Re: Stus-List 1988 37R Diesel Tank Replacement Suggestions

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Not sure where you are but we purchased a s/s tank from Ballard Sheetmetal many 
years ago. They made it to our specs and are located in Ballard, WA.
Dave. 
SLY
1975 C 33


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 14, 2019, at 3:48 PM, Languid Refiner via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Everyone, 
> 
> Is a replacement fuel tank something I would get custom made (looking to get 
> one in stainless)? Are there standard sizes or somewhere to order one from? 
> 
> My 37R is equipped with the Universal M35. The tank was located below/behind 
> the galley sink, I think it was approximately 20 gallons.
> 
> On another note, any recommendations for searching through the archived 
> emails? Is there a way to do that or just look at them individually?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> Noah 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Re: Stus-List new haylards - now re-configuring halyards

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

In my experience headsail halyards are led on the port side and main on the 
starboard. On SLY we carry just three headsail halyards configured as one jib 
and two spinnaker. When changing jibs we use one of the spin halyards and back 
to the jib if we need to change headsails again. This all works for us. All 
three of these headsail halyards are led aft to brakes on the cabin house. 
Three brakes side by side. Left to right the port spinnaker halyard with red 
markers in the line, center is the all white jib halyard and to the right is 
the starboard spinnaker halyard with green markers in the line.
In my opinion if you move some of the headsail halyards to the starboard side 
you might confuse visiting crew members who are used to the more conventional 
set up.
Just my thoughts,
Dave.
SLY 1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 12, 2017, at 4:43 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  


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Re: Stus-List Hard paint vs. ablative

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Kyle,
Bottom paint is a funny thing. Different paints seem to do better in different 
areas. If you are talking about the other Washington, Pettit Trinidad SR has 
worked great for us in central Puget Sound. The bad thing about hard bottom 
paint is that after awhile you end up with a build up of too many layers and 
you have to remove it all and start over. Very difficult and messy job. The 
ablative paints ware off as you clean them and you end up with no build up.
As with most things, there isn't just one current answer.
Good luck,
Dave.
SLY
1975 C ss

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 13, 2017, at 10:51 AM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Congrats on the new boat. In Washington you cannot clean ablative paint. I 
> only use ablative paint. Although the racer friends use hard paint. A good 
> friend swears by petit Trinidad hard paint. I have used micron 66, blue water 
> copper shield both with excellent results. 
> Practical sailor has done several reviews on both types bottom paint. What I 
> like about the ablative paints is you don't need to clean the bottom if you 
> use your boat. 
> Another consideration is what is currently on it. You can put ablative over 
> hard paint but not hard over ablative. 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> Doug Mountjoy 
> POYC 
> Pegasus (sale pending) 
> Lf38 
> Rebecca Leah 
> LF39 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Kyle Davis via CnC-List 
> Date: 11/13/17 09:50 (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Kyle Davis 
> Subject: Stus-List Hard paint vs. ablative
> 
> Greetings all,
> New owner of C 26. My diver says I need new paint for sure. I’ve never 
> dealt with bottom paint before. I live in Washington, where the environmental 
> restrictions are extensive. Looking for guidance on the best paint. I read, 
> quite a few years ago, about hard and ablative. Based on that, I think I’m 
> leaning toward hard but all input is welcome.
> 
> Tentatively calling the boat Killian. It’s never been named and My first 
> grandson is named Killian.
> 
> Thanks,
> Kyle Davis
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List A-4

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Randy,
I live in Seattle and have been dealing with Moyer Marine for many years and 
the long distance relationship has not been an issue. I have purchased two A4's 
from them (one was a short block and the other a rebuild) and returned two core 
engines. I very much believe in these guys and I would suggest you call Don and 
ask him if he's interested and what arrangements can be made.
Good luck,
Dave.
SLY C 33
1975

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 13, 2017, at 9:09 AM, randy via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Danny, and that was my suggestion to them as well.  Am hoping to offer 
> them something in lieu of east coast!
>  
>  
> randy
> Tamanawas
> 29-II
> Hood River, OR
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
> Haughey via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, November 13, 2017 8:31 AM
> To: randy via CnC-List 
> Cc: Danny Haughey 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List A-4
>  
> Hi Randy,
> 
> the engine has some value.  Without knowing it's condition, you could 
> probably get a few  hundred for it from someone wanting a spare and the 
> motivation to rebuild it.  I'm sure Moyer marine would love to have it but 
> they'd probably not offer much more than to pay for shipping to take it off 
> your hands.
> 
> You could head over the Moyer marine forums and get better info from that 
> group.
> 
> http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/index.php
> 
> Danny
> 
> 
> On 11/13/2017 10:59 AM, randy via CnC-List wrote:
> Greetings All, a friend is settling a family estate of a sailor.  Friend and 
> family know nothing about sailboats.  Boat has an older Yanmar 2GM installed 
> sometime in last seven years, and the original A-4 is at the house.  From 
> outside it is in much better condition than expected, but no one has any idea 
> of inside.  Any suggestions on value and/or getting the word out?  Motor is 
> located in Portland, OR, and neither Portland or Seattle craigslist have much 
> to offer.
>  
> TIA,
>  
> randy
> Tamanawas
> 29-II
> Hood River, OR
>  
>  
> 
> 
> 
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>  
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>  
>  
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Supporting Stu

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

I just made a small contribution. This is my first because I have no 
understanding about what costs are associated with this service so it has been 
hard for me to determine what amount would be appropriate. Maybe a ballpark 
figure about Stu's expenses and/or a suggested contribution amount would be 
helpful to some.
Dave. Kaseler
SLY
1975 C 33


Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 27, 2017, at 11:09 AM, John via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> You know, when I first joined. I made a contribution, and I have always 
> wondered why it was not acknowledged. This list is a great gift and we should 
> all support it, but an email should be sent out saying gift received. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Sep 27, 2017, at 1:58 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Ditto!
>> 
>> Please help Stu maintain the list.  The benefit you receive will far 
>> outweigh your contribution.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>>> On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 12:21 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> I just happened to notice this text at the bottom of the last post on the 
>>> list:
>>> 
 The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. 
  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
 contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send 
 contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>>> I urge everyone who has benefitted from this list (I think that’s probably 
>>> everyone reading this…) to click on the link and send Stu some money.  Many 
>>> years ago, when SailNet decided to end their brand-specific email lists, 
>>> Stu picked up the baton and set up this amazing resource out of both the 
>>> goodness of his heart, and his own pocket.  Maybe there was a bit of 
>>> masochism, involved, too…   But in any case, he needs and deserves our 
>>> financial support to help him continue to provide this service.
>>> 
>>> So pony up; I just did.
>>> 
>>> — Fred
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
>> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
>> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send 
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Dave,
I have to confess that I rebed my original hatch to stop a leak and ended up 
through bolting it and used acorn nuts. Wish I hadn't. Looks bad and I do keep 
hitting my head. Wish I knew of butyl tape when I did the job.
Dave. Kaseler
SLY
1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 26, 2017, at 2:17 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and 
> experiences here.
> 
> I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and 
> am now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle 
> hatch that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The 
> original hatch used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a 
> dope…) #14 stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No 
> through-bolting. Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus 
> years
> 
> The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws 
> and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my 
> overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the 
> v-berth.
> 
> So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done?
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
> 
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List GPS, Chart Plodders and Technology when there is none

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Jack I agree with all you say.
Dave.
1975 C 33
SLY

