder
> if they’d be able to order something. Defender’s got the Raymarine
> Evolution EV-100 Wheel Autopilot Pack
> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.defender.com_product3.jsp-3Fpath-3D-2D1-257C344-257C2028687-257C2028710-26id-3D2305359=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=-B3QzKXPkPaYmuFy9f1aG0OFIzltvXaHqY-F3cmaK3A=Kdvo_H2Mn3tFB0OoQERAMs1PVkLgmrWIWgi_E83TFdw=>
>  at
> $1249, which is obviously a chunk more than I’ve got but it could be an
> option. I am thinking however that I’d probably prefer to buy a simpler
> autopilot (something that basically just holds a course) second hand from
> somebody who is looking to upgrade and save a lot of money that way.
> Anybody have experience with the Raymarine unit or used units I should be
> on the lookout for?
>
> *Self-Tailing Winches for the cabin top* - right now we’ve got two
> mismatched non-self-tailing winches on our cabin top and it’d be pretty
> nice to have the matched and self tailing winches there. Two of these
> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.fisheriessupply.com_lewmar-2Dsingle-2Dspeed-2Daluminum-2Dself-2Dtailing-2Dwinches=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=-B3QzKXPkPaYmuFy9f1aG0OFIzltvXaHqY-F3cmaK3A=xzyYwgm_C04ub2YlNCkq1VMJT7ZjLe2AM19o3nAQ3tw=>
>  would
> run past my budget but it would be worth it. They’re single speed though,
> so operations like reefing might be challenging. I could just get one
> dual-speed self-tailing winch this season and look to upgrade the second
> next season... Again, I’m not opposed to looking out for used self-tailing
> winches at the next swap meet.
>
> Other things the boat could use:
>
> + New Spinnaker Halyard (definitely needed for next season)
> + New topping lift, foreguy lines (currently old but not bad)
> + More automatic PFDs (we’ve got plenty of life vests but if we have auto
> PFDs we’ll have better luck getting people to wear them)
>
> What do you guys think? If you had $750 to spend on boat gear what would
> you spend it on?
>
> Andrew
>
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
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> XcK7jZthD184f4W0-jKvXr8F4=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


--
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List $750 at Fisheries Supply - what to buy?

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hey all -

I have recently found myself with $750 worth of gift cards to spend at
Fisheries Supply. I’m debating about what to buy and thought you guys might
be able to help me.

Big-ticket items I’d like for my 1977 C 34:

*Some kind of autopilot system* - It looks like from the website Fisheries
autopilot systems are not really aimed at sailboats, but I wonder if they’d
be able to order something. Defender’s got the Raymarine Evolution EV-100
Wheel Autopilot Pack

at
$1249, which is obviously a chunk more than I’ve got but it could be an
option. I am thinking however that I’d probably prefer to buy a simpler
autopilot (something that basically just holds a course) second hand from
somebody who is looking to upgrade and save a lot of money that way.
Anybody have experience with the Raymarine unit or used units I should be
on the lookout for?

*Self-Tailing Winches for the cabin top* - right now we’ve got two
mismatched non-self-tailing winches on our cabin top and it’d be pretty
nice to have the matched and self tailing winches there. Two of these

would
run past my budget but it would be worth it. They’re single speed though,
so operations like reefing might be challenging. I could just get one
dual-speed self-tailing winch this season and look to upgrade the second
next season... Again, I’m not opposed to looking out for used self-tailing
winches at the next swap meet.

Other things the boat could use:

+ New Spinnaker Halyard (definitely needed for next season)
+ New topping lift, foreguy lines (currently old but not bad)
+ More automatic PFDs (we’ve got plenty of life vests but if we have auto
PFDs we’ll have better luck getting people to wear them)

What do you guys think? If you had $750 to spend on boat gear what would
you spend it on?

Andrew


-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Boat cover and sails for C 34 (1977)

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hey all -

Safari came with a full boat cover that we don’t have storage space for and
I’d like to offer it to anybody on the list. You’d have to come pick it up
or make arrangements to ship, but I won’t charge you anything for it. It’s
blue sunbrella material and it looks to be in pretty good condition. I
haven’t seen it on the boat yet.

I’ve also got a used main sail: Staaf Sails paneled - dacron luff / kevlar
laminate leech - needs some slight repairs if anybody wants it for a spare.

Andrew


-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA
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Re: Stus-List Offshore passages as crew - where to start?

