Stus-List Re: Material choice & Sources for clear hatch boards

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

I agree with the choice of Acrylic, and still like the 1 piece. Easier to store without scratching.Consider using the "Smoke" version, it's much better for the interior than sitting in the sun with clearIf you go with the 3 piece, figure out how you will provide rain-off at the section joints. Half lapped or tapered??Good luck.Ron C ImpromptuC 38MKIIC'77On May 29, 2024 10:39 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  wrote:I made mine (one piece) out of acrylic (Plexiglass). It doesn't scratch as easily as polycarbonate (Lexan). Don't let your blades (saw or router blades) get hot or they will melt the material. There are several places in and around Portland, OR. that sell both types of material. You don't say where you are located, but if you Google acrylic and your location, something should pop up.Alan Bergen35 Mk III ThirstyRose City YCPortland, OROn Wed, May 29, 2024 at 6:53 AM Karl Kuzis via CnC-List  wrote:Good day all,FIREFLY is in need of a hatch board upgrade from her one piece solid wood slab.Looking to move back to a 3 part style with (at least) 1 part made of a clear(ish) plastic.The question to the group is who has used what type of plastic and how have they held up.(Plexiglass vs lexan vs ?)And associated, who has a good source for the material ?I have the ability to shape / cut / etc so I don't need a finished product, simply raw stock material.Thanks in advance for the input!Respectfully, KarlKarl KuzisFIREFLY - C 29 Mk 1karl.ku...@gmail.com
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Thanks for your help.
Stu
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Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Jeff; We solved this issue on my 38MKIIC several years ago.I replaced mine with 4 speed Pontos and we've never looked back.I think that Karver purchased the Pontos technology. They have very convincing videos and these winches work just like they say.There are no buttons to push for gear changing, just reverse the grinding when there's tension and reverse back for the next gear.The initial gear is so fast that, in a pinch, my 155 genoa trimmer can release and get to the opposite winch and complete the tack singlehanded.On Sep 12, 2023 10:45 AM, "Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List"  wrote:
Hello all,
I have attempted to search the archives for information and opinions on new primary winches
 for C, but was not able to locate a discussion.  If there has been, my apologies.  It has become apparent that the old, Lewmar, self-tailing, 2-spd winches that came on my boat are not adequate -- in a moderate wind with a 155 genoa it takes two crew cranking
 with all their strength to bring the sheet in far enough.  I and the crew are not getting younger, either -- average age about 65 to 70.  I don't know the details of gear ratios and power ratio for these old Lewmars, but am investigating so I have that as
 a reference.  If any of you C, or similar sized boat, owners have recommendations for replacement, 2-spd, self-tailing winches, I would be grateful.  I frequently sail solo and hope to be able to continue for another 10 to 15 years (if I live to be 80!),
 so I need to factor that in the decision.  Also, any experiences or recommendations for the actual removal and installation would be great too!  Thanks.




Jeff Laman

1981 C Harmony
Ludington, MI

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Stus-List Re: Hull painting

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

That stuff won't fit on the new boat??On Aug 22, 2023 3:04 PM, George Cone via CnC-List  wrote:

I’m wrong again, it is custom gelcoat, made by Fibre Glast Developments Corp – we used their color chart to get the color
 
I’ll forward a photo of the can later.
 
I have all sorts of sheet, spinnaker sheets , sails spinnakers available also.

 
Thanks,
George 
 
 
 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 

Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2023 2:09 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull painting

 


What kind of paint?


 


Bill Coleman


Erie PA

 


On Tue, Aug 22, 2023 at 1:34 PM George Cone via CnC-List  wrote:





One detail, I have / had a 1981 c  40 white, I had a quart of special paint made to do some patching. Unfortunately the boat was hit by lightning before the 4th of
 July so I have no further need for the paint, $20.00 and it is yours!
 
The boat was totaled due to hull penetrations  
 
Thanks,
 
George Cone

 











 
















Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: C 27 Mainsail

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Peter, how old is this $400 investment??It better be in very good shape or you're going to go down the same path as before.If you decide to keep it.Realize that removing 1 foot off the foot removes the greatest sail area.taking that same foot off the head, almost removes no area.Recutting the top might be less disturbing in the major sail shape.Ron C.On Jul 14, 2023 10:41 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List  wrote:I've determined the main on my 27 MkIII is actually sized for a MkII. So, P=29ft vs 31ft and E=9.5ft vs 10ft ... which explains why I could never fully hoist to the upper black mark. No idea how old the main is. It has a couple patches. It had some stitching redone about 10 years ago and converted to loose foot at the same time. I recall the loft mamager inspecting it and making several comments at the time, for example on batten pockets, along the lines of "we haven't done things like that for decades" ... so that gives some perspective on age, perhaps. Now I've come across a very decent main for $400 CAD, but it's for a Newport 28. The Newport has a P=32.5ft and E=10.3ft. But I think this particular one measures a P around 32ft. Regardless, a bit bigger than ideal. So I have it from the seller to test fit. I'll see if I can get it into one of the local lofts to be checked out. Thoughts? Drop the boom a bit? Get it recut?
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Stus-List Re: Selling my 40-2

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Hello Rick, could you provide pictures, what year built, and what else comes with it...sails(condition), electronics, upgrades since built, motor make and condition.In other words, a general listing format would be helpful. Ron C.IMPROMPTU C 38MKIIC..'77On May 17, 2023 6:49 PM, w6re via CnC-List  wrote:Hello all on the list,    I am selling my 40-2 40' C sailboat if anyone is interested on the west coast in the Los Angeles harbor area. Letting her go due to time constraints and family stuff. Needs a bit of work but priced very attractive for someone wanting a nice boat. Super price considering condition but needs minor work, 10.5k will include lots of parts and everything for the most part that is needed to get ready. Hope it was alright to list on here. I have lots of pics and she's a documented vessel.Any interest you can contact me and we can take it off list.Thanks all,Rick E.S/V StarlightSent via the Samsung Galaxy Note10+, an AT 5G Evolution capable smartphonePlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stus-List Re: General guidance for parting out lots of stuff:

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

So, Group…I’ve already replied to Pete’s request for help. But that made me 
think about my own situation………I own a 1977 C MKIIC…….I have continually 
upgraded it and for the past 10 years, we’ve been racing it with a crew that 
I’ve been with for over 30 years.  Yes, we’re all getting older, but in the 
process, I’ve removed a bunch of gear.  Things like all of the original 
winches, the baby stay and gear, a couple of sets of Garhauer genoa cars, and 
lots of hardware like 2 brand new Garhauer turning blocks from a C 115? 

What does the group suggest for a way to list this stuff?  I’d like to keep it 
inside the C list, and while I’m in Sarasota until late May, I could be 
assembling the list by then.  Obviously, some stuff is going to be free……like 
the winches if you pay to ship them, and lots of smaller hardware just needs to 
go to a good home (boat).  

 

Ron Casciato

IMPROMPTU

C 38MKIIC…’77

Hull # 125.

 

From: pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2023 12:20 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: pete.shelqu...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Jam Cleat

 

I’m looking for a source on a couple jam cleats similar to what came on our 
80’s vintage C 37.  

 

Initial online review has come up short and hoping someone can help me out.

 

Thanks,

Pete

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Stus-List Re: Jam Cleat

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Pete, good to hear from you ……….do you have a picture?  I have the 38MKII and 
actually, I have lots of spares and stuff….even winches.  I’m not close to the 
boat at this point, but if I had a picture, I could tell you if I have it.  
Best,  Ron CAsciato

 

From: pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2023 12:20 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: pete.shelqu...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Jam Cleat

 

I’m looking for a source on a couple jam cleats similar to what came on our 
80’s vintage C 37.  

 

Initial online review has come up short and hoping someone can help me out.

 

Thanks,

Pete

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me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Limber Holes

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Hi Matt. My Bruckman 38 MKII has the very same limber hole problemItried yo get at them from the other side, but the ones at the bulkhead chainplate locker are closed off with cabinetry.After this discussion, after I confirm that they are even open, I will try the poured epoxy idea from the esrlier video. That chainplate locker has the hull on the outside, I don't want to chance redrilling the holes and going through the hull.But this thread puts the project on my spring list.Just a note, I was required to have my boat surveyed this past November for insurance coverage. Besides nut reading the expiration dates of my flares and noting that one of my batteries wasn't secured He noted that there wss water at the bottom of my chain plate lockersThey are usually dry, which I suppose means that they eventually drain, but he surved the boat out of the water and in the second day of rain..Thanks guys for the comments now on my list.Ron C.On Jan 26, 2023 1:06 PM, Matt Wolford via CnC-List  wrote:I like it, too.  However, drilling out copper tubes in tight locations seems like a burdensome way to go.  I suspect he’s correct about why the holes were not placed flush (the drill getting in the way), but this could have been easily remedied by drilling up from downhill of the hole where there’s a lot more room to maneuver.  The fact that they didn’t do that suggests either: a) there’s a problem with doing that I have yet to discover; or b) who cares if puddles of water accumulate here and there – get the boat out the door and start building the next one. After the weather warms up a bit, I will try re-orienting a limber hole using Joel’s suggested approach and see how it goes.  I’ll report back to let you know how it goes.  In the meantime, if any of you can think of an easier or better way (like my poured epoxy idea?), let me know.  Thanks. Matt From: Richard Bush  Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2023 11:34 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: wolford@erie.netSubject: Re: Stus-List Re: Limber Holes   I like Joel's suggestion; opening up the hole down to the hull surface, then putting sealer or epoxy in replacement of the tubing to keep the water from soaking into the hull...; my personal solution is an assortment of sponges and turkey basters  Richards/v Bushmark4; 1085 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596;   Richard N. Bush Law Offices2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite NineLouisville, Kentucky 40220(502) 584-7255  -Original Message-From: Matt Wolford via CnC-List To: 'Stus-List' Cc: wolford@erie.netSent: Thu, Jan 26, 2023 11:07 amSubject: Stus-List Re: Limber HolesGood suggestion, but I think the holes are lined with copper tubing or something to transport the water.  I could re-construct each limber hole, but I’m hoping for a simpler solution.  From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List  Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2023 11:01 AMTo: Stus-List Cc: Joel Aronson Subject: Stus-List Re: Limber Holes Dremel with a flex shaft to lower the holes? Joel On Thu, Jan 26, 2023 at 10:50 AM Matt Wolford via CnC-List  wrote:Thanks, Chuck.  I’m good about keeping a reasonably dry bilge.  In addition, because I’m at a dock with electricity, I keep a dehumidifier on board as well as fan to constantly circulate air.  I rarely encounter a mold issue.  However, I do have small puddles of sitting water just above the limber holes in concealed areas (below the floorboards).  If water doesn’t drain through the limber hole, it never reaches the bilge.  That’s the problem I’m trying to solve.  From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER  Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2023 10:10 AMTo: Stus-List ; Ronald B. Frerker Cc: Martin DeYoung ; wolford@erie.netSubject: Limber Holes The limber holes on my boat have the same problem.    They probably couldn't make the holes any lower because the drill body drill chuck would hit the floor before the drill bit.   I found a clean bilge makes the boat smell fresh, so I wet/vac the bilge periodically to stay ahead of problems.  I keep a small 5gallon wet/vac in a dockbox and do this every few months and it makes a big difference, reducing bilge odor and mold in the cabin, takes less than twenty minutes.  FWIW, Here's a video showing how another owner added slope to improve drainage in a chainlocker. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CqAf1gIK9r0  Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis  On 01/26/2023 8:56 AM Matt Wolford via CnC-List  wrote:   Martin: Question for a fellow Bruckmann “stick” boat owner (or anyone else with a suggestion): when Bruckmann built boats, limber holes were installed in most of the needed locations.  However, the bottoms of the limber holes are rarely flush with the area being drained.  As a result: a) water accumulates uphill of the 

Stus-List Re: Minimum list of Tools to be kept onboard a boat

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

This is a great topic and I've seen several lists on this site, so check the archives. BUT something I find that absolutely required is to collect several of those dessicant pouches found in all kinds of shipping packages and throw them in yhe tool bagRUST deterrents.I keep them in my tool drawers and all of my tool bags..I hate working with rusty tools.Ron C. On Nov 9, 2022 1:33 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  wrote:

  
   I've been helping a friend get his sailboat together and it's his first boat and he never has the right handtools, so I bring my own toolbag.  I wonder if anyone ever put together a list of hand tools to be kept on the boat that I could share with him. 
   
  
  
   
  
  
   I also need to remove some unnecessary tools as the bag has gotten heavier over time.
  
  
   
  
  
   Thanks in advance,
  
  
   Chuck S
  
 

Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

John, I agree with Bill…….someone knows how to get that lid off.  You are not 
going to like the cost of replacement. Hatchmasters in Norwich CT rebuilt mine 
12 years ago and that worked for a time, but this past year, the hinge casting 
simply broke off and I replaced both cabin and forward hatches.  We didn’t find 
any standard sizes that would fit so my shop measured in detail and we had 
Bomar make them both.  The foredeck one was originally a Bomar but the cabin 
roof one was an Atkins and Hoyle.  

 

The end result is that they fit perfectly and look great.  The price, however, 
was over $10K……..so if possible, talk to Hatchmasters and see if they can 
advise you on how to remove that lid.   

 

Or search the salvage market here in Floridasome other 34 is certainly 
available for parting out.

 

Good luck,

Ron C.

Impromptu

C 38MKIIC…..’77

 

From: John Read via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, November 7, 2022 9:33 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: John Read 
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

 

Stainless rod is welded to frame by years of corrosion.  Tried to remove heat 
etc  no luck

 

John Read

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2022 8:55 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

 

My first thought is, why do you have to remove the hatch frame itself? If it's 
attached that well, can't you just leave it there and remove the lid and have a 
new lens put in, and put new gasket in?

Bill Coleman 

 

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 07:58 John Read via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

After 40 years, it is time to rebuild my forward main hatch.  Issue is it is 
bedded to hull with 3M 4200.  Any suggestions on how to break that seal?

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I 170%

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

So, to add to the discussion………When I bought my 1977 38MKII, it came with 
several original 1977 sails, and a couple of them were 170 Genoas.  I also had 
in the files, the original IOR certificate claiming the 170 as one of the 
sails.  The owner (In Chicago) took a penalty for using the 170 and then offset 
it by lowering the main Iuff dimension by about 4-5 ft.  No kidding, an 
aluminum slug driven up into the sail slot of the mast.  Very creative C 
owners of that day.  This boat did a couple of MAC races before returning it to 
C

 

So I tried it, that owner also regularly had a crew of 11 on board, and the 
sheet led off of a block at the stern fitting on each side.  Talk about no 
visibility.  I did remove that slug (driving it out with a hammer and chisel) 
and then installed the Tides Marine track and never looked back.

 

As for the sails, I gave them to Sea Bags in Portland Maine and received a 
couple of nice tote bags in exchange.  Sea Bags has several local shops in 
various cities, and they actually came and picked them up along with a few 
more. 

 

Much of that gear (11 winches) has been removed for a more efficient plan.  We 
should discuss surplus parts, etc. taking up space in my storage unit.  

 

But the 170’s were an interesting set of sails.  The bags said “North Special”, 
 a light and heavier one.

 

Ron C. 

Impromptu

C 38MKIIC  ‘77

#125

 

 

 

 

 

From: David Risch via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, November 3, 2022 9:45 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe ; David Risch 

Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I 170%

 

Great downwind sails on spin pole and sheeted to end of main boom.

 

Otherwise…

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, November 3, 2022 8:52 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Subject: Stus-List C 35 MK I 170%

 

Does anyone still use 170% genoas?

I have two that are old but with very little use. I’ll send them for shipping 
if anyone needs one or both. They are cut as deck-sweepers, if you have furling 
gear it needs to be the kind that comes off.

 

Joe

Coquina

Stus-List Re: anyone try this chafe guard?

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

I've used these guards for a few years..mixed reviews, however.They work well if you can form them over coaming edges. Etc. Without resizing.When I needed to "fit" a piece leading to a winch and cam cleat.I cut it to shape, but the corners keep lifting and THEY ARE VERY SHARP bloody sharp.If you get it set...it does wear very well.Ron C.ImpromptuC 38 MKIIC'77On Oct 1, 2022 9:11 AM, MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List  wrote:I was told by a customer this week that it does not hold up very well.   Nevertheless it looks like something that is worth trying.  Mike BrannonVirginia Lee - 93295C 36 CBVirginia Beach, VAOn Sep 12, 2022, at 4:09 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote:I need 3 chafe guards, what I did was measure the radius it was going on and bought some SS tubing to fit that radius.Then cut it longitudinally in quarters and cleaned  the edges up, & buffed it out. Going to stick it on with 5200,  Just another thought. I think for the anchor, I will glue a piece of urethane where the chain rubs. Chain can make a mess of SS.Bill ColemanEntrada, Erie PAOn Thu, Sep 8, 2022 at 12:11 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  wrote:https://www.nowearguard.com/ It sure looks nice. I am tempted to use it on the bow where the anchor tends to hit the boat.   Joe Della BarbaCoquina C 35 MK IKent Island MD USA 

Stus-List Re: anyone try this chafe guard?

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Joe, I've used it around anywhere rope chafe occurs.cockpit coaming leading lines over edges. Traveller lines, etc. I've cit it to size easilyHOWEVER, see the comment on the raised SHARP edges. It needs hard rolled around the edges to keep the corners from lifting.BUT, it does stop rope chafing and wearing into the fiberglass edges.Ron C.On Sep 8, 2022 12:11 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  wrote:https://www.nowearguard.com/ It sure looks nice. I am tempted to use it on the bow where the anchor tends to hit the boat.   Joe Della BarbaCoquina C 35 MK IKent Island MD USA 

Stus-List Re: C 34 Winch replacement

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

An alternative is to wait out for the regular West Marine or Defender 2 for 1 
sale on winches……….I’m not a fan of replacing old out of date equipment with 
more out of date equipment…….

I replaced my Barient collection on my 38MKII over the years and finally went 
with a 4 speed power winch from Pontos. Pontos was acquired by Karver in 2018 
and they have improved that line since.  I bought mine from Defender and we 
continually are amazed at the speed and power these winches provide.  My 150 
Genoa tacks with 1 crewman releasing and winching on the new side easily.  
Pontos used to have a video of how they worked, I didn’t look for it but the 
winches work just like that video.

