Re: Stus-List C 37+ Mast Head Light

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Ha ha, been there!  No genius here!

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 9, 2020, at 17:07, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi
> To avoid two trips up the stick, know of a replacement LED bulb in kind for 
> the mast head light?  
> 
> Thanks
> Rob
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Sen-Dure heat exchanger

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I am seeing a drawing on www.heatexchandeshop.com
There is also a website. Www.sen-Dure.com.  Hope it helps.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 30, 2020, at 06:06, Tortuga via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi. Is there anyone out there who has a diagram, instructions, or other 
> information about a Sen-Dure heat exchanger, model 2827? I have one mounted 
> on my Yanmar 2QM15 engine.
> I'm eager to change the antifreeze in the unit, but where it is mounted, I 
> have very little access to it. It's difficult even to see where the heat 
> exchanger begins and ends. I would rather not detach it if I can avoid that. 
> I'm sure there must be a drain somewhere that I can't see.
> I'd appreciate any guidance. 
> Thanks
> Derek Kennedy
> SV Tortuga, 1979 C 30 mk1
> Ballantyne's Cove, NS 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fuel Lift Pump

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I changed mine out.  I don’t recall losing any oil.
Rick
Paikea. 37+.  Bremerton, WA

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 21, 2020, at 16:04, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> So, if I understand recent responses to my recent post on running out of 
> fuel at less than an empty tank, the theory is that with a weak fuel lift 
> pump at a certain fuel level in the tank, the pump would stop lifting fuel, 
> thereby causing the engine to run out of fuel.
> 
> So, guess I’ll take a shot at replacing it and seeing if that solves the 
> problem.
> 
> Anyone replace the fuel lift pump on a Yanmar 3HM35F?  I am wondering if the 
> arm that rides the cam is above the at recast engine oil level.
> 
> thx
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Overheating Yanmar 3GMD

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Just a suggestion, if it happens again, pull the hose off of the through hull 
supplying raw water to your Yanmar.  Open the valve and you should get a face 
full of SF Bay.
If not, you may have sucked something into the raw water feed that did not hit 
the filter.  In my case I found a very surprised looking smelt.
I religiously watch the exhaust.  I have been told that some engines produce 
steam, but I don’t understand why the manufacturer would design an engine  that 
would exceed the cooling capacity.  I understand in very cold weather the warm 
water will create some steam.  With my boats, it was always a symptom of 
something in the system failing.
Cheers
Rick.
Paikea C 37+

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 20, 2020, at 19:45, Al Serrato via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I had an unusual experience yesterday and am looking for any ideas on next 
> steps.
> 
> I have a Yanmar 3GMD in my ‘81 C 34. I had used the motor for about 20 
> minutes going out with no problems, but after starting it in heavy winds, it 
> rather quickly quit on me and would not start. I was heeling when I started 
> it and the tank was half full, so I bled the line thinking that some air had 
> gotten in, and it started right up. 
> 
> It ran for about 10 minutes and everything seemed normal although I thought 
> it sounded a little different. I couldn’t put my finger on what it was that 
> was different, and thought maybe it was my imagination but then the high temp 
> alarm went off and the gauge showed probably around 180. (It normally runs at 
> about 130). I shut it down and ended up getting a tow back in. The raw water 
> strainer was clean so I thought maybe the impeller might have failed, since 
> it’s close to two years old. But when I opened the pump, it was fine. I 
> replaced it with a new one anyway and ran the engine for 45 minutes today at 
> the dock, under load, and it ran fine.
> 
> I always have white smoke coming out of the exhaust when I’m revving past 
> 1800 or so, but I don’t know if what I saw today was more than usual. The 
> engine was clean, no drips or leaks, no smells inside, just the usual smoke 
> from the exhaust.
> 
> I couldn’t figure out why both the fuel and the raw water, which seem 
> unrelated, would both have problems at the same time, so I thought maybe it 
> was a blown head gasket or something like that. I figured when I started it 
> today, it would probably overheat right away again...but it didn’t. 
> 
> Any similar experiences or ideas on what it might be? I’ve got a call into 
> the mechanic but haven’t heard back yet.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Al Serrato
> Senza Fine
> San Francisco Bay
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List icebox drain

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Good  question! I will take a look!  I can’t remember.

Rick 

> On Jun 23, 2020, at 10:20, Matt Wolford via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Rick:
>  
> That’s interesting.  Which thru-hull is the source of your 
> raw water intake?
>  
> Matt
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Rick Rohwer via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 1:14 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Rick Rohwer 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List icebox drain
>  
> The galley foot pump in my 37+ is configured to pump the ice box into the 
> sink, or by switching two valves, use raw water for dish rinsing etc to save 
> fresh water. Took me a while to figure it out but it’s ingenious!
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List icebox drain

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

The galley foot pump in my 37+ is configured to pump the ice box into the sink, 
or by switching two valves, use raw water for dish rinsing etc to save fresh 
water. Took me a while to figure it out but it’s ingenious!

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 23, 2020, at 09:36, Matt Wolford via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> FWIW, my 42 Custom (six years older) has a hose draining from underneath the 
> icebox to a location a two or three feet inboard under the floorboards (just 
> forward of the engine).  From there, gravity takes the water to the bilge.  
> The hose looks like it was cut by a PO.  I have toying with the idea of 
> buying a footpump to drain it to the galley sink.  There is evidence that 
> this may have been the original setup. 
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of George Cone via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, June 22, 2020 3:42 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: George Cone 
> Subject: Stus-List icebox drain
>  
> I have an 1981 C & C 40. I have never been able to find the output of the 
> drain line on the icebox. Where does it come out from the floorboards where I 
> can find it- under the sink area? It seems to travel that way from the 
> icebox? Is there any valve on it?
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> George Cone
> Burlington, VT
> !981 C 40
> UNSINKABLE II
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Thumping at 6.5 knots

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I wrote several responses but they all sounded stupid.  
We do get some vibration in our rig from different engine/driveline speeds but 
not a clunking.  We get a weird sound (Could be a clunking) if the dinghy is 
swinging in the davits.  I have forgotten to pull the bumpers up resulting in a 
thumping sound on the hull.
You are a ubermensch for diving in the sound to take a look.  I watched a guy 
do that in an anchorage on San Juan Island as the sun went down once and I got 
cold just watching.  His anxious girlfriend was very attractive and warmed him 
amply upon clearing a dock line from  the prop.
If you sailed a bit On the trip and didn’t feel the clunking, that might give 
you some direction, but not definitively.  
Based on what you have said, I pick driveline! Not rudder. Maybe a worn 
bearing. 
It is a mystery!

Rick
Paikea 37+
Bremerton, WA



Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 15, 2020, at 20:44, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Charging Problem

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

My panels were pretty filthy this spring and I was impressed with the 
improvement when well scrubbed.

Rick
Paikea

Sent from my 
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Electric windlass

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

One of the most despised machines on all four sailboats I have owned is the 
electric windlass.  You literally don’t know when it will and won’t function!  
Buy a manual winch or go to the gym regularly.

Rick
Paikea
37+. 
Puget Sound

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 29, 2020, at 17:53, Andrew Burton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I was very glad I installed a windlass on my 40. I got a low profile Lewmar 
> with a gypsy that would take chain or rope.
> Andy
> Masquerade
> 
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> https://burtonsailing.com/
> phone  +401 965 5260
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Apr 29, 2020 at 7:40 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hello all,
>> 
>> I have a C 37/40+ with a 15 kg/35 lb. Delta anchor and 4' of 8 MM chain.  
>> I can get the anchor up reasonably easily.  I am thinking of upgrading the 
>> anchor to a 45 lb. Rocna or Mantus M1 because that is the size recommended 
>> by the manufacturer.  My only concern is whether I'm going to find it 
>> particularly difficult to pull up without a windlass.
>> 
>> I have a good anchor roller, and have installed a chain lock so I can pause 
>> if needed because the boat swings or to help pull the anchor out once we get 
>> the rode/chain vertical.  
>> 
>> I'm not a hugely muscular guy, just a typical 5' 9" guy in his later 50s.
>> 
>> I'd really like to avoid putting in a windlass, at least for now and the 
>> Delta has held pretty well in the sandy bottom here in west Florida.
>> 
>> Thanks for your insights
>> 
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
>> Madeira Beach, FL
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List circuit breakers

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

You have to open the panel and the breakers are inside.  I thought I needed to 
change one last year and it looked daunting!  Bought one and took boat to 
technician. Turned out it wasn’t the breaker.  He indicated that it very seldom 
is a failure of the breaker but usual a bad ground connection.  Hope that helps

Rick
C 37+. Paikea
Bremerton, WA

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 22, 2020, at 09:19, David Knecht via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
>  I always tell my students, “there are no dumb questions”, but this is one 
> where I really should already know the answer.  For some reason, I got it in 
> my head that the switches on my panel were circuit breakers.  I don’t think I 
> have ever had one pop, and I realized the other day that none of them are 
> labelled with an amperage.  So now I am wondering if they are just on/off 
> switches.  I have looked online and see that you can buy similar panel 
> switches that incorporate a circuit breaker and those are labelled with the 
> amperage.   So are these breakers or switches?  If switches, how are the 
> original panel circuits fused or maybe the question should be, how are they 
> supposed to be fused?  Thanks- Dave
> 
> David Knecht
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List NW circulation

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Bill, 
We run a small radiant heater in the bow with a dehumidifier in the stern all 
winter long. I run the water from the dehumidifier into the bilge.  The bilge 
pump takes care of the excess water (which is fresh water and less smelly)
 We stay in the water year round!  
I have owned some other boats, specifically an Ericson 36 that had dorades that 
provided pretty good circulation ( and less bad smells than our C 37+).  I 
love thw 37+ but there is no air circulation unnless you run power.
Running the engine and using the boat  in the winter also dries the boat out 
but man does it get cold for the guy steering the vessel! 
We took her to Seattle for Christmas last year and I froze my ass off.  Pulled 
into Shilshole in Ballard and spent the night defrosting my fingers on flaming 
tequilla shots.  Burned off a resplendent goatee I had accumulated.  Arrived in 
Seattle a day late and entertained family and friends aboard Paikea for a 
couple of days.  We had an adventurous fun trip but it was coold!  
Happy new year!

Rick
Paikea 37+

> On Jan 21, 2020, at 11:17 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I wonder if anyone has any profound opinions on condensation, two aspects in 
> particular I am concerned with.
> One is in the engine, I have seen boats who have plugged the exhaust pipe(s), 
> and maybe even the intake inside the boat – 
>  
> And also in the cabin. I usually leave a hatch and something else on the 
> other end of the boat open, so some air can circulate throughout the winter.
> Then I began to doubt the usefulness of this a couple weekends ago, when It 
> hit 71 here, and was still 45 down in the cabin.
> I noticed lots of condensation below, which really bothers me.
>  
> Does anyone know what the best solution is ?
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Erie PA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Do oil filter magnets work? - YouTube

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JW1RfA5Tn7w


Sent from my iPad

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Force 10 Stove Parts?

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Sure Marine rocks!  
Is Force 10 gone?  
I talked with them a few years ago and they requested that I order parts from 
Sure Marine.  At that time Sure ordered regularly but wanted to minimize 
freight by ordering in truckload quantity.  It took longer unless you agreed to 
shipping and handling.

They may have distributors in other markets.

Rick
Paikea. 37+


Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 10, 2019, at 18:20, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Edd,
> try sure marine in seattle. 
> https://www.suremarineservice.com/Galley/Force-10/
> Doug Mountjoy
> 
>> On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 9:13 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Listers,
>> 
>> Anyone know a good source for Force 10 stove parts? 
>> 
>> I’m looking for the sliding piece of metal tube with the knob that keeps the 
>> stove from gimbaling and a replacement “face plate” which sits behind the 
>> knobs. 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
>> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>> 
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Douglas Mountjoy
> 253-208-1412
> Port Orchard YC, WA
> Rebecca Leah
> LF39
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Max prop

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

We went from 3 blade fixed to 3 blade max prop a couple of years ago.  Huge 
difference sailing as expected and I think it backs and fills better than with 
the fixed prop. I am considering pitching it slightly heavier on the next haul 
out this winter based on info on this fantastic forum.  

Thanks all for the great info

Rick
Paikea 37+

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 25, 2019, at 12:14 PM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bruce,
> 
> We put a flex-o-fold 2 blade on our 33-ll after repowering her better 
> reverse, and power in forward. l seldom try WOT, as I have plenty of speed at 
> 2700 rpm. 9 or 10 years later no issues.
> 
> Paul
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Bruce Whitmore 
> via CnC-List 
> Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2019 1:14:36 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
> Subject: Stus-List Folding & Feathering Prop Recommendations
>  
> Hello all,
> 
> I know this has been discussed a lot on the board in the past, but given the 
> recent discussions of over-propping on the part of flex-o-fold, I'd like to 
> re-ask the question.  The reason is that a folding prop is definitely in my 
> future, as we have a fixed 3 blade prop on the boat now.  We also sail in an 
> area where crab pots are extremely common from October through April.  For 
> that reason alone I am leaning toward a folding prop.  I also saw the rather 
> well put together article in which a test of folding and feather props was 
> performed - the one touted on flex-o-fold's website.  
> 
> By the way, in exchanging emails with flex-o-fold, they are recommending a 3 
> blade version, so if vibration is an issue with your two blade prop, that may 
> not apply to me.
> 
> With all these considerations in mind, when it comes to a folding/feathering 
> prop, what do you have, and why do you like it?
> 
> Looking forward to your insights,
> 
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C/40+
> "Astralis"
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Mast tuning for crew

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I had a wonderful crew member (and beautiful woman) who totally unbalanced my 
(then) Cal 20! 
l really hated to see her go. Haunts me to this day!
I guess I should have had a bigger C
Rick
Paikea 37+
BREMERTON, WA

Rick Rohwer 
509 306 1094



> On Aug 20, 2019, at 10:18, Rob Ball via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Surely the shrouds are always the same length, so you can see the turnbuckles 
> to make sure the two sides are similar.
> For many years I was told our boats leaned to one side or the other, and that 
> I should plan on getting them to lean to starboard (the favored tack in the 
> Bermuda Race) . . . but the interiors are never symmetrical, and tankage is 
> worse . . .
> Probably the important thing is that the mast lines up with the keel.  The 
> keel mounting could be out 1/4 of a degree and it would be a real project to 
> measure that and get the mast to match.
> Suffice to say, that differences from one tack or the other can be caused by 
> a number of factors  . . . .
> I dealt with a 150 yacht last year, and they had the same problem.  It 
> eventually turned out the foil shape on one side of the rudder was slightly 
> different than the foil shape on the other, and the result was a starboard 
> tack bias  . .  . . . . .
> So, you might check your keel foils and rudder foils for symmetry . . . . and 
> check that the rudder lines up with the keel . . . . Indeed a bit more 
> complicated than measuring shrouds  . . .
>  
>  
> Rob Ball
> C 34
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List I used to do this and got lazy some years ago!

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Good info thx

Rick Rohwer 
509 306 1094



> On Aug 20, 2019, at 12:48, David Knecht via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have been reading about Barber Haulers to help with reaching by getting the 
> clew further outboard and keeping the leech from twisting off.  I was 
> thinking of a snatch block on the toe rail and a line snap shackled to the 
> clew attachment point to accomplish this.  However, I have also seen people 
> using their whisker pole on the leeward side to hold the genoa clew outboard 
> and up.  Has anyone compared these options?  The pole seems more of a hassle, 
> but should be more effective.  Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List more on external effects of wind on mast tune-Coriolis effect | Definition of Coriolis effect at Dictionary.com

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

https://www.dictionary.com/browse/coriolis-effect


Rick Rohwer 
509 306 1094



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Sardine in intake

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

David,
We sucked an apparently curious sardine headfirst into the intake while
visiting Desolation Sound a few years back.  Discovered the issue much the
same way you did by noticing increased steam in the exhaust. Idled in to an
anchorage and starting at the pump worked backward to the intake, where
 removing the intake hose I could see the small fish limply staring at me!
Poked at him a little and most of him shot into the boat, and naturally a
few gallons of saltwater before I could get the hose remounted. Problem
solved!
Rick
Paikea 37+
Bremerton, WA

On Friday, August 9, 2019, David Knecht via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Last week on a cruise, we ran the motor while at anchor to warm the water
> tank for showers.  When we started the engine the next morning, I noticed
> the sound of water from the exhaust seemed off and sure enough, a few
> minutes later the engine began to overheat.  We re-anchored and I went
> below to check the strainer basket which had a bit of grass in it, but not
> enough to plug it up.  My wife (bless her heart) dove in and saw a big
> clump of seaweek attached to the hull where the intake should be.  She
> managed to clear it and we got under way with no more trouble.  One lesson
> is to be careful of running the engine when the boat is at rest as I am
> sure you are much more likely to suck stuff into the intake as opposed to
> when the boat is moving at 6 knots (that has never happened to me).  But
> the experience got me thinking about how to resolve the problem of a
> plugged intake without swimming.  Is it possible to take the basket out of
> the water intake strainer and run something flexible and stiff down the
> tube and clear the intake without diving?  I am thinking of stiff wire or
> something like the fiberglass snake I use for running wires through small
> spaces. Anyone done this successfully?   Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Diesel engine fire-I chose a Halon ext for my engine

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I think Halon is nearly perfect for bilge/mechanical area.on the inert gas
sinks like propane, and smothers any fire by denying it oxygen. It also
doesn’t hurt the intake system on your most likely, running engine. I
learned a lot from a previous rear engine auto engine compartment fire.  I
proudly shot a powder type extinguisher on the running engine and got to
rebuild the engine on my original 1960 Porsche 356.
If the Halon was released by the heat sensing valve, it will immediately
stop your engine and shouldn’t effect the engine when restarted.  The inert
gas is pulled to the spaces that are on fire.
 Obviously the Halon will not bode well for any oxygen breathing organisms
so some airing out would be required.
I am not certain if they are readily available any more. I have had them on
3 different boats. I was told that unlike powdered systems, if they weigh
the same as new, they are as good as new.