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Thanks Tom, I’ll check out the crew bank, that seems like a good resource.
Crazy about the storm/becalmed situation…

I won’t be able to make it to Thetis (at least, not without seriously
inconveniencing my employees) but would love to meet up with other Puget
Sound C owners sometime soon - maybe a sail to Blake Island in the fall?

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA

On July 13, 2016 at 1:56:16 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List (
cnc-list@cnc-list.com) wrote:

Andrew

This looks pretty close to home for you...http://www.vicmaui.org/crewbank

Check the Race Tracker too.  The Vic Maui race started a few days ago and
1/2 the fleet is becalmed and the rest is facing a huge storm.  Looks like
exactly what you're looking for!

Hope to see you at the Rendesvous on Thetis next month.  www.candcwest.org

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com

At 09:00 AM 7/13/2016, you wrote:

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2016 23:46:28 -0700
From: Andrew Means 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Offshore passages as crew - where to start?
Message-ID:
 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

My recent trip to Tofino and the west coast of Vancouver Island has
convinced me I want to do more offshore passages, and eventually cross
oceans. I have a fair amount of experience sailing around Puget Sound/San
Juans/etc. and feel like I?d be fairly useful addition to most crews.

If you had very little offshore sailing experience and had set a goal of
sailing to or from Hawaii within the next 1-3 years (crewing on somebody
else?s boat), how would you go about it?

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Re: Stus-List Offshore passages as crew - where to start?

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

I have, thanks Doug - I’ve been meaning to make it out to a meeting but
situations keep conspiring to prevent me from attending. Is it possible to
go to the cruise if I miss the meeting?

Andrew

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA

On July 13, 2016 at 10:26:48 AM, svpegasu...@gmail.com (
cnc-list@cnc-list.com) wrote:

Andrew,  have you heard of the Puget Sound Cruising Club (PSCC)? We meet
every 3rd friday at the NSCC library hall. And go on a cruise the following
weekend. There are members that are or have sailed all over the world. I am
sure you can find someone looking for crew. Maybe not to Hawaii, but
someplace across the great blue ocean.  Come check us out, there at least 2
other listers that are members.



Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38 #4

just west of Ballard, Wa
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Stus-List Offshore passages as crew - where to start?

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

My recent trip to Tofino and the west coast of Vancouver Island has
convinced me I want to do more offshore passages, and eventually cross
oceans. I have a fair amount of experience sailing around Puget Sound/San
Juans/etc. and feel like I’d be fairly useful addition to most crews.

If you had very little offshore sailing experience and had set a goal of
sailing to or from Hawaii within the next 1-3 years (crewing on somebody
else’s boat), how would you go about it?

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Orcas on Puget Sound

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hahaha, it wasn't me filming. This is a good opportunity to bring back this 
chestnut: https://youtu.be/L1c1zf0_VxU

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 29, 2016, at 1:57 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Awesome!!
> 
> you gotta start holding yoour phone wide angle
> 
>> On 4/11/2016 2:04 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List wrote:
>> Yesterday we sailed to Bainbridge for lunch and, after running aground in 
>> Eagle Harbor (our depth sounder is on the fritz & I got careless), and 
>> dinner at the Harbor Island Pub we headed back into Puget Sound and were 
>> treated to this pod of Orca Whales. They came and checked us out and we 
>> sailed with them off our port beam for about 40 minutes. A number of times 
>> they swam directly under the boat, sometimes in pairs, on their backs. We 
>> saw at least one baby orca, and one patriarch with a dorsal fin at least 4ft 
>> tall. It was amazing. I’m still high from it. I’d never seen Orcas before in 
>> all my sailing on the Sound, and now we were face to face with them. Thought 
>> you guys might like to see!
>> 
>> https://youtu.be/1MYgneDPeLk
>> 
>> My friend’s wife Jamie shot the video (I was to agog to do anything 
>> but squeal). After this we proceeded to sail on a broad reach in light airs 
>> and perfectly flat sea on our way past West Point towards the locks. Also, a 
>> little bonus - effectively zero wait time in the locks or at the bridges on 
>> our way to and from Lake Union!
>> 
>> Hope you’re all having amazing springs (or falls for those of us in the 
>> southern hemisphere)! 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Andrew Means
>> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
>> Seattle, WA
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Bulkheads separated from cabin top (C 34)

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

This is good to hear! One other spot we noticed was where the top of the
engine compartment meets the bottom of the cockpit. Creaking happened there
when we were headed upwind as well. Is this another area with “natural”
flex for others?

