Stus-List Fuel lift pump 30-1, clean or replace with electric?

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

My 2QM15 is not getting fuel, It gets to the lift pump input but no
further. I just had the fuel polished after some crud problems, so likely
either there's crud blocking the diaphragm hole, or the new additives made
the 42 yr old rubber diaphargm  "retire".

Some years sgo there was discussion about replacing these with a car-parts
electric fuel pump.
I'd like to do that, but would love advice re wiring it and blocking off
the old lift pimp outlet.

Nate Flesness

Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Saint Croix Rivr, WI

Blue Raven
1994 Tartan 31
Siskiwit Bay Marina, Lake Superior
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Masthead unit for Raymarine I50 dislays

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Anyone know if
https://defender.com/en_us/raymarine-long-arm-forward-wind-transducer-e22079
,which says it fits I60, would fit an I50 cable?

My masthed stuff blew away last year.

Nate

1980 30-1
1994 Tartan 31
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List erratic and weak rpm

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

So my 42 years new 2QM15 starts normally (a little black smoke), but
*suddenly* she won't hold a throttle setting and wpm wanders down
erratically, sometimes more throttle helps for a few seconds, sometimes
not, then she dies,

The problem showed up at the same time I realized I had run her very low on
diesel. Have added diesel, checked air cleaner, replaced fuel filter, done
the normal fuel filter bleed, and as I said, she starts fine, but the
problem remains. I pulled the "brillo pad" filter inside the fuel tank
years ago, polished tank and fuel, and have used Biobior every winter since.

Ideas most welcome!

Nate
Sarah Jean
C 30-1
St, Croix River
Hudson WI

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Parmax1 is NOT pressure limited.
Parmax 1 Pressure Limited, is!

Nice labeling huh?
I bought the wrong one too...

Nate Flesness

On Thu, Sep 1, 2022 at 9:40 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am back to working on the freshwater pump problem.  I replaced the old
> pump (unknown age) with the same model Jabsco ParMax 1 that had failed and
> now it is pressurizing the system, so the old pump was definitely the
> problem.  However, the new pump will not shut off, even if left for
> extended time.  I can find no water or air leaks and the system stays
> pressurized enough to get water from the sink days after running the pump,
> so it does not seem to have a leak on the outlet side.  I am stumped as to
> why it will not shut off.  Suggestions?  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2022, at 3:17 PM, Chris Riedinger 
> wrote:
>
> The new shurflo is 4138-111-E65
>
> It's 12v, 6.5a max and 3gpm. It's got 55psi auto shutoff
>
> On Tue, Aug 9, 2022, 6:41 AM Chris Riedinger 
> wrote:
>
>> Was a jabsco, I replaced with sureflo.
>>
>> I can't find the model# on my log- I'll take a peek down there this
>> morning .
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 9, 2022, 6:17 AM David Knecht  wrote:
>>
>>> I can hear and feel the pump running fine, so I don’t think it is a
>>> connection issue.  What pump did you replace yours with?  Dave
>>>
>>> S/V Aries
>>> 1990 C 34+
>>> New London, CT
>>>
>>>
>>> On Aug 8, 2022, at 10:35 PM, Chris Riedinger 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Checking breakers or fuses
>>>
>>> Any connections made - any corrosion in there? Are you getting
>>> (batteryV+)12v or only 10.2 indicating a possible short
>>>
>>> Our water pump, which I believe was the original, just died last year
>>> and I swapped it out. I wish I had done that sooner, the new pump is both
>>> quieter and uses less aH
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Swaloon 37/40+
>>>
>>> On Mon, Aug 8, 2022, 7:26 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Hi Folks- I found that my fresh water pump was running continuously
 today and not pressurizing the system and not cutting out when
 pressurized.  I confirmed there was water in the tanks and flow to the
 manifold that controls tank choice.  But there was no water in the filter
 after the manifold and before the pump.  I removed the hose connecting the
 manifold/filter to the pump and when I sucked on it, I got water, so
 nothing appears blocked.  When I turned the pump on (Par-Max4), I could not
 feel any suction on the opening.  I presume these are self-priming pumps,
 so I should have felt some pull.  The pump is 30 years old, so I am
 presuming it is just dead, but wondering if there is any other scenario
 that might make it not work before I replace it.  Thanks- Dave

 S/V Aries
 1990 C 34+
 New London, CT


 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>

Stus-List Re: Solar Panel on Bimini top

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

winds here were 60-80 mph last night...

Nate
"sarah jean"
1980 30-1
St. Croix River, WI

On Wed, Aug 3, 2022 at 12:53 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had a flexible panel sales guy tell me the the rare earth magnet
> approach will hold the tight in up to 60 mph winds
>
> Neil Andersen, W3NEA
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> --
> *From:* Dreuge via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 3, 2022 11:56:10 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> *Cc:* Dreuge 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Solar Panel on Bimini top
>
> I would highly recommend  3M Dual-Lock over Velcro for this use.
> Dual-Lock is like Velcro on steroids.  From the data sheets for 3M
> Dual-Lock and 3M Hook and Loop,  Dual-Lock has a dynamic tensile
> disengagement of 60 lbs/in^2 whereas Hook and Look has a dynamic tensile
> disengagement of 9 lbs/in^2.
>
> When I installed flexible solar panels on my bimini, I pretty much
> followed the SailRite instructions but used Dual-Lock w/VHB tape (comes
> with it) on the panels and sewed the matching Dual-Lock to the bimini panel
> flaps.   Works like a dream.
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
>
> On Jul 27, 2022, at 9:43 AM, Novabraid via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> My canvas maker has sewn sunbrella tabs with fuzzy Velcro underneath on
> the bimini that run the length and width of the solar panel.  We were able
> to sew lengths of the toothed Velcro directly to the perimeter of the
> panels.  The tabs go over the outer edges of the panels, securing them in
> place on all 4 sides. As such, my panels can be easily removed when the
> bimini top needs to be stowed away for weather events simply by peeling
> back the velcro.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> 1983 Landfall 35
>
>
>
>

Stus-List 2-way headsets?

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Our anchoring (and our marriage) has benefitted from Cruising Solutions
two-way headsets for 6 or 7 years. The modest ~$80/pair units were great
... but are getting wonky, and I'm looking at replacements. Everything on
the market looks more sophisticated, and a LOT more expensive, at ~ $350 to
~$800 per pair.

Anyone have a modest-priced solution?

Thanks

Nate Flesness

Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
St. Croix River

Raven
1994 Tartan 31
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Cornucopia
Lake Superior
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Question??

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I recommend contacting this outfit
https://schoonerbaymarinallc.com/site/ in Bayfield WI
They are a Yanmar dealer.
They rebuilt theHurth Kanzaki  transmission I use with my Yanmar.
They are a little colorful, but competent.

Nate

1980 30-1
1994 T31

On Mon, Jun 14, 2021 at 6:31 PM Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A club member has a 2012 Tartan 37 with a 3 cylinder Yanmar diesel I
> don't know the transmission typehe bought it in 2014 got a good
> deal then on pricethe engine now has 200 hours but just after he
> launched 6 weeks ago, his transmission failedmarine diesel
> contractors (3 of them) said transmission could not be repaired.so
> he needs a new transmission.
>
> Wrong, he is informed by all 3 diesel mechanics and Yanmar, that there
> is not a transmission available to match his Yanmar engine. So guess
> what, he has to buy a new engine and transmission.
>
> Has anyone ever heard of this where there is no transmission to fit a
> Yanmar?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 -#277
> Halifax, N.S.
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List teak ladder treads

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Want to add steps to existing stern boarding ladder. Admiral wants teak
steps.
Looks like they are available in Europe, but here all I can find are teak
*deck* steps, not ladder rung steps. Anyone know of a source, or failing
that, a good design I can make myself, attaching by ss hose clamps?

Nate

1980 C 30-1
St, Croix River Hudson WI

1994 Tartan 31
Cornucopia, WI
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List garboard drain install for a 30-1

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I plan to install a garboard drain in my 1980 30-1 for this winter. Port
leaks and only a partial cover meant significant  water/ice in the bilge
last winter, which did some damage.

Any comments or suggestions? My default is to use rare earth magnets to
line up bilge position and outside, drill from inside, install bronze
seadog drain with epoxy and screws.

Thanks

Nate Flesness
"Sarah Jean"
Hudson, WI
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Re: Stus-List New-guy C 40 Shopping questions

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I own a 30-1, but have chartered a tall rig 40, with the deep keel.
Sailing it was like a freight train... the most amazing speed and
ground-covering ability I have ever dealt with.
Still brings a smile thinking about it.
That said, I thought the interior was set up for a racing crew more than
cruisers, but thats just a personal preference.

Good luck

Nate




On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 4:38 PM Jeffrey Brideau via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Allow me to first apologize for any ignorance we may suffer before I
> introduce our situation. I've been sailing all sorts of small craft for 35+
> years but this will be our first adventure in something no-longer
> trailerable.  I and my wife are shopping for an upgrade in size from our
> O'Day 23-2 and are attracted to the C line of boats given our budget, the
> perceived quality, performance/comfort reputation, and availability in the
> local market. We started eyeing a 35-3 in VT (and may still consider it)
> but after looking at a few 35' boats locally we are realizing they may
> still be a bit small for our rapidly growing family of four (and trucking
> and bottom painting a boat from VT to NH/ME seacoast adds a lot of costs),
> we have started looking at some C 40 boats in MA/RI  area. I'm not afraid
> of some small projects that can be carried out while we use it or in the
> offseason but not interested in a "project boat"  that would need work to
> be safe before use.
>
>
> https://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_detail.jsp?slim=broker_id=3558367_boats=3558367=MattapoisettYachtSales&==Feet=Public_id=81236=
> https://www.boattrader.com/boat/1981-c-c-tall-rig-7442829/
>
> Now for the questions:
>
> We have scheduled the two 40's above for a visit next weekend, one we saw
> in the boatyard without invitation this weekend. They are both on the hard,
> and the one we briefly visited is a centerboard version. The other is a
> tall-rig/deep-keel.  See the photos linked.
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/7xUVbSnHMob2YmYP8
>
> 1. On this boat, what is the drain in the keel for? Is it a bilge drain or
> a centerboard trunk vent? There was something, perhaps a piece of wood,
> loose inside the drain that I could move with a finger.
> 2. On cabin top starboard, there appears to be a wire cable winch that
> I've not seen on other examples. Is this the centerboard pendant perhaps?
> 3. Is the weeping from the centerboard pivot access ports reasonable or
> expected. It may be lubricant as the broker suggests it was somewhat
> recently serviced.
>
> Notes: The "smile" needs addressing but seems dry. Depth and knot log
> sensors have been painted over with antifoul despite being listed in the
> description as features. Gelcoat seems good for its age.
>
> We are leaning towards the centerboard model as the Marina we are
> targeting in Portland, ME has limited areas of draft to accommodate a 7.5'
> keel at low tide. However, fewer moving parts is a huge advantage as is
> better sailing performance. But, we might be forced into a less
> desirable marina or have a low tide +/- 1hr time block for coming or going
> from the marina.
>
> Last general question and ask for advice, what is the mast step situation
> on either of these boats and apart from waterlogged cores in the deck and
> hull, what are the critical points of interest to a new buyer that thinks
> he is somewhat savvy.
>
> All polite thoughts welcomed.
>
> Best regards,
> Jeff
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List instrument panel idiot light BUZZER going on cyclically, all switches OFF

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Our 1980 30-1 has the original 2QM15 and instrument panel. Last night on
the mooring, the warning buzzer above the usual three idiot lights started
going off, intermittently - 15 or so seconds on, 15 or so seconds off,
repeat. The big red switch was OFF, the ignition switch was OFF with the
key on its usual in-cabin hook, the engine was not running, and there
should NOT have been any power to the buzzer!I The oil pressure light
glowed faintly when the buzzer was buzzing. I repeat, the engine was not
running and the ignition was OFF. We've had this Good Old Boat 15 years
now, this is new.

Today, mystified, I disconnected the buzzer, to avoid further annoying the
neighbors. I had some tranny work done recently, maybe the installers
bumped the wiring or something..,. ??

I assume some short somewhere? Any ideas? I faintly remember a
short-finding recipe on this wonderful list many years ago, anyone remember
it?

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
St. Croix River Hudson WI
and
Raven
Tartan 31
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior
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Re: Stus-List Gel coat

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Supposedly many 1980's C's (like my 1908 30-1) had a little yellow and a
little brown added to the white.
That's from listers years ago, I've not tried it.
YRMV

Nate

On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 1:42 PM Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a 1985 C 35 mk3 does anyone know  what color the deck gelcoat
> is?  Its off white but having
> hard time matching.
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Gerry Fennessey
> Fianna
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List roll call

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Sarah Jean/30-1/1980/no sail # but boat is #602/
nateflesn...@gmail.com/Hudson, WI
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Stus-List too many wires for in-pedestal? Is that why people network?

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I'm trying to add a sirius satellite weather receiver to my existing
Raymarine Es7 display, which is ram-mounted on top of the pedestal and has
AIS fed from a down-below VHF receiver. (I managed to do that myself awhile
back).