I think mine is a “Fireboy”. I think I will check to see if they are still
available! Installation in the engine compartment is very simple.

Rick
Paikea 37+
Bremerton, WA

On Sunday, June 2, 2019, Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
wrote:

> David, if you must provide an extinguisher specifically for the engine
> compartment, I would look at something like a Fireboy automatic discharge
> extinguisher. They use a “clean” product and it’s activated by a sprinkler
> head type device activated by a specific temperature of 175F. There are
> other brands too and they can all be mounted inside the engine compartment
> with no fire port required. I have never tried one but probably should, the
> electrical components in the engine compartment are my concern not the
> diesel. It looks like 25 cubic feet for just less than $200 if that helps.
>
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
> Midland On
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Running light bulb access 37+

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

TOM, you can take it off like I did when the lenz from from the aft white
running light jumped out of my hand as I was hanging upside down, and
slowly swam into the dark water in Gig Harbor!  I think I lost the
screwdriver at the same time.
That lead to a brand new fixture. Problem solved!

Rick Rohwer
Paikea 37+
Now in Bremerton, WA

On Saturday, May 11, 2019, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I have a set of LED replacement bulbs for my forward running light.  But
> I’ll be damned if I can figure out how to access the socket.  Before I
> break something, any lister with the same fixture (89-94 34+ or 37+) have
> experience changing these out?
>
> thx
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
> On May 11, 2019, at 9:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Re:  Steering cable questions for Chuck (Chuck Gilchrest)
>   2. Re:  Steering cable questions for Chuck (Dennis C.)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 11 May 2019 07:26:51 -0400
> From: Chuck Gilchrest 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Steering cable questions for Chuck
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> There should always be sufficient tension in the steering cables that they
> are never ?slack? enough to allow the adjusting bolts to be loose.
> If the swaged Rod is so corroded that it can?t  be slid through the holes
> in the quadrant, or turned to adjust tension, simply cut them off and
> replace the chain/ cable assembly.  It?s time!  Once the cable is cut,
> you?ll be able to unscrew the rod using a vice grip or other such tool.
> But I can?t stress this enough:  don?t take cheap shortcuts regarding
> steering system components.  By performing regular maintenance on cable
> tension, inspection and lubrication using Edson guidelines, you can avoid
> scenarios like Dennis is experiencing.  In terms of priority maintenance, I
> rank steering right behind flotation (seacocks and through hulls).
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 35 Landfall
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
> On May 10, 2019, at 4:53 PM, DMcMillan via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> Maybe if the swaged threaded rod was not corroded in the hole, it is
> possible that there could be some movement of the rod when it is not under
> tension i.e. the wheel is turned in the opposite direction.   The movement
> in the hole could possibly damage the threads making adjustment difficult?
>
>
> BTW, what is a ?take up eye??  you mean an eye bolt?
>
>
> Dennis M
>
>
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via
> CnC-List
>
> Sent: May 10, 2019 11:25 AM
>
> To: CnClist 
>
> Cc: Dennis C. 
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Steering cable questions for Chuck
>
>
> Makes sense.  Thanks.
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
> On Fri, May 10, 2019 at 1:09 PM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I neglected to answer the second question:
>
> These days, take up eyes are simply easier to install in the system.  If
> you have swaged threaded rod on the end of the cables, it can be a bear to
> thread down through the idler and turning sheaves around and through  the
> holes on a quadrant or radial, whereas using take up eyes makes for a much
> easier threading of the steering cables through the sheaves and around the
> quadrant.  The take up eyes can be pre-installed on the radial or quadrant
> and much of the initial tension can be pre-tensioned with rope clamps,
> adjusting the final length of the steering cable.
>
> Also, a swaged rod can be subject to crevice corrosion where the cable end
> is installed into the threaded rod fitting, similar to a lifeline.  Hard to
> see the corrosion when it is covered.
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> S/V Half Magic
>
> 1983 35 Landfall
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via
> CnC-List
>
> Sent: Friday, May 10, 2019 1:48 PM
>
> To: CnClist 
>
> Cc: Dennis C. 
>
> Subject: Stus-List Steering cable questions for Chuck
>
>
> Chuck,
>
>
> Why does Edson not want a nut opposite the tensioning and lock nuts.  Just
> because it is redundant and serves no purpose?
>
>
> Is a tensioning stud bad?  Is an adjusting eye better?
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
> On Fri, May 10, 2019 at 10:17 AM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Per Edson?s instructions, both nuts go on the ?bitter end? of the cable.
> One is to 

Stus-List thanks for the info

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I printed it and will make sure it is on board.  Thanks for the information!

Rick
Paikea 37+
Bremerton, WA
> On Apr 19, 2019, at 8:31 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Everything you need, lubrication, cable tension, etc., is here:
> 
> https://edsonmarine.com/content/EB381SteeringGuide.pdf 
>  
> 
> Dennis C. 
> 
> On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 10:05 AM Allan Hester via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> CNC Listers,
> 
> That is excellent advice for adjusting the quadrant cables. Very appreciated. 
> 
> A followup question:
> 
> What are the guidlines for lubricating the Edson pedestal and cables?
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Al H.
> Pacific Ranger
> C 35 Mk3
> Vancouver, BC.
> 
> 
> From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] on behalf of 
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com  
> [cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com ]
> Sent: April 19, 2019 2:29 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 159, Issue 85
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com 
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Torque Multiplier to Borrow Locally

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Be really careful s you won’t recognize your strength with the multiplier! I 
have broken some stuff I didn’t think possible! Felt pretty stupid.
Rick
Paikea 37+
Bremerton, WA

Rick Rohwer 
509 306 1094



> On Mar 22, 2019, at 13:05, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> You can borrow mine for the cost of shipping to and from Lusby, MD 20657.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Fri, Mar 22, 2019, 11:50 AM Dan via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> So these Torque Multipliers are expensive. Does anyone on this list here in 
>> Nova Scotia have one I can borrow in May/June when I'm ready to do my keel 
>> bolts?
>> 
>> Thanks so much,
>> 
>> Dan Cormier
>> Breakaweigh
>> C
>> Halifax, NS
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Teak interior steps

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi Bev, we varnished our entryway steps and added some of the abrasive material 
that was suggested.  They are holding up well and not slick. You could pattern 
the abrasive section on your last coat and make it pretty custom.  We did 
discuss the adhesive backed abrasive products but went for the varnish.  I hate 
to slide all the way into the galley on my keister.


> On Feb 10, 2019, at 7:48 AM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Cleaning the teak steps up but how do I finish them? Should I varnish? Should 
> I oil? Should I leave them as they are?
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 37+ Prop Pitch for Universal 35

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I have the same prop but a Yanmar 35.  Deep keel.  Sounds very close to the 
same performance. I was looking to do the same tweaking on my next haul out.  
Looking forward to other opinions on the subject.

I do love the difference under sail though compared to the fixed prop that was 
on the boat since purchase.

Rick Rohwer
Paikea 37+
Bremerton, WA

> On Jan 20, 2019, at 9:15 AM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have a MaxProp classic, and a Universal 35 on Daydream.  The prop pitch 
> appears very shallow, and when motoring, seems to be slow. (from memory of 
> last September, 4.5 knots@ 2300rpms)
> 
> Any 37+ owners have this combination of prop and engine, and happen to know 
> the correct pitch for the MaxProp prop?
> 
> And cheers from the Michigan Fridge...-12 in the UP this morning!!
> 
> 
> Chuck Saur
> 
> (517)-490-5926
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I spent the night on Paikea last night in Bremerton! Pacific NW  A bit nippy, 
but it felt good to be aboard.  Watched Austin Powers-Gold Member and my 
favorite “Nacho Libre”.  No Christmas theme but some good guffaws!  Merry 
Christmas to all!

Rick
Paikea 37+

> On Dec 23, 2018, at 5:17 PM, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Merry Christmas to all y'all from the wet Pacific Northwest.  
> 
> 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy 
> Sv Rebecca Leah 
> LH39
> Port Orchard YC wa.
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Youtube of Santa Cruz tsunami 2013

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I thought this was an eye opener for anyone with a boat on the West Coast!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7O0B9rLaayg 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Water heater weirdness

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Mine behaves similarly.  You should be able to bleed the tank from that new 
valve. I will give it a shot as well.

I would guess you have a supply line laying on the hot water hose from the heat 
exchanger.  

Rick Rohwer
Paikea 37+
Tacoma, WA
> On Oct 22, 2018, at 11:21 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I'm baffled. Maybe someone here can figure this out. 
> A few weeks ago, I replaced the leaking overpressure/overtemperature valve on 
> our old Raritan water heater, and ever since, the pressure water pump acts 
> very oddly. It starts out sounding normal, then as the pressure builds it is 
> obviously working harder and slower, until finally it stops. When I open the 
> hot water tap, the water runs for quite a while before the pump kicks in, 
> whereas it used to come on almost instantaneously. In addition, when I open 
> the taps after motoring, the cold water tap is providing very hot water for 
> the first 10-15 seconds.
> Yesterday I tried running the system dry then refilling the tank but it 
> didn't seem to help. My best guess is that there is an air bubble in the tank 
> somehow and the pump is compressing the air, so it takes longer to reach 
> pressure and then the pressure bleeds off while the tap is open.
> Any bright ideas on how I might fix this? 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Af Cabin Mirror on a 37+

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

We just replaced ours over the sink mirror, but that doesn’t sound like what 
you are discussing.  Ours was mirrored plastic and we replaced with same from a 
nearby plastic fab shop.  They were also involved in jabbing main hatch and 
clear hatch board.  


> On Oct 19, 2018, at 10:22 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am facing a similar issue for the 3 mirrors in my head.  They have lost the 
> silver/reflective coating.  I can remove the doors and take them to a 
> glass/mirror shop, but the round teak finger holes should be removed before 
> taking off the glass.  They appear to be glued in place, and I don't want to 
> tear them up just to fix a minor cosmetic issue
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 33-2: PYI shaft seal

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I agree with Josh, my PYI  would be perfect if it could be changed without haul 
out!  I am trying to imagine the circus in the rear stateroom of my 37+ if you 
tried this change in the water! 
The failure rate of this PYI system seems to be nearly negligible, the pressure 
on the mating surfaces is so minimal!  I wonder if a temporary perfectly flat 
shim of carbon with ears (or other slippery material)could be quickly installed 
that would replace the pressure of the plates against each other…..
Failure of the bellows, or the set keys, may well eliminate mechanical 
propulsion if you are off shore. 
In shore you would need most of that bilge pump capacity you had invested in.
I haven’ seen the “Sailor Sam’s” but I will watch for it.
I am also a big fan of this company so I am not running down their products, 
but cognizant of limitations of the system.
Love the Max-Prop thus far.
Cheers
Rick Rohwer
Paikea 37+
Tacoma, WA

> On Oct 18, 2018, at 6:14 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have a Max-Prop, a R coupling isolator, R engine mounts, and I have a 
> PYI shaft seal - all the same company.  I generally like the engineering and 
> customer support and like the shaft seal fine.  That being said, I would 
> suggest taking a look at the Sailor Sam's shaft seal.  As the vendor 
> described to me at the boat show you can evidently replace the "packing" 
> (carbon rings) with it installed and in the water.  Some of the models do not 
> require the tension of a rubber bellows but rather have a physical metal 
> spring that maintains pressure.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Thu, Oct 18, 2018, 8:49 PM Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Any 33-2 owners with the PYI dripless shaft seal?
> 
> Will it fit?
> 
> We're looking at overhauling the packing gland and considering replacing it 
> altogether.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Adrian Humphreys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Update to "How long owned a C"

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

> I love good clean data!  Put it in the spreadsheet!

> Our first C, Paikea was purchased about 5 years ago in Anacortes, WA.  We 
> lived on her a couple years, and then moved indoors.  

We still love her and shower her with gifts!  She rewards us with magical days 
and nights.  She tortures us with her demands!  Damn if the windlass isn’t 
working again!

Like an arctic tern, she loves the wind!  A real sailboat, not a cruiser!___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Bay boat crash

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Looks like an Otto Pilot should be responsible!

> On Aug 20, 2018, at 6:58 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The fact that the headsail on the J/105 is rolled out implies that he was 
> sailing, thus he would have had right of way.
>  
> If the J/105 was motor sailing, the power boat was on his starboard bow, and 
> would have had right of way.
>  
> In either case Rule 2 says you need to do everything possible, including 
> violating the rules, to avoid a collision. So both skippers were at fault.
>  
> And if the dufus on the power boat was drinking, he can pretty much kiss his 
> merchant mariner credentials goodbye…. And good riddance.
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Russ & Melody via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2018 12:05 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Russ & Melody mailto:russ...@telus.net>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Bay boat crash
>  
> 
> Easy to see the sailboat is at fault eh.
> 
> Poor visibility and all white sailboat, the poor drunk powerboat coming in 
> fast on STBD didn't have a chance... 
> 
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> ex - Sweet 35 mk-1
> 
> At 07:59 AM 8/18/2018, you wrote:
> 
>> Holy crap!  Glad everyone’s ok.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Randy
>> 
>> 
>>> 
>>> https://www.delmarvanow.com/story/news/local/maryland/2018/08/17/chesapeake-bay-charter-sailboat-crash/1022589002/
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Josh Muckley 
>>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>>> 1989 C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3hmf

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I will try to get down to the boat before morning.  Sounds like the same rig.
> On Jun 19, 2018, at 3:42 PM, pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> This is a big ask, but my service manuals for the Yanmar 3HMF with Kanzaki 
> KBW10E transmission are on the boat, which is 4+ hrs away.  
>  
> I need to replace the dampening disk and am hoping someone on the list has 
> manuals and can send me torque specs and any other disassembly/assembly 
> instructions the manuals may provide.  I would like to be sure I have all the 
> needed tools when I next go up for the repair.  Any other ad hoc advice is 
> appreciated.
>  
> Thanks in advance.
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Source for LDP Water Tank Inspection Port Caps & O-Rings?

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Curious why you would care if the tank leaked at the top of the tank.  All of 
the water is of full use.  Fresh water in the bilge. 

I assume you aren’t taking water in from the fill points, so you are not 
sinking!

I have a similar (possibly the same) problem (and many others) so I wonder why 
this issue would be a priority!

Rick
37+ Paikea
Tacoma, WA


> On Feb 5, 2018, at 6:55 PM, William Walker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bruce,
>   I have similar looking caps, BUT I am 426 miles from the boat.  I took one 
> off and to a local RV dealer and got an exact match, about 5 years ago.
> Bill Walker
> 1981 Cnc 36
> Pentwater, Mi.
> 
> On Feb 5, 2018 9:47 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> Hello all,
> 
> I have a water tank inspection cap that is leaking when the tank is full, and 
> the DPO thought it a good idea to apply silicone sealer to all the o-rings on 
> all 5 caps>  He also applied silicone sealer to nearly every exterior nut, 
> bolt and screw, but that's another story.  Ugh...
> 
> Here's some links to a couple photos:
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/c7rcwh7wfwm9nne/Cap%20for%20LDP%20Water%20Tank%203.jpg?dl=0
>  
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/rj310g6xy9nozh1/Cap%20for%20LDP%20Water%20Tank%202.jpg?dl=0
>  
> 
> 
> Anyone know a source where I can find these caps and their o-rings?
> 
> Thank you!
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
> Madiera Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Enlarging existing hole in glass

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Great info guys!  Thanks

Rick Rohwer
Pike 37+ 
Tacoma, WA
> On Jan 19, 2018, at 6:21 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Yeah, forgot to mention that one.  That was my first plan.  Tried it.  It 
> didn't work for me either.  The new 2.75 inch hole saw I bought was a bit 
> taller than my 2.25 inch hole saw so the smaller saw didn't stick out above 
> the larger saw.  G.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> On Fri, Jan 19, 2018 at 8:02 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> Dennis — don’t forget the method of stacking hole saws of different sizes on 
> one mandrel.  If you have an existing 1-1/2” hole and need it to be 1-7/8”, 
> you can often slide the smaller hole saw into the larger one and put them on 
> the same mandrel; the smaller saw (original hole size) will often stand proud 
> of the larger hole saw enough to act as a guide to start the new cut.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Jan 19, 2018, at 7:52 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> Sometimes we're faced with enlarging an existing hole.  There are a couple 
>> of recognized ways to provide an "anchor" to center the pilot bit on a hole 
>> saw.  The most common way is to secure a piece of scrap wood over the hole 
>> (behind or in front) and then drill the new hole.  A second way is to cut a 
>> plug, place it in the hole and secure it with spray foam, etc.
>> 
>> Well, I had to enlarge a hole on Touche' and I thought neither of the above 
>> methods would work.  I dreamed up another method which I've never seen in my 
>> web research.  Here's a link to my write up.  Perhaps someone will find it 
>> useful someday.
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1I84iwQstTrzPcvQf2lNEWi8xeGDPcHaH 
>> 
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List pulling a prawn pot using a boom (not crab pot)

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

The prawns really fight, all the way to the top swimming hard!

Rick Rohwer 
509 306 1094



> On Jan 8, 2018, at 08:29, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Ooops.  Meant prawn pot :)  
> 
> The pots here for Dungeness crabs are at around 50-100ft and easy enough to 
> pull.  Spot prawns are 250 to 350ft and pulling it manually is back breaking 
> - hence this boom rig.
> 
> Lots of deep water here in Howe Sound and the Strait of Georgia > 1000ft.  
> 
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc: 
> Bcc: 
> Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2018 14:17:28 +
> Subject: Re: Stus-List pulling a crab pot using a boom
> +1
> 
> Crab pots here are in 4-20 feet of water usually. The deepest water I can 
> possibly find is 189 feet or so off the south end of Kent Island.
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2018 9:32 PM
> To: CnClist 
> Cc: Dennis C. 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List pulling a crab pot using a boom
> 
>  
> 
> Wow!  300 feet?  
> 
>  
> 
> In my area, when you see crab trap buoys, you're in LESS than 10 feet of 
> water.
> 
>  
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> 
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>  
> 
> On Sun, Jan 7, 2018 at 8:03 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Setup for pulling a prawn trap using a block on the boom to a jib car block 
> to winch. Makes it easier to pull form 300ft. https://flic.kr/p/ZZrceh
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Espar furnace repairs

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Nice video, thanks for sharing. 

