Stus-List Re: C Racing Shirt - Size XL - Free (pay Shipping and Donation)

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I have already suggested to John Kelly C

Get Outlook for iOS

From: Motion Designs Limited via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2023 5:39:07 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Motion Designs Limited 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C Racing Shirt - Size XL - Free (pay Shipping and 
Donation)

If there is enough interest I can add it to www.candcyachts.com

I was hoping to grab an original for the archives but I was too late :-(

JohnKelly Cuthbertson

www.candcyachts.com
Motion Designs Limited
647 990 7752

On Dec 31, 2023, at 4:52 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:



Edd;



From the prompt responses to your offer (unfortunately, I was cooking when you 
sent the message and didn’t see it until a few minutes ago) I think you may 
have identified an item that John Kelly might want to add to the C Chandlery. 
I know I’d buy one if they were available.



Hope you have a great New Year – even though you’ve become a stinkpotter.





Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47

la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225

Washington, NC







From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2023 2:22 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Stus-List C Racing Shirt - Size XL - Free (pay Shipping and Donation)



Listers,



Happy new year!



I’m giving away my never-worn C Racing polo shirt, size XL.



On the front is the C logo with “RACING” underneath. On the back are the 
nautical flags: Alpha Mike Foxtrot (You’ll have to look it up as to what that 
means, but here’s a hint: C are so fast that your competition will see this 
on your back as you pull away.)



See: 
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/2jdxgny0u4zp6sgwp8yok/cc-shirt.jpg?rlkey=zsylggrdk09zmttmb4i68lpj8=0



First person to reply that he/she wants it has first dibs. After that. i’ll 
need $10 via PayPal to cover shipping and for you to make a donation to Stu for 
the C site/list. I’ll leave it up to you if you want to donate $1 or $100.





All the best,



Edd





Edd M. Schillay

Captain of the Starship Enterprise

Bayliner 3788 | NCC-1701-C

Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL














Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C Racing Shirt - Size XL - Free (pay Shipping and Donation)

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Applying for the shirt. $ CDN  or  US?

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From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2023 2:22:29 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Stus-List C Racing Shirt - Size XL - Free (pay Shipping and Donation)

Listers,

Happy new year!

I’m giving away my never-worn C Racing polo shirt, size XL.

On the front is the C logo with “RACING” underneath. On the back are the 
nautical flags: Alpha Mike Foxtrot (You’ll have to look it up as to what that 
means, but here’s a hint: C are so fast that your competition will see this 
on your back as you pull away.)

See: 
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/2jdxgny0u4zp6sgwp8yok/cc-shirt.jpg?rlkey=zsylggrdk09zmttmb4i68lpj8=0

First person to reply that he/she wants it has first dibs. After that. i’ll 
need $10 via PayPal to cover shipping and for you to make a donation to Stu for 
the C site/list. I’ll leave it up to you if you want to donate $1 or $100.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
Bayliner 3788 | NCC-1701-C
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL









Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Seasons' Greeting

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Hear hear!

Get Outlook for iOS

From: Schiller via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2023 4:03:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Schiller 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Seasons' Greeting

Stu,


Merry Christmas to you and thank you for all that you do for all of us.


Neil Schiller

1983 C 35-3, #028

Whitehall, Michigan

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Donation

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Having trouble doing this. What am I doing wrong?
Get Outlook for iOS
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me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Atomic 4 reversing - help, help

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Don’t forget Moyer’s advice- Marvel Mystery Oil.

Get Outlook for iOS

From: Paul Hood via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, August 1, 2023 2:33:47 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Paul Hood 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Atomic 4 reversing - help, help


I see that that suggestion here is change the oil.  I can do so and fill with 
the new but do you recommend a flush of some sort between or just drain and 
fill?  Can’t imagine that’s my problem but I’m running out of options.



Paul Hood

416.799.5549



From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, August 1, 2023 1:55 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Atomic 4 reversing - help, help



Y'all piqued my  interest.  The Castrol website is a bit of a pain to find 
their motorcycle product specs.  Ultimately, I found all of the motorcycle oils 
are multi viscosity.  So it seems like Castrol is out of the picture.  I have 
little to no experience with Castrol tech support but can attest to phenomenal 
tech support from AMSOIL.  Call their tech support and explain the problem they 
can most likely find a product for your application based on friction 
coefficients and viscosity, not based on designated product application.

I was overwhelmed by the choices of hydro oil for my backstay.  The 
manufacturer simply said ISO 32.  What!?  Amsoil tech support was very helpful 
and found their power steering fluid to fit the bill.


Best of luck,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


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Stu

Stus-List Re: need age-reversing machine ASAP! Or a boat expander!

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Had to be rescued from a similar position on my 27-III.

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From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2023 6:12:06 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Stus-List Re: need age-reversing machine ASAP! Or a boat expander!


I suspect most of us with IOR era boats have had similar experiences.



The transom on my 38 is a bit over 5 feet wide. I needed to adjust the steering 
cables on the quadrant, so I removed the one scupper hose in the way and went 
down in the lazarette with my trusty wrenches and schrunched head first, on my 
back towards the steering gear. I couldn't quite put a wrench on both ends of 
the steering cable, so I put my foot on a convenient surface in the lazarette 
and pushed myself the last few inches until I could reach just fine. Success! 
The wheel centered and the cables snug.



Then the problem materialized.



I couldn't back out. My hands were trapped above my head by the underside of 
the cockpit sole and the steering guide pulleys with nothing to push against. 
Nothing I could reach with my foot to pull against. And no one on the dock to 
hear me shout "Anyone there!?"



About the time I had decided that they would  discover my withered body when 
the smell became offensive to someone on an adjacent boat at the club, I decide 
to make another try at getting out. I finally managed to raise my back and 
wiggle my butt so I could "inchworm" myself down a quarter or half inch at a 
time until I could hook a toe on the edge of the fuel tank and move back until 
I could free my hands, reach the side of the lazarette, and pull out of the 
trap.



I'm basically convinced that a new boat should come with the option of either a 
midget with an engineering degree, or a very precocious 14-year old.



Rick Brass

Imzadi C 38 mk2

Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: Stus-List 
Sent: Jul 23, 2023 4:36 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Stus-List Re: need age-reversing machine ASAP! Or a boat expander!



I can easily relate to that.



I was stuck, headfirst, in the lazarette on friend’s Hunter 34. The lazarette 
was deep and there was a “point of no return”. If you passed it, there was no 
way to crawl your way back, but the lazarette was too tight to fall in and 
reverse. Fortunately, the owner was not that far away and eventually heard my 
yelps for help.



I keep saying that we need to teach some very little kids (2-3 yo) to do 
maintenance on our boats. They have the right size for that.



Marek



1994 C270 Legato

Ottawa ON







From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2023 3:35 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: need age-reversing machine ASAP! Or a boat expander!



I still have nightmares of getting stuck back under the cockpit.

I once got stuck upside down head first, under the cutting board, under a panel 
below that where I was working on the isotherm refrigeration unit. I was 
calling for help, but no one was around. After about an hour and half, I 
finally extricated myself.



Bill Coleman

Former C 39



On Sun, Jul 23, 2023 at 12:11 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I am running the propane hose for my new stove down the starboard side of the 
boat, which is requiring me to crawl back to the stern under/beside the aft 
cockpit. My memory of working back there was I just crawled in and back out. 
Turns out to not be that easy, I had to take the engine control cables and 
bilge pump hoses off their fittings and I still can just barely sort of do it. 
When I was a teenager I fit just fine. Did the boat shrink? Can I expand it? 
Did I “opposite of shrink”?



Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA





Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu


Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Fastnet tracker

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Fascinating! Also scary!

Get Outlook for iOS

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2023 8:58:59 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Fastnet tracker

Anybody watching the Fastnet Race?  Here's the tracker:

https://cf.yb.tl/fastnet2023

Blowing low-mid 20's on the nose for next few hours.

--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stu

Stus-List Re: C 25 depth sounder location

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Agreed

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 23, 2023, at 6:52 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
wrote:


Not sure which model you are referring to, but most often they are just ahead 
of the keel, but off to one side several inches, usually SB, I think .  There 
should be a section adjacent to the centerline where it is solid Glass before 
it goes up onto the balsa.

Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA

On Thu, Feb 23, 2023 at 5:50 PM Juliano Franz via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Folks,
I bit the bullet in this year's boat show and bought a wind/depth combo from 
Garmin. New electronics since 1982 on Spice.

Im having a bit of a hard time finding where to place the transducer (airmar 
depth, speed, temp). Manual says ahead of the keel but access on the 25 Mk II 
seems limited.

Anyone around here has any tips?

Cheers
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C 35 Mk I Recommendations for Sailmaker

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Dave Foy @ BYC is a North Rep

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 5, 2023, at 2:51 PM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List  
wrote:


I ve used Sportech Sails in St Catherine’s for sails and canvas work for a 
while now. Been very happy with Jamie’s work

Paul

From: Glen Eddie via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2023 10:28:13 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Glen Eddie 
Subject: Stus-List C 35 Mk I Recommendations for Sailmaker


Hello everyone,



Time for Freya to get a new Mainsail and Headsail (135%-150% furling dacron).  
Any preferred sailmakers in the Greater Toronto Area?



Thanks



Glen Eddie​​

Legal services provided through J. Glen Eddie Professional Corporation

Tel: 416-777-5357

Fax: 1-888-812-2557

ged...@torkinmanes.com

VCard

Torkin Manes LLP

Barristers & Solicitors

Ranked the #1 Ontario Regional Law Firm by Canadian Lawyer

151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
Toronto ON M5C 2W7

torkinmanes.com

An international member of Ally Law
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Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu
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me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: C 35 MK I 170%

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

M’y expérience is similar -27-III

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 4, 2022, at 4:27 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List  
wrote:


Sailing solo good for you.  I reckon my boat speed going to weather was only 
about 1 kt less sailig jib alone but I couldn't  sail as close to the wind 
still i had more gentle control with main alone in heavy stuff on my 35 KKII. I 
liked thst

On Fri, Nov 4, 2022 at 5:18 PM John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I sail solo 80% of the time on  My 37. She loves to sail with just the 130 
genny! Good up to 18-20knt. As mentioned keeps up with most with no main, and 
still very balanced !   Very little sacrifice in speed. If I could only reach 
the winches from behind the wheel!

John Conklin
S/v Halcyon



On Nov 4, 2022, at 2:00 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

My boat sails fine with just genoa too.  Only two lines to deal with and the 
cockpit is quiet and less busy.  Great for lunch or snacking.
It sails fine with just main, also, and tacking in tight quarters is easier.   
Handles like a laser.
With a J of 14'10" and an E of 15'1" they are almost the same on a 34R.

Chuck S
On 11/04/2022 10:31 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


My boat sails quite well with just the genoa. Prior to roller furling this was 
a pain, wind changes were sail changes, but now it makes life easy cruising 
Joe
Coquina
Ps – back in the day the 170s were not exotic racing sails, they were just the 
normal light air sail. They worked (and still work) just fine in the light 
stuff, the biggest issue was seeing around them. I almost t-boned a humpback 
whale that was napping on the surface out of my view on the low side, the whale 
exhaled and sank just enough for us to glide over him. He was not happy to be 
disturbed though, he swam over to ANOTHER boat and did a big jump to spray them 
LOL


From: John McCrea via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Thursday, November 3, 2022 10:01 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I 170%

The good thing about the older design is that when cruising, you can sail with 
just the genoa. I drive some friends crazy with their modern euro boats that 
cannot sail without the main up. I am pushing 7 knots, towing a dinghy with a 
135 genoa in a 15 knot breeze and they can not keep up under full sail. Most 
modern boats today fall into that category.

John McCrea
Talisman
1979 36-1
Mystic, CT

From: Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Thursday, November 3, 2022 9:34 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: wolf...@erie.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I 170%

I don’t think that’s correct.  My boom is very small compared to the size of 
the boat, and my mast appears to be placed a bit forward of normal.  I assume 
the 1975 design was IOR driven.

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Thursday, November 3, 2022 4:33 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Hoyt, Mike mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com>>; CHARLES 
SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I 170%

I thought the shorter boom was due to designers placing the mast further back 
to get a large J measurement so 150% genoas were bigger.  More sail area 
overall.

Chuck S

--
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Try Apple Auto glass. Their windshield tape does the job.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 25, 2022, at 7:51 AM, schiller via CnC-List  
wrote:

 If you can't get Bed-it.  Try your local RV store for Dicor Butyl tape.  I 
have both and find them similar.

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan

On 10/24/2022 11:16 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
Still looking for a source for Bed-it butyl tape.  Every one I check is sold 
out or out of stock.  Has anyone bought some recently?

Chuck S

Stus-List Re: Tuning questions - now Loos gauge accuracy

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Some interesting thoughts here. Looser tuning tends to be faster, in my opinion 
(C 27-III)

Sent from Mail for Windows

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: October 20, 2022 9:45 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Tuning questions - now Loos gauge accuracy

Hmmm.  Didn't think Loos gauges were terribly inaccurate.  Now I question them. 
 Found this article:

https://l-36.com/loosaccuracy.php

Guess a good rule is to use the same gauge only to return your rig to settings 
based on your experience on the water.

I might borrow a neighbor's gauge and compare it to mine.
--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Oct 19, 2022 at 7:55 PM Doug Robinson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
YO;

It has been our observation that the Loos gauge readings are relative
and not specific, our gauge will not match yours.  But if you  use my
gauge (or yours) and measure my rig you can use the same gauge to return
to your boat and match settings.   We could be wrong in this.

One of those races where we interchange crew members, Chris Doyle from
Skip Doyle's boat Rocking Chair was delegated to our boat...first thing
he did was to loosen the rig and we did well. Wish we had kept those
settings, I think we sail to tight.

Doug Robinson

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

What do Mars Keels have to say?

Sent from Mail for Windows

From: G Donald Wagner via CnC-List
Sent: September 25, 2022 7:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com; G Donald 
Wagner
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

I believe our C yachts use lead doped with  a percent of Antimony. The 
Antimony adds strength, hardness, oxidation resistance,  and aids in the flow 
for the casting process.
It not like pure lead, and the properties are not the same. maybe we have some 
metallurgists in the group, and they can comment ?

Don Wagner
C 41 CB
"Der Baron"
-Original Message-
From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
Sent: Sun, Sep 25, 2022 2:32 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
I hadn’t thought of that! The keel is slowly getting shorter. If I keep the 
boat another 50 years I won’t be aground at extra-low tide!


Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA



From: Leeward Rail via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2022 1:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Leeward Rail 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

The keel bolts are in lead. Lead is soft and eventually they would pull upwards 
slightly.  I would assume that is why.   I have been planning to contact 
MARSKEEL and get some pro info.

Stus-List Re: Partially furling the genoa when racing

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I would move the leads forward to help sail shape.

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 12, 2022, at 11:11 AM, Matthew via CnC-List  
wrote:


Even a broken clock is correct twice a day.

From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2022 10:40 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike ; Jeffrey A. Laman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Partially furling the genoa when racing

David,
Reefing the genoa on a furler is routine where I sail and race.  I reef my main 
first, then reef my 135 second.  Typically when wind is about 15mph+ I keep 
about 5 winds on the furler, making the headsail about 110.  My luff is foam 
and will keep the sail shape decent up to about the 5 winds.  Another boat has 
a UK sail with very large foam tubes that maintains shape pretty well when 
furled.  After 5 winds, the shape gets bad fast on my foam luffed genoa.  The 
genoa needs to be capable of being reefed, but I don't know of anyone I sail 
with who has a head sail that isn't made to handle reefing.  Have a sail maker 
look at it if you aren't sure.  As for the furler line "fighting" the sheets, 
not really.  Lock the furler in and done.  Sheet the headsail as you normally 
would.  Challenge might be moving your cars forward, then back again as you 
furl and unfurl.  Also, unfurling is easy.  Furling back on is not.  But, 
typically our races are to windward start, then a reach, so start with furled, 
then let it go around the mark and finish the race.  Not ideal, but it works 
better than being overpowered.  A purist in the fleet scoffs at furlers and 
says, "You never have the right sail with a furler." Yea, ok, but I sail solo a 
lot too, so that's where I am.