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA

On June 27, 2016 at 5:54:22 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List (
cnc-list@cnc-list.com) wrote:

Hi Andrew



As near as we can tell, the upper bulkhead is not bonded to the deck – and
for a reason.  C’s do flex a bit as they sail – especially as they bash
to windward.  The lack of this bond allows this flex to happen – all well
and good as the stresses are dispersed throughout the entire hull.  That
said, the flex is moderated / controlled by a stainless “T” tang that is
attached by bolts through the deck and also through the bulkhead.  Ours was
leaking a bit which we fixed by rebedding in butyl.  Your photos seem to
show a glue used to affix the head liner (not the deck) to the bulkhead has
failed but do not think it is of great concern as was not structural in the
first place.  Overall, a noteworthy observation of minimal consequence so
go sailing and have some fun





John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT



*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Andrew
Means via CnC-List
*Sent:* Monday, June 27, 2016 5:15 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Andrew Means
*Subject:* Stus-List Bulkheads separated from cabin top (C 34)



Hey all -



Last week while S.V. Safari was bashing upwind offshore en route to Tofino
BC I noticed that the forward bulkheads were creaking. Upon closer
inspection I realized that they had separated entirely from the cabin top
by moving inboard about 1.5cm.



Here’s the port bulkhead: http://imgur.com/Meqa58I

And here’s the starboard: http://imgur.com/MIZHoiG



The ends of both bulkheads are prevented from moving farther inward by the
termination of the slots in the fiberglass ceiling that they’re nested in.
You can see in the photos that they were at one point glued in.



The bottoms of the bulkheads seem to be very well fiberglassed in to the
hull, and there’s no sign of breakage along the lower parts. The bulkheads
that form the forward walls of the hanging locker and bathroom are also
separated too, by what looks like the same amount.



Looking at previous photos it looks like they’ve been like this since
before we bought the boat. They’re not loose at all, they seem very well
set in place.



Questions:

1. Is this a common problem?

2. How in the world would we fix this?

3. How critical is it to fix this immediately? Were we courting disaster to
push the boat hard offshore?





-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I

Seattle, WA

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Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List Bulkheads separated from cabin top (C 34)

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hey all -

Last week while S.V. Safari was bashing upwind offshore en route to Tofino
BC I noticed that the forward bulkheads were creaking. Upon closer
inspection I realized that they had separated entirely from the cabin top
by moving inboard about 1.5cm.

Here’s the port bulkhead: http://imgur.com/Meqa58I
And here’s the starboard: http://imgur.com/MIZHoiG

The ends of both bulkheads are prevented from moving farther inward by the
termination of the slots in the fiberglass ceiling that they’re nested in.
You can see in the photos that they were at one point glued in.

The bottoms of the bulkheads seem to be very well fiberglassed in to the
hull, and there’s no sign of breakage along the lower parts. The bulkheads
that form the forward walls of the hanging locker and bathroom are also
separated too, by what looks like the same amount.

Looking at previous photos it looks like they’ve been like this since
before we bought the boat. They’re not loose at all, they seem very well
set in place.

Questions:
1. Is this a common problem?
2. How in the world would we fix this?
3. How critical is it to fix this immediately? Were we courting disaster to
push the boat hard offshore?


-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA
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Stus-List intermitent vibration/shudder in ocean swells

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hey all -

My friends and I are currently in Tofino, BC on day 6 of a much needed
vacation. So far our Yanmar GM30F and 3-bladed max-prop have been
performing brilliantly, sipping diesel and pushing the boat through the
less-windy sections of Strait of Juan De Fuca and up and over some large
ocean swells on our way up to Tofino.

Yesterday on the way up from Ucluelet I felt a shudder/vibration as the
boat crested a swell. It was short but pronounced. The motor didn’t change
RPM at all or seem under load. About 10 minutes later it happened again,
also over a swell. This time we had to lower the RPM of the engine and let
it idle - when we brought it back up it was smooth again. This happened
maybe 6 times over the course of the passage, always starting as we were at
the top of a swell.

We’d been going through swells at the same angle under power the day before
with no trouble, the only difference this time was that the little wind
there was was behind us.