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 18, 2017, at 8:33 AM, jackbrennan via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Of course, the caveat to all of this is that,  depending on where you sail, 
> even up-to-date charts can be anywhere from mildly off to wildly and 
> dangerously inaccurate.
> 
> In the Keys and South and West Florida, where sand shifts all of the time, 
> TowboatUS and Seatow do a fine business from boaters blindly following their 
> chartplotters. Many inlets and channels in West Florida have nasty, uncharted 
> sandbars.
> 
> After Irma, forget about it. Who knows what's where? You could go aground on 
> a sunken boat.
> 
> Depth sounders and the ability to read water are more valuable navigation 
> tools in places like this. I like paper charts because you get a bigger view. 
> A GPS is wonderful for confirming that you are where you think you are. 
> 
> Still, I get the allure of all that gear. I crewed on a friend's catamaran to 
> Fantasy Fest in Key West last fall. His electronics were several times more 
> valuable than many of our boats.
> 
> I felt like I was on the con of the Starship Enterprise. Especially when we 
> hit warp speed (10+ knots). The only thing the electronics couldn't do was 
> spot crab pots at night. :)
> 
> Jack Brennan
> Former C 25
> Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> Date:09/18/2017 10:14 AM (GMT-05:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Frederick G Street 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List GPS, Chart Plodders and Technology when there is none 
> 
> 
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List GPS, Chart Plodders and Technology when there is none

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Chris,
Wow. Things can get pretty complicated. 
We have been sailing around Puget Sound including the Georgia Strait for 40 
years. We have a small Garmin GPS below at the nav station. The important 
navigation tools for us are my paper charts, parallel rules, dividers, a 
plastic speed distance time calculator (I forget what they call it), depth 
sounder and compass. We have a knot meter but are more apt to rely on the GPS 
for speed because of the strong currents in our area. We also have an old hand 
held GPS which we mount on a bracket on the stern pulpit which we got from a 
bike store but we hardly ever use it. 
If there is heavy fog we try to stay in port but if we get caught out we stay 
far from shipping lanes, and rely heavily on depth sounding contours, listen 
for fog horns and sound ours. 
Sure it would be nice to have radar and all the rest but these are not in our 
budget and provide unwarranted confidence and encourage one to go out when it 
would be prudent to stay in port.
Just my thoughts. This works for us.
Dave. Kaseler
1975 C 33 
SLY


Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 16, 2017, at 6:29 PM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> We’re in Vancouver BC, Georgia Straight can get foggy, tides come and go and 
> we’re new at this. We have no GPS on our new to us 1981 C 30 and very 
> little in the way of navigation other than dead reckoning, basic familiarity 
> with the area and a compass at the helm. It’s fun because it’s like we just 
> purchased a 1981 C and technology isn’t around yet. However every sail is a 
> guessing game and I’d like to hear what others use for costal navigation. 
> Whether it’s real tangible maps, a GPS system you swear by or an iPad with 
> some software curious to hear what other C owners use to get find their way.
> 
> Chris Hobson
> S/V Going
> 1980 C MKI
> Hull 615
> 
> 
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> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Lots of folks have been talking about fuel tank fill and advising a 90 degree 
intake for simpler hose attachment. 
SLY has two fuel tanks, one plastic under the cockpit where the original 
aluminum one was with a straight vertical intake hose connection, plus another 
stainless tank forward under the settee on the starboard side where the settee 
forms an L next to the stove.  This one has a 90 degree intake configuration.
If I need to remove fuel from the after tank it is easy to temporarily remove 
the filler hose from the tank, lead a siphon hose down from the deck fitting 
into the tank and reconnect the filler hose. I'm unable to get the siphon hose 
past the flange on the plastic tank without temporarily removing the filler 
hose but that's not a big deal. 
If I need to remove fuel from the forward tank with the 90 degree intake it 
becomes much more difficult. The siphon hose does not want to go around the 
corner formed by the 90 degree intake. I'm able to force it around the corner 
but it always scrapes some the rubber from the siphon hose and deposits it into 
the tank. So far this has not caused a problem but it sure could if these 
scrapings were sucked up into the pickup tube.
So, something else to think about.
Regards, 
Dave. Kaseler
SLY 1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 10, 2017, at 12:03 PM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I just measured my fuel tank.27" wide, 16" deep, 12" height+7" top 
> clearance to the cockpit solenot the easiest to access to remove it but 
> doable with some four letter words and beers.   Need to ensure the in fill on 
> the tank has a 90 deg. intake to make connecting the in hose easy, maybe 
> simply doable!
> 
> I like the idea of the Moeller tanks that are transparent.not just to 
> determine the fuel level but possibly seeing anything in the tank.  Someone 
> here , maybe Dennis, earlier gave me a Moeller 19 gallon part #.   The hunt 
> is now on.
> 
> The position Bill is in now is just the position I stated the other day I did 
> not want to be inreplaced the fuel tank because it is now, or near now, 
> that the tank will need to be replaced.
> 
> Good luck to you Billlet us know how you fair out.what tank you 
> acquire.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> 
>> On 2017-09-10 9:40 AM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:
>> 
>> All this talk about leaking tanks caused mine to spring a leak on 
>> Fridayreally.
>> Wish the access on my 36 was as good as others seem to have. Espar furnace 
>> and refrigeration complicate things for me.Dei
>> Dennis, what tank do you recommend?  Good website for fitting install in 
>> plastic?  Or do the come ready to go?
>> Bill Walker CnC 36
>> Penteater, Mi
>> 
>> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 1980 C 30 MKI - DIY Lifelines

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

We replaced our life lines some years ago. What I remember is that it was not 
that hard. My wife says we got the parts from West Marine but I think we got 
them from somewhere else. In any case you need a good tool to cut the wire and 
a good tool for nicro pressing. And careful measuring.
Dave. Kaseler
1975 C 33
SLY





Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 31, 2017, at 7:47 AM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The surveyor when I bought the boat said I could replace the standing rigging 
> myself one wire at a time. Of course I had a lot of gusto when I first 
> purchased her and balls to hoist atop and unclip 37 year old standing 
> rigging. Today I have the phone number of a rigger who was recommended to 
> inspect my original rig and lifelines, expecting a hefty price tag I am keen 
> on the idea of at least doing the lifelines myself. Digging around I found 
> these hand-crimping lifeline fittings from Bosun 
> http://www.bosunsupplies.com/Lifeline-Fittings-Hand-Crimp/ anyone had any 
> experience replacing their lifelines and any lessons they could pass on? I’m 
> sure having the rigging replaced could mean a deal on the lifelines, but 
> wanted to explore my options.
> 
> Chris Hobson
> S/V Going
> 1980 C MKI
> Hull 615
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Big Boat on my property C 33 mk1

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Joe,
The original 33s are great boats we still have ours and love her. For us, she 
both cruises and races well. Old IOR design creates some challenges with the 
spinnaker in a blow but you can learn to deal with that. From our prospective 
she is the right size for a couple.
Hope you find a buyer. If she still has her Atomic 4 gas engine many potential 
buyers may see that as a negative but we just replaced our old Atomic 4 with a 
rebuilt one from Moyer Marine. Don Moyer is the man for these engines and has a 
great website where he sells endless parts, a complete repair and rebuild 
manual and rebuilt engines with new heads and manifolds and if you want to pay 
a bit more he even sells "rebuilt" engines with new blocks. 
Good luck on finding a buyer.
Regards,
Dave. Kaseler
1975 C 33
SLY