 

Added note, all of my Barients are available, but shipping is a costly issue.  
Let me know if you’re interested.

 

Just an alternate suggestion.

 

Ron C

 

 

From: Dean McNeill via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, July 29, 2022 6:46 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dean McNeill 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 34 Winch replacement

 

Thanks Rick! 

 

Very helpful information…. I’ll certainly look into that self-tailing 
conversion kit paired to the 28’s…. Good idea.

 

Dean

 

On Jul 29, 2022, at 4:10 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Dean,

 

There is a Barient Winch catalog available on the L-26 website at Barient 
Catalog (l-36.com)  . You might want to 
save a copy for future reference.

 

Most of the winch equivalency charts I’ve bookmarked over the past 30 years are 
no longer active on the web, But the information in the Barient catalog gives 
some useful information. BTW, L-36 also has a Barient equivalent chart, but it 
only goes as high as the 22 standard winch, but not the 25, 27, 28, 32’s that 
are common on the bigger C

 

For a 34’ boat with approximate sail area of 470 sq ft, the catalog recommends 
a Barient 25 genoa sheet winch for cruisers, or a 27 for racers. As someone 
else has mentioned, the Barient winches used a different numbering system than 
is presently common. The current system is to use the power ratio of the winch 
in the lowest gear as a model number. So a Lewmar 42 2-speed winch has a power 
ration of about 42:1 in low gear.

 

IIRC, that is calculated using a 10” winch handle. (The longer the handle, the 
more mechanical advantage you have. The average person can put about 50 pounds 
of effort on the winch handle when cranking. With a 10” handle, you get (10”- ½ 
the drum diameter) X 50 = inch pounds of torque to power the winch.  An 8” 
winch handle – which I need to use because of obstructions near the primary 
winches – result in about 30% less input power.) 

 

According to the Barient catalog on L-36, the 25 has a power ratio of 44:1 with 
a 10 inch handle. So replacement winches in the new current system would be in 
the 44 range. The Power ratio of the 27 (recommended for racers) is 46:1, so 
that would be an appropriate size range if you are looking for easier tailing, 
or are using an 8” winch handle.

 

BTW, the Barient catalog has a spec listed that they called the “Power 
Advantage Rating”. It is pretty much a measure of how many pounds of tension 
that the winch can put on the sheet when in low gear when cranked by an average 
person. For the 25, it is about 2300 pounds. The 27 is 2900. The 28 is 3450 
even  though the power ratio is lower than for the 27. And the 32 is 3950 
pounds.

 

For what it is worth, if you upgrade to the 28 winches mentioned by a couple of 
the others, a company called Winchmate offers a kit for conversion of the 
standard winch to self-tailing. Cost is about $500 per kit,  so for about $1000 
plus the cost of the 28 standard winches you can upgrade quite a bit. Probably 
for less than a pair of new self-tailing winches is going to cost. That is what 
I plan to do with the 28s and 32s on my 38.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47

la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: Dean McNeill via CnC-List [  
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2022 11:51 PM
To: Stus-List <  cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Dean McNeill <  d...@deanmc.ca>
Subject: Stus-List C 34 Winch replacement

 

Looking to replace the original Barient 25 double speed primary winches on my 
1980 C 34 over the off season with similar sized self-tailing ones. Anyone 
with a similar boat find a good replacement with same or similar mounting holes 
that would save me some work? Really interested in what others have done and 
recommend.

 

Thanks, Dean

 

C 34

BarraWind

Halifax, NS, Canada

 

Stus-List Re: Interior paint

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Matt:  I hate to play the Admiral’s card here, but she will definitely like the 
no sanding, no dust, and no paint smell better than have to do a clean up to 
the entire interior.  Just sayin’   Ron

 

From: Matthew via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 3:16 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Matthew 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Hmmm – just as I was zeroing in on a type of paint.  The vinyl-covered panel 
idea separated by teak molding was my original plan.  Now you have me waffling. 
 

 

From: rjcasciato--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 3:00 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: rjcasci...@comcast.net <mailto:rjcasci...@comcast.net> 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Matt:  

Your first thought might be the best one depending on how handy you are with 
making panels from “door skins”……

 

My 38MKII was custom built in the Bruckman shop in 1977.  They fashioned 
several panels running fore and aft on either side of the center line and 
covered them with an upholstery type vinyl. Then they used Velcro (1977 
version???) around the back edge of each panel and stuck it to the ceiling. 

 

So, 45 years later, that vinyl??? is still intact and still white.   The Velcro 
has now failed on several panels and my project for the summer is to use the 
original panels and recover them with a new version of similar vinyl sourced 
from Marine Surplus, Inc. in Sarasota Florida. If you don’t have the panels 
already, you can make a template from cardboard or contractors’ paper and trace 
the roof outline, around the openings, etc. The stuff comes in 4 x 8 size. My 
ceiling is divided across port to starboard about 4-5’ forward of the 
companionway.  That means that I will have 8 very manageable panels that are 
separated by the teak strip mentioned below and then butted up against each 
other at that lateral dividing line.

 

There will be no sanding, filling, and painting involved.  I will, however, use 
screws instead of Velcro into the original ceiling with screw covers (Lowe’s) 
and be done with it for another 45 years.  

 

If I can find a picture of how it looked with it all up, I will post it.  They 
separated the panels fore and aft with a center strip (2”) of teak, and I have 
two handrails fore and aft on either side of the centerline about 20” apart 
from the centerline.  That gives the ceiling a finished look without looking 
like a big white sheet of vinyl.  

 

As far as the “tired look”, I have also replaced all the countertops with a new 
white laminate, and new sinks.  It certainly freshens up the interior……..

 

It’s an easy way to freshen up the interior, I agree with your admiral. I’m 
giving thought to having one of those “redo your bathroom in one day” folks 
come and give me an estimate on redoing my head compartment……wood certainly 
does not belong in the head Especially after 45 years of service.

 

Have fun with it, good luck and post the results.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C 38MKIIC  ‘77

 

From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 1:50 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Martin DeYoung mailto:martin.deyo...@outlook.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Matt, 

 

I painted Calypso’s fiberglass overhead with Brightside this winter. I prepped 
by removing 40+ years of old paint and primers then faired and sealed with 
epoxy materials. In many places I was fairing over repairs.

 

I used an epoxy based high build primer, several coats as a sealer and 
transition coat. The results were good assuming I throttled back my 
expectations from “the look of the hood on a fancy car” to better than the 
right rear quarter panel of a pickup truck.

Martin DeYoung

Calypso 

1971 C 43

Port Ludlow/Seattle 

 

On Jun 24, 2022, at 6:15 AM, Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Listers:

 

As some of you may have surmised by my recent question about varnish (thanks 
for your responses), the Admiral would like the boat’s interior to look less, 
well, tired.  Our boat is a Custom “stick” boat, so it does not have fiberglass 
liners, headliners, and the like.  The interior ceiling needs some TLC.  I 
thought about covering it with a vinyl fabric (to reduce the military look that 
I personally like), but the Admiral thinks that a fresh coat of white paint 
will suffice.  I’m thinking about Zinnser interior bathroom paint, which is 
marketed as effective against mold and mildew.

 

Thoughts or suggestions?  Thanks in advance.

 

Matt Wolford

C 42 Custom

 

 

Stus-List Re: Interior paint

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Matt:  

Your first thought might be the best one depending on how handy you are with 
making panels from “door skins”……

 

My 38MKII was custom built in the Bruckman shop in 1977.  They fashioned 
several panels running fore and aft on either side of the center line and 
covered them with an upholstery type vinyl. Then they used Velcro (1977 
version???) around the back edge of each panel and stuck it to the ceiling. 

 

So, 45 years later, that vinyl??? is still intact and still white.   The Velcro 
has now failed on several panels and my project for the summer is to use the 
original panels and recover them with a new version of similar vinyl sourced 
from Marine Surplus, Inc. in Sarasota Florida. If you don’t have the panels 
already, you can make a template from cardboard or contractors’ paper and trace 
the roof outline, around the openings, etc. The stuff comes in 4 x 8 size. My 
ceiling is divided across port to starboard about 4-5’ forward of the 
companionway.  That means that I will have 8 very manageable panels that are 
separated by the teak strip mentioned below and then butted up against each 
other at that lateral dividing line.

 

There will be no sanding, filling, and painting involved.  I will, however, use 
screws instead of Velcro into the original ceiling with screw covers (Lowe’s) 
and be done with it for another 45 years.  

 

If I can find a picture of how it looked with it all up, I will post it.  They 
separated the panels fore and aft with a center strip (2”) of teak, and I have 
two handrails fore and aft on either side of the centerline about 20” apart 
from the centerline.  That gives the ceiling a finished look without looking 
like a big white sheet of vinyl.  

 

As far as the “tired look”, I have also replaced all the countertops with a new 
white laminate, and new sinks.  It certainly freshens up the interior……..

 

It’s an easy way to freshen up the interior, I agree with your admiral. I’m 
giving thought to having one of those “redo your bathroom in one day” folks 
come and give me an estimate on redoing my head compartment……wood certainly 
does not belong in the head Especially after 45 years of service.

 

Have fun with it, good luck and post the results.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C 38MKIIC  ‘77

 

From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 1:50 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Martin DeYoung 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Matt, 

 

I painted Calypso’s fiberglass overhead with Brightside this winter. I prepped 
by removing 40+ years of old paint and primers then faired and sealed with 
epoxy materials. In many places I was fairing over repairs.

 

I used an epoxy based high build primer, several coats as a sealer and 
transition coat. The results were good assuming I throttled back my 
expectations from “the look of the hood on a fancy car” to better than the 
right rear quarter panel of a pickup truck.

Martin DeYoung

Calypso 

1971 C 43

Port Ludlow/Seattle 





On Jun 24, 2022, at 6:15 AM, Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Listers:

 

As some of you may have surmised by my recent question about varnish (thanks 
for your responses), the Admiral would like the boat’s interior to look less, 
well, tired.  Our boat is a Custom “stick” boat, so it does not have fiberglass 
liners, headliners, and the like.  The interior ceiling needs some TLC.  I 
thought about covering it with a vinyl fabric (to reduce the military look that 
I personally like), but the Admiral thinks that a fresh coat of white paint 
will suffice.  I’m thinking about Zinnser interior bathroom paint, which is 
marketed as effective against mold and mildew.

 

Thoughts or suggestions?  Thanks in advance.

 

Matt Wolford

C 42 Custom

 

 

Stus-List Re: Genoa sheets catch on shrouds

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Dave:  Are you using an eye splice in the end of the sheet or are you using
a bowline know to make that loop?  I agree with Jeff, I've been making my
own soft shackles for over 5 years and  there has not been one snag on
anything.

 

You mention "a problem over knots"  ?

 

Ron C.

 

From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2022 1:37 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Genoa sheets catch on shrouds

 

Dave,

I am curious how your soft shackle is installed and why that hasn't solved
your problem.  After attaching sheets with a soft shackle a couple years
ago, I have not had a single hangup.

Jeff Laman

81C

Harmony

Ludington, MI

  _  

From: David Knecht via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2022 1:32 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Genoa sheets catch on shrouds 

 

What have people found to be the best way to keep the genoa sheet attachment
from catching on the shrouds during a tack?  I use a dyneema soft shackle to
attach the sheets to the clew, but that has not solved the problem over
knots.  Thanks- Dave 

 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

Stus-List Re: It’s Big George’s 93rd

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Hello JohnKelly...a 38MKII half hull would be nice?  Ron Casciato

-Original Message-
From: Motion Designs Limited via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, June 2, 2022 11:58 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Motion Designs Limited 
Subject: Stus-List It’s Big George’s 93rd

In celebration of George H. Cuthbertson’s 93rd. birthday on June 3rd, here is a 
promo code for 10% off almost everything at:

www.candcyachts.com

GHCBDAY

Please raise a pint to Dad tomorrow, cause as of the 4th, the sail is over

JohnKelly Cuthbertson

www.candcyachts.com
Motion Designs Limited
647 990 7752

Stus-List Re: Unusual C for sale

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

This pump out boat is listed from C composites, in Bristol RI, they are not 
our favorite C group.

 

From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2022 10:40 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Unusual C for sale

 

There is a pumpout boat in Roche Harbor, San Juan Island, WA. It has a big sign 
that says: "We take crap from anyone"

 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

 

 

On Wed, May 11, 2022 at 7:33 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I had no idea they made holding tank pumpout boats, but apparently they did or 
someone made a typo:

 

https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/2002-c$c-pumpout-boat-7322319/ 

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

 

Stus-List Re: 86 boat for sale near me

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

The listing link does say it’s an 86 38MKIII

Great boat, usually a tall mast, with triple spreaders.  

Ron C.

Impromptu

C 38MKIIC, 1977, hull #125

 

From: Donald Kern via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, May 3, 2022 5:37 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Donald Kern 
Subject: Stus-List Re: 86 boat for sale near me

 

This is what I have for her




C 38 Mk3

9
ZCC38009I586

915272 -x

Escape



Don Kern
C 35 Mk2
Bristol, RI

On 5/3/2022 3:10 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List wrote:

I heard about this one from a friend.  It’s at the marina next to my club. 

 

The broker is a dumbass from what I understand and the listing looks wrong too, 
unless there was ever a 1968 MK III 38.But,  from what my friend who lives 
two slips away from her, she’s in great shape.  The owners dad fell I’ll and he 
had to relocate to CA.  So, the price is nice.

 

https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/1986-c$c-mk-iii-8019470/

 

If anyone on the list is interested, I’ll go check her out.

 

Tom Buscaglia 

S/V Alera 

1990 C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660

 





On May 3, 2022, at 9:43 AM, Stu via CnC-List   
 wrote:

 

I have reorganized and retitled some of the articles in the Do It Yourself 
section of the Photo Album.

Included now are a couple of new items from Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 
34R:

Cockpit floor using EVA Foam and Replacing Frameless Windows.  Thanks Chuck.

All of these projects have been sent in from C Owners so they are tried and 
tested.  If you have started or completed a project you would like to share, 
let me know and I'll let you know what I need.

Stu

 

 

 

Stus-List Re: Working on it

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

C custom logoed kitchen/galley cutting boards are now available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards/index.htm

HI Stu:  It might be helpful is you posted the size of the boards.  Ron

-Original Message-
From: stu--- via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2022 11:54 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: s...@snghost.com
Subject: Stus-List Working on it

C custom logoed kitchen/galley cutting boards are now available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards/index.htm

Stus-List Re: C to race - cold weather discussion topic

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

So, Dennis, as you can see already, you may have to narrow (filter) the 
possible choices.  There those of us who would highly recommend one of the Rob 
Ball pre 80 37's or 38's(same hull) and those who favor later Rob Ball 
models..and those who favor the Tartan C models.

A reasonable analysis of the "ratings" for most models will turn up several 
findings.  Most boats do not sail to their ratings unless there is an OCD owner 
who makes sure the boat is absolutely fitted out for racing.  And further, for 
that class.  And e.g., I’m not one who would sail with any crew that sailed 
because of the beer quality..

You will also have to define "Handicap" racing.  If you want to sail "every 
handicap" race..Wednesdays, weekends, etc.  If you pick it too broad, you 
will get beat in one of those categories by a boat (C) specifically fitted 
for that class and conditions.  

And then, there is the Testosterone component.is your crew 
under the age of 40?   Over 65?  Etc.  Has any of them flown an ASYM and won a 
race (without you doing anything else but driving?)  Is one of your crew (or 
can you get) a sailmaker on board?  Will you turn over all the other crew jobs 
to the crew and only drive?  Or get a driver if you aren't the top choice? 

Then check race results for the C winning boats.. in general, 
there are not many of them that win on a regular basis.  But those that do, 
have figured out the best assortment of the above conditions.

Then I would check in on your local racing venue handicap "allowances".  E.g. 
Racing or Cruising only?? Usually, +6 seconds for JAM vs Spinnaker.
Declare NO spinnaker pole+9 seconds
Above deck roller furling.+6 seconds (recreational adjustment for JAM) 
Working above deck furling is a condition of the JAM rating.

I may find an example of one of the best choices.but I'll have to do 
some records review.  I will report later this week with any results.

Best,

Ron C.





 





-Original Message-
From: John McCrea via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2021 5:41 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: C to race - cold weather discussion topic

C 115 all day long. I love the older Rob Ball LATE 80's 37 and 34 XL/ R's but 
they could never match their ratings. Having owned one! 1989 37XL. 

-Original Message-
From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2021 4:42 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C to race - cold weather discussion topic

Dennis,
So many variables.  Location, prevailing conditions, local coastal or offshore 
events.
I would probably lean towards a 34R with new sails including an Assym and 
Symmetrical Chute, a baby smooth bottom job, and really good beer so I could 
attract the best possible crew.  And let someone really good drive because I am 
terrible driving upwind.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic 
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 29, 2021, at 3:58 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> If one was to buy a C to totally trick out for handicap racing, which model 
> would you buy and why?
> 
> What modifications would you make if you had a bunch of boat bucks?
> 
> !!!  Don't forget to trim your responses if this thread builds.  !!!
> 
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Whisker pole with a 37/40+?

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Bruce, 

 

You really want to rethink this whole topic before doing anything.  I have the 
same boat (“Impromptu” C 38MKIIC build in the Bruckman shop) that Rick has 
only hull #125.  It also came with lots of sail handling gear like the dual 
bayonet track car, and the dual bayonet spinnaker poles and the reaching strut 
as well.  All of that has been shelved like Rick’s and in today’s view this 
gear is likely obsolete.  I’ve removed all of those deck winches and pole 
devices and now only use a carbon fiber whisker pole that mounts inboard to the 
sliding track car with a loop.  The pole mounts into stanchion mounts on the 
port side of the foredeck when not being used.  Being carbon fiber, it can be 
handled on deck with minimal crew.  

 

All of the previous comments amount to a consensus that you do not want to use 
that ring under the gooseneck………..and that you do not want to underestimate the 
loads on the pole or mast when using any spinnaker system.  Things happen fast 
and are usually bad.  