Rick
37+  Paikea
Tacoma, WA

> On Nov 24, 2017, at 8:22 AM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> If anyone is interested in how to re-commission an old espar furnace back 
> into service, I posted a full DIY video on it this week with step by step 
> instructions. My furnace is circa 1989/1992 era and I was able to get it 
> going again after being dormant for 10-15 years mounted near the transom!! 
> It's been running flawlessly for 3 weeks now, very happy and warm on board.
> 
> Here is the video:
> https://youtu.be/H7EKuaQbU5g 
> 
> Dan Cormier
> S/V Breakaweigh (soon to be Balachandra)
> 1986 C
> Halifax, NS
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toilet lubrecation

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I like your system.  Makes sense to me!
Rick
Paikea 37+
Tacoma, WA

> On Sep 28, 2017, at 3:56 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I've tried tried "head lube", TefGel, wheel grease, couple other things.  
> Nothing works as well as Superlube.
> 
> So, primarily, I use Superlube.  Pop the top off the Jabsco pump assembly, 
> pull out the plunger, wipe some on the plunger o-ring and the shaft and 
> re-install.  
> 
> In between SuperLube applications, I use olive oil.  I keep a small bottle of 
> olive oil on the boat for cooking.  Each spring, I replace the bottle with a 
> new one.  What's left in the old bottle becomes interim head lube.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Thu, Sep 28, 2017 at 5:24 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> What are listers using to keep their toilets pumping freely?   The 
> manufacturer sells something, but suspect there is a generic cheaper 
> alternative.  I've used vegetable oil in the past, but that seems gum up the 
> pump.  A friend uses motor oil but I worry about it not being compatible with 
> the rubber parts.
> 
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland, Or
> 
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Keel bolt torque w/multiplier

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I used a multiplier on a transmission bolt and literally twisted it off the 
truck.  The torque it supplies is real, so treat it with respect. 
> On Sep 23, 2017, at 1:42 PM, ssjohnson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I was seeking a more efficient way to torque the keel bolts and found a 
> multiplier on Amazon for $60...I thought it might be worth a try.   It 
> multiies 59:1.  So, for 300 ft lbs that MIGHT men about 5 gr8 lbs.  I did 
> have to purchase some adapting sockets to match it's 1" drive,  but still 
> cheaper than renting or having the yard doit
> This multiplier kit was really intended for truck tires.  It does not have a 
> gauge. 
> So, am I full of beans???  Am I fooling myself that this is doing what I want 
> it to do?  I suppose I will know more when Alegria gets pulled in a few 
> weeks..
> Thoughts?
> 
> Torque Multiplier Heavy-Duty Lug Wrench Replaces 1" Air Impact - WARRANTY 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H99Y556/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BzSXzbRA2PF8T
> 
> Spencer johnson 
> '84 Landfall 38 #165  "Alegria "
> Racine,  wi
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 140, Issue 81

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Good info Tom! He is now in autodial!


Rick Rohwer 
Paikea 37+
Thea Foss



> On Sep 17, 2017, at 13:34, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Don
> 
> I used an excellent diesel mechanic in Sydney this summer.  He was 
> recommended by Stewart, at U.K. Sails and is the best diesel mechanic I have 
> used, ever.  Just wish he was closer.
> 
> His name is Ben Gartside, of Gartside Marine Engine.  250-655-4543
> gartsidemar...@shaw.ca
> 
> If I had what you have, I would consider flying him down to Seattle to check 
> I out.
> 
> GL
> 
> Tom B
> 
> Typoed from my iPhone
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> Alera 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> O 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
> Skype - thombusc
> 
> 
> 
> On Sep 17, 2017, at 9:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
 On Sep 16, 2017, at 23:14, DON JONSSON via CnC-List > wrote:
 
 Hi
 
 It seems I have a leaking head gasket on my Yanmar engine.  It is an old 
 engine but only has 2,000 hours on it.  I'm going to get some quotes on 
 fixing it but I'm sure it won't be cheap and not sure it won't be a waste 
 on an old engine.
 
 The boat is leaking a fair bit of oil which ends up in the bilge.  The 
 best guess when tracing the source is the gasket.  Of course the leak is 
 from an area that is very difficult to get a good look at.  The boat has 
 also suddenly taken to starting very poorly.  Anyway those are the 
 symptoms.  
 
 Has any one replaced a similar engine?  What with and how did it go?  Any 
 things to watch out for?
 
 Thanks
 Don
 Victoria, BC
 ___
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List GPS, Chart Plodders and Technology when there is none

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I have general charts aboard and tools to dead reckon with! I can see no reason 
to not have at least a handheld GPS aboard with batteries. If you can swing it 
though you should have a plotter!  Great peace of mind!
I think I would prefer having AIS to radar. I have the radar but no AIS 
currently!
A good friend said the added benefit of AIS is knowing how many folks (roughly) 
are in the anchorage before you pull in! 
I have read some very negative feedback on real time tests on radar reflectors?

Rick Rohwer 
Paikea 37+
Tacoma, WA



> On Sep 18, 2017, at 12:55, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I agree with Jack, as well; but the original post was sent by a person who 
> sails in the Vancouver Island area, which has far less shifting sand and far 
> more immovable rock…   :^)
> 
> Any electronic device is not a replacement for good seamanship and piloting — 
> but it can definitely be of great help when the wether goes bad or it’s dark 
> out.  You still have a responsibility for keeping proper lookout, and for 
> double-checking your position.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Sep 18, 2017, at 11:22 AM, David Kaseler via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Jack I agree with all you say.
>> Dave.
>> 1975 C 33
>> SLY
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Sep 18, 2017, at 8:33 AM, jackbrennan via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Of course, the caveat to all of this is that,  depending on where you sail, 
>>> even up-to-date charts can be anywhere from mildly off to wildly and 
>>> dangerously inaccurate.
>>> 
>>> In the Keys and South and West Florida, where sand shifts all of the time, 
>>> TowboatUS and Seatow do a fine business from boaters blindly following 
>>> their chartplotters. Many inlets and channels in West Florida have nasty, 
>>> uncharted sandbars.
>>> 
>>> After Irma, forget about it. Who knows what's where? You could go aground 
>>> on a sunken boat.
>>> 
>>> Depth sounders and the ability to read water are more valuable navigation 
>>> tools in places like this. I like paper charts because you get a bigger 
>>> view. A GPS is wonderful for confirming that you are where you think you 
>>> are. 
>>> 
>>> Still, I get the allure of all that gear. I crewed on a friend's catamaran 
>>> to Fantasy Fest in Key West last fall. His electronics were several times 
>>> more valuable than many of our boats.
>>> 
>>> I felt like I was on the con of the Starship Enterprise. Especially when we 
>>> hit warp speed (10+ knots). The only thing the electronics couldn't do was 
>>> spot crab pots at night. :)
>>> 
>>> Jack Brennan
>>> Former C 25
>>> Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
>>> Tierra Verde, Fl.
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

We have Espar (diesel) and Dickinson (LPG) aboard Paikea.  Recent work on the 
Espar reduced the number of heat vents to 3: aft stateroom, Head and under the 
chart table.  Too many heat vents pressure stressed the blower previously and 
“coked” the unit.  Really works well (blows hard) at this point and will drive 
you out of the boat with heat.  Most of the professionals I have spoken to feel 
the heaters should be used as hard as you can, as often as you can.  In other 
words, don’t buy more furnace than you need.  
The LPG unit works well as a “take the chill off the boat” and “wow look at the 
fireplace” appliance.  We installed an efficient 12V fan just above the stove 
to drive the heat as far as possible.  
I don’t hear a lot of people “loving” the hydronic systems unless you really 
step up and get a boiler.  

Rick
Pike 37+
Tacoma, WA
> On Aug 29, 2017, at 1:34 PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Crazy legs I have a Dickenson heater for sale at mbsc if you'd like to have a 
> look. 
> Message me for info
> higgs...@hotmail.com 
> Dave
> Zeilboot 
> 30-1
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Aug 29, 2017, at 12:03 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> 
>> For dry heat, Calder talks about a charcoal fired unit that is wall hung.  
>> Can't find the exact reference right now.
>> Ron
>> Wild Cheri
>> C 30-1
>> STL
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List > >
>> To: cnc-list > 
>> Cc: Ken Heaton >
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 8:37 AM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ heat
>> 
>> Hi Josh,
>> 
>> A/C ducts would have to be significantly larger in dia than the heater ducts 
>> need to be due to the smaller temperature differential for A/C so I don't 
>> know if this will help you much.  The output for my Espar is only about 3" 
>> in dia at the heater and quickly steps down in size as it branches off at 
>> the different outlets.
>> 
>> I have photos of some of the duct runs.  I'll take a look this evening.
>> 
>> Ken H.
>> 
>> On 29 August 2017 at 09:44, Josh Muckley via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> Ken, 
>> 
>> I'm looking to better distribute the A/C in my boat.  I'd like to see how 
>> your heat is ducted.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Overheating mystery

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I sucked a sardine into the raw water intake in Powell River.  I idled back to 
P R worked from the pump backwards, and there he was with a steely gaze halfway 
up the through hull.  If he would have extracted himself first I would still be 
looking for answers!
It does bring up a question that has been bugging me: if someone's exhaust is 
seriously steaming is it always an issue? and should I mention it to them? 
I know I would appreciate knowing, but some folks maybe not!  There are several 
commercial vessels leaving Anacortes that really have a cloud behind them!

Rick Rohwer 
Paikea 37+



> On Aug 15, 2017, at 17:43, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Buddy of mine had a similar issue.  Sucked a plastic bag against the intake.  
> When he turned the engine off and hoisted sails, it detached and floated off, 
>  He saw it.  Re-cranked the engine and it ran fine.
> 
> Dennis C.
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List PVC Handrails, 12" On Center

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I read somewhere on the forum that the holes mounting those rails are not a 
standard distance apart. I would have them reproduce from the original! My wife 
takes great pride in her varnish on those rails! I am a lucky man!
Rick
Paikea 37/40


Rick Rohwer 
509 306 1094



> On Aug 9, 2017, at 09:03, Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Second on stainless.  It's easier to get custom fitted than you might think.  
> Local shop took my old ones, used them to create a hole-Template on a length 
> of angle aluminum, then fabricated new ones on that.  Perfect fit.   
> Increased the stand off height as well.
> 
> Shoulda done it sooner.
> 
> Dave, 33-2
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Aug 9, 2017, at 11:27 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>> 
>> Many of us have gone with stainless steel handrails.  I had mine custom made 
>> by whitewatermarine.com they turned great.  If you remove the old ones first 
>> and send them with a cardboard template of each side you can better 
>> guarantee the results.  I don't think I have any pictures but will probably 
>> be able to get some a little later today.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley 
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Aug 9, 2017 11:06 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Hello all,
>>> 
>>> I'm looking for someone to correct me if I'm going down a bad path...
>>> 
>>> Our 1994 C 37/40+ has grayed out teak grab rails, 12' on center with 6 
>>> loops.  
>>> 
>>> We're in Florida, where sun likes to strip varnish away with ruthless 
>>> abandon, and the boat has a sleek, modern look on the outside anyway.  I am 
>>> thinking about doing away with the teak rails and going with either 
>>> stainless handrails or, I see that I can get white PVC rails from Hamilton 
>>> Marine for about $160 apiece.  
>>> 
>>> I'm kind of thinking it might be hard to have really sleek looking 
>>> stainless ones made which would easily mount through the existing holes in 
>>> the deck...
>>> 
>>> Anyone here have any experience with PVC handrails?  
>>> 
>>> Thanks for the insights,
>>>  
>>> Bruce Whitmore
>>> 
>>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Bow light

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I used the old wire to pull the new! It may have been dumb luck though! 
Sometimes even I get some dumb luck!
Rick
Paikea 37/40
Friday Harbor until 10:00 today and then off to Orcas.

Rick Rohwer 
509 306 1094



> On Aug 9, 2017, at 06:24, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> It is a PIA job!  I manged to feed the wire from the bottom and grab the end 
> of the wire with needle nose pliers at the exit hole.
> 
> Spray the wire with McLube.  It will feed easier.
> 
> Joel
> 
>> On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 8:53 AM, David via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> So I am trying to replace the bow light wire in the pulpit.   Tried to work 
>> the wire from both ends.   Nuthin.   Popped the pulpit leg where wire exits 
>> thru deck and it looks like a feeder tube thru the deck to lead the wire.   
>> It seems I need to remove the whole pulpit to feed a new wire.   
>> 
>> Am I missing something?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance.  
>> 
>> 1981 40-2.   
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Reminder: ONE MONTH AWAY -- C 2017 Northeast Rendezvous -- Sept. 8-10, 2017 -- Greenport, Long Island

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi Edd

Just returned from a 2 month trip into Canada on 37+ hull 53 but returning 1 
week too early for the C rendezvous in Telegraph Harbor on Thetis Island , 
BC. We will be in the neighborhood of your rendezvous on the 10th with a rental 
car and would love to check out your party.  If we can get there early enough 
we would love to stop by and say hello!

Until then,

Rick & Heidi Rohwer
PAIKEA


Rick Rohwer 
509 306 1094



> On Aug 7, 2017, at 13:54, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Now just a month away, on behalf of Rob Gallagher (C 30 Mk II; Hanuman), 
> David Risch (C 40; Corsair) and Don Sweeney (C 36; Harbor Lights), I 
> would like to invite you to attend our 2017 C Northeast Rendezvous; 
> September 8-10, 2017 in Greenport. 
> 
> Some of the highlights include pot luck group dinners, informal tours of 
> C, exploring Greenport, cigars, cocktails and more cocktails. Did I 
> mention drinks? 
> 
> We have dock space reserved at Mitchell Park Marina, located within a 
> four-acre park at the center of Greenport Village. A few steps away are 
> boutiques, shops, grocery stores, pubs, ice cream parlors, coffee bars, and 
> several highly-rated restaurants. You can even ferry (or dinghy) across the 
> river to beautiful Shelter Island — something for everyone! 
> 
> There are already seven C’s scheduled to attend — and there’s plenty of 
> room for more to join in on what’s shaping up to be our best Northeast 
> Rendezvous yet! 
> 
> And, seriously, when was the last time you had a rendezvous with its own 
> “Movie Trailer”? (Go full screen and crank the volume — trust me) — 
> https://youtu.be/M8yBSXuHPaQ 
> 
> Website with Online Registration: cncnortheast.com (please sign up there to 
> take advantage of our group rate and all the freebie goodies from our 
> sponsors.)
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Would a thousand hours in the Suburban  be 20 hours? How does that compare to 
your motoring time to Maine? I sail on the west coast so I don't have a clue 
how many hours of operation is involved from Newport to Maine.

Rick Rohwer 
509 306 1094



> On Jun 4, 2017, at 11:39, PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Question just motored from Newport ri  to Portland Maine and noted the oil 
> dip stick when I left was full and when I got back after motoring for 24 
> hours  was 1/2 way on the dip stick. 
> 
> On my big block chevy suburban I burn a quart of oil per 1000 miles. 
> 
> Is this normal
> 
> Also I get  a little white smoke when motoring. No temp issues stays at 180. 
> Oil pressure at 50-55
> 
> 
> Has anyone used a gasket sealer that works
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Peter
> 
> Goonie island 
> C 40 1983. Aft cabin 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Unique 3 way wire connector

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

bravo, nice idea!

On Thu, May 25, 2017 at 3:05 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Had a situation where I wanted to connect two wires twisted and soldered
> together with two smaller individual wires.  The individual wires could use
> a 14-16 connector but the twisted wires needed a 10-12 connector.
>
>  Aha!  I grabbed two 14-16 #10 ring connectors and a 10-12 #10 ring
> connector and riveted them together with a 3/16 inch 1/4 inch grip aluminum
> rivet.  Everything got smeared with TefGel since the rivet wasn't tinned
> marine grade.  Voila, a 3 way connector with two 14-16 connectors and one
> 10-12 connector.
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvseWVpb0h0WUVvVnc
>
> Yeah, I could have used a couple of 10-12 butt connectors and twisted
> wires together and folded wires over but that's not how we roll on
> Touche'.  Could have also used a piggy back quick disconnect.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Eberspacher D1L Heater

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi Eugene,
I had some folks local to Tacoma, WA  work on my Espar d3L unit in the
spring and they did a great job.  Parts are sometimes hard to acquire.
There are individual parts of the heaters that are prone to failure that
cannot be effectively fixed! and are critical to dependable performance.
I believe some parts are as expensive as a new heater.  At the time there
were fans available for this unit for   $750 on ebay.   I was prepared to
buy a new Webasto to replace my heater, and was up front about that with
this shop.  The tore it down and I got the thumbs up on my unit from
Breakwater Marine and they made it run nearly like new.  This required the
abandonment of 2 of the 4 heat ducts in the boat to reduce the load on the
heater blower and burn box.
I have found that there is a lot of voodoo in this heater business, and it
was refreshing to get some up front advice and then some follow through.
Do some research on what heaters (new) if installed in your boat would use
your existing ductwork, fuel feed, and exhaust (if you are satisfied with
those systems).  Most dealers will tell you your heater is a pile of
rubbish, and they probably aren't necessarily wrong.  Be prepared to spend
some money if you want it to work dependably, but know how far to go with
what you currently have knowing that anything you spend on the older system
is a one time fix and may fail again relatively early.
Sure Marine in Ballard, WA is also a great source of reliable information
and amazing parts.

Fair winds and a following sea!