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 30, 2017, at 10:17 AM, Joseph Kramer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Like many dreams in life they come and then fade.
> "Benefit" was the dream come true for me. "Risk" our first boat adventure did 
> result in a benefit that still lasts, which is the reality of life together 
> with my wife.
> So I have this fading dream boat that is fading as fast as I am.
> The issue is I have this boat on jack stands on my property in the middle of 
> Chatham county NC.
> I am seeking advice...
> This is a project boat.
> Like many dreams sometimes there are others that have that same delusional 
> dream. But, not really very many people have this dream for this 33ft aging 
> beauty. 
> I am seeking advice on the best way as quickly as possible,..remove this 
> fading classic...
> Any dreamers???
> OK how about pragmatists. 
> thanks
> Joe
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

I agree with Marek except for his comments about windsurfing. I have only tried 
windsurfing once and failed but if I were to start this sailing thing over 
again I would start in a dinghy, then spend some time on a windsurfer to help 
me learn to steer with my sails and angle of heal, so to learn to minimize the 
use of the dreaded break. Some call this the rudder. The less you use your 
rudder the faster you go. This all translates to big boats but is much easier 
to feel in a dinghy. My wife, the sailing coach, has her high school team 
members sail in practice with the rudder removed. With some practice, they do 
fine.
Dave.
1975 C 33
SLY

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 30, 2017, at 8:01 AM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am not recommending learning on a sailboard but it teaches you how to 
> adjust a sail.  Only on a sailboard do you feel the pressure of the wind on a 
> sail and how you have to adjust for the direction of the wind.  Like I said 
> before, I have sailed large and small and enjoyed them all.  What a thrill it 
> would be to steer a large ship.
> 
> Frank
> 
> 
> On Wednesday, August 30, 2017 5:23 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Actually, I don't find windsurfing as a learning tool for sailing.  Totally 
> different technique. It is like snowboarding and skiing- both are done on 
> snow, but one skill does not translate to the other. 
> 
> Dinghy, on the other hand, will teach you a lot. Some older people  (and I 
> don't mean old) may find them uncomfortable or challenging, but you can learn 
> much easier the basic techniques of sail trimming and general sailing. 
> 
> Of course, this would not help with big boat handling. You need to learn how 
> to dock, moor, anchor, do a MOB, stop, or what a prop walk is. Even the 
> proper technique of hoisting sails. That you need to learn on a big (bigger?) 
> boat. 
> 
> Marek 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: John Irvin via CnC-List 
> Date: 8/29/17 21:44 (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: John Irvin 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat
> 
> Very good points. Windsurfing will substitute nicely for mall boat sailing.
> 
> sailing schools that I have heard of start novices out in Catalina/Capri 21's 
> or J24's.
>> 
>> Neil
>> Foxfire C 32
>> Rock Hall, MD
>> 
>> Neil Andersen
>> 20691 Jamieson Rd
>> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>>   
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List clogged refrigerator drain

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Have you tried a toilet plunger. These old fashioned tools create a lot of 
suction if there is some standing water in the icebox. Worked for me.
Dave.
SLY
1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 2, 2017, at 4:08 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The hose ends under the sink. Not easy to find or clean. Start with dish soap 
> and a plunger. 
> 
> Joel 
> 
>> On Wed, Aug 2, 2017 at 12:35 AM Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I would try to clear it with a "shop-vac" from the ice box side of things. 
>> You will probably need to neck down the vac hose to be effective.
>> 
>> The idea being that something went down to clog the hose FROM this opening.
>> 
>> Cheers, Russ
>> Sweet 35 mk-1
>> 
>> At 09:23 PM 01/08/2017, you wrote:
>>> Another question. My refrigerator drain is clogged and it doesn’t seem to 
>>> be a simple hose connection. There seems to be something under the 
>>> refrigerator drain before the hose, but I can’t see how to get to it 
>>> without pulling apart the boat. This is on a 35 Mk3 My favorite way to 
>>> clear clogs these days is a steal cable casing in a drill but I don’t 
>>> think that will work here. There seems to be a pan/plate blocking access 
>>> from the refrigerator end. I will likely try to go the other way from the 
>>> end of the hose that dumps under the sink into the bilge. Still, I would 
>>> like to know what’s going on under the drain. Anyone have any experience 
>>> with this? Thanks in advance. Matthew Schlanger The Office C 35 Mk3 
>>> Nyack, NY ___ This list is 
>>> supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a 
>>> contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> ___
>> 
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>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Update to Broken Mast

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

I never lost possession of the boat and nothing was stripped.
Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 14, 2017, at 9:13 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I’ve heard this as well — except usually the insurance company sells it to a 
> salvage company first, who then strips out anything of value to sell 
> separately. What you buy back will be without winches, electronics, sails, 
> etc. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jul 14, 2017, at 11:37 AM, David via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I have heard anecdotally that you can have her totaled and buy her back from 
>> the insurance company at cents on the dollar?
>> 
>> 
>> From: CnC-List  on behalf of schiller via 
>> CnC-List 
>> Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2017 10:32 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: schiller
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Update to Broken Mast
>>  
>> I'll keep that in mind but in the 22 years that we have had Corsair we have 
>> completely rewired her, repowered with a Universal M-25XPB engine (132 
>> hours), Roller Furling, new cushions, refrigeration, wheel pilot, ST60 
>> instrumentation, second battery bank.
>> 
>> If they can fix her, we'll keep her.
>> 
>> Neil Schiller
>> 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
>> (C 35, Mark I)
>> 
>> 
>>> On 7/13/2017 5:53 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote:
>>> 
 Why bother unless you have a new diesel.   You can buy a replacement in 
 good condition for half that.  
 Jerry 
 http://m.sailboatlistings.com/view/65970
 C 35 MK II sailboat for sale in Michigan
 m.sailboatlistings.com
 35' C 35 MK II sailboat for sale in St Clair Shores MI - Jefferson Beach 
 Marina Michigan
 35' C 35 MK II 
 
 Year   
Length   
 35 Beam   
 11 Draft   
 5'6Asking 
 $14,000  
 
 Description:
 Located in St Clair Shores MI - Jefferson Beach Marina Michigan 
 This Coast Guard documented vessel is in great condition, and priced to 
 sell. The owners, past and present have take really good care of it. The 
 interior cushions are new and the engine and sails are in good condition 
 as well. It has two and a half births. One is closed off and private. If 
 you need more photo's or would like to come out to see it, just let me 
 know.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
> On Jul 13, 2017, at 4:55 PM, schiller via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Corsair is out of the water and safely on her cradle.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Subject: Re: Broke my boat