 

We race Impromptu almost exclusively………..I just donated the original spinnakers 
to Sea Bags, and we only use 1 ASYM as the off wind sail other than our #1 
genoa.  We NEVER use the pole with the ASYM.  The pole is only useful on light 
wind days with the #1 to keep the sail out and not drooping.  

 

An interesting rating perspective..here in NE, if you do not declare a 
spinnaker pole, you are credited with 9 seconds.  If we race PHRF, our cruising 
rating is 132……..our racing rating is 129……it almost NEVER makes sense to go 
“Racing” the 3 seconds difference never makes the general confusion and sail 
handling circus worthwhile.  

 

We have recently gone to the ORR-EZ rating system which does not take into 
account poles, etc.  However, the same issue results.  Our rating with a 
spinnaker of any kind means that I have to give e.g. a very fast “tricked out” 
Islander 36, more than 15-20 seconds per milewhen we convert the TOT to 
TOD.  Our Cruising rating almost equals his racing rating………which he always 
uses………..  

 

We’re just getting too old to deal with the skill levels of handling any 
spinnaker.  

 

So, think about what you intend to do with the boat.  And how good your “able” 
crew is in race situations

 

As a base reference, Impromptu races (successfully) with 2 Pontos (now Karver) 
4 speed winches, and 2 Barient roof top winches for halyards and spinnaker 
sheets.  NO babystay, and a clean foredeck. 1 whisker pole (that gets used less 
than 4-5 times per season). A sail selection of a full batten main and 3 
foresails, 155%, 135% and 110%, and 6 crew, average age in the mid 70’s.   

 

If you take the racing situation out of the project, handling any spinnaker in 
any cruising plan still has the earlier and above issues.

 

Keep safety of you and your crew as a priority

 

Have Fun,

 

Ron Casciato

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, November 18, 2021 11:59 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Whisker pole with a 37/40+?

 

Imzadi (an old IOR boat) came with 2 spin halyards, a track and line adjustable 
ring car on the front of the mast, and a ring on either side of the mast for 
use with a reaching strut. Her sail inventory has a 135 genoa (set up with a 
foam luff, for reefing down to about 90% on the furler) and an asymmetrical 
chute tacked to the anchor roller array about 2 feet in front of the headstay.

 

I’ve put the reaching strut and spin pole into storage (available to any lister 
who needs either one in exchange for a donation to Stu and cost of shipping). I 
carry two whisker poles on Imzadi for the headsails. 

 

As others have said, there are pretty high forces on the attachment points when 
using a pole – particularly with the spin when running. So a strong attachment 
point on the mast is needed, and use of the ring at the gooseneck is probably 
contraindicated.

 

But I think you are mistaken in thinking that you will have the pole in contact 
with the rigging. It’s true that the clew of bot the genoa and a-sail will be 
aft of the rigging when reaching, but in any sort of wind the sails will be 
held out by nature and you won’t be using the pole. I use my poles for deep 
reaching and running in light air. So the pole is never more than about 60 
degrees off the bow to hold out the clew of a sail and keep it from collapsing 
in light air – anything above about 8-10 knots of steady wind seems to keep the 
sail drawing without the pole to hold the clew. I use both poles (and both 
sails) to run wing and wing to run essentially dead downwind when cruising.

 

When doing the wing and wing thing, the poles get attached to the rings for the 
reaching strut. The genoa tack point does not change, so the clew can move up 
and down over only a small range. The tack of the a-sail can move up and down 
depending on the wind (as with any spinnaker) but the probable range is 
something like 4 or 

Re: Stus-List New-guy C 40 Shopping questions

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Jeff, did I miss where you are located??And is that where you will be keeping and sailing the boat??Ronrjcasci...@comcast.net Sent from Xfinity Connect Application-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: bride...@gmail.comSent: 2020-07-21 6:31:05 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List New-guy C 40 Shopping questions
Hi Ron,Thanks for the words of caution. We are definitely balancing the size situation and appreciate a 40 will be over 5X larger than our 23 and would love the opportunity to sail on one prior to purchasing if that were an option.I'm selling a 40' diesel motorhome that costs us an arm and a leg in repairs and maintenance (~$5000 in just the past few weeks) in exchange for this "money pit" but would be very interested in what your annual cost may have been. I've been building a spreadsheet to estimate annual costs especially now that we will be paying for a slip. Thanks,JeffOn Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 10:11 PM rjcasciato--- via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:Hello Jeffrey..first, welcome to the listmost of us on the C list will keep  our boats to the "end", unless we're upgrading to a larger CI own a 77' 38MKII, hull #125. I've owned Impromptu for 23 yearsYour decision to get into a big "old" boat needs careful assessment of your finances and the amount of work you are willing to do.virtually none of us here don't work to keep our boats sailing like they were built...You don't want to know how much money  that chews up in 23 years...BUT, IMPROMPTU LOOKS LIKE IT JUST CAME OUT OF THE MOLD YESTERDAYand sails way better than it did when it left Canada for Chicago in 1977.My wife doesn't do wind, sun, and noiseSo this 38 MKII raceshard and well with a seasoned crew of 6.I don't suggest you think about that until later when you have enough crewSpeaking of crew.are you planning to sail the 40 with only you and your wife Things are much bigger on a 40 than on an ODay 23.the mast alone approaches twice the height.I would be glad to share some of the "annual base costs" for you to considerMy opinion is that the 35 should be big enough for this next moveand cruisable in "nice" weather for twoI'd be interested in some of the veteran C'ers opinion and what are some of the comparative issues of making this big jump.Something to consider..the guy who designed my 38 and all of those 40's, and all of the rest of the good years C's drives a 34..think about that firstMaking a move away from the ODay is a no brainer.just you and your wife sail a 40 firstwith safety crew sitting by. Again, welcome to this group.we all love our C's.Ron C.IMPROMPTUC 38MKIIC1977#125Sent from Xfinity Connect Application-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: bride...@gmail.comSent: 2020-07-20 5:38:36 PM Subject: Stus-List New-guy C 40 Shopping questions
Allow me to first apologize for any ignorance we may suffer before I introduce our situation. I've been sailing all sorts of small craft for 35+ years but this will be our first adventure in something no-longer trailerable.  I and my wife are shopping for an upgrade in size from our O'Day 23-2 and are attracted to the C line of boats given our budget, the perceived quality, performance/comfort reputation, and availability in the local market. We started eyeing a 35-3 in VT (and may still consider it) but after looking at a few 35' boats locally we are realizing they may still be a bit small for our rapidly growing family of four (and trucking and bottom painting a boat from VT to NH/ME seacoast adds a lot of costs), we have started looking at some C 40 boats in MA/RI  area. I'm not afraid of some small projects that can be carried out while we use it or in the offseason but not interested in a "project boat"  that would need work to be safe before use.https://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_detail.jsp?slim=broker_id=3558367_boats=3558367=MattapoisettYachtSales&==Feet=Public_id=81236="">https://www.boattrader.com/boat/1981-c-c-tall-rig-7442829/Now for the questions:We have scheduled the two 40's above for a visit next weekend, one we saw in the boatyard without invitation this weekend. They are both on the hard, and the one we briefly visited is a centerboard version. The other is a tall-rig/deep-keel.  See the photos linked.https://photos.app.goo.gl/7xUVbSnHMob2YmYP81. On this boat, what is the drain in the keel for? Is it a bilge drain or a centerboard trunk vent? There was something, perhaps a piece of wood, loose inside the drain that I could move with a finger.  2. On cabin top starboard, there appears to be a wire cable winch that I've not seen on other examples. Is this the centerboard pendant perhaps? 3. Is the weeping from the centerboard pivot access ports reasonable or expected. It may be lubricant as the broker suggests i

Re: Stus-List New-guy C 40 Shopping questions

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Hello Jeffrey..first, welcome to the listmost of us on the C list will keep  our boats to the "end", unless we're upgrading to a larger CI own a 77' 38MKII, hull #125. I've owned Impromptu for 23 yearsYour decision to get into a big "old" boat needs careful assessment of your finances and the amount of work you are willing to do.virtually none of us here don't work to keep our boats sailing like they were built...You don't want to know how much money  that chews up in 23 years...BUT, IMPROMPTU LOOKS LIKE IT JUST CAME OUT OF THE MOLD YESTERDAYand sails way better than it did when it left Canada for Chicago in 1977.My wife doesn't do wind, sun, and noiseSo this 38 MKII raceshard and well with a seasoned crew of 6.I don't suggest you think about that until later when you have enough crewSpeaking of crew.are you planning to sail the 40 with only you and your wife Things are much bigger on a 40 than on an ODay 23.the mast alone approaches twice the height.I would be glad to share some of the "annual base costs" for you to considerMy opinion is that the 35 should be big enough for this next moveand cruisable in "nice" weather for twoI'd be interested in some of the veteran C'ers opinion and what are some of the comparative issues of making this big jump.Something to consider..the guy who designed my 38 and all of those 40's, and all of the rest of the good years C's drives a 34..think about that firstMaking a move away from the ODay is a no brainer.just you and your wife sail a 40 firstwith safety crew sitting by. Again, welcome to this group.we all love our C's.Ron C.IMPROMPTUC 38MKIIC1977#125Sent from Xfinity Connect Application-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: bride...@gmail.comSent: 2020-07-20 5:38:36 PM Subject: Stus-List New-guy C 40 Shopping questions
Allow me to first apologize for any ignorance we may suffer before I introduce our situation. I've been sailing all sorts of small craft for 35+ years but this will be our first adventure in something no-longer trailerable.  I and my wife are shopping for an upgrade in size from our O'Day 23-2 and are attracted to the C line of boats given our budget, the perceived quality, performance/comfort reputation, and availability in the local market. We started eyeing a 35-3 in VT (and may still consider it) but after looking at a few 35' boats locally we are realizing they may still be a bit small for our rapidly growing family of four (and trucking and bottom painting a boat from VT to NH/ME seacoast adds a lot of costs), we have started looking at some C 40 boats in MA/RI  area. I'm not afraid of some small projects that can be carried out while we use it or in the offseason but not interested in a "project boat"  that would need work to be safe before use.https://www.boattrader.com/boat/1981-c-c-tall-rig-7442829/Now for the questions:We have scheduled the two 40's above for a visit next weekend, one we saw in the boatyard without invitation this weekend. They are both on the hard, and the one we briefly visited is a centerboard version. The other is a tall-rig/deep-keel.  See the photos linked.https://photos.app.goo.gl/7xUVbSnHMob2YmYP81. On this boat, what is the drain in the keel for? Is it a bilge drain or a centerboard trunk vent? There was something, perhaps a piece of wood, loose inside the drain that I could move with a finger.  2. On cabin top starboard, there appears to be a wire cable winch that I've not seen on other examples. Is this the centerboard pendant perhaps? 3. Is the weeping from the centerboard pivot access ports reasonable or expected. It may be lubricant as the broker suggests it was somewhat recently serviced. Notes: The "smile" needs addressing but seems dry. Depth and knot log sensors have been painted over with antifoul despite being listed in the description as features. Gelcoat seems good for its age.We are leaning towards the centerboard model as the Marina we are targeting in Portland, ME has limited areas of draft to accommodate a 7.5' keel at low tide. However, fewer moving parts is a huge advantage as is better sailing performance. But, we might be forced into a less desirable marina or have a low tide +/- 1hr time block for coming or going from the marina.Last general question and ask for advice, what is the mast step situation on either of these boats and apart from waterlogged cores in the deck and hull, what are the critical points of interest to a new buyer that thinks he is somewhat savvy. All polite thoughts welcomed. Best regards,Jeff

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Thanks 

Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Matthew, I would give Hatchmasters a call, they do amazing repairs and reglazing on all brands.I would be surprised if they didn't have the part you're looking for.Tony used to be the sales guy; they are in Norwalk CT.Ron C.Sent from Xfinity Connect Application-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: m...@blackhammer.comSent: 2020-05-04 11:31:29 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII
I was liking the idea of Lewmar. And I think the low profiles look great but I don’t see access from top side which the fore-deck guys likes to have to get spinnakers in and out easily without having to go below. When you say easy drop in on Lewmars, I assume I would need to rip out and replace the frame that attaches to the deck. I was thinking of trying to just change out the hatch first. A friend told me of his troubles trying to get the frame off the deck. If it’s a direct replacement the hinges would match? I don’t think I can do that with a Lewmar based on the diagrams I saw. My issue is the hatch itself, I suspect no water is coming in from the bottom frame.I have a couple of emails into Atkins and Hoyle though I have not heard back yet. I’ll keep on them.Again thanks to all. The collective wisdom is amazing.MOn Apr 28, 2020, at 2:19 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  wrote:I replaced all the hatches on the boat with Lewmars. Saloon hatch and forward hatch were drop-in replacements, the head hatch took a bit of glass work but works fine.Jim WattsParadigm ShiftC 35 Mk IIIVictoria, BCOn Mon, 27 Apr 2020 at 06:15, Paul Fountain via CnC-List  wrote:







Our 77 C had an Aitkens hatch, much better than the Bomar hatches on our 85 33-ll, which have been replaced with Lewmar Ocean series hatches. The angle of the forward hatch made the low profile hatches impractical, and the raised Fiberglas
 either side made them unattractive.


I’d rate the A and Lewmar Ocean series comparable .



Paul




From: CnC-List  on behalf of Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 8:33:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII
 



That is a handsome looking hatch.
How do you compare the overall quality compared to Atkins & Hoyle or Lewmar? Bill Coleman 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Graham Collins via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2020 9:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Graham Collins
Subject: Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII

 Hi MatthewAtkins & Hoyle make the direct replacement, but there is an alternative - I put on a low profile stainless hatch from these guys. 
http://www.manshipmarine.com/low-profile-deck-hatch.html 

I'll look to see if I have any pics.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11
On 2020-04-26 10:12 p.m., Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List wrote:


Hello CnC list,
 
I was wondering if anyone knew exactly what kind and where I can find a replacement for my forward hatch on a 1983 C 35 mkIII.
 
I am hoping I can just get a new hatch and use the existing frame, though I assume it comes with a new frame as well just in case.
 
I measured the outer dimensions of the flanges on the frame at 20 7/8” square, the outer dimensions of the hatch at ~21 13/16 square, and the inner distance between the hinges on the hatch at 14 1/16”.
 
I thought this would use a Lewmar replacement but the dimensions don’t seem to match.
 
Thanks in advance.
This list is great, I wish I had more time to read it.
 
Matthew Schlanger
The Office
1983 C 35 mkIII
Nyack NY
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If 

Re: Stus-List Garboard plug

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Josh, I have the 1" version as seen in several other emailsit is located at the very bottom of the bilge sump. (C 38MKII) It was installed about 10 years ago. The location was carefully sited and drilled from the outside.the hole actually sits a quarter inch below the bilge floor.The brass plate is recessed into the hull to be flush with the hull. We smear a small amount of marine underwater fairing cpd. for the summer of racing.When she gets set up on the hard for the winterwe slightly tilt the boat to port and insert a PVC threaded fitting with an angled piece of pipe to carry water away from the hull.This installation has required NO maintenance and is sealed completelyno chance for water intrusion unless we forget to put the plug in in the spring. You won't be sorry and that's 1more thing you don't have to worry about over the winter.Impromptu is located in the Boston area and winters here are usually wet and cold..I'm getting too old to safely climb a 12' ladder in the freezing weather to check the bilge.Best Ron Casciato Sent from Xfinity Connect Application-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: muckl...@gmail.comSent: 2020-01-10 2:46:34 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Garboard plug
My only concern to doing this is the same concern I have with any hull penetration - one more hole to inadvertently let water in.Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+Solomons, MDOn Fri, Jan 10, 2020, 10:51 AM Len Mitchell via CnC-List  wrote:Our bilge is shallow but not as shallow as a KCB model. I would install it low in the keel stub. It would be best as low as you can and mine may be 1/4-1/2 inch off the bottom and it works fine. I would normally vacuum and sponge out the bilge whenever it was above freezing but that was difficult to plan with a normal work schedule. I installed it with epoxy and faired the garboard drain so you would have to look hard to see it. I suppose you could use 5200 but I don’t like using it.  I had epoxy cure (temperature) issues so it isn’t as smooth as it will be next April. I bought a nylon plug and kept the bronze plug as a spare. There is no downside to this project and that’s why I should have done it 20 years ago on our 1981 36 KCB too. Hopefully you can open the Dropbox photos. If not let me know. Len https://www.dropbox.com/s/5gwyjrpy2ee8xgo/Photo%202019-05-03%2C%204%2001%2020%20PM.jpg?dl=0Sent from my iPad___

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Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Hi Edd:  Here’s my info:

 

Ron Casciato…..Impromptu…..C 38MKII…..1977…. Hull #125……. Sail number 6013……. 
rjcasci...@comcast.net   …….  Hingham, MA

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Edd Schillay via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 3, 2019 4:52 PM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

 

Listers,

 

In my spare time, I’m going to start working on an email list / bulletin board 
/ photo archive / information center website for C Owners, that will act as a 
supplement and perhaps one day, only when Stu says he’s no longer interested in 
continuing on, act as a replacement to the service we are using now.

 

I’d like to start compiling a database of C Owners. When you have a moment, 
please respond to this email (either to the whole list or by direct email to 
me) with the following information:

 

Name / Boat name / C Model / C Year / Sail number / Email Address / Home 
Port

 

For example:

Edd Schillay / Starship Enterprise / C 37/40+ / 1990 / NCC-1701-B /  
 e...@schillay.com / Venice Island, FL

 

Thanks to all. 

 

And for those of you up north who are reviewing/signing their winter haul-out 
and storage contracts, I can now say, “Nah, Nah. Na-Na Nah!"

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Captain of the Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL 

 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log   

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Re: Stus-List Dow Corning 795

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Hatchmasters uses 795why would you change?
Ron C.


Sent from Xfinity Connect Application

-Original Message-

From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: aussiebr...@gmail.com
Sent: 2019-07-26 5:24:30 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Dow Corning 795

Has anyone use an alternative to 795 for the plexiglass seal?

Bill Dakin

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Re: Stus-List PHRF vs ORR-EZ

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

HI Richard……….I used to have his email address, I’ll look it up and let you 
know.Mark’s a good guy, his 37 is about an 82 or 84 vintage……….

He sails well, but doesn’t complete many of the series so he’s at a 
disadvantage when it comes to race results.  

