Stus-List Prop shaft zincs, bonding and corrosion

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

I seem to be burning through zincs on my prop shaft, replace them at least 
twice or more in a season. I posted a photo previously in the group of a shaft 
brush (https://drive.google.com/drive/u/1/my-drive) someone helped me figure 
out what it was. Currently the wire on it leads nowhere which got my started on 
this goose chase, researching shaft brush’s and bonding systems.

Anyway my question is should I be connecting the wire coming from this shaft 
brush to a DC ground? Or will that simply connect the stray current from the 
dissimilar metals (bronze prop, steel shaft) outside of the boat, to the engine 
“earth” and start to corrode the engine? 

I’ve got AC shore power but had a Galvanic Isolator installed, so I’m not sure 
where the stray current is coming from or what is eating through these zincs so 
quickly. If anyone has any ideas or has had a similar experience with burning 
through zincs or bonding systems, and found a solution (other than changing 
zincs more frequently) please let me know!

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
1980 C MKI
Hull 615

Vancouver BC


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Stus-List Flying Thru Zincs and What the Heck Is This Wire?

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

I seem to replace zincs more than usual, perhaps a symptom of my Marina and the 
proximity to tug boats who drop barges of gravel off on the other side of the 
creek. Anyway I was snooping around the engine and discovered that the other 
end of (what appears to be a ground) wire running from a steel tang resting on 
the prop shaft to a corroded wire that goes nowhere. Does anyone have other 
ideas about what this metal piece on the shaft is used for, and it it was 
intended to ground the prop shaft to prevent my zinc habit.

Here’s a photo: 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EqgjP3GIU0TPHkF2BPOT3bVz4QoDBiI0/view?usp=sharing

Thanks!

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
1980 C MKI
Hull 615




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Re: Stus-List West Coast rendezvous

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Never mind I found the site (https://cncrdv.wixsite.com/cncrdv 
<https://cncrdv.wixsite.com/cncrdv>) thanks, maybe I’ll see you there!

> On Jul 9, 2018, at 10:15 AM, Chris Hobson  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Lee.
> 
> Do you have any other details like location or info about this year’s 
> festivities?
> 
> This would be my first.
> 
> 
>> On Jul 9, 2018, at 9:37 AM, Lee Youngblood  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> August 10, 11, 12th  It’s on my calendar - hope I can make it. . .
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jul 9, 2018, at 9:06 23AM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Can anyone tell me the dates of the West Coast rendezvous, couldn’t find 
>>> anything on the website, I’m in the Vancouver area. Would be great if the 
>>> dates worked so I could make the trip and meet some likeminded individuals.
>>> 
>>> Chris
>>> 1980 C 30MK1
>>> FCYC
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List West Coast rendezvous

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Thanks Lee.

Do you have any other details like location or info about this year’s 
festivities?

This would be my first.


> On Jul 9, 2018, at 9:37 AM, Lee Youngblood  
> wrote:
> 
> August 10, 11, 12th  It’s on my calendar - hope I can make it. . .
> 
> 
>> On Jul 9, 2018, at 9:06 23AM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Can anyone tell me the dates of the West Coast rendezvous, couldn’t find 
>> anything on the website, I’m in the Vancouver area. Would be great if the 
>> dates worked so I could make the trip and meet some likeminded individuals.
>> 
>> Chris
>> 1980 C 30MK1
>> FCYC
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> 
> 


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Stus-List West Coast rendezvous

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Can anyone tell me the dates of the West Coast rendezvous, couldn’t find 
anything on the website, I’m in the Vancouver area. Would be great if the dates 
worked so I could make the trip and meet some likeminded individuals.

Chris
1980 C 30MK1
FCYC
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Stus-List Smile away - G-Flex or Fiberglass

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Hauled out today for a quick bottom job. Yard suggested fibreglass for the 
crack, but then there’s also G-Flex. Epoxy and fairing could be an option but 
that would add on to the project. Any success or opinions on one or the other? 
It’s a minor smile, no torquing keel bolts at dropping anything. 

Chris
80’ C 30 MK1

Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List Cabin top grab-rail removal/refasten 30' MK1

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

With the cabin headliner on my 1980 30’ MK1 being one solid piece, there are no 
accessible bolts for the cabin top grab rail. I’m sure I could figure out how 
to remove the grab rail but without a bolt to hold the underside to tighten it 
back up I’m a bit lost. Does anyone know how how I’d refasten one of these to 
the cabin top?