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Some years ago I too had a problem involving a mast. We were in a collision 
with a Hans Christian or similar boat with a bow sprit. The other boat's 
bobstay rode up on our toe rail and her bow sprit punched our mast leaving a 
dent. We were unable to find a replacement spar that was affordable and the 
insurance company declared the boat a total loss. Almost all of the damage was 
to the mast but the cost of the replacement was more than the insured value of 
the hull. At the end of the day we became convinced that we could still sail 
with the dent as long as we were staying in protected waters so we kept the 
totaled boat, I filled the dent with aluminum filled epoxy, painted it and here 
we are still sailing. 
The moral of all this is to be sure to carry adequate insurance valuation on 
your boat to cover a replacement mast plus some for additional expenses in case 
you have some additional damage when you lose the rig. It's not that uncommon 
an occurrence in these older boats.
Just my two cents,
Dave. Kaseler
1975 C 33
SLY
Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 10, 2017, at 2:20 PM, Dave S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with Doug, the boat itself is quite repairable, an advantage of the 
> older boats.  I would have a very good look at the other side as well.  
> There's a lot you could do, - fairly simply - to improve the strength in this 
> area. 
> Where was the Redwing made? Reminds me of a Corvette I looked at. 
> Good luck with the insurance company.
> Key will -I think - be finding a spar for a reasonable price.  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Doug Allardyce 
> To: 
> Cc: 
> Bcc: 
> Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2017 10:29:58 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Broke my boat
> Neil, Sorry to hear about your disaster. Clearly one of every sailors worst 
> nightmares. I can only imagine what you and your crew went through. On the 
> bright side, no one was injured.
> After looking at your pictures I was surprised that the damage to the boat 
> wasn't more extensive. The shroud came out fairly clean so the damage to the 
> deck wall ugly is very repairable. The bulkhead will take a little more work, 
> but also very repairable. I would replace about 18" of the bulkhead from 
> outboard or until you get into good wood. Glass it in and add a large 
> aluminum plate on the back side, and it will be stronger than new. It may not 
> look like a new boat on the inside, but it will be stronger. If the insurance 
> will cover the majority of the cost, its always nice to have a bran new 
> Offshore rig with new shrouds you can trust.
>  
> Good luck my friend.  The Redwing 35 is a classic. We still have many active 
> 35's in the Detroit racing circuit.
>  
> Doug Allardyce
> C 35 III
> BULLET
> ~_/)_/)
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of schiller 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2017 7:33 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: schiller
> Subject: Stus-List Broke my boat
> 
> We were dis masted yesterday just off shore from Muskegon, Michigan 
> yesterday.  The starboard chain plate bulkhead failed and the chain plate 
> pulled out through the deck.  The mast snapped at the spreaders and fell off 
> to the leeward side.
> 
> We were in the starting stages of the Jolly Roger Shoreline race.  The 
> conditions changed from about 11-12 kts (true) to 14-15 kts when the chain 
> plate failed.  Waves were about 3 feet.  We had been on a beam reach doing 
> 7.0-7.2 kts and hardened up to closehauled to see if we were going to be able 
> to point to the turning mark when it failed.  We had about twenty seconds 
> between hearing the pop and having the chain plate fly out of the deck with 
> the mast failed.  Luckily, all were in the cockpit at failure.  I was just 
> starting out to crash drop sails from the first pop and seeing the slack 
> leeward shroud.  The helmsman had just started turning into the wind.
> 
> After about an hour, we were able to get the main off and stowed and get the 
> jib on deck with the mast lashed to the bow pulpit.  Took the boat back in to 
> Muskegon to Torresen Marine and left it in their haulout well until Monday 
> when they can start assessing it.
> 
> It will come down to economics to see if the hull value will support a new 
> mast and structural repairs necessary.
> 
> The starboard chain plate had leaked in the past and I had glassed in the 
> bulkhead and added a backing plate when I bought her (22 years ago) but the 
> wood in the area does not look good.
> 
> I will keep the list updated with how things pan out.
> 
> Neil Schiller
> 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
> (C 35, Mark I)
> "Corsair"
> White Lake, Michigan
> (Now residing in Muskegon for the time being)
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> 

Re: Stus-List 25MKII, Tiller Length

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

And of course, we have an adjustable tiller extension so she can sit on the 
rail.
Dave

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 10, 2017, at 1:46 PM, David Kaseler via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi. Good plan. 
> My guess is the Anytiller guys know the original specks. Did you ask? We, on 
> our 33 mark 1 bought a longer stock tiller (from West Marine I think) so the 
> skipper could sit up against the bulkhead. Works really good, especially in 
> racing situations. Crew working lines behind the skipper gives skipper a 
> clear view during maneuvering situations. 
> 
> Dave Kaseler
> SLY
> 1975 C 33
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Jul 10, 2017, at 9:49 AM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 25MKII owners, what is your tiller length and shape 
>> http://anytiller.com/
>> 
>> I'm going to refit our Edson pedestal with the original tiller.
>> 
>> Bill Dakin
>> S/V Tapestry
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List 25MKII, Tiller Length

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Hi. Good plan. 
My guess is the Anytiller guys know the original specks. Did you ask? We, on 
our 33 mark 1 bought a longer stock tiller (from West Marine I think) so the 
skipper could sit up against the bulkhead. Works really good, especially in 
racing situations. Crew working lines behind the skipper gives skipper a clear 
view during maneuvering situations. 

Dave Kaseler
SLY
1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 10, 2017, at 9:49 AM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 25MKII owners, what is your tiller length and shape 
> http://anytiller.com/
> 
> I'm going to refit our Edson pedestal with the original tiller.
> 
> Bill Dakin
> S/V Tapestry
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Stuffing Box on 1986 C 33 mk2

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Someone with more knowledge than I should help you with this but you should 
understand that traditional stuffing boxes are designed to leak. The water 
keeps the unit lubricated and cool. I now have what they call a dripless 
stuffing box which is a completely different design to accomplish the same 
thing. As I remember my traditional stuffing box dripped about like yours when 
the shaft was turning but not when it was not.
Dave.
1975 C 33 SLY

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 27, 2017, at 7:22 PM, Brett Robertson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello and thanks for taking the time to read and respond.  I’m a new owner of 
> a 1986 C 33 mk2.  My stuffing box is leaking/dripping.  I’d say a drip 
> every 3 seconds.  I’m going to try and see if I can tighten it, but I briefly 
> tried and it was very difficult…maybe due to corrosion.   Plan is to try 
> again after some PB Blaster or other compound to assist in loosening.  I 
> don’t know when the stuffing was replaced previously.
> 
> Looking for some help in selecting the correct stuffing/packing size.  I 
> believe you select the diameter of the packing material according to the 
> shaft size???
> 
> Many thanks for the help, any suggestions would be appreciated.
> 
> Brett Robertson
> Oshkosh, WI
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Chart plotter mount for boat with a tiller

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

I need to put in my two cents. Many years ago we had a Newport 27 with a depth 
sounder mounted on a hinged arm. The mount was inside the cabin but could be 
swung out so the display was in the center of the companionway. Because the 
unit was mounted on a plate that swiveled it could be viewed from below or from 
the cockpit. This unit was custom made by the prior owner but I have seen 
similar units available commercially. In this case the wiring was just lead 
along the arm and was always secure no matter what the position of the depth 
finder. The only draw back was that you had to swing the unit out of the way to 
go up or down the ladder. If I were in your situation now I would use this 
solution. Actually, I have given it some thought for my small chart plotter/GPS 
but I'm so addicted to paper charts that I seldom use the electronic except as 
a backup.
Dave.
C 33 SLY
PS I just saw Dennis C and Mathew's responses which puts my thoughts in one 
short sentence.
Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 27, 2017, at 4:24 PM, Matthew Maynard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> This was our choice for mount located to swing in the companion way and able 
> to swing to the nav station when below
>  
> Matthew
> Claymore 32
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: June-27-17 7:07 PM
> To: CnClist
> Cc: Dennis C.
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Chart plotter mount for boat with a tiller
>  
> I've seen a few mounted in the companionway with a RAM bracket like this:
>  
> http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-109VU
>  
> Dennis C.
>  
> 
>   Virus-free. www.avast.com
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Fuel conditioners

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

I use Marvel Mystery Oil in the gasoline for my Atomic 4 engine as advised by 
Don Moyer of Moyer Marine. These guys are the authority for all things Atomic 
4. I also use it in my two air cooled VWs. I think it helps keep the interior 
parts properly lubricated. You should be able to find this product in any 
hardware or auto parts store. I bought my last jug from ACE Hardware. I'm not 
sure about diesel. If that tank has been full for 14 years, I would certainly 
have the tank professionally cleaned. Probably all three.
Dave. K
SLY C 33 1975

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 18, 2017, at 9:54 AM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi all, 
> My new (to me) boat has water in all 3 fuel tanks. And one tank hasn't been 
> used in 14 years, but is full, or mostly so. 
> An old salt told me that in the old days they swore by Marvel Mystery oil. 
> Has anyone heard of this? . I have used Soltron in the past with good 
> results. Trying to figure the best (easiest and cheapest) way to clean this 
> tank. There is a clean out on it.  
> May question is would I be better off hiring a company to come and polish the 
> fuel or try and do it myself?  
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> Doug Mountjoy 
> POYC 
> Pegasus 
> Lf38 
> Significant Other 
> LF39
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 on mast clam cleats - are they still available?