Stay tuned:

 

Ron

 

If you’re going to get serious about racing in series races There are only 
a few “rules”………..take everything off the boat that you won’t use for the race. 
 Weight is your enemy. You don’t need all those winches……..even for cruising, 
I’ll send you a picture or two of my boat……… take only the sails you are going 
to use for the race……….all the others stay on the dock.

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Richard Bush via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2019 3:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush 
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF vs ORR-EZ

 

Ron, I am replying off-list because I have a question of limited interest; I 
noted that there is a 37 in your class... Mark Buckler(?); is he connected to 
the list? if not, I'd like to get info about his boat, as I have a 37 also; if 
he's amenable, have he email me directly with his contact info; thanks

 

PS: contracts on all the bullitts!

Richard

s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River;

Richard N. Bush 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: rjcasciato--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: rjcasciato mailto:rjcasci...@comcast.net> >
Sent: Mon, Jun 10, 2019 3:29 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF vs ORR-EZ

Dennis and Randy:

In Mass Bay, we're into our 2nd year with ORR-EZ.  What you want to do is get 
to the ORR-EZ web site and look over the certificate forms and what's needed to 
rate  your boat.other than "supposedly measuring sails", the process is 
relatively simple

You wind up with a rating certificate that has essentially 6 separate ratings 
dependent on course configuration and wind.  AND whether you are sailing with a 
spinnaker or not...
This  year they added a destination rating (point to point) as well as the W/L 
courses and the Random leg courses, which is what we usually sail.

Don't get put off with the number of ratings...I found that  we used 
the same rating most of last summer...

The ratings are also provided for two types of scoringTime on 
Distance, and Time on Time...in Mass Bay, we have been using TOT for 
years.the TOD has to many variables when you have to sail around 
islands and such.

So, as an example...my 38MKII used to rate 129 Racing and 132 Cruising 
in PHRF.  There was a 6 second "recreational handicap" bonus if you used a 
working jib furler above deck...
Typical of PHRF, there were other nuances that you could maneuver to advantage 
or not...Declare no spinnaker pole and get 9 seconds...e.g.

ORR-EZ has none of that stuff...it's basically a boat measurement, some 
weight measurements, and several sail measurements...they rate your 
largest sail area 

Impromptu's 2019 ratings are:  wind at very light, light, medium, 
heavy...0.382, 0.603, 0.799, 0.919  Spinnaker
  0.362, 0.577, 0.777, 0.904 
non-spinnaker.

So, all that matters is the elapsed time you sail the course in.  You take that 
elapsed time and multiply it by the factor for that race...that 
produces your corrected timeand that then compares to the other boats 
in the fleet to determine the winner..

We're spoiled here in New England for scoring..there is a system called 
Regattaman that was developed by a couple of our local guys several years ago 
and that system has been adopted widely.  They set up the course on the 
committee boat, start the race and record the finish time for each 
boatall that happens live and by the time we get back to the dock, 
the results are up with all that calculation completed and boats scored where 
they placed.

If you're interested, you might log onto Regattaman.com and go to the calendar 
page.  That page shows all the racing in our region that is going on this year. 
 You can scroll down to the Spring Series Hingham Bay ORREZ (May 15th or so) 
and see that we've sailed 4 races so far in the series, the last one will be on 
the 19th...when you click on results, you'll see the score sheet by 
class.  We sail 3 classes.

It's not uncommon for us to get over 20 boats in 3 classes on the course for 
the Wednesday series.

I hope you find this useful, let me know if you need addition info.

Best,

Ron C.
Impromptu
C 38MKII
Hull #125, 1977





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Randy Stafford via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2019 2:33 PM
To: cnc-list mailto

Re: Stus-List PHRF vs ORR-EZ

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Dennis and Randy:

In Mass Bay, we're into our 2nd year with ORR-EZ.  What you want to do is get 
to the ORR-EZ web site and look over the certificate forms and what's needed to 
rate  your boat.other than "supposedly measuring sails", the process is 
relatively simple

You wind up with a rating certificate that has essentially 6 separate ratings 
dependent on course configuration and wind.  AND whether you are sailing with a 
spinnaker or not...
This  year they added a destination rating (point to point) as well as the W/L 
courses and the Random leg courses, which is what we usually sail.

Don't get put off with the number of ratings...I found that  we used 
the same rating most of last summer...

The ratings are also provided for two types of scoringTime on 
Distance, and Time on Time...in Mass Bay, we have been using TOT for 
years.the TOD has to many variables when you have to sail around 
islands and such.

So, as an example...my 38MKII used to rate 129 Racing and 132 Cruising 
in PHRF.  There was a 6 second "recreational handicap" bonus if you used a 
working jib furler above deck...
Typical of PHRF, there were other nuances that you could maneuver to advantage 
or not...Declare no spinnaker pole and get 9 seconds...e.g.

ORR-EZ has none of that stuff...it's basically a boat measurement, some 
weight measurements, and several sail measurements...they rate your 
largest sail area 

Impromptu's 2019 ratings are:  wind at very light, light, medium, 
heavy...0.382, 0.603, 0.799, 0.919  Spinnaker

  0.362, 0.577, 0.777, 0.904 non-spinnaker.

So, all that matters is the elapsed time you sail the course in.  You take that 
elapsed time and multiply it by the factor for that race...that 
produces your corrected timeand that then compares to the other boats 
in the fleet to determine the winner..

We're spoiled here in New England for scoring..there is a system called 
Regattaman that was developed by a couple of our local guys several years ago 
and that system has been adopted widely.  They set up the course on the 
committee boat, start the race and record the finish time for each 
boatall that happens live and by the time we get back to the dock, 
the results are up with all that calculation completed and boats scored where 
they placed.

If you're interested, you might log onto Regattaman.com and go to the calendar 
page.  That page shows all the racing in our region that is going on this year. 
 You can scroll down to the Spring Series Hingham Bay ORREZ (May 15th or so) 
and see that we've sailed 4 races so far in the series, the last one will be on 
the 19th...when you click on results, you'll see the score sheet by 
class.  We sail 3 classes.

It's not uncommon for us to get over 20 boats in 3 classes on the course for 
the Wednesday series.

I hope you find this useful, let me know if you need addition info.

Best,

Ron C.
Impromptu
C 38MKII
Hull #125, 1977




 
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Randy Stafford via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2019 2:33 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Randy Stafford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF vs ORR-EZ

Hi Dennis,

No experience with ORR-EZ yet, but it looks like another good option by which 
to score mixed fleet races (i.e. not one-design fleet races).

Last year Colorado Sail & Yacht Club experimented with National Handicap for 
Cruisers (see https://www.rya.org.uk/racing/pages/nhc.aspx).  We still used 
PHRF as the official scoring system, but also scored the same races by NHC to 
see the outcome of applying a different scoring system to the same race 
results.  We could do the same with ORR-EZ.

The proponents of this idea were looking for a scoring system that is more 
“fair” than PHRF.  I liken NHC to golf handicapping: your handicap changes with 
every scorecard you turn in, conceptually.  So it dynamically reflects 
variability in weather conditions and crew performance, which a static PHRF 
rating doesn’t.  ORR-EZ appears to have some similar elements (observed 
performance factor, configurablity per race course, etc.) which in my opinion 
are valuable.

With a 30 MK I my results in my fleet are generally dependent on wind strength. 
 The stronger the wind, the better I place, all other things being equal.  In 
light air boats with less displacement beat me.  It’s almost as if boats should 
have different ratings for different wind speed ranges. 

On a related note, my RSA is re-rating all boats in its region this year, and 
Grenadine’s PHRF rating is likely to come out 12 seconds lower.  But at least 
one of my competitor’s ratings will stay the same - which exacerbates the above 
problem, unless we have a really windy season.  I think I’ll start a separate 
thread on 30 MK I 

Re: Stus-List Another C Win !

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

John:  Good job,  so what is your PHRF rating? And do any of the other boats 
fly spinnakers or ASYMs??  Here in New England, Mass Bay Sailing gave up on 
PHRF and now has ORR_EZ as the handicap system.  Most of us think it’s a fairer 
rule, but we’ll see, we’re in the second year of getting used to it.  

 

Best,

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C 38MKII, 77’ vintage.

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of John Conklin via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2019 8:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Conklin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Another C Win !

 

Thanks Richard,

I Just removed  the Dodger and Bimini, and I do have bottom cleaned ever 2 MO! 
Will Probably remove 100’ of 5/16 chain and 9.9 LEHR outboard for next PHRF 
Race, but really not required we were a good 6 -10 min ahead of those guys on a 
7.5 NM course   Last PHRF we came in first even correct against a 228 rating !

 

John C

S/V Halcyon

 

  _  

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > on behalf of Richard Bush via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Sunday, June 9, 2019 3:12:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Richard Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List Another C Win ! 

 

John, good for you! What have you done in prepping the boat for racing? Do you 
strip the canvas-dodger, bimini, etc..? what about anchors and chain? 

 

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4 

Richard N. Bush 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: John Conklin via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: John Conklin mailto:jconk...@hotmail.com> >
Sent: Sun, Jun 9, 2019 1:47 pm
Subject: Stus-List Another C Win !

This racing rookie is so proud to be the owner of this classic C !  This is # 
3  

Yes, a good crew is key for sure, but this 1982,  37 is quick !In this race 
most boats were not an issue, but we were up against a 1989 Tartan 37, 1979 
Tartan 36 and a really nice newer model Beneteau 37 

Even correct Halcyon  Smoked Em by many minutes !  

I am hooked for sure!! And various  races  arescheduled for the next 3 weekends 
! Ye Ha!!

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KgVge7U5ydtM-hhiOiekTWVx8ajUEJFc/view?usp=sharing

 

John C

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Cleaning epoxy off cabin liner

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Shawn,I get the feeling that you are using this list of owners to support your rationalization that you already made to buy this boatRemember, if anything goes wrong,  you can't use us to spread the blame...My position has always been that you should spend your time looking for something elseJust bite the bullet and walk away from this one..if your time to repair is as under estimated as your cost to repairthis is not going to go well.E.g. rewiring my 38MKII 5 years ago...new panel, charger inverter, rerouting wiring, and bringing the standards up to ABYC levels was was a $7500 adventure..So to be clearit's sailing seasonfind another boat.Ron C.Sent from Xfinity Connect Application-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: shawngwri...@gmail.comSent: 2019-04-27 10:53:42 PM Subject: Stus-List Cleaning epoxy off cabin linerHi,The 35-2 we're still waffling on (!) has many holes in the ceiling liner, and some have been filled with what appears to be epoxy, leaving a yellowish residue around the hole. Is there any safe was to clean epoxy residue off gelcoat without damaging it? One of the things that gives me concern about this boat is the sheer number of holes drilled everywhere, in both the teak and the liner. Some are done well, some not. Nearly every teak panel has some kind of flaw, so the sheer amount of work to clean it all up keeps dropping the boat into "project" category, even though pretty much everything works, aside from a few lights.Aside from the amount of time I would spend fixing these things, I can't help feeling that a project 35-2 should cost less than $22K CAD. But maybe I'm wrong. I know the seller things it is worth this much because of the upgrades, but the fact is most of these things are 15+ years old, giving them little real value, since they could fail any day. A few things it doesn't have, that I would like to add (I think) are a boom vang, move mainsheet to the traveller, and lead halyard and reefling lines aft. These are going to cost a bit, and many other boats already have these things done.Of course, the electrical is a whole other can of worms, and will cost me at least $500 - 1000 to resolve depending on where I make a panel and use blade fuses+switches, or go with a bluesea breaker panel.So when I add these things up, I figure $18K is a more reasonable price for the boat, and that's still ignoring the franken-engine watermaker setup. Or the homemade solar arch with amateur SS welding.Oh, and I took a hose and sprayed the boat down today after the wind finally eased a bit, forcing water all along the hull-deck joint, windows, etc. No issues at hull-deck joint or chainplates, but two windows leak, in addition to the forward hatch I knew about, and two of the dorades also leak. Not a lot, but I also didn't hold the hose on it that long.Maybe we'll just buy it, sail it and see how it goes. Maybe I'll flip a coin. I don't know...-- Shawn Wrightshawngwri...@gmail.com


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Re: Stus-List Garboard plug 37/40 update.

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

A handy tip..choose the garboard plug size so that you can thread a PVC male fitting into  the hole for the winterthen make an elbow that fits the male fitting and water will be directed away from the hull all winter.Do the reverse before launching in the spring.Of course, if you are in the water all yearsimply disregard this suggestion...Ron C.Sent from Xfinity Connect Application-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: muckl...@gmail.comSent: 2019-04-26 6:24:15 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Garboard plug 37/40 update.Pictures?Josh On Fri, Apr 26, 2019, 6:12 PM Len Mitchell via CnC-List  wrote:Magnets worked perfectly to locate the hole and drill from outside. Thanks for the suggestion Eric! It is mounted in the bottom of the bilge flush with the keel stub and looks great. Len

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Re: Stus-List C 35-2 concerns

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Shawn, I agree with Bruce..Let this one goIf you're retired, then you are already operating on "Life Minutes "Don't spend them of stuff like thisRonImpromptuC 38 MKII1977.My boat looks and races like it just came out of the mold.you don't want to know how much time and money that takes. Sent from Xfinity Connect Application-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: bwhitm...@sbcglobal.netSent: 2019-04-24 7:24:48 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List C 35-2 concernsHi Shawn,Realistically,  I think you should walk away  from that boat.  There are just too many owner modifications that have not been done by someone who knows what they are doing in a marine environment.  Consider finding the right boat, even at a distance in the right condition at the right price, even if you have to have it trucked to you.  You'll end up spending the equivalent cost to move the boat just getting this one in proper shape, and  you'll avoid a lot of heartburn.When we bought our boat, we knew that the fresh water, propane, and charging system all had issues, the sail covers desperately needed to be replaced, and while kept relatively clean it had basically sat at the dock for years.  However the boat was basically sound, having had a lot of professional upgrades added 8 years earlier.  Two years later, we have a great boat, but our project list has now exceeded 200 individual small projects, we're down to 22 short term and 15 long term (mostly to be done at haulout).  Yet, last weekend I found another where a wire leading out from the battery charger had corroded due to poor installation.  That, in turn is driving me to add a 3rd battery to the house bank while I'm at it...  And, though I enjoy working on my boat, I'm getting a little tired seeing a list with some of the same items still staring at me 24 months in.  There's no way I would intentionally buy a boat that I think might need to be fully rewired.  Good wire and connectors add up more quickly than you think, and that's one of those jobs that will require a LOT gymnastics inside of tight places!Sorry to be the downer here, but you're asking for opinions...Bruce Whitmore 1994 C 37/40+"Astralis "Sent from Samsung tablet.

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Re: Stus-List Thoughts on '77 C 29?

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Thanks Shawn, I get it.you're probably in the right ballpark for you planning ahead.I wish you good luck in the search...BUT GET ANYTHING CLOSE SURVEYEDThere's some rough boats out there in your price rangeSent from Xfinity Connect Application-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: shawngwri...@gmail.comSent: 2019-04-17 9:31:33 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Thoughts on '77 C 29?Hi Ron,Ok, here's the backstory... We started out looking at 27-30' boats, with the hope of finding a C 30-1 based on what I'd read about its stiffness. The first one we found was $25K and although it was in very good condition, we just weren't that impressed, mainly with the interior layout. Gradually I started looking at anything up to about $35K, which has included a lot of boats: Westsail 32, Nicholson 31 & 35 (both very nice boats - should have bought the 35), Alberg 37, Niagara 35, Ericson 29, 30+, 32, 35, Newport 28, 33, C 35-2, 36, 37. Of these, the C 35-2 and Nicholson 35 have impressed me the most. The Nicholson is probably one of 3-4 on the continent, so I don't expect to find another. The C 35-2 seems like a great fit, but I don't expect I'll find another for $25K around here.My wife grew up boating on a 26' wooden powerboat that her Dad built, travelling to Desolation Sound every summer, so she is pretty comfortable on the water, but has only sailed a few times on dinghies - Laser, Sunfish and MacGregor 26. The MacGregor freaks her out because it gives the illusion of a big boat with the stability of a dinghy. She's fine in a Laser... she even hauled prawn traps from one last summer... :)Finally, I am deciding between a "starter boat" around $10K, knowing that we'll still look for the right boat. I don't want to pay much more than $10K for a boat that will only last 1-2 years as the 12% sales tax is then just throwing money away. If we find what seems like a good long term boat for $25K or so, we'll go for it, but so far, that has been an elusive item. Every $25K boat has either been an overpriced $15K boat (like that mint C 30), or a $35-40K boat that needs work. I'm ok with a boat that needs some work, provided I can sail it while doing the work over time (so it needs a decent engine, sails and rigging). After almost a year of this search, I no longer have the time for a project boat.So that's why a $10K boat makes sense to me... Is the 29 is that boat? I don't know...On Wed, Apr 17, 2019 at 6:03 PM rjcasciato--- via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:Shawn.take me behind why a 29 for 10K makes sense for you. For my taste.if your wife is uncomfortable sailingyou want to rethink this.Mine has had only miserable experiences in the 30 years of sailing.All of my early boats were too small.I now have probably the best Rob Ball design ever...I bought a 38MKII for 20k 20 years ago...You should think biggerand when your wife finally stops sailing.you end up with a real race machineJust thinking ahead  RonSent from Xfinity Connect Application-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: johnr...@aol.comSent: 2019-04-17 8:31:35 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Thoughts on '77 C 29?Is this a 29 Mark I or Mark II??



I love my Mark II.  Not tender to me as an old dingy sailor.  Yes, nimble, quick, responsive.




There is another Mark II at my club with a shorter rudder than mine and I understand he does have more problems with broaching. I have raced mine in 40+gusts and won that race under PHRF.  One broach in 7 years when crew did not take the main sheet with him while hiking in order to be ready to release in conditions that might warrant it.




Suddenly went from a north bound boat to a south bound boat. Best broach of my life.  Boat just flipped around and we went on sailing.  No one hurt.




John McLaughlin





-Original Message-
From: Mark A. Watson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Mark A. Watson <m...@watsonandson.com>
Sent: Wed, Apr 17, 2019 2:32 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Thoughts on '77 C 29?