So one side of the pedestal tube I filled very full with AIS cabling plus
power for the Es7, and I just realized the other side is full too, with (an
older) autopilot connection, plus binnacle light power. I can't fit another
Raymarine custom-headed cable, needed to connect to the SR200 Sirius
receiver, in either side.

The options I can think of are:

1. Maybe combine the binnacle light and ES7 power cabling to make a little
more room on one side. Might possibly be enough...
2. Invest more $$ and install a Seatalk network connector, which I
THINK(??) means the AIS and Sirius signals could get to the Es7 display via
a single cable? Can anyone confirm this? I have the question into Raymarine
support, but waiting 

I have no plans to add more stuff to a network, and am one of those retired
semi-IT guys who is NOT at all excited about playing with boat
electronics

Any suggestions or advice?
Many thanks

Nate

1994 Tartan 31 "Raven"
SIskiwit Bay
Lake Superior

1980 C 30-1 "Sarah Jean"
St. Croix River
Hudson WI
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Stus-List satellite receiver install - does canvas matter?

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Beginning to install a Sirius satellite weather receiver (Lake Superior is
full of surprises, more so now that VHF marine weather is dumbed down.. I
quote a recent one ."today, possible showers, possible thunderstorms,
mostly sunny").

Question is, does the sat receiver's view of the sky care about a Sunbrella
bimini partly in the way? If not, the stern rail is where I'll put it..

thanks

Nate

Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
St. Croix River

Tartan 31
SIskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior
___

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Stus-List Mooring bouy new hollow style - and advice/experience?

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I need to purchase a new mooring bouy for my 30-1. The old Taylor conical
bouy had the lower metal rod fitting fail last Fall, The boat enjoyed a
little freedom, but luckily no harm done.

My old style bouy seems off the market A new styleJim-Bouy  has a hollow
core shaft to move the chain up through the bouy to the top, for more
direct connection to the bow lines, see
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=jim-buoy-pendant-mooring-buoy-24inch=-1|2276108|2276138|2276139=1637498

Anyone used one of these? Do I really need the $118 plate and ring too?
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?name=jim-buoy-mooring-system=-1|2276108|2276138|2276137=1358166
?

Thanks for any advice or opinion

Nate

Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Lake St, Croix Hudson WI

(and)
1994 Tartan 31
Cornucopia, WI
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Re: Stus-List C 30 Mast weight

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Never weighted my 1980 30-1 mast but I used to pull it annually with a gin
pole and a helper - I would agree with the guesstimates based on swing
momentum and two guys adjusting it on the fore and aft pulpits, etc,
200-300 lbs sounds right on.

Nate

Sarah Jean
1980 30-1

On Tue, Mar 13, 2018 at 12:28 PM, gerald field via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone have a idea of the approximate weight of the mast on a C 30.
> I am going to buy a chain hoist that i will mount on a frame for moving my
> mast from its winter stands onto a mast dolly at the club and i want to
> make sure i get a appropriately sized one.
> Gerald Field
> C 30 Vagabond
> Midland Bay Sailing Club
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List opinions about cabin table

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

We happen to have owned a C 1980 30-1 dinette for the last dozen years
and still own and love her, and also now own a 1994 Tartan 31. The older
30-1 isn't the same as the 30-2, but the dinette vs foldup, etc., and some
other issues seem the same.

The Tartan does have bulkhead mounted chainplates, visible both sides. They
seem strong and adequate to me at least, and we've done heavy weather
sailing across 100 miles of the middle of Lake Superior. The C is tough,
and the dinette is lovely as there's always a place to sit and set a book,
laptop, or cup of coffee down. The Tartan table we often leave halfdown
(one side folded) at anchor or slip, to get somewhat the same function. The
Tartan has dramatically better engine and drive train access (I've had to
pull the older C transmission and engine from under the cockpit myself
... to replace failing rubber drivetrain seals). The Tartan doesn't point
quite as high as the amazing C, and is more tender than the wonderfully
stiff 30-1. The Tartan is also nearly a full knot faster under sail or
power, which compensates for the wider tacking angle. The Tartan has a much
better galley, head, more useable cockpit, and amazingly well-insulated
refrigerator.  Our Tartan came with lovely all-Harken big stainless winches
(:-)). Our Tartan has a Westerbeke 18hp which does not leak, and the older
C has the Yanmar 2qm15 which has always leaked oil in spite of my many
efforts.

Our Tartan had extra teak cabinets and teak paneling added as factory
options when built, so it is like a wonderfully warm old English den down
below, which instantly sold my other half on the bigger pricetag. My
favorite thing is that the (opening) ports are real, not glued in windows
(30-1) that leak even after redoing

Nate Flesness
Sarah Jean
C 1980 30-1
Lake St. Croix (River), Hudson WI

Valhalla
1994 Tartan 31
SIskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior
(sadly pulling her Friday.)

On Wed, Oct 11, 2017 at 5:09 AM, Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for all the helpful replies on cabin table options. I've pretty
> much narrowed my boat choices down to either a C 30MKii or a Tartan 31 at
> this point. The Tartan's interior appears more open with the folding table
> mounted on the bulkhead vs. the fixed table on the C I will mainly be
> day-sailing and hanging out on the dock with a few overnights so I'm
> thinking the more open cabin might work better with the kids. comparison
> pics link below.
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5w1TuAY4gTRam1qNlBuWExhSW8
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Lisle
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dinghy Recommendations?

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

voting for the keep-it-light philosophy, we're happy with a 27 lb. 1.2 HP
30 year old Johnson/Evinrude that pushes an 8 ft Walker Bay with RID kit
much faster than I can row it. We once had a water-ski boat,and  I don't
need my dink to act like that. We have davits, but hand the motor down and
up - which is why 27 lbs is perfect. Bought one well used bur running fine
for $300. Only caveat is, the little motors have little carb jets, most
anything in the gas can cause trouble. I now fill the internal tank with a
filter paper in the funnel to remove very fine crud.

Nate

1980 C 30-1
Tartan 31

On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 12:24 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> The last thing I want to do is to start "The Great Dinghy War".  [image:
> *;) winking]
>
> That said, our '94 came with two outboards, one 6.5 hp Honda 4 stroke
> mounted the the stern railing and an old Torqeedo.  Haven't even gotten
> around to testing either one yet - too many other things on my list!  Thre
> was a West Marine inflatable dinghy folded up under the v-berth, but the
> floor had entirely peeled out of it and is was in really poor shape.
>
> If we want to go on any kind of getaway (even a local one), I'm going to
> need a dinghy since transient slips here in the Tampa area are darned
> expensive.
>
> I'm really liking the idea of a porta-boat, especially given the ability
> to store it on deck easily.  I've seen a couple of you comment very
> positively about them.  I am also finding relatively few detractors.  That
> said I want to keep my mind wide open as I way the options.
>
> I've read a number of articles that really push for a RIB with a 15hp
> yamaha as being the "standard" in the Caribbean due to combination of
> dryness, speed, and ability to get parts.  However, in our harbor, we
> cannot keep a dinghy in the water next to our boat, so I think that may
> strike a RIB unless we hang dinghy davits from the stern which would
> probably force us into a bigger dock (which may not even be available in
> our marina).
>
> So,what dinghy, what size, and what outboard size/type?
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Input on inflatable dinghy purchase

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I'm at the age where motor light-weight is more important to me than dink
speed. I picked up two used Johnson/Evinrude 2 cycle 1.2HP(!) motors (~$300
each, often advertised as 2HP), and love the 28 lbs lift up to the rail.
They're fast enough for patient dinking on a 10" inflatable and an 8'
Walker Bay, and in larger waves I've added a little row power once or
twice. Only caveat is the carb jet is very tiny and easily clogged, so you
need to add a $5 autostore gasoline in-line filter as well as prefilter the
fuel mix when you fill the little tank (don't ask how I learned that)

Nate

C
Tartan 31

On Wed, Mar 1, 2017 at 2:24 PM, Bob McLaughlin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Relocating our C 110 from a Midwest lake where I had no need for a
> tender to now sailing on Narragansett Bay, LI Sound, Buzzard's Bay,
> Vineyard and Nantucket Sounds, etc, I'm in need of a basic inflatable to
> serve as a tender in harbors without a launch service.  I've used them many
> times on charters but never really paid much attention to detail.
>
> I'm looking for something relatively compact for 2-4 people that is easy
> to set up and collapse and stow, so I think that's best a roll-up.  Early
> in my thinking, I'm eyeing something like the 8'6" Achillies LSI-260: 4
> person capacity/820lbs, Hypalon, overall weight 64 lbs, inflatable floor,
> with perhaps a ~4-5HP outboard. (Or maybe the 9'6" or 10'2" LSI versions of
> the same design..) I don't think I need a boat to plane, just basic
> transportation.  No davits, it will either be towed or stowed.
>
> I welcome input from those of you with inflatable experience to share your
> thoughts on brands, material, features, design, size, etc.  What factors
> should I be considering as I make my selection?
>
> Regards,
> Bob McLaughlin
> C 110 "Blue Devil"
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List buying clear vinyl for broken dodger window

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Not sure how I tell if my existing dodger has just vinyl, or strataglass,
or??
I suspect strataglass, the fancy and $$$ stuff, because the PO spared no
expense and the (2nd) dodger was built
during his ownership. It looks good at the 10 year mark, so I;d like to
match the existing stuff.

Nate

On Tue, Jan 3, 2017 at 7:57 AM, Tim Sippel via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Doing Vinyl windows for a guy , he supplied the material , got it here:
>
>
>
> https://www.fabric.com/find?SearchText=vinyl
>
>
>
> it sews easy enough , that’s all I can say so far .
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *Tim *
>
>
>
> *C 33mkii , Matico*
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *ALAN
> BERGEN via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 13, 2016 1:09 PM
> *To:* C <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List buying clear vinyl for broken dodger window
>
>
>
> Sailrite has many types and gauges http://www.sailrite.com/
> search?keywords=windows
>
> Alan Bergen
>
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>
> Rose City YC
>
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 13, 2016 at 9:50 AM, Tim Sippel via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I bought 30 gauge Vinyl from a local sail maker , depends where you live I
> guess . its expensive stuff but if you can get by with 36” x 54” its out
> there
>
>
>
> Don’t forget to sew glass behind old glass and seem rip the old one outta
> there .
>
>
>
> If up north is Ontario near barrie… tj outdoor fabrics
>
>
>
>
>
> *Tim Sippel*
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Nate
> Flesness via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 13, 2016 12:19 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Nate Flesness <nateflesn...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Stus-List buying clear vinyl for broken dodger window
>
>
>
> Winterizing mistake - accidentally bent a dodger side window too far on a
> cool day and heard a nasty "snap" sound, now need to replace one dodger
> window. Other windows are fine and look pretty new. Will measure thickness,
> and assume strataglass? How do you tell type/brand? And, browsing sources,
> looks like large pieces only at high prices? Anyone else need a piece?
>
>
>
> I have the Sailrite sewing machine and would do the sewing myself
>
>
>
> Nate
>
> Sarah Jean
>
> 1980 30-1
>
>
>
> Valhalla
>
> 1994 Tartan 31
>
>
>
> Both on the hard Up North
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the
> basis of the terms set out at www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice
> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.rogers.com_web_content_emailnotice=DgMGaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=dlPKFqdfHyuyo1C5k1Dzo2yh1n6I8FsC2yaoUkb-JIM=06-6LUseXsHmb7wk6frxsmU8_VeOSAJQ4ot9JcrfPm0=>
>
>
>
> Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels
> se fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
> www.rogers.com/aviscourriel
>
> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.rogers.com_aviscourriel=DgMGaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=dlPKFqdfHyuyo1C5k1Dzo2yh1n6I8FsC2yaoUkb-JIM=QUrRS8lBZgiiUGb21SW2xCuFDmepiSRQXTCU4znYm6w=>
> --
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
> paypal.me_stumurray=DgICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN
> 0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> dlPKFqdfHyuyo1C5k1Dzo2yh1n6I8FsC2yaoUkb-JIM=cNGtwSVBbCe9rPBHobWumq-
> gESu5ccMxYPn14qeADBs=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Alan Bergen
>
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>
> Rose City YC
>
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
>
> --
> This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the
> basis of the terms set out at www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice
>
>
>
> Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels
> se fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
> www.rogers.com/aviscourriel
>
> --
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I usually just pull the thermostat in the Fall as part of winterizing -
means the antifreeze circulates right away.
Raw water cooled in freshwater, so its a good time to pull the leaves and
pine needles out of it anyway...I keep thinking i'll install a filter

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
on the hard by the St. Croix River, WI

On Wed, Dec 14, 2016 at 11:02 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The pink RV style antifreeze does freeze solid though it is suppose to not
> expand enough
> to break copper pipes at least down to the rated temperature. It may break
> plastic before
> the rated temperature.
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C 30-1
>
>
> From: RANDY 
>
> Thanks Rick, that's a relief to hear. I've been worried that I didn't let
> my A4 warm up enough to open the thermostat before sucking anti-freeze
> through it. I did run about five gallons of fresh water through it before
> two gallons of pink anti-freeze, and I did confirm pink anti-freeze was
> coming out the exhaust before shutting it down. Will find out next spring
> whether my winterizing was good enough, and will be more thorough next
> fall. Meanwhile it's too late now - we've already had a sub-zero night, and
> the lake is iced over enough to hold my stupid dogs up on the ice.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List buying clear vinyl for broken dodger window

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Winterizing mistake - accidentally bent a dodger side window too far on a
cool day and heard a nasty "snap" sound, now need to replace one dodger
window. Other windows are fine and look pretty new. Will measure thickness,
and assume strataglass? How do you tell type/brand? And, browsing sources,
looks like large pieces only at high prices? Anyone else need a piece?