I suppose one way to find out would be to cross my fingers remove the grab 
rails, and have look around. 

Thanks
Chris
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Stus-List 81' C 30 - removed a winch, filling deck holes for winter

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

In an effort to reduce constant dripping from a neglected winch fastened to my 
deck support along-side the mast (common on the 80’ MK2) I removed it, cleaned 
with Acetone and filled the holes with Life Caulk. That way my settee below 
doesn’t get soaked each rainfall during our Vancouver winter. In hindsight I 
realize you can’t paint silicone and that clear Life Caulk doesn’t match the 
deck. So is it better to do a job like this with epoxy? I.E. dig out the old 
silicone and replace with epoxy that matches the deck color (in spring of 
course)? I used what I had.

The actual core along these deck supports on either side need to be cut out and 
replaced, but presentation is everything until I can get to that list item.

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
1980 C MKI
Hull 615




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Stus-List C 30 MKII - Winter or Spring anti-fouling/bottom job?

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

This is a two part query about doing the bottom of a sailboat by a first-timer.

The high pressure spray that removed the previous saltwater growth of 1.5 years 
(during the survey in July) also removed part of the protective coat of 
anti-fouling that was left. I thought I would get around to re-doing the bottom 
this past summer/fall. It didn’t happen. Now I'm approaching winter and 
contemplating a haul-out in November (in rainy Vancouver) or waiting until 
spring. But I’m not sure how much more work would be involved by putting it off 
until spring. Would like to hear some other opinions on this.

I also have a marina telling me soda blasting is the way to go. And based on 
the hell that is involved with a project like this, my lack of time and the 
weather, I’m contemplating it.

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
1980 C MKI
Hull 615




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Stus-List Yanmar 2QM15 - Anti-seize, lock tight, gaskets

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Currently replacing fuel filters and doing general maintenance on a neglected 
engine. Replacing the zincs, tightening nuts, replacing hoses. And after 
switching out the zinc and tightening the nut I wondered if it should be 
putting a liquid gasket, blue lock tight or anti seize on there. What are the 
must-haves for protecting an engine when taking things apart and putting them 
back together? 

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
1980 C MKI
Hull 615




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Stus-List GPS, Chart Plodders and Technology when there is none

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

We’re in Vancouver BC, Georgia Straight can get foggy, tides come and go and 
we’re new at this. We have no GPS on our new to us 1981 C 30 and very little 
in the way of navigation other than dead reckoning, basic familiarity with the 
area and a compass at the helm. It’s fun because it’s like we just purchased a 
1981 C and technology isn’t around yet. However every sail is a guessing game 
and I’d like to hear what others use for costal navigation. Whether it’s real 
tangible maps, a GPS system you swear by or an iPad with some software curious 
to hear what other C owners use to get find their way.

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
1980 C MKI
Hull 615


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Stus-List 1980 C 30 MKI - DIY Lifelines

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

The surveyor when I bought the boat said I could replace the standing rigging 
myself one wire at a time. Of course I had a lot of gusto when I first 
purchased her and balls to hoist atop and unclip 37 year old standing rigging. 
Today I have the phone number of a rigger who was recommended to inspect my 
original rig and lifelines, expecting a hefty price tag I am keen on the idea 
of at least doing the lifelines myself. Digging around I found these 
hand-crimping lifeline fittings from Bosun 
http://www.bosunsupplies.com/Lifeline-Fittings-Hand-Crimp/ 
 anyone had any 
experience replacing their lifelines and any lessons they could pass on? I’m 
sure having the rigging replaced could mean a deal on the lifelines, but wanted 
to explore my options.

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
1980 C MKI
Hull 615



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Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Recently filled up the V birth water tank and discovered a slow leak. PO left 
it empty and now I know why. This eventually drained everything into my bilge, 
as the tank is now empty and the bilge is full. So that needs to be fixed. Has 
anyone repaired a plastic water tank before, or do you typically replace them? 
it looks like the leak comes from one of the fittings fastened to the tank. 