Rick
Paikea 37+





On Tue, May 2, 2017 at 2:12 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have an Eberspacher D1L heater on my boat and found a manual online.
> Anyone have any experience repairing these and debugging tips? Would be
> nice to be able to run it at anchor.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gene
> "Hawk"
> C 29-2
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 37/40+ What does small switch on ceiling do?

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I believe I have said switch and it controls two neon lights under the
ceiling panels.  The panels are held in place with velcro.

Rick
Paikea 37+
Tacoma, WA

On Mon, May 1, 2017 at 7:11 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yep, I almost bought a windex light and then realized that the tricolor
> already lit it up great. The only thing to keep in mind is that if you
> decided to use the bow and stern lights for sailing, the tricolor has to be
> off and then you can't see the windex. Its rare when I find myself in this
> situation but it does happen.  Sometimes close to shore it is desired to
> make the nav lights more visible by using the ones closer to the water.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On May 1, 2017 9:57 AM, "Ron Ricci via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Fellow 37/40+ owners,
>>
>> I feel left out!  Patriot has no such switch.  I have a combo
>> steaming/foredeck light, Windex and anchor light on the mast.  All are
>> controlled by breakers on my DC panel.
>>
>> This year, I'm replacing my anchor light with a combination
>> tri-color/anchor
>> light and eliminating the Windex light.  The existing switch for the
>> Windex
>> will be used for the tri-color, expecting that the aft white portion of
>> the
>> tri-color will illuminate the Windex.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Ron
>>
>> Ron Ricci
>> S/V Patriot
>> C 37+
>> Bristol, RI
>> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce
>> Whitmore via CnC-List
>> Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2017 9:13 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Bruce Whitmore
>> Subject: Stus-List 37/40+ What does small switch on ceiling do?
>>
>> Hello all!
>>
>> I'm guessing Josh or one of you other brilliant folks with 37/40+ C
>> will
>> be able to guide me.  There is a small switch above the table near the
>> forward bulkhead.  I can't seem to figure out what it does.  Presumably it
>> is for an overhead light, but I don't see anything that isn't already
>> controlled by a switch, and the switch doesn't seem to do anything.
>>
>> Insights please?
>>
>> Kindest Regards,
>>
>> Bruce
>> 847.404.5092
>>
>> Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel Air Heaters (Webasto, Planar, Eberspaecher/Espar)

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi Joel
I was looking at a replacement for my Espar  last winter and was able to
find someone to rebuild/repair my existing system and "fix" some of the
problems inherent in the original installation. Too many ducts were
installed for the system and none forward of the rear stateroom received
adequate heat.  This overloaded the system and it was prone to "coking".
I did a lot of searching and although the Espar  heaters show up on ebay as
a "marine" heater, I think the legit installation folks will tell you it's
a push by the time you fully "marinize" the truck system.
I do agree that by using the existing ducting you will save many problems
and cost!  Don't be tempted to buy a system that calls for larger duct
system as they are designed to only push so much air.   Be brutally honest
about how you are going to use the system.
We lived aboard and used the Espar to warm the boat on cold mornings
assisting the dockside electric heaters.  Apparently you want these diesel
systems to work near their specified performance at all times.  They are
designed for that, but not to idle along keeping you massively comfortable.

The Espar air  and the Webastos are both very nice systems.
Sometimes the brand choice relies on the support you receive from the
distributor.
Mine (3DL) is a monster now with 2 of 4 ducts eliminated.
Hope that helps

Rick
Tacoma, WA
Paikea 37+



On Tue, Apr 25, 2017 at 5:43 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey all -
>
> Does anybody have experience with buying/installing/using a Diesel Air
> Heater (a-la Webasto, Eberspacher, Planar) in lieu of a
> propane/diesel/solid fuel fireplace-type heater?
>
> The Safari (1977 C 34) currently has an ancient forced-air kerosene
> vaporizing heater that has nearly caught itself on fire multiple times when
> guests (and less-informed owners) have neglected to read the impossibly
> complex startup and shutdown procedure. It’s also battleship grey, weirdly
> shaped, and mounted on a bulkhead out in the open. And it takes 25 minutes
> to give full heat.
>
> Originally we were thinking of replacing it with a propane or diesel
> fireplace type heater a-lal Dickenson or Sig, but somebody pointed me to
> Diesel Air Heaters like Webasto, Eberspaecher and Planar, and they seem
> like they could be a great fit. We have plenty of room to mount one in the
> engine compartment, we get near instant heat, we already have (some)
> ductwork run, and it would run off our existing diesel fuel supply.
>
> Presently I’m leaning towards the Eberspaecher/Espar Airtronic 12V (
> http://www.heatso.com/eberspacher-airtronic-d2-12v-2-2kw-heater-kit/
> )
> - it’s nearly half the price of the Webasto models. Planar seems like
> another lower cost option, but apparently it’s from Russia and that makes
> me nervous.
>
> Anybody used any of these? Why are Webastos $2700 and the Espars are $800?
>
> Andrew
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast solo

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I use the same ascenders with my own concoction of straps but unlike the
fellow in the “atninc" ad I prefer a bosun’s chair to a  climbing harness.
Plenty of pockets for tools and your vitals don’t go numb.  These allow you
to actually climb above the top of the mast so you can work readily on mast
top fittings.
Rick
Paikea37+

On Mar 16, 2017, at 8:12 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Ryan — many on the list prefer a standard climbing harness and ascenders
for this type of job.  I personally prefer to sit while working for long
periods of time, so I use the ATN TopClimber (now called the
“MastClimber”): http://www.atninc.com/atn-mastclimber-
sailing-equipment.shtml

I’ve had very good luck with this equipment; in a previous life as a marine
electronics installer, I spent a *LOT* of time up masts, and always felt
safe and comfortable.

YMMV…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 16, 2017, at 10:01 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
wrote:

Hi All,

I need to replace the radar dome on my mizzenmast this weekend.  It's about
22' up.  I'm in solid shape and can climb without a problem.  However, I
have never climbed a mast before, and I have to do this work alone.  I'm
curious if anyone here has suggestions for doing this safely.  Is it
possible, or should I call in a professional?

I'll be down on the eastern shore of the Chesapeake, so I'm sure I could
find someone, but I'd rather learn to do this myself and I'd rather spend
$$ on mast climbing equipment than on a pro.  I'm sure this won't be the
last time I have to do this.

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks so much.

Ryan
Juniper - 1983 Pearson 424 Ketch
(Former 1976 C 30)

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Automatic Bilge Pump? Recommendations?

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Mine is also a Rule (I think the capacity is around 650gpm) with electronic
switch, redundant with another of the same in the shallow sump under the
steps.  They are both automatic or on with switch at nav table.  Everything
ultimately drains into the deep sump on my boat as well using (just learned
vocabulary, thanks Josh) limber holes!
Cheers
Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA

On Wed, Mar 8, 2017 at 9:35 AM, tprice--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I use a Water Witch solid state switch to redundant Rule 2000 and 500.
>
>
>
> https://waterwitchinc.com/
>
>
>
> TP
>
>
>
> Timothy B. Price
>
> tpr...@ingamemedia.com
>
> 917.755.6145 <(917)%20755-6145>
>
>
>
> AIM: timbprice, Yahoo: timothyprice_98, SKYPE: Timothy B Price, Twitter:
> @NYC10075
>
>
>
>
>
> *From: *Bruce Whitmore 
> *Reply-To: *Bruce Whitmore 
> *Date: *Wednesday, March 8, 2017 at 9:56 AM
> *To: *C List 
> *Subject: *Stus-List Automatic Bilge Pump? Recommendations?
>
>
>
> Hello all,
>
>
>
> We have a deep, but small bilge just forward of the mast on our CYC
> 37/40+, and I need to replace the bilge pump.  It had a Rule 1100 GPH
> automatic pump (rather than one that has a separate float switch).  It
> seems like a pretty small area, and I would like to continue to use a pump
> with a relatively high output and a built-in float switch.
>
>
>
> I would prefer not to use the technology that turns on the pump to test
> for water, as there is very little water getting into this deep bilge, and
> I don't want to use power every few minutes for a test.  I am also
> concerned that the Rule pumps have been getting pretty poor reviews lately.
>
>
>
> Anyone have a recommendation?
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
> Bruce
>
> 1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"
>
> Madiera Beach, FL
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Mast Step Box 1980 CnC36

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I agree with Dwight, that you will save time, frustration and probably money 
with the mast off of the boat.  It sounds like a big deal, but it is usually a 
relatively cheap and simple maneuver and provides you a great opportunity to 
work on the mast, rigging, lighting etc. while out of the boat.  
I assume we are talking about a deck mounted mast with a compression post from 
the keel up to the deck.  Otherwise I don’t understand why it would be putting 
pressure down on the deck.
I haven’t owned or worked on a boat with a deck stepped mast for a really long 
time, but I would be nervous about the attempted jack up of the mast with the 
rig up and then having enough room to work where you need to .
With a keel based mast I have seen enough corrosion that it effected the box 
and the mast.  On my Ericsson 36C, I shaved 2-3” of the mast base and replaced 
the loss with brand new welded aluminum higher base.  Rigging all remained the 
same.  The mast rested snugly on a welded dome. The deck rigging pulled the 
mast down to the base.  Nothing really held the mast in the base but the 
downward pull of the deck rigging.   In the end it was aluminum against 
aluminum with no thru bolts.  
You will probably have the same decision to make regarding any corrosion to the 
mast bottom\compression post when you see the whole picture.  The base or the 
compression post would be the easiest and cheapest spot to correct for any 
loss.  You obviously have some loss somewhere and I would guess it is in the 
bilge.  Having the mast out lets you trim it as needed, clean it up and repaint 
it like new.  

Best of luck, 
Rick
“PAIKEA” 37+
Tacoma, WA

> On Jan 16, 2017, at 3:14 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Good luck Steve...I think it would be a much easier fix with the mast out
> Dwight Veinot
> C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Jan 9, 2017 at 1:17 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List
>  wrote:
>> 
>> Whatever is supporting the mast step on my 1980 C project boat has sunk 
>> by 1/2 to 1.0 inch, and the mast is pulling down on the cabin top. There is 
>> no visible sign of rot in the wood and fibreglass cross members at either 
>> end, and I am planning to attempt to put an aluminum plate shim underneath. 
>> The step box is constructed of anodized aluminum about a half an inch thick, 
>> and the bottom plate extends forward forming a shelf through which 2 bolts 
>> or lag screws hold it in place. There are no other visible mechanical 
>> fasteners.
>> Judging from all the talk over the years about mast steps, I am guessing 
>> that someone on the list has removed a similar box on a similar if not 
>> identical boat. What did you find? Were there other fasteners? Was the 
>> fibreglass holding it down? Any issues getting it loose? What is underneath 
>> that not obvious?
>> I am hoping to do this without unstepping the mast, but just jacking it up a 
>> bit.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Steve Thomas
>> C 36
>> Merritt Island, FL
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Possible Boom modification

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I wear a helmet for several different activities that I am involved in.  
Several other activities that generally use helmets I feel comfortable without 
it.  If I were worried about my head while sailing I think I might consider a 
helmet.  A climbing helmet would serve the purpose very well.  Give you a nice 
place to mount your Go Pr to get videos of you whipping and berating those 
short deck hands!  lol 
I am surprised that more racing boats don’t use them actually.  
> On Jan 1, 2017, at 8:55 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Why not just shorten the leach on the main sail by about 6 - 12" and have the 
> boom higher at the clew than at the tack.   That should clear all heads and 
> avoid remounting the goose neck fitting.   You could add a new clew cringle 
> or have the foot cut and original clew cringle moved up.   Should not cost 
> very much especially since it's loose footed.   Jerry
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> Cc: David Knecht 
> Sent: Sun, Jan 1, 2017 10:40 am
> Subject: Stus-List Possible Boom modification
> 
> Happy New Year to All!   I would like to get some advice on a modification I 
> am considering for my C 34+.  I love the boat, but one thing that has 
> concerned me from the beginning has been the boom height.  I am 6’3” and the 
> boom in normal sailing position is at head height.  If I were to be standing 
> in the cockpit (or even leaning forward at the helm) during an unexpected 
> jibe or tack, I would be in serious trouble.  We had someone killed during a 
> race in Fishers Island Sound last year in an incident of that sort.  So I am 
> considering moving the boom a foot higher.  It looks like a fairly simple 
> modification. I would have a new boom attachment fitting welded or bolted to 
> the mast, leaving the old one in place.  I would have the sailmaker add 
> cringles to create a new tack and clew attachment, leaving the old ones in 
> place.  Since the main is loose footed, the extra sailcloth would just sit on 
> the boom in the sail pack.  With those changes, it would be easy to reverse 
> the alterations in the future. I don’t think anything else would have to be 
> done.  The only problem I can see is that I would be the only one who can 
> reach the head of the main to attach the halyard, but I do that now so not a 
> big deal.  Thoughts?  Thanks- Dave
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi Jeremy, 

The water (coolant) inside the freshwater cooled engine is controlled by the 
thermostat.  Coolant is approx 50%  glycol to reduce the freeze point of the 
coolant (-25F or more).  When the engine hits the set temp (190F), the 
thermostat opens and allows coolant cooled by the heat exchanger to enter the 
engine.  No raw water should enter the engine block.  

Think of the heat exchanger as a radiator.  

The amount of raw  (salt or fresh) water is controlled by the speed and 
capacity of the raw pump, controlled by the rpm of the engine.  It is belt 
driven.  It also continues on past the heat exchange phase to be dumped in to 
the path of the hot exhaust, thereby protecting the muffler and exhaust system 
from melting.  

This system accomplishes the same thing as you are describing but changes the 
freeze protection plans.  For freeze protection, I think most folk feed glycol 
solution into the raw water pump until they see it exit the exhaust and then 
shut it down.  

My boat sits in 45-43F seawater virtually all year.  I don’t sweat the freeze 
cycle on the engine!  It would have to get really cold for a very long time.  

I would bet the 2QM20 is a mighty warrior of an engine.   I have the FEARSOME 
3HM35F!  

Happy sailing!


Rick
Paikea- 37+
Tacoma, WA

On Dec 13, 2016, at 8:50 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List  
wrote:
> 
> Yep, the mighty Yanmar 2qm20 is raw water cooled and the 1978 original. My 
> understanding is that the thermostat opens to route salt water through the 
> block when warm enough. 
> 
> Thanks,
> Jeremy 
>> Dec 13, 2016, at 7:38 PM, Rick Brass > > wrote:
>> 
>> Jeremy;
>>  
>> Someone has probably pointed out in a later post that – unless you have an 
>> older RAW WATER cooled engine – the water that passes through your sea 
>> strainer never sees the inside of your engine block.
>>  
>> If you have a fresh water cooled engine (most Yanmars have an F in the model 
>> number) the antifreeze you put in the strainer protects the strainer, the 
>> heat exchanger, and the muffler. The engine already has antifreeze in it, 
>> just like your car.
>>  
>> Rick Brass
>> Washington, NC
>>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Cockpit Locker Leak...

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

This has occurred on my 37+ in the  past.  The drain on the combing blocks, 
backs up, and floods into the locker,  I check it routinely and use an air pump 
to blow it clean. The lockers share the same drain line and in one case filled 
about half full of water before I caught it.  

Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA

> On Oct 16, 2016, at 4:15 PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Does anyone else get water in their cockpit locker?   I don't see how it can 
> get in there from the basic design.  It seems to be damp in there most times 
> and it makes no sense.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi Edd
We  have been running dehumidifier and some heat (living aboard) most of the 
winter so we are golden, but last winter was a different story.  Not much air 
movement on the 37+.  

I had some solar vents on past boats and they were great.  i am wondering if 
you could set up a low voltage fan in line but unattached to the bilge fan, and 
dedicate it to a small solar panel.  Run during sunlight and not at night.  I 
think the goal is to reduce the relative humidity to less than 50%?   If you 
are pulling vapor off when the temp is higher it will have more effect on the % 
when the temp is lowered.  I also don’t want to put holes in my hatches!

I might give it a try if I get some time, but I have a bunch of unsatisfied 
projects so it may wait for fall. Good luck and I really enjoyed your 
attachment as it reminded me of my wife!  Her rendition is probably a little 
more high pitched and directed straight at me.  She thinks I either control or 
understand all things, and then runs me through the wringer when I shrug and 
admit I am mortal!

Cheers
Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA

  
> On Jun 1, 2016, at 9:37 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> After launching the Enterprise last week, we undertook a several-day battle 
> of cleaning up mold and mildew that formed over the winter season. See: 
> https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-atTOVzKTiJ4/V070NXLN-NI/CbI/L4P1kYqh0DAJw5J-vDUC2nFRCCXe4OtHgCLcB/s1600/madkirk.jpg
>  
> 
>  
> 
> It’s time for one (or two) of those solar vent fans. The question I have for 
> the collective wisdom of the group is, if you have installed them, where do 
> you have them? How hard was it to install? I cringe at the idea of drilling a 
> 3-4 inch hole in the deck, but also am not crazy about reducing natural light 
> by putting one into a hatch. Any ideas and experience is welcome. 
> 
> … except for that guy who is not an engineer….. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi Edd
We  have been running dehumidifier and some heat (living aboard) most of the 
winter so we are golden, but last winter was a different story.  Not much air 
movement on the 37+.  

I had some solar vents on past boats and they were great.  i am wondering if 
you could set up a low voltage fan in line but unattached to the bilge fan, and 
dedicate it to a small solar panel.  Run during sunlight and not at night.  I 
think the goal is to reduce the relative humidity to less than 50%?   If you 
are pulling vapor off when the temp is higher it will have more effect on the % 
when the temp is lowered.  I also don’t want to put holes in my hatches!

I might give it a try if I get some time, but I have a bunch of unsatisfied 
projects so it may wait for fall. Good luck and I really enjoyed your 
attachment as it reminded me of my wife!  Her rendition is probably a little 
more high pitched and directed straight at me.  She thinks I either control or 
understand all things, and then runs me through the wringer when I shrug and 
admit I am mortal!