I have the Sailrite sewing machine and would do the sewing myself

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1

Valhalla
1994 Tartan 31

Both on the hard Up North
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Looking for Tips on Covering Mast Hole

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Dishpan turned upside down and duct-taped/tied to ropes to the
handholds..

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1

On Thu, Dec 8, 2016 at 1:38 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Bucket turned upside downis that "elegant"?
>
>
>
> On 2016-12-08 12:53 PM, RANDY via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I did the board-and-rock thing last offseason :)
>
> This year I was looking for something a little more "elegant" :)
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> --
> *From: *"Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
> 
> *To: *"cnc-list"  
> *Cc: *"Joel Aronson"  
> *Sent: *Thursday, December 8, 2016 9:35:03 AM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Looking for Tips on ROD Re-Rigging Process
>
> heavy plastic and zip ties daisy chained together.  You can top it with a
> small piece of wood and a rock or other weight.
>
> I'm rewiring my mast too. Marinebeam masthead and steaming lights, Got
> this for the VHF:
> MPD Digital rg-213-pl259-75ft 75-Feet RG8u RG-213 Coax Antenna Cable with
> Amphenol
>
> Joel
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List speed instrument frustration

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I just discovered (new to me at least) that Signet Marine sells refurbished
Signet Marine traditional round instruments and sensors.
http://www.signetmarine.com/products-2/used_instruments/used.html. They
give seemingly-appropriate warnings about reduced appearance and expected
lifespan, and prices look medium.
I might consider this for my wind stuff (already replaced speed and depth
instruments on my 36 year old 30-1).

No connection to SIgnet.

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
on the hard on the St. Croix River, WI.

and
Valhalla
1994 Tartan 31
on the hard Siskiwit Bay Marina
Cornucopia, WI
Lake Superior


On Wed, Nov 30, 2016 at 9:14 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 30 year old Signet Marine depth and speed instruments have never
> failed.  They still sell them and they're rock solid.
> www.signetmarine.com/.  I suspect you may have water in your cables that
> is eventually penetrating the impeller.   As to modern the Airmar looks
> good and is nmea 2000.  Jerry J
> [image: Airmar ST850 Smart Sensor NMEA 2000]
> 
>
> [image: Display Larger Image (pop-ups must be allowed)]
> 
>
>
> Airmar ST850 Smart Sensor NMEA 2000
> Product ID: AM1110-30 MFG ID: ST850-N2
> Airmar ST850 Smart Sensor feature embedded micro-electronics. Speed and
> temperature signals are processed inside the sensor and can be displayed on
> any radar,chart plotter, or device that accepts NMEA 2000 data.
> *Availability:* Usually ships within 24 hours
>
> MSRP/MAP Price $242.73
> Our Price
> $208.95
> Select ST850 Option:
> Plastic Nylon $208.95
> Bronze $273.95
> Stainless Steel $383.95
>
> *Qty: *
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 30, 2016, at 8:51 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> For ages I have had a Standard-Horizon SL1 speed log. The instrument
> eventually died and was replaced. The impellor was always getting gunked up
> and then died for good. The instrument died again. I got one instrument and
> two impellors from Fleabay. One impellor died quickly and the other one
> died just now L They were all new in box too.
>
> I am about ready to just look at the GPS and give up on this. Is there a
> modern speed sensor that actually lasts? I remember replacing a ton of them
> back in the day as an Autohelm dealer.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Force on the midship cleat

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Mine's taken a lot of abuse and held fine on the 8000 lb 30-1

Nate

On Tue, Nov 1, 2016 at 7:49 AM, Larry via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I have the folding toe rail cleat at midship, port and starboard and love
> it.
>
>
>
> Larry
>
> 1986 CnC 38 mkIII
>
> Freeland Wa
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jeremy
> Ralph via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, October 31, 2016 7:44 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Jeremy Ralph
> *Subject:* Stus-List Force on the midship cleat
>
>
>
> I'm keen on these toe rail midship cleats that CnCers have been
> recommending and thinking of ordering some:
>
>
>
> http://www.csjohnson.com/store/index.php?main_page=
> product_info_id=23
>
>
>
> They're rated for a load of 2,000lb.  Assuming my 10,000 displacement C
> is on a nylon spring line (with rubber snubbers) tied to this in a 40kn
> wind, will the cleat hold?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>   Jeremy
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open - prop size.

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

My surveyor pointed out that if you place a shaft zinc FORWARD of the
cutlass bearing, coupler failure will NOT result in a big hole in your
boat. I see them AFT all the time walking boatyards after haulout..

Nate

On Thu, Oct 27, 2016 at 6:40 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You are lucky the shaft didn't exit the boat!
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 27, 2016 at 7:37 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have a 2 blade MaxProp which feathers rather than folds, but I also had
>> a vibration problem. My mechanic suggested that the length of shaft from
>> the strut to the prop was to long. He extended the key slot at the front of
>> the shaft by about 2" and drilled new dimples for the set screws. It got
>> rid of much of the vibration. Not all, but quite a lot. Unfortunately the
>> coupling at the tranny was worn, and eventually the shaft slipped out prior
>> to the start of a race. Was able to re-insert the shaft in the coupling
>> with much grunting and groaning, but missed the race. Had to replace the
>> coupling. Since then all's been good enough.
>>
>> Dan Sheer
>> Pegathy - LF38
>> Rock Creek off the Patapsco
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C mk1 1979 interior finish

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Years ago a lister posted a recipe developed thru trial and error. Probably
was Wally.
I use it often, matches interior teak on my 1980 30-1 precisely:

Minwax stains:
1 part Provincial
2 parts Golden Pecan
2 parts Colonial Maple

And I've slowly changed the factory oil finish to Epifanes hand rubbed look
varnish, looks about the same, less mildew etc.

Nate

Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
St. Croix River Hudson WI

Valhalla
1994 Tartan 31
Siskiwit Bay Marina Lake Superior




On Tue, Oct 4, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Steven Tattrie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am finishing the teak handrails outside and interior - anyone have any
> idea on what was used to finish the interior handrails from factory. I
> would like to try to match the original look. looks like a stain or satin
> finish of some sort.
>
> steve
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List boom - half hidden u-bolt block mount thingy

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Yes! thanks!

Nate

On Sun, Sep 18, 2016 at 8:46 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sounds like you're referring to an internal boom bail:
>
> http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Boom_bails.html#
> Internal%20Boom%20Bails
>
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
>
>
>
> On 9/18/2016 9:15 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Anyone know the name and/or vendor for the stainless u-bolt hanging down
> from inside the boom? Used as an attachment for a block, typically
> mainsheet, with the mounting holes of the u-bolt bent out to the sides
> (like an eye strap in that regard), and mounted up  inside the boom with
> pop-type rivets holding it?
>
> My C 30-1 has one, and our Tartan 31 had two, one shattered
> yesterday metal fatigue I guess...need to find one but don't know what
> its' even called??
>
> Nate
>
> Sarah Jean
> 1980 30-1
> St, Croix River
>
> Valhalla
> 1994 Tartan 31
> Siskiwit Bay Marina
> Lake Superior
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List boom - half hidden u-bolt block mount thingy

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Anyone know the name and/or vendor for the stainless u-bolt hanging down
from inside the boom? Used as an attachment for a block, typically
mainsheet, with the mounting holes of the u-bolt bent out to the sides
(like an eye strap in that regard), and mounted up  inside the boom with
pop-type rivets holding it?

My C 30-1 has one, and our Tartan 31 had two, one shattered yesterday
metal fatigue I guess...need to find one but don't know what its' even
called??

Nate

Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
St, Croix River

Valhalla
1994 Tartan 31
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior
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Re: Stus-List Filtered Fresh water

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

before the pump. My sanitary routine is to leave the tank full, empty it on
arrival at the boat (every week or two) and refill with fresh immediately.
FYI practical sailor had an article on carbon filters a year or two ago and
recommended the inexpensive home house filter rig, but went for a fancy
high-performance special carbon filter. I've tried the cheap and readily
available carbon filter off the store shelf ,and I've been happy. Water
tastes OK from the tap now, and the coffee is immensely improved.

Nate

On Tue, Sep 13, 2016 at 8:27 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Nate,
>
> Did you put that before the pump or after? What do you put in your water
> to keep it sanitary?
>
> Thanks,
> Kevin
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 13, 2016 at 9:12 AM Nate Flesness via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Re the filter, I have had good taste-improvement results from a quite
>> inexpensive whole-house clear shell water filter, using carbon cartridges,
>> bought from a big box home supply store. The goal was removing "tank
>> taste", and it has worked well this first year. I plan to change cartridges
>> each season, and need to remember that its one more thing to switch out and
>> drain as part of winterizing, but that's easy. It came with pipe thread
>> fittings, so adapters to PEX would be required. An example is:
>> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay-Advanced-
>> Household-Water-Filtration-System-HDG2VS4/205582288
>>
>> Nate
>> 1980 C 30-1 on the St. Croix River, WI
>> 1994 Tartan 31 Siskiwit Bay Marina, Lake Superior
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 10:21 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Anyone ever remove the fresh water foot pump and instead install a
>>> filtered drinking water faucet? I'm thinking of doing so but am not
>>> completely sure if removing the foot pump is common or not. If not, what
>>> type of water filters would be good for installing under the galley sink
>>> and providing drinkable water on board without adding another faucet.
>>>
>>> I currently have a fresh water foot pump, salt water foot pump, and
>>> standard hot/cold water sink faucet.
>>>
>>> Where would I put the filter as well? Before or after the pump, before
>>> or after the water heater, one at each sink (galley/head)? I can't seem to
>>> find decent inline filters that have good flow and fittings for 1/2" PEX
>>> tubing.
>>>
>>> As I said in an earlier email, I'm replumbing the entire system using
>>> 1/2" PEX with SeaTech 35 series fittings, putting in a 3 GPM Shurflo pump,
>>> and would like to add filtering to make sure the water is drinkable.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Kevin
>>> '82 34 #473
>>> Japhys Spirit
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
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>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Filtered Fresh water

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Re the filter, I have had good taste-improvement results from a quite
inexpensive whole-house clear shell water filter, using carbon cartridges,
bought from a big box home supply store. The goal was removing "tank
taste", and it has worked well this first year. I plan to change cartridges
each season, and need to remember that its one more thing to switch out and
drain as part of winterizing, but that's easy. It came with pipe thread
fittings, so adapters to PEX would be required. An example is:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay-Advanced-Household-Water-Filtration-System-HDG2VS4/205582288

Nate
1980 C 30-1 on the St. Croix River, WI
1994 Tartan 31 Siskiwit Bay Marina, Lake Superior

On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 10:21 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Anyone ever remove the fresh water foot pump and instead install a
> filtered drinking water faucet? I'm thinking of doing so but am not
> completely sure if removing the foot pump is common or not. If not, what
> type of water filters would be good for installing under the galley sink
> and providing drinkable water on board without adding another faucet.
>
> I currently have a fresh water foot pump, salt water foot pump, and
> standard hot/cold water sink faucet.
>
> Where would I put the filter as well? Before or after the pump, before or
> after the water heater, one at each sink (galley/head)? I can't seem to
> find decent inline filters that have good flow and fittings for 1/2" PEX
> tubing.
>
> As I said in an earlier email, I'm replumbing the entire system using 1/2"
> PEX with SeaTech 35 series fittings, putting in a 3 GPM Shurflo pump, and
> would like to add filtering to make sure the water is drinkable.
>
> Thanks,
> Kevin
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
>
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>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List List of 30-1s

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Sarah Jean (1980 30-1) is hull number 602.

Nate
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Re: Stus-List Lifeline netting

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I had the same idea about putting netting on with zip ties.
zip ties (even black ones) are quite UV sensitive, and fall off in about a
year.
It was pretty ugly there for awhile.