Jeff Laman
81 C
Harmony
Ludington, MI

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2022 10:25 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Hoyt, Mike mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Partially furling the genoa when racing


Hi David



First I find it unusual to hear of a J27 with a furling genoa.  We had a J27 
that came that way and it was the only one I knew of.  Our furling genoa was 
awful to use when racing anyway so we would  ignore the furler and tack our 
racing sails to the deck below the drum.  Eventually sold the luff foil, 
furling system and the furling genoa and replaced with a tuff luff



J27 upwind if too windy for 150 should use a blade as it is much faster.  
Downwind most 27s fly a spinnaker anyway.



On our 33 we will sometimes be overpowered upwind flying our non furling 140 or 
155 genoas for the added boost downwind if racing non spin.  If it is too windy 
for our 140 we drop to our 103%% head sail.



Your genoa would have to be designed and built to sail partially furled for it 
to have any sort of performance up wind.  I know some have foam in the luff 
area for this.  Regardless I would think the loss of upwind performance would 
be a pretty nasty price to pay for more horsepower down wind …



Those are my thoughts



Regards



Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS



From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: September 12, 2022 11:12 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Partially furling the genoa when racing



I was talking to the skipper of a J27 who nearly always wins our PHRF class and 
he was telling me that while he wins a lot, he struggles in heavier air.  He 
said he had recently started partially roller furling his large genoa for 
upwind legs and then unfurling downwind when the wind was strong enough to 
overpower him.  I have never considered doing that and my larger genoa does not 
have “reef points” .  What are the groups thoughts on the value/feasibility of 
this?   Any reason it would be bad for the sail?  It certainly would be easier 
than putting on my smaller sail when winds are questionable.  I worry about not 
only sail shape, but when partially furled, the furler and genoa sheet are 
fighting each other, which might not be a good thing for the furler.  Dave



S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT

[image001.png]

Stus-List Re: Eight Bells for Rob Ball

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

That is very sad news. Many thanks, Ron, for the gift of your talent.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 10, 2022, at 4:40 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> That’s sad news. Aside from his obvious talent for designing beautiful boats 
> that sailed as well as they looked, he was a very nice guy. I found him very 
> generous with his time and happy to give advice on the several occasions I 
> asked.
> RIP, Rob.
> 
> Andy
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fsites.google.com%2Fsite%2Fandrewburtonyachtservices%2Fdata=05%7C01%7C%7C50f23cc6afdb4fa44ad108da93080dc5%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637983960046361519%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7Csdata=Z3WX%2BkC2mjnK2MLN2bGLjHhJZFL0RH1%2BPqvv4QA3fuQ%3Dreserved=0
> +401 965-5260
> 
>> On Sep 10, 2022, at 02:10, Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Listers, I regret to report that Pat Mangan Ball posted end-of-watch 9/9/22 
>> for Rob Ball, on the C Owners Facebook group 50 minutes ago.
>> 
>> Respectfully,
>> Randy Stafford
>> SV Grenadine
>> C 30 MK I #79
>> Ken Caryl, CO
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Bed-It butyl tape

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Best Pinto I ever saw was in a campsite in Cape Cod. It had been converted into 
a “honey wagon”!

Sent from Mail for Windows

From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List
Sent: August 6, 2022 11:04 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Leeward Rail; Neil 
Andersen
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Bed-It butyl tape

But a Ford Pinto was an “explosive” example of engineering in a small car .  
What is there not to love about a Pinto

Neil Andersen, W3NEA
Rock Hall, MD 21661
484-354-8800

From: Leeward Rail via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, August 6, 2022 10:27:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Leeward Rail 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Bed-It butyl tape

FWIW.  The man who developed the Bed-It tape had a stoke last year and is 
slowly getting going again, along with the help of the sailboatowners.com

New shipments are going out this month. I ordered 2 rolls to make sure I  don't 
run out again.

Other 'versions' that you can buy are not even close to the quality and 
performance of Bed-It.  I wasted money on a few.

It is like comparing a Rolls Royce to a Ford Pinto.

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Bed-It butyl tape

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I have had good luck buying butyl tape from Apple Auto Glass. I’m sure other 
windshield repair places also have it.

Sent from Mail for Windows

From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List
Sent: August 6, 2022 12:23 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Neil Andersen
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Bed-It butyl tape

That’s true, it did look like a toad

Neil Andersen, W3NEA
Rock Hall, MD 21661
484-354-8800

From: Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, August 6, 2022 11:57:47 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Doug Mountjoy 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Bed-It butyl tape

I always called the Pacer a Pregnant toad.
Doug Mountjoy
C Landfall 39 1988
Sabre 34 1983


On Sat, Aug 6, 2022, 08:36 leewardrail hotmail via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hehe. A buddy in High school had a brand new, puke yellow, Merc Bobcat. No room 
for much more than a GF. and it was really too small for "that"   :(   The fuel 
tank is the only place it created heat.  Hehe.  Not sure why people bought 
them.  You could get a basic Cougar for the same price.  The only thing uglier 
was the Pacer.
On 2022-08-06 10:04 a.m., Neil Andersen wrote:
But a Ford Pinto was an “explosive” example of engineering in a small car .  
What is there not to love about a Pinto

Neil Andersen, W3NEA
Rock Hall, MD 21661
484-354-8800

From: Leeward Rail via CnC-List 

Sent: Saturday, August 6, 2022 10:27:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Leeward Rail 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Bed-It butyl tape

FWIW.  The man who developed the Bed-It tape had a stoke last year and is 
slowly getting going again, along with the help of the 
sailboatowners.com

New shipments are going out this month. I ordered 2 rolls to make sure I  don't 
run out again.

Other 'versions' that you can buy are not even close to the quality and 
performance of Bed-It.  I wasted money on a few.

It is like comparing a Rolls Royce to a Ford Pinto.

Stus-List Re: Bed-It butyl tape

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Try Apple Auto Glass

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 26, 2022, at 12:19 PM, nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Hey Chuck,

Try this link –   I just successfully put it in the cart to test it.  Did not 
try to check out though as still have some ordered from Rod before his event.

Bed-It Bed-It Tape 
(sailboatowners.com)

Brian


From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2022 12:07 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List Bed-It butyl tape

Looking to buy a new roll of Bed-it butyl tape.  Anybody buy it recently?

Seems the old supplier has a dead end link to "sailboatowners.com".

I tried a few google searches but they were all dead ends except one selling a 
roll for $40.  I have a roll from SailRite that is crap.  It was fine when new, 
but after some months onboard this summer, it's now a real struggle to remove 
from it's own wax paper and stretches and breaks.  Had to use a putty knife to 
get the wax paper off.

Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R Annapolis

Stus-List Re: Yanmar 2 GMF

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Have used K in my vehicles for decades. Very satisfied. Should work in boats.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 29, 2022, at 9:31 PM, Dave via CnC-List  wrote:


We have met the enemy, and he is us!  Lol
Mine also disintegrated, and the particles were ingested by the engine.   Seems 
a bit ironic for an air filter to expire this way, though oddly just for 
failing to replace it.
You too were punished.   Karma.

Glad it worked out.

Dave


Sent from 
Mail
 for Windows

From: Robert Abbott
Sent: June 29, 2022 6:18 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Dave S
Subject: Yanmar 2 GMF

Dave,

The truth be known, genius here 2 or 3 years ago took the old filter out and it 
had pretty much had been disintegratednot having a new Yanmar air filter, 
but the old metal ring, I took a piece of a sponge and cut it to fit into the 
metal ring and thought it was all O.K.   The sponge will filter the air.
Right?

Well no, it did work for a while but a genuine Yanmar air filter works 
better.as I found out.

There, I confessedit was me that caused the problem.   The new Yanmar air 
filter cost $45 here which seems like a lot for a simple device.  But $45 is 
not a lot when the pain, angst, and disruption of one's sailing season is in 
jeopardy.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.
On 2022-06-29 2:06 p.m., Dave S via CnC-List wrote:
Good to hear.   How the heck did the old one get that clogged?   Bad decade for 
mosquitoes?

Dave



On Tue, 28 Jun 2022 at 22:19, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

While I awaited another day for a marine mechanic to get around to
addressing my engine problem, while on the boat today, I thought of
something.I had a new Yanmar air filter on the boat which I got last
year, which I thought what harm could a new air filter dochanged out
the old one and replaced with new one, and guess what, in neutral, the
engine revived up to 3,400 before i stoppedran the engine in forward
gear at the slip for another 20 minutes shut the engine
off...started again...revved up and downengine works as it should.

The problem was a lack of airexplains where the smoke was coming
fromincomplete combustion...now, with the new air filter, no smoke.

Thanks to everyone for thoughts/possibilities of what might be the cause
of my engine issue.

Going for a sail tomorrow.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

Stus-List Re: Cost to replace UV cover

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Gorilla Tape is very useful for sail repair.

Sent from Mail for Windows

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: June 20, 2022 7:33 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Stus-List Re: Cost to replace UV cover

Maybe it's time for a SailRite machine!
On the other hand, isn't there some kind of a white sticky material you can buy 
and just put it on yourself? It sticks like the numbers or graphics. I'm pretty 
sure I had that on one of my leeches.
Bill Coleman
Entrada Erie PA

On Mon, Jun 20, 2022, 19:08 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

The UV cover on my genoa is starting to fail, so I took it to Bacons to get 
repaired. I figured 5 or 6 boat bucks maybe. Well I figured wrong, the estimate 
came back at $1350! Yikes!
Are they nuts or is this the going rate now? That seems like a pretty good 
chunk of an entire sail!


Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA

Stus-List Re: Not getting emails

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Most of Ontario and Quebec Don’t have internet or cell at 100% due to the 
storms!

Sent from my iPhone

On May 24, 2022, at 5:23 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
wrote:

 I am not getting any emails from the list.  It is me or you?  No idea.

Tom B

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com

Stus-List Re: While we wait for spring

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Great post. Thanks!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 1, 2022, at 12:11 PM, J.P. via CnC-List  wrote:


Wonderful history!

JP
S/V Alethea
C 43-1

From: JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, April 1, 2022 9:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: JohnKelly Cuthbertson 
Subject: Stus-List While we wait for spring

In my ongoing history of George H. Cuthbertson and C Yachts

Red Jacket

Cuthbertson and Cassian had been designing together for approximately 6 years 
when in 1965 Perry Connolly invited George H. Cuthbertson out to a Maple Leafs 
hockey game in Toronto. During the break between the second and third period, 
Perry had decided that 4 years with his CN35 Carousel was enough and he asked 
GHC to design “the meanest, hungriest 40-footer afloat.”
Project #65-13 Red Jacket was designed to the Cruising Club of America ( CCA ) 
rules of the day with an eye to her racing on the Great Lakes. GHC after years 
of being the Royal Canadian Yacht Club measurer new what had gone fast in the 
past but he was looking forward. Reducing weight fore and aft helped reduce her 
pitching in seas, part of this was eliminating the stateroom forward of the 
mast, a radical idea, and the area becoming the head and sail locker. He added 
a bowsprit to increase the fore triangle and from tank testing they went with a 
cantilevered spade rudder which was unusual for the time.

Oh yes, not only was she fiberglass, she also had a balsa core hull. The first 
sailing yacht to be built with this technique. , one layer of end grain balsa 
squares sandwiched between two layers of fiberglass. Common now a day but state 
of the art in 1965. Diagonal bands of solid fiberglass were also introduced to 
relieve some stresses expected on the boat, builder stresses on using the new 
material and designer stresses for an unproven technique. ½” balsa was used 
below the waterline and ¾ above but with a hull thickness of a uniform 1”
Launched in May 1966, her first year of racing she won 11 of 13 races. 
Defeating Inferno from the Chicago Yacht Club in the Prince of Wales race, Jim 
McHugh who was defending his title suggested to Perry that he should take Red 
Jacket to the Southern Ocean Racing Conference ( SORC ). 1967 SORC, Red Jacket 
skippered by Connolly, proved a great success until a fatal tactical mistake in 
the Miami to Nassau Race led to her losing the top position. In 1968 she 
returned and finished first overall, the first non-American boat to do that and 
that a Canadian yacht has never repeated. Red Jacket returned a third time in 
1969 and finished 12th, her new fixed prop ( for the IOR rating bump ) and 
light winds did her no favour.
George H. Cuthbertson never was finished with Red Jacket. She received a bustle 
in 1968, new keel in 1969, what he considers an unsuccessful update in 1979 and 
in 1984 her keel, rudder and rig were reworked again. The 1984 rework was due 
to Paul Phelan adding a teak deck, thus making her top heavy and slow. This 
teak deck has since been removed.

One story from the time is as Erich Bruchmann was changing her keel in his 
shop, the keel fell when they undid the last bolt, crashing in to the cradle. 
This started Red Jacket capsizing on to the concrete floor which would have 
ended her but she was quickly stabilized and everyone took a breath.

Perry Connolly, by 1971 was in financial trouble and had to let Red Jacket go. 
She was sold to Florida for a few years before Norm Walsh returned RJ back to 
Canada. Peter Bowman had her then Paul Phelan owned her for many years, next 
his son before she passed to Peter Milligan. Peter realizing the history he had 
acquired vowed to take care of her and he did. He restored her and raced her 
competitively for many years and committed to donate her to the Marine Museum 
of the Great Lakes in Kingston Ontario after his death. Due to Covid 
restrictions she still sits in Port Credit but it is hoped she will sailed to 
Kingston this summer of 2022 and will stay in the water there available for 
charters from the MMOTGL.

If you'd like to read other articles I've posted on the history of GHC, C 
yachts and a few reproduction of promotional items, go to 

Stus-List Re: While we wait for spring

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

The story continues. Thanks!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 16, 2022, at 9:16 PM, JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I haven’t posted on of my shirt C histories for a while
> 
> 1930 to 2011 - Erich Bruckmann
> 
> If we remember George H. Cuthbertson and his partner at the time Peter 
> Davidson had come across the 78’ ketch Mir for Harry Greb of Greb Shoes Co. 
> G.H.C. sailed her across the Atlantic and brought her to Lake Ontario in 
> 1953. Mr. Greb had bought Northern Shipbuilding and Repair at Bronte Harbour, 
> Ontario renamed it Metro Marine to work on his 50’ schooner Herron.  Mir 
> being larger he acquired the Oakville Yacht Company as a home for her in 
> Oakville Harbour.
> To staff Metro Marine, he had hired Dell Ives from the Royal Canadian Yacht 
> Club to manage. Mr. Ives was responsible for hiring Erich Bruckmann in 1956. 
> Erich had just arrived from Austria where he had apprenticed as a 
> cabinetmaker. In no short time the shop with the skilled craftsmen were 
> building multiple G.H.C. designs, La Mouette, Pipedream, 6 Pintail double 
> enders, and the 42’ Thermopylae.
> Dick Telford introduced the building technique of “Inside-Out” where the 
> interior was finished first and then the hull planking applied. He also 
> developed the process of cove and bead with the hull planks where a cove and 
> bead were placed on each plank; the plank was installed with cove up to hold 
> the glue and conforms to the shape without any gaps. This technique was used 
> for the construction of the plugs for later fiberglass boats at Bruckmann 
> Manufacturing.
> Erich Bruckmann left in 1965 to start his own cabinet shop, but continued 
> contact with George C. by doing the interior on a couple of CN 35s. By 1966, 
> Erich couldn’t stay away from boat building and accepted the job of building 
> Red Jacket.
> Even before Red Jacket is complete more orders start arriving and the cabinet 
> shop is left behind and Bruckmann’s shop becomes a boat building hotbed. His 
> original shop overwhelmed by Red Jacket, she is moved to a new shop on 
> Wallace Road in Oakville, Ontario to be finished. He would move the shop once 
> more to Speers Road in Oakville that later would become to be known as C 
> Custom Shop. In 1969, the three Canadian contenders for the Canada’s Cup, all 
> designed by Cuthbertson and Cassian were built by Erich, Manitou, Bagatelle 
> and True North.
> Bob Sale organizes 4 companies, Cuthbertson & Cassian, Hinterhoeller Yachts, 
> Belleville Marine Yard and Bruckmann Manufacturing in 1969 into C Yachts 
> Ltd.
> 1984, C Yachts had been bought by Jim Plaxton and Bill Deluce. Erich steps 
> away from the boat building industry but not far. Mark, Erich’s son soon 
> starts up Bruckmann Manufacturing in 1986 in the old Metro Marine shop on 
> Bronte Harbour.
> Erich passed away in 2011 from tuberculosis that he had contracted as a child.
> 
> Motion Designs Limited
> 647 990 7752
> Please trim your messages before sending to the list.  Thankx
Please trim your messages before sending to the list.  Thankx

Stus-List Re: Rudder issues

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Firefly (C 27 III) has a similar problem. We installed set screws for the 
drain holes which allow the 2-3 cups of water to drip out in the fall. Sealed 
with Vaseline when the set screws go in at spring launch. No issues this way.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 5, 2022, at 12:31 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List  
wrote:


Thank you, Spencer.