Strangly






I have a C 41 - love it


Hate going in reverse its always a crap shoot. Goes up wind like
  a vacuum cleaner. Best at 25 - 30 degrees


Hull had one small blister at last years haul out. Oh and the
  traditional keel smile.  Great construction and smart above and
  below deck fittings and appointments. 







Not sure what else would be relevant 




  



 

  






Mark Watson 
  

Re: Stus-List Thoughts on '77 C 29?

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Shawn.take me behind why a 29 for 10K makes sense for you. For my taste.if your wife is uncomfortable sailingyou want to rethink this.Mine has had only miserable experiences in the 30 years of sailing.All of my early boats were too small.I now have probably the best Rob Ball design ever...I bought a 38MKII for 20k 20 years ago...You should think biggerand when your wife finally stops sailing.you end up with a real race machineJust thinking ahead  RonSent from Xfinity Connect Application-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: johnr...@aol.comSent: 2019-04-17 8:31:35 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Thoughts on '77 C 29?Is this a 29 Mark I or Mark II??



I love my Mark II.  Not tender to me as an old dingy sailor.  Yes, nimble, quick, responsive.




There is another Mark II at my club with a shorter rudder than mine and I understand he does have more problems with broaching. I have raced mine in 40+gusts and won that race under PHRF.  One broach in 7 years when crew did not take the main sheet with him while hiking in order to be ready to release in conditions that might warrant it.




Suddenly went from a north bound boat to a south bound boat. Best broach of my life.  Boat just flipped around and we went on sailing.  No one hurt.




John McLaughlin





-Original Message-
From: Mark A. Watson via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Mark A. Watson 
Sent: Wed, Apr 17, 2019 2:32 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Thoughts on '77 C 29?





Strangly






I have a C 41 - love it


Hate going in reverse its always a crap shoot. Goes up wind like
  a vacuum cleaner. Best at 25 - 30 degrees


Hull had one small blister at last years haul out. Oh and the
  traditional keel smile.  Great construction and smart above and
  below deck fittings and appointments. 







Not sure what else would be relevant 




  



 

  






Mark Watson 



Trinity - 1977 Newport 41
  



  



  



  



  


 
  
  


  



  



  



  



  



  




On 4/17/2019 9:23 AM, Jeremy Dinsel via
  CnC-List wrote:



  






  I happen to have a C 29 from the exact same year. It is a
  little tender at the dock as it’ll move a bit when it’s boarded,
  but underway it feels fine to me. I’m a new boat owner and this is
  the first boat I’ve owned. I obtained it for a similar price and
  put a good amount into it to replace the standing and running
  rigging as well as the sails. I have the original universal
  diesel, so if your option has been repowered, that might be a
  great addition. 
  

  

  
Under full power (with a 120% Genoa), the boat heels fairly
comfortably and races forwarded in up to 14 kts. I’d recommend
reefing by 14 kts, but it is situationally relevant. I have been
out in 20 kts under full sail and found it aggressive as the
boat was able to point up to 15 degrees off the wind but still
didn’t dip the toe rail.  I dropped the sails quickly for my own
comfort as well as my crew’s. 

  

  

  
It’s been my opinion that comfort with heeling comes from
time and experience on boats. Much like someone else mentioned,
conditions and training even for catamaran appreciators will
eventually win over relatively new sailors. 

  

  

  
There’s little I’d change in my 29’. I’d recommend getting a
survey and seeing if it’s still the best deal on the market. No
matter what you go with, keep your crew in mind while helping
them to gain the time and experience required to become
comfortable. Find other friends with more experience that your
crew knows and respects and give them the helm. I’ve found that
having my friend Kristin aboard gives me ample time to compare
my level of comfort vs her’s. She’s far more experienced than I
am, and is the perfect bell weather. 

  

  

  
Jeremy Dinsel

  
C 29 1977

  
Seattle, Wa


iTypo'd expressly for
  you.



  On Apr 16, 2019, at 18:00, Shawn Wright 
  wrote:
  



  


I'm interested in opinions of a '77 C
  29. There is one named "Tooth & Nail" that has been
  for sale in Vancouver for some time now. The 

Re: Stus-List Galley Sink

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Hi Alanl stopped a long time ago trying to re-create a 1977 38MKII.If your going to replace the counter top.you can put in any size sink you want I chose one of the newer deep single bowls in shiny stainlessIt made replumbing the drain easier as well.I also replaced that piece of wood that is under the stairwayand always wet from rain coming in the companionway..We used the same white laminate that we used for the countertops and nav station desk top.Best,Ron Sent from Xfinity Connect Application-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: trya...@alumni.usc.eduSent: 2018-12-01 12:18:32 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Galley SinkHi Ron - Where did you find a single bowl sink that's about the same size as the double sink that came with many of the C's? Alan Bergen35 Mk III ThirstyRose City YCPortland, OROn Sat, Dec 1, 2018 at 6:52 AM rjcasciato--- via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:Hi Adamdo not listen to those C'rs who say that the dark cave is a good place to bethe dark ages are over...I redid the countertops on my 38MKII '77 vintage a year ago...What a differencethe whole interior feels much bigger than beforeWe used simple laminate in white and it is amazing...Used the savings from the counter top to replace the sink with a new single bowlanother great decision.Definitely go for itremembera happy Admiral is a happy life.Ron C.

 





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Re: Stus-List Galley and NAV station counters

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Hi Adamdo not listen to those C'rs who say that the dark cave is a good place to bethe dark ages are over...I redid the countertops on my 38MKII '77 vintage a year ago...What a differencethe whole interior feels much bigger than beforeWe used simple laminate in white and it is amazing...Used the savings from the counter top to replace the sink with a new single bowlanother great decision.Definitely go for itremembera happy Admiral is a happy life.Ron C.Sent from Xfinity Connect Application-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: davidrisc...@msn.comSent: 2018-12-01 7:39:49 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Galley and NAV station counters



I too am adding a countertop to my decidedly not Cat/Hunt/Ben galley top.  Too much dark teak down below.  i think the original owner purchased every available teak option.  Go for it.




1981 40-2




>From my Android



From: CnC-List  on behalf of Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 


Sent: Saturday, December 1, 2018 3:25:01 AM


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Cc: cenel...@aol.com


Subject: Re: Stus-List Galley and NAV station counters



  


Some of the early 90s C actually came from the factory with Corian (?) sinks and counter tops, including my 1995 36 XL/kcb.




Charlie Nelson 


Water Phantom 




Sent from AOL Mobile Mail 


Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com




On Friday, November 30, 2018, Russ & Melody via CnC-List  wrote:








Hi Adam, 



At the risk of being too honest and taking your request for any feedback at face value... please, please do not do such a horrible thing as to add corian countertops to a C




If you are serious about going that route then may I suggest a Beneteau, Hunter or Catalina as a viable candidate. Then I will offer no objection at all.




Best regards, Russ 


ex Sweet 35 mk-1 




At 03:03 PM 11/30/2018, you wrote: 







I am wondering if anyone has changed out their galley countertops for more modern products such as corian or other hard surface.  I am not so much concerned about the excess weight as we do mostly cruising.  



We are also very diligent about store ng fear when sailing so I even question the need for the fiddles. 




I just think it would modernize the interior and please the admiral. 



Any feedback ior suggestions is appreciated. 



Adam Hayden 


C 36 


state of bliss. 





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Re: Stus-List Anyone with experience selling shares?

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

So Barbara.what are you thinking about for a price per share? And what do the shareholders get as boat privileges??Thanks, RonC.Sent from Xfinity Connect Application-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: blhick...@yahoo.comSent: 2018-10-05 7:32:42 PM Subject: Stus-List Anyone with experience selling shares?
Hi Listers,I’ve been considering selling shares to offset the costs of ownership. I’d like to do it on a “limited term” basis, like an annual share basis. Does anyone have any experience with this?  Pls contact me off or on list if you do or have any suggestions. Thanks!Barbara L. HicksonFlight Risk C 33-1 Charleston, SCSent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Rob - C long time question

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Don. I have a 1977 C 38 MK II, Hull #125. Bought it in 1997. Races well.
Ron Casciato
Impromptu


Sent from Xfinity Connect Application

-Original Message-

From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: don-k...@cox.net
Sent: 2018-09-30 7:10:48 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rob - C long time question

Being retired, and having a rainy day I put together a spread sheet 
(attached) from the replies to Jack's request.  Please let me know by 
email, if you want to be removed or want to make corrections to the 
list.  Rhis is a shorten list that does not include the second and third 
boats that folks have owned.

I will send out an update as soon as the replies peter out.

ps: What part of the C serial number is the hull number, the last 
three digits?

Best regards,
Don Kern
Fireball - 12708
1974 C 35 Mk2
Bristol, RI 02809

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Re: Stus-List Can't you read?

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Hi Stu, long time since we chattedI agree wholeheartedly with your positionMaybe the time has come that "DIGEST" simply get blocked with an "undeliverable" notice...   you are not the email etiquette policedon't waste your time,  just block the send..BestRon CasciatoImpromtu C 38MKII1977Sent from XFINITY Connect Application-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: stu.murray@gmail.comSent: 2018-08-18 12:42:12 PM Subject: Stus-List Can't you read?



I have posted this many times but some people can’t or don’t read it.
 
The Subject – CnC List Digest, Vol XXX, Issue XX is a NO NO.  Read 
again – it’s a NO NO!  Change the subject line to reflect on the subject 
you are addressing.
 
Read that last List Digest email.  Notice anything – it was NOT 
trimmed and contained at least 8 messages that had already been sent and 
probably had nothing to do with the email being sent.  Another reason why 
our archive storage fees are going up.
 
Are you on unlimited bandwidth?  What about our subscribers who have 
limited data and get whacked every time an untrimmed message is received?
 
We have a great list going here and it has been for a good many 
years.  Let’s follow a few simple rules and we will be going for a long 
time.
 
Stu
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Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Hi Alan.Could you provide a pic or link for smart plugs???Thanks Ron C.Sent from XFINITY Connect Application-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: trya...@alumni.usc.eduSent: 2018-08-07 10:06:45 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power inletA better arrangement is a Smart Plug and inlet.  The cable snaps in without any threads.  The contacts are larger, and when it's not plugged in, the cover snaps down into place.  You can buy the \whole assembly complete with cord, or you can use your Marinco cord and add the fittings yourself.  That's what I did when I found charred contacts on the Marinco inlet.I also made adapters to cover all possible arrangements - 15, 20, and 30 amps.  I haven't made a 50 amp adapter, but that comes next. Alan Bergen35 Mk III ThirstyRose City YCPortland, OR
On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 6:37 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  wrote:I just bought one last month for a boat I was delivering, at West Marine.
The complete assembly is about $55. Or you can buy just the stainless
mounting parts and cover for about $45, and the electrical part at about $40
as separate items. On the new stainless assembly, I liked the new attachment
for the cover a lot - you put the cover in place and turn it about 60
degrees to engage two bosses into the threaded parts, rather than having to
thread the cover on as you do with the old style inlet on my boat.

I'm sure you can find the item less expensively on Amazon or EBay.

I have been in 3 marinas in the last month that had only 50 amp power on the
docks, and had tto borrow or rent a 50 amp male to 30 amp female pigtail to
plug in my boat. I decided to buy one and found Marinco is right proud of
them - pushing $150. I found a new one on line for $79.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bradley
Lumgair via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 10:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bradley Lumgair 
Subject: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet

I broke the threaded boss in the shore power inlet the other day on Pulse,
ordered a new one from amazon, and an ez lock collar for the cord. Looks
like it's all going to fit, more or less, however when I took the inlet
apart, 2 of the rear enclosure mounting corners are broken off (plastic) and
the gaskets are done. Does anyone know of a source for parts for Marinco
fittings? 30a 110v stainless. Don't really want to buy a new one this year.
Thanks
Brad
Pulse C 33 MKII
Lake Huron

Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
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Re: Stus-List I am so done with bilge pumps...

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Hi DennisAre you referring to a bilge pump or the bilge pump high water switch...What's the model number of the system you've installed?ThanksRon C.Sent from XFINITY Connect Application-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: capt...@gmail.comSent: 2018-07-24 10:30:37 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List I am so done with bilge pumps...Bob alludes to a critical but often overlooked issue.  Wiring that is too small to carry the amperage of a user, in this case, a bilge pump, can result in excessive voltage drop.  Low voltage could contribute to premature failure.I second the Ultra Safety Systems bilge pump.  I don't have one on Touche' (yet) but my buddy and I installed a bunch of them over the years.  To my knowledge, they are all still working.Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LAOn Tue, Jul 24, 2018 at 6:26 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List  wrote:I’ll add a little bit to this discussion...up until this year I was replacing RULE Super Switches every year—sometimes they didn’t even last a year.  I never had a problem with my RULE 1500 bilge pump, just the float switches.  I recently changed over to a float switch made by ULTRA systems and I love it.  It hasn’t been a year yet but it is manufactured so much better than the RULE float switches that I’m sure it will last several years at least.I’ve also replaced my bilge pump wiring and went up one size from the minimum needed to do the job.  All connections are done with heat shrink connectors too.BobBob Boyers/v Rainy DaysC Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)blog: dainyrays.blogspot.comemail: dainyr...@icloud.comOn Jul 24, 2018, at 6:54 PM, Richard via CnC-List  wrote:David, can you provide a few more details? What do you have currently and what quit working? I have bilge pump issues myself and need to do something different with my setup, thanks Sent from my iPhoneOn Jul 24, 2018, at 6:36 PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:





Every friggin year more BS.   So changing out primary to diaghram and secondary (3000+ gph) to a higher quality (not Rule) pump recirculating.




Any brand suggestions?



Thanks in advance.  




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___Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___

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Re: Stus-List Removing old stickers

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Charlie...did you win??? If so, leave them on, if not, start with a hair dryer Work slowly,  resort to solvents after the main part is removed.Don't get aggressive with buffers or eraser wheels if you can help it.Ron C. Sent from XFINITY Connect Application-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: cenel...@aol.comSent: 2018-07-18 12:02:00 PM Subject: Stus-List Removing old stickers
I have Charleston Race Week stickers on my bow (OK, I have been busy with other things!) that I need to remove.

 

The boat has Awl-Grip on its hull which I would prefer to preserve. 

 

Aside from plastic scrapers, soap and water, and elbow grease, does anyone have a magic remedy to remove this. 

 

Its not a decal, just adhesive backed but they are about 18" x 18". 

 

TIA,

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C XL/kcb 

 

cenel...@aol.com

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Re: Stus-List Sail Drives in general > Maintenance?

[rjcasciato via CnC-List]

So, just to jump into this thread . I repowered my 38MKII in 2005.  I chose 
to replace the original Volvo and shaft drive with a Yanmar 3ym30 with an SD20 
sail drive.  Total installation cost was near $9K..So we're now 12 years 
laterI remain an extremely positive supporter of the move
The engine regularly gets winterized...less than  $300/yr.lower unit drive 
oil flushed and replaced every 4 years $125 each time. (Think service on a 30hp 
outboard motor) The seals were replaced last winter.not necessary, just 
paranoid. Seal cost is around $100. Labor in my case involved lifting the 
engine out and replacing the factory elbow with a stainless version...and doing 
some engine room cosmeticstotal cost to replace and reinstall was around 
$1000.Overall cost to me has been much less than posts here.The performance 
of the saildrive is far superior to any shaft drive in my opinionmuch 
faster than the Volvo, very quiet, much better handling.and over 100lbs 
LIGHTER than the Volvo.Just my 12 year experience for comparison.I'd do it 
again in a heartbeat..Oh, I forgot to mention that it was Rob Ball who took 
me to the Yanmar booth at the Newport show in 2005 and pointed out the 3ym30 
and SD20 package...I had asked him "if there was anything he would do today to 
improve the 38MKII".this saildrive package was at the top of his list.
Ron C.



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: John Pennie via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/21/17  3:16 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John Pennie  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Sail Drives in general > Maintenance? 
Personally I would look for shaft.  To have saildrive is to truly understand 
fear of electrolysis.  I also miss the prop walk.  Replacing the seals is an 
every 8 yr project according to Volvo and cost 4,500 last time I did it.  Only 
real advantage is for the builder.  They do however open up the back cabin.
Just my 2 cents
Jersey he

Sent from my iPad
On Nov 21, 2017, at 9:41 AM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List  
wrote:

Am beginning to look for the “next” boat [this winter’s armchair boat 
project vs. the real ones] and have come across some that have sail drives, 
though most are traditional shaft drives.   What is the group’s experience with 
sail drives from any engine builder?  Google has revealed Volvo and Yanmar have 
the bulk of the market and sail drives are becoming the rule vs. the exception 
on newer boats over the past 10 years or so.  While they are reported to be 
quieter / less vibration than traditional shafts, from what I have read  the 
maintenance beyond changing the oil in the drive unit annually [just as one 
would for the engine] is not really a DIY project.  Replacing the 2 seals, 
particularly the one keeping the water out of the boat, sounds like they are a 
yard job – and expensive ones at that; on the order of $2 - $5k depending on 
the location of the yard.  And the “recommended” seal replacement interval is 
reported at every 5 to 7 years…   While many owners may go well beyond that, 
what happens to an insurance claim if one has exceeded the manufacturer’s 
“recommended service” interval?   Any experience / information with sail drives 
is appreciated.   Thanks,Brian From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rod Stright via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 7:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rod Stright 
Subject: Stus-List Volvo Penta Sail Drive Anyone out there have any experience 
at replacing a Volvo Penta Sail Drive and transmission?  Recommendation on a 
good source for parts and expertise hopefully on the east coast.? ThanksRod2004 
C 99___

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Re: Stus-List Winches....

[rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Hi Dave...The new Pontos winches are new for thus season..They are 4 speed 
and shift gears sort of automatically.  You don't have to switch or flip 
buttons. 
They are fast and the video in the ads is very accurate.  They say you could 
use only 1 trimmer since he could release and get to the incoming sheet faster 
than the usual system.I'm lucky enough to have 2 guys that handle our 155 
nicely.So far, I /they really like them.  I don't have any service 
experience yet..I bought them from Defender on sale.About $4300 for 
both.they fit right where my BarientSTs wereI'm currently operating 
with only 4 winches. 2 Pontos 46 Grinders and 2 BarientSTs on the coach roof 
for halyards.I cleaned off the deck and retired all the other 
winchesHope this helpsRon


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
Date: 08/15/2017  6:09 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: C List  
Cc: Dave Godwin  
Subject: Stus-List Winches 

Ron,

"primaries replaced with Pontos 46 Grinders..what a difference…..”
Tell me more about those Points winches if you would. I’ve just completed 
servicing all my winches prior to re-installing them and have been thinking 
about some replacements. My Barient 28’s, self-tailing and non, are getting to 
be a hand-full for us older folks.
Press looks good but just may be marketing. Have you had them long? Any service 
problems? Too good to be true?  ;-)
Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit


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Re: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall

[rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Hi Hank...I am still a happy owner of a 38MkII that came from the Custom 
Shop..you guys would love thus boat.originally built for a guy in 
Chicago specifically for the Mac races..absolutly no amenities.I 
finally installed shore power about 3 years ago...The dorade boxes and 4-5 
barients also wentprimaries replaced with Pontos 46 Grinders..what a 
difference.Those barients are available..by the way..This boat now 
looks like it came out of the mold yesterday..and the race record over the 
past 3 years is above average
The Custom Shop certainly did a great job on this one.Ron CImpromptuC 
38MKIIC, 1977


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: henry evans via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/15/17  10:09 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: Paul Fountain 
via CnC-List  Cc: henry evans  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall 
Paul,You are correct.  Eric Bruckmann's plant was one of the original 4 
entities merged to create C Yachts.  Eric was a brilliant, old school master 
boatwright who was willing to try new technology, although sometimes 
grudgingly. He would grouse and grumble, but get it done.  He did almost all 
the prototype work and built all the custom boats.  He also built some of the 
wood plugs from which production tooling was made.  There simply wasn't 
anything in the boat building business at the time, that our custom plant could 
not do. With boats like "Red Jacket", the Canada's Cupper "Evergreen" and the 
MEGA with its bullet proof windows, what came out of that plant was cutting 
edge, state of the art technology. They were making reality out of the creative 
ideas coming from the industry's brightest design office of the time. 
I found excuses to stop by there quite often. I'd always visit with David Gee 
who was plant manager and Eric to see what was going on then wander around the 
plant asking questions and observing. There was always something new and 
different happening,  things to be seen and learned. For someone who loved 
boats, it was like a kid visiting a candy store.
Hank Evans

On Tuesday, August 15, 2017, 8:39:10 AM CDT, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
 wrote:

#yiv5847975373 #yiv5847975373 --
 
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#yiv5847975373 

If memory serves me – The custom shop was at Bruckmann’s in Oakville (actually 
Bronte on the west side of Oakville), still in business today, but
 at a different location in Mississauga. 
   


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2017 8:21 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall 


   



Question for Hank: 


  


    Where was the “custom shop”?  I have a “42 Custom,” which is more or less a 
sistership of the first Baltic 42, and I was told that only six were built in 
the “custom shop.” 




  



From:
henry evans via CnC-List
 


Sent: Monday, August 14, 2017 8:51 PM 


To:
Jerome Tauber via CnC-List
 


Cc:
henry evans
 


Subject: Re: Stus-List Design question on
 the 38 vs the 38 landfall 




  






Obviously, the stern of the LF-38 is different as is the rig and keel.  The 
basic hull shape is the same as the 38-2. 



  


If memory serves, all the 38's were built at NOTL and all the Landfalls at RI. 


  


Hank Evans 


  


  




On Monday, August 14, 2017, 6:56:44 PM CDT, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
 wrote: 


  


  




According to sailboat data online "

The LANDFALL 38 shares the same hull design as the C 38-2 but with a 
shallower keel, shorter rig and entirely different interior. Built at C's 
Rhode Island (USA) plant."   Jerry 

  


  


  



-Original Message-

From: john 

Re: Stus-List US Watercraft receivership

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Dennis..it's the old adage..if you don't learn from historyyou're 
destined to repeat it.




My own opinion is that sailing has become a diminishing interest.while 
power boats are enjoying a growth market.




It's the immediate gratification generation..just turn the key and drive 
away.




It's not the lack of money...except for special circumstances.e.g. 
Comanche, Meteor, etc..the money is going into power.




Check out the MJM 50 e.g.  big engines, gyroscopic stabilization and a $2.5 M 
pricetag.


And the waiting list is over 3 years long..MJM produces at least 2 boats 
per week.from 35' to 50'...the least expensive is in the $900K 
range.




Makes me really like my C even more




Ron C.








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On Mon, Jul 24, 2017 at 8:35 PM -0400, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










So how many times does this make for C?
Hope blooms eternal...

Dennis C.
On Mon, Jul 24, 2017 at 5:40 PM, Don Harben via CnC-List 
 wrote:


http://cdn.sailingscuttlebutt.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/Scan_20170724.pdf




Alerion Yachts, 

C Yachts, 

True North Yachts, 

North Rip Boats,  

licensed builder of several JBoat models

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 40 question

[rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Danny, 
I'll finally try to learn how to create an entry on the photoalbum ..
Something I've been going go do for years. I'm in that "pre-pre millennial" 
group, called "generationally challenged"
E.g. did you know that a J109 instrument pod fits almost "exactly" on the 
companionway hood of a 38.    In full view of the crew.
Best,Ron


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 7/7/17  1:06 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: rjcasciato via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Danny Haughey <djhaug...@juno.com> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 40 question 

Thats pretty great!  any photos?

    


    On 7/7/2017 12:53 PM, rjcasciato via
  CnC-List wrote:



  
  Danny, Absolutely serious..Impromptu will be 40 years old
in September I'm the 4th owner and completely refinished the
interior in 1998 when I purchased the boat.
  I ain't doing that again
  

  
  My wife doesn't do sun, wind, or noiseso my long-standing
crew of 30 years and I campaign the boat in the PHRF races
around Boston.
  

  
  And I try to remove something wooden each year.   The list of
improvements over 20 years is substantial.   
  

  
  If the bathfitter project is doable. I'll consider
replacing the wood bulkhead with high strength laminate foam
sheets.structurally compatible as a bulkhead.half the
weight..
  

  
  But it's racing season and we're doing well so maybe next
year. 
  

  
  Ron
  Impromptu
  C 38 MK II  #125
  1977
  

  
  

  
  

  
  
Sent from my
  Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
  
  

  
  
 Original message 
From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List
  <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: 7/6/17 8:04 AM (GMT-05:00) 
To: rjcasciato--- via CnC-List
  <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Danny Haughey <djhaug...@juno.com> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 40 question 



  
  Ron, are you serious?  what a great idea about the bathfitter
    solution!

      
  

  On 7/5/2017 10:04 PM, rjcasciato---
via CnC-List wrote:

  
  
Andy.is your wife doing any of
  the varnishing?

  


Actually, I'm thinking about getting
  a quote from Bathfitter Pro to vacuum form new walls and
  vanity in my head..

  


Ron 

  



  Get Outlook
  for Android
  








On Wed, Jul 5, 2017 at 1:39 PM -0400,
  "Andrew Burton via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
  wrote:

  

  

  

  

  Are you just trying to start a fight, Ron? :)

  
  Actually, I've threatened to paint the bulkheads
  on my boat eggshell white, but my wife won't hear
  of it. She says it feels nice and cozy...and my
  woodwork is in excellent shape, so I just varnish
  it.


Andy

  
  C 40


Peregrine

  
      

    On Wed, Jul 5, 2017 at 1:22 PM,
  rjcasciato via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
  wrote:

  

  Great lines, but way too much dark wood
below. "less is more" 
  With all that weight. it would be hard to
sail to her rating...
  Ron C.
  Impromptu 
  38 MK II 
  1977
  

  
  

  
  

  
  
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung
  Galaxy smartphone
  
  

  
  
   Original message 
  From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
  

  Date: 7/5/17 10:30 AM (GMT-05:00) 
  To: cnc-list

Re: Stus-List C 40 question

[rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Dennis I like that look a lot.if my babysitter project doesn't plan 
out...We have further con relations about hour pronectVery nice jobRon




Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 7/6/17  11:00 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: CnClist 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: "Dennis C." <capt...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: 
Stus-List C 40 question 
We shower on Touche' often, usually in the head.  Touche' has both a cockpit 
shower and a shower/mixer faucet in the head.  I installed a bracket in the 
head to hold the spray head for the Admiral.
The shower drains to the bilge.  The only issue I find is cleaning the bilge on 
a regular basis to remove body oils, etc.  Otherwise, it works great.
Many years ago, I re-covered the teak bulkheads with a white Formica.  
Brightened the head up and added a more modern look.  The remaining exposed 
wood is either varnish or Cetol.   See here:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsQk9CUjEzOGJiY3M

Simple wipe down and air dry works fine.  There is a solar vent in the overhead 
of the head to hasten the drying process.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Thu, Jul 6, 2017 at 9:39 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I use the shower on my boat all the time when I'm cruising or even if I've just 
gotten hot and sweaty from doing a project. My boat is a second home and I 
treat her like one; it's all part of being comfortable on board.
The trick is to dry the head after every shower, you can't get away with 
leaving it wet. I keep the overhead hatch open and use one of those artificial 
chamois to dry all surfaces, bulkheads, and fixtures. An additional upside to 
this is that it keeps the head clean and smelling fresh. No problem with 
getting the inside of lockers wet as the louvers are angled to prevent that.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine


On Thu, Jul 6, 2017 at 8:59 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:








Cockpit shower is the way to go
 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2017 9:55 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Della Barba, Joe

Subject: Re: Stus-List C 40 question


 
That raises a question – does anyone actually take showers in the head? I could 
technically do this if I put the shower head back on, but actually taking a
 shower in a 35 or 40 involves spraying water all over the teak and presumably 
into the lockers.
 
Joe
Coquina
 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Danny Haughey via CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2017 8:05 AM

To: rjcasciato--- via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

Cc: Danny Haughey <djhaug...@juno.com>

Subject: Re: Stus-List C 40 question


 
Ron, are you serious?  what a great idea about the bathfitter solution!
 

On 7/5/2017 10:04 PM, rjcasciato--- via CnC-List wrote:



Andy.is your wife doing any of the varnishing?


Actually, I'm thinking about getting a quote from Bathfitter Pro to vacuum form 
new walls and vanity in my head..


Ron




Get
Outlook for Android

 

 

On Wed, Jul 5, 2017 at 1:39 PM -0400, "Andrew Burton via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:







Are you just trying to start a fight, Ron? :)

Actually, I've threatened to paint the bulkheads on my boat eggshell white, but 
my wife won't hear of it. She says it feels nice and cozy...and my woodwork is 
in excellent shape, so I just varnish it.

Andy

C 40

Peregrine


 

On Wed, Jul 5, 2017 at 1:22 PM, rjcasciato via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:



Great lines, but way too much dark wood below. "less is more" 


With all that weight. it would be hard to sail to her rating...


Ron C.


Impromptu 


38 MK II 


1977


 


 


 



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone



 



 Original message 


From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>



Date: 7/5/17 10:30 AM (GMT-05:00) 


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com



Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>



Subject: Stus-List C 40 question 


 



http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1981/C%26C-Yachts-C%26amp%3BC-40-3102940/Oriental/NC/United-States#.WVz3qmYUk6Y
 
Has anyone seen this boat?
Two things come to mind, one is the bow pulpit looks bent and the second is 
outside of cardboard,
 I cannot image a worse material for a holding tank then aluminum!
YIKES!
 
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I




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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!








-- 

Andrew Burton

Re: Stus-List C 40 question

[rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Danny, Absolutely serious..Impromptu will be 40 years old in September 
I'm the 4th owner and completely refinished the interior in 1998 when I 
purchased the boat.I ain't doing that again
My wife doesn't do sun, wind, or noiseso my long-standing crew of 30 years 
and I campaign the boat in the PHRF races around Boston.
And I try to remove something wooden each year.   The list of improvements over 
20 years is substantial.   
If the bathfitter project is doable. I'll consider replacing the wood 
bulkhead with high strength laminate foam sheets.structurally compatible as 
a bulkhead.half the weight..
But it's racing season and we're doing well so maybe next year. 
RonImpromptuC 38 MK II  #1251977


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 7/6/17  8:04 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: rjcasciato--- 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Danny Haughey <djhaug...@juno.com> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 40 question 

Ron, are you serious?  what a great idea about the bathfitter
  solution!




On 7/5/2017 10:04 PM, rjcasciato--- via
  CnC-List wrote:



  Andy.is your wife doing any of the
varnishing?



  
  Actually, I'm thinking about getting a
quote from Bathfitter Pro to vacuum form new walls and vanity in
my head..



  
  Ron 



  
  
Get Outlook for Android


  
  

  

  

  On Wed, Jul 5, 2017 at 1:39 PM -0400,
"Andrew Burton via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:




  

  

  
Are you just trying to start a fight, Ron? :)


Actually, I've threatened to paint the bulkheads on
my boat eggshell white, but my wife won't hear of
it. She says it feels nice and cozy...and my
woodwork is in excellent shape, so I just varnish
it.

  
  Andy


C 40

  
  Peregrine




  On Wed, Jul 5, 2017 at 1:22 PM,
    rjcasciato via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:


  
Great lines, but way too much dark wood
  below. "less is more" 
With all that weight. it would be hard to
  sail to her rating...
Ron C.
Impromptu 
38 MK II 
1977










  Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy
smartphone





 Original message 
From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

  
Date: 7/5/17 10:30 AM (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>

  
Subject: Stus-List C 40 question 



  

  

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1981/C%26C-Yachts-C%26amp%3BC-40-3102940/Oriental/NC/United-States#.WVz3qmYUk6Y
 
Has
anyone seen this boat?
Two
things come to mind, one is the bow pulpit
looks bent and the second is outside of
cardboard, I cannot image a worse material
for a holding tank then aluminum!
YIKES!
 
Joe
Della Barba
Coquina
C
35 MK I
  

  

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  This list is supported by the generous donations of
  our members. If you wish to make a contribution to
  offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal

Re: Stus-List C 40 question

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Andy.is your wife doing any of the varnishing?




Actually, I'm thinking about getting a quote from Bathfitter Pro to vacuum form 
new walls and vanity in my head..




Ron 




Get Outlook for Android







On Wed, Jul 5, 2017 at 1:39 PM -0400, "Andrew Burton via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:










Are you just trying to start a fight, Ron? :)
Actually, I've threatened to paint the bulkheads on my boat eggshell white, but 
my wife won't hear of it. She says it feels nice and cozy...and my woodwork is 
in excellent shape, so I just varnish it.
Andy
C 40
Peregrine

On Wed, Jul 5, 2017 at 1:22 PM, rjcasciato via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:
Great lines, but way too much dark wood below. "less is more" With all 
that weight. it would be hard to sail to her rating...Ron C.Impromptu 38 MK 
II 1977


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 7/5/17  10:30 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> Subject: 
Stus-List C 40 question 




http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1981/C%26C-Yachts-C%26amp%3BC-40-3102940/Oriental/NC/United-States#.WVz3qmYUk6Y


 


Has anyone seen this boat?


Two things come to mind, one is the bow pulpit looks bent and the second is 
outside of cardboard, I cannot image a worse material for a holding tank then 
aluminum!


YIKES!


 


Joe Della Barba


Coquina


C 35 MK I


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-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260






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Re: Stus-List C 40 question

[rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Great lines, but way too much dark wood below. "less is more" With all 
that weight. it would be hard to sail to her rating...Ron C.Impromptu 38 MK 
II 1977


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
 Date: 7/5/17  10:30 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Della Barba, Joe"  Subject: 
Stus-List C 40 question 


http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1981/C%26C-Yachts-C%26amp%3BC-40-3102940/Oriental/NC/United-States#.WVz3qmYUk6Y
 
Has anyone seen this boat?
Two things come to mind, one is the bow pulpit looks bent and the second is 
outside of cardboard, I cannot image a worse material for a holding tank then 
aluminum!
YIKES!
 
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I

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Re: Stus-List speed instrument frustration

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Dennis, a few years ago I did business with a guy, Achilles Youseff...from 
Chicago Marine Electronics..he was their Nexus guru and had a wide 
selection of Nexus instruments and partssome scavenged from non working 
units.


See if he's still there


Best


Ron C.


Get Outlook for Android






On Wed, Nov 30, 2016 at 8:15 PM -0500, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
 wrote:












My Nexus Classic knotlog is pushing 15 years.  I don't leave it in the boat.  
Remove it and replace it with the plug if boat is going to sit for more than a 
few days.


I did, however, add stress relief to the cable entering the transducer after 
the original transducer died after 2-3 years.  Nexus tech told me the shield 
and wires were subject to breakage due to the Lack of stress relief there.


Garmin now sells the descendent systems from Nexus/NX2.  Nice instruments.


Dennis C.

On Nov 30, 2016 9:12 AM, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
 wrote:





I have Nexus NX2 instruments (now owned by Garmin), and they are very 
reliable.  No problem with five year old speed transducer.


 

From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2016 9:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bill Bina - gmail 
Subject: Re: Stus-List speed instrument 
frustration
 



Mine is from Raymarine and it is removable for 
cleaning while the boat is in the water. I keep the dummy plug in the thruhull 
except when I need to use the speed instrument. Takes a couple minutes to swap 
out, but not a big deal. My old one was a 1986 Standard Horizon that was still 
working when I replaced all of my instruments a couple years ago. You can use a 
water based antifouling paint on it if you wish, but I don't bother. 




Bill Bina


On 11/30/2016 8:51 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
wrote:


  

  
  

For 
  ages I have had a Standard-Horizon SL1 speed log. The instrument eventually 
  died and was replaced. The impellor was always getting gunked up and then 
died 
  for good. The instrument died again. I got one instrument and two impellors 
  from Fleabay. One impellor died quickly and the other one died just now 
  L 
  They were all new in box too.
  

I 
  am about ready to just look at the GPS and give up on this. Is there a modern 
  speed sensor that actually lasts? I remember replacing a ton of them back in 
  the day as an Autohelm dealer.
  

Joe
  

Coquina

   
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the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to 
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Contributions are greatly appreciated!




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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!