Nate



On Thu, May 12, 2016 at 5:36 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Cool.  Thanks Jim.  I was thinking of using zip ties, but the twine idea
> is good too.  What did you do for your "gates"?
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> On May 12, 2016, at 6:23 PM, detroit...@aol.com wrote:
>
> looks like we both are buying the same thing.   mine was "used" but never
> used!  your item is new in package. both doing the same thing.  saving dogs
> or kids.
> bought a spool of white twine to wrap around the upper life line and
> bottom is attached to toe rails.
>  just have to figure out how to cover the 2 gates where the lifeline
> unhooks
> jim
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
> To: Robert Boyer 
> Cc: Ryan Doyle ; cnc-list 
> Sent: Thu, May 12, 2016 6:09 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Lifeline netting
>
> From Seamar:
> "Our lifeline netting is white, weather resistant, high strength nylon.
> Lifeline netting comes in 2" X 2" knotted diamond mesh with double strands
> top and bottom for durability. It is easy to install and fits boat rail
> from 18" to 36" high. When new, our lifeline netting has a tensile strength
> of 340 pounds per strand! That's plenty of holding power to keep gear on
> board!"
>
> On Thu, May 12, 2016 at 6:00 PM, Robert Boyer 
> wrote:
>
>> What is is made from???
>>
>> Bob Boyer
>> s/v Rainy Days
>> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
>> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
>>
>> On May 12, 2016, at 5:40 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hey guys,
>>
>> Anyone here buy lifeline netting recently?  I'm looking at 24" netting
>> from Seamar Sports Netting - www.seamarnets.com.  It's significantly
>> cheaper than West Marine and the other suppliers I've found.
>>
>> Anyone have experience with this stuff?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ryan
>> Nobody's Bargain
>> 1976 C 30mki
>> New York
>>
>> ___
>>
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>>
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>
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Stus-List Defender sale - Raymarine eS78 Navionics? plus SH GX2200 VHF/AIS

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

seeking any advice or comments before I pull the trigger tomorrow on a
chartplotter and VHF with AIS to overlay on the plotter. Total with rebate
just over one BOAT buck. I'm used to Navionics - my only reason for picking
it over the other chart options. I have ST60 Raymarine instruments,
connecting them nice but not essential, cruising Lake Superior and
particularly the Canadian side. Not a whiz at marine electronics.. Your
thoughts appreciated.

Nate

Sarah Jean
1980 30-1

and

Tartan 31
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Re: Stus-List To Nate Flesness

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

sorry.

On Fri, Mar 25, 2016 at 5:21 PM, Stu via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Nate – you have been a bad boy and should know better.  CHANGE THE SUBJECT
> LINE
>
> Stu
>
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 122, Issue 79

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

friend has one on Lake Superior. Has cruised it widely, including a couple
trips to Isle Royale from Cornucopia and Duluth, up to Houghton, etc. I
hope he'll accompany me to the Canadian coast this summer. Its certainly
more tender than the 30-1 I own, but noticeably faster in light air. Reef
early and often and you'll be fine.

The C Photoalbum has a Technical Info tab at left, select Stability
Diagram, and you'll see comparable stiffness/tenderness of C models.

Nate
"Sarah Jean"
1980 30-1
on the hard on the St, Croix River

unnamed
1994 Tartan 31
on the hard
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior

On Fri, Mar 25, 2016 at 4:11 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I'm in the escrow in the purchase of a C 29 Mark II circa 84/85; I
> realize the seller might be on this list. :-)  Curious if anyone has
> experience taking them on extended cruises and how the 29's mkii's handle
> in heavy seas and high wind (BF 5+). I wouldn't intentionally sail into a
> gale, but I'm sailing it on Lake Superior where the weather can be
> unpredictable.
>
> Also, curious if anyone knows how the spreader's are reinforced on the
> mast. Are they simply drilled or are there backing bolts or sleeves for
> more support. Been reading this old boat and Don Casey is pretty insistent
> that they need to be reinforced to insure distribution of the load at the
> point of attachment.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gene
>
> ___
>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearing again.

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Buck Algonquin..

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
St. Croix River, WI

and Tartan 31
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior


On Sun, Feb 21, 2016 at 4:09 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Deep Blue Yacht Supply - give them a call.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2016-02-21 6:02 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I finally got my shaft coupling removed and the shaft pulled.
> This allowed me to get an accurate measurement of the bearing strut
> diameter. It is without a doubt 1 5/8". The shaft is 1 1/4".
> I cannot find a replacement anywhere for this size.
> WTH do I do now?
> Do I install a sleeve of copper pipe into which I press the bearing?
> I am at my wits end with this.
>
> Brian
> La Neige
> 37/40 xl
> Havre de Grace MD.
> https://m.facebook.com/The-Next-14-Years-1011224262273851/
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

My 1980 30-1 has two hoses connected to the stern vents. One hose is blower
exhaust, the other runs forward to just aft of the engine and sits there -
air intake. I turn the tops accordingly. Very likely this is original. The
hose diameter fits tightly on the vent base, so 3" I.D.?

Nate
"Sarah Jean"
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior


On Wed, Dec 23, 2015 at 12:44 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> I'm looking for input on a good blower installation on my 1976 C 30
> mki.  I'm almost through rewiring my entire boat and I'm up to replacing
> the blower.  I removed the the old unit because the fan motor was dead.
> Judging by the look of it, it may have been original.
>
> The flexible hoses were connected to nothing, so I'm not exactly sure how
> it was originally hooked up.  Although I surmise it exhausted through one
> of the two dorade vents on the transom.  I assume the other dorade vent is
> used to just allow outside air into the engeine compartment - since there
> is nothing hooked up to that.
>
> I'm curious what the original blower/air inlet setup was on a 30 mki, and
> I'm I'm looking for the safest and most effective way to clear my engine
> compartment of gasoline fumes.
>
> Also, if anyone has opinions on the proper size (in CFM) of the blower(s)
> and the proper diameter of the flexible tubing I'd love to hear it.
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> On Wed, Dec 23, 2015 at 12:00 PM,  wrote:
>
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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>>
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>>
>>
>> Today's Topics:
>>
>>1. Re:  Anchor locker lid attachment (Robert Boyer)
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 10:11:11 -0500
>> From: Robert Boyer 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: "svpegasu...@gmail.com" , jda...@gmail.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment
>> Message-ID: <4d4285ee-cf88-4390-aeb3-c712347f9...@icloud.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>
>> My anchor locker lid on my LF38 is cored and it uses piano hinges.  So,
>> in 1983 that was the standard in the Rhode Island plant.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> Bob Boyer
>> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
>> 1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
>> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>>
>> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
>> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
>>
>> > On Dec 23, 2015, at 12:20 AM, svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > Patrick, I redid my anchor locker hatch and don't remember any coring.
>> Except on the hatch its self. I cut the hatch in half when I installed my
>> windlass. I have 2 strap hinges on each half, with each one opening
>> outboard.
>> >
>> > Doug Mountjoy
>> > svPegasus
>> > LF38
>> > just west of Ballard, WA.
>> >
>> >
>> > -- Original message--
>> > From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List
>> > Date: Tue, Dec 22, 2015 10:54
>> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
>> > Cc: Patrick Davin;
>> > Subject:Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment
>> >
>> > Next up on my winter project list: reinforcing the anchor locker lid
>> attachment.
>> >
>> > C's are made really well for the most part, but I had a "what were
>> they thinking???" moment this weekend. I was investigating the anchor
>> locker lid hinge (which is screwed into a recessed area of the deck)
>> because several screws have pulled out and there are rust stains. The
>> surprise was it looks like the 15-20 screws for the hinge went into wood
>> coring. Screws in wood core, in the wettest part of the boat! (the foredeck
>> takes the most waves, and when at dock it's always humid from rain)
>> >
>> > Pictures:
>> >
>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NQThGM1AzTmxabU0=sharing
>> >
>> > Has anyone else redone their anchor locker hinge? Can you confirm that
>> it's cored, or am I on the crazy pills?
>> >
>> > The reason I suspected core in the first place is that the lid hinge is
>> about 1" outside of the deck area where all fiberglass was used along the
>> toe rail. Tap testing / sounding doesn't reveal any significant
>> differences, so I think the issue is very contained, surprisingly. It seems
>> like if they had made the anchor locker an inch or so wider, they wouldn't
>> have had to screw in to coring - but maybe the fiberglass layer isn't thick
>> enough to fit the screws. Anyway, I'm thinking ream out some 

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Ditto. Not even very firm rap of hand was needed...

Nate
"Sarah Jean"
1980 30-1

and T31

On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 8:21 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Stevan, mine just popped out with a firm rap from my hand. Had to fix up a
> few small patches of gelcoat but nothing major.
>
> Mike Amirault
> C MKii SMSC
>
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Re: Stus-List outboard size

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I like lightweight more than dink speed and have been happy with a 27 lb.,
1.2 hp(!) Johnson/Evinrude 2-stroke, available used for ~$300 here. It
moves an inflatable WM dink carrying 2-3 people with dignity, not thrills.
Being several decades past my twenties, I find 27 lbs a very attractive
feature that drove my choice. I have not yet made the mistake of trying it
in heavy seas or winds but I'm sure that will happen, and I will still be
better off than previously (I've been rowing.).

Nate

"Sarah Jean"
1980 30-1
Lake St. Croix, Hudson, WI

Tartan 31
Siskiwit Bay
Lake Superior





On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 6:03 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You will like lightweight and the little Suzuki 2.5 hp is the lightest on
> the market I think and it will easily do the trick
>
> Dwight Veinot
> C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>
>
> On Mon, Oct 26, 2015 at 1:32 PM, Michael Jones via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Ls and Gs
>>
>> Can you help me? I have recently bought an 8ft inflatable as tender and
>> am looking at second hand outboard options. Can you advise me of adequate
>> size required? Specifically I have seen a 2,2 hp advertised. Will that be
>> enough to potter to the dock and back? The safety sticker on the boat says
>> up to 5hp but that seeems a bit much and heavy.
>>
>> Thanks and regards
>>
>> Mike Jones
>> Seanachai, 1981 C 34
>> Victoria
>>
>> ___
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Stus-List landfall 38 for $4k?

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAILBOAT-C-amp-C-LANDFALL-38-039-/131565358722?_trksid=p2056016.m2518.l4276

it says soft deck spot, but if thats all, yikes...

Nate
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Re: Stus-List head question-lubrication

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I've always used 1 tbsp olive oil with success.

Nate

On Thu, Jul 16, 2015 at 11:21 AM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 So, how is the Jabsco head lubricated?  Just toss Crisco in the bowl and
 flush?  Mine was out of use for a while and appears to work, but squeaks a
 bit and feels stiff.



 Thanks,




 Alex Giannelia

 a...@airsensing.com

 (416) 203-9858



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Re: Stus-List head question-lubrication

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

th great thing about this list is you learn better approaches to things
every day!

Thanks

Nate

On Thu, Jul 16, 2015 at 12:57 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  The one caveat I know of regarding using oil based head lube goes with
 using a bioactive product for reducing odors.



 I have been using KO (Kills Odors) and CP (Cleans Potties) now sold by
 Raritan, for over 20 years.  An oil lube will do exactly what Andy and Tim
 described.  The bioactive ingredients need plenty of air/ventilation to
 work correctly.  I have two vents in Calypso’s 40 gal holding tank.



 I used the CP product as Calypso’s head lube as it is compatible with the
 bioactive KO.



 Martin DeYoung

 Calypso

 1971 CC 43

 Seattle


 [image: Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]



 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim
 Goodyear via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Thursday, July 16, 2015 10:32 AM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Cc:* Tim Goodyear
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List head question-lubrication



 I tried mineral oil (once) last year - it resulted in exactly the
 situation that Andy predicted; floating on top of the liquid and causing
 anaerobic bacteria to thrive and develop...  The marine lube solutions seem
 to be best and don't seem to affect the nitrate-based deodorizing solutions
 that promote aerobic (less smelly) bacteria growth.



 Tim

 Mojito

 CC 35-3

 Branford, CT



 On Thu, Jul 16, 2015 at 12:28 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I used to use olive oil, but my feeling now is that would leave a film on
 top of the liquid in the holding tank, preventing air from getting at it,
 which would result on a foul odor.

 Perhaps one of the dedicated head lubes would be the ticket.

 Andy

 CC 40

 Peregrine



 On Thu, Jul 16, 2015 at 12:21 PM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

   So, how is the Jabsco head lubricated?  Just toss Crisco in the bowl
 and flush?  Mine was out of use for a while and appears to work, but
 squeaks a bit and feels stiff.

 Thanks,


 Alex Giannelia

 a...@airsensing.com

 (416) 203-9858



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Stus-List solar vent wiggles, doesn't rotate

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

My Nicro 4 solar vent, maybe 4 years old, would not run this season.
I replaced the NI-MH C cell, left it switched off for a couple days to
charge in the sun, and turned it on - it wiggles back and forth a little,
but doesn't rotate - same as the with the old battery.

Ideas? solutions?

Thanks

Nate

Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Lake St. Croix
Hudson WI

and

Tartan 31
SIskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior
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Stus-List Chartplotter choice when you want to simply add AIS to the display?

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

West has a few day sale on Garmin and Raymarine chartplotters with the new
hi res sonars.
I'm a newbie to most marine electronics. I have 20 year old Raymarine
instruments, and no plans to connect to charplotter. On Lake Superior, AIS
tells you where the freighters are, and GPS where the land is, and you
don't worry very much about running into another sailor out in the lake -
the one thing radar adds when its foggy..

Several friends got AIS and likely will not add radar..

I like to sail and mess with boats - but I prefer to leave the computer
programming stuff for work.

Any thoughts on the simplicity of adding an AIS receiver to the display on
a Raymarine Dragonfly 7, or to Garmin Echomap 74dv?