Cheers
Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA

  
> On Jun 1, 2016, at 9:37 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> After launching the Enterprise last week, we undertook a several-day battle 
> of cleaning up mold and mildew that formed over the winter season. See: 
> https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-atTOVzKTiJ4/V070NXLN-NI/CbI/L4P1kYqh0DAJw5J-vDUC2nFRCCXe4OtHgCLcB/s1600/madkirk.jpg
>  
> 
>  
> 
> It’s time for one (or two) of those solar vent fans. The question I have for 
> the collective wisdom of the group is, if you have installed them, where do 
> you have them? How hard was it to install? I cringe at the idea of drilling a 
> 3-4 inch hole in the deck, but also am not crazy about reducing natural light 
> by putting one into a hatch. Any ideas and experience is welcome. 
> 
> … except for that guy who is not an engineer….. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi Tom

Sorry to hear about your issue! I was going to suggest a look at the through 
hull as we had sucked a sardine into ours in desolation sound a while back, but 
in that case the flow of water was drastically changed.  Backing down on the 
engine to idle allowed for a return to port.  
I have had some problems in the past with other boats where the buildup of crud 
both in the heat exchanger and the exhaust elbow slowly choked the cooling 
system.  In combination with dirty bottom, headwinds, or tides it may have 
stretched to the capacity of what cooling you have.
Usually the major culprit for me was the elbow (as you are thinking).  I am 
overdue for a replacement as well so I have been watching them on ebay.  I have 
pulled one on a previous vessel that literally fell apart as I was wrenching on 
it.
I do question whether stainless steel will hold up better in this application. 
Heat, oxygen, and chlorides are real problems with stainless steel.  Any 
opinions on replacement with stainless over cast iron for this area? Titanium 
would be awesome!
It sounds like you are similar as well in that when we go south the wind is in 
our face, and on the return, yep, in the face again.  We hope to do a south 
sound swing in June as well!
Fair seas,

Rick

Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA 
> On May 29, 2016, at 9:03 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> We are on our first extended cruise of the year for a club event in Olympia 
> WA and are hiving a problem with overheating with our 3HM35 Yanmar.  Here's 
> the deal...
> 
> We usually run as about 26-2800 RPM.  Depending on the condition of the 
> bottom and the prop, that gives us between 6.5-7.3 KTS.  We have had some 
> intermittent issues with overheating, but it was usually me pushing too hard 
> in heavy seas or running above the usual RPM range.  Backing off always 
> relieved the problem.  And we have no gauge, so this is all based on the 
> alarm which may or may not be accurate.
> 
> As we were heading out this time the Admiral was at the helm and I was below 
> messing with something and the alarm went off as we were running at about 
> 2200 RPM.  We were able to run at under 2000, but above that the alarm 
> sounded and we had to back down. We continued on at 4.5 KTS.
> 
> I checked the strainer and through hull.  All good there.  Water seems to be 
> exiting the exhaust as usual. I am planning on a haul out and bottom job next 
> month, and did not have a diver clean the bottom and prop (should have done 
> that for sure).  My assumption was that the barnacles on the prop and dirty 
> bottom, along with the 15-20 KT head wind were taxing the engine and causing 
> the overheating.  But the "experts" in my club feel otherwise.
> 
> I tried to get at the gooseneck to see if that might be the problem.  I was 
> able to get the water hose off and poke around in there with a wire, but 
> decided that pulling the exhaust hose was not something to try 30 miles from 
> home as if I screwed it up and damages the exhaust hose I could be stuck here 
> for  a while.  
> 
> I have heard all of the problem YANMAR's have with exhaust back up and am 
> wondering if that may actually be the problem.  I have asked to have it 
> checked every tine I get the engine serviced, but there's no telling what 
> that entailed or even if it was doneso, when she goes into the yard for 
> the pain job I think replacing the gooseneck with the stainless aftermarket 
> one may be in order. 
> 
> Here are my questions:
> 
> 1.  Can the dirty bottom and barnacle encrusted prop- result in an 
> overheating problem?
> 
> 2.  Would a carboned up gooseneck cause a problem like the one I am 
> experiencing?
> 
> 3.  Where can I get one of those nifty aftermarket stainless goosenecks?
> 
> Any additional suggestions are welcome and appreciated!
> 
> thx
> 
> Tom B
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com  
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Horizon Instrument Covers and Bow Anchor Roller for 29 mk II

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi Gene,

A well working bilge pump is always a good thing!  I have a leak on the fill 
for one of my fresh water tanks. It doesn’t limit the amount of water I have on 
board, just leaks when the water level is above the tank level.  I am not in a 
hurry to find it as my bilge pumps all work fine as well.  I prefer a good 
fresh water rinse of the bilge on occasion!  Regularly is fine as well.

I have owned some boats that I couldn’t hear the bilge pump activate.  I feel 
it is reassuring to hear it on a regular occasion as long as I know why.

I seem to remember seeing the square covers on Fisheriessupply.com

Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA


> On May 23, 2016, at 4:45 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Any good source for instrument covers that fit the classic square depth gauge 
> and knot meter? Or any ideas for good substitute covers?
> 
> Second question, I'm thinking about putting a anchor mount/roller on and am 
> wondering if anyone else has done it on a 29 mk II and what mount they 
> used/works best.
> 
> FYI, I finished my automatic bilge pump and it works like a champ, now I just 
> need to find where the fresh water tank is leaking from (pump keeps running 
> when on).
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Gene Fodor
> Hawk
> 29 C Mark II
> Washburn, WI
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List C Letters for 37+ exterior

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I lost the recent message regarding replacement letters water jetted from 
smoked plastic.  I am missing “C” and “&”  Can someone forward that info to me 
again?  Much appreciated.

Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Scanmar Emergency Rudder MRUD

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I am not sure what you have Adam.  That might mean I don’t need it, but it 
makes me curious that I am missing out on something!  Cheers
Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA

> On Apr 27, 2016, at 5:07 PM, Adam Trackracer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello, I own a 1973 C BlackWatch in Seattle and I have a scanmar m-rud I 
> want to get rid of, it would be really cool if another c owner or similar 
> design could use this.  It has never been used other than a few testing days, 
> brand new in 2006 and every part is included except the brackets attached to 
> the transom.  Let me know if you have questions, I'll sell this for very 
> cheap compared to a new set up.
> 
> Thanks 
> Adam
> 253 332 8175
> 
>> On Apr 27, 2016, at 9:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> 
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>>   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>   http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>   cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>   cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>> 
>> 
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>  1. Re:  Jib sheet size (svpegasu...@gmail.com)
>>  2. Re:  Bow Roller (Allan Rheaume)
>>  3. Re:  Depth transducer throughhull leak
>> (mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net)
>>  4. Re:  Depth transducer throughhull leak (Joel Aronson)
>>  5. Re:  Depth transducer throughhull leak (Peter Fell)
>>  6.   Sliding hatch details (Bradley Lumgair)
>>  7.  C 34 Packing Size (Chris Duer)
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2016 18:45:07 -0700 (PDT)
>> From: svpegasu...@gmail.com 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Jib sheet size
>> Message-ID: <000f4242.2a58593375d9a...@gmail.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>   Daniel, you are right the 5/8 jid sheets are overkill. But easy to get a 
>> good hand on. When I replace my 5/8 sheets I am thinking that I will 
>> probably go with the 9/16. A little thinner but still easy on the hands. 
>> Although with the fancy lines out there you can find 1/2 in line that is 
>> stronger that the 5/8. IMHO it will depend on if you race or worry about 
>> spilling your beer on a tack.?
>>   Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- Original message--From: Daniel Sheer via CnC-List Date: Mon, Apr 
>> 25, 2016 09:19To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Daniel Sheer;Subject:Stus-List 
>> Jib sheet size
>> I've got 5/8 sheets on a 145% jib on my Landfall 38. It's overkill. Killing 
>> a flea with a shotgun, almost. Question - will 9/16 do, or do I need 1/2? 
>> And how long?
>> Thanks,
>> Dan SheerPegathy - Landfall 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2016 09:42:23 + (UTC)
>> From: Allan Rheaume 
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow Roller
>> Message-ID:
>>   <1063000799.2457439.1461750143647.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> I'm still here Lorne ,I've been lurking more than contributing over the last 
>> few years. My email is all...@kos.net.
>> Allan RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 # 90
>> 
>> 
>> From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: Lorne Serpa 
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2016 9:28 PM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow Roller
>> 
>> Thanks, I'll start chasing him down.
>> 
>> On Tue, Apr 26, 2016 at 6:26 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> The right guy is Allan Rheaume. He was active on the list few years ago and 
>> is very knowledgable about the 30 mk II. He was in the Lake Ontario area in 
>> 2010. He answered a lot of my questions when I was looking for a boat at the 
>> time.
>> You should be able to find him easily.
>> Bruno LachanceBecassine, 33 mkIINew Richmond, Qc.
>> 
>> Envoy? de mon iPad
>> Le 26 avr. 2016 ? 19:16, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  a 
>> ?crit?:
>> 
>> 
>> Lorne:
>> 
>> I'm not that Allan, but I can send you pictures of the bow roller I added to 
>> my boat.? Send me your email address.? trya...@alumni.usc.edu
>> 
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>> 
>> On Tue, Apr 26, 2016 at 4:04 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I found an article in the resource 

Re: Stus-List Icebox pump

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Mine siphons to the first sump near the engine and goes to the bilge. Ice box 
water can get a tad nasty.  Tastes nasty anyway as I still suck (pun) with no 
talent!

Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA

> On Apr 27, 2016, at 5:57 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Mine doesn't work either but since I have a refrigeration unit I don't have 
> too much need for one.  Its not hard to pull up the sole to expose the pump.  
> There is a good chance that if mine ever worked then it stopped working 
> because of freezing temperatures and not being winterized.  It is easily 
> forgotten.  Mine used to pump to the sink through some faucet like pipes.  
> Now it just goes to the bilge.  In fact I think I may have just removed the 
> pump from the hose system so that it will gravity drain.  I guess the idea of 
> pumping out to the sink is that you could wash your hands or dishes with that 
> water.  Sounds kinda gross to me.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Apr 27, 2016 8:05 PM, "Alan Liles via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> Hi all. I was just at the boat cleaning up and I tried the icebox pump by 
> switching it on at the breaker panel. Nothing. I tried to get a look at it 
> but it seems I'd have to take up the galley sole to see the bottom of the 
> icebox so I thought I'd research it a bit before I started disassembling.
> My first question is whether the pump should start when the breaker is 
> switched on. Secondly, is the pump located at the bottom of the box or should 
> I look elsewhere? Also, where do you suppose it discharges?
> 
> Cheers, Al
> SV Elendil
> C 37+
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Rudder replacement/repair

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Thanks for sharing the pictures Joh!  Very interesting.

Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA

> On Apr 18, 2016, at 9:17 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My rebuild was ~$5k.  Seeing what the professionals do was definitely an 
> education.  Not hard, just a lot of work.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA 
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Apr 18, 2016 10:11 PM, "Eugene Fodor via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> Trying to get an idea of the cost for rudder replacement or repair.  The boat 
> I'm close to purchasing has some brown drainage from the rudder after 
> drilling the bottom which tells me there is some corrosion in the steel 
> webbing. I'm handy unsure if this is better left to a marina shop or not 
> salvageable long term. Thoughts?
> 
> Gene
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List LED Nav Lights

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

When under power you are no longer a sailing vessel.  White Light showing 225 
over port and starboard running lights.  Just one more tug boat.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 4, 2016, at 19:26, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I don’t recall any requirement in the COLREGS that a “Masthead” light 
> actually be at the top of a mast. And since the “Masthead light” identifies 
> that the boat being observed is a power driven vessel, I would be kind of 
> surprised if there was such a requirement.
>  
> Sailing Vessels display only red and green bow lights and a 135 degree white 
> stern light (or, in the alternative a red, green and white tricolor light at 
> the top of the tallest mast).
>  
> I suppose that’s why sailors like you and I think of the white light on the 
> front of the mast as a Steaming Light. We only turn it on when we are 
> “steaming” and our sailboat becomes a tall power boat.
>  
> The number and positions of the “masthead lights” on a power driven vessel 
> are spelled out in the COLREGS and will indicate the length of the boat (and 
> fore from aft). I do think they need to be the highest lights on display, but 
> I’ve seen masthead lights affixed to a bracket on the top of the wheelhouse 
> on a trawler, and to the strut holding the radar antenna on a tug, and those 
> don’t count as a masts in my book.
> Rick Brass
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill 
> Coleman via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2016 10:18 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bill Coleman 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List LED Nav Lights
>  
> As they call this a masthead light, does this mean it is supposed to be at 
> the very top of the mast? Mine is just above the baby stay, and is caused 
> chafing on my Genoa. I have never seen a steaming /Deck light anywhere other 
> than half way up the mast, does anyone have any feeling on this? BTW, the 
> reason it is above the baby stay, is because I put track on the mast front 
> for storing the Spinnaker Pole.
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Keel bolt tightening for wimps?

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Ryan
I have had some painful experience with a torque multiplier!  
Whether tightening or loosening, you should be wary of how much force you are 
applying to the fastener.   Fasteners or sockets can fragment.
I would recommend either some pretreatment with penetrating oil, and or 
heating/cooling.   Ease into it once you use the multiplier!
I broke off some very expensive bolts using a multiplier.  

Rick
Paikea 37+
> On Mar 22, 2016, at 1:08 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Or you will need at least a 4 foot extension on the ratchet just connect that 
> up apply your half your body weight to the pull and u should be good to go 
> but you may only have enough space to get 1 click on the ratchet each pull 
> like was my case on alianna
> 
> On Tuesday, March 22, 2016, Dennis C. via CnC-List  > wrote:
> Call tool rental shops and see if you can rent a torque multiplier.  Also 
> remember that you must first loosen the nut then torque it.
> 
> Dennis C.
> On Mar 22, 2016 8:29 AM, "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> Tried to tighten my keel bolts to spec today.  Can't get any of them to 
> move... at all.  Can't tighten, can't loosen.  I wouldn't call myself a super 
> strong guy, but I'm 6', 175lbs. and I've certainly loosened a few bolts in my 
> lifetime.   These won't budge.  Should I just leave them alone?  Or should I 
> buy a longer torque wrench or some sort of extension to get some more 
> leverage?  Currently using a wrench about 20" long.  It's also hard to brace 
> yourself for good leverage on the boat.  The specs say 350 ft lbs for my 
> boat.  That sounds like maybe more force than I can exert?
> 
> Any thoughts are appreciated.
> 
> Ryan
> 1976 C 30
> Nobody's Bargain
> New York
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 122, Issue 42

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Thanks for the idea.  I may go even larger on the inspection hatch.

Rick
Paikea 37+
> On Mar 16, 2016, at 5:13 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> La Neige, a 37/40 XL has an access cover in the head. It is one of those 
> hinged plastic rectangular shaped hatches. Highly recommend at least this, as 
> I couldn't have accessed the mounts to replace them. Also allows access to 
> raw water pump and starter (still have to remove starter to get the pump out 
> though.)
> I' will post pics next time I get aboard (maybe tomorrow). It was installed 
> by previous owner. I would recommend larger if you can find one.
> Mine looks like this one, but black:
> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/bomar--inspection-hatch-7-x-11-black--226873 
> 
>  I'll get the dimensions  with the pics.
>  
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2016 14:43:44 -0400
> From: Edd Schillay >
> To: C List >
> Subject: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access
> Message-ID:  >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> To the Listers with 37+?s, R?s, or XL?s,
> 
> I had an idea to add a hatch in the head to provide access to the other side 
> of the engine (starter, alternator wires, etc.)  Have any of you done this? 
> If so, could you send photos?
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  >
> 
> -- 
> Brian Fry
> S/V La Neige
> 1993 C 37/40XL
> HdG Maryland
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Al,
.75 gph sounds about right to me as well. Some safety built into that number.  
3HM35F with 3 blade prop @2200rpm C 37+.  