The only thing I can think of is that one of the blades of the max prop is
feathering as we go over these swells. I have no idea how one would fix
that - or if there’s any way to do so without hauling the boat out (hoping
to avoid that mid-trip…)

Any ideas?

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA
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Re: Stus-List Simrad WP30 just turns to starboard

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

I believe the WP30 is a direct drive unit (gears vs. belt) and I can hear the 
motor, so I’m pretty sure it’s not trying to adjust to port.

It also doesn’t have a rudder angle indicator (I think it’s completely 
self-contained unit that mounts on the pedestal). 

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA

On May 25, 2016 at 7:24:01 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List (cnc-list@cnc-list.com) 
wrote:

I have an even older Navico WP5000 on my 38, and had a similar problem a couple 
of years ago. It would track straight but drift to port – basically the wheel 
would turn when the pilot was adjusting to port but not when the adjustment was 
to starboard. Turned out that the belt was worn and slipping in one direction. 
A new belt and increasing the tension on the belt fixed my problem. YMMV.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Means 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2016 8:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Means <andrew.cnc...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Simrad WP30 just turns to starboard

 

Hey all - 

 

I’ve got a Simrad WP30 that only seems to like steering to starboard. After 
following the instructions in the manual for holding a course it does nothing 
except make many small adjustments to starboard, at which point the boat just 
goes in circles. The PO said he thought it had worked at one point, but never 
used it. The manual isn’t helpful at all, and these posts from Cruisers Forum 
don’t seem to offer up any solutions.

 

Is there any hope for my unit, or should I be looking for another? I’m hoping 
to do more singlehanded sailing later this year and I’d really like to have an 
autopilot for longer passages. The WP30 is exactly the level of functionality 
I’m looking for - just something that can hold a course and tack. Sub $500 
would be awesome, I assume at that price I’m going to be looking for a used 
unit. Any suggestions? 

 

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I

Seattle, WA

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Stus-List Simrad WP30 just turns to starboard

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hey all - 

I’ve got a Simrad WP30 that only seems to like steering to starboard. After 
following the instructions in the manual for holding a course it does nothing 
except make many small adjustments to starboard, at which point the boat just 
goes in circles. The PO said he thought it had worked at one point, but never 
used it. The manual isn’t helpful at all, and these posts from Cruisers Forum 
don’t seem to offer up any solutions.

Is there any hope for my unit, or should I be looking for another? I’m hoping 
to do more singlehanded sailing later this year and I’d really like to have an 
autopilot for longer passages. The WP30 is exactly the level of functionality 
I’m looking for - just something that can hold a course and tack. Sub $500 
would be awesome, I assume at that price I’m going to be looking for a used 
unit. Any suggestions? 

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Dumb wiring question

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hey listers - 

Forgive the elementary wiring question: I’m running a (single) wire from the 
running lights circuit on my switch panel to the base of my mast to wire up a 
windex light. Can I wire the negative return from the light to a 
negative/ground of one of the other circuits? Or does each circuit need its own 
negative/ground?

I ask because I wasn’t able to find the running lights circuit (I think the 
wires are glassed in between the headliner and the deck, actually) and there is 
an unused wire running from the port hanging locker to the starboard settee 
(where the rest of the mast wires are staged). Running duplex along that route 
would be exceedingly difficult (it’s crazy tight with other wires already) and 
I’d like to avoid it if I can. 

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA___

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Re: Stus-List Wiring windex light to running lights [C 34]

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

We’ve just got an anchor light up there at present and obviously we can’t run 
our anchor light while sailing. I thought about getting a tricolor, but 
honestly I am a little leery of other ships only being able to see one light at 
a time - it’s probably completely unfounded, but I feel like being able to see 
the bow light and stern light (if beam-on or aft) might make a difference. 
Obviously in heavy seas you might not see low-mounted running lights at all, so 
there the tricolor is obviously superior… 

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA___

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Stus-List Wiring windex light to running lights [C 34]

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Just bought a Davis Windex Light for evening/night sailing and was thinking I’d 
wire it up to the running lights circuit so it’s on when the running lights are 
on. Leaving aside the certain fun of getting a new wire up the mast without 
unstepping it, I’m trying to figure out the best way to wire it to the running 
lights circuit.

I tried tracing the running lights wires, but the bow lights wire disappears up 
behind the switch panel and isn’t seen again until it comes out of the 
fiberglass in the anchor locker. Is there any place amidships where I would be 
able to access these wires? For the life of me I can’t find where they run… 

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA___

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Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Guys this is fantastic information (and hopefully not too expensive)! Thanks to 
everybody for all the info. If I end up doing the work to remove the 
transmission I'll do my best to document the process for posterity.