Second question which I'm sure most of you could answer, does the sink in the 
head generally drain into the holding tank or go overboard? from what I can see 
the sink drains directly into a seacock fastened to the hull. 

Chris Hobson
s/v "Going"
1980 C 30 MKI




Sent from my iPhone.
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Stus-List Rear Cockpit (2 x hole) covers

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

I love music, but on a sailboat I prefer the sounds around me. So my latest 
project is sourcing the two original sleeves and covers for the holes in the 
cockpit behind the wheel, where there are currently two speakers. The PO 
installed the speakers with some kind of builders adhesive which has 
permanently sealed the speakers, and the stereo in the cabin, to whatever it’s 
attached to. I learned the hard way with a box cutter trying to take the 
adhesive off the stereo casing that holds it in place by promptly cutting my 
finger open. It’s solid as a rock. In the case with the rear cockpit speakers, 
the sleeves that previously allowed the two plastic covers to screw and lock 
into place are married to the speakers. This isn’t exactly a stereo I can 
re-sell on craigslist so I might have to 86 the whole stereo. Not a loss. In 
any case, does anyone know where I can find a set of the original sleeves and 
covers for the holes, other than eBay?

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
1980 C MKI
Hull 615




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Stus-List Deck creaking mystery + spider cracking at stanchions

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

The surveyor found what he said was wet deck near a stanchion aft of the 
shrouds, at the base are spider-cracks. I’ve sounded that area of the deck 
myself, measured with a moisture meter and found nothing notable - but I’m no 
expert. 

I even drilled a pilot hole down below to see if water was in the core from the 
underside and it's dry as a bone. Which tells me the spider cracking around the 
base of the stanchion is compromising the integrity of the top layer. And if 
you put pressure on it it flexes. But so do other stanchions. Also there’s 
about 4-5” of solid fibreglass from the hull/deck joint around the entire 
perimeter of the boat which takes up about 60% of the area where the spider 
cracks emanate out from. I might grind it out and re-epoxy. 

Also when I jump up and down forward/aft of the chainplates there’s creaking. 
The only thing I can connect it with is the teak woodwork down below where it 
meets the deck is perhaps rubbing. Otherwise it’s pretty sound and there’s no 
obvious flexing on the deck other than at the stanchion. 

Anyone else have a squeaky deck? And I assume that any and all of this is 
pretty much on par with a boat of this vintage. I just like the idea that it’s 
something I can resolve. 

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
1980 C MKI
Hull 615


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Stus-List Crack at hull support below chainplate (cont...)

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Thanks for the feedback. I did some snooping and surely it’s a shelf, not 
structural. Will tab it with fibreglass and call it a day.

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
1980 C MKI
Hull 615


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Stus-List Crack at hull support below the chainplate

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Discovered a crack on the portside inside the cabin where the chainplate 
attaches to the fibreglass hull/deck support. Not sure if this is structural or 
cosmetic. Had someone jump up and down on the portside deck forward and aft of 
the shrouds to see if there was any movement. Didn’t see any. Have a look at 
the photos:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_lwczpvPcEHeE5nY0VTYlJ3Z0U?usp=sharing 


Chris Hobson
S/V Going
1980 C MKI 
HIN 615___

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Stus-List Removing and re-bedding Lexan windows

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Previous owner claimed new Lexan “waterproofed windows” and a mysterious leak 
that no one could find on the starboard settee. We hosed down the topsides 
yesterday and discovered TWO mysterious leaks, one for each port window. One 
into a light above the salon table and the other on the settee. Mystery solved. 

The windows aren’t separating from the deck so I’d like to keep the windows I 
have, thinking I’ll try the South Shore Yachts approach and see how long it 
lasts:

Purchase: “Sudbury” Liquid Elastometric Penetrating Sealant (3oz Tube – 
Available at South Shore Yachts for $11.50 plus shipping and tax), 2″ good 
quality masking tape, rags and cleaner for clean-up.

1. Clean window and deck. While doing this, try and locate the area of the leak.
2. Once you have located the leaking areas, cover the window around area or the 
whole window. (we prefer to use 2″ tape covering the whole window and the deck 
above the window leaving a space between the taped surfaces of 1/16″ to 1/8″
3. Once area is dry, apply the sealant in a fine bead at the leaking area or 
along the entire length of the window from the bottom of the forward edge up 
along to top of the window and down the aft edge. Let this dry and reapply for 
a second time.
4. Clean area and allow sealant to cure. Then water test and repeat Step 3 if 
the window is still leaking.