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Open V-cleats? Ok, I just call them jam cleats. In any case, I would hesitate 
to use them for a halyard application unless it was for a temporary application 
as Dennis C. suggests. Having said that I use them for my headsail sheets and 
like them very much. We have no conventional cleats in SLY's cockpit, just 
these jam cleats mounted on angled brackets at all 4 of the cockpit winches. It 
is so easy to drop the sheets into these and release the sheets from these when 
tacking and while making small adjusts to any of the headsails including the 
spinnaker. SLY came to us with this arrangement many years ago. Great for 
racing.
Dave.
SLY
1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 18, 2017, at 6:16 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Those, or a similar version should be available from Ronstan, Camcleat, 
> Selden and others.  They are called open V-cleats.  
> 
> http://www.mauripro.com/us/product/SEL432010R.html
> 
> However, I need to ask exactly what you intend to do with it.  If you are 
> going to permanently cleat the halyard I'd consider a rope clutch instead.  
> If you are looking to temporarily cleat a spinnaker halyard after hoisting 
> until the pit person can tidy up and take up slack in the tail, then I'd 
> recommend a spinnaker halyard parking cleat.  The bracket can be found here:
> 
> http://www.apsltd.com/spinnaker-halyard-parking-bracket.html
> 
> Mount a Harken 150 aluminum cam cleat in it.  I have one on Touche' and it 
> works pretty slick.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Sun, Jun 18, 2017 at 6:58 AM, Dave S via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Looking to have one of my wing halyards terminate or at least be cleat-able 
>> at the mast, and would like to match the existing hardware.
>> Does anyone know who made these and whether they are still available?  
>> 
>> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2017/06/who-made-these-cleats.html
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Battery compartment and battery boxes. SS straps?

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Big reason for a battery box is to protect against accidental shorting if the 
terminals.
Dave.
1975 C 33
SLY

Sent from my iPad

> On May 20, 2017, at 1:25 PM, john sandford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I like the ratchet strap idea.
> Mine are gel, no box, and the crummy plastic CTyre strap.
> Does anyone know where to get ratchet straps, in general, with SS hardware ?
> Batteries, Dingy to dock, float removal and securing, etc. many more 
> applications.
> Thanks for any guidance.
> John
> LF38
>  
>  
> From: Josh Muckley [mailto:muckl...@gmail.com] 
> Sent: May-20-17 1:16 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery compartment and battery boxes
>  
> I bought kayak straps. 
>  
> NRS 1in Heavy-Duty Buckle Bumper Strap Blue, 9ft 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAI9N7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KFgizbD89HKG1
>  
> But you could use ratchet straps too.
>  
> Mann Ratchet Tie Downs Straps with S-hooks 1-Inch x 15-Feet 500 Lbs Load Cap 
> - 1500 Lb Break Strength 2-Pack Set 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AIWGB4I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jIgizbDPS31AR
>  
> I wanted to avoid putting anchor screws in the lower part of my compartment.  
> Seems kinda counter productive to epoxy in a box for leak tightness only to 
> then put holes in it for fasteners.  I bent some flat aluminum bar stock so 
> that it follows the contours of the inside of the battery compartment.  The 
> bars are held in place at the top of the compartment.  My straps are fed 
> perpendicular under the bars and the batteries sit on top of both.  The 
> straps wrap across the top of the batteries and meet on the side.
>  
> The load requirements are side to side movement of less than an inch and 
> mounts which can hold 90lbs.
>  
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>  
>  
> 
> On Sat, May 20, 2017, 10:02 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Hi Josh- Thanks for the advice.  If water is getting to my compartment then I 
> have serious problems well beyond the batteries.  Can you clarify what kind 
> of ratcheting strap you use?  I don’t think much of the plastic clamp strap 
> that came with the boat.  Thanks- Dave
>  
> On May 19, 2017, at 11:17 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>  
> ABYC is a little vague with the battery box requiments.  In summery it 
> describes keeping the batteries sufficiently mounted to prevent sliding 
> around.  It describes a cover to prevent inadvertent contact with the 
> terminals.  If you use a ratchet strap and insulated terminal covers then you 
> technically meet the requirements.
>  
> Commercially available plastic battery boxes provide a means of restraint and 
> insulation of the terminals.  Properly made and used, the battery boxes also 
> provide a means of catching acid if it were to leak out.  The lids are 
> designed to maintain a loop seal which prevents water from getting in the box 
> should a flooding situation submerge the box.  Sea water and batteries is a 
> bad combination which can, not just short out and destroy the battery, but 
> also generate chlorine gas.
>  
> I don't have commercial battery boxes in either of my battery compartments.  
> The batteries are strapped down.  The compartments are glassed in to provide 
> leak resistance.  The compartments have wooden lids which prevent inadvertent 
> contact with the terminals.
>  
> I think you are ok removing the plastic boxes.
>  
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>  
>  
>  
> On May 18, 2017 12:07 PM, "David Knecht via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> I have finished my rewiring project and everything seems to be working fine.  
> I ended up putting a Blue Sea Si-ACR to control charging inside the battery 
> compartment as I could find no other accessible space for it.  It is not 
> pretty crowded inside that area with wires, two batteries, and the ACR.  The 
> compartment is a solid bottom fiberglass area with a wood top panel for 
> access and a strap that goes through slots on the bottom of the compartment.  
> The batteries are sealed AGM.  I am considering removing the two battery 
> boxes that the batteries sit inside of inside the compartment as they seem 
> redundant to me with sealed batteries.  I can strap down the batteries 
> instead of strapping down the battery boxes.  This will give me a bit more 
> room and flexibility in the compartment.  Is there any safety reason I should 
> not do this?  Thanks- Dave
>  
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> Error! Filename not specified.
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our 

Re: Stus-List Sail advice - 1, 2 , 3 go

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

And as our hero Paul Elvstrom famously said, "You haven't won the race, if in 
winning the race you have lost the respect of your competitors."
Dave.
SLY 1975 C 33