> On May 10, 2016, at 11:17 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thank you
> 
>   Virus-free. www.avast.com
> 
>> On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 1:49 PM, Dave Syer via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I used the auto supply stuff -  “weapons-grade” is not so available up here 
>> in Canada! . 
>> 
>> I brushed a thin film of the compound (basically grit in grease) onto the 
>> mating surfaces, mated them, and rotated the cone back and forth.Did not 
>> do complete rotations only because Mr. Robinson told me not to in shop class 
>> back in ’78.   (lawn mower valves – different thing as they don’t rotate in 
>> use.)
>> 
>> Again, make sure you reassemble the parts as they were removed, (mark with a 
>> punch) and be really careful to clean away the compound.   A solvent wash 
>> will show you how much grit there is, and how gritty is that grit. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Here is a pretty decent link on this, one of the posts refers to a site with 
>> photos, where you can see the various parts.   You will need a gear puller.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=154931
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> 
>> Date: Tue, 10 May 2016 09:07:32 -0400
>> 
>> From: "Rick Brass" 
>> 
>> To: 
>> 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
>> 
>> Message-ID: <004b01d1aabc$ea4ca480$bee5ed80$@earthlink.net>
>> 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Or this. Available at most any local auto parts store for a lot less cost.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> http://www.autozone.com/shop-and-garage-tools/valve-grinding-compound/permatex-valve-grinding-compound/526806_0_0/?checkfit=true
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/abrasives/lapping-compounds/lapping-compounds-prod1137.aspx
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Brian Davis
> 1980 C Landfall 38
> "Nina"
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Ugh - that sounds expensive. I’ll see about holding the lever down, maybe it 
just needs tensioning… 

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA

On May 9, 2016 at 9:12:16 AM, Derek McLeod via CnC-List (cnc-list@cnc-list.com) 
wrote:

I had a similar issue with my 29mk2 with Yanmar 2GM. Turned out it was the 
transmission slipping. I suspected my Flexofold prop at first, and eventually 
discovered that pushing the shifter hard down helped, before having a mechanic 
aboard who immediately recognized it as the transmission. All better now since 
having it rebuilt. Adjusting the shift cable may help as well. 

Derek McLeod 
Aileron, 1983 29MK2
Toronto, ON
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Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Boat: 1977 C 34
Engine: Yanmar 3GM30 (F)
Prop: 3 Blade Max Prop

Recently I noticed that when engaged in forward-drive, at low RPM, it almost 
feels like something is banging against the bottom of the hull, like a piece of 
kelp or rope tangled in the prop. Once the RPMs get above 1400 or so the 
roughness goes away completely and everything feels very smooth.

Additional info: 

+ Looking at the propshaft and listening for knocks coming from the engine 
doesn’t reveal anything obvious.
+ We ran aground recently, but just the keel in soft sand. Bottom was painted 
between now and then and yard didn’t report anything amiss.
+ In reverse at the same RPMs everything feels pretty smooth.

I’m waiting for the next 80° day to dive under the boat and see what I can see, 
but was wondering if that’s even where I should be looking. Does this sound 
familiar to anybody else?

Andrew

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA___

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Stus-List Riser for rope clutches - what to make it out of?

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hey all - 

I posted a bit ago with my obscenely overwrought diagrams for how I was 
planning on running some of my lines aft. My crew is generally made up of drunk 
Seattle hipsters, so the simpler I can make things for them the better.

There’s a problem though - the companionway hatch cover seam is right in line 
with the direct path for the lines to take as they run under the traveler to 
the winch.

Here is the diagram showing the overall situation:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7bkh0uzetxmwd5b/Screenshot%202016-05-02%2008.09.03.png?dl=0

And here’s a series of photos that show it: 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/203020/Safari/Projects/Running%20Rigging (I 
know the rope clutch is backwards here, we were just mocking it up : )

So I’m thinking of having a block made of something (StarBoard? Acrylic? Teak?) 
to mount the cleats/clutches on (since they could do to be raised anyway) and 
bolt the hardware to the block, and then bolt the block to the cabintop (using 
the existing screw hole for the corner of the block that goes over the 
companionway hatch seam).