And if that doesn’t work I’ll save the window-replacement project till next 
year and get a roll of tape. 

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
C 30-1 #615
Vancouver___

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Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...)

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the feedback regarding the bilge re-wire on my 30-1, very 
helpful advice really appreciate it. I’m now going down the rabbit-hole of 
electrical and figured I’d post a few photos because maybe something is 
glaringly obvious with my current setup and one of you can point it out. 

I discovered a secondary battery switch today for all the negative battery 
terminals from my #2 house battery under the galley cupboard, not sure how 
common it is to have two main battery switches like this.

Also found out, as I accidentally left the main battery switch on #1 battery 
the other night from too much vino, it’s still dead and hasn’t recharged even 
though I’m connected to shore power (albeit a sketchy shore power hookup) to my 
True-charge battery charger.

Could be one of two things: battery #1 is toast might remove and do a load 
test, or try to find if there’s a power draw somewhere down the line that 
surpasses the 10amp charger. Surveyor thinks it’s a badly hardwired autopilot 
and noted curious oxide on the prop, but I don’t know enough about bad wiring. 
So anyway here are some photos of my current setup:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_lwczpvPcEHd3R5NXVlNC1tRkE?usp=sharing

Photo #1: Cabin main switches - lights illuminated from lazarette being open.

Photo #2: New battery switch discovered under galley counter port-side for 
negative terminals.

Photo #3: Truecharge 10amp Battery Charger hooked up to shore power. Neg and 
Pos go to battery #2 and a third Pos wire goes to battery #1.

Photo #4: Truecharge wiring on batteries.

Photo #5: Wide shot of negative terminals(below) going in port-side cupboard 
under galley counter to main battery switch #2, Pos terminals going to main 
Cabin for battery switch #1.

The way I see it I have three options:

A: Call a marine electrician - I did this morning and he’s booked till 
September figured I may as well just keep up the detective work
B: Something is glaringly obvious about this setup and one of you points it out
C: Keep digging

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
C 30-1 #615
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Stus-List Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Need to wire the bilge pump direct to the battery and bypass the distribution 
panel. Currently have to turn battery on for it to work. Simple enough, just 
not something I've done before. Has anyone wired this or know how to install a 
switch (3-way) to do so? No I'm not an electrician and yes I'm aware of the 
consequences of electricity.

Chris Hobson
s/v Going
1980 C 30 MK1
Hull #615
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Stus-List New owner, 1980 C 30' MK1, SV "Going"

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Still squaring away the details for my second day of boat ownership on my new 
(to me) 1980 C 30 MK1. Yesterday when I signed the papers, got the keys and 
cracked a beer to watch my first sunset in the cockpit, I had mixed feelings of 
elation and a good dose of: oh-shit-I-just-bought-an-old-boat. Because who 
really knows if the surveyor missed something, or what’s going on between a 
hull and a keel joint. I’m not getting any younger and I feel like the fun 
happens when you jump in the water and figure it out as you go. Maybe we should 
change the definition of what a boat is: A hole in the water in which one 
jumps. Anyway I’m proud to be part of the group and always wanted a C I’m an 
Ontario boy who’s now on the west coast and ready for sailing, with a whopping 
to-do list to get through in the coming months. Wish me luck!

Chris


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Re: Stus-List 80' C 30 Smile Photo

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Forgot the photo!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_lwczpvPcEHY2lHTzZnMngwbWM/view?usp=sharing

Thanks,
Chris



> On Jul 21, 2017, at 8:01 AM, Chris Hobson  wrote:
> 
> Lifted the boat and saw the smile, think it was done with g-flex? Apparently 
> the crack is hairline, not deep, not structural. And was filled -- now 1.5” 
> wide with the filler. Apparently no one went aground - by current or previous 
> owner (only two). Surveyor thinks otherwise and says to monitor drop and 
> re-bed if it reappears. The bolts were clean in the bilge, no movement on the 
> crack when two of us heaved as hard as we could. Maybe it’s fine, thoughts?
> 

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Stus-List 80' C 30 Smile Photo

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Lifted the boat and saw the smile, think it was done with g-flex? Apparently 
the crack is hairline, not deep, not structural. And was filled -- now 1.5” 
wide with the filler. Apparently no one went aground - by current or previous 
owner (only two). Surveyor thinks otherwise and says to monitor drop and re-bed 
if it reappears. The bolts were clean in the bilge, no movement on the crack 
when two of us heaved as hard as we could. Maybe it’s fine, thoughts?