Makes sense. I'm in south Florida, so we never get a freeze. I drilled a couple 
more holes, dug around with a screwdriver, vacuumed it a lot, and have had my 
heat gun blowing in the area for about 3 hours now...at a safe distance.  Its 
seems pretty dry, but I'm going to let her set in the sun for several days. 
Fortunately, I don't think its to bad. The upper 75% seems very dry since I 
drilled out one of the foam fill holes when they made it.

Overall I think I roll with this fix and monitor it next time I haulout.

Really appreciate having this group to turn to for advice and stories.

Regards,
Brian

On Wed, Jan 5, 2022, 12:04 PM Spencer Johnson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Brian...I replaced my rudder in 2018 after years of bringing it home over 
the winter to let it drain out of the rudder-shaft connection.  I gave up and 
had Competition Composites (cci.one) in Ontario repair it.   Their computer 
scanned the rudder, removed the fiberglass and foam confirming that the SS post 
was in good shape (because of the black/brown tarry ooze that came out of the 
rudder I was relieved), then they scanned the shaft.  After cleaning it all up 
they used a CNC milling machine to cut two halves of hard Divinycell foam - 
inside and outside - then packed with epoxy.  The outside was covered in 2 
layers of fiberglass mat, vacuum bagged, then faired and primed.  Some pics:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bz49si3Z0GdDd2sxVXNHV1Iwc0E?resourcekey=0-mxt2XK3szmOGKjPR91NARA=sharing

They have a video of the process on the website.  Cost was about 3k but the 
exchange rate US to CDN was quite favorable.  Shipping was not cheep...a crate 
cost about $100 and was very well made.  Rudder weight dropped in halffrom 
325 to 150 lbs...much easier to reinstall!

Brianif your boat is outside in the frozen tundra you can be sure it won't 
just get better.  I had the yard use G-Flex on the shaft to rudder 
joint...water still got in.  So, not a matter of IF but WHEN.  For me...I was 
done removing the rudder each fall and taking it home so it would not freeze.  
The new rudder is solid peace of mind.  Good Luck!!

Spencer Johnson
84 LF38 "Alegria"  #165
Racine, WI / Waukegan, IL



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 25 MKII - Smiling?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Strongly recommend smile repair be done with material that is somewhat 
flexible. The keel does need to move somewhat.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 4, 2022, at 9:59 AM, David Swensen via CnC-List  
wrote:


I will add my two cents. I received great advice and guidance from members of 
this list when the keel on my 35-3 was swinging in the wind, and leaking like a 
sieve. I would agree that because you do not have any water making its way into 
the sump, your seal is good, and tightening the bolts to spec, with 1/4 inch 
backing plates,  should snug up your keel. Don't assume that water is not 
trying to make it's way into the crack at the seam, so I would grind that out, 
fill, glass, and fair, then use an epoxy primer before applying bottom paint. 
If your bolts snug to spec, then you can feel good about the other end of them 
being secure in the lead keel.
This fix is totally doable by yourself.  My 35-3 required more intensive repair 
of the keel stub (Thanks Dave S and Doug for your guidance), but my cost to 
repair was a small fraction of the quote  I received from the boat yard ($1700 
in materials and ~80 or so hours of my time vs. $16-20,000 for the yard to do 
it).  If your bolts are currently at spec, then I would look at lateral 
stability as Dave S suggested.  Your material cost would be much lower, as I 
needed 15 gallons of polyester resin to rebuild my keel stub/mast step.
David Swensen
s/v Freya 35MK3
Beverly, MA

On Mon, Jan 3, 2022 at 6:39 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I think you said it was not leaking water from the outside into the bilge. If 
that's the case then the seal is still OK. I think if you do the repair you 
will be good to go. If you sell and move on to something different the new 
owner will have to fix it anyway and that will likely reduce considerably what 
you get for the boat  and it may not interest a buyer as is. The fix doesn't 
look too complicated from what i can see in the photos.

On Mon, Jan 3, 2022 at 6:16 PM Stephen Kidd via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
These responses are super helpful! Four years in, we remain novices, which 
makes it hard to even know the questions to ask. No matter the approach we 
take, it is clear that replacing the washers and adding backing plates is part 
of the project. I was a little perplexed by the aft keel bolt washers and 
unsuccessfully poked around the internet for a while trying to figure out if 
that was normal or something done by a previous owner.

We did have a soft grounding in mud on the side of a channel while motoring 
back to our marina this fall (in full view of everyone, including incoming 
flights to DCA, of course). We were going pretty slow and ended up 
drifting/sliding off, but physics is tricky, so I have no idea what was going 
on down there. About a week later we had the boat hauled and transported by 
trailer to her new home about an hour away. Maybe that loosened things up? 
Luckily we now have better access to boatyards. We've had folk from two take a 
look at the keel while the boat was in slings (our new marina and another 
boatyard), but have not had a formal survey. While we got an estimate for the 
keel-drop/re-bedding, both suggested that the tightening/filling route is an 
option. There is also the "another boat" option to consider. It is greener, and 
just on the other side of the fence.

So, my new question is, if we do have keel bolt degradation, bolt hole 
elongation (not entirely sure what this is, but it sounds dire), or structural 
damage to the sump, would we still expect wiggle after tightening? In other 
words, if we tighten the keel bolts and wiggle ceases, has the problem most 
likely been resolved?

Thank you for the insights!


From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2022 12:35 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: 25 MKII - Smiling?

I have to agree with Dwight on the backing plates, ESPECIALLY the aft most one, 
I think. It looks like they cut the edges off the stack of washers, so the nut 
would fit in that tight space with a socket. I can see where the washers 
rotated with the tightening, and are chewing into the fiberglass big time. 
Maybe a 3/8” plate that just fits into that space, then either a short piece of 
heavywall SS Pipe as a spacer and then a couple washers, or take that stack of 
washers and orient them correctly, and compress them with a bolt onto the 
backing plate, and have a welder fuse them together with a TIG without getting 
it too hot. Just enough to keep them from rotating. Then put in back in and 
tighten it up to specs.


Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie, PA


On Sun, Jan 2, 2022 at 3:32 PM Stephen Kidd via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Happy New Year! We're hoping to get some insights on an issue we are having 
with our keel. We recently had our 25 MKII 

Stus-List Re: Messages rejected

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Pretty sure C did not design the Winssurfer.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 5, 2021, at 3:43 PM, JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My bad, I guess I should of sent a link
> 
> JKC
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> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   
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>   Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: Captain's Log: Stardate 11276.2

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Thanks for sharing your voyages, Captain.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 6, 2021, at 4:39 PM, Matthew via CnC-List  wrote:


Sad day.  If you left a manual or device on board, someday you may have to give 
them a “piece of the action.”

From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 2021 4:33 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Stus-List Captain's Log: Stardate 11276.2

Captain's Log: Stardate 11276.2
This was the final cruise of the Starship Enterprise (NCC-1701-B) under my 
command. This ship, and her history, will shortly become the care of another 
crew. To them and their posterity will we commit our future. They will continue 
the voyages we have begun, and journey to all the undiscovered countries, 
boldly going where no man, or no one, has gone before.

https://forums.sailinganarchy.com/uploads/monthly_2021_05/262982986_01Scan10043.JPG.6fbb5975e3cbfdabb3489ace4df4267f.JPG


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL













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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Balsa core history

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Really interesting and thorough explanation. Thank you!

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2021, at 1:07 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Thanks Rob for your detailed response.  I would love to learn more on the topic 
if you can provide links to any of the testing or procedures described for 
installing Baltek Balsa, I'd be most grateful.

My boatyard fiberglass guy works weekends fixing Sea Rays.  Mostly problems 
with brand new boats.

I'd also love to hear stories regarding your time at Hunter.  Different market 
than C but their designs were so inovative with their step up transom w 
storage lockers and aft head and aft cabin interiors and interior liner that 
formed a wiring chase.  Construction in Forida must have presented a different 
challenge than building in Canada.

Thanks,
Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C 34R, Annapolis
On 09/17/2021 12:09 PM Robert Mazza via CnC-List  wrote:


Interesting conversation, and thank you for asking for my input. Apologies for 
a late reply though, I've been up to my eyebrows, on behalf of the Marine 
Museum, in organizing the upcoming Canadian Sailing Hall of Fame Inductions on 
October 3rd in Kingston.

I started my career in the marine industry designing with C in the late '60s, 
and finished it in sales and marketing with Baltek in New Jersey from 2003 to 
2011. I thought it was appropriate to wrap up my career with Baltek, since 
balsa core was such an integral part of my design work with C It felt like 
closing a circle. However,the Baltek offices at the time being only 45 minutes 
from Manhattan was also a consideration.  What has been discussed to date is 
essentially accurate.  The Kohn family did escape from France in the early days 
of the 2nd WW and established business in New York City. Jacque Kohn spent time 
among their balsa plantations in Ecuador increasing the production of balsa 
wood, which at the time was considered a "strategic material" for the war 
effort, specifically for use in Navy carley floats and liferafts, and as 
mentioned previously for the Mosquito fighter/bomber, the wooden wonder. 
However, it was planks of flat-grain balsa that were used as a coring material 
in the fuselage between laminated birch skins, not end-grain. The fuselage was 
laid up over male molds in two halves then joined together after the electrical 
and hydraulics had been run down each side of the fuselage interior. Most of 
this work was done by women.

After the war, of course, demand for basa plummeted, resulting in a search for 
new markets other than model airplanes and fishing floats. One large market 
that developed was for insulation in LNG tankers, but that too died out with 
the development of new shipping methods. The story of Everet Pearson and the 
invention of end-grain balsa through Alex Lippay  is essentially true, but 
others were also experimenting with end-grain balsa as a core, specifically in 
the aircraft industry. Adding a scrim to blocks of end-grain balsa allowed the 
material to be applied in 2'x4' sheets and allowed the sheet to contour to the 
shape of the deck initially and then hulls. The advantage of end-grain over 
flat-grain as a core material, of course, is the exceptional increase in both 
compression strength and shear strength. End-grain balsa is essentially a 
honeycomb. The use of end-grain balsa between two load bearing skins created an 
engineered panel not unlike a three dimensional I-beam. It greatly increased 
stiffness and reduced weight compared to a single skin glass panel of the same 
strength. Initially it was used extensively in decks only. The first use in a 
hull laminate was with the building of Red Jacket in 1965 (see latest issue of 
Good Old Boat). It was Alex Lippay who guided Cuthbertson & Cassian and Erich 
Bruckmann in the building of Red Jacket. Bruckmann, of course, had never built 
a fiberglass boat in his life, let alone the most advanced composite laminate 
todate! Back in 2003 when I told George Cuthbertson that I was joining Baltek 
he asked me if Alex Lippay was still there. Alex, of course, had passed away 
many years ago, but was still  immortalized at Baltek in the designation for 
the precoating on balsa which was known as AL-600. Jacque and Margot Kohn, then 
in their '80s, were also still there, but had recently sold the company to 
Alcan, and were phasing out of the operations. Both Jacque and Margot, too, 
have since passed away. Working at Baltek was an amazing experience and I still 
maintain close friendships with the people who were there, most having worked 
their whole careers with the company. It was literally a family run business. 
The Alcan acquisition, and subsequent later acquisitions, of course, changed 
that, and the company suffered because of management by people who often did 
not understand the lumber business.

With the success of Red Jacket, C Yachts was created in 1969, and all three 
builders (Bruckmann, Hinterhoeller, and Morch) embraced balsa core 

Stus-List Re: surveyor around Ottawa, ON

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

John Morrow @ BYC.

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 5, 2021, at 2:22 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List  
wrote:


Hi,

I will need to have an insurance survey done before the next season. Would 
anyone have a recommendation for a surveyor in the Ottawa, ON area?

Thanks

Marek

1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: any Bruce anchor users?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Firefly has a Bruce. Very effective.

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 23, 2021, at 10:59 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
wrote:


I use a Lewmar that's the same as a Bruce, but much cheaper.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Mon, Aug 23, 2021 at 7:44 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Someone on my street is selling a 33 pound real Bruce for $150.  I think it 
will be an improvement over my Danforth. Any Bruce fans?

Joe
Coquina
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   Thanks - Stu
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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: Steering cable

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

You need someone nimble and experienced!

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 12, 2021, at 1:45 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
wrote:

 A friend at our yacht club had his steering cable snap the other day.  I had 
been planning a steering system lube and check for a few years and this 
motivated me to move it to the top of my priority list.  While I was lubing and 
checking yesterday, I found one spot with broken wires on the cable.
1.  I was hoping to replace it in the Fall/Spring when the boat is out of the 
water.  Should I be more worried and plan to do it sooner?  There is plenty of 
intact cable, but I don’t know what causes these breaks and if they are an 
indication of imminent failure.
2.  the area under the pedestal is inaccessible without removing the pedestal.  
Obviously that is a big job, which I have never done.  Is it possible to 
replace the cable without removing the pedestal?  Would I be smart to hire 
someone to do this job (PITA for me, but easier for someone experienced)?
Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: New Foresail.

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I had a good experience with them a few years ago. C 27 main.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 11, 2021, at 5:04 PM, Brian Morrison via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 I recently used FX Sails. Delivery is expected within the next 2 weeks - 
fingers crossed.

Brian Morrison

On Jul 11, 2021, at 12:58 PM, Dale Hazlehurst via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Precision Sails has served the cruising community for many years with superb  
sales staff and high quality sails. They're located in Langford BC. You may 
want to review their site prior to making a decision. You can find them on 
youtube and facebook both, this will give you a pretty good overview of their 
product and customer support.

cheers
Dale


Precision Sails: New Sails Custom Designed for Your 
Sailboat

https://www.precisionsailloft.com



On Sat, Jul 10, 2021 at 11:31 PM DJ via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Yea, it can be quite a task getting pricing from the various sources.   I've 
done it before.

The first time, i used porpoise sails in Florida and got a used head sail and a 
new main.   I had no idea what i was doing and the prices were great.

The second time,  After a lot of quotes, i ended up using a local loft.  With a 
boat show discount, their price was very competitive.   Not as competitive as 
rolly tasker though.  However, they were quantum sails.   Very nice sails!

The last time i used precision sail loft.  Great pricing and very customizable 
with sail cloth options and added features.  I got a 135% for my 40 foot tartan 
for about $3300 delivered and i got the best level with all the added features 
like, added rows of stitching and reinforced everything!  The lowest level 
would have been just under $2000 IIRC.  I wouldn't hesitate to use them again.  
When i Googled the loft address it showed the same address for quantum sail 
loft.

More recently, i did some research on a main sail and got pricing from neil 
pryde  that was very competitive.  They made my existing main sail and when 
I'm ready I'll probably be going with them for the new main sail.  I have the 
Shafer boom furling system and they already have the design on file.  That 
might be why the price was so good.

It's really not an easy task and you should probably get into by getting a 
bunch of quotes and learn what the different prices represent.  Or, just get 
the cheapest.  I guess it depends on how much of a hurry you're in.  The boat 
shows are usually a good place to start.

Danny

On Jul 10, 2021 11:36 PM, Dave S via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
This year I  ordered a ‘performance cruising’ radial cut #2 Genoa from rolly 
tasker sails in Thailand - second sail from them, no regrets at all.