Questions:

A) What should I make this riser out of?
B) Where should I get it cut/milled in Seattle? I want to match the slope of 
the cabin top so the top of the riser is flat.
C) How much should I overbuild this? This is going to be my two reefing lines 
and my main sheet (I plan on having a matching riser on the starboard side for 
boom vang, main halyard and topping lift). Should I bolt as much hardware as I 
can all the way through the board?

Andrew  

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA___

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Stus-List Indoor teak and non-skid

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

One of the first things I did upon purchase of the Safari was to remove the 
worn out non-skid on the companionway stairs. It left very clear areas where it 
had been protecting the teak and where it had not. It also alerted me to the 
fact that the stairs, and areas around the stairs on the galley look like they 
could use some love.  See my album here:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0ZGWZuqDGeuehF

Any suggestions for:

A) best non-skid option for stairs (esp. descending just along the front edge 
of the steps, which seems to be where most accidents occur) and

B) how to treat the indoor teak to help it better match the rest of the teak in 
the cabin? I presume it’s oiled, but that’s about where my knowledge stops.

Andrew

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA___

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Stus-List Running Rigging Diagram

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hi all - 

Thanks in part to the great advice everybody gave on this thread I think I’ve 
got a solution for the running rigging on S.V. Safari.

See here for my entirely too detailed diagram and description:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3H_qPPkESLKcHpHZVJhVzQ1TDQ

Ideally I’d like to do 2B, even though everybody decries single-line reefing I 
think it really is best for the kinds of sailing we do and the crews we have, 
as very often I’m the only one who knows how to sail. Being able to say to a 
novice crew member:

“Wrap that red line three times clockwise around that winch and crank 
until I tell you to stop.”

is so much simpler than asking somebody to climb on deck and wrestle the dog 
bone over the reef hook (“wh- what?”), or trying to shout instructions while 
I’m on deck trying to wrestle the dog bone over the reef hook.

In these diagrams I’ve led the outhaul aft and left the vang & cunningham up at 
the mast (although there are fairleads installed for the spinnaker downhaul on 
the starboard side of the cabin). The rationale with keeping the vang at the 
mast is that if we attach it with a snap shackle we can remove it and use it as 
a preventer by attaching it to the toe rail when running wing & wing. 
cunningham and vang are also more performance-oriented controls, and we’ll have 
a more experienced crew when we race.

Well, what do does everybody think?

Andrew

PS - If anybody else is savvy with Adobe Illustrator and wants to use this to 
map out their own running rigging adjustments let me know and I’ll be happy to 
send it over.

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA___

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Stus-List Orcas on Puget Sound

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Yesterday we sailed to Bainbridge for lunch and, after running aground in Eagle 
Harbor (our depth sounder is on the fritz & I got careless), and dinner at the 
Harbor Island Pub we headed back into Puget Sound and were treated to this pod 
of Orca Whales. They came and checked us out and we sailed with them off our 
port beam for about 40 minutes. A number of times they swam directly under the 
boat, sometimes in pairs, on their backs. We saw at least one baby orca, and 
one patriarch with a dorsal fin at least 4ft tall. It was amazing. I’m still 
high from it. I’d never seen Orcas before in all my sailing on the Sound, and 
now we were face to face with them. Thought you guys might like to see!

https://youtu.be/1MYgneDPeLk

My friend’s wife Jamie shot the video (I was to agog to do anything but 
squeal). After this we proceeded to sail on a broad reach in light airs and 
perfectly flat sea on our way past West Point towards the locks. Also, a little 
bonus - effectively zero wait time in the locks or at the bridges on our way to 
and from Lake Union!

Hope you’re all having amazing springs (or falls for those of us in the 
southern hemisphere)! 

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA___

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Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Our sailing season is just starting, but even in the off season we’ll find days 
to get out and take the boat for a spin. We’ve done a few sails already this 
year. We have new sunbrella sail covers so the main will pretty much always be 
dry and protected from the sun.
 
-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA

On March 26, 2016 at 2:06:50 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
(cnc-list@cnc-list.com) wrote:

That's a good point.  Will you be able to sail 12 months a year? 

Our sails spend almost 6 months a year in storage.  I'm sure that proper stored 
sails last longer just due to less exposure.  Improper stored sails will 
probably need replacing sooner than ones that remain on the boat all year. 

While speaking with the designer,  we talked about UV protected threads and 
when is best to use them.