Thanks

Nate

Sarah Jean
1980 30-1

and 1994 Tartan 31
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Re: Stus-List Interior teak finish

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Confirm it was oil on a 1980 30-1.
I'm slowly converting the oil to Epifanes hand rubbed varnish finish -
cleans up better.
If you're refinishing or replacing teak, A lister contributed a very good
stain match years ago - I wish I'd saved his name to credit his trial and
error efforts, but the
recipe is

Minwax Wood Finish (Stain)1 part Provincial (211)  2 parts
Golden Pecan (245)2 parts Colonial Maple (223)

I've sanded dinged, worn, or stained solid teak bits, and very very
carefully very fine sanded some of the teak veneer panels, then wiped on
this stain mix, let stand a few minutes, and wiped off. The results look
like an EXACT color match on my boat. I now keep a can of this mix made up
for all touch up work inside.

Nate

Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
relocated and finally launched today and on a bouy in the cove, South Lake
St. Croix,
Hudson WI

1994 Tartan 31 - yet to be re-named
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior
Cornucopia WI

On Tue, Jun 23, 2015 at 5:10 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 FWIW, on my 1982 37’ it was oiled. No varnish. I continued to use teak oil.

 Best,
 Dave Godwin
 1982 CC 37 - Ronin
 Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
 Ronin’s Overdue Refit http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/

 On Jun 23, 2015, at 3:42 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Does anyone know what C C used to finish the interior teak in the 80's.
 Jerry CC 27mk V.  J J.

 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

running with a loose key in the coupler, or even bolts that lost their
wire,  can cause coupler or shaft wear and lead to expensive coupler
replacement.
Don't ask me how I know

Nate

Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Lake St. Croix, Hudson WI

and

to be named
1994 Tartan 31
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior


On Fri, Jun 5, 2015 at 9:46 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 You can always put a retention ring (
 http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=src ) on the inside (between the
 coupling and the packing gland). Much better than the zinc.



 Marek



 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Brad
 Crawford via CnC-List
 *Sent:* June-05-15 14:48
 *To:* 'Brent Driedger'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com

 *Cc:* Brad Crawford
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question



 Yes I have the same feelings.  I also have zincs on the shaft in front of
 the strut, I guess it eases the feeling of losing the shaft, provided the
 zinc stays put?



 Thanks,



 Brad







 *From:* Brent Driedger [mailto:bren...@highspeedcrow.ca
 bren...@highspeedcrow.ca]
 *Sent:* Friday, June 5, 2015 11:35 AM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Cc:* Brad Crawford
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question



 I have been dealing with exactly that issue since I bought my boat 7 years
 ago. It hasn't been an issue and as a backup I have a zinc anode on the
 shaft about 3/8 from the packing nut just in case it lets loose. I'm sure
 the keyway is wearing out as a result but I haven't noticed any increase in
 play. It's just on my mind as one of those  not quite right things



 Brent

 27-5

 Lake Winnipeg

 Sent from my iPhone


 On Jun 5, 2015, at 1:16 PM, Brad Crawford via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I recently had my transmission out for a rebuild and upon putting it back
 in and the boat back together discovered that the propeller shaft coupling
 is a little loose on the shaft, maybe 1/8” of rotational movement on the
 shaft, like possibly the keyway is worn?.  Have tried tightening the set
 screws, which secures the coupling but eventually they work loose and again
 there is movement of the coupling on the shaft.  It’s been recommended that
 I have the boat hauled,  the coupling removed,  the shaft pulled out and
 provided the shaft is ok, a new coupling fitted and faced to the shaft, and
 then reinstalled for a final alignment.



 My question to the group is has anyone else been running around with a
 loose coupling and is this something I should be immediately concerned
 about?



 Thanks,



 Brad Crawford

 CnC 36

 Seattle



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Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Thanks! Exactly what I need. This is an amazing list and great group.

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
#602

On Fri, May 22, 2015 at 9:57 AM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I used over sized lag screws to bold them down to stringers. I like your
 taped aluminum angle bar better though...

 Cheers,
 Aaron R.
 Admiral Maggie,
 1979 CC 30 MK1 #540
 Annapolis, MD


 --
 Date: Fri, 22 May 2015 07:35:27 -0400
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1
 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 CC: m...@tkg.ca


 That looks pretty much the same as I found on Windburn.
 I used 2 white oak for two of the girders ( stringers ? ) and
 1.5 for the center girder. The challenge was cutting the oak
 to match the curve of the bilge, which was different on the
 two sides. Further, the sides did not run parallel bow to stern.
 I did smooth the worst of the bumps down with a grinder
 and applied a coating of resin to re-seal everything.

 I see from your picture #9 it was the same for  Admiral Maggie.

 The area just in front on the foremost keel bolt appeared to be
 the lowest point in the bilge. A bit of resin was poured in their
 to level it, and a remote pickup installed for a Whale Gulper 320.

 Getting the height right was also a process. I assumed the original
 supports had settled a bit and there is not much square in the boat
 to compare to. The top surface of the aluminum casting the mast
 sits on is not the same thickness front to back, and the bottom
 of the mast is not square. No idea if all of that was by design.

 I also installed two 4 x 1/4 thick aluminum angle pieces, bolted
 horizontally through the front and rear girders. They were drilled
 and tapped to hold the machine screws coming down from the
 mast step. Was your block screwed down directly into the girders?

 Michael Brown
 Windburn
 CC 30-1



 Date: Thu, 21 May 2015 17:10:27 -0400
 From: Aaron Rouhi admiralmag...@outlook.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1
 Message-ID: bay179-w44f5e244aa918e2f4a0063a2...@phx.gbl
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1


 Hey Nate,Here are some pictures from when I replaced my mast step few
 years back. The stringers were so rotted that I was able to remove them
 pretty much by hand! It was not pretty...
 I replaced them with 5 new stringers made out of 8/4 mahogany.  Make sure
 you mark up the height of your oak block so you can match it. This is also
 a good time to installed a bilge pump pickup hose in front of the mast
 (lowest part of the bilge). Doing that will keep your bilge dry...
 Pictures are here:
 http://imgur.com/a/SOWx6

 Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 CC 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MD

 Date: Wed, 20 May 2015 11:12:16 -0500
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1
 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 CC: nateflesn...@gmail.com

 I'll soon have the mast out of my 1980 30-1 (for relocating her by truck)
 and want toforestall future mast step issues by redoing/strengtheningit
 now. The mast was last out 8 years ago. I've never pulled the oak mast step
 base plate, so don't know what to anticipate underneath. Advice welcome,
 pictures very welcome.
 I'm imagining figuring out the necessary drainage and keel bolt access,
 then using epoxy-saturated oak board or McMaster Carr fiberglass sheets to
 built a new support step, and maybe filling in what I hear is a large empty
 area with micro-balloon slurry?
 She's  an all-freshwater boat which sits in a cradle 7 months a year,
 which may be why its lasted this long with no signs of trouble yet.
 Nate FlesnessSarah Jean1980 30-1
 Siskiwit Bay MarinaLake Superior


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Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I'll soon have the mast out of my 1980 30-1 (for relocating her by truck)
and want to
forestall future mast step issues by redoing/strengthening
it now. The mast was last out 8 years ago. I've never pulled the oak mast
step base plate, so don't know what to anticipate underneath. Advice
welcome, pictures very welcome.

I'm imagining figuring out the necessary drainage and keel bolt access,
then using epoxy-saturated oak board or McMaster Carr fiberglass sheets to
built a new support step, and maybe filling in what I hear is a large empty
area with micro-balloon slurry?

She's  an all-freshwater boat which sits in a cradle 7 months a year, which
may be why its lasted this long with no signs of trouble yet.

Nate Flesness
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1

Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior
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Re: Stus-List Salvage landfall 38 on ebay, Boston MA

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Bids are now up to $191. NO K. Nearly $200.

Interesting to watch, I hope she finds a home and someone with the time and
skills.

Nate

On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 8:24 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


 you wrote:

 ship... Project by all means.  Always liked the LF38. Looking for a
 long term project cruising boat for a few years from now.  I know, don't
 say it.


 I'll say it.  Don't get me started.  VBG

 I wish I had saved a copy of my project list from 2001, when I bought
 Stella Blue.  It evolved into the project page: 
 http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/projlist.htm

 I easily spent twice what I spent for the boat before it was ready for my
 intended purpose.  On the other hand, I know every nut, bolt, screw and
 wire on the boat.  That comes in handy.

 60K is pretty high.  I hate to say it, but there isn't a lot of demand for
 good sailing boats that don't double as dock condos.

 Before you buy a project boat, you need to have your head in the right
 place.

 Wal

 --
 s/v Stella Blue
 www.wbryant.com



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Stus-List Salvage landfall 38 on ebay, Boston MA

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-C-amp-C-Landfall-Monohull-/221767154206?_trksid=p2056016.l4276

Last bid I saw was $61. Might be worth it then again

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 CC 30-1
headed for the St. Croix River

and
Adagio
1994 Tartan 31
Lake Superior
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Re: Stus-List Headlamps...

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

interested in the signet unit...
(raising my hand)

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1

On Fri, Apr 24, 2015 at 3:37 PM, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 I need to replace our headlamps (the wearable kind) and there are so many
 choices out there.   Any happy customers who want to share?

 I also have a older Signet masthead unit that can be had for shipping.
 Just found it and it worked when it came off years ago.

 Thanks in advance.

 David F. Risch
 1981 40-2
 (401) 419-4650 (cell)

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Re: Stus-List webasto parts

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Pete, Bill Merrill in my marina at Cornucopia, installed a Webasto not too
long ago, I think I remember, in their Pearson 365 Ketch, Vixen.
He's usually very well up on sources. Let me know offline if you want his
contact information.

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior

and to be renamed 1994 Tartan 31




On Mon, Mar 30, 2015 at 9:21 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I’m looking for specific Webasto parts.  Does anyone have name/number of
 marinas that install air heaters and carry parts?



 Thanks,







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Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

The Canadian Yachting magazine article on the photoalbum says more than
800 CC 30-1's were built - the second highest production number (more
than 1,000 27's).

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1 (#602)
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior

On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 7:13 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 In the US Sailing handicapping guide the CC 30 is broken down into hulls
 1 - 506
 and 507+.  The more modern CC 30-2 is listed separately

 Mike
 ___
 From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Ronald B.
 Frerker via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
 Sent: January 20, 2015 1:07 AM
 To: Curtis; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design

 Anyone know how many of the old 30-1s were made?
 Always wondered.  I heard it was over 300.
 Ron
 Wild Cheri
 STL


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Re: Stus-List Teak stain?

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

A lister (whose name I've lost) posted this hard-won formula a few years
ago. I have used it several times, and its a perfect match to the factory
finish (which is definitely a warm brown stain) on my 1980 30-1.

Minwax Wood Finish (Stain)1 part Provincial (211)  2 parts
Golden Pecan (245)2 parts Colonial Maple (223)

Mix, apply, wipe off.

Nate
Sarah Jean
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior

On Mon, Jan 19, 2015 at 12:19 AM, David Blair via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Jim I had the same question as one could see bits of stain onto the backs
 of some pieces. The old guy at the Lumberworld on Quadra took one look at
 it and reached for the Watco Danish Oil Cherry and it matched perfectly on
 the unstained back of an original piece.  Likely they used that product to
 get more consistent color across the varying teak tones. I used it on my
 last little teak project – 1 or 2 coats – excellent results. Cheers



 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jim
 Watts via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Sunday, January 18, 2015 8:27 PM
 *To:* 1 CnC List
 *Subject:* Stus-List Teak stain?



 I have our companionway steps home for refinishing, and have just had to
 sand through a layer of what appears to be mahogany(ish) stain to get to
 the bare teak. Looking around the boat, it looks like it may have the stain
 on every teak surface. Anyone know anything about what particular stain
 they used?

 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC

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Re: Stus-List Garmin 740 for sale

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I might be interested as well.

Nate
Sarah Jean 1980 30-1 and newer Tartan 31
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior

On Sun, Jan 11, 2015 at 3:08 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I’m considering upgrading my GPS.  Anyone interested in a Garmin 740?  I
 have the GXM  SiriusXM receiver to go with it.



 Great unit.  I’m going for the newer model with more features.



 Contact me directly.



 Pete

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump parts for C C 30-1

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Defender Marine has rebuild kits for several Whale Gusher models - don't
know what our model is (been going to look one of these years) or what fits.

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
on the cold hard in the November snow  :-(
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior

On Mon, Nov 17, 2014 at 9:31 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 On the subject of bilge pumps, mine is not working.  It's the original
 pump located on the cockpit floor.  I suspect the diaphram is ruptured.
 I'm an hour from the boat and freezing; I believe it's a Whale gusher???
 Any idea where parts can be found?
 Ron
 Wild Cheri
 STL


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Re: Stus-List CC30 MK1 to windward

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

After 10 years experience, mostly on Lake Superior, with our 30-1, I can
say it handles wind and waves better than most in its size class (which is
why we bought her). Went out in a a small craft warning in September, got
caught and took a beating and deserved it, but she handled sustained 25
knots gusting to 40,and 4-7 foot seas on the nose, very well. Of course you
lose a lot of momentum heading into waves that size in a 30' 4 ton boat,
and under sail or motoring you make just a couple of knots over the ground.
But she was dry, safe, predictable (especially under sail - with about 65%
headsail and one reef in the main, we had the rail in the water but never
took solid water over the bow! That said, after 6 hours without a break at
the wheel in those kinds of conditions I was so exhausted I could hardly
dock her when we made it back into the marina just after dark. The boat can
take more than I can.