Dave
33-2

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 10, 2021, at 10:22 PM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Im looking online for a new foresail for my 1980  34 C  New prices run from 
$2 to $4,000.  Where do I start?

Get Outlook for 
Android
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   

Stus-List Re: Insurance survey - surveyors

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

John Morrow @ BYC

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 5, 2021, at 7:05 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List  
wrote:


Hi,

All this talk about the surveys, ...

Any recommendations for surveyors around Ottawa, ON?

Thanks

Marek

1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON



Sent from my Android-based can on a string


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Best Head Pump Lube

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I use vegetable oil. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 22, 2021, at 8:24 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Super Lube. It is a Teflon-based lubricant. Recommended for head pumps by 
> Peggy Hall (aka. Head Mistress).
> 
> Marek
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Randal Stafford via CnC-List  
> Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2021 12:58 AM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Randal Stafford 
> Subject: Stus-List Best Head Pump Lube
> 
> This is kind of a shitty subject, but I'd like to hear y'all's 
> recommendations for lubricant for the shaft of a Jabsco manual head pump.  
> Mine's getting squeaky and stiff.
> 
> Thanks,
> Randy
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurraydata=04%7C01%7C%7C556e6488350f4b2a12a808d91d1c7e23%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637572830481391508%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000sdata=4Bt2yT3eRRjbDaFXmglhMDrPOySOU%2FfYlgXs%2BDk72sM%3Dreserved=0
>   Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   
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>   Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: How is this boat related to C?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

It’s the Mirage 24 that is a close cousin.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 14, 2021, at 1:42 PM, Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 To my eye, the Bob Perry influence shows up in the long cockpit.  The boat 
looks like an Islander above the sheerline.

Cheers,
Randy

On May 14, 2021, at 11:30 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

There is a Mirage 33 across the dock from me (and a friend has a 35, which is 
the same with a reverse transom), and it is definitely very different from a 
C below the waterline. Nice boat and a nice interior.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, May 13, 2021 at 3:06 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1985/mirage-35-3695321/

It says a Bob Perry design, but that REALLY looks likes a C
???


Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA


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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: clogged head hoses

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I believe a couple of teaspoons of vegetable oil beginning and mid season is 
good for gaskets and seals.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 3, 2021, at 2:01 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Vinegar isn’t likely to fix an already clogged head, but flushing some every 
now and then is a great preventative measure. It also works on RWC engines to 
flush deposits out before they get too bad. Every now and then I run my exhaust 
hose into a trash can full of vinegar and also run the engine water intake hose 
into the same bucket and let go round-and-round until it gets nice and hot.
Joe
Coquina

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: Water along toe rail

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

They are called baggywrinkles. Old cotton rope works well.

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: James Hesketh via CnC-List
Sent: April 29, 2021 10:55 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: James Hesketh
Subject: Stus-List Water along toe rail

A while back there was a discussion about using wicking material to suck up the 
standing water that gets trapped along the toe rail to carry it outboard.

What it the best wick material for this?

TIA

Jim Hesketh
Whisper C 26
Miami, FL

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: handrail

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Mine (27-III) werebRobertsons

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 17, 2021, at 2:02 PM, General Gao via CnC-List  
wrote:


Hi Dwight, do you remember what kind of screw head it was? I tried to look 
through the deep small hole, couldn’t see it clearly...tried all kinds of 
screwdriver and could not get it to work.

Bo


On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 12:48 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I have a 1974 35 MKii. There are 2 additional brass screws in each leg. Some 
will break because they probably have dealloyed. I did this exact job about 10 
years ago. Still good

On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 10:26 AM General Gao via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Thx everyone for chiming in!

My apologies I had thought I added my boat model in my signature, mine is a 
1974 C 35 Mk2.

I would agree with you, it would be extremely unlikely that there was no wood 
screw used; besides, who would put through holes on the cabin if they did not 
intend to use screws to fasten the handrail from inside? I used flashlight, and 
I also used screw driver to poke inside the holes, I couldn't find anything. I 
will try again today.

But if anyone had worked on the same model of boat, I'd appreciate some kind of 
confirmation.

Regards,

Bo




--
1974 C 35 MK2
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: midship cleats on aluminum rail?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Agreed. Carry a spare specifically for this purpose.

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 11, 2021, at 6:00 PM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List  
wrote:


On several nasty nights I used my hefty Wichard snatch blocks for midship 
tether (to keep me off the dock, attached to a neighboring spring piling) and 
other times for springlines.  Just clip 'em on to wherever you need on the 
toerail.  Works great.


Chuck Saur
517 490-5926 Cell


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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: Galley/Nav Drawer Parts Source

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Try Lee Valley woodworking catalog.

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 18, 2021, at 12:51 PM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Looking for a source of the parts to repair a drawer from the Nav Station, 
specifically the plastic corner pieces that join the front to the sides.

Photos linked below:
Photo 1 - the corner piece that is not broken, I need a piece like this on the 
other 
side
Photo 2 - back 
corner
Photo 3 - drawer 
overview
Photo 4 - drawer construction 
materials

PSA - if you put too much hardware in a drawer and the boat heels in heavy 
seas, it can all slide at once and break out the front of the drawer and spill 
everything out onto the cabin sole. /end PSA

Cheers y'all. Any help you can offer is appreciated.
--
Tim Rutherford
1981 C 36-1 KCB Chamame'
DIYC - Tampa
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Gorilla clear tape is fabulous.

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 17, 2021, at 11:52 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List  
wrote:


I used Six10 on my keel joint at West's recommendation. Haven't hauled yet to 
see how it has held up, but it seemed to work well enough. A bit difficult to 
work with, but I don't have much experience with epoxy. I use it without the 
mixing nozzles for small jobs, including some holes in the deck, but I noticed 
it is still not quite thick enough to prevent levelling out, so I had to tape a 
plastic piece over the top to keep it flush with the deck.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Feb 17, 2021 at 8:34 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
There is a West equivalent to the Thixo Flex.  Also fits in a caulking gun.  I 
believe it is 610.  Same nozzles.A couple bucks more, but available most places 
that sell West.

Joel

On Wed, Feb 17, 2021 at 10:08 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Learned these things the hard way:

The 3M heavy duty shipping tape is a great product and available everywhere and 
doesn't leave a residue like duct tape.  After the epoxy cures, it peels right 
off and will leave the final surface smooth.

If you use 404 High Density Filler instead of 406, you'll find it is heavier 
than air and doesn't blow around like 406.  The same when sanding, the dust 
falls instead of blowing into your lungs or onto the neighbor's boat.

A small wet vac is a must on the boat for any of this work.  I like a 6 gallon 
with big strong motor like 4.5HP peak and I add the extra long hose.  I glued a 
piece of carpet to the bottom so it doesn't scuff the deck or cabin sole.  I 
keep a paper bag in it and I can position the machine in the middle of the boat 
and reach from bow to stern.  Be mindful where the exhaust is pointed.

Another great product I started using is Thixo Flex, a flexible epoxy in a 
caulking cartridge from Jamestown Distributers.  It provides a 45 minute 
working time and there's much less waste.  The two parts mix in the nozzle and 
when you're done, you release the trigger and let the product cure in the 
nozzle tip.  When you want to use it later, just change the nozzle and start 
again.  Extra nozzles are cheap.

Chuck S


On 02/17/2021 9:17 AM Matthew via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Ron:

I have found that black Gorilla “duct” tape works well, although I may try the 
3M mailing tape someone suggested.  Also, if you are using West System, before 
you put in an epoxy mixture (like colloidal silica), you are supposed to “wet” 
the surrounding area first to ensure a strong bond.  (The exception is cotton 
filler, which is not as strong but will weep epoxy into the surrounding area.)  
Wear a good filter mask when mixing colloidal silica.

Bigger, open holes are handled differently than bolt holes.  For example, when 
I replaced my deck fills last year (about a 2 inch open hole), first I removed 
some of the wood deck core exposed by the hole.  I could have wetted the wood 
with a disposable paint brush -- I like the plastic bristles, which do not fall 
off during application – but instead I decided to tape the entire hole 
underneath with Gorilla tape.  I then filled the hole with epoxy, went down 
below and removed the tape while using a container to catch the epoxy draining 
out, used the same epoxy for the colloidal silica mix, then troweled the mix 
back into the deck core area where the wood had been removed.  There was no 
doubt about wetting the surface using this method.  The colloidal silica mix 
was a mayonnaise consistency and did not need support underneath while it 
cured.  When the mixture cured, I used one of those round sanding drums that go 
into your drill to smooth the cured surface, then installed the new deck fills.

If you’re just doing bolt holes, on the other hand, no need for colloidal 
silica and all that fuss – just tape underneath and pour straight West System.  
Use the slow hardener, and MAKE SURE THE TAPE FULLY COVERS THE HOLE AND IS ON 
FIRMLY (or you will have a big mess on your hands).  You’ll lose a little 
volume after the pour as the epoxy works its way into the wood core.  I usually 
go back and top it off.  If you lose a lot of epoxy, something is wrong – check 
the tape.  If there is no leak at the tape, some internal communication is 
going on.

Good luck.

Matt

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2021 8:16 AM
To: 

Stus-List Re: C 27 Association Website

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Good idea to preserve the resources.

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 13, 2021, at 10:43 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List  
wrote:


Stu; Thank you, I  was wondering if the photo album could accommodate the 27 
site; let me know if there is anything I can to do help, thanks again

Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596;
Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Stu via CnC-List 
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Stu 
Sent: Sat, Feb 13, 2021 9:12 am
Subject: Stus-List C 27 Association Website

It is a shame that the C 27 site is going to shut down.  There is a 
tremendous amount of information there.

If someone from the Association is in a position to backup the site, please let 
me know and I will try to incorporate as much as possible into the Photo Album. 
 There is just too much information to try to download page by page.

This is a resource we do not want to lose.

Stay safe & healthy
Stu

From: Peter Fell via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2021 4:03 AM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Peter Fell
Subject: Stus-List C 27 Association Website Shutting Down

Attention C 27 owners - in case you are not aware (and apologies if this has 
been posted before) the C 27 Association website is shutting down sometime 
this month. Last chance to copy any sections of interest. I'm going to attempt 
to make an offline copy of the entire site.


http://www.cc27association.com/index.html

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 Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: Maintenance that makes the boat work easier

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Shout out to Stu and the list and the folks on it. Probably no list any better.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 27, 2021, at 9:59 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List  
wrote:


That all helps a lot if your halyards are led to the cockpit. Mine are and what 
you say is what i have been doing for years. But what really helps best with 
hoisting the mainsail is to have someone pumping the halyard at the mast. It’s 
a real piece of cake then to tail halyards through the clutches.
I think Allianna was built with winches and cleats for the halyards on deck 
close to the base of the mast.  I modified with blocks at the base of the mast, 
turning blocks on deck a little further aft to get the best angles to clutches 
on the coach house and winches aft of the clutches because i want to do what 
needed doing without leaving the cockpit
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 1:42 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I'd like to share something most of you know but some may not and it's 
something I learned the hard way.  Before hoisting sails for the first time 
this season, check that all your blocks and deck organizer sheaves turn 
properly and the sail tracks are clean.   Use a finger to check that the sheave 
turns freely in each block.  Things work easier if everything actually works, 
and if you do this the sails will thank you.

Earlier I reported that I raise the mainsail on my 36 ft saiboat by hand.  Well 
I couldn't do that when I first got my boat and needed to use a winch on 
halyards.  My sailing friends told me that was normal and winches were always 
necessary to hoist such large  sails.  My mainsail weighs only 55 to 60 pounds, 
so I thought they might be wrong.  Later, I spent some time checking all of the 
mast base halyard blocks and freeing a few frozen sheaves in the deck 
organizer, I found I could raise the mainsail by hand very easily.  These 
sheaves are deceptive when frozen and allow a halyard to pass unimpeded 
initially when there is no load, but once the strain comes on, if they are 
frozen, the halyard becomes bar taught and the job requires a winch.  I also 
learned from reading the winch catalog that the largest loads; the genoa and 
main halyards work best if reeved along the most direct path to the right side 
of a winch drum.  So now I pick the clutch directly in line with the right side 
of the Starboard winch drum for my main halyard.  All my winch drums turn 
clockwise.  My genoa halyard is reeved through the clutch directly in line with 
the right side of the Port winch drum.   I run the spinnaker halyards through 
the outermost clutches and all the other lines have lower loads so can be run 
as you like.  And I label the clutches.

I also hoist the Genoa by hand onto the furler and because I clean the foil 
grooves and spray the sail tabbing with MackLube, it goes up pretty easily.  
The lube also allows easy adjustment of the halyard tension when shaping the 
sail while sailing.  I usually pick a lightwind day and extend the genoa 
halyard so I can wrap the tail round the winch drum and lead it to the bow 
where I feed the sail into the groove as I pull the halyard.  I can clear any 
snags as they develop and the sail goes up happy and quick.

So clean and lube your winches and the clutches too.
Mark your halyards so you can repeat proper settings.
These things make operating the boat so much easier.

Sorry for the long rant.

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Pasadena Md


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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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  Thanks - Stu
--
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: Screw removal

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Good advice

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 18, 2021, at 5:05 PM, Don Newman via CnC-List  
wrote:


Try the old timer's trick.  A brace and Bit.  You can apply a great deal of 
force to prevent the bit from jumping out and at the same time a lot of 
rotational force.

On Thu, Jan 14, 2021 at 9:11 AM Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Adam

SS screws in aluminum are probably now fused togetherno amount of 
penetrating oil will loosen them.   Drilling them out and tap new treads after 
is one option.  An impact driver is another optionyou might get lucky with 
the impact driver and not have to tap new treads but I wouldn't count on that 
...the impact driver may also break the screws as they are fused to the 
aluminum.

I took a stanchion and stanchion base off last year using an impact driver but 
a few of the screws broke off, had to be drilled out and new treads.  Luckily 
for me a fellow club member who is also a machinist (retired) did the latter 
part.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2021-01-14 7:29 a.m., Adam Hayden via CnC-List wrote:

Hello

I am in the process of ordering new spreaders and the supplier asked to send 
the old bases so the holes can be properly aligned.

The spreader bases are attached by screws.  I have soaked with penetrating oil 
this evening and will soak over night.  I will bring a torch over tomorrow.   
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.  I would prefer not to have to 
drill them out.

See the attached link

https://photos.app.goo.gl/RuDjmDNgWMELrcoR6

Thanks
Adam
C 36
Pictou NS





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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
  Thanks - Stu


--
Don Newman
C 44
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: Screw removal

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

You can buy spray bombs which spray super cold – useful in breaking bonds.

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Alan Liles via CnC-List
Sent: January 14, 2021 2:42 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Alan Liles
Subject: Stus-List Re: Screw removal

I have found, when using heat, I first heat the screw very hot, then squirt 
water on it to cool it rapidly. It seems the shock of rapid temperature change 
breaks the bond.
I have been consistently impressed by my 1/4” impact driver. It pops out 
fasteners that look corroded and seized quite easily.
Occasionally nothing works. Then you may have to relocate the whole bracket and 
redrill the holes.  Trying to drill out small stainless fasteners in aluminum 
with a hand drill is hardly ever successful.

Cheers, Al
SV Elendil, C 37/40+
Vancouver


> On Jan 14, 2021, at 11:24 AM, Chris Riedinger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>
> I'll fifth the impact. But only if the threads are clean and no corrosion on 
> the fasteners (because they'll just break)
>
> Otherwise, heat is more your friend. And heat the shit out of it. Map torch, 
> oxy/acetylene, etc
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurraydata=04%7C01%7C%7C444d2b76751d44a5ebf808d8b8c4847b%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637462501460381611%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000sdata=vfoF1IYJSaWVpl0PRhlqRxfuIg8r2FRn4CwNI3bZ9cY%3Dreserved=0
>   Thanks - Stu
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  Thanks - Stu

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Stus-List Re: C Rendezvous at Maritime Museum in Kingston?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Agree on the idea but  wait for a while.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 8, 2021, at 10:36 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:


I think it’s a great idea, Dennis. By the summer of 2022 I will have quit 
working and be ready for an extended cruise.  NC to Toronto, and then join the 
southern migration after the rendezvous. Maybe get a couple of C owners to 
crew with me for some of the trip segments?