Rick
Paikea
Poulsbo, WA
 
> On Feb 16, 2016, at 7:50 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I would use 3/4 gal/hour as a safe number. My 3gm uses 0.6 to push my 40 
> around at about 21-2200 RPM.
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine 
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
>> On Feb 16, 2016, at 22:37, Alan Liles via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Does anyone have a round number for fuel usage in a 37+? Mine has a Yanmar  
>> 3JH2E with a three blade Maxprop, pitch unknown. I need to move the boat to 
>> its new home and I have no idea how much fuel it will use. I don't want to 
>> just fill it up as I'm planning on some tank cleaning in the near future. An 
>> approximation will do as I will then add a safety factor. 
>> 
>> Al Liles
>> SV Elendil
>> C 37+
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Mine pulls 12amps until the glow plug goes off.
Rick. Paikea 37+

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 6, 2016, at 13:17, William Walker via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Graham,
>Your thoughts would appreciated on start up draw.  Prior owner installed 
> in port Lazarette.  He is particular guy, all looks well done, but he told me 
> about current draw and starting engine to get it going.  After its running 
> seems to do fine off twin house batteries.  
> Bill Walker 
> CnC  36
> Pentwater, Mi
> 
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> 
> 
> 
> On Saturday, February 6, 2016 Graham Collins via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The Espar has an air intake hose, so provided the end of the hose is clear of 
> any fumes you are good to go.  You could connect that through 'to the main 
> cabin if you wanted for enhanced piece of mind.  If you have flammable vapor 
> in your main cabin then all bets are off...
> 
> And these things are pretty miserly, I might go through a gallon or two while 
> working on the boat in the winter.  So a tiny fuel tank would be adequate.
> 
> I'm surprised at Bill's comment about startup draw, I run mine off batteries 
> all the time and have never had an issue.
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
> On 2016-02-06 1:45 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
> I'm reading the marine installation manual and have some questions:
> 
> - Under safety it reads: "The position of the combustion air must not allow   
> exhaust fumes or flammable vapour to be drawn in". I have a gasoline 
> tank in my engine compartment. Does this preclude me from installing one of 
> these?
> 
> - Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank? I'de like something small that I 
> can top off from a jerry can, so I can secure it into place in the lazarette. 
> 5 gallons maybe? What are others using if using a separate tank?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
>> Hi Russ,
>> 
>> I figure with the newport, the tank is inside the cabin (somewhere behind 
>> the bulkhead I would imagine, hanging locker on my boat likely). With the 
>> espar/webasto, it's in the engine compartment. Also with the newport, this 
>> is pretty much how i have to mount it:
>> http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg
>> 
>> Starboard I have a dinette and of course the mast. Port side isn't optimal 
>> either. Now that I'm thinking about the tank actually, and the venting, I'm 
>> not really sure where I'de locate a tank for the newport. 
>> 
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C 32
>> Toronto
>> 
>> 
>> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi Steve,
>>> 
>>> I should have listed install location in the 
>>> "Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.
>>> 
>>> The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead unit. The D2 has a huge 
>>> advantage on heat output on low settings, not to be overlooked. The Admiral 
>>> & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.
>>> 
>>> Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank location with proper venting 
>>> is the same for both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The tank can 
>>> be almost anywhere for either unit and if elevation is such that gravity 
>>> feed is not going to work for the bulkhead heater then you get a little 
>>> impulse pump similar to what the Espar uses. I would see about putting the 
>>> tank in the cockpit combing area, that's high 
>>> enough and easy to fit a deck fill to keep everything outside. Either 
>>> heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon tank since you're looking at up to 1 
>>> gallon a day use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2. 
>>> 
>>> On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for retirement cruising I will have 
>>> both types of heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)
>>> 
>>> Cheers, Russ
>>> Sweet 35 mk-1
>>> Vancouver Island
>>> 
>>> 
>>> At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:
>>> Thanks for the helpful replies, all.
>>> 
>>> Russ, I really love the idea of the newport heaters, to be honest, I like 
>>> the idea of solid fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my favourite 
>>> things. But the only units worth getting are expensive wood stove types, 
>>> which are super nice, but I can't justify the expense and they have 
>>> drawbacks on a boat. The espar is appealing because it's out of the way. 
>>> The problem for me with the diesel newport is the fuel. I have an A4 
>>> powered boat and one thing I really like about my boat is that it doesn't 
>>> smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater would necessitate a gravity 
>>> tank somewhere inside and I'm not sure where I'de have space, maybe in the 
>>> hanging locker. I'm concerned about the diesel smell. Most of what I've 
>>> read about them is 

Re: Stus-List ab inflatables

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

We  have been happy with our 9ft AB-hypalon tender thus far.  i felt the 
aluminum hull would be the least likely to be damaged in beach landing and 
wouldn’t show the scratching from rocks and debris while tied to the beach. 
Nearly any shop or amateur welder can fix aluminum, some prettier than others.  
i would say the floor stays very cool in the water.  Ours is naked aluminum, 
and will stay that way.  We power it with a 5 hp merc 2-stroke.  Planes with 
one aboard, but not 2.  it is a long shaft though so might do better with a 
short shaft engine. 
We carry it on davits.  

Cheers
Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA

> On Feb 4, 2016, at 9:09 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> There was some discussion I recall recently on cruiser's forum about a recent 
> (and maybe temporary) deterioration in AB quality while their plant was 
> moving between Venezuela and Columbia.
> 
> There were also discussions about the aluminum floor being very hot on bare 
> feet and paint peeling off the aluminum floor.
> 
> I recently considered the AB but decided on an Apex Lite with fiberglass 
> floor. (They are made in Costa Rica and sold by Fawcetts in Annapolis.)
> 
> The other consideration for me was that I can repair fiberglass--I can't weld 
> aluminum.
> 
> Bob
> 
> Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer
> 
> On Feb 4, 2016, at 9:18 AM, Jason Ward via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
>> 
>> Hello all,
>>  
>> I am looking for peoples experience with AB inflatables.  I am looking at 
>> purchasing a new tender for my C Landfall and I came across this brand in 
>> my search.  I currently own a 1978 Zodiac that has been a great tender for 
>> the past 35 years.  However, everything ages and it is time to move on to a 
>> new boat.  I am looking for something that is going to be durable, stable, 
>> and tows and handle well.  My current Zodiac is a soft bottom with a wood 
>> floor, but I want to change to a v-shaped aluminum bottom.  I am also 
>> wanting to stay with Hypalon material as I am planning to use this on a 
>> future Atlantic circumnavigation. The AB Lamina UL10 brand seems to be a 
>> good replacement, however, I don't know anyone who owns one.  Any reviews 
>> that people can contribute or alternative makes would be appreciated. 
>>  
>> Regards,
>> Jason Ward
>> S/V Starship
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
>> 
>> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Stainless steel name plates (46088)

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Ken, Count me in for a set of each side on a group order if that can be 
established.  Let me know when and how to pay for same. Thx

Rick
Paikea37+
cell: (509)3061094
rickroh...@gmail.com
Ship to: PO Box 892,Gig Harbor, WA  98335


> On Jan 12, 2016, at 12:13 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello Everybody,
> 
> While we are on the subject of C 37+ nameplates for sale, I have another 
> option to put foreward.
> 
> As some of you already know, my boat has custom made stainless steel name 
> plates on each side of my cabin top.
> 
> A few photos of them have been circulated in the past.  Here is a link to one 
> of those photos:
> 
> https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/gh_Za0epuiPkRaZG8fo1NJPE0LDMN2ciJXnWeEGp-rNpYrfVT6JnE_285WjjvuqE_AW-tQ=w1896-h791
>  
> 
> 
> ...and in context:
> 
> https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/hWpYcECinHHDMdWwInzVRGSJhWrC0uqlrxElnqjjJWAQZ5gtjFCJUWEJmMCBAK2CnQIuFw=w1896-h791
>  
> 
> 
> The plates are made of 11 gauge (1/8") stainless,the letters and symbols 
> recessed and then infill painted.
> 
> Because of the ongoing discussion of name plates I removed mine from the boat 
> last week and took them to a local business (Protocase) that makes this sort 
> of thing and specializes in one offs and small quantities and regularly ships 
> all over North America (and Europe).
> 
> Protocase tells me they can easily reproduce these plates exactly the same as 
> mine or any variation of that layout for the prices listed below, in Canadian 
> dollars. Remember, the Canadian dollar is in the toilet right now so the US 
> members on the list will pay considerably less in US dollars.  As of a few 
> minutes ago (according to Google) 1 Canadian Dollar equals 0.70 US Dollar.
> 
> These prices DO NOT include the infill paint, this shop isn't set up to do 
> that yet (they hope to be able to offer this service very soon, perhaps as 
> soon as next week).  These guys (and girls) are into customer satisfaction.
> 
> 46088-1 NAME PLATE (C 37+) REV(-) Quantity 1 Lead Time: 2-3 business days. 
> Shipping is also included in these prices, not extra (FedEx- 2 business days).
> 
> Quantity  Product Unit Price 
> 1NAME PLATE (C 37+) REV(-)$130.98
> 1Setup Fee   $70.00
> 1Design Services Fee $40.00
> 
> A second, identical plate would not incur an additional $70.00 Setup Fee or 
> the $40.00 Design Services Fee AND the Unit Price would also drop some.
> 
> By the time you are ordering 10 or more IDENTICAL plates the unit price drops 
> to $53.00 each plus only one charge of the Setup Fee and the Design Services 
> Fee for the entire order.  So a group order, allowing them to make plates in 
> batches, makes sense for everybody.
> 
> Variations on the plate's layout (say, to have the sword pointing toward the 
> bow on each side of the boat) or lettering changes (to have C 37/40+ or C 
> 37 XL or whatever) will incur some variation of the $70.00 Setup Fee (the 
> simpler the change the lower the set up fee) but probably will be exempt from 
> the $40.00 Design Fee for each variation on the theme.
> 
> They did provide a quote on a pdf but Stu's List doesn't allow attachments.  
> Or if I could attach it, I didn't want to eat up his bandwidth, so I didn't 
> try.
> 
> This is the company's website (if you'r curious): http://www.protocase.com/ 
> 
> 
> Other quote and contact info below:
> 
> Quotation - Shipping Included
> Quote Number: 46088
> Date: 2016-01-11
> Sales Person: Shirley Evely
> Valid Until: 2016-01-21
> Phone: 1-866-849-3911 
> Email: sev...@protocase.com 
> Website: www.protocase.com 
> 
> IF A GROUP ORDER CAN BE ASSEMBLED THEY WILL DISCOUNT ALL FEES AND UNIT PRICES 
> SO IF WE CAN ORGANIZE THAT THROUGH STU'S LIST IN ADVANCE OF PLACING AN ORDER 
> THE PRICES WILL COME DOWN.  THIS INCLUDES VARIATIONS ON THE LAYOUTS, 
> LETTERING AND DESIGN.
> 
> I hope this is reasonably clear, Any questions, fire away.
> 
> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
> 
> 
> 
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Shirley Evely >
> Date: 11 January 2016 at 12:11
> Subject: RE: Stainless steel name plates (46088)
> To: kenhea...@gmail.com 
> 
> 
> Hello Ken and welcome back to a new week,
> 
>  
> 
> Sounds great. Please see the quote attached. I have a couple of different 
> qty.’s included, but please let me know if you are looking for different 
> volumes. 

Re: Stus-List C 37+ nameplates for sale

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Interested

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 11, 2016, at 14:47, Gary Russell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Well, I've got what I consider a reasonable quote for the nameplates.  I can 
> supply them in black UV resistant polycarbonate for $75 each side plus 
> shipping..  That includes everything including the NRE (non-recurring 
> engineering charges).  The NRE is basically CAM charges).  I need to know who 
> is interested.  I suspect I can  have them in about a week.  If there are 
> similar nameplates for other C models, I can entertain getting them as 
> well.  I don't know if I can get them in stainless steel, but if possible it 
> will be quite a bit more expensive because of the small radii of some of the 
> cuts.  A 1/16" cutter moves very slow in stainless
> So let me know if you are interested.
> 
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C 37+ nameplates for sale

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

i am probably not interested in the SS version but very interested in the 
other.  Thanks
> On Jan 11, 2016, at 4:02 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Interested in a quote for something in a polished chrome or stainless.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> 
> On Jan 11, 2016 6:36 PM, "Rick Rohwer via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Interested
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Jan 11, 2016, at 14:47, Gary Russell via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
>> Well, I've got what I consider a reasonable quote for the nameplates.  I can 
>> supply them in black UV resistant polycarbonate for $75 each side plus 
>> shipping..  That includes everything including the NRE (non-recurring 
>> engineering charges).  The NRE is basically CAM charges).  I need to know 
>> who is interested.  I suspect I can  have them in about a week.  If there 
>> are similar nameplates for other C models, I can entertain getting them as 
>> well.  I don't know if I can get them in stainless steel, but if possible it 
>> will be quite a bit more expensive because of the small radii of some of the 
>> cuts.  A 1/16" cutter moves very slow in stainless
>> So let me know if you are interested.
>> 
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> '90 C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
>> <http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> <http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List winter condensation

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi Joe
We are running a dehumidifier about 10 hrs a day.  Really dried things up and 
is very comfortable. 34F outside, 64F inside and climbing.  We have it set to 
pull it down to 50 and shut off.  You can set them up to pump into the bilge or 
sink if you choose. 
Got this one at home depot. 
Cheers
Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA
> On Jan 5, 2016, at 9:10 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> This winter with weather going form warm and humid to cold and back has 
> caused more condensation than the last 10 winters combined. 
> Anyone have any good ideas to get rid of it? Right now I am thinking about 
> getting calcium chloride (the ingredient in Damp-Rid) and putting out a 
> bucket of it plus maybe turning the heat up. I usually have it set about 
> 45-50 degrees or so if I am not down there doing something. 
> Joe
> Coquina
> Cabin temp 51 degrees right now: http://aprs.fi/telemetry/a/N3HGB-5
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Chuck
For my two bits, Sterling Hayden wrote some damn fine books.  They lit me up!

Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA (damn it’s cold)

> On Dec 31, 2015, at 12:58 PM, Dave via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Whynott - a new one for the list- thanks.   wanderer is great, re read many 
> times.  Sterling Hayden was an intriguing guy, lived through interesting 
> times.  Voyage is very good too.  
> Dave
> 
> 
> Message: 12
> Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2015 14:59:18 -0500
> From: "Chuck Gilchrest"  >
> To: >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...
> Message-ID: <002101d14405$bc3db160$34b91420$@comcast.net 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"
> 
> All,
> One of my favorite reads that involves sailing and boat building is Douglass
> Whynott's "A Unit of Water, A Unit of Time", which is a non-fiction account
> of the last boat built by Joel White at Brooklin Boatyard in Maine (the son
> of writer EB White as well as being a prolific naval architect).  The book
> is a quiet book, best enjoyed in front of a fireplace with a few Benjamin
> Mendlowitz calendars and coffee table books available for reference photos
> of the various boats mentioned in the text.  
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1975 25 mk 1
> S/V Orion
> 1983 35 Landfall 
> Padanaram, MA 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Martin
> DeYoung via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 2:29 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Martin DeYoung >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...
> 
> Andrew,
> 
> If you enjoy Sterling Hayden's Wanderer, look for a copy of his novel
> "Voyage". IIRC it is set in 1900 and begins on a dark and stormy night in
> Boston harbor.  In short it is a story of a clipper ship hauling coal around
> the horn to San Francisco.
> 
> For years I carried paperback copies of Wanderer or Voyage to read on
> offshore passages and never got tired of re-reading them.
> 
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Seattle
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Andrew
> Burton via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 7:32 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Andrew Burton
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...
> 
> Rereading Wanderer, by Sterling Hayden. Great great book!
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett 
> Newport, RI 
> USA    02840 
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
> 
> +401 965-5260 
> 
>> On Dec 30, 2015, at 17:37, Dave via CnC-List > >
> wrote:
>> 
>> Just finished 'Moxie' by Phil weld - great book, impressive man.
>> In the same vein, about t re-read 'around the world alone' by Alain Colas.
> 
> 
> ___
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List FAO: Owner of Mithrandir II

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

i’d be willing to kick in for a reward to this fella for making the effort to 
get the dinghy back to the owner.  i’ll buy him a pint in Sidney on the next 
trip up! Give me his contact info!
Cheers back
Rick
Paikea 37+


> On Dec 29, 2015, at 7:08 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I seem to recall that there was a local C 33/35 called Mithrandir II, if 
> so, is this your dinghy?
> http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/found_26589081 
> 
> Cheers,
> Paul
> Orange Crush
> C MkII, Sidney, BC.
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I am pretty sure vaporized diesel will blow up like gasoline vapor.  I know 
vaporized cooking fat will.  Don’t most of the fuel docks ask you to shut down 
the engine and run the fan while fueling? 

I had never thought of it as an air supply for the engine.  

Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA



> On Dec 27, 2015, at 9:13 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Since we were talking blowers last week, I wonder why C installed marine 
> blowers even on boats that didn't have gas engines?  
> 
> I just today removed the rusted out ignition-protected blower in the stern of 
> my boat, which looked original. It had been disabled a while ago by a prior 
> owner (had no hoses attached, and the electrical wires aren't live) but never 
> completely removed. 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxfHpwssU_6NdlFtMXJRRTdIZzg/view?usp=sharing 
> 
> 
> West Marine has a page saying blowers are a must for gasoline, less so for 
> diesel but sometimes still advisable for air supply to the engine. But our 
> engine compartments are so huge and leaky (compared to many more modern boat 
> designs - like a Jeanneau with an insulated below-companionway-stairs engine 
> installation) that it seems quite unnecessary. Maybe that was the thinking of 
> the times in the 80's? 
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C LF38
> Seattle, WA
> 
> On Thu, Dec 24, 2015 at 8:27 AM,  > wrote:
> 
> 
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Nate Flesness >
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> >
> Cc: 
> Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 16:59:18 -0600
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki
> My 1980 30-1 has two hoses connected to the stern vents. One hose is blower 
> exhaust, the other runs forward to just aft of the engine and sits there - 
> air intake. I turn the tops accordingly. Very likely this is original. The 
> hose diameter fits tightly on the vent base, so 3" I.D.?  
> 
> Nate
> "Sarah Jean"
> Siskiwit Bay Marina
> Lake Superior
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List New beer can Genoa

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Jon, 
You could approach the problem at the root; will you consider getting rid of 
the wife?  ha ha, just kidding but it is tempting for me when my wife is the 
only obstacle between me and my toys!

Merry Christmas
Rick
Paikea
37+
Currently Bell Harbor, Seattle, WA

> On Dec 25, 2015, at 12:08 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Oh yeah, if you didn't figure it out it is made of dacron.
> 
> Josh
> 
> On Dec 25, 2015 1:32 PM, "Jon Tasker via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> I need an affordable 155% Genoa for my 37 for Wednesday nights. North wants 
> $5000, Ullman wants $3140. At age 75, my wife the questions the necessity. 
> Anyone got any suggestions.
> Jon Tasker
> C 37
> Muskegon MI
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Holiday wishes

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

We had 33 knots from the south with a nice square 7 foot chop on the nose and a 
beautiful 33 Degrees F.  It was a freezy roller coaster. 