Sent from my iPad

> On May 4, 2017, at 8:56 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> And we were talking last night about a club racer with a C 36 a few years 
> ago who literally gutted the interior of his boat to get a trophy – damn 
> expensive trophy…..
>  
> Gary
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della 
> Barba, Joe via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, May 4, 2017 11:33 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice - 1, 2 , 3 go
>  
> It depends on if you view sailing as a Corinthian sport or a NASCAR type 
> sport.
> One team famously got caught making 7/8s scale cars, more than one got onto 
> using fuel lines that were hugely bigger than needed, line an inch or two or 
> three, to actually function as long fuel tanks.
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Harry 
> Hallgring Jr via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, May 4, 2017 11:29 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Harry Hallgring Jr <hhallgr...@icloud.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice - 1, 2 , 3 go
>  
> Go Pats!!!
> 
> Harry
> Sent from my iPhone 8 beta
> 
> On May 4, 2017, at 11:10, David Kaseler via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Kind of like under inflating footballs just a little.
> Dave.
> SLY 1975 C 33
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On May 3, 2017, at 7:56 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> No problem.  Hack saw, bosun chair and poof!  Shorter spreaders.  :)
>  
> Seriously, could be a very subtle cheat for one design or PHRF.  The 35-1 
> class bylaws specify 3' 10.5" for spreader length.  Who would notice a couple 
> inches whacked off?
>  
> Dennis C.
>  
> On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 9:40 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I really hate to be a nay sayer about anything in Sail magazine, but the last 
> racing headsail I had made (a deck sweeper carbon fiber 155) was designed to 
> be trimmed 4-6” off the upper spreader when hard on the wind – and the sail 
> maker set the nominal sheet leads for 11 degrees sheeting angle.
>  
> The process shown in the article (7 degrees for a 150 and 10 degrees for an 
> 85) is fine for determining the forward and aft positions of the ends of the 
> genoa track, and hence the track length. But your sailmaker will probably 
> have a specific placement for the genoa car within that length of track 
> depending on the shape of the sail and the width of your rig – among other 
> things.
>  
>  
> Rick Brass
> Imzadi  C 38 mk 2
> la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2017 11:49 AM
> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: RANDY <randy.staff...@comcast.net>; cnc-list <CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice - 1, 2 , 3 go
>  
> And I'll be measuring and setting sheeting angles a la 
> http://www.sailmagazine.com/racing/regattas/headsail-sheeting/ once I get the 
> time.
>  
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>  
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Sail advice - 1, 2 , 3 go

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Kind of like under inflating footballs just a little.
Dave.
SLY 1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On May 3, 2017, at 7:56 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> No problem.  Hack saw, bosun chair and poof!  Shorter spreaders.  :)
> 
> Seriously, could be a very subtle cheat for one design or PHRF.  The 35-1 
> class bylaws specify 3' 10.5" for spreader length.  Who would notice a couple 
> inches whacked off?
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
>> On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 9:40 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I really hate to be a nay sayer about anything in Sail magazine, but the 
>> last racing headsail I had made (a deck sweeper carbon fiber 155) was 
>> designed to be trimmed 4-6” off the upper spreader when hard on the wind – 
>> and the sail maker set the nominal sheet leads for 11 degrees sheeting angle.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> The process shown in the article (7 degrees for a 150 and 10 degrees for an 
>> 85) is fine for determining the forward and aft positions of the ends of the 
>> genoa track, and hence the track length. But your sailmaker will probably 
>> have a specific placement for the genoa car within that length of track 
>> depending on the shape of the sail and the width of your rig – among other 
>> things.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Rick Brass
>> 
>> Imzadi  C 38 mk 2
>> 
>> la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1
>> 
>> Washington, NC
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2017 11:49 AM
>> To: cnc-list 
>> Cc: RANDY ; cnc-list 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice - 1, 2 , 3 go
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> And I'll be measuring and setting sheeting angles a la 
>> http://www.sailmagazine.com/racing/regattas/headsail-sheeting/ once I get 
>> the time.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> 
>> Randy Stafford
>> 
>> S/V Grenadine
>> 
>> C 30-1 #7
>> 
>> Ken Caryl, CO
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Lazy Jack advice

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

I'm no expert as I have no lazy jacks and have never used them but my concern 
would be the potential of putting extra stress on the spreaders causing them to 
become misaligned. 
Dave. Kaseler
SLY, 1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 19, 2017, at 9:54 AM, Eric Frank via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List Post question on CnC discussion list

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Tom.
I'm no rigger but I too have a C 33-1. Also, ours is not the original mast so 
things are different and I do suggest you discuss this issue with a 
professional rigger. I believe the spreader should be angled up as you see on 
yours. The trick is to direct the load evenly from the shroud so there is no 
tendency for the spreader tip to move up or down or for it to buckle under 
load, and there is a lot of load. The reason the end needs to angled up is 
because the angle of the shroud above the spreader is smaller than that below 
the spreader. 
Dave.
SLY C 33-1

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 15, 2017, at 11:30 AM, tom via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Stu,
> Can the following be posted on the CnC List?
> 
> Mast, Turnbuckles and Spreader for C 33-1
> Hi Everyone,
> Having my mast down this season for rigging check and LED lights and wiring 
> replacement the rod seems to be original as well as the turnbuckles and I 
> have been advised to replace and not just re-head. While this is under 
> consideration awaiting estimate, the spreaders come in to question. Showing a 
> bit of looseness and shake (that might have been somewhat lessened by 
> tightening the holding screws) when removed showed some bending and slight 
> malformation of the spreader housing where it attaches to the mast fitting. 
> What is questionable is there is a noticeable angle (10 degrees or so) at the 
> edge of both  spreaders where they attach to the mast fitting that would give 
> the spreaders an upward bias. 
> My question: is this angle along the length of the spreader supposed to be 
> there or is the spreader supposed to be straight? If it is supposed to be 
> straight is reforming ok to do or do they need replacement?
> Thanks much. Any help is appreciated, ,
> Tom Oryniak
> Carry On C 33-1
> Raritan Bay NJ
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Kids entertainment

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Kevin,
Not sure if I'm off the mark here but when our kids were young the best 
entertainment on rainy days or long passages was a big box of LEGOS.  When 
sailing we built boats to tow behind and when at anchor we sailed and rowed in 
our dinghy, played on the beach, hiked and explored ashore and if no brake in 
the rain all hands pitched in to prepare a special meal. At that time we had no 
electronic gadgets, so I have no advise about that. 
I can tell you that my grandchildren, now 9 and 3 are pretty much following the 
same program when they cruise with their parents but I'm sure there is a smart 
phone involved. I heard about a tow behind boat made from wood scraps found on 
the beach, complete with foils. Worked only at reduced speed.

Dave.
1975 C 33 SLY

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 12, 2017, at 5:03 PM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hey everyone,
> We are looking for ideas for kids entertainment on our 34'. We have 3 young 
> kids (19mo, 2, and 5) and 1 preteen (12).  What have you all done to get them 
> involved and also entertained during sails?
> 
> We are also looking for ideas and set ups on showing movies when things get a 
> little crazy and we need a break. What kind of setups do you all have?  TV 
> size, portable, fixed, DVD/Blu-ray, power, mounting etc?
> 
> Thanks,
> Kevin 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

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Re: Stus-List Removing Starter...

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Also, don't forget you have to get the starter back on, sometimes this can be 
harder than getting it off because you need to get hands in there as well to 
start the bolt, and the starter is heavy. I did cut a new access port some 
years ago but it still is difficult to get to the starter motor.  I've been 
told you sometimes can loosen a nut or bolt head using a stout flat head 
screwdriver and a hammer to persuade it to turn counter clockwise. Sounds like 
a last resort to me.
Good luck.
Dave.
1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 27, 2017, at 3:29 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My go to tools for tight places are the GearWrench 85035 35 Pc MicroDriver 
> Set and the Gearwrench ratcheting wrench sets (SAE and metric).  
> 
> Not sure if either will fit your situation.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Mar 27, 2017 at 5:23 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Can you get a flat ratchet wrench in there? All you need for swing room is 
>> one click. They have an open end on one end and a box (ratcheting) on the 
>> other. I got mine at Sears, but I’ve seen them at Lowe’s and elsewhere.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Monday, March 27, 2017 6:11 PM
>> To: CNC CNC 
>> Cc: David 
>> Subject: Stus-List Removing Starter...
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> So the head is off of the 3QM30 and while everything is apart I am 
>> rebuilding all the peripherals...including the starter. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Access to the starter seemed good.   Until it was not.  Cannot get a socket 
>> on there and swing room for a box wrench is limited and geometry awkward. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Aside from cutting a new access port through the quarter berth to get to the 
>> casing bolts is there some trick or specialty tool I have not thought of?  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thanks in advance
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> David F. Risch
>> 
>> 1981 40-2
>> 
>> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List UCCG documentation warning going around