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Stus-List 1980 C 30 headliner removal + the notorious C smile

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Curious how involved removing the cabin headliner is on a 1980 C MK1 would 
like to get access to replace/re-bed a bunch of things including the grab 
rails. 

Also, a common question I’m sure that gets asked a lot with C, but is it 
typical for most of this vintage to have the C “smile” at the keel? Obviously 
a good grounding would cause it. I’ve checked the keel bolts and they look good 
and clean with no signs of stress from inside the bilge, and no water. Will be 
hauling out soon for a closer look owner says it has the “usual smile." I’ve 
heard of owners who dropped the keel to check bolts for corrosion. I got rough 
estimates for this at around 4k. Pretty expensive price tag for some piece of 
mind. 


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Re: Stus-List 1980 C 30 purchase queries

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Clearly the blisters didn’t slow your ambition to fix her up and sail, I 
appreciate your ambition. And that blisters were hiding so far under the 
surface tells me that its something of a hidden problem.

Thanks,
Chris



> On Jul 9, 2017, at 2:58 AM, T power <sv_invic...@outlook.com> wrote:
> 
> I have a 1973 MKI . great boat. Solid hull. Last year when i bought it. I 
> sanded adout 4 layers of old bottom paint, found about 4 pin sized blisters, 
> had the rest of the paint removed by soda blasting. That reveled a few 
> thousand pin sized blisters. Some epoxy, lots of sanding. Followed by barrier 
> and bottom paint and it is good to go. 
> I also have some softened deck next to the mast, stanchon spider cracks and a 
> port chainplate that is leaking, which will need addressing.
> They are a great boat, very fun.
> 
> Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/ghei36>
> From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Chris Hobson via 
> CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Saturday, July 8, 2017 4:08:00 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Chris Hobson
> Subject: Stus-List 1980 C 30 purchase queries
>  
> Hey all, I'm about to go through with a survey on a 1980 C 30, noted a few 
> things on my own initial inspection, curious if other 30 owners of this 
> vintage have had similar repairs and how much of a concern the repairs were. 
> 
> Here’s what I found:
> - Moisture along the top of the raised dorade boxes - heard something about 
> this area being a high stress area next to the mast
> - Stanchion flex on one port-side spider cracking at the deck
> - Owner states “one dime-size blister” is this a red herring? Thinking where 
> there’s one blister there’s more. One of the subjects were: any more than 6 
> blisters and the owner pays for the haul out. Have had two bad experiences 
> before on previous boats I surveyed wanted to be covered.
> - Any idea what the consistency of the hull is on this vintage? I.E. balsa 
> cored at the waterline
> 
> Appreciate any thoughts or insights. 

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Stus-List 1980 C 30 purchase queries

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Hey all, I'm about to go through with a survey on a 1980 C 30, noted a few 
things on my own initial inspection, curious if other 30 owners of this vintage 
have had similar repairs and how much of a concern the repairs were. 

Here’s what I found:
- Moisture along the top of the raised dorade boxes - heard something about 
this area being a high stress area next to the mast
- Stanchion flex on one port-side spider cracking at the deck
- Owner states “one dime-size blister” is this a red herring? Thinking where 
there’s one blister there’s more. One of the subjects were: any more than 6 
blisters and the owner pays for the haul out. Have had two bad experiences 
before on previous boats I surveyed wanted to be covered.
- Any idea what the consistency of the hull is on this vintage? I.E. balsa 
cored at the waterline

Appreciate any thoughts or insights. ___

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Stus-List 86' C MKIII Window options

[CHRIS HOBSON via CnC-List]

Hi,

Still eyeballing an 86’ MKIII for sale and contemplating possible cosmetic 
upgrades if I were to purchase. Not a big fan of the single pane plexi window 
wondering if I can make it two panes like a few years earlier before they 
changed it. Would be great if I could get some trim that goes around each pane 
to make the appearance a bit cleaner. Found a website that sells the plexi, 
just curious if anyone has done this.