Merry Christmas all,
Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA
> On Dec 24, 2015, at 5:06 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  
> This weather IS crazy. It was 17C (around 60F), just double the previous 
> record. The wind was big and nasty, too. 35-40 kt, supposedly up to 55 kt 
> gusts. But blue sky. So even if the boat was in, I don't think there would be 
> much sailing.
>  
> Happy Holidays 
>  
> Marek 
> In Ottawa
>  
> Sent from Mail  for Windows 10
>  
> 
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> Sent: December 24, 2015 14:33
> To: CnClist 
> Cc: Dennis C. 
> Subject: Stus-List Holiday wishes
>  
> Wishing all and their loved ones a happy and safe holiday season.  May the 
> New Year bring joy, fair winds and smooth seas.
> 
> 80+ F here today.  Just can't wrap my mind around that.  Lake forecast 
> showing 9-10 knots.  Sounds like a good sailing day here in south Louisiana.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List : off topic Skiing

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

That pass sounds great.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 14, 2015, at 18:34, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Apologies to the non-skiers on the list.  Yeah, $100+ is a bit painful.  OTH, 
> there are bargains available (and we know how much sailboat owners like 
> bargains.  There, it's sailing related).  I'm skiing 4 days at Steamboat, 4 
> days at Winter Park, several days at Copper Mountain and Crested Butte this 
> year on a $569 pass.  I also get access to Eldora, CO if I choose to go.  
> Also included are discounted single day tickets for friends.  Very good deal 
> if you are skiing 5+ days.
> 
> Vail offers various passes for their resorts.  Really good deals also if you 
> plan well and buy early.
> 
> I will be skiing in Colorado much of January, early February and again in 
> March if any listers are out there.  Have truck, will ski!  :)
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Mon, Dec 14, 2015 at 7:44 PM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> Enivous about equador, and you living in BC and skiing anywhere but BC. 
>> 
>> On another note, I think I have given up on skiing in Whistler so it’s all 
>> yours!  I think they have finally hit my personal affordability index with 
>> $119 for a tow ticket. Explains why you are skiing in Colorado!
>> 
>> Cheers
>> Rick
>> Paikea 37+
>> Poulsbo, WA
>> 
>>> On Dec 14, 2015, at 5:31 PM, Brad Crawford via CnC-List 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Bill,
>>>  
>>> Sounds cool, quite an adventure.  High altitude big mountain skiing for 
>>> sure?  Thanks for sharing that story.  Do you by chance have a link to 
>>> pictures you could share? Maybe share them off list?
>>>  
>>> bcrawf7...@comcast.net
>>>  
>>> Fellow Skier
>>> Brad Crawford
>>> C 36
>>> Seattle, WA
>>>  
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill 
>>> Hoyne via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Monday, December 14, 2015 9:21 AM
>>> To: Gaynor Hoyne; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: Bill Hoyne
>>> Subject: Stus-List : off topic Skiing
>>>  
>>> The winter season is upon us up here in the north. Trying to get a 
>>> headstart on the ski season a friend and I decided to do a ski 
>>> mountaineering trip to Ecuador. For all you skiers out there, here is a bit 
>>> of a trip description 
>>>  
>>> Our goal was to get as high as we could and ski some volcanoes. Getting 
>>> high on volcanoes usually means a severe headache and serious shortness of 
>>> breath :-) sorry no hallucinations!  After a week of acclimatization hikes 
>>> to 17,000’ we did our first ski ascent. We drove to the refugio and hiked 
>>> our skiis to the base of the glacier at 17,000’ and promptly got headaches 
>>> and a bad sleep so we went to town to recover. The next day we went back 
>>> and with a 3AM start we hiked up to our skiis and boot packed our shit to 
>>> the summit at 19,000’. We skied off the summit avoiding some seracs and 
>>> crevasses. We had to jump a few crevasses - that was fun!!. The snow was 
>>> rather thin, 1” of crusty snow over isothermal ice, made for some nice corn 
>>> skiing. The nearby volcano Cotopaxi was erupting and spewing a fine ash all 
>>> over the snow. It was interesting skiing black snow (not good for the bases 
>>> however). 
>>>  A couple of spa days later we headed up Volcan Antisana - another 18,700’. 
>>> We had similar snow conditions but much more severe route finding issues. 
>>> We negotiated some very big seracs and crevasses. Getting up and down 
>>> required and lot of vertical snow and ice climbing. We spent a few hours 
>>> route finding on the way dow trying to avoid the worst of the seracs and 
>>> finding the best way to ski. We jumped and toured around some big ass 
>>> crevasses, but made it back to safety by early afternoon, it was only a 12 
>>> hour day. 
>>> Ecuador is a beautiful country. Defiantly worth exploring, however climate 
>>> change has done a number on the snow conditions on the volcanoes, very warm 
>>> dry weather has melted the glaciers and opened the crevasses. Worth 
>>> climbing maybe not hauling skiis up to ski. 
>>> I am back home now and the cross country skiing is awesome. We went up to 
>>> Bow Summit in the Rockies and skied boot deep powder. It’s amazing how much 
>>> oxygen there is at 

Re: Stus-List : off topic Skiing

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Enivous about equador, and you living in BC and skiing anywhere but BC. 

On another note, I think I have given up on skiing in Whistler so it’s all 
yours!  I think they have finally hit my personal affordability index with $119 
for a tow ticket. Explains why you are skiing in Colorado!

Cheers
Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA

> On Dec 14, 2015, at 5:31 PM, Brad Crawford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bill,
>  
> Sounds cool, quite an adventure.  High altitude big mountain skiing for sure? 
>  Thanks for sharing that story.  Do you by chance have a link to pictures you 
> could share? Maybe share them off list?
>  
> bcrawf7...@comcast.net 
>  
> Fellow Skier
> Brad Crawford
> C 36
> Seattle, WA
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Hoyne 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, December 14, 2015 9:21 AM
> To: Gaynor Hoyne; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bill Hoyne
> Subject: Stus-List : off topic Skiing
>  
> The winter season is upon us up here in the north. Trying to get a headstart 
> on the ski season a friend and I decided to do a ski mountaineering trip to 
> Ecuador. For all you skiers out there, here is a bit of a trip description 
>  
> Our goal was to get as high as we could and ski some volcanoes. Getting high 
> on volcanoes usually means a severe headache and serious shortness of breath 
> :-) sorry no hallucinations!  After a week of acclimatization hikes to 
> 17,000’ we did our first ski ascent. We drove to the refugio and hiked our 
> skiis to the base of the glacier at 17,000’ and promptly got headaches and a 
> bad sleep so we went to town to recover. The next day we went back and with a 
> 3AM start we hiked up to our skiis and boot packed our shit to the summit at 
> 19,000’. We skied off the summit avoiding some seracs and crevasses. We had 
> to jump a few crevasses - that was fun!!. The snow was rather thin, 1” of 
> crusty snow over isothermal ice, made for some nice corn skiing. The nearby 
> volcano Cotopaxi was erupting and spewing a fine ash all over the snow. It 
> was interesting skiing black snow (not good for the bases however). 
>  A couple of spa days later we headed up Volcan Antisana - another 18,700’. 
> We had similar snow conditions but much more severe route finding issues. We 
> negotiated some very big seracs and crevasses. Getting up and down required 
> and lot of vertical snow and ice climbing. We spent a few hours route finding 
> on the way dow trying to avoid the worst of the seracs and finding the best 
> way to ski. We jumped and toured around some big ass crevasses, but made it 
> back to safety by early afternoon, it was only a 12 hour day. 
> Ecuador is a beautiful country. Defiantly worth exploring, however climate 
> change has done a number on the snow conditions on the volcanoes, very warm 
> dry weather has melted the glaciers and opened the crevasses. Worth climbing 
> maybe not hauling skiis up to ski. 
> I am back home now and the cross country skiing is awesome. We went up to Bow 
> Summit in the Rockies and skied boot deep powder. It’s amazing how much 
> oxygen there is at this elevation!! Life is good!
> Now, should I do a little sailing in January :-)
>  
> Happy Holidays to all you C listers!!
>  
> Bill
>  
>  
> Bill Hoyne
> Mithrandir
> ’74 C MkII
> in Victoria,BC
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Pleated Blinds

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

We had ours dry cleaned and it really helped a lot.  They were just dusty I 
guess. They hadn’t seen the sun much.  It really brightened them up.

Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA

> On Dec 9, 2015, at 9:52 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The pleated window blinds / shades in my 37 Plus have seen better days.  Has 
> anyone found appropriate replacements?  Where?
> 
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> 1990 C 47 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Lewmar Ocean Hatch Seals

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

i had been in contact with lewmar a couple of years ago trying to procure a 
trim kit for the 60 Series.  I was told that no parts for my hatch were still 
in the distribution chain and i would need it to change the hatch out to the 
“new” style  hatch.  Corner radii are different.  
i met a fellow 37+ owner in Nanaimo that had changed his Series 60 out with a 
hatch from Australia.  He said it fit right. I’ll drop him a line and see if I 
can get the info again.  Good luck.

Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA
> On Nov 16, 2015, at 9:13 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Rick,
> 
> I seem to recall that they changed the shape of the seal at some point in 
> time.  If they sent you a newer seal I don't know if it will work on the 
> older hatch.
> 
> Sounds like you need to lube the seal and pull it around the corners - a real 
> PIA!
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Mon, Nov 16, 2015 at 11:51 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> Sorry Rick, you're right I do have Lewmar hatches however, this is not 
> something which I've been forced to overcome.  Let us know how it turns out.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> On Nov 15, 2015 7:25 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> I spent 3 ½ trying hours today attempting to replace the hatch seal on the 
> Lewmar Ocean 60 foredeck hatch on Kathy Sisk’s 29-2. She bought the Lewmar 
> hatch seal kits for both the 60 series foredeck hatch and the 20 series on 
> the cabin top. We started with the foredeck hatch because that one has been 
> leaking.
> 
>  
> 
> The Lewmar instructions indicate you should insert the little flap on the 
> inside edge of the seal into the slot between the hatch frame and the lens, 
> and then stretch the seal so the lip on the outside edge of the seal engages 
> around the outside edge of the hatch frame. Easy enough to do on the straight 
> sides of the frame, but virtually impossible to do on the corners. I finally 
> gave up - with only 1 corner engaged - before I either ruined the seal or 
> went completely postal on Kathy for getting me involved in this project. 
> There must be either a secret or a special tool needed to simplify the job.
> 
>  
> 
> I’ve been looking online, and one source for seals tells you that you must 
> remove the lens to replace the seal if you use the Lewmar seals.
> 
>  
> 
> HELP! There are enough of you on the list that have Lewmar Ocean Hatches or 
> 29-2s. Somebody must know the secret of replacing these hatch seals.
> 
>  
> 
> Please, guys, what is it?
> 
>  
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
> Imzadi  C 38 mk 2
> 
> la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1
> 
> Washington, NC
> 
>  
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List outboard size

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

We have 8' AB aluminum bottom with 5hp Merc 2stroke long shaft. Works great but 
won't plane with more than one aboard
Cheers
Rick 
Paige's 37+
Poulsbo, WA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 26, 2015, at 10:27 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The J-80 I race on uses a Honda 2hp 4 stroke. Moves along quite nicely, but 
> vibrates. The J-24 has a Tohatsu 3 hp two stroke and also moves along nicely. 
> I would think anything 2 hp or more would move your inflatable well, just 
> don't expect to plane.
>  
> Gary
> - Original Message -
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
> To: CnClist
> Cc: Dennis C.
> Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 12:46 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List outboard size
> 
> One night we had rowed our inflatable dinghy to a neighboring boat for 
> dinner.  During dinner the wind came up.  Our boat owner friend towed us back 
> to our boat with his dinghy with 2.5 hp Tohatsu.  It was a little bit of a 
> struggle but the little Tohatsu did the job.
> 
> I have a used 80's Evinrude 7.5 that will plane my 9'4" dinghy.  However, if 
> I was buying a new one, I'd definitely go much smaller.  I think a 2.2-2.5 hp 
> would be fine.
> 
> The last 3-4 years I haven't even put the OB on the dink, preferring instead 
> to row and avoid the hassle of installing/removing the heavy OB.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Mon, Oct 26, 2015 at 11:32 AM, Michael Jones via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Ls and Gs
>> 
>> Can you help me? I have recently bought an 8ft inflatable as tender and am 
>> looking at second hand outboard options. Can you advise me of adequate size 
>> required? Specifically I have seen a 2,2 hp advertised. Will that be enough 
>> to potter to the dock and back? The safety sticker on the boat says up to 
>> 5hp but that seeems a bit much and heavy.
>> 
>> Thanks and regards
>> 
>> Mike Jones
>> Seanachai, 1981 C 34
>> Victoria
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Wow, 3 years for bottom paint is pretty darn good! Are you in really cold or 
brackish environment?
I have a neighbor in my marina that is going to be in the Smithsonian if he can 
keep the garden growing under his vintage Columbia sloop!  He did get a nice 25 
hp Merc installed on the back since I saw it last. He somehow turned it around 
in the slip! I thought it was attached to the bottom!
Rick
Paige's 37+

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 22, 2015, at 7:17 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Three years is about the experience I had when I still used Micron for
> bottom paint.
> 
> Tip for you paint job in the spring: As a first coat paint the forward third
> of the hull, the forward half of the keel, and the forward half of the
> rudder with a contrasting color of paint. I use blue as a first coat under
> my red bottom paint. The contrasting paint is your "signal coat". Then paint
> the other costs with your preferred color. When the paint is sluffed off to
> the point that the signal coat is visible, it is time to repaint the bottom.
> 
> I'm surprised that the base of the barnacles didn't get removed by pressure
> washing. But then you paint had exceeded its life and the copper was
> probably completely leached out of the paint.
> 
> Try taking a 1 1/2 or 2' wide wood chisel to the base disc of the barnacles.
> Lay the edge of the chisel along the edge of the disc with the chisel almost
> flush with the paint surface, and give the chisel a thump with your hand.
> The disc should just pop off. That's has worked for me since I was shown the
> trick by a yard mechanic several years ago.
> 
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 3:11 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: robert 
> Subject: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint
> 
> For the past 4 sailing seasons, I have used Micron 66the first 3
> seasons/haulouts, the bottom was void of any marine growth, and no
> slime.didn't even need a pressure wash.
> 
> This haulout (season #4), the bottom was infested with barnaclesnot a
> few scattered around, a significant number all overI wet sanded, which
> removed the most of the little critters (and a lot of the 66) but there are
> still traces of the 'little critters'.  Not sure if I will sand them out
> completely or simply paint over them next Spring.
> 
> Anybody have this problem and how did you finally deal with it?
> 
> On a further antifouling paint story, years back in the Binnacle, a fellow
> sailor/racer approached the shelves of antifouling paintshe stops and
> pulls out a brass 'fishing scale'..I watch..he puts a gallon of a
> brand on the scale, then another, and another, etc.  He 
> chooses a gallon.   Naturally, I had to go over and ask what he was 
> doing "weighing the amount of copper in each paint Bob.this gallon
> weighs the most and that's the one I am putting on 'Apocalypse', his 40 ft,
> home made in his back yard, race machine.
> 
> Maybe that's how I will choose my next gallon of antifouling paint!
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List bilge pump

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi 
My 37+ has 750gph in a shallow bilge and 1250gph in the deep bilge. I am 
replacing the backup manual pump from the cockpit that if you have a frightened 
man aboard is rated at 15 gpm (in that range, the more scared you are the 
higher the rating)! The mechanism recently failed so a brand new pump is 
waiting my return to be installed. The previous owner had installed both 
electric pumps incorrectly so I had an electrician come aboard and identify the 
appropriate circuits for me to install new Rule pumps.  Both now function both 
auto and via panel switch.
If you double the capacity the wiring and breakers need to be adjusted as well. 
 Lots of info on the Internet.
It's not rocket science and everyone has a different opinion on the proper 
setup.  
Good luck
Rick
Paikea37+
Poulsbo, WA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 5, 2015, at 6:00 AM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I suggest checking out this website for some realistic information about 
> bilge pumps and their effectiveness:
> 
> http://www.safety-marine.co.uk/spages/how-to-specify-the-right-bilge-pump-for-your-vessel.htm
> 
> There are many other sites with similar information.
> 
> It bears out my thought that the best bilge pump is a frightened man with a 
> bucket.
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> Boatless and pumpless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> Boatless!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Oct 4, 2015, at 17:34, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> You just have to find one that fits.  You can set up a second, maybe bigger, 
> pump in a higher location for emergencies or a failure of the primary.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Oct 4, 2015 8:14 PM, "Harald Braun via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> Hi, my wife and I are sailing on a 35ft C MK3 and want to replace our 
>> bilge pump from a rule 500 to a rule 1500, unfortunately the new pump 
>> doesn’t fit right. Has anybody ever enlarged their bilge pump? Any help 
>> would be appreciated.
>>  
>> Cheers
>> Harald
>>  
>> www.davenportcatering.com
>> 519-746-0152
>> 519-574-1058 (cell)
>> 25 Years of Great Food Service!
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List bus heater

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I had a similar heater (Red Dot) on a previous 36 ft cutter with vent in salon. 
It would nearly drive you out of the boat with heat. I hope to install similar 
heater on my boat using existing ducting from my Espar heater so that either 
system could provide heat depending on whether the engine was cooking or not! 
It's on the project list!  We have a propane wall furnace as well and it has 
been very effective and appreciated.
The Red Dot was probably one of the best $200-300 dollar investments I made in 
that boat. Boat was usually dry as a bone and my family would be fine for 
winter and cold weather trips!
I can't imagine why it would make much difference which way you run the glycol 
loop but It is important to run it down line of the thermostat in my opinion so 
that the engine maintains it's heat level. Diesels don't like to run cool 
apparently!
Good luck with your project!
Cheers
Rick
Paikea  37+
Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 26, 2015, at 3:32 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Mike
> That should work well.  Two comments:
> 1) make sure stuff can't shift in the locker to contact the fan blades - some 
> of their heaters don't have grills over the back of the fans.
> 2) you should consider where the air is going to get sucked from as you want 
> to ensure enough of it can get in.  I've got a unit in the locker under the 
> v-berth, and added a little grill so that air can get sucked back in.
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>> On 2015-09-25 1:15 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
>> Hi
>>  
>> Purchased the following heater from “The Binnacle” in Halifax.  I did this 
>> since we sail from beginning of May til end of October every year.  Not 
>> interested in a wall furnace just some heat while under motor (deliveries, 
>> etc…)
>>  
>> http://ca.binnacle.com/BBQ-Stoves-and-Heaters-Cabin-Heaters/c7_266/p8587/HEATER-CRAFT-COMPACT-CABIN-HEATER/product_info.html
>>  
>> Any comments on the installation?  Am planning to install on forward facing 
>> knee wall of quarter berth facing nav station.  Am thinking that I will rout 
>> the hose currently going to water heater to this heater first and from there 
>> to hot water heater.  Have a Yanmar 3GM30F with hot water etc …
>>  
>> Mike
>>  
>> Persistence
>> 1987 Ferrs 33
>>  
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Autopilot steering

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi
My 37+ pulls hard to port under full throttle, prop effect I am sure.  I am 
running a 3 blade prop.   You might be able to minimize the effect with a prop 
change.  Good luck.