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message 
From: Leslie Paal via CnC-List 
Date: 3/26/2016 3:41 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Leslie Paal 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails

A friend got RT sail (135) about two years ago.  It is quite OK for cruising, 
BUT he had to replace the dacron sun-cover with Sunbrella and repair some of 
the stitching.  It cost him $800.  The sail spent "all the time" on the furler 
since we get to sail 12 months a year (SoCal).

Leslie.
Phoenix C 1983


On Sat, 3/26/16, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  wrote:

Subject: Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Danny Haughey" 
Date: Saturday, March 26, 2016, 6:34 AM

---%<


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Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hey all - 

As part of the long list of refinements and upgrades we need to make on the 
Safari, we’re looking at getting a new main sail from Rolly Tasker via National 
Sails in FL. Here’s the details of the quote:

C 34 (Does anybody feel like confirming that I’ve got these measurements 
correct?)
I = 44’
J = 14
P = 38.25
E  = 10.92

Fully Battened Mainsail - Challenge 8.3oz High Modulus Dacron, 2 reefs - $1,459
Comes with leech lines with clam cleats, tell tales, flo-stripes*, and sail 
bags. Construction includes triple-stitched seams, large radial corner 
reinforcements, with handsewn leather chafe protection.

Seems like 8 out of 10 folks have overall positive experience with RT sails. 
There are scattered reports of quality issues, but I’m inclined to see that as 
a risk of any production sail loft. Have any of you ordered from them before? 
What’s been your experience? I’m inquiring about adding a cunningham and seeing 
what our options are for the slugs. Are there other options you’d recommend I 
request? 

Before anybody suggests I go to a custom sailmaker to get a super high quality 
sail, the price is really what we can afford right now; if we need to spend 
more money to get a decent sail then we’ll have to wait another season or two 
to replace our (very tired) main. Willing to do that if enough folks wave us 
off RT, but hoping this could be a great solution for our casual cruising needs!

Andrew

*What the heck are Flo-Stripes?
-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 MK I
Seattle, WA___

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Re: Stus-List Running linesaft to cockpit on C 34 - locating rope clutches

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hey all - 

Thanks so much for all your insight! If anyone has time and inclination I’d 
love to see any examples of your running rigging, especially anything where 
you’re running reefing lines or topping lifts from the boom back to the mast 
and aft to the cockpit.

Charlie I like your idea of running low-load lines to the hatch cover assembly, 
I’ll look into that feasibility.

Dennis thanks for the insight about winch placement, we’re definitely going to 
be taking that into consideration.

Whomever noticed was right, we currently don’t have a vang setup. It’s on the 
list. 
-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari
Seattle, WA

On March 24, 2016 at 9:08:40 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List (cnc-list@cnc-list.com) 
wrote:

Charlie, I agree.  I also have two Spinlock Cam Cleats inboard of my rope 
clutches for the Cunningham and outhaul, two low load lines.

http://www.apsltd.com/hardware/cleats-clutches/cam-cleats-accessories/spinlock-cam-cleats-accessories.html

These are really nice but one tip.  If they aren't very near the bulkhead, you 
need to elevate them a bit.  The line needs to be pulled slightly downward to 
cleat it.  If they are too far forward, you can't get the downward angle to get 
them to cleat.  Mine are on StarBoard pads.

Also, I use one for my clew reefing line.  It's on the side of the boom.  Very 
easy to yank the reefing line and cleat it.  Also very easy to shake out the 
reef.

As I said in an earlier post, I don't like these for a vang.  They sometimes 
don't release quickly under load and can re-cleat when you don't want.  
Otherwise, I like them.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Mar 24, 2016 at 10:52 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Another alternative to consider is something like my 36 XL/kcb was rigged by 
the factory or the Harve de Grace yard--not sure which.
 
4 of the relatively low-load control lines rigged on Water Phantom (Cunningham, 
vang, topping lift and outhaul) can be run to cam-cleats like the Harken 150 
which can be mounted on the hatch cover assembly. This reduces the need for 
using winches or rope clutches on any of them and puts them in the control of 
the pit for racing.
 
Of course, it does require some additional purchase on these lines (except for 
the topping lift) but this purchase can be rigged forward of these cleats (mast 
for Cunningham, inside boom for outhaul). Most vangs already have plenty of 
purchase built in.
 
This reduced the need for my cabin top winches so that I can do with only 2 (of 
the original 4) for the halyards (main, jib, spin port and starboard and the 
all important center board pennant-which has a 3-1 purchase built in.
 