Nate Flesness
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
on the hard
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior

On Tue, Nov 4, 2014 at 8:38 AM, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 I have not had a lot of windward experiences with my new CC. Its an old
 boat but 4 years new to me. It looks like it points well thew I do loose
 some control of steering and some weather helm. So far most all of sailing
 her has been in the rivers around Beaufort and Charleston SC. Have not been
 off shore but a few times with light wind. So I would love to here if these
 boats handle well in bigger wind and waves like offshore or near shore.
 Like 29% to so 40% off the nose with 4 to 6 foot seas on the nose? Is it
 comfortable as far as 30 footer class boats go? Thanks for your incite.
 I cant wate to get some sail-time off shore this winter and spring. Its
 great living where I dont have to put the boat away in the Winter.
 --

 *Best regards,*


 *Curtis McDaniel, *


 *CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
 didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
 from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
 Discover.  -Mark Twain

 *cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


 * __/) *

 .




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Re: Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 CC 34

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

pulling the thermostat allows you to winterize the engine on the hard, and
rapidly, with a gallon or two of antifreeze (assuming she's raw water
cooled). I do this every year.

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior

On Sat, Nov 1, 2014 at 3:21 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 +1 to Jake and Burt's comments.  Some possible improvements are as
 follows.

 Roll the engine by hand while the plugs are removed...instead of pumping
 it with the starter.  Hitting the starter can/will blow the fogging oil
 out.  You just want to distribute the oil around the cylinders.

 Disconnect and plug both the air inlet and exhaust outlet.  Even though I
 fogged mine last year I still got stuck rings in two of the 3 cylinders.
 My machine shop guy is confident that by keeping the boat in the water the
 boat's motion caused the loop seal in  water muffler to push/pull air in
 and out of the engine.  The changes in outdoor temperature, heating and
 cooling the engine, cause condensation on the inside cylinders despite the
 fogging oil.

 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 CC 37+
 Solomons, MD
 On Nov 1, 2014 3:11 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I have an Atomic 4. Love it, by the way.



 Yes, run motor until up to normal operating temp before introducing
 anti-freeze. Otherwise you are just winterizing the manifold, silencer,
 pump and riser.

 I fog with a spray can of engine fog and then take out each spark plug
 and spray the fogging oil into the top of the cylinder through the spark
 plug hole. I then crank the engine briefly and re-install the plugs.

 I change the oil while it is still warm

 I make sure the batteries are fully charged and full of acid, disconnect
 them and leave them in the boat. Charged batteries don’t mind the cold at
 all.

 I also change my fuel filters while I’m in there but that is just me. I
 like to set up for turn-key starting in the spring.

 This all assumes you run with treated gas



 Burt



 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
 *Bernard
 Toews via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Saturday, November 01, 2014 2:51 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 CC 34





 I own a 1979 34 CC which has an Atomic 4 engine.

 I decided to winterize my boat myself this year rather than hire someone
 to do it. I tried to follow the instructions in the manual for draining the
 engine and putting in plumber's anti freeze.  I did this by loosening the
 intake water hose and running the motor until the anti-freeze ran out of
 the water exhaust. However, from what I read on the Net, it seems that I
 should have run the engine until it was warm so that the thermostat would
 open and then the antifreeze would have been circulated throughout the
 engine. Since I live in a harsh climate where the temperature can get to
 -40 degress Celsius, I am concerned about my engine freezing. The Atomic
 manual is completely silent about running the engine until the T-stat opens.

  Also, I would like to know what other owners of CC's with Atomic 4
 engines do when they winterize in terms of taking out the batteries or if
 they disconnect them etc.  Also, what else should be done to winterize my
 boat other than following the Atomic 4 manual and the CC Owners's Manual.
 Do most owners fog the engine by pouring oil into the carburetor. If so,
 do they use SAE HD 30 engine oil.

 Any advice would be very helpful.

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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I'm wondering too if the climate variation might be a factor in Plexus
longevity... we have very wide temperature range annually up here.

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior

On Mon, Oct 6, 2014 at 12:37 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Bill:

 Your CC 39 (I think) is probably a stiffer boat (less flexing) and that
 may be why your Plexus is surviving so well.  All I have is the experience
 on my Landfall 38 (1983) and the original windows were installed at the
 factory in Rhode Island.

 Bob

 Bob Boyer
 S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
 email: dainyr...@icloud.com
 blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

 There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
 messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar push button died

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Well, I was insulting the Yanmar starter button without enough data it
turned out that one of the starter solenoid wire spade clips was 99% off of
the solenoid metal spade, only held on by the plastic sheath, maybe making
metal to metal contact once in a while. Hard to see but easy to detect
tracing voltage drop. Crimping it a little so it takes a firm bite and
attaching it again, solved the starting issue.

Thanks as always to a great list,

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
newly on the hard,
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Suoerior


On Fri, Sep 19, 2014 at 6:24 PM, Jeff Nelson via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Not sure if the 3gms are the same as the 2gms, but there is a fuse that
 sits near the back of the engine.
 The housing of mine had cracked and caused intermittent connections.  I
 replaced it with a wireing to
 a circuit breaker on my 12 volt panel and the appropriate sized breaker.
 Just another place to look.

 --
 Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
CC 30
Halifax

 On 17/09/2014 9:53 AM, Tony Wroblewski via CnC-List wrote:

 I have had the same problem on my Yanmar 3gm30 for years. Exactly as you
 describe. Since it would start on the second try all the time it was no
 problem. One time it wouldn't start at all for 10 minutes and caused me to
 find the source.  Tightened the battery cables and no problems for a year.
 Starting to happen again and will try the cables again.

 Tony
 Triumph CC 41
 Holland, Mi

  Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2014 08:07:55 -0400
  To: nausetbe...@optonline.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar push button died
  From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
  I may have a related problem - and would like help to diagnose the cause
 before it becomes a significant issue.
 
  From time to time - not sure if it is getting more frequent - with the
 key turned, battery on and fully charged - I get nothing - not even a clunk
 - when I press the button. I press it a second time and 99% of the time the
 engine fires right up.
 
  Have any listers experienced the same - and help me identify the problem
 so I can fix it before I get to the stage where I can't start the engine at
 all.
 
  --
  Jonathan
  Indigo CC 35III
  SOUTHPORT CT
 
   On Sep 17, 2014, at 7:29, Nauset Beach via CnC-List
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
  
   Nate
  
   Had the same issue last week on my Yanmar 3GM30F with a B Type engine
 panel.
   Was getting near complete voltage drop across the 2 terminals of the
 key
   switch when the key was turned on and nothing from the button. Turned
 out
   to be the wiring harness plug at the back of the panel. Most of the
 wires
   were corroded inside the plug though all looked well from the outside.
 The
   plug was cut out and the wires connected directly. Works like a charm.
  
   So as Dave said, check all your wiring in the start circuit before you
 start
   throwing $$$ at it replacing parts.
  
   Brian
  
   -Original Message-
   From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
 cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave
   Godwin via CnC-List
   Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2014 8:16 PM
   To: Nate Flesness; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar push button died
  
   Nate, it may not be the switch. I have an original in perfect working
   condition if catch my drift...
  
   Check your battery ground/cabling/connections. Let me know if it is the
   switch and if so, you can have it.
  
   Dave
   1982 CC 37 -Ronin
  
   Sent from my iPad
  
   On Sep 16, 2014, at 19:55, Nate Flesness via CnC-List
   cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
  
   I have a 2QM15 yanmar - after a few intermittents, my engine start
 button
   has failed completely. Someone knew what Cole-Hersee switch can
 replace it -
   anyone remember, or have another suggestion?
  
   Nate
   Sarah Jean
   1980 30-1
   Siskiwit Bay Marina
   Lake Superior
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Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

A few years ago I lightly ran a cutting knife around the outside edge of
the 30-year glued windows, went inside and hit each one once, moderately,
with my fist. Every one popped right out. No gelcoat damage, but scarily
easy

Did the cast acrylic/plexus routine, was happy with nice new ports except
for the not so pretty glue line showing through #2404 bronze 3/8, but then
this year the large window started leaking again. Broken-hearted would
cover it.

One of several reasons we're currently closing on a boat with Lewmar ports.

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior


On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 7:54 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Curtis, be very careful when taking the old ones out. They are glued in
 with some powerful stuff and you stand a good chance of chipping the
 gelcoat around the windows (don't ask me how I know). You may want to try a
 dremel or one of those vibrating side cutters (Fein tool?).

 Then you have to clean up the area where the adhesive was - it was
 probably laid on pretty thick and is another dremel job - again - care.

 Some folks use a special adhesive called Plexus, which is a two part glue
 and needs a special gun for application. The windows are bonded into the
 side of the cabin and are part of the structure. You have to hold them in
 place (they are slightly bent to match the curve of your cabin). Or you can
 use Sikaflex 295, which requires a cleaner, a primer (mandatory!!!) and the
 adhesive. Don't get creative and try anything else, there are probably 100
 war stories about folks who have experimented and then got the opportunity
 to do it right the next year.

 Search through the archives on the site - most of the late '70's and later
 original CC's had glued in windows and there are a lot of threads on this
 repair. It is doable but not trivial. Jake had a pretty good description if
 I remember correctly.

 Gary Nylander
 (Been there with moderate success)


 - Original Message -
 *From:* Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *To:* CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:21 AM
 *Subject:* Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

  Good morning,
 I'm thinking of a winter project to replace the cabin side windows with
 something stronger and nice. Has anybody undergone this project that could
 share their process and maybe some photos ? Do I just cut them out with a
 razor knife and take them to a lexan shop and have them duplicate them in a
 lighter color?  Is there a framed in type? I have been stopping leaks in
 them windows sense I got the boat?

 I also want to rebuild the forward hatch and need something strong and
 that lets in more light. I need to know if the gasket around the inside is
 replaceable? Mine is cracking up and needs to be replaced. all-tho  the
 leaking looks to be the caulking of the class itself to the frame.

 If you can share some in-depth details on how the two mentioned projects
 are to be completed I would be very thankful.
 I am very good at DIY projects and could do this project without imput. It
 is so much nicer hearing from people that have done it.

 Thanks




 *Best regards,*


 *Curtis*


 *CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*


 *Port Royal,*


 *South Carolina*

  *cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


 * __/) *

 .



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Re: Stus-List Wife doesn't like it when the boat leans ( sort of )

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I too found black pipe elbows and straights, wrapped with fiberglass and a
homemade style mixer elbow (copper pipe brazed into plumbing pipe).
When I finally noticed the Yanmar manual showed something very different,
and replaced the rusting mess with a (then)  ~$120 Yanmar elbow, and high
quality rubber radiator-style wire wound hose instead of big box plumbing
pipe parts, the small exhaust leaks disappeared, as did the soot in my
engine area,  and the engine became slightly quieter..

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Laje Superior

On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 7:44 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I think you are right. Black pipe wrapped. There may have been an
 (expensive) Yanmar mixing elbow in the mix originally, but you should have
 a flange bolted to the exhaust manifold (I am speaking about my 2 cyl
 Yanmar) which has threads for the pipe and is removed with four bolts. I
 have gone through two broken 'mixing elbows' over the last 20 years. The
 rest is available from a home improvement store. The 'elbow' has to be
 welded.

 The fiberglass/asbestos(?) tape is available from Moyer Marine, the Atomic
 4 specialists.

 Gary
 30-1
 - Original Message - From: Allen White via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:31 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Wife doesn't like it when the boat leans ( sort of )



  Since we had an amazing trip up the River on Saturday running with the
 wind
 for 4 hours, a great dinner, party at another club, walk the town and a
 great breakfast, why beat into 14knts on the nose trying to make our way
 back down the narrow river home? We'll just motor through the narrows,
 drop
 the hook for lunch and then sail the rest of the way !  About 2 hours into
 the trip, she says   Why do I smell exhaust? Probably a wind eddy as we
 are passing 30 feet from a highway bridge abutment. Not believing myself,
 and noticing a change in the exhaust note, I pulled the companion way
 steps
 to have a look. Smoke, steam and water spraying all over the place. In a
 surprisingly calm voice, she asks  Do we have a fire ?  No, just a
 broken
 exhaust. What will we do ?  We are after all a sailboat, we'll sail !
 Raised the sails, and beat the rest of the trip in short tacks home, where
 several friendly members at our club were at the slip to help us in. First
 time I sailed into the slip. Nice smooth landing, all well.
 Now the point of the post: Yanmar SB 8 single.   Is the exhaust just black
 pipe wrapped with fiberglass tape ?  It appears to be nothing more. I
 don't
 know what may have been done to her before I got her, but it looks like a
 bushing, 3 inch nipple, 90, 3 inch nipple, 90, 1 1/2 inch nipple, y
 adapter
 for water outlet from top of engine, copper male to sweat fitting that is
 clamped into exhaust hose to muffler. May be slightly different as it was
 kind of dark last night while I was in there. Also any wisdom on getting
 the
 old pipe out of the top of the engine ?