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Re: Stus-List spinnaker pole repair and refurb

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Dave.call your local Dr. Dent repair...find him in the automotive services section of your yellow pages..Those guys do this on metal all the time.Ron C.Sent from XFINITY Connect Mobile App-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: syerd...@gmail.comSent: 2016-11-14 5:26:16 PM Subject: Stus-List spinnaker pole repair and refurbEvening all,This winter's theme is running rigging, and this includes dealing with the spinnaker pole, which is dented, slightly bent, and needs a new shock cord bridle.   Per recommendations here, I picked up the shock cord tools last weekend in Nova Scotia - that part is easy.  Any suggestions on how to  with the dent/bend?See photos here.http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/11/spinnaker-pole-repair.htmlThanks, Dave '85 33-2 Windstar
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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 3GMD

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Try J-Way enterprises in Scituate Mass..expert Yan market service and 
parts.I don't have the phone number right now, but they have a website 
site.Google. 

Ron C.


Get Outlook for Android






On Wed, Nov 2, 2016 at 6:24 PM -0400, "rshibe via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










Howard, 
You might try and find a fat  "O" ring or whittle down a wine cork.
Ray

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 2, 2016, at 17:09, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hello All,
> Now that the boat (35-3) is on the hard, I was able to clean the engine and 
> try to locate the source of my oil leak(s).  It appears that the culprit is 
> the dipstick! The rubber seal no longer is able to stay in place, rises up 
> and allows oil out of the crankcase when under power.  The local parts shop 
> says the oil dip stick is out of stock and not available.  Does anyone have a 
> lead on where to obtain a dipstick for a 3GMD? Thanks.
> Howard Paul, Skipper of Knot Again
> 
> 


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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List mold killer product Wet and Forget question

[rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Guys:  I have a couple of experiences with Wet & Forget..First, check their 
website siteyou'll find the concentrated product discussed here in the area 
of power washers and other roof or siding cleaners.I used it on a house 
roof section that had mold, moss, and lichens.2 spraying sessions and left 
alone per directions.mold gone, moss dead Brown and flacking 
off.lichens not so much.However, in the household cleaning section they 
also have a ready you use all surface bath and shower spray.  Same 
expectations.spray it on and leave it and then wash with water the next 
time you shower.That works great as well, so I tried it all over my engine 
compartment; engine, sides, and the floor and engine bed..let it sit for 2 
dayscame back, used a small soft bristle brush to go over everything and 
then hosed it all off with a pressure nozzle...The end result looks brand 
new.. all sides and floor surfaces are sparkling white and engine is new 
Yammer gray lookingI plan to do 2-3 treatments next year.
Almost forgotsame great results in the bilge too. 
The ready shower spray is about 4-5 times the price of the concentrate, 
howeverwell worth the cost.Virtually no work.    Ron C.


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Chuck S via CnC-List 
 Date: 10/22/16  1:43 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list CNC 
boat owners  Cc: Chuck S  
Subject: Stus-List mold killer product Wet and Forget question 
Anyone have any experience with a product called, "Wet and Forget".  ??It is 
supposed to be enviromentally safe, but kills mold by simply spraying on and 
let it air dry.  Available at Lowes and Home Depot.

I'm interested in treating the ceiling and walls of my boat's cabin, as last 
year it was a real battle with sunny days warming the cabin and cold nights 
making condensation form on the cold decks and windows.  Until the weather 
finally stayed cold, I was wiping down the ceilings and walls every visit.  
I guess I should add those humidity absorbing tubs too.  Any brands better than 
others? 
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md___

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Re: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

[rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Kevin.how many boats will sail in the PHRF fleet.will there be a mix of 
spinnaker and non spinnakers??If that fleet is mixed...Regattaman  simply adds 
10 seconds to the non spinnaker boat and enters that rating into the 
spreadsheet...Here in NE that Chase Race had a rating spread from 45 to over 
200...the C 38 non spinnaker start was 33:33 after the first start gun.
Ron C.

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: RANDY via CnC-List 
 Date: 10/10/16  11:48 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: Kevin 
Driscoll  Cc: RANDY , 
cnc-list  Subject: Re: Stus-List Race Committee for 
Pursuit Race 
OK I put one such spreadsheet in 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTbG9JcGs1MFpWOTQ, called 
Corrections.xlsx.  It shows time corrections in seconds using PHRF TOT for a 
number of different boats in my club, given elapsed time in a race.  For 
example in a one-hour JAM race I have to beat the Catalina 27s by two minutes, 
and the Catalina 25 by 3.5 minutes, or they'll correct over me.
You could edit the spreadsheet to contain data for the boats in your race 
(given their PHRF ratings), and use the data to figure out start times.  Column 
D contains the Time Correction Factor for each boat, given its PHRF rating and 
the PHRF TOT formula TCF=A/(B+PHRF).  You can plug in whatever values your club 
uses into cells B2 and B3.
I've asked my club's scorer for his pursuit race start time spreadsheet, and 
will put it on my Google drive when I get it, and notify you.
Cheers,
Randy
From: "Kevin Driscoll" 
To: "RANDY" , "cnc-list" 
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 9:13:09 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

Thanks everybody. Randy, if it were not too much trouble it would be great to 
see your spreadsheet. Dennis sent one that I could definitely use too. I have 
this great IRC version, but it doesn't apply for PHRF.  Regatta Rasta man is 
pay to play so I am going to pass on that. We'll be doing time on distance with 
the course set up ahead of thin time.Keep sharing your experience of you have 
more to add. Thanks again everyone!
On Mon, Oct 10, 2016, 6:39 PM RANDY  wrote:
Yeah we just had one yesterday.  Start times per PHRF rating were calculated 
using TOT (A=715, B=515) assuming a two-hour race.  We just race laps around 
three pre-designated marks in our lake.  90 minutes into the race, the next 
mark ahead for the lead boat becomes the last mark everybody has to round.  We 
don't use an RC boat for this; starting at the right time is an honor system 
(and the finish order is obvious; no correction needed).  We use a pair of 
no-wake-zone buoys as the start line, and the marina channel markers as the 
finish line.  You can see our SIs here, including a table of start times per 
PHRF rating (assuming a 2:00 p.m. start for the first (slowest) boat racing) - 
https://csyc.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/CSYC-2016-PursuitRace.pdf.  I don't 
have the spreadsheet that was used to figure these start times, but I could 
probably get it if you want it.
Cheers,Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC 30-1 #7Ken Caryl, CO
From: "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List" 
To: "C List" 
Cc: "Kevin Driscoll" 
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 5:16:20 PM
Subject: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

Has anyone been organized and been Race Committee for a 'Pursuit Race'before? I 
am curious how you went about it. 
Obviously there is some calculation of start times in relation to each boat's 
rating. These are our contestants. I figure there will be three starts. 1 for 
the 'Level' racers, 1 for 'No Score' racers, and another for PHRF, i.e. the 
Pursuit racers. This is the first race in our winter series, which runs till 
March. We thought we might kick it off with a fun race format. Thanks for your 
input!
Kevin 30-2
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Re: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Kevin

OR you could get www.regattaman.com to do it for you..check out their 
website and in the calendar headingfind the Great Chase Race...see how 
they did results for about 120 boats.September 10th 

You can also check out scratch sheets and sailing instructions at the same link.


Great fun

Ron C.


Get Outlook for Android






On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 8:34 PM -0400, "tom via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










Kevin,We do this at Raritan Yacht Club once a year for one of our long distance 
(20 mi) races. We require sign up one day in  advance and figure ahead the 
handicap times for that distance. Pick an easy starting GPS time ( 11:00 hrs or 
similar) and set each boats star accordingly. The race committee assists by 
verbally counting down the last few sec for each start.  Any boat that starts 
prior to their time gets a 5 min penalty for each part of a minute they are 
ocs. The finishes are very interesting.Tom33-1
On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 7:16 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Has anyone been organized and been Race Committee for a 'Pursuit Race' before? 
I am curious how you went about it. 
Obviously there is some calculation of start times in relation to each boat's 
rating. These are our contestants. I figure there will be three starts. 1 for 
the 'Level' racers, 1 for 'No Score' racers, and another for PHRF, i.e. the 
Pursuit racers. This is the first race in our winter series, which runs till 
March. We thought we might kick it off with a fun race format. Thanks for your 
input!
Kevin 30-2

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Re: Stus-List Nexus multi instrument

[rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Gary, you might try Chicago Marine Electronics..they had a Nexus specialist 
and sold parts and systemsI haven't used them for several years but they 
were very helpful.Sorry I don't have their contact info any more.
Ron C.


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: ed vanderkruk via CnC-List 
 Date: 10/5/16  3:03 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: ed vanderkruk  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Nexus multi instrument 
You might try comnavmarine.com .. I got a spare original series NX depth 
transducer they were clearing out a number of years ago. Still a spare ... they 
old stuff still working. 
Ed
Prime Interest

Toronto 

On Oct 2, 2016 4:31 PM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List"  
wrote:
Do any of you have or know of an early Nexus Multi instrument? One of mine 
decided to freeze on depth ignoring all else. Would like to replace it.

Gary Nylander

gnylan...@atlanticbb.net









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Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Thanks Rick


If I  decide to switch, I would likely do the 46 size.it just fits on the 
coaming top and should have the power for the 150..


We sailed in the ONE Regatta over the weekend and both days started out below 
8kts but built to just over 15kts by the finish..that's definitely very 
near the limit for my 150, but we only had 4 crew and changing down to the 135 
was never an option..


I'm still unsure how to select the Pontos winch type,  the "trimmer" is 
suggested as more powerful.but the "grinder" is supposed to be 
faster..we definitely needed both yesterday.


And my useage is only for Genoa work..halyards and such are no problem at 
this time.


Thanks again

Ron


Get Outlook for Android






On Sat, Aug 27, 2016 at 10:31 PM -0400, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
 wrote:












I got the power ratio numbers from the winch performance information for the 
Grinder 40 on the Defender website.

 

I see that 1st & 2nd gears on the Trimmer are the same as 3rd & 4th on the 
Grinder.

 

14 CM  of line recovery per handle revolution in the fastest gear for the 
Trimmer. One of the metric folks on the list help me… that’s, what, 5.5 inches? 
And 1.4 CM in the lowest gear is about 6/10ths of an inch per revolution?

 

Max working load is 1870 pounds for both the Grinder & Trimmer. I wonder what 
the sheet loads are on a 155 on a 38 mk2 in 15 knots of true wind? According to 
the Harken calculator, for my 135 in 20 knots apparent (which is around 13 or 
14 true) the sheet load is 969 pounds.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2016 5:50 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

I am not sure where Rick got his numbers.  I looked into this recently after an 
elbow injury made me consider replacing my Baronet 28s.  The Pontos Trimmer 4 
speed ($1600) has a power ratio of 113 in its maximum power gear.  If I replace 
my winches at some point, that is what I am planning to use.  Dave

 

On Aug 26, 2016, at 10:29 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

Yes the Pontos 4 speed 40 is $1600. (Which, BTW is $300 more than a Lewmar 
Ocean 40 and $600 more than a Lewmar EVO 40) And it gets line in fast. And it 
shifts gears automatically at a comfortable 25 pounds on the winch handle. But…

 

The ultimate power ratio in the lowest gear is still a 40 – which means it has 
the same power as the Barient 24 that came as the halyard winch on my 38. (And 
that I have installed as primaries on my C)

 

Ron, you indicated dissatisfaction with how hard it is to grind in your 155 
with the current Barient 28’s. The current Barient 28’s have a power ratio of 
52 – the same as the Pontos 52’s that sell at Defender for $3400 each.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

Dr. David Knecht

Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology

Core Microscopy Facility Director

University of Connecticut  

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

Storrs, CT 06269

860-486-2200

 




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Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh...have you seen any pricing for the 4 speeds?  Ron

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2016 12:41 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

Those 4 speed auto jobs shift at roughly a comfortable 25 lbs!

Josh

On Aug 26, 2016 12:35 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

One occasionally sees Barient 36's on EBay for a grand or so each. The 36
has a power ratio of around 62, which according to the Harken formula I
mentioned would bring the force on the end of the winch handle to about 55
pounds for my 135. 

 

The Lewmar EVO65ST's on Defender at a bit under $3k each would be pricey
(though a lot less than Harkens), but would do the job you want.

 

You can buy Barient 32 non-self-tailers on EBay pretty reasonably. And get
32ST conversion kits from Winchmate for $650 per winch. So you might be able
to put 32ST's in place of the 28ST's for something like $2500 all up. The
bases on my 32s are almost the same diameter as the 28s. Move the 28s and
use them for your spinnaker - for which they work well.

 

I have the same situation as you do with the lifelines being close to the
winches. So I use the double grip winch handles for trimming to assist the
grinder. Don't do diddly for single handing. I did move my stanchions out to
the toerail, which made for slightly more clearance, but using a long winch
handle is still problematic.

 

Have you thought about using some of your resources to recruit a couple of
"winch apes" from a local college, rather than spending big bucks to upgrade
the winches? Tell them it's cross-fit training and will get them a spot on
one of those TV reality shows.

 

Some old information from Harken indicated that the  average male could
exert a max of around 50 pounds in a horizontal direction, about 75-100
pulling up, and 125-150 pulling down (IIRC, Though I'm certain of the 50
pound number). The information about selecting winches from the Harken site
currently recommends keeping the force level around 35 for longer term
comfort and a mixed sex crew.

 

BTW, the formula on the Harken Website is:

 

(Sail Area X 6) / Power ratio = Force or(Sail Area X 6)
/force = power ratio

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc-
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> list.com] On Behalf Of rjcasciato via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2016 11:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: rjcasciato <rjcasci...@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

Thanks Rick and Josh...

 

To correct my earlier post...my current winches are Barient 28ST's.the
width of the winch coming is 9" and the winch base measures at 8.5" now.
The lower life line is about 9" from the center of the winch...

 

So the situation on by boat is.she is set up to race only.she was
sailed by a nice old couple on the way to church once a week during the mid
80's up to 1997.  When I bought her in 1997, I started an almost annual
process of upgrading .the boat now not only looks great, but races very
well to her rating in PHRF.

These winches are original to the boat (1977) and have been rebuilt at least
once by me

 

We sail with a Pentax 155 and a full batten main .also a 135 and a 110.

 

It takes a gorilla to bring the 155 in when tacking in anything over 8kts.

 

I like the idea of longer handles but there's the issue of hitting the
lifelines, etc.

 

I just think it's time to move on to a modern winch..

Harken is the obvious choice, but I thought there might be an alternative to
their pricing..

Weight is also a religion on my boat, so big heavy and chrome don't make
it

 

Thanks again 

Ron

 

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 Original message 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 

Date: 8/26/16 12:18 AM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net> 

Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII 

 

38ST's? Those must be huge.

 

I replaced the old Merriman 33 primaries on Imzadi with Barient 32s
(equivalent to Anderson/Lewmar/Harken 58 or 56), and I'm in the process of
upgrading to 32ST's to make single handing easier. 

 

But even with these big winches cranking in the 155 was a chore. The 135
headsail I now use is easier, but I can't imagine that I would want anything
smaller unless I was limiting the size of the headsail to 100 or 110 and not
going out in winds of 20 apparent or more. 

 

I've tried using the Barient 28 secondaries (equivalent to Harken 52s) to
trim the headsail a few times. The bigger winched are noticeably easier.

 

Harken recommends a formula based on sail area to calcu

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Thanks Rick and Josh...
To correct my earlier post...my current winches are Barient 28ST's.the 
width of the winch coming is 9" and the winch base measures at 8.5" now.  The 
lower life line is about 9" from the center of the winch...
So the situation on by boat is.she is set up to race only.she was 
sailed by a nice old couple on the way to church once a week during the mid 
80's up to 1997.  When I bought her in 1997, I started an almost annual process 
of upgrading .the boat now not only looks great, but races very well to her 
rating in PHRF.These winches are original to the boat (1977) and have been 
rebuilt at least once by me
We sail with a Pentax 155 and a full batten main .also a 135 and a 110.
It takes a gorilla to bring the 155 in when tacking in anything over 8kts.
I like the idea of longer handles but there's the issue of hitting the 
lifelines, etc.
I just think it's time to move on to a modern winch..Harken is the obvious 
choice, but I thought there might be an alternative to their pricing..Weight is 
also a religion on my boat, so big heavy and chrome don't make it
Thanks again Ron



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 8/26/16  12:18 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: 
Stus-List New Subject.  Winch replacement for a C 38MKII 
38ST’s? Those must be huge. I replaced the old Merriman 33 primaries on Imzadi 
with Barient 32s (equivalent to Anderson/Lewmar/Harken 58 or 56), and I’m in 
the process of upgrading to 32ST’s to make single handing easier.  But even 
with these big winches cranking in the 155 was a chore. The 135 headsail I now 
use is easier, but I can’t imagine that I would want anything smaller unless I 
was limiting the size of the headsail to 100 or 110 and not going out in winds 
of 20 apparent or more.  I’ve tried using the Barient 28 secondaries 
(equivalent to Harken 52s) to trim the headsail a few times. The bigger winched 
are noticeably easier. Harken recommends a formula based on sail area to 
calculate the target power ratio of new winches. Based on a 400 sq. ft. 
headsail (100% on our boats) and a pull of 35 pounds on the winch handle, 
Harken 68’s are the right size for our boats. My 135 is 562 sq. ft., which 
means the load on the end of the winch handle can be as high as 60 pounds with 
my current winches. I’d definitely stick with the big winches. So why are you 
replacing your big winches? Are they worn out beyond redemption? Rick 
BrassImzadi  C 38 mk 2la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1Washington, NC  From: 
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rjcasciato via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2016 10:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rjcasciato <rjcasci...@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII Hoping 
there is some help and advice out there among the group. I’m going to replace 
my primary winches on Impromptu over the winter.  Currently, I have a pair of 
Barient 38ST’s.  While I think it would be nice to try a 3 speed…….I’m sure 
that price is prohibitive. So given the size of the current winches.who has 
had some good experience with other manufacturers and keeping value in mind, 
any recommendations. The boat is used primarily for PHRF racing………but like most 
of , the crew is aging gracefully………..and I’d like to keep it that way. Thanks 
for your input and insight. Ron C.ImpromptuC 38MKIIC…..’77___

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Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Hoping there is some help and advice out there among the group.

 

I'm going to replace my primary winches on Impromptu over the winter.
Currently, I have a pair of Barient 38ST's.  While I think it would be nice
to try a 3 speed...I'm sure that price is prohibitive.