Rick Brass
Washington, NC


On Jan 8, 2021, at 8:20 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Rather than several competing "on the water" rendezvous's, I keep thinking 
about a big? C rendezvous at the museum in Kingston.  Paid event with 
proceeds to the museum for the C document preservation.  Fall 2022, perhaps?  
Long lead time to let the museum get going?

Crazy idea?

--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
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  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Don’t forget the Marvel Mystery Oil!

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 24, 2020, at 4:57 PM, Paul Wyand via CnC-List  
wrote:


Yes the atomic 4 is rated at 30 HP but no one uses it near its HP peak level of 
RPM. So most people in sailboats use about 18-20 HP of the usable 30. Some of 
the older power boats may have revved that engine up to the HP peak level. I 
don't think I ever pushed mine over about 2200 rpm so that was around 18 HP to 
move my C 33. Great engines, last a LONG time. But they are all getting long 
in the tooth now.

On Mon, Aug 24, 2020 at 3:53 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I believe the difference is between rated HP and shaft HP, which is generally 
lower after things like transmission loss, accessory loads, and friction.

IIRC, an A4 was rated as 30HP, but the shaft HP was something like 17or 18. 
Which is why an2 cylinder Yanmar is a suitable replacement foe an A4.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC


From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Joe Della Barba via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 2:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba mailto:j...@dellabarba.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed


What the heck is a 13hp Atomic 4? Mine is 30 HP.

Joe

Coquina
On 8/24/2020 1:26 PM, Daniel A. Willis via CnC-List wrote:
My 1973 30' Mk 1 had a 13hp atomic four but was re-engine 12 years ago with a 
20 hp Universal. She stops on a dime and handles very well with all that power. 
I suspect some might simply have been re-powered over the years as our Santiago 
was.



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Re: Stus-List 25 mk II Not level in the water

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Hull differences between 25-1 and 25-2 mirror the changes between 27-2 and 
27-3. Sharper lines, more modern keel and rudder shape.

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 20, 2020, at 10:34 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:


Five or six years ago the USCG increased the figure used for the weight of the 
average passenger when doing stability calculations for commercial vessels. 
Both the boats I captained had a reduction in the allowed number of passengers 
on the renewed Certificate of Inspection … the 83,000 pound schooner not so 
much but the aluminum dinner boat went from 69 to 62. I think the current 
weight figure is 165 pounds.

Three crew at 165 pounds is 12.4% of the displacement of my 25 mk1, so I think 
you may have identified why your 25 mk2 is slightly bow down when empty.

But that makes me curious as to why my 25 mk1 sits with the cockpit sole level 
when she sits on her lines (so any water disappears into the scuppers), while 
the water that collects on the deck because of the rocker of the sheer lines 
seems to be centered about 3 feet forward of the transom.  Anyone have thoughts 
on an explanation? Does the Mk2 have a swept back keel like the mk1? And could 
that explain it?

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stephen Kidd 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2020 7:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stephen Kidd 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 25 mk II Not level in the water

Thank you, Richard and Bill! It's good to know it isn't anomalous.

Probably because my attentions are elsewhere, I hadn't thought to check if 
things level out when I have three others in the cockpit. Three or four people 
would be over 10% of empty displacement. I'm wondering if this is the sort of 
thing that would be considered in the design.

Again, I greatly appreciate the input! I'm glad I asked before attempting any 
interventions. I'll try the wick idea for the companionway puddle.

Regards,
Stephen
25 mkII, 566
Washington DC


On Wed, Aug 19, 2020, 11:20 PM Richard Bush 
mailto:bushma...@aol.com>> wrote:
Stephen, I had a 25 II which sat low in the bow also; like you I had no gear or 
other weight forward, so I assumed it to be designed that way...perhaps, Rob 
Ball can shed some light on this?

Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1095 C 37 CB: Ohio River Mile 584.4;


Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Stephen Kidd via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stephen Kidd mailto:stephenk...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Wed, Aug 19, 2020 7:31 pm
Subject: Stus-List Not level in the water
I've noticed that my little boat, a 25 mkII, is uneven in the water. The bow is 
probably 1-2" lower in the water than the stern when at the dock.
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Re: Stus-List Water Collecting Along Toe Rail

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

See baggywrinkle

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 15, 2020, at 1:16 PM, Cam Lubbock via CnC-List  
wrote:

 I figured it has been. Thanks Dennis, that’s an easy solution!

Can

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 15, 2020, at 12:29 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:


This has been discussed numerous times.  Most of us just put a piece of cotton 
line or a sponge through a hole in the toe rail to wick the water over the 
side.  I use lantern wick.  It is not recommended to drill deck or toe rail to 
drain the water.

  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Sat, Aug 15, 2020 at 11:20 AM Cam Lubbock via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello All,

I’m guessing I’m not the first one to have this issue, but I haven’t seen it 
posted since being a list member.

My C 38 mkII has the usual toe rail with the holes all along it. The holes 
are about a 1/2” above deck level so only large amounts of water drains from 
them. There are scuppers next to the cockpit but they are a few inches inboard 
from the rail, and with the sloping decks, they also only drain water when it 
gets high. There seems to always be a bit of water sitting along the rail at 
the low point, and it makes a bit of a mess of the deck when I’m away from the 
boat and not able to sponge it up.

Does anyone have a simple solution besides tearing the deck apart to lower/move 
the scupper or drilling through the toe rail which would weaken it? Or should I 
just let evaporation do it’s thing and scrub the deck there whenever I can?

Thanks,

Cam
1976 C 38 MkII Checkmake
Parry Sound, ON, Canada




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Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Kaenon,Serengeti, Maui Jim, Billie

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 9, 2020, at 5:04 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> After wearing prescription glasses since age 3, I'm getting lens implants and 
> will be able to toss Rx glasses.  I can now buy off the shelf sunglasses.  
> Wow!
> 
> What are your favorites for sailing?  For clarification, lens specifics and 
> perceived efficiency as well as brand and model information will be helpful 
> to me and perhaps to others but my specific purchase will most likely be a 
> pair with nose pads as the bridge of my nose is very narrow.  The wide bridge 
> plastic frames just don't work for me.
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Re-power and prop for 1981 C Landfall 38

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Your Atomic Four in good shape will attract a buyer.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 30, 2020, at 2:29 PM, Bailey White via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I have a little envy of diesel boats as I have a 36 with atomic four and a 
> reversing gear that has been a challenge for two years.  I've found the issue 
> after working with a local mechanic, but it looks like it will require the 
> engine to be pulled to fully correct.  At least I have learned to dock and 
> pick up moorings well, but it is not recommended.
> 
> We may have a workaround shortly, but it has made me think of moving to 
> something like a used 30GM Yanmar.  Besides cost and my interest to spend on 
> sails instead, my other hesitancy is noise and vibration.  I sail on Lake 
> Lanier in Georgia, so fuel efficiency is not a concern as I can't travel all 
> that far.  The atomic four is pretty pleasant to cruise on a windless day, 
> and I wonder how much louder and more vibration a diesel would bring.
> 
> Bailey White
> 1979 C 36
> Atlanta, GA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List installing plastic anchors in fiberglass

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Hair dryer trick sounds like good advice.

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Matt Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: June 25, 2020 11:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wolf...@erie.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List installing plastic anchors in fiberglass

I tried something different on my 34 years ago.  Most of the screws holding the 
forward hatch were getting loose and, of course, the reason was wet core 
underneath.  I drilled out all of the screw holes (oversized a bit) and dried 
the core where necessary using a trick taught to me by my West System guru.  
Take a suitably sized Tupperware container, remove the top (throw it away), and 
cut a hole in the bottom the size of a small hair dryer nozzle.  Place the 
hairdryer nozzle into the hole you cut, tape it in place with duct tape, tape 
the hair dryer contraption in place on the deck over the wet core holes, and 
let it run for a while (low heat setting will prevent it from overheating).  I 
needed to move the contraption around to dry various holes in my case.  Once 
you’re satisfied the core area is sufficiently dry, you can then repair.

What I did differently in this case was, instead of screwing back into cured 
epoxy (or using plastic anchors), I bought some stainless inserts for machine 
screws and epoxied them in place.  (Yardley product as I recall.)  When I was 
finished, I could unscrew the machine screws to remove the hatch.  Because the 
inserts were epoxied in place and isolated from the core, I didn’t worry much 
about the seal at the deck after that.  It was a lot of extra work (not sure it 
was worth it), but the forward hatch was solidly connected to the deck and I 
never had a problem.

Matt Wolford
C 42 Custom

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 6:39 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List installing plastic anchors in fiberglass

I'd overbore the holes, coat the wood with neat epoxy (no thickener) using a 
cotton swab or equivalent then fill with epoxy thickened with microfibers.  
Redrill and use new screws same size as the original.

I don't like using thickened epoxy without coating with neat epoxy first.  You 
don't get as good a bond and you may leave gaps.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Wed, Jun 24, 2020, 2:51 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Guys,

The fiberglass sea good that covers the cabintop window and companionway slider 
on my 34R is attached with a dozen #8 x 1" wood screws.  The holes for these 
screws penetrate the balsa core of the cabintop and were sealed with white 
caulk.  There is no way to through bolt it.  I'm planning to overdrill the 
holes to 3/4" and fill with Thixo flexible epoxy and then drill the holes to 
1/4" to take plastic masonry anchors.  The SS wood screws will like these 
anchors, be removable and the core will be better protected from water 
penetration.  I'm trying to decide between using plastic masonry anchors made 
for wood screws, or screw in threaded fittings and use machine screws.   Or 
maybe I should drill and tap the epoxy and use machine screws?  Any better 
ideas?

Masonry anchors:
https://www.kimballmidwest.com/All-Products/Fasteners/Anchors/Tubular-Screw-Anchors/483072

Threaded fittings:
https://www.grainger.com/category/fasteners/thread-insert/self-locking-inserts?cm_sp=Product_Details-_-Categories_Based_on_Your_Search-_-IDPPLACAT

Thanks,
Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R, Pasadena Md
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Re: Stus-List C 29 Teak Hand Rails and Mainsheet Bridge Traveler

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Pleased with my Harken windward-sheeting traveller installed just in front of 
the companionway 27-III.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 23, 2020, at 12:09 PM, Eric Templeton via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Looking for recommendations on a Mainsheet Bridge Traveler to open up the 
cockpit / companionway area.

Also looking for replacement Hand Rails (Teak, 6 loop, about 75” length with 12 
in centers for mounting.

C 29 Mk1 1979

Eric


-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Eric Templeton
(C) +1.630.261.5873
etchic...@yahoo.com
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

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Re: Stus-List New plastic plumbing fixtures

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Trailer dealers

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 19, 2020, at 12:56 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I want to replace my now 25 year old galley and head sink fixtures with more 
modern ones--the picture Dennis sent of his head redo showed nice white plastic 
types.

Any suggestions from the list on where to look for some?

Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom
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Re: Stus-List 37/40 wine storage

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Know of a guy who had one of his water tanks filled with Mount Gay – it was a 
new boat.

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: June 19, 2020 12:28 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37/40 wine storage

People store wine on a boat?  On Touche' we worry more about where to store the 
empty bottles!  :)
--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List C 35 Mark III

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Our 27-III, Atomic 4, Martec . Always in reverse when sailing.

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: June 17, 2020 7:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Abbott
Subject: Stus-List C 35 Mark III

George,

I have had my boat for 15 years and always put in reverse when sailing...the 
original owner did the same...if it isn't broke, don't fix it.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.
On 6/17/2020 3:47 PM, George Cone via CnC-List wrote:
I thought over the years the accepted recommendation was to put it into Reverse?

George Cone
1981 C 40




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Re: Stus-List strange noise

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Adjustable prop with sticking blade?

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 16, 2020, at 9:02 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
wrote:


That’s a good suggestion.  Also, the strut – but if it was shaking that much, 
you would probably have water too!
My  rope cutter was making sounds last summer, with a missing bolt.

Bill Coleman
Erie PA

Maybe a loose shaft anode

On Tue, Jun 16, 2020 at 8:27 AM Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Maybe a failed motor mount?

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jun 15, 2020, at 11:44 PM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>
> 
> HI All,
> The other day while motoring at about 6.5kts we noticed an intermittent 
> thumping near the stern. It sounded like a crab float was bouncing off of the 
> hull. we slowed and the noise became quieter. Thinking there was actually 
> something thumping on the hull we came to a complete stop and even backed up 
> some, no help. We spent the weekend anchored in Liberty Bay. on the way home 
> the same noise, I looked at the rudder quadrant and could not see anything. 
> Upon arrival back at my slip I dove on the boat and could not see anything 
> unusual.
> Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks in advance
>
> Doug
>
> --
> Douglas Mountjoy
> 253-208-1412
> Port Orchard YC, WA
> Rebecca Leah
> C LandFall 39
> ___
>
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>

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--
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Universal water pump

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Excellent explanation. When I check my impeller in the spring I just massage it 
with Vaseline.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 9, 2020, at 10:11 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Typical closed/freshwater/glycol loop pump with standard metal impeller.
> 
> See attached photo.
> 
> Josh 
> <8e603537-45f9-4ab0-8ea5-be34b3778838.jpeg>
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Cabinetry Parts - Fiddle Castings

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

You might try Lee Valley Tools catalog. Another guess, Restoration Hardware.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 8, 2020, at 5:28 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
wrote:


This one?

https://southshoreyachts.com/shop/round-corner-grab/

Ken H.

On Mon, 8 Jun 2020 at 17:57, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Well, here's a situation where I should have asked the question first.

Took the fiddle castings, shown in a picture, to a local powder coating shop. 
Today I received a call that the castings are apparently aluminum and were 
melted in the process. The shop offers to replace or credit for damage.

Do we have a source of fiddle castings?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JjZzOnMrnAmHXdP5bMxcjVZc5KY12nQT/view?usp=sharing

Many thanks in advance.
--
Tim Rutherford
1981 C 36-1 KCB #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Water in rudder

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

My experience -27 Mk III - has been to drain rye rudder each fall, I drilled 
holes and put set screws in for the season. About 2 cups is what drains out. 
Has worked for 20 years so far.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 8, 2020, at 7:42 AM, Nathan Post via CnC-List  
wrote:


Seems to be a normal problem and from all the feedback on this list I decided 
to leave it alone rather than replace or attempt a rebuild and I just make sure 
I drain it in the winter.  I am pretty sure that the metal components in my 
rudder are already encapsulated based on a few exploratory holes I drilled and 
latter filled with thickened epoxy).  For the first two winters I drilled a 
hole into the foam near the bottom (about 3 1/2 inches up from the bottom in 
the middle of the rudder on my C is where the foam starts) and let it drain 
for the winter on the hard - then patched with epoxy and some barrier coat 
followed by bottom paint in the spring.  The first year, I also drilled a hole 
near the top but this didn't seem necessary as the water will eventually come 
out of the foam either way.  This spring I decided to install a removable plug 
which I made myself using https://www.mcmaster.com/50785K213 and 
https://www.mcmaster.com/4429k111 (I cut the pipe fitting in half and only used 
one end).  Drilled hole with appropriate hole saw, cleaned it up and bonded the 
fitting in using 5200.  I thought about using epoxy but figured that with 
different thermal coefficients the 5200 might be better.  I'll barrier coat and 
paint over it as usual.  Hopefully in the fall when back on the hard I can 
simply unscrew the plug and the pipe fitting will stay put.

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn MA
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Re: Stus-List 34+ traveller relocate

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Ask Garhauer or aharken for advice.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 2, 2020, at 7:06 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
wrote:

 Glen

Our traveler is just forward of the binnacle.  I think it was a custom factory 
job.  Seems solid but I have no idea if the parts where it is anchored were 
reenforced or not.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/tombuscaglia/923cyW

Tom B

Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com

At 03:19 PM 6/2/2020, you wrote:
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 02 Jun 2020 14:56:30 -0400
From: Glen Dickson 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List 34+ traveller relocate
Message-ID: <44942616-5e97-4557-9862-58d694938...@contoso.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Looking for guidance. Has anyone moved the traveler on a 34+ aft to the 
binnacle area? The boom is almost 15? long, and the traveler is only 5? from 
the mast, giving horrible purchase upwind. Looking to move it closer to end 
boom sheeting, but worried about structural integrity to support the traveler.