 Thanks,
 Allen
 Windfall  '78 CC 26
 Poughkeepsie Yacht Club
 Hudson River  - Hyde Park, NY


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Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

If only wishing made it so

Nate

On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 2:54 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Doesn’t the 30 MK I have the same aluminum frame ports the 35 MK I has?

 Those are pretty easy to DIY.



 *Joe Della Barba*

 *Coquina*

 *CC 35 MK I*





 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dr.
 Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Tuesday, September 23, 2014 1:28 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements




 I've done a bunch of reading on this topic as my windows are cracked and
 need replacement.
 I don't have any experience actually doing it but I've read multiple
 different techniques -- so my comments should be taken with a grain (or
 bag) of salt!  Nest year I may be able to speak from experience.

 I remember one discussion on the problem with adhesives was that the
 acrylic expands and contracts at different rates than the boat (or does not
 match boat flexing) and that most people put too thin a layer of adhesive -
 which could not absorb the movement.
 The recommended solution was to use double sided tape to keep the acrylic
 a couple millimeters off the gelcoat - then squeeze the adhesive caulk in
 around the edges for the water proofing.  With more thickness there is more
 ability to absorb the different motions.

 Mark







 There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.

   - George Santayana

 On 23/09/2014 12:42 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:

  A few years ago I lightly ran a cutting knife around the outside edge of
 the 30-year glued windows, went inside and hit each one once, moderately,
 with my fist. Every one popped right out. No gelcoat damage, but scarily
 easy



 Did the cast acrylic/plexus routine, was happy with nice new ports except
 for the not so pretty glue line showing through #2404 bronze 3/8, but then
 this year the large window started leaking again. Broken-hearted would
 cover it.



 One of several reasons we're currently closing on a boat with Lewmar ports.



 Nate

 Sarah Jean
 1980 30-1

 Siskiwit Bay Marina

 Lake Superior





 On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 7:54 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Curtis, be very careful when taking the old ones out. They are glued in
 with some powerful stuff and you stand a good chance of chipping the
 gelcoat around the windows (don't ask me how I know). You may want to try a
 dremel or one of those vibrating side cutters (Fein tool?).



 Then you have to clean up the area where the adhesive was - it was
 probably laid on pretty thick and is another dremel job - again - care.



 Some folks use a special adhesive called Plexus, which is a two part glue
 and needs a special gun for application. The windows are bonded into the
 side of the cabin and are part of the structure. You have to hold them in
 place (they are slightly bent to match the curve of your cabin). Or you can
 use Sikaflex 295, which requires a cleaner, a primer (mandatory!!!) and the
 adhesive. Don't get creative and try anything else, there are probably 100
 war stories about folks who have experimented and then got the opportunity
 to do it right the next year.



 Search through the archives on the site - most of the late '70's and later
 original CC's had glued in windows and there are a lot of threads on this
 repair. It is doable but not trivial. Jake had a pretty good description if
 I remember correctly.



 Gary Nylander

 (Been there with moderate success)



   - Original Message -

 *From:* Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com

 *To:* CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 *Sent:* Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:21 AM

 *Subject:* Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements



 Good morning,

 I'm thinking of a winter project to replace the cabin side windows with
 something stronger and nice. Has anybody undergone this project that could
 share their process and maybe some photos ? Do I just cut them out with a
 razor knife and take them to a lexan shop and have them duplicate them in a
 lighter color?  Is there a framed in type? I have been stopping leaks in
 them windows sense I got the boat?



 I also want to rebuild the forward hatch and need something strong and
 that lets in more light. I need to know if the gasket around the inside is
 replaceable? Mine is cracking up and needs to be replaced. all-tho  the
 leaking looks to be the caulking of the class itself to the frame.



 If you can share some in-depth details on how the two mentioned projects
 are to be completed I would be very thankful.

 I am very good at DIY projects and could do this project without imput. It
 is so much nicer hearing from people that have done it.



 Thanks






 *Best regards,*

 *Curtis*

 *CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

 *Port Royal,*

 *South Carolina*

 *cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com

Stus-List Yanmar push button died

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I have a 2QM15 yanmar - after a few intermittents, my engine start button
has failed completely. Someone knew what Cole-Hersee switch can replace it
- anyone remember, or have another suggestion?

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior
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Stus-List Good Surveyor in Bayfield WI?

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

We're looking at another boat (the admiral has fallen for the ad for a 90's
Tartan, and I'm not resisting - but at least Tartan and CC are now one),
and I may soon need a reliable surveyor in the Bayfield area. Any
suggestions?

 I'm especially interested in someone who can really evaluate (compression
check) an engine (Westerbeke) and check for deck balsa moisture as much as
is possible.

 After lots of problem solving on various systems on our 34 year old boat,
I think I've developed a suspicious eye for many other issues

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior
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Re: Stus-List Transmission/throttle control - now funny story (long)

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

You all make me feel good about having just replaced my transmission cable
- while safely doing other things in the marina. Now I'm starting to think
about the probably 34 year old throttle cableI can imagine the funny
story possibilities.

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior


On Wed, Sep 3, 2014 at 9:37 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 As a kid I was on a charter boat coming into the main pier in Gallilee RI
 on a holiday weekend.  The skipper shifted into reverse and when nothing
 happened  yelled LOOKOUT.  Tore off the bow rail.  If it were low tide the
 cabin or flybridge would have stopped us!

 Joel


 On Wed, Sep 3, 2014 at 10:21 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Coming into Fog Cove, which is a very confined area full of anchored
 boats, I went to shift into reverse and the shifter was just loose – no
 connection to the engine anymore. I aimed the boat towards the most open
 space I could find, gave my wife the helm, and dove into the cockpit
 locker. I was trying to get the clevis pin back in its place when my foot
 hit the accumulator tank and knocked the hose off it. The hose whipped
 around and was shooting water straight up my back while I was doing this. I
 think I used up my entire store of creative cursing in 30 seconds!



 *Joe Della Barba*

 *Coquina*

 *CC 35 MK I*

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 --
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 301 541 8551

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Stus-List Genoa/Jib Sheet diameter on a 30-1, 7/16 or 1/2?

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Replacing the 135% furling genoa sheets on a 30-1 used only for cruising.
Have had 1/2. The admiral likes the solid red and green colors available
for Samson Trophy Braid but for some reason they only offer those color
options up to 7/16. At 1/2 they switch to flecked white. Any experience
with the 7/16 trophy braid re soft on not so young hands?

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior
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Re: Stus-List Fw: Atomic 4

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

fascinating link, thanks.
But there's a much bigger denominator - 12.5 million boats registered
http://www.nmma.org/news.aspx?id=18028

Basic math says we keep making boats, so the water's going to get crowded
unless we increase the sinking rate

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior


On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 1:55 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I'm forwarding this earlier thread with link to stats from USGC on boat
 accidents. Interesting info there, especially Rick picking out the 1 out of
 86 fires occurring in a sailboat.

 -Original Message- From: Rick Brass
 Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 1:31 PM
 To: 'Peter Fell' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: RE: Stus-List Atomic 4

 Very interesting statistics.

 Among other things, it seems 7 times as many people died swimming after
 boats or gear that had drifted away from the dock (see table 3) as had died
 in fires.

 Of 86 fires, only one was in a sailboat. As a matter of fact, 60% of all
 fires happened in open motorboats or jet skis (PWCs).

 I wonder just how many boats are registered in the US? Maybe 500,000? Call
 it 250, 000 to be conservative. So the chance of a fire is something like
 86/250,000=0.034%

 For myself, I've always thought the concern over gas power vs. diesel on a
 sailboat was way overblown. Emotional not logical. And I think it was Danny
 made the case very well that the DIY installation of a remanufactured A4
 for
 around $4k in one day makes a lot of sense compared to installing a diesel,
 tank, prop, shaft, wiring, engine panel, etc. for $10-12k.

 Rick Brass

 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter
 Fell
 Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 1:50 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4

 Interesting stats from USCG:

 http://www.uscgboating.org/statistics/accident_statistics.aspx

 I haven't read through the entire document but from 2012:

 Out of 2454 accidents related to operation of vessel, 21 were a caused by
 failure to ventilate. 0 deaths.

 Out of 468 accidents related to failure of boat or boat equipment, 12 fuel
 system failures and 6 ventilation failures. 0 deaths.

 Out of 694 accidents related to miscellaneous causes, 66 were caused by
 ignition of fuel or vapor. 1 death.

 I'm assuming that the miscellaneous category includes ignition of other
 sources such as propane heating / cooking and perhaps alcohol stoves.

 If you have a gas outboard on your boat then you already carry gasoline.
 Given that the tank usually isn't internal but still I think the
 percentages
 overall are quite low and of course those stats would include accidents
 related to outboards, I am fairly sure.

 When I rebuilt my A4 I replaced the old aluminum fuel tank and all my fuel
 lines and fittings at the same time  since with the engine in-place,
 the
 old tank wasn't coming out without some significant surgery. The new tank I
 can fit through the cockpit locker no problem.

 I also made sure that the low-oil pressure cut-off switch for the fuel pump
 was replaced and working and properly fused. The existing switch was not
 working and had been bypassed!! ... I am pretty sure by a mechanic!! (since
 the PO did not do any of his own maintenance or repairs).

 -Original Message-
 From: OldSteveH
 Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 9:06 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4

 Three years ago I was doing work up my mast about 100 ft away from a 40`
 wooden Chriscraft which exploded during refuelling.
 It was shocking and there was no warning for those nearby. My point - it's
 more than rhetoric or something you only hear about. It can actually
 happen.

 Second observation - a friend rebuilt his A4 last winter, reinstalled in
 the
 spring and found out his tranny was seized. RR all over again.
 The message - take the time to go over everything and rebuild/refurbish as
 necessary. You don't want to take it out twice. Of course same goes for any
 engine.

 3rd - my 3GM will use about 1/4 tank of fuel motoring and motor sailing for
 13 hours. How will that compare with gasoline - I think there's a big
 difference.

 Not criticizing the idea of keeping an A4, just being aware of some risks
 and differences.

 Cheers,

 Steve Hood
 S/V Diamond Girl
 CC 34
 Lions Head ON



 --

 Message: 1
 Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2014 15:26:16 GMT
 From: djhaug...@juno.com djhaug...@juno.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4
 Message-ID: 20140129.102616.2156...@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

 Every time someone brings up the A4, the diesel suggestions start to flow.
 LOL Okay the guy needs a head, he can buy a completely new aftermarket one
 from Moyer for $450 and be back on the water in, literally hours after
 receiving it...  OOORRR...  he can buy a used 

Stus-List butyl cleanup?

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Planning on cleaning and painting the storage areas on our 30-1. The
wonderfully immortal butyl hull/deck sealant has dripped and drooped in
many places. Any tips on the best cleanup strategy?

(PS. It was gusting 30-35 knots and 86F in the marina Sunday, but half a
mile out our neighbors reported 40 degrees F and that their winter parkas
were not enough so they came back in)

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior
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Re: Stus-List Beneteau

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Just spent the weekend (finally) getting my boat launched with a working
power train, but all weekend there was
the meditative tap tap tap of little hammers and chisels from nearby, as
the sad owners of a very pretty newer  Beneteau spent yet another day
patiently chipping and chipping and chipping the epoxy barrier coat off of
their entire red- rusting-iron keel. And this was a freshwater boat!
They found grinding and sanding even slower.
I'm not sure what they will do to it next, but it made me feel a lot better
about my annoying CC smile ... a small thing in comparison.

and if anyone else still has the original 1980 packing gland hose, let me
strongly recommend not leaving home with it.
Just replaced mine since I was putting the engine back in, and the
condition of the old hose
 and the CC  fiberglass job connecting the stern tube to the hull...  was
more than  a bit scary
 (and I even considered leaving well enough alone - sure glad I decided to
replace and then also epoxy repair around the stern tube).

Nate
:Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior




On Tue, Jun 24, 2014 at 8:01 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Going over to the dark side.



 *The Beneteau Group announced it bought Rec Boat Holdings, a group of U.S.
 brands owned by Platinum Equity Group, which includes Michigan-based Four
 Winns, Glastron, Wellcraft and Scarab.*



 *Beneteau says the acquisition is in line with the group’s development
 strategy for the North American market. The private equity group retains
 ownership of Flippin, Ark.-based Fishing Boat Holdings, maker of the
 Ranger, Triton and Stratos boat brands that were also acquired at that
 time.*



 Bill Coleman

 CC 39

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Stus-List diesel fuel line with banjo fitting

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I need a new short 2QM15 diesel fuel line (part 17 on their diagram
attached) with a banjo fitting on one end (apparently ripped the hose while
pulling the engine last year). These have a press-fit brass female
connection. My regional Yanmar supplier (Toad, formerly Torresen) has these
backordered...

Anyone have ideas or experience?