Cheers,
Chris




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Stus-List Possible offer on a 86' C MKIII - with photos/video

[CHRIS HOBSON via CnC-List]

Hoping to get some perspective from the group on a boat I’m interested in. I’m 
not a surveyor but I took some photos and video (in the link below) of a 86’ 
C MKIII I'm considering making an offer on. And would really appreciate some 
thoughts on it to save me the hassle of paying a surveyor if something is 
obviously wrong with it. The possible areas of concern without a proper survey 
and my limited knowledge are:

- water in the core of the deck around the mast (see photos) haven’t tested
- corroded boom (hinge?) 
- some bubbling/corrosion under paint on engine
- bad seal around two large side port-lights, interior I saw silicone around 
perimeter 
- few loose stanchions 
- original (I think) standing rigging

Short story is owner bought it a year ago didn’t sail it much or from what I’ve 
seen, maintain it. Here is a link to view the photos/video I took. I did not do 
a correct test with a hammer or moisture reader on deck but did walk around 
quite a bit and there was nothing obvious in the way of soft spots. 

Anyway here is the link would love to hear what others think:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bx6tzmnoism-Y2g1UERWXzZ6NXM=sharing

Cheers
Chris




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Re: Stus-List Vancouver Area C 35/36 search questions

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

You’re right, that was me (offshore74) asking a million questions over on 
Sailnet :) I really like being as informed as I can be from all angles, hence 
the reason I came over here where C owners reside as one of you here 
suggested. I’m not as overwhelmed by the idea of cored hulls after hearing some 
more points of view so it’s helpful.

Thanks for all the insights I will be speaking with a reputable surveyor 
tomorrow to grill him on his experience with C and cored hulls. I will also 
have a rigger (who the broker offered up) give some free advise beforehand on 
some of the shrouds which are…rod? Not the wound cable type. Another big ticket 
item. 

So far based on what I know, the current 40k asking price (with room to pay for 
upgrades/repairs and needed equipment) is a bit steep. But I’ll know more once 
I get some experts to poke around before putting a serious offer on the table 
before sea trial/survey.

Thanks,
Chris

Chris Hobson, Owner
HobsonBuildsCo.com 
ch...@hobsonbuildsco.com 
416-436-1037




Building editable websites for small business one pixel at a time.

> On Mar 25, 2016, at 4:12 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Um, I know. Guess my sense of humor didn’t come through…  ;-)
> 
> Anyway, I just wanted the OP to not be overly concerned about the boat 
> surveyor’s thoughts on balsa cored hulls. I thought he was, shall we say, a 
> bit too dramatic regarding the issue. There’s no point in scaring folks that 
> are new to modern cored boats. They are still being built for some reason.
> 
> Best,
> 
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>> On Mar 25, 2016, at 6:42 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> It's the same person...
>> Someone finally took the advice to come here seriously. 
>> 
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>> 
>> On 25 March 2016 at 11:13, Dave Godwin via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> Chris,
>> 
>> Seems there’s a guy over on SalNet that is looking at the same two boats as 
>> you. I posted a reply there. It may be of some help to you.
>> 
>> I’m spending crazy money and time on my 1982 C 37. That should tell you 
>> something about what I think of their quality. Or my state of mind. ;-)
>> 
>> Anyway, there’s a couple of posts in my blog about wet core and stuff like 
>> how C did a really good job of securing their fastenings.
>> 
>> Best,
>> 
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List Vancouver Area C 35/36 search questions

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

I’m new to C world, recently narrowed down my boat search to a C and 
currently have my eye on two that are on the market: a 1986 C 35 MKIII and a 
1979 C 36. Have heard the good/bad and I’m told it all comes down to a good 
surveyor (if anyone knows a good surveyor with C knowledge please send them 
my way!) and I have to say I’m a bit apprehensive about a 30+ year old boat 
with cored hull and topsides. But I’m curious what others have to say about 
this topic or if there’s anything they might expand upon outside of what I’ve 
noted above.

Many thanks,
Chris

Chris Hobson, Owner
HobsonBuildsCo.com 
ch...@hobsonbuildsco.com 
416-436-1037




Building editable websites for small business one pixel at a time.

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