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb
 
 
 
cenel...@aol.com
 
 

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Re: Stus-List Running lines aft to cockpit on C 34

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hey Patrick

That would be awesome; so much of this stuff is definitely better thinking it 
out in person and with the materials at hand.

What’s your schedule tomorrow or next week? I’m kind of hobbled right now after 
a bike wreck (rear-ended while waiting to turn left onto Wallingford from 34th) 
so I’ll probably be working from home tomorrow and could walk down to the boat 
from my place (36th and Wallingford). Next week I’m hoping to be at the office 
but maybe we could meet after work or something. 

Andrew

-- 
Andrew Means
Sent with Airmail

On March 24, 2016 at 11:49:13 AM, Patrick Davin (jda...@gmail.com) wrote:

Hey Andrew, 

I'm in Seattle, work near the Fremont Bridge, and frequently bike by Lake Union 
on my way home. If we can find a time I'd be happy to drop by sometime - might 
be easier to get some ideas in person, and there's a lot to cover. 

Looks like you're at Affinity, just past Fremont Brewing, which I walk by 
almost every afternoon to get in a post-lunch walk (and window shop the boats 
at the Pacific Seacraft brokerage).

External reef lines on the boom shouldn't be a problem - I have that, they run 
down to a block on the mast collar. If centered, there shouldn't be much 
stretch as the boom moves out.

-Patrick
C LF38

On Thu, Mar 24, 2016 at 9:00 AM,  wrote:
Hi all - First time poster here, so let me know if I’m doing any of this 
incorrectly. Brief introduction: my name is Andrew Means, I own the S.V. 
Safari, a C 34 MKI moored on Lake Union in Seattle, WA, with three of my 
friends. We sail the Safari—mostly casually—around the Puget Sound region. You 
can see a pic of the Safari here: http://imgur.com/OdrC0Bk

Now to the questions: I'm in the process of reworking my running rigging and 
I'm curious to see how other C 34 owners run lines aft to the cockpit. Which 
lines do you run? How do you get them aft? Which do you consider the most 
important to have in the cockpit?

I've been looking through pictures of C 34s online (mostly found in for-sale 
listings) and trying to get a handle on the best way to run our main sheet, 
vang (to be installed), reefing lines, topping lift, outhaul, etc.. I think I 
have resigned myself to the fact that with our boom (original to the boat) we 
probably aren't going to be able to have the reefing lines run aft to the 
cockpit because they run externally on the port side of the boom and a swinging 
boom would tigthen/loosen them if they were run back to a turning block on the 
mast.

Priorities:
We are generally casual cruisers, often with inexperienced crew. Safety while 
reefing is a big priority, but as noted above I don't see how we can run the 
lines back to the cockpit without a completely new boom with internal reefing 
lines. Prove me wrong?

Here's the state of the union:

Boom, Port Side - http://i.imgur.com/yTDeEWR.jpg
The 1st and 2nd reefing lines terminate on the boom. Topping lift is currently 
cleated mid-boom, which is super annoying. It would be nice to have the topping 
lift  run aft. I’ve been told that the cam cleats are not suitable for cleating 
reefing lines (and I agree, as they’ve slipped out before).

Boom, Starboard Side - http://i.imgur.com/ixYRPwy.jpg
Outhaul, flattening reef.

Mast Base, Port Side - http://i.imgur.com/7kozeHd.jpg
Deck organizer currently has main halyard (red fleck) and main sheet (blue 
fleck). Main halyard enters the mast just below the gooseneck.

Mast Base, Starboard Side - http://i.imgur.com/XTkuphN.jpg
Our Jib Halyard is going to be replaced and we're going to get a haylard bag on 
the mast. We'll also likely remove some of this deck hardware (that aft winch 
will be moved to the starboard side of the companionway to handle other lines.)

Cabintop cleats & winch (port) - http://i.imgur.com/DHavs7p.jpg
I'm replacing these abominations with a proper triple rope clutch, forward of 
the winch.

Well, what do you folks think? For cruising around Puget Sound, San Juans, etc. 
and a little bit of beer can racing, how would you set this up? Pics of your 
own setup would be hugely appreciated, especially if you've got a C 34 or 
something of similar vintage!

Thanks in advance for the advice, looking forward to knowing other C owners!

Andrew

-- 
Andrew Means


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