Glen Dickson

Nomad 1

C & C 34+? #51

Frenchman?s Bay Yacht Club

Pickering, ON Canada



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Re: Stus-List instrument panel idiot light BUZZER going on cyclically, all switches OFF

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Gremlins

Sent from my iPhone

On May 31, 2020, at 5:47 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
wrote:

 Ghosts or Demons

At 02:31 PM 5/31/2020, you wrote:
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 16:31:06 -0500
From: Nate Flesness 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List instrument panel idiot light BUZZER going on
 cyclically, all switches OFF
Message-ID:
 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Our 1980 30-1 has the original 2QM15 and instrument panel. Last night on
the mooring, the warning buzzer above the usual three idiot lights started
going off, intermittently - 15 or so seconds on, 15 or so seconds off,
repeat. The big red switch was OFF, the ignition switch was OFF with the
key on its usual in-cabin hook, the engine was not running, and there
should NOT have been any power to the buzzer!I The oil pressure light
glowed faintly when the buzzer was buzzing. I repeat, the engine was not
running and the ignition was OFF. We've had this Good Old Boat 15 years
now, this is new.

Today, mystified, I disconnected the buzzer, to avoid further annoying the
neighbors. I had some tranny work done recently, maybe the installers
bumped the wiring or something..,. ??

I assume some short somewhere? Any ideas? I faintly remember a
short-finding recipe on this wonderful list many years ago, anyone remember
it?

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
St. Croix River Hudson WI
and
Raven
Tartan 31
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


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Re: Stus-List bilge etc.

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Be interested to hear other comments.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 31, 2020, at 2:03 PM, General Gao via CnC-List  
wrote:


Hi everyone,

Just had an insurance surveyor come over to the boat today, it is "generally" 
good, but the surveyor did find one thing that he suggested me to verify with 
the marina manager (who has the same boat as mine, 1974 C Mk2). Please refer 
to the picture attached.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1iFpiwA-8iAY6WaI6o7lz5gGeMSkgJFzP

I put text in the picture. I had thought the bilge where the bolt is sitting at 
would be steel, only today I have realized where it says "wood" is made of 
wood. The surveyor thought the wood was loose and "rotten" and therefore the 
floor on top is not properly supported, though this is not safety related in 
his view, it needs to be fixed.

What do you think? is this something serious?

Thank you in advance.

Bo
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Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

It’s a 12oz. spray can. Go to an auto shop.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 20, 2020, at 7:39 PM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 So send us a pic or link - searching for cold in a covid year doesn’t work!



On May 20, 2020, at 4:28 29PM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

When faced with seized metal joints sometimes alternating heat and cold helps. 
There’s a spray COLD blaster.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 20, 2020, at 5:26 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Mine used one 1/4" bolt through flange landing on woodruff key, and two 
additional 5/16" bolts on flange landing directly on prop shaft. I use PB 
Blaster on each of the bolts, and carefully backed them out slowly (SS bolts, 
steel one piece flange), which worked well after waiting a day or so after 
applying PB Blaster. One loose, the flange rotated without much trouble, but I 
didn't remove entirely due to clearance issues, so I aborted my plan of 
removing the transmission. Cleaned up threads on flange and bolts with tap & 
die and re-installed with nickel anti-seize.
PB Blaster is my top choice for penetrant, having used it successfully on many 
very stuck fasteners over the years.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com<mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, May 20, 2020 at 1:29 PM John Christopher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
All,

Thanks for all of your gracious feedback, approaches, and experiences.

Checked to see if there were multiple set screws, etc. everything looks good 
from that standpoint.

Removal continues to be an issue. I left the puller on the coupler with 
pressure. Put some penetrating oil in the set screw holes and shaft entry, 
taped Over holes, and rotated shaft. Said an “our father” Prayer and left for a 
day. I’ll be back at the boat tomorrow. Next consideration will be cutting and 
replacing shaft and coupler :(.

Launch is approaching fast with access to marinas now open...

Wanna go sailing :).


/John

On May 20, 2020, at 9:24 AM, Bill Coleman 
mailto:colt...@gmail.com>> wrote:


Also, sometimes there is a set screw on top of the set screw for those who like 
a belt and suspenders approach.

Bill Coleman

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of Paul Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 7:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Paul Fountain; John Christopher
Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

John,

Done this twice, and it’s getting done now, the first time, used a socket 
aligned with the prop shaft and bought some Grade8 bolts long enough to go then 
the coupling halves, and kept evenly tightening them to press the shaft out ... 
every time the set screw hole got to the top we added penetrating oil. Two 
days, and two of us working on it it came off. Put in a drip less then.

Second time, I cut the coupler piece on the shaft with a Dremel tool and 
replaced it. This was as part of an engine replacement.

This year, 17 years later, the dripless needs to be serviced so have a mechanic 
doing it, shafts released as of today, the first time I have been allowed to 
visit the boat this spring.

Where abouts are you in Ontario?

Paul Fountain
Perception II
1985 C 33-II k/cb
Port Credit Yacht Club


From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of John Christopher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 7:23:17 PM
To: CNC CNC mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: John Christopher mailto:phygi...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

All

I’m trying to install a a PSS shaft seal on my 1983 Landfall 38.

got reasonable access to V-Drive transmission , got everything ready , but 
could not for the life of me remove shaft coupler , its really stuck on shaft , 
and of course I need to be able to remove the shaft partially from boat to 
install the dripless .

I used everything I had including a 5 ton puller on shaft coupler using an 
impact gun on the puller bolt screw at one point and it never budged AT ALL. I 
Heated coupler with electric heat gun still never moved ..cant use gas torches 
because the transmission seal is right there and it will get ruined.

Everything requires removing coupler first to proceed foward with dripless.

Boat is freshwater all it’s life, and I know they are dissimilar metals (SS 
Shaft, steel coupler, bronze key (?).

Am I missing something? Is there a bolt or otherwise  somewhere that I am 
missing?

Thanks,

John

1983 Landfall 38, #155
Ontario Canada
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Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

When faced with seized metal joints sometimes alternating heat and cold helps. 
There’s a spray COLD blaster.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 20, 2020, at 5:26 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List  
wrote:


Mine used one 1/4" bolt through flange landing on woodruff key, and two 
additional 5/16" bolts on flange landing directly on prop shaft. I use PB 
Blaster on each of the bolts, and carefully backed them out slowly (SS bolts, 
steel one piece flange), which worked well after waiting a day or so after 
applying PB Blaster. One loose, the flange rotated without much trouble, but I 
didn't remove entirely due to clearance issues, so I aborted my plan of 
removing the transmission. Cleaned up threads on flange and bolts with tap & 
die and re-installed with nickel anti-seize.
PB Blaster is my top choice for penetrant, having used it successfully on many 
very stuck fasteners over the years.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, May 20, 2020 at 1:29 PM John Christopher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
All,

Thanks for all of your gracious feedback, approaches, and experiences.

Checked to see if there were multiple set screws, etc. everything looks good 
from that standpoint.

Removal continues to be an issue. I left the puller on the coupler with 
pressure. Put some penetrating oil in the set screw holes and shaft entry, 
taped Over holes, and rotated shaft. Said an “our father” Prayer and left for a 
day. I’ll be back at the boat tomorrow. Next consideration will be cutting and 
replacing shaft and coupler :(.

Launch is approaching fast with access to marinas now open...

Wanna go sailing :).


/John

On May 20, 2020, at 9:24 AM, Bill Coleman 
mailto:colt...@gmail.com>> wrote:


Also, sometimes there is a set screw on top of the set screw for those who like 
a belt and suspenders approach.

Bill Coleman

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Paul Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 7:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Fountain; John Christopher
Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

John,

Done this twice, and it’s getting done now, the first time, used a socket 
aligned with the prop shaft and bought some Grade8 bolts long enough to go then 
the coupling halves, and kept evenly tightening them to press the shaft out ... 
every time the set screw hole got to the top we added penetrating oil. Two 
days, and two of us working on it it came off. Put in a drip less then.

Second time, I cut the coupler piece on the shaft with a Dremel tool and 
replaced it. This was as part of an engine replacement.

This year, 17 years later, the dripless needs to be serviced so have a mechanic 
doing it, shafts released as of today, the first time I have been allowed to 
visit the boat this spring.

Where abouts are you in Ontario?


Paul Fountain

Perception II

1985 C 33-II k/cb

Port Credit Yacht Club


From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of John Christopher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 7:23:17 PM
To: CNC CNC mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: John Christopher mailto:phygi...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

All

I’m trying to install a a PSS shaft seal on my 1983 Landfall 38.

got reasonable access to V-Drive transmission , got everything ready , but 
could not for the life of me remove shaft coupler , its really stuck on shaft , 
and of course I need to be able to remove the shaft partially from boat to 
install the dripless .

I used everything I had including a 5 ton puller on shaft coupler using an 
impact gun on the puller bolt screw at one point and it never budged AT ALL. I 
Heated coupler with electric heat gun still never moved ..cant use gas torches 
because the transmission seal is right there and it will get ruined.

Everything requires removing coupler first to proceed foward with dripless.

Boat is freshwater all it’s life, and I know they are dissimilar metals (SS 
Shaft, steel coupler, bronze key (?).

Am I missing something? Is there a bolt or otherwise  somewhere that I am 
missing?

Thanks,

John

1983 Landfall 38, #155
Ontario Canada
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Re: Stus-List Keel movement in C 24

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Good thinking and execution!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 24, 2020, at 7:57 PM, Chris Bennett via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Josh and Rob - thanks for your comments. I did torque the bolts while in the 
> water after reading a convincing post about how little extra torque is needed 
> to overcome the weight of the keel (think of the leverage of each bolt's 
> screw thread).  The suggestion for a much heavier keel only worked out to 10% 
> more torque. I also figured the keel's weight distribution would be more even 
> that way too because the keel is a little tricky to block evenly on land. 
> That said, I would not be surprised if when I haul it and block it that it 
> will tighten up a little as Josh suggests. I believe I can see all the keel 
> bolts - there is one that is a tight fit under the compression post pad.
> 
> Rob - I used a 4 by 4 post and a screw jack to replace the compression post 
> temporarily after loosening the rig. This allowed me to remove the post and 
> repair the aluminum base casting. I then rebuilt the step. The underlying 
> plywood pad was solid but had bowed in the middle, so I tabbed it in below to 
> prevent it sinking further and then built it back up level with fibreglass 
> and epoxy before adding a 1/4 inch aluminum plate cut to fit under the post 
> base. Interestingly the base was full of large shim washers almost to the top 
> - must have been done that way by C because their compression posts were 
> too short for some reason. I removed one shim washer to compensate for my 
> increased base thickness and all went back together just fine. 
> 
> Chris  
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Keel movement in C 24

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Your boat is very similar to a Mirage 24. Anything on their website of use?

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 20, 2020, at 12:16 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
wrote:


Hi Chris

While I believe Surveyors know an awful lot about boats and their construction 
they can sometimes make an error.

We had a Hinterhoeller Niagara 26 (which is basically a C based on who built 
those boats).  Early on we noted water seeping into the boat around the keel 
bolts.  Tightening the keel bolts while in the water eliminated the leaks.  
When we hauled at the end of the season and boat was in the slings we noted 
movement from side to side similar to what you described.  Rebedding the keel 
and retorquing the keel bolts resolved the issue completely.  It is possible 
that perhaps surveyor may have been incorrect about the cause of the keel 
movement.  I would suggest that in the slings you check this out yourself and 
get a second opinion from a qualified expert at the same time.  It may well be 
that the surveyor is correct and the movement is caused by hull flexing but it 
also may simply be loose keel bolts.

The 24 is a fairly small boat.  The construction is very similar to the Niagara 
given that George Hinterhoeller ran both construction facilities.  In our case 
there was sufficient length on the bolts for us to back off the nuts approx. 2 
inches on each and then jack up the boat those same two inches.  This left a 
gap between hull and keel sufficient to clean out the joint.  We then used a 
generous amount of 3M 5200 and lowered the boat back down on the keel and 
torqued the bolts.  Never leaked again and the movement was entirely gone.

Your situation may very well be different but the entire cost since the boat 
was hauled anyway was that of a tube of 5200.

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
1987 Frers 33 #16
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com


From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Robert Abbott via 
CnC-List
Sent: April 20, 2020 12:42 PM
To: Chris Bennett 
Cc: Robert Abbott ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel movement in C 24

Chris:



Inside, check grid structures and interior pans for cracks, from the pics I 
think I can see some cracks. Probe all grid, pan, floor, step, and bulkhead 
bonds with your flexible blade.

Should your inspection reveal hull damage or weakness, you’ll need to deal with 
this first. Corrective measures depend entirely on the problem, but if the 
damage is serious, you will probably have to remove the keel. In addition to 
grinding away and replacing any fractured or delaminated glass, a full repair 
will also necessitate additional reinforcing members and/or additional layers 
of fiberglass to strengthen the damaged areas.

The mast compression is not as serious but nevertheless needs to be addressed 
as well.removal of the old and a complete rebuild is necessary.

Given what you have described and the pics, I agree with Joe, not a good idea 
to go sailing and possibly have the keel fall off.

The cost of a professional repair would probably be as much as the boat is 
worthhow much personal time and effort you are prepared to put into it, 
only you can determine.

Keep us informed.

Rob Abbott



On 4/19/2020 10:43 PM, Chris Bennett wrote:
Hi Rob,

I do have pictures but do not know how best to post them to this forum so I 
will upload them to my google drive. This is the shareable link: 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1qEfA4WHGKMVUk6bKch9X4-hXn76AR46C

The issue I believe from examining the bilge area is that my C 24 has 
stiffeners (what would be floors in a wooden boat) that help prevent the hull 
from flexing too much when the keel is put in stress (say when beating to 
windward) and that the bonding of some of these stiffeners to the hull may have 
failed. I see signs of this in three of the 'floors'.   The surveyor said that 
the issue is general hull flexing, not any cracking or failure of the lead keel 
to fibreglass joint.

 I named the pictures that you should (hopefully) be able to download from the 
above link as descriptively as I could. I use the term floors to refer to the 
transverse reinforcing areas. The floors at the forward end and aft end of the 
bilge are solid 'boxes'that have no issues. The other 3 floors (floors 2 to 4) 
from forward to aft are as follows (see overview picture and detailed pics):

2) The mast step floor. The plywood appears to have sunken and partly 
delaminated and pulled away from the sides. There is a resin and fibreglass 
strap that runs over the plywood cross piece and outboard at least 8 inches.  
The glass does not seem very thick on this one. See the pictures that show a 
clear curve that has cracked the base of the compression post casting. I 
shimmed this up last year but did not address the real issue.

3) A U shaped center 'floor' that is basically a big strap of resin and glass 
that runs down into the bilge and up the sides. The keel bolt goes through this 
strap. The pictures show a crack on 

Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Removal

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

It is a tapered key.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:22 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List  
wrote:


Hi,
Silly question here but doing some Maintenance on the crunchy  AutoHelm ST4000, 
and plenty of you tube on fixing that belt /drive.. I have an esdon Pedestal 
with the control levers (up , Down)  on each side which appear original for 
sure.
BUT the Silly Edson Wheel! after nut removal,  wheel slides out (snug but 
easily) to a certain point just past spokes, and sticks there?  Almost like its 
tapered?  You can see in picture here the Keyway ? 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ust0nvmoxir3yh2/wheel2.jpg?dl=0
Does this key need to be removed/loosened. Its not loose at all. Or do I need 
to just put little more lube and little more elbow grease? I don’t want to 
damage threads , or wheel for sure!
Need to fix this for some Solo sailing on Halcyon this week, at least that’s my 
excuse. We are allowed to sail and I intend to do so,with or without Auto 
Pilot. However, Otto driving into the wind would be nice, as it was blowing 25+ 
yesterday ! 