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

I received Document renewal notices from both the USCG and "U.S. VESSEL 
DOCUMENTATION" both on the same day in the US mail. Thanks to this list I 
quickly knew what was up and have renewed via the USCG notice.
Thanks,
Dave.
1976 C 33
SLY

Sent from my iPad

> On Feb 10, 2017, at 1:19 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> It is good to see the word getting around.   
> 
>  I just received a link to the warning notice below in an email from the 
> SALTY SOUTHEAST CRUISERS’ NET.
> 
> 
> http://cruisersnet.net/alert-to-all-us-coast-guard-documented-vessel-owners/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Engine Stop Cable - C 37+

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Moyer Marine stocks choke cables in two different lengths. One is quite long 
and can be cut to length.
Dave.
1975 C 33
SLY

Sent from my iPad

> On Jan 26, 2017, at 9:15 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> And it won't be any available length except for one in Lima, Peru, that they 
> will bring in for you for $895 US. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 26 January 2017 at 15:24, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> It's just a "choke" cable.  You could get one from an auto parts store.  
>> I've had a bad experience with T.O.A.D. but they do have these engine stop 
>> cable available.
>> 
>> You might want to consider removing the original cause when you go to order 
>> the new one they will ask for the length.
>> 
>> https://www.google.com/search?q=yanmar+stop+cable=yanmar+stop+cable=chrome..69i57.12012j0j4=chrome-mobile=UTF-8
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>>> On Jan 26, 2017 10:47 AM, "Ron Ricci via CnC-List"  
>>> wrote:
>>> The shaft on the knob end of the engine stop cable for my Yanmar 3HM35F has 
>>> rusted so badly that the cable sticks.  The inner part of the original 
>>> cable appeared to be solid stainless steel wire.  The replacement cable 
>>> inner part is stranded and apparently not stainless steel.  It was easily 
>>> attracted to a magnet.   
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I’m looking for an alternative all stainless replacement.  So far, I struck 
>>> out with Teleflex/Morse.  Does anyone have any recommendations.
>>> 
>>> Regards,
>>> Ron
>>> 
>>> Ron Ricci
>>> S/V Patriot
>>> 
>>> C 37+
>>> 
>>> Bristol, RI
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Turns out, in my view, the success of spinnaker set, gybe and take down is 
controlled at the helm. When the boat is correctly driven through the maneuver 
the job on the foredeck is much more manageable. Please don't tell my wife the 
skipper.
Dave. K
SLY 1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 5, 2016, at 8:33 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> On Windburn we do end-for-end due to carrying an oversized pole.
> The J is 13.5' and the the pole is 14.4'. We normally do not have guys.
> 
> If there is difficulty keeping the chute stable and helping out foredeck
> by steering the chute try centering the main for a moment just as they
> are about to snap in the mast end.
> 
> Further to what Dennis is advising I find that losing the sail area of the
> spinnaker due to it not drawing well is slower than losing the sail area
> of the main for 5 - 10 seconds during the gybe. Note that the symmetrical
> spinnaker is 850 sq ft vs 225 sq ft for the main on Windburn.
> 
> In very light winds when gybing from a hot angle centering the main
> also helps to keep the spinnaker from collapsing and wrapping the
> forestay.
> 
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C 30-1
> 
> From: "Dennis C."  
> 
> Charlie, 
> 
> While many consider 35-36 feet the upper limit for end for end gybes, we 
> use end for end with an aluminum pole on Touche' (35-1).  With the right 
> technique, you shouldn't have issues. 
> 
> I've been doing foredeck since the mid 90's.  I think the key to a good, 
> and safe, end for end gybe is the driver and the way the driver and crew 
> think about the gybe. 
> 
> Many sailors think a chute gybe is moving the chute across the boat.  I 
> don't subscribe to that philosophy. 
> 
> A better way to think about gybing is you're moving the BOAT under the 
> chute.  Doesn't sound like much of a difference but it really is.  The idea 
> is to keep the chute flying and drawing while the driver gradually steers 
> the boat to the new course.  If the chute continues to fly effectively, 
> connecting the pole to the new sheet and then the mast will be nearly 
> effortless. 
> 
> Sit down with your crew and talk about gybing with this philosophy.  It may 
> be the difference you need. 
> 
> Dennis C. 
> Touche' 35-1 #83 
> Mandeville, LA 
> 
> On Sun, Dec 4, 2016 at 8:20 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
> 
> > We use a carbon fiber pole on Water Phantom, C 36 XL/kcb, for our 
> > kite(s) and have 'oscillated' back and forth between doing dip-pole jibes 
> > or end-for-end. The pole is a relatively light Forte carbon fiber pole with 
> > snap-in fitting on both ends. 
> > 
> > We always use lazy sheets and guys. 
> > 
> > As the driver, I don't have strong feelings about which method we use or 
> > should use. 
> > 
> > However, especially in breezes above 8 knots, it looks to me like our 
> > jibes are taking too much time when we end for end the pole. Of course I 
> > share some of the blame if I can't keep the boat headed downwind during the 
> > jibe but even when I seem to manage keeping her downwind, the mast man 
> > struggles to get the pole into the fitting and made--taking valuable time 
> > and giving a lot of downwind separation to our competitors. Of course, it 
> > also puts him at risk for the pole smashing him about the head and 
> > shoulders if the pressure builds on the kite before he has it made. 
> > 
> > I am convinced that my boat can sail to her rating upwind in breezes above 
> > about 8 knots--less not so much!--but downwind we often waste what seems 
> > like too much time on jibing. I say this with confidence since when we 
> > raced non-spin with a whisker pole, until we learned how to set the pole 
> > downwind, we would beat every boat to the windward mark and have most of 
> > them pass us on the way downwind. Once we got the mechanics straightened 
> > out, no one passed us downwind even if a few gained on us. 
> > 
> > OTOH, if we dip pole, the bow person often gets the new guy in the pole in 
> > the incorrect position (with his back to the bow), so there is certainly a 
> > need for more practice. 
> > 
> > My question for the list is what method should we invest practice time in 
> > so that jibing can be as routine as tacking. It seems that at 36 ft Water 
> > Phantom and a fiber pole could go either way but I would prefer to always 
> > use the same method so that we have a chance to get quick at it. 
> > 
> > Charlie Nelson 
> > Water Phantom 
> > C 36 XL/kcb 
> > 
> > cenel...@aol.com 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Thinking of a Wheel to Tiller Conversion

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

I have no experience with the 32 so should not comment but I have an early 33 
(1975) which was converted from wheel to tiller by a prior owner. In our case 
we would have it no other way. Our only modification was to replace the tiller 
with a longer version so my wife, the skipper sits up against the bulkhead on 
the seat or the combing. When tacking the crew is behind the skipper working 
the primary winches which are aft of the seats. In this way the crew stands 
over the winch to get maximum leverage and the skipper's view is not obstructed 
by the crew during tacking or gibing. If racing is your main activity I believe 
this is the way to go. It also keeps the weight forward except during tacks and 
gibes. As far as cockpit space is concerned, we have not seen this as a 
problem. And while not sailing, the tiller can be raised out of the way against 
the backstay. 
That's my two cents. Good luck with your conversion.
Dave. C 33 SLY