Rick
 On Aug 26, 2015, at 10:43 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Calling Raymarine was my first action and I am waiting for a call back.  But 
 what I really want to know from the group is whether the relatively strong 
 pull to port while motoring is normal or whether neutral helm is normal.  Dave
 
 Aries
 1990 CC 34+
 New London, CT
 
 pastedGraphic.tiff
 
 On Aug 26, 2015, at 1:03 PM, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 yep...call Raymarine
 
 David F. Risch
 (401) 419-4650 (cell)
 
 
 Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2015 12:52:24 -0400
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot steering
 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 CC: davidakne...@gmail.com mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com
 
 No- It is smooth by hand.  No stiffness I have noticed.  
 
 Aries
 1990 CC 34+
 New London, CT
 
 pastedGraphic.tiff
 
 On Aug 26, 2015, at 12:50 PM, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Does the steering hang up at all when the autopilot is disengaged?
 
 David F. Risch
 1981 40-2
 (401) 419-4650 (cell)
 
 
 Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2015 12:04:11 -0400
 To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Autopilot steering
 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 CC: davidakne...@gmail.com mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com
 
 I was on a long cruise last weekend and we ended up motoring for many hours. 
   installed a new Raymarine EV1/ST4000+ wheel pilot last winter and this was 
 the first extended use.  I found that it was frequently cutting out while 
 motoring (not sailing).  The unit would simply freeze up and stop steering 
 while the boat drifted slowly off course.  No error on the P70 controller 
 screen until I got an off course warning.  I also noticed the wheel pilot 
 getting warm/hot when this was happening which may be why it cut out.
 I also notice that while motoring, there is significant pull on the wheel 
 that has to be fought to keep the boat going straight.  Is that normal?  I 
 am guessing that the wheel pilot is overheating due to the power needed to 
 continuously fight that pull?  Thanks- Dave
 
 Aries
 1990 CC 34+
 New London, CT
 
 pastedGraphic.tiff
 
 
 ___ Email address: 
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list 
 preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___ Email address: 
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list 
 preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Was Wire Gauge, now Where can I get LED?

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi Jonathan
I made a similar change to a perko from Aquasignal 40 series fixture and 
replaced the bulb with LED.. Very simple. Look carefully at the entry of the 
wiring so that you don’t have a bottom entry if you have a different type. You 
need to make sure you have enough wire to connect the new fitting if not the 
same make.  I redrilled a mounting hole. I think the AS25 is still available 
though and pretty reasonably priced.  I just couldn’t find the replacement when 
needed so switched manufacturers.  
Rick
Paikea 37+  
 On Aug 21, 2015, at 7:33 PM, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Being totally ignorant on this topic, can someone tell me if there is an LED 
 that fits the Aquasignal 25 stern light - and is it just a simple task of 
 taking the old incandescent bulb out and replacing with the LED or something 
 more complex? I need to replace the lens on my stern light - no replacement 
 parts available so have to buy a complete unit and thought I might switch to 
 LED at the same time. 
 
 --
 Jonathan
 Indigo CC 35III
 SOUTHPORT CT
 
 On Aug 20, 2015, at 16:24, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I cannot say anything about your tricolour, but I have a white LED in the 
 combination red/green bow light on my boat. It certainly shows the right 
 colours through the lens. But this may (will?) depend on the lens and the 
 LED.
  
 Marek
  
 From: Alex Giannelia via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2015 12:12 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Alex Giannelia mailto:a...@airsensing.com
 Subject: Stus-List Was Wire Gauge, now Where can I get LED?
  
 So,
  
 I recently installed a PERKO masthead tri-light and want to know if one can 
 insert a replacement LED trilight.  I understand that with the narrow 
 spectrum range of some LED’s, I might not be able to insert a replacement 
 white light LED but would need some kind of tri-light bulb.
  
 What have others done for their masthead tri-lights?
  
 Thanks,
  
 
 Alex Giannelia
 a...@airsensing.com mailto:a...@airsensing.com
 (416) 203-9858
  
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List LPG tank -- 37+

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

my LPG tank is 18” and you might squeeze another .25” but not a .5”

Rick
Paikea 37+
 On Aug 20, 2015, at 12:01 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Edd
 
 I just got back from 3 weeks out.  But I eft my glasses on board.  So, I'll 
 be on board later today...I check it out for you then...maybe get a picture 
 too.
 
 Tom B
 
 At 11:06 AM 8/20/2015, you wrote:
 Message: 8
 Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2015 14:03:50 -0400
 From: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com mailto:e...@schillay.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List LPG tank -- 37+
 Message-ID: 78dac694-456e-498d-bb46-b2ec98133...@schillay.com 
 mailto:78dac694-456e-498d-bb46-b2ec98133...@schillay.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
 
 Tom,
 
 Do you know which one you bought? The link you sent is for one with is 
 18.25 tall, and the one it?s replacing is 17? tall ? and while there was a 
 little room, I?m not sure it?s 18.25? of room there, 
 
 Anyone near their CC 37+ that can measure the interior max height of the 
 propane locker?? 
  
 
 All the best,
 
 Edd
 
 
 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY 
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ 
 http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/
 Tom Buscaglia
 SV Alera
 1990 CC 37+/40
 Vashon Island WA
 (206) 463-9200
 www.sv-alera.com
  http://www.sv-alera.com/___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Was Wire Gauge, now Where can I get LED?

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I have the bulbs and replacement lenz ready to change but can’t find a monkey 
for the mast work.  Several pole climbing ladies have offered and then backed 
out.  I’ll get up there eventually.  

Rick
Paikea 37+
 On Aug 20, 2015, at 9:44 AM, svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Alex, 
 On Pegasus I installed led bulbs in my mast head tri light. I got them from 
 Superbrightled.com http://superbrightled.com/ or something like that 
 several years ago. They have been working great. Using 0.4-.5 amps for the 
 anchor light. 
 
 Doug Mountjoy
 svPegasus
 LF38 
 just west of Ballard, WA. 
 
 
 -- Original message--
 From: Alex Giannelia via CnC-List
 Date: Thu, Aug 20, 2015 09:13
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
 Cc: Alex Giannelia;
 Subject:Stus-List Was Wire Gauge, now Where can I get LED?
 
 So,
  
 I recently installed a PERKO masthead tri-light and want to know if one can 
 insert a replacement LED trilight.  I understand that with the narrow 
 spectrum range of some LED’s, I might not be able to insert a replacement 
 white light LED but would need some kind of tri-light bulb.
  
 What have others done for their masthead tri-lights?
  
 Thanks,
  
 
 Alex Giannelia
 a...@airsensing.com mailto:a...@airsensing.com
 (416) 203-9858 tel:(416) 203-9858
  
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List LPG tank -- 37+

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi Edd
It is Liquid propane gas, same as barbie!

Rick

Paikea  37+
 On Aug 20, 2015, at 5:09 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Listers,
 
 I think this was covered in the past, but I'm getting older and I forgot the 
 answer. 
 
 In my 37+, I have a tank labelled LPG for my stove. I need to get it 
 refilled. 
 
 Is this propane? The same propane used for bbq grills? Or is LPG something a 
 little different? 
 
 
 All the best,
 
 Edd
 
 ---
 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 NCC-1701-B
 CC 37+ | City Island, NY
 www.StarshipSailing.com http://www.starshipsailing.com/
 ---
 914.332.4400  | Office
 914.774.9767  | Mobile
 ---
 Sent via iPhone 6
 iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Battery question for LF38 owners

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

The fresh water kills all the saltwater organisms, but you are right,the boat 
should float slightly lower since fresh is lighter than salt!!  

I’ve had boats in fresh water though and the slime grows just about as fast 
until you take a sail in the salt. 

Rick
Paikea 37+

 On Aug 19, 2015, at 8:13 PM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 in fresh water your boat sits lower.   ;-)
 
 Leslie.
 
 
 On Wed, 8/19/15, William Hall via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery question for LF38 owners
 To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: William Hall wh...@alum.mit.edu
 Date: Wednesday, August 19, 2015, 7:33 AM
 
 My CC
 37 has the house batteries in about that same place.  Easy
 to get to.  The only issue is that between batteries,
 inverter, radome etc, the boat sits a little low in the
 stern, leading to growth on the gel coat just above the
 bottom paint.  My solution was to move to
 freshwater!
 BillStarfire1985
 CC 37Now in Ludington, MI
 On Wed, Aug 19, 2015 at
 10:20 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:
 I put two extra batteries on a
 shelf I build in the starboard cockpit locker against the
 forward bulkhead.  I used sealed batteries throughout so
 those two that are a bitch to get to won't need much
 attention.
 Bob
 On Aug 19, 2015, at 10:14 AM, Rick
 Brass via CnC-List wrote:
 I'm helping a friend move his LF38 to
 NC, and along the way we are making up a project list. The
 boat will be used for live aboard cruising.
 
 The current setup has one new
 start battery as bank 1, and two old batteries in parallel
 as the house bank 2. The old house batteries need to be
 replaced in the next couple of weeks, and we would like to
 maximize the AHR capacity and try to increase the number of
 batteries in the house bank. 
 
 The start battery is in the locker under the
 front half of the quarter berth. The house batteries are on
 a shelf on the port side of the engine compartment (and are
 a bitch to get to). There is no room for more batteries on
 the shelf.
 
 So where have
 you guys installed additional batteries to increase the size
 of you house bank?
 
 Rick
 Brass
 Jim Schwartz
 s/v Sea
 Ya
 1983 LF38 Hull # 105
 
 Sent from my iPad
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 Bob Boyer
 S/V
 Rainy Days (1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
 email: dainyrays@icloud.comblog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
 
 There is
 nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as
 simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth
 Grahame
 
 
 
 ___
 
 
 
 Email address:
 
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 -- 
 William D. Hall, Ph.D.
 617 620
 9078 (c)
 wh...@alum.mit.edu
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 37 icebox rebuild

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi 
I want to replace the seal on my ice box.  “Paikea” is a 37+.  Anyone know 
where to source that seal material?  Thanks

Rick
Blake Island (today)

 On Aug 19, 2015, at 9:17 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Dave – 
 .   I also have a 37 (’84) and just did a quick review of your Ronin refit 
 site.  Have you tackled the re-insulation of the ice box?  It’s been on my 
 list for a couple years and I’m thinking about putting it on the list this 
 winter.
  
 Thanks,
 Pete
  
  
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin via CnC-List
 Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2015 10:34 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Dave Godwin
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery question for LF38 owners
  
 Not sure about space underneath the quarter-berth on a LF38 but like Bill on 
 “Starfire”, the 37’ has a similar setup.
  
 I’ve rebuilt 
 http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/2014/02/starting-battery-locker-redesign.html
  my starter battery area underneath the quarter-berth and although I only 
 have a single starting battery per the original configuration, I made sure 
 that the new shelf would allow for a second battery should I go that route.
  
 That said, I yanked the old Raritan hot-water heater and replaced it with a 
 new Isotherm unit thereby freeing up more space.
  
 Dave Godwin
 1982 CC 37 - Ronin
 Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
 Ronin’s Overdue Refit http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/
  
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Rust stains and welding

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Citric acid @ 20%

Sent from my iPhone

 On Aug 17, 2015, at 1:11 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 The heat of welding will change the physical properties of stainless, so he 
 may (probably did) use stainless rod but it's now less stainless. You could 
 try repassivating it with a product called Wichinox. 
 http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|2303285|2303294id=1819274
 
 Davis FSR will remove the rust stains. If you want to use just the active 
 ingredient, it's oxalic acid. You can buy it as Wood Bleach at hardware 
 stores.
 I'm not sure muriatic acid would be appropriate here.
 
 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC
 
 On 17 August 2015 at 13:03, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 Muriatic acid will get ride of the rust stains.  Sudbury Hull Cleaner 
 contains it.
 
 My rigger welded my pushpit, but he is in Annapolis.  Not sure what he used 
 for welding rod.
 
 Joel
 35/3
 
 On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 3:48 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Last year I had noticed a small crack in my rear pulpit tubing.
 This spring before launch I hired a mobile welder to come out to the boat 
 repair the area - he had a tough time with the wind swirling and had to 
 repeatedly grind down the dirty weld to do it over.
 
 The final repair was adequate (pretty rough - but sealed the crack and 
 seemed solid).  Unfortunately a few weeks later I discovered a million 
 little rust stains in the gel coat.  We tried to scrub them out with Comet 
 - but mostly just brightened up the gel coat.  CLR didn't seem to do much - 
 maybe a longer soak?
 
 Any suggestions on cleaning?  I'm wondering about doing a bit of a white 
 wash with stain to see if that will clean them.
 
 Now the area he repaired is showing some signs of rust - obviously he 
 welded with steel and that is rusting.  I had another weld that gave way (a 
 lower bracket on the rear pulpit) - and I'd rather avoid repeating the same 
 issue.  Not sure how close to fiberglass they can safely weld - removing 
 the whole rear pulpit wouldn't be a fun process, but likely smart to get it 
 done properly.
 
 Any specific questions I should be asking of a stainless welder? 
 Recommendations in Halifax area?
 I'm also wanting to build a small arch for a solar panel - maybe integrated 
 right into the rear pulpit
 
 Mark
 CS 30 - Prosecco
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 -- 
 Joel 
 301 541 8551
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List List down?

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

No wifi until today in Ladysmith BC.  Hope all are well!

 On Jul 19, 2015, at 10:41 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I think everyone (but you and I…) are out on their boats…   :^(
 
 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
 
 On Jul 19, 2015, at 12:37 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Nothing since Friday...is the list down or is everyone out sailing?
 
 Tom Buscaglia
 S/V Alera 
 1990 CC 37+/40
 Vashon WA
 P 206.463.9200
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List CC 37+ Repower -- Ugh

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Thanks Tom.  I might be able to get the 7-7.3  but my rpm’s are-2400.  I think 
my tach is off (she could be dirty too) and that is why I have the question.  
What’s your overall opinion on the MAXPROP? Any suggestion on something else, 
or is that the prop? 
Raining in the San Juans this AM but getting clearer and hotter in the PM.
Heading for the gulfs for the Bluegrass in Chemainus! Wish I could hang out for 
the rendezvous in Telegraph!  Sounds like a great group!
Cheers

Rick
(Poulsbo) currently Friday Harbor and heading north in the AM
CC 37+ Paikea
 On Jul 12, 2015, at 1:43 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Rick
 
 Alera, with a clean bottom and prop, will cruise at 7-7.3 at around 2600 rpm 
 on the tach.  But I think the tach is off.  Yanmar 3HM35 for power w Maxprop 
 3 blade.  That said, even a little crud buildup will slow her down to as low 
 as 6.5.
 
 Tom Buscaglia
 S/V Alera 
 1990 CC 37+/40
 Vashon WA
 P 206.463.9200
 
 
 On Jul 12, 2015, at 9:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Message: 1
 Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2015 22:06:32 +
 From: rickroh...@gmail.com
 To: =?utf-8?Q?cnc-list@cnc-list.com?= cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 37+ Repower -- Ugh
 Message-ID: 55a194b2.e8c5b60a.272d.0...@mx.google.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
 
 Edi
 
 Just curious about your rpm?s at 7.2! I assume you have it floored?  I would 
 like to go feathering prop on my next haul out. Mine is HM35F I think? Thanks
 
 
 Rick
 
 Paikea CC 37+
 
 Currently Friday Harbor, San Juan Island, WA
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 37 Plus Below-Deck Autopilot

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I will try to send you some pics of my ram on 37+ tomorrow.  
Rick
Paikea
currently in Langley, Whidbey Island, WA
 On Jul 7, 2015, at 3:02 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 I just bought a 37 Plus and want to install a below deck autopilot.  Has 
 anyone done this?  I am interested in the details of how (and where) to mount 
 the ram.  Pictures would be wonderful.
 
 Thanks,
 Gary
 S/V High Maintenance
 1990 CC 37 Plus
 East Greenwich, RI, USA
 ~~~_/)~~
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Handrail question

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Neil
Let me know if I can help.  I am looking at my 6 loop teak handrails on a 
1989-90 37+.

Rick
Paikea, 
Langley, Whidbey Island, WA (just for tonight)
 On Jul 7, 2015, at 4:24 PM, Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 A rigger that I am no longer using broke one of my 6 loop teak handrails on 
 my cabin on my CC 32 (1982).
 
 I am looking for the dimensions since I am hours from my boat.
 
 Neil
 FoxFire, 1982 CC 32
 
 Sent from Surface Pro
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 37+ holding tank

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I think these tanks can be re welded fairly inexpensively. I had one redone 
some time ago and wish I had bought the Chicago Electric kit and done it 
myself! Pulling the tank from my Nauticat at the time was about 90% of the work!

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jun 25, 2015, at 1:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Hi Len,
  Thank you for the tip.  I will contact them right away.
 Best regards,
 Gary
 
 ~~~_/)~~
 
 
 On Thu, Jun 25, 2015 at 11:27 AM, Mitchell's via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 Gary, Holland Marine in Toronto had a couple a year or two ago. I bought a 
 plastic tank for our boat and it was a direct fit. He apparently bought the 
 left over inventory. I doubt he sells many. Ask for Peter. If you want any 
 information about refitting the tank, I did ours and also converted the port 
 side water tank to holding for use in the Great Lakes. Awesome boat!
 Len Mitchell
 Crazy Legs
 1989 37+
 
 Sent from my mobile device.
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com