Thanks!

John Conklin
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Re: Stus-List Emergency tiller

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Similar experience on a 27-3. Short throw and remember steering is backwards to 
the wheel.

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 20, 2020, at 10:47 AM, David Risch via CnC-List  
wrote:


I have actually used the e-tiller offshore.  Need to remove wheel.  Make sure 
your hub is lubed!  And it works at 45 degrees off.  Lots of hip action to 
steer.  Auropilot ram really comes in handy here.

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2020 10:41:22 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Emergency tiller

Will

The emergency tiller on Persistence runs at an angle from the rudder post 
(something between 30 and 45 degrees I think).  The pedestal is NOT in the way 
but the wheel is.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Will Gerstmyer via 
CnC-List
Sent: March 20, 2020 11:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Will Gerstmyer 
Subject: Stus-List Emergency tiller

Hi,
I am impressed with the birth of the emergency tiller. However, it would appear 
that I’d have to remove the wheel pedestal to have room for it to work.
If so, does anybody have any experience doing that?? I’m also thinking 
1986–this sucker is likely to be very challenging to unbolt!
Thanks, Will
1986 C 41 Costume Change
Portland ME

Will Gerstmyer
978-609-1331
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Re: Stus-List dorade vents

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Not pretty, but 4” dis white plumbing elbows fit.

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 10, 2020, at 10:33 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List  
wrote:


After loosing two over two weekends i replaced them but drilled holes in them 
so they would not leave the boat. Works great.
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Re: Stus-List Dumb question of the day - life rings, horseshoe or cushion?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Canada requires ring.

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 2, 2020, at 5:56 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List  
wrote:


So I have a lifesling and a throwable cushion.  Yet, I see lots of boats with 
horseshoes, and commercial boats with life rings.

Is there an inherent reason for one design over another?

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+
"Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Re: Stus-List Raw Water Blocked

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Try backwashing the raw water intake .

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 29, 2019, at 12:15 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 Alera has a blockage somewhere in the raw water system.  Nothing out the 
exhaust.

 I checked the intake and the pump.  Both seem fine.  But, there seems to be no 
flow at the strainer.

I am wondering if there is some maintenance needed for the vented loop?  It is 
the next link in the chain and I’m running out of links.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660
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Re: Stus-List Great Lakes water levels...for C

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Did you get my posting re Masters FIS racing?

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 24, 2019, at 1:00 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:


There was a demonstration in front of the International Joint Commission office 
this weekend in Ottawa. People demand lowering the water levels as a 
pre-emptive move to avoid flooding next year.

Marek

From: CnC-List On Behalf Of CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List
Sent: 23 November, 2019 15:30
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Great Lakes water levels...for C

FWIW, Toronto had flooded docks when I was there in July because of unusually 
high water levels.

Chuck, Resolute, C 34R, Pasadena, Md

On November 23, 2019 at 9:42 AM "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

We are having problems on Lake Erie.  Portions of the Erie Yacht Club grounds 
were under water this spring and summer.  Even when the level dropped toward 
the end of the season, a strong breeze will change local levels and create a 
problem.  During the storm on October 31, the difference in lake level between 
Toledo and Buffalo was 14 feet.

From: pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2019 6:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: pete.shelqu...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Great Lakes water levels...for C


We have record high water levels on Western Lake Superior and I understand 
others in the great lakes are experiencing the same if not worse.   With the 
forecast unclear if this water level is a new normal or cyclical, and the fixed 
docks at our club nearing max height, I’m wondering what other clubs are 
experiencing, expecting going forward and what measures you are implementing to 
accommodate?






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Re: Stus-List Starting An Engine with Battery Charger Connected?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

It is certainly OK if the charger you are using has a “boost” feature.

Sent from Mail for Windows 10


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2019 2:53:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting An Engine with Battery Charger Connected?

I don’t know if it’s good or bad.  I do know that a couple Guest chargers on my 
34 failed before I began unplugging before starting, and did not fail after I 
began unplugging before starting.  As a result, unplugging first became my 
practice (provided I remember).  Nothing bad has happened on my 42 when I have 
forgotten to unplug first, but I have a much better charger now.  Perhaps the 
Guest chargers would have failed anyway?
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2019 10:35 AM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Stus-List Starting An Engine with Battery Charger Connected?

Listers,

I’m seeing conflicting opinions on the web and would like to know from the 
collected wisdom of the group.

Is it OK or not OK to start your engine while your battery charger is running?

I was surprised to see some people say it is not, as people have been 
jump-starting their car engines for decades, but am interested in seeing what 
you all have to say on this.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log












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Re: Stus-List Gone off topic Star Trek

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Peace, out.

Sent from Mail for Windows 10


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Robert Gallagher 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, September 27, 2019 10:58:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Robert Gallagher 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gone off topic Star Trek

Obviously they have not or this C36MKII would have been identified and photon 
torpedoed by the Enterprise.

The Orville on the other hand is be worried as it’s a far superior vessel 
with a far superior captain.

Rob

—-
I had not heard that the Starfleet had developed the technology to detect 
cloaked vessels.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT


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Re: Stus-List Interesting electrical problem

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Any UFO’s in the area?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 26, 2019, at 3:26 PM, Ian Matthew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have been following the list for many years and I enjoy reading the wisdom 
> of this group.  I have an interesting problem and seek your advice.
> 
> I have an very intermittent electrical problem (in fact it has only happened 
> twice in the last 7 years.  In both cases it has resulted in electrical / 
> electronic components becoming 'blown out' with all fuses inline remaining 
> good.
> 
> The first time I suddenly lost my AM/FM radio and ALL my navigation lights. 
> The engine also stopped as I had no power to drive the electric fuel pump. 
> This happened when motoring back home at night after a long race.  
> Fortunately there was wind and a hand-held VHF and a powerful spotlight on 
> the sails allowed us to be seen by commercial traffic.  Afterwards, I checked 
> - ALL the incandescent bulbs that were on had blown, but the fuses were OK.  
> The radio had internal circuit board components blown but again the inline 
> fuses (there are 2) were OK.  In the case of the fuel pump, this had to be 
> replaced.
> Thinking this may have been a spike from the alternator, I replaced the 
> alternator.
> 
> Last week (3 years later), motoring back in the dark I had a similar problem, 
> but this time only my VHF radio 'blew'.  Again the inline fuse was good.  The 
> navigation lights have been replaced with LED lights and the AM/FM radio was 
> off.
> 
> I often motor after long races and this has only happened twice!
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas as to what may have caused this.  I am an engineer 
> so can diagnose most things but this has baffled me.
> 
> I am about to upgrade my VHF radio for one with DSC and internal GPS and to 
> add some wind instruments.  (I have a Raymarine knotmeter/depth meter 
> combined, and a EV-100 autopilot.)  I want to separate my electronics 
> electrical input and have considered putting them on an isolated battery, but 
> charging is a problem.  Is there some circuit protector I can put in place to 
> stop this happening again?
> 
> All suggestions welcomed.
> 
> BTW - for those of you with 29 mk 1's - you can race them competitively in 
> strong winds (as is usual on San Francisco Bay) - keep the boat flat and have 
> a really good crew!
> 
> 
> -- 
> Ian Matthew
> "Siento el Viento"  C 29-1
> San Francisco Bay
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List America's Cup

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I loved the IC 37 event. Real people on real boats. Even made real mistakes we 
can identify with. Hope this concept becomes more popular.

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 18, 2019, at 9:34 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi Neil,
I’m going to have to side with Charlie on this one.  There’s no shortage of One 
Design regattas, perhaps the most relevant having been raced last weekend, the 
NYYC Resolute Cup, a Corinthian competition between amateur sailors from Yacht 
Clubs around the globe.  All sailing identical Melges IC37 boats.  It was very 
important racing for those clubs involved but received little interest outside 
of some industry related press.
The America’s Cup has ALWAYS been a race that pitted crews and yacht designers 
and engineers, even from the very first competition.  When J Class, 12meter and 
ACC class boats were involved, there was always a “box rule” that allowed for 
creativity and design enhancements that would allow for innovation.  Without 
that innovation, we would never have molded sails, carbon fiber spars, or 
lightweight high modulus yacht ropes that are so popular with today’s racers.

I’ve been a big AC fan ever since the 60’s and thought back then that Intrepid 
was the absolute pinnacle of sailboat racing design.  I would sit in middle 
school classes and try to duplicate her lines, her trim tab and rudder, drawing 
with a pencil using a French curve.  It fascinated me how different that boat 
was than all the other 12meters.  Where else but in a competition with 
virtually unlimited budgets would that sort of innovation be incubated and 
brought to fruition?  Think of how Ben Lexan’s winged keel threw the monkey 
wrench  into the world of sailboat design and it still finds its way into shoal 
draft keels on modern boats.  That would never happen if the Cup was strictly a 
one design event.

My only regret is that the Cup competition no longer has a strong foundation 
with regards to home grown sailors.  The free agency of international talent 
with little regards to national representation has diluted the passion with 
which our country follows the event.  With such a domination of Aussie and Kiwi 
sailors in the cup, we appear to have lost the will to train local skippers and 
crew to reach for that gold ring of excellence that was once held by Dennis 
Connor, Bus Mosbacher, Paul Cayard, and even Bill Koch.  How to change that 
will depend on who winds up winning the Cup in this upcoming addition, but it 
is somewhat comforting that the US based challengers are using our country name 
to identify the syndicate rather than their corporate sponsor.
Go Defiant!
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Neil Andersen via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2019 8:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Neil Andersen 
mailto:neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List America’s Cup

Sorry, I’m with Charlie.  AC races should be about crews, not engineers.

I’m all in favor of engineering breakthroughs, but the competitors should all 
be in the same boat and the race test the crew and cut of their sails.

Neil
1982 C 32, FoxFire
Rock Hall, MD

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661


From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2019 10:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER
Subject: Re: Stus-List America’s Cup

Defiant looks awesome. They stated in a video that the boat foiled in her first 
90 minutes of being on the water. The video shows her turning at speed and 
looking very steady proving they are doing many things right. I'm a huge fan of 
Americas Cup cause it pushes the possibilities of sailing, keeps designers and 
builders busy, and is very entertaining. Foiling has been around a while but 
recent developments have produced foils that work at low speeds like standup 
paddle boards and even surfboards. The other night I watched an hour long 
documentary of Larry Ellison winning the cup back from the Swiss several years 
before the foiling catamarans. I also watched a video of a guy in Truro, 
England (Poldark area) building fifty foot Pilot Cutters in wood and training 
young people to be builders. BTW, my boat takes her name from an Americas Cup 
defender of 1920, Resolute. She was short on the waterline with a bigger than 
normal sailplan and struggled but kept the cup. She was gaff rigged with three 
headsails and designed by Nat Herreshoff who designed and raced the first 
catamaran and designed the first fin keel w bulb. If he were alive today, I'm 
sure he would be testing all the cutting edge materials and designing foils.

The new AC boats 

Re: Stus-List engine oil

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Would not hesitate.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 30, 2019, at 1:47 PM, Wade Glew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986 Yanmar 
> 2GM?
> 
> Wade
> Oh Boy 33 MK II
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Re: Stus-List too many wires for in-pedestal? Is that why people network?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Do you have a pedestal guard? Lots more room for cabling there. When we 
installed ours on Firefly -C 27-III, we pre-wired for the future.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 27, 2019, at 3:53 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm trying to add a sirius satellite weather receiver to my existing 
> Raymarine Es7 display, which is ram-mounted on top of the pedestal and has 
> AIS fed from a down-below VHF receiver. (I managed to do that myself awhile 
> back).
> 
> So one side of the pedestal tube I filled very full with AIS cabling plus 
> power for the Es7, and I just realized the other side is full too, with (an 
> older) autopilot connection, plus binnacle light power. I can't fit another 
> Raymarine custom-headed cable, needed to connect to the SR200 Sirius 
> receiver, in either side.
> 
> The options I can think of are:
> 
> 1. Maybe combine the binnacle light and ES7 power cabling to make a little 
> more room on one side. Might possibly be enough...
> 2. Invest more $$ and install a Seatalk network connector, which I THINK(??) 
> means the AIS and Sirius signals could get to the Es7 display via a single 
> cable? Can anyone confirm this? I have the question into Raymarine support, 
> but waiting 
> 
> I have no plans to add more stuff to a network, and am one of those retired 
> semi-IT guys who is NOT at all excited about playing with boat electronics
> 
> Any suggestions or advice?
> Many thanks
> 
> Nate
> 
> 1994 Tartan 31 "Raven"
> SIskiwit Bay
> Lake Superior
> 
> 1980 C 30-1 "Sarah Jean"
> St. Croix River
> Hudson WI
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List rust proof a gauge?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Have you tried chrome polish or automotive rust remover?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 10, 2019, at 12:20 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My fuel pressure gauge in finished in chrome and it is getting rusty around 
> the perimeter. It is not available in a painted black finish like some other 
> gauges from the same vendor. A new gauge is about $35, but I don't want to 
> just buy a new one every 3 years or so. Is there some kind of 
> paint/varnish/clearcoat/something I could paint on there to prevent this from 
> happening again?
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Shaft Log leak on C 29 MkII

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Pull the engine, seal the shaft hole and mount a good outboard on the transom. 
Friend getting many more mile out of a Cal 25 that way.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 27, 2019, at 8:46 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi all,


A friend of mine just discovered why her C 29 MkII was leaking.  Water was 
coming in near the hose that supports the Prop shaft packing gland.  She hired 
a mechanic to pull the shaft and replace the hose which everyone thought was 
split.  Once the shaft was removed, the hose was found to be OK but the 
fiberglass tube, the shaft log, has a crack.  (I have not seen it)


The boatyard estimated $10K to replace the fiberglass tube which is more than 
the boat is worth, and it's a really nice boat and she wants to sail it, not 
sell it or donate it.


I have some ideas about fixing the problem but thought I'd ask the consortium 
for advice.  Anybody ever tackle a cracked shaft log?  I'm also looking for a 
way to test the repair for leakage before launching.


I thank you in advance,

Chuck S





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Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Garhauer

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 25, 2019, at 11:30 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Listers,

My rigid boom vang has seen better days and I’m looking to do a replacement. 
Can anyone recommend a good option for a boat in the 37-40’ range that won’t 
break the bank?

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY
Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log










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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Good advice well put.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 12, 2019, at 6:10 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Tom,

Good advice so far.  <35 feet end for end.

My most important advice = train your crew, and especially your helmsperson, to 
visualize the boat turning under the chute.  NOT the chute coming across the 
boat.  Have your crew visualize the chute going dead downwind without changing 
aspect.  The boat just turns back and forth at an angle to the chute.

Practice with your crew in light air.  Have the helmperson make slow, smooth 
turns.  Let the bowman make the pole on the mast.  The bowman stands just to 
leeward of the mast with the new sheet in one hand and the trip line in the 
other hand.  The downhaul and twings (tweakers) get released.  On the command 
"gybing", he releases the pole jaw from the ring, slaps the new sheet in the 
jaw, swings the pole across while releasing the old sheet (new guy) and makes 
the other jaw on the ring.  "Mast - sheet - sheet -mast".  At the last "Mast", 
the main is gybed.  The boat should be about halfway through the turn.  Slow 
turn.  Slow.

If the bowman is having trouble, slow or even stop the turn until the pole is 
made on the mast.

I'm not a big guy.  I've been doing foredeck for many years.  It's a 
choreography between bowman and helmsperson.  The helmsperson has to LET the 
bowman do the gybe.  The bowman should dictate the speed of the turn.  Too 
often, the helmsperson wants to complete the turn before the bow work is 
finished.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jun 12, 2019 at 2:23 PM Tom Lynch via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi all,

I’m looking advice/recommendations on symmetrical spinnaker jibing on my 33 MK 
II

I’ve got a single set of spinnaker sheets

Should a deploy and add lazy sheets and guys?
Or use a twinning line barber hauling system

How to handle the baby stay?  Should I disconnect it and To facilitate a Pole 
dip or do pole end for end jibing.