Thanks

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior
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Re: Stus-List Mast Holes...now mast wrap

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

mast wrap warms up the cabin because it lowers heat loss? Interesting.
Been thinking about adding one for halyard sound-muffling and aesthetics,
but hadn't thought about warmth.
Warmth matters on Lake Superior...

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Cornucopia, WI


On Tue, Jun 10, 2014 at 3:30 PM, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 I love the idea but I have a mast wrap that the prior owner provided.  Its
 amazing how such a simple device can warm up the cabin.

 I have other ventilation...so if you do too, I would heartily recommend a
 mast wrap.

 David F. Risch
 1981 40-2
 (401) 419-4650 (cell)


 --
 Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2014 20:13:23 +
 To: johnpr...@comcast.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: CC question
 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

 Would it work better to put the holes below the floorboards, to suck air
 from the bilge?


 Chuck
 Resolute
 1990 CC 34R
 Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 --
 *From: *CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *To: *David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com, CNC boat owners,
 cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent: *Monday, June 9, 2014 10:02:38 PM
 *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Fwd: CC question

 Yup – sure can.  They are an ingenious way to ensure good ventilation
 below.  The mast acts like a chimney especially on not days.  The holes
 suck out cabin air and it exits at the mast head.  Air gets in to the cabin
 through the main cabin hatch and engine vents.  Never had a problem with
 musty air below decks



 Cheers





 John and Maryann

 Legacy III

 1982 CC 34

 Noank, CT



 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
 Knecht via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Monday, June 09, 2014 9:26 PM
 *To:* CnC CnC discussion list
 *Subject:* Stus-List Fwd: CC question



 I got this from a friend who is looking for a new boat.  Can someone
 clarify what the holes are for?  Thanks- Dave



 Aries

 1990 CC 34+

 New London, CT




 Begin forwarded message:




 *From: *jwstah...@comcast.net jwstah...@comcast.net

 *Subject: CC question*

 *Date: *June 9, 2014 at 4:27:21 PM EDT

 *To: *F5, David davidakne...@gmail.com



 Hi Dave,

 I've looked at 3 CCs now, and each of them has a number (6 or 8) of 1/4
 holes drilled in the mast section just below the mast boot in the cabin,
 port side only.  The first time I saw this, I was concerned about the
 strength of the section.  After seeing three, however, I believe there must
 be a good reason for the holes.  Is it a way to control humidity within the
 section?  Is there another reason?  Is it something I should be concerned
 about?

 Thanks,

 John




 --
http://www.avast.com/

 This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
 http://www.avast.com/ protection is active.


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Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Yanmar Shift cable?

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

In case it helps, just replacing mine too.
Same pedestal control setup, slightly different diesel (2QM15 with
Hurth/Kanzaki transmission).
Morse teleflex, 10 foot length.

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior


On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 11:09 AM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Curtis, dig the old cable out and go to your marine supplier with the old
 one to make sure you have the right ends and length.

 Rich

  On May 27, 2014, at 12:44, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:
 
  I have a CC30 MK1 with a throttle on the right and a shift on my left
 on the Edison pedestal. straight up and down motion on them both.
  Any Idea what cable I would use to replace the shift cable?
 
 
 
  thanks Curtis
 
 
 
  --
  All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
 recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
 dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
 open eyes, to make it possible.
 
  T. E. Lawrence
 
  .
 
 
 
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Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Yanmar Shift cable?

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

My even bigger problem (after working hard getting the top plate off as
noted, PB Blaster, square-shafted screwdriver in a  crescent wrench aided
by a vise-grip on the head of the screw at the same time - takes only three
hands) was getting the cable free from the retaining pin. We ended up
drilling a new hole in the side of the vertical casting to press the pin
out, after removing the hair-diameter cotter with small needle nose. I'll
consider this newly-drilled hole a nice feature the mfg. forgot to include,
until someone knows of a better way to get these apart... And by the way
the freed parts make a nice ting sound when they fall down the tube into
your after bilge recommend a dishpan or something be placed underneath
first

Nate


On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 1:29 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  The cable is pretty easy to measure. The one end is hooked to the shift
 lever and the other to the transmission. You can follow the old one and get
 your length. It is (as was said) a Morse cable and is available at many
 boat stores. It is threaded at each end - you take the ends off the old and
 put on the new.

 The biggest problem is getting the pedestal apart to get to the lever end
 - I had to use heat and solvent (PB Blaster or WD40) and an impact
 screwdriver to get the flat plate off the top of the casting which holds
 the lever.

 Don't scrimp on the length, if you are uncertain, buy the next longer
 cable, it can always run a bit loose in the lazerette area. I don't
 remember the lengthy, and was replacing the throttle cable which may be a
 different length.

 Gary
 #593

 - Original Message -
 *From:* Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *To:* Nate Flesness nateflesn...@gmail.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Tuesday, May 27, 2014 1:14 PM
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Yanmar Shift cable?

 That was going to be the plan if I did not get a confident answer.
  I just didn't want to down the boat too long.
 Thanks.





 On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 12:57 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 In case it helps, just replacing mine too.
 Same pedestal control setup, slightly different diesel (2QM15 with
 Hurth/Kanzaki transmission).
 Morse teleflex, 10 foot length.

 Nate
 Sarah Jean
 1980 30-1
 Siskiwit Bay Marina
 Lake Superior


 On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 11:09 AM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Curtis, dig the old cable out and go to your marine supplier with the
 old one to make sure you have the right ends and length.

 Rich

  On May 27, 2014, at 12:44, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:
 
  I have a CC30 MK1 with a throttle on the right and a shift on my left
 on the Edison pedestal. straight up and down motion on them both.
  Any Idea what cable I would use to replace the shift cable?
 
 
 
  thanks Curtis
 
 
 
  --
  All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
 recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
 dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
 open eyes, to make it possible.
 
  T. E. Lawrence
 
  .
 
 
 
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 of page at:
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 --
 All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
 recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
 dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
 open eyes, to make it possible.

 T. E. Lawrence

 .



  --

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Stus-List need adapter to connect mixing elbow 1.5 OD to muffler 1.25 OD

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Finishing reinstalling my Yanmar 2QM15 in my 30-1, I need to connect the
official Yanmar mixing elbow (OD 1.5) to the orig equipment metal muffler
tube (OD 1.25). Anyone have a handy source for a suitable adapter? I have
high temp radiator style hoses in both ID sizes.

The P.O had a bizarre collection of hardware store galvanized pipe
connecting a homemade elbow to the muffler. The pipes always leaked a
little. I'm trying to get back to something resembling the original
setup.

Thanks

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
SIskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior
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Re: Stus-List Small teak box found on my boat?

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I have one and think it was to store halyard winches (when those were by
the mast).

Nate
1980 30-1


On Sat, May 24, 2014 at 6:26 AM, Curtis via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.comwrote:

 When I purchased my boat it had a small teal box with no bottom in it?
  I have seen these on other boats on the cabin top just forward of the
 mast. It has a smoked plxi-glass lid. It must be designed to stay out
 because the PO had a nice canvas cover for it? Thanks for your help.

 Curtis.

 --
 All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
 recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
 dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
 open eyes, to make it possible.

 T. E. Lawrence

 .




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Re: Stus-List Small teak box found on my boat?

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

winch *handles*, of course


On Sat, May 24, 2014 at 6:53 AM, Nate Flesness nateflesn...@gmail.comwrote:

 I have one and think it was to store halyard winches (when those were by
 the mast).

 Nate
 1980 30-1


 On Sat, May 24, 2014 at 6:26 AM, Curtis via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 When I purchased my boat it had a small teal box with no bottom in it?
  I have seen these on other boats on the cabin top just forward of the
 mast. It has a smoked plxi-glass lid. It must be designed to stay out
 because the PO had a nice canvas cover for it? Thanks for your help.

 Curtis.

 --
 All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
 recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
 dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
 open eyes, to make it possible.

 T. E. Lawrence

 .




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Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Thanks to all - a small wheel puller plate with the right bolts let us
get the coupler off the shaft, much like several helpful suggesions. REALLY
GLAD I did this, pulled off the 34 yr old aging stiff packing gland hose
and found it just barely covered a small hole in the boat - unusually poor
fiberglass work around the stern tube plus (I'd guess) the edge of an old
clamp chipped through a small spot at the forward end of the stern tube -
hard to see, but a hole in the boat. Epoxy and glass work fixed it.
Reassembly delayed to let it cure, but whew

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay, Lake Superior
with very little ice left floating around...






On Fri, May 16, 2014 at 6:36 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

   I’m getting set up to do the same thing and from my investigations and
 discussions with local marine mechanics, I’ve determined:

 1) The coupling would be a tolerance fit.
 2) Cutting the old coupling off is the quickest method  and you should
 do that at the keyway to minimize the potential for scoring the shaft
 itself. Otherwise a plate made-up with the same bolt pattern as the
 coupling and a rachet socket placed between the plate and the coupling +
 bolts through the plate and coupling can be used to press the coupling off.
 3) Regardless of how you take it off, replace the coupling and take the
 shaft and new coupling it to a machinist to have a fit-and-face done on it
 and the shaft checked for straightness.
 4) Might as well plan on doing the cutlass bearing at the same time.

 An old coupling would not have a tight fit on the shaft and the shaft
 torque would be taken up only by the shaft key  shear that and the
 shaft backs out of the stuffing box and then you’d get to test out how good
 your bilge pump is.

 Peter Fell
 Sidney, BC
 CC 27 MkIII


  *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Friday, May 16, 2014 2:01 PM
 *To:* Graham Collins cnclistforw...@hotmail.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

  If all else fails, cut it in half and buy a new one. :)

 Dennis C.
 Touché 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA

 Sent from my iPhone

 On May 16, 2014, at 3:36 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  I used a 3 arm puller, PB blaster, a blowtorch, and the largest wrench I
 could fit on the puller, with a pipe on that as an extension.  I had a 12
 adjustable wrench wedged in to keep the shaft from turning (the puller
 would have turned with it).  The adjustable wrench now has a very
 impressive bend to it, and it took a fair bit of heat and force to get
 off.  Hopefully yours isn't that difficult.  And as Mainsail says in his
 blog, easiest way is to cut it off...  if time is money, go that route.

 Graham Collins
 Secret Plans
 CC 35-III #11

 On 2014-05-16 11:52 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:

 I need to replace the stuffing box hose. Boat (30-1) is on the hard and I
 have the new Buck Algonquin hose, new packing, new clamps. Anyone have
 advice re removal of the forward prop shaft coupling? It is disconnected
 from the transmission and I've pulled the prop shaft aft, so there is some
 clearance between the couplings. The pbase website suggests that these
 couplings may be press fit (as in machine shop press) PB blaster
 applied, light taps with mallet do nothing so far, considering heating it
 with a torch?

 Nate
 Sarah Jean
 1980 30-1
 Siskiwit Bay Marine
 Lake Superior
 (with floating ice chunks mid-May.!)


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Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I need to replace the stuffing box hose. Boat (30-1) is on the hard and I
have the new Buck Algonquin hose, new packing, new clamps. Anyone have
advice re removal of the forward prop shaft coupling? It is disconnected
from the transmission and I've pulled the prop shaft aft, so there is some
clearance between the couplings. The pbase website suggests that these
couplings may be press fit (as in machine shop press) PB blaster
applied, light taps with mallet do nothing so far, considering heating it
with a torch?

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marine
Lake Superior
(with floating ice chunks mid-May.!)
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Re: Stus-List List Problems

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I don't think there's an adequate way to tell you how grateful we are for
your continued efforts on behalf of this - the CC community you built -
especially given such personal hardships, IT hassles, and the fact that you
recently retired from being an owner yourself.

I for one could not keep her sailing safely and well without you and the
combined expertise of the many people you have brought together here.

Nate Flesness
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
on the cold hard at
Siskiwit Bay Marina (where the snow is finally ending)
Lake Superior



On Thu, May 1, 2014 at 2:53 PM, Stu via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.comwrote:

   Yesterday, approximately 125 members received notices saying their
 subscriptions had been cancelled due to excessive or fatal bounces.

 Unfortunately, I was in the hospital having cataract surgery and trying to
 read the messages and reply to them was very difficult – I was blind in one
 eye and could not see out the other one.  At least today, one eye is
 working.

 Yesterday’s problems were not with the list but with the ISP’s involved.
 It is mainly a Yahoo problem (right now) but includes:
 comcast, hotmail, AOL, Ameritech, Sympatico, Rogers, Bell, Reinardy, Live,
 Wbryant, Outlook, MSN, SBCGlobal, Acesdirect, Netscape, SNet, ATT and
 probably a bunch of others.

 I am in the process of resetting everyone’s subscriptions so that they
 receive mail and am working with our List Hosting Company to overcome these
 problems.  In order to get around Yahoo’s problem, you will notice the
 “From” box on your emails, says “via CnC-List” instead of the sender’s name.

 SO PLEASE, SIGN YOUR EMAILS

 If you find you get bumped again, it is suggested that you get a freebie
 email address from a company that is not listed above and use it strictly
 for emails from the list.

 I will try to keep on top of this problem and advise you accordingly.

 Stu

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