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 15, 2016, at 5:22 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Rod
>  
> Another option is to move your winches further aft to the spinnaker winch 
> location.  If you do not sail with a crew this is a good option and is how 
> Persistence was set up when we bought it.  Unfortunately for a crewed 
> situation or for racing you have your spinnaker trimmers facing a bit aft and 
> twisted while trimming genoa.  For those reasons we reconfigured our boat 
> back to its original configuration with primaries forward, spinnaker (or 
> secondaries) aft and a set of winches on coachroof for halyards and other 
> control lines.  That said for your purposes it may be an option and is not 
> difficult nor expensive to do.
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of roderick 
> anderson via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, November 14, 2016 7:27 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: roderick anderson
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Thinking of a Wheel to Tiller Conversion
>  
> Mike, that's a great idea and that would work well for me. Oddly enough my 32 
> was never rigged for a spinnaker but I can certainly take care of that. 
> Thanks!
> Rod
> 
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Re: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

We've lived with a Martel two bladed folding prop forever. Occasionally one 
blade will not open but putting it in reverse and back into forward has always 
worked for us. Each time we haul out (once every two or three years here in the 
Northwest) we remove the blades and thoroughly clean and polish all the parts. 
Maybe that helps. We also apply a little grease to the moving parts but I'm not 
sure that makes any difference. If I were having your problem I would look 
closely at the surfaces that move against each other to be sure there are no 
burrs which might cause the blades to hang up against each other.
Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 25, 2016, at 4:43 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hey guys, with all of the discussion on props it reminded me that I'm having 
> an issue with my 2 blade folding prop. Pretty sure it's the Martec that you 
> all are mentioning.
> 
> I continue to have issues with one blade not opening after we've been out 
> sailing. Once we drop the sails and go to engage the engine and prop it fails 
> to open one side and I get severe vibrations. Is this a normal thing with 
> these props? It truly makes me want to just get a fixed prop. Unfortunately 
> that's not in the budget right now though. 
> 
> So far I've tried: 
> to come to a complete stop and try again
> Kick it into reverse and then back to forward
> short kick to full throttle. 
> The last time we were out nothing worked. We ended up limping along back to 
> our slip. Afterwards I checked it by rotating it from the inside and it 
> sounded like both blades would open when it was facing down because I heard 
> the clunk.
> 
> Occasionally it will open but it's not a first time thing. On departure from 
> the slip I don't have any issues, it's only when trying to reengage the motor 
> after a sail. It's really frustrating, any ideas?
> 
> Kevin Paxton
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
> Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
> 
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Re: Stus-List What speed should I expect for 33-2 under power?

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

We too have a 1975 33 with an Atomic 4. What is your hull number? We cruise at 
1800 RPMs and get about 6 knots. We are in the process of replacing our engine 
with a rebuilt  from Moyer Marine. If you are not familiar with Moyer Marine 
you should be. They are the authority on all things Atomic 4. They even 
manufacture C style engine mounts which seem to match the original specks.
Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 17, 2016, at 8:00 AM, Free Girls Sailing via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> We have an Atomic 4 in our 33 Mark 1 and top speed is around 6.5 knots. 
> 
> Jessica 
> 1975 C 33 Mark 1
> 
>> On Wednesday, August 17, 2016, doug.welch--- via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I am getting 5.5 kn @2,800 in flat water. I have a 2 blade variprofile 
>> feathering prop. 
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Re: Stus-List Boarding Ladder

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Marek.
Doesn't sound funny to me. One of our biggest safety concerns we have on SLY, 
our 1975 C 33, is having my wife or I fall overboard. Even with the Life 
Sling this is a serious risk especially in cold water as we have here in the 
Northwest. I'd love to have a boat with an open transom.
Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 13, 2016, at 8:29 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> You want to have, at least, a good rung or two under water and a reasonable 
> way of clearing the pushpit. This applies to those of us who are not built 
> like Mark Spitz. Your Admiral will be thankful.  
>  
> I know that it may sound funny, but one of the reasons why we changed boats 
> was the difficulty of access from the water on the old one and the open 
> transom on the new one.
>  
> I also know a fellow sailor in our Club who is selling his boat for the same 
> reason- his wife had the hip replacement and has a major difficulty getting 
> out of the water.
>  
> In short, when you install the new ladder, invest in a good solution: long 
> ladder and a gate in the pushpit.
>  
> Good luck
>  
> Marek
> 1994 C270 “Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
> From: G Collins via CnC-List
> Sent: August 13, 2016 10:29
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: G Collins
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boarding Ladder
>  
> I will second the comments about ensuring a good length of the ladder is 
> underwater when folded down - my mother-in-law fell into the water one time 
> off our previous boat, and could not get up the ladder - the lowest rung was 
> barely below the surface.  After that debacle I invested in a lifesling, but 
> on Secret Plans the ladder is a good rung and a half under  water, so it is 
> much easier to get up.
> 
> You may not plan on swimming, but you should plan on being able to get out...
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
> On 2016-08-13 2:29 AM, Alan Zuas via CnC-List wrote:
> 
> 
> 
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> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>  
>  
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Re: Stus-List C 33 Rudder Post lubrication

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Thanks Steve, this is great information. I'm happy to have found your C 
support site and have already received this and other helpful information.
Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 8, 2016, at 6:07 PM, S Thomas via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> This subject has come up a number of times, and due to the difficulty of 
> access, many C owners have opted to screw in a hose fitting in place of the 
> grease cup and run a line to a grease nipple at a more convenient location. 
> As others have mentioned, all is above the water line, so no worries there. 
> The thread into the rudder post should be 1/4" NPT, but it is easy enough to 
> check against a known fitting once you get the old one out. The link is to a 
> site which has what looks to me like the original equipment. I have not dealt 
> with them, but you can see what the grease cups looked like new, and the 
> dimensions.
> 
> http://www.magnetoparts.com/grease_cups.htm
> 
> I used an artist's paint brush to apply transmission fluid to the rudder 
> shaft at the top of the rudder tube, and again where the top bearing comes 
> through the deck, on a boat that had been sitting for a few years. That 
> worked good to free it up, and I recommend it for that purpose, but it won't 
> last. Winch grease or some other kind of water resistant grease will last a 
> lot longer.
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
> 
> C
> Merritt Island, FL
> 
> - Original Message - From: "David Kaseler via CnC-List" 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: "David Kaseler" <kasel...@q.com>
> Sent: Monday, August 08, 2016 16:48
> Subject: Stus-List C 33 Rudder Post lubrication
> 
> 
>> I have a C 33 from 1975 and I have just discovered what appears to be a 
>> very deteriorated grease cup fitting on the fiberglass tube which supports 
>> the rudder post. It appears that the top of the grease cup itself has rotted 
>> away leaving just the sides and a very rusty body. I touched it and some 
>> metal feel off in my fingers. Have other C owners had to deal with this 
>> issue?  What am I looking at? Can this fitting be replaced? Is it screwed 
>> into the glass or just glassed in. Can this be worked on with the boat 
>> afloat or am I going to sink the boat? Any help I can get with this project 
>> will be greatly appreciated.
>> Thanks from a new member,
>> Dave.
> 
> 
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> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!


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Stus-List C 33 Rudder Post lubrication

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

I have a C 33 from 1975 and I have just discovered what appears to be a very 
deteriorated grease cup fitting on the fiberglass tube which supports the 
rudder post. It appears that the top of the grease cup itself has rotted away 
leaving just the sides and a very rusty body. I touched it and some metal feel 
off in my fingers. Have other C owners had to deal with this issue?  What am 
I looking at? Can this fitting be replaced? Is it screwed into the glass or 
just glassed in. Can this be worked on with the boat afloat or am I going to 
sink the boat? Any help I can get with this project will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks from a new member,
Dave.

Sent from my iPad

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