Appreciate anyone’s thoughts and opinions on this subject.

Tom Lynch
IndoIrish
C 33 MK II
Bayfield Wisconsin.

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Re: Stus-List Sail Shackle

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

In a pinch white plastic plumbing elbows can do.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 10, 2019, at 11:13 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Few Maint. Items
I Looked through several catalogs and no luck
Think this is called a sail shackle  from Track slide ( Is OK )  to sail (Need) 
one is busted
Where do I find this piece?
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1D2WOotswcj0hq2kJ59dHk3D5N3OIPOX0

and a vent cover ?? from water fill ?  all I find are  are clamshell style  
this one had straight flat 3 sides
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VaWAS9XDA6GhQ_DlSY6jZDeJUTBcHTKC

Much appreciated !!

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon

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Re: Stus-List Oft overlooked source of head odor

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I pour antifreeze down the hose.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 26, 2019, at 9:02 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

One thing I read from Peggy Hall the Head Mistress is that pouring antifreeze 
in to th head and pumping it out is insufficient to winterize the head because 
no water is drawn in through the intake hose.  This makes sense to me,  but i 
think it may depend on the design of the particular head.

Just a thought,

Bruce Whitmore



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
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Re: Stus-List Maximum/Optimum Rudder Travel

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

That’s one of the great features of these designs.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 23, 2019, at 8:22 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

And that 36 degrees, in both of my C (a 27 MKII and my current 37/40+) have 
been enough to turn the boat in its own boat length going down a fairway 
between docks.

More than enough maneuverability in my opinion... :)

Thanks Rob!

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net



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Re: Stus-List Did C ever use deck-stepped mast?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I had a tabernacle made for my 27-III that made it very user-friendly.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 8, 2019, at 9:05 PM, James Hesketh via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My 26 is deck stepped; just had to replace the support in the bilge for the 
> King Post.
> 
> Jim Hesketh
> Whisper
> Miami, FL
> 
> 
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> 

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Re: Stus-List Universal engine coolant drain plug

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Moyer Marine should be able to spec that.

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 31, 2019, at 2:08 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I need to drain the coolant from my Universal M4-30.  The drain plug in the 
photo I have from the manual is near the dip stick on the side of the engine I 
can reach but can’t see.  The photo in the manual is pretty useless as I can’t 
see what it is pointing to.  Does anyone know more precisely what it looks like 
(size?) or a way to find it by feel (or another way to drain)?  Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Special recipe?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Lemon oil tends to clean anyway.

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 26, 2019, at 9:12 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

No precleaning required – but then not much activity below during the season

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 9:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Special recipe?

Do you clean it first?  If so, with what?

From: John and Maryann Read via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 8:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John and Maryann Read
Subject: Re: Stus-List Special recipe?

Lemon oil.  Inexpensive.  Liberally coat rag to apply.  Let stand for 15 min or 
so.  Wipe down again with dry rag.  Easy peazy no muss or fuss.  Lemon gives 
nice scent and seems to deal with mildew well.  Teak looks great for the 
season.  I apply each year usually in March before cover comes off so is 
comfortable down below.  Takes about 4 man hours


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT





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Re: Stus-List Traveler improvement, C 37/40+

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Garhauer can probably do a custom configuration for you.

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 20, 2019, at 9:53 AM, Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Bruce,

My cam cleats are right at the traveler (which is cabin-top on a C).  I use 
a continuous line that is long enough to bring back to the binnacle.  An 
neighbor convinced me to try it and I would not do anything different – ever.  
It allows me to control the traveler from the helm most of the time.  If I am 
racing and have sufficient crew, I can just drop the “loop” into the 
companionway so a crew member can adjust.

Neil Andersen
1982 C 32, FoxFire
Rock Hall, MD

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2019 9:43 AM
To: CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Bruce Whitmore mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>>
Subject: Stus-List Traveler improvement, C 37/40+

Hello all,

The traveler on our '94 C 37/40+ is really kind of a pain.  The original unit 
has 4 sheeves with a cam cleat on each side (two sheeves on the sliding 
traveler part, and two mounted in the end caps to the track).

Originally when I got the boat, the line then went to a cheek block mounted to 
the side of the cockpit, and then to a second cam cleat (which seemed to make 
no sense to me).  I removed that block and cam cleat, and at least I can pull 
and lock line without working it through two cam cleats.

The problem is that when the boat was built, teak decking was put in the 
cockpit, raising it up to the bottom of the cam cleat and when seat cushions 
are in place, it makes it difficult to lock the line into the cam cleat.  I 
have tried raising/putting wedges under the cam cleat to get better access 
above the seat cushions, but that increases friction through the first block.

have any of you had similar issues, and what did you do about it?

Thanks for your insights,

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
Madiera Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Re: Stus-List Lady Down...

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Sorry for all of you. Hope things work out and damage can be repaired.

Sent from Mail for Windows 10


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Chuck Borge via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2019 12:15:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Borge
Subject: Re: Stus-List Lady Down...

Unfortunately my boat was the first in line. A C that we’ve had just under 
a year.
Not a good scene.
Hoping we all come out ok.
Chuck B


Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 26, 2019, at 10:50 AM, David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

One of our brethren, Double Black, a C & C 40, owned by Adam Marks, was tumbled 
upon in the hard and fell over.  High winds, flapping canvas and un-stepped 
masts all contributed to the 3 boat domino effect.   Oddly enough the first 
boat was also a C 37/40 I believe.

Double Black attended a number of our New England Rendezvouss.

>From my Android

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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I have always wondered if you could make them from the plastic used in cutting 
boards, etc. Forget what it’s called. Any experience out there?

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 19, 2019, at 10:31 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I would not expect the rails (or any other SS parts) to be hot while sailing. I 
guess different story when you are stationary (at the dock or on anchor).

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: Dreuge via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 10:19
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.

I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go.   
While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 21:15:43 -0500
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
made to fit the original holes.

Whitewatermarine.com

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


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Re: Stus-List Refrigeration insulation upgrade?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Cans are not as tall and chill faster.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 23, 2018, at 10:57 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Caution!  Be very careful adding insulation to the bottom of your icebox lid.  
I added insulation to the bottom of Touche's icebox lid and had to switch 
beers!  Bottled Coronas and Landsharks were too tall to stand up on the grate 
and allow the lid to close.  :(

Solution?  I went to store carefully evaluated beer bottles by height.  The 
"official" Touche' beer is now Modelo Especiale.  The shorter bottles now allow 
the lid to close completely.  :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Nov 23, 2018 at 6:31 PM Jim Watts via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
The most important place to start is the underside of the icebox top, it's just 
raw plywood. The opening lid has some light foam inside the fiberglass. The 
outside of the icebox has a couple of inches of urethane foamed in place.
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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

That boat - easier to take the mast down.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 4, 2018, at 3:32 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:




Two or three climbing ascenders, climbing harness.



If you have someone to help you (belay), two is enough. If you try doing it 
solo you need the third.



Make sure that your halyards are in good shape. This step is CRITICAL.



Climb on one halyard; preferably, tied very tight to the bottom of the mast. 
Pre-stretch it as much as you can (winch). Have the helper belay you (keep the 
line almost tight) on another halyard. If you do it solo, use the 3rd ascender 
to secure you to the second halyard.



Take a few loops of some good webbing or even some line with you. You want to 
be able to secure yourself to the top of the mast. Also, you can use a loop to 
make “stirrups” for your feet, for when you work at the top.



I would not recommend doing it alone.



Never use a single or unknown line to climb the mast!!!



Btw. The weight limitation is only for you (not the mast). If you can do it, 
the mast would take it.



Make sure that you have ALL tools you might need up there.



Take a length of cord (30’) to use to get you any tool you forgot or dropped.



Make sure that you don't drop anything (short cords attached to each tool)



Good luck



Marek

Ottawa, ON



Sent from 
Mail
 for Windows 10




From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Sidney King via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Sunday, November 4, 2018 12:27:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sidney King
Subject: Stus-List Climbing the mast

Hello

I would like to add a antenna at the top of the mast for a marina radio.

Looking for advice on how to accomplish this.

I have a 1980 c 24ft sailboat.

Is there a weight limit to climb the mast?

What kind climbing gear to use?

Thank you

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Re: Stus-List Winch grease

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I use white lithium grease on the bearings, light machine oil on the pawls.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 3, 2018, at 9:46 PM, Chris Graham via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I’m performing maintenance on my Barient 18 winches and was wondering if there 
was a preferred machine oil and grease? The Lewmar grease seems expensive and 
I’d have to order it.

Chris

Sent from Yahoo Mail for 
iPhone
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Re: Stus-List cleaning off rust

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Soak them in rust remover.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 3, 2018, at 12:21 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

The nuts and bolts between the transmission and the shaft are quite rusty. How 
can I get the rust off?
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Re: Stus-List C vs. Wilma :(

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Ditto

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 22, 2018, at 8:14 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Here’s a post from Wal Bryant on Stella Blue (Landfall 38) in Mexico (posted 
with his permission); he’s in the more direct path of Willa right now:


And so it begins. Willa to the North, Vicente to the south. And me in the 
middle. (I think that's a classic quote from Clint Eastwood's 'For a Fistful of 
Dollars.')

The worry is Willa. It's going to hit to the North, and with anticlockwise 
rotation the wind and swell is going to come straight from the Southwest. The 
Bay is wide open from that direction, and yesterday Mike Michael Eric 
Danielson
 at PV Sailing said the swell forecast was for 20 foot swells. I've sailed my 
boat through 20 foot seas, and used the EFF word a few times. Having them hit 
shallow water and slam into the breakwater will be something to watch. I think 
it's entirely possible that waves will wash over the breakwater into the 
marina. The breakwater itself is relatively new, and hasn't filled in with sand 
and sediment. When there is surge outside, boats inside still move around. A 
lot.

So I spent today adding dock lines, and setting up spare dock lines, and taping 
around hatches that have leaky gaskets, and making an inventory of rope. I have 
more rope on this boat than is reasonable. People laugh at me. But once, a 
couple of years ago, a barge broke loose and I had 400 feet of rope. It came in 
handy.

As soon as I was done getting my lines and my backup lines ready, the rain 
started. The hurricane is still two days off. This is just the outer fringe.

Walking around this morning, I seemed to be the only one preparing. I saw 
someone doing brightwork (varnishing teak.) I mentioned the situation to 
someone else, and she said "We talked to Long-Timers and they said it's no big 
deal." Well, I've been in Pacific Mexico for nine years, and this is only the 
second time I've set up to get hit by sh_t. And it's the first time I've pulled 
a couple of lines over to the pilings two feet above the spring tide high water 
mark.

I've seen 50 with gusts to 70, and that was at anchor where the boat was 
pointed into the wind. I'm really not worried about wind, I'm worried about 
wind swell.

I think tomorrow a bunch of people will be running around in the rain doing 
what I did this morning. I'll be inside the boat making sure my bilge pumps are 
clear and the through hulls are closed and the last minute details are done. 
Then I'll adjust the lines to move the boat boat away from the dock, put on my 
Helly Hansen jacket and hope that the people who said "It's nothing" were right 
and I was totally wrong. I really hope that all I've done is give my spare dock 
lines a good rinse.

Let’s wish him luck.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Oct 22, 2018, at 12:16 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

https://www.washingtonpost.com/weather/2018/10/22/powerful-east-coast-storm-may-develop-friday-into-weekend/?utm_term=.a559c2294827

Yikes!


Joe
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List C 26' or 27'?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Go Garhauer

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 13, 2018, at 9:14 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I need to first replace the main traveler system. Any suggestions with a system 
that won’t break the bank?

Chris


Sent from Yahoo Mail for 
iPhone


On Friday, October 12, 2018, 10:43 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Roller furler - Profurl

sam

On Oct 12, 2018, at 5:19 PM, Chris Graham via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Gotcha!

Roller furling or hank on Sam?


Sent from Yahoo Mail for 
iPhone


On Friday, October 12, 2018, 7:16 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Chris,

I meant to say “I upgraded to New Dacron sails and changed the Genoa to a 135”

I might have got a little more speed from the folding prop, but the laminate 
Genoa sets much better and allows me to point a little higher. A laminate main 
would improve that some more. And hopefully reduce the “bubble” at the luff.

sam

On Oct 12, 2018, at 5:03 PM, Sam Salter 
mailto:sam.c.sal...@gmail.com>> wrote:

Chris,

When I bought the 26, It came with a 150 Dacron genoa and a Dacron main. After 
a few years I upgraded to new Dacron sails and changed the main to a 135. Later 
I changed the Genoa to a 135 laminate sail from Evolution Sails in Toronto.
Both upgrades improved performance (after all it is a sail boat), but the 
laminate sail was such a difference that I think I would go with a 110 if I was 
doing it again.
I still have the new Dacron main but I might go with a laminate one day.
Best upgrades:
New sails
Folding prop
Self tailers
(The folding prop might have given me more speed than the new sails)

sam
C 26  Liquorice
Ghost Lake Alberta


On Oct 12, 2018, at 8:51 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Thank you Sam!

This 26' could be dropped in tomorrow. Most issues are cosmetic with the 
exception of one stanchion and either the water fill or septic pump out cap 
(don't want to confuse the  two) LOL So some recoring in the spring but I enjoy 
that kind of work and it really is minimal. Other than that, shes good to go.

Thanks for the input. Main sail has two reef points which I am thankful for.

Chris

On Friday, October 12, 2018, 10:46:20 AM EDT, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I have a 1977 C 26.
I was looking for a 27 when I bought her.
The 26 wasn’t raced much; the 27 is still competitive!
Most (many?) 27’s have been raced hard and put away wet.
That’s why I bought the 26 - it was in much better condition than all the 27’s 
I looked at.
The 26 is a tender boat!
She does move quite well in light air.
I tend to reef early; but she still moves well, even when reefed.
I lake sail, so not sure what she’d be like in a big sea.
I’ve had 7.4 knots on occasion and high 6’s is fairly regular.
She is a roomy boat which is nice!
I have a Yanmar 2GM20F in mine with a Flexofold prop.
I’ve done lots of upgrades: self trailers / new sails / adjustable Genoa cars / 
ridged vang / etc., etc..
I like the cockpit size and tiller steering up close to the companionway with 
the genoa trimmer behind on the winches.
She’s a good, solid boat compared to the Hunters and Catalina’s on the lake.
Don’t buy a project boat - get one you can sail away!
Upgrades are much more fun than repairs.
I see too many project boats that never get in the water.

sam
C$C 26  Liquorice
Ghost Lake Alberta




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Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Just move quickly on the replacement plug. Very simple.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 11, 2018, at 10:59 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm 
using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if 
the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses will 
be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue 
(95% certain)...
That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of 
the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around 
the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only 
other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel 
with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely 
and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business 
but you guys seem to think it's a breeze...

WISH ME LUCK!

Dan

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
What Ed says.

I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing.

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Dan

You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the boat 
in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting the plug. 
If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person spinning 
the paddle and one looking at the instrument.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Thanks guys.
Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and there's 
no current lol.
I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it to get 
the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach under to spin 
the wheel manually...

Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I can 
analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for "0.0.0" on 
the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't 
turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at all? not even a 
"0.0.0"?

Dan

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint.  I did not discover the 
nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water.

From: Edward Levert via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edward Levert
Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

Dan

The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar transducer 
for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the paddle was 
clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My guess is that the 
build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal the paddle creates. 
Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve your problem.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying to 
get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is with 
the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where I'm going 
wrong?

***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" one 
that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly.

With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B nav computer and 
the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature data)

I've got:
GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly)
Black, and Shield to Ground IN
Red to Speed Voltage IN
Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN
Brown to nothing

With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no Speed. 
Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be turning to get 
speed sentences?

Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS



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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] FX Sails -- Any Good?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Bought a main for Firefly (C 27-3) which a snowbird brought back for me. 
About $750 US ten years ago. Good service from a Dacron sail for 5/6 years.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 10, 2018, at 10:20 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I would look local first.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 10:09 AM
To: John via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com>>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List FX Sails -- Any Good?

Listers,

Anyone have any experience with FX sails? Good or Bad?

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's 
Log


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