 

So given the size of the current winches.who has had some good
experience with other manufacturers and keeping value in mind, any
recommendations.

 

The boat is used primarily for PHRF racing...but like most of , the crew is
aging gracefully.and I'd like to keep it that way.

 

Thanks for your input and insight.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C 38MKIIC...'77

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Re: Stus-List Wednesday Night racing

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

We race every Wed. Night for over 20 years and counting.last 12 yrs on C 
38 MKII
Ron C.
- Original Message -
From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard 
Sent: Mon, 11 Jul 2016 02:22:14 - (UTC)
Subject: Stus-List Wednesday Night racing

I'm curious: How many of you guys race every Wednesday night? 


Antoine said : "I do have the shoal draft version (4? 3") and race it 
every Wednesday in our club"

I do too. 

We look forward to it all week :-)  It's a great break in the middle of 
the week and a good place to meet like minded sailors.. 


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA






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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 126, Issue 10

[Rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Why is anyone still reading emails posted on the digest without a subject
heading?  I automatically delete such postings.

 

Ron C.

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of demojo58
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2016 1:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: demojo58
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 126, Issue 10

 

Thanks Mike dont know if I have the same set up as I have never noticed a
bolt coming thru my cb although the top of my cable has a swaged fitting
with a hole where the rope connects to it

 

John cnc 32 

Pasadena Md.

 

 

 

 

Sent from Samsung tablet




 Original message 
>From cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
Date: 07/04/2016 5:41 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject CnC-List Digest, Vol 126, Issue 10 



 

 

 

Hello, I have a cnc 32cb and my cable broke inside the hole cut out on the
trailing edge of the centerboard does anyone know how the cable attaches to
the board

 

Sent from Samsung tablet

Just put up my main sail for the 1st time today.  I've never had a boat with
a back stay.  On my 1988 C 30MKII sail hits the leach.   How's that
supposed to work? 

The wind should push the leach past the backstay.  If not you can usually
shake the backstay (fore and aft) and the addition of wind will push the
leach past.  Otherwise, just let the traveler down.

Keep and eye on the leach for wear. 

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jul 4, 2016 3:36 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Just put up my main sail for the 1st time today.  I've never had a boat with
a back stay.  On my 1988 C 30MKII sail hits the leach.   How's that
supposed to work? 


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are greatly appreciated!

Are you sure it's hitting the backstay, or is it hitting the (main boom)
topping lift?  It's relatively common for topping lifts to interfere with
main leeches.  After raising the main you need to ease the topping lift
enough for the leech to clear it.  If you get a rigid vang you don't need a
topping lift, and they are generally a PITA.  But if your boat didn't have a
backstay, its mast would fall over forward.

 

Cheers,

Randy

 

  _  

From: "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list" 
Cc: "Lorne Serpa" 
Sent: Monday, July 4, 2016 1:35:35 PM
Subject: Stus-List Embarrassing... But sail leach hits back stay.

 

Just put up my main sail for the 1st time today.  I've never had a boat with
a back stay.  On my 1988 C 30MKII sail hits the leach.   How's that
supposed to work?


___

 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!

 

When the main is full, the leach probably won't hit the back-stay.  If it
does, it will get past the back-stay when you tack, except in very light
air.  In that case, you might have to let out the traveler, or as a last
resort, lower the sail until it clears, and then raise it.  Another thing
you can do, is tighten the back-stay.  That will pull the top of the mast
back, giving you more clearance.  Mine is the same way.

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

On Mon, Jul 4, 2016 at 12:35 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List
 wrote:

Just put up my main sail for the 1st time today.  I've never had a boat with
a back stay.  On my 1988 C 30MKII sail hits the leach.   How's that
supposed to work? 


___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!

 

Lorne,

 

Get out the roach spray!  As others have said, not a big deal. Your main has
some extra roach. Both of my mains do also. Wouldn't have it any other way. 

 

The only time it will be an issue is light air. Then, like others have
suggested, give the back stay a whack, drop the traveler or ease the sheet. 

 

Some sport boats have a lot of extra roach. Look for rigs that have a spring
crane? that lifts and pulls aft the back stay to allow the main to pass. Not
sure if crane is the right term. 

Again a caution to all about sailing with a wire topping lift. They will
chafe the batten pockets a you'll eject a batten. They don't float. 

 

Dennis C.

Touché 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA


Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 4, 2016, at 2:35 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
wrote:

Just put up my main sail for the 1st time today.  I've never had a boat with
a back stay.  On my 1988 C 30MKII sail hits the leach.   How's that
supposed to work? 

Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Edd..

My simple thinking is that you have to roll up at least the length of the
foot of the 150.  So why not measure the sail and then mark the line and
wind that much onto the drum.  When you put the sail back on, puling on the
line should wind it up correctly

 

I probably would add a foot or two just in case

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C 38MKIIC...77

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2016 8:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

 

Listers,

 

My roller furling line got ultra-tangled in the drum and I ended up having
to drop the headsail and cut it all out. 

 

I bought some new line and am going to install tomorrow, weather permitting.


 

So here's the question. How many feet of line should I have wrapped around
the drum before putting the sail back on? 

 

I'm running with a 135% headsail, but want to have enough on there to
accommodate a 150, if I ever make a change. 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

---

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

NCC-1701-B

C 37+ | City Island, NY

www.StarshipSailing.com

---

914.332.4400  | Office

914.774.9767  | Mobile

---

Sent via iPhone 6

iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

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Re: Stus-List Fw: What are these?

[Rjcasciato via CnC-List]

So Allendid you buy a set of genoa cars at some time?  Sounds like they
are the shipping bars to keep the ball bearings in place while you transfer
them to the real track.

Ron C.

Impromptu 

C 38MKIIC..'77

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of allen via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2016 11:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: allen
Subject: Stus-List Fw: What are these?

 


 

From: allen   

Sent: Friday, June 03, 2016 7:01 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: What are these?

 

While cleaning out Septima I came across these two pieces of what appear to
be aluminum track.  They are 11" long, 1.25" wide and 5/16" deep.  There's a
groove down the center lengthwise on on side and a 3/4" raised portion down
the other side.

There is 5/8" tape wrapped 3/4" in from one end on each of these.  I had
pix, but they were too big for email

 

Anyone know what they are and what they're use for? 

 

 

Allen Miles

S/V Septima

Hampton. VA

 

Tight schedule and lousy weather this week has kept me from hooking up
Septima's new fuel tank.  Will try and get that done tomorrow so we can
shakedown.

 

 

Your message is ready to be sent with the following file or link
attachments:
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sending or receiving certain types of file attachments.  Check your e-mail
security settings to determine how attachments are handled. 

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Re: Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?

[Rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Plus 2 for removing the dorade boxes...by now they are old and decrepit, not
to mention obsolete.I did mine a year ago and installed 2 Nicro solar
vents right where the original holes were.one did end up right over the
head.  The other one is in the passage way from the main cabin area to the
forepeak.the deck is a lot cleaner looking and they work great.Pictures
available on request...seems that I don't know how to post pictures on this
list.according to the moderator.

 

Best,

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C 38MKIIC...'77

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Miles via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2016 8:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Miles
Subject: Re: Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?

 

Thx Mike. I'll have a look.

We were just discussing the idea last weekend, so they may well be helpful,
if not too much trouble.

Did they make the difference you were hoping for?

 

Be safe.

 

Best regards,

 

David Miles

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Persuasion37 via CnC-List
Sent: June-01-16 5:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Persuasion37
Subject: Re: Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?

 

Hey Dave

 

Just checked my blog (persuasion37.com) and if you look at the cover photo
and one posted May 17/15 you can see the vents.  If you would like close ups
and more in depth pics I'll get them when I get home.

 

Mike

Persuasion

C 37 K/CB

Long Sault

 

Sent from my iPad


On Jun 1, 2016, at 8:11 PM, David Miles via CnC-List 
wrote:

Do you have some pictures you can post of the Vent Fans Mike?

 

Best regards,

 

David Miles

Impulse

C 30-2

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Persuasion37 via CnC-List
Sent: June-01-16 2:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Persuasion37
Subject: Re: Stus-List Vent Fans -- Where Do You Have Them?

 

On Persuasion the cowls were removed and solar vents installed.  Over the
galley sink another was installed.

 

Mike

Persuasion

C 37 K/CB

Long Sault


Sent from my iPad


On Jun 1, 2016, at 1:37 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List
 wrote:

Listers,

 

After launching the Enterprise last week, we undertook a several-day battle
of cleaning up mold and mildew that formed over the winter season. See:
https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-atTOVzKTiJ4/V070NXLN-NI/CbI/L4P1kYqh0DAJw
5J-vDUC2nFRCCXe4OtHgCLcB/s1600/madkirk.jpg 

 

It's time for one (or two) of those solar vent fans. The question I have for
the collective wisdom of the group is, if you have installed them, where do
you have them? How hard was it to install? I cringe at the idea of drilling
a 3-4 inch hole in the deck, but also am not crazy about reducing natural
light by putting one into a hatch. Any ideas and experience is welcome. 

 

. except for that guy who is not an engineer... 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 








 






 

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are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Rjcasciato via CnC-List]

HI Mike:

You or your sailmaker can fabricate one..in my case, I bought a
piece of 1" wide nylon web strapfor of like the sail ties material.
Then I found at West Marine 2 stainless rings about 2" in diameter???/
(Bigger than your sail cringle)I put one ring on the strap and fed both
pieces of the strap through the cringleon the other side, I put the
second ring on and then overlapped the two ends about an inch and stitched
then together with heavy waxed whipping line.I Found a nifty hand
stitcher at Harbor Freight for a couple of bucks and that made it easy.

So the finished product looks like a floppy dogbone with one ring on each
side..that ring simply gets hooked over the reefing hook on the boom end
and you're all set to haul up the main halyard..

You'll figure out that after you reef the leech of the sail, you may need to
readjust the halyard, but that's boat dependant and crew savvy

Good luck,

Ron

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Crombie via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 9:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

Hi Ron,

You refer to a  "strap loop" that goes through the tack cringle.  I think
this is exactly what i'm missing! Where do I get one of these? Or how do I
make one? 

For the past two years i've just been trying to hook the cringle onto the
reefing hook on the boom...this doesn't work very well and it can damage the
sail.

Thanks,

Mike
Atacama 33 mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Josh:

If what you're trying to do is use one line to reef both the tack and clew
of the Mainthat's a lot of force needed for a single line.  What's
commonly done is to make up a "strap loop" probably 6" long with stainless
rings at each end and fed through the tack grommet before sewing the loop
closed.Then on the top side of the gooseneck fitting, install a reefing hook
..Then the line reefing is used for the clew portion of the main and when it
comes time to reef, you simply lower the main and drop one of the rings over
the reefing hook. The other ring keeps the loop from pulling through the
cringle.  Then tighten the halyard again.

 

Then use the clew reefing line to set the final sail shape.

 

The fitting that mounts on the gooseneck is like this one...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-3-8-Reefing-Hook-Sailboat-Sailing-Hardware
-Schaefer-Marine-54-21-New-/172132586166?hash=item2813e6d2b6:g:-TwAAOSwwpdW5
YT9
 =mtr  

 

Best,

 

Ron Casciato

 

 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 2:24 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

 

Awesome guys!  Thanks everyone for the input.  It looks like "that's just
the way it is".  Nobody in the industry has necessarily come up with
anything earth shatteringly better. 

As I think I eluded to earlier, I'm averse to whimsically drilling holes in
the boom.   Besides, I'm not sure a track or block necessarily looks cleaner
so I'll probably stick with a tied on method.  

Does anybody have any thoughts on using a  soft shackle and an eye splice to
attach the reefing lines around the boom?

I was also considering a single line reefing system.  One challenge is that
where most setups have the line exit the boom at the mast and turn up to the
reef cringle, my boom is solid on top AND my aversion to drilling holes
extends to the mast as well.  So if I tried a single line reef, it would
have the line turn down to the mast collar (like it did previously) but
instead of simply running back to the cabin (winch and jammer), the line
would run back up to the reef cringle, and back down on the other side of
the boom to another turning block which would lead back to the winch and
cleat where it would finish.

Thoughts on my plan?

Thoughts on single line reefing?  I've heard some pretty strong arguments
against and only a few advocates.

Thanks again, 
Josh

On Apr 8, 2016 1:49 PM, "Martin DeYoung via CnC-List"
 wrote:

>...1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom...

Calypso's boom has a similar T track on each side of the boom.  I still tie
the reefing lines around the boom and have seen very little paint wear.

The tracks on Calypso's boom were installed long ago and may also act as
stiffeners as the mid boom main sheet attachments are near the tracks.

Best regards,

Martin
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robbie
Epstein via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 7:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robbie Epstein
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

My 40 has a 1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom with a
Schaefer Jiffy reef slide/bail that slides up and down the track so you can
position the clew attachment point for multiple mainsail reef points.  The
reefing line goes through a hook that you use to select which reefing
cringle you want to use.

Robbie Epstein

1980 C 40


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails

[Rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Andrew:

 

Definitely ask for the Cunningham ring..it should be an easy
addition

 

AS far as the sail slugs goI strongly recommend looking at the Tides
Marine Strong Trackit is a nylon/Delrin track that slides up inside your
original sail slot and the slugs are now polished stainless that slide very
easily up and down..on my 38MKII, with a luff of 45', I can raise the
main to within about 6 feet of the masthead before using the winch to get it
trimmed...

 

https://www.tidesmarine.com/sailtrack   

 

Considering that your crew may be short on numbers and skill, that one item
made my 38 a simple dream to operate.even my wife can raise it most of
the way up herself.

 

I did the track install myself in 1998 and it is still intact and working
great today..

 

I'm not sure of the pricing, but since your Rolly Tasker representative is
in Florida??? So is Tides MarineI'm sure they know each other.  The sail
does have to have the slugs installed when they make it..you could do it
yourself, but your sailmaker is equipped to do it better..

 

My $0.50 worth,

 

Best

Ron C

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 25, 2016 9:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails

 

My 135 came from There. I am very pleased with it and would not hesitate to
buy from them again. The flow stripes are also known as draft stripes.  Just
colored tape to let you see how much of a belly you having your sail

 

Joel 

On Friday, March 25, 2016, Andrew Means via CnC-List 
wrote:

Hey all - 

 

As part of the long list of refinements and upgrades we need to make on the
Safari, we're looking at getting a new main sail from Rolly Tasker via
National Sails in FL. Here's the details of the quote:

 

C 34 (Does anybody feel like confirming that I've got these measurements
correct?)

I = 44'

J = 14

P = 38.25

E  = 10.92

 

Fully Battened Mainsail - Challenge 8.3oz High Modulus Dacron, 2 reefs -
$1,459

Comes with leech lines with clam cleats, tell tales, flo-stripes*, and sail
bags. Construction includes triple-stitched seams, large radial corner
reinforcements, with handsewn leather chafe protection.

 

Seems like 8 out of 10 folks have overall positive experience with RT sails.
There are scattered reports of quality issues, but I'm inclined to see that
as a risk of any production sail loft. Have any of you ordered from them
before? What's been your experience? I'm inquiring about adding a cunningham
and seeing what our options are for the slugs. Are there other options you'd
recommend I request? 

 

Before anybody suggests I go to a custom sailmaker to get a super high
quality sail, the price is really what we can afford right now; if we need
to spend more money to get a decent sail then we'll have to wait another
season or two to replace our (very tired) main. Willing to do that if enough
folks wave us off RT, but hoping this could be a great solution for our
casual cruising needs!

 

Andrew

 

*What the heck are Flo-Stripes?

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 MK I

Seattle, WA



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Running lines aft to cockpit on C 34

[Rjcasciato via CnC-List]

HI Andrew...Welcome to this list.  Everything you ever wanted to know is
located here.   Probably about anything.

 

My first thoughts about your boom and mast rigging are that it is very
complicated.  Try to keep it simple and you will sail safer regardless of
crew skill.  I'd take Dennis' ideas seriously; he's usually on his game for
this stuff.

 

My 38MKII has no lines on the boom .the outhaul goes inside as does the
reefing line, but you don't need a new boom to do that.  Both feed to the
mast; and you already have a block up under the mast that could become a
triple if that one has to stayrun them down to the deck and out through
another deck organizer on the other side..and back to the cockpit.

 

I'm not near my boat at this time, but I may have some pictures that I could
send as well.

 

We race the 38MKII, and when we cruise, it's almost singlehandable (that's a
new word)my crew would get lost with what you have on the boom sides.

 

More later,

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

38MKIIC..'77

 

Did I miss it or do you not have a boom vang?

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Means via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2016 11:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Means
Subject: Stus-List Running lines aft to cockpit on C 34

 

Hi all - First time poster here, so let me know if I'm doing any of this
incorrectly. Brief introduction: my name is Andrew Means, I own the S.V.
Safari, a C 34 MKI moored on Lake Union in Seattle, WA, with three of my
friends. We sail the Safari-mostly casually-around the Puget Sound region.
You can see a pic of the Safari here: http://imgur.com/OdrC0Bk

 

Now to the questions: I'm in the process of reworking my running rigging and
I'm curious to see how other C 34 owners run lines aft to the cockpit.
Which lines do you run? How do you get them aft? Which do you consider the
most important to have in the cockpit?

 

I've been looking through pictures of C 34s online (mostly found in
for-sale listings) and trying to get a handle on the best way to run our
main sheet, vang (to be installed), reefing lines, topping lift, outhaul,
etc.. I think I have resigned myself to the fact that with our boom
(original to the boat) we probably aren't going to be able to have the
reefing lines run aft to the cockpit because they run externally on the port
side of the boom and a swinging boom would tigthen/loosen them if they were
run back to a turning block on the mast.

 

Priorities:

We are generally casual cruisers, often with inexperienced crew. Safety
while reefing is a big priority, but as noted above I don't see how we can
run the lines back to the cockpit without a completely new boom with
internal reefing lines. Prove me wrong?

 

Here's the state of the union:

 

Boom, Port Side - http://i.imgur.com/yTDeEWR.jpg

The 1st and 2nd reefing lines terminate on the boom. Topping lift is
currently cleated mid-boom, which is super annoying. It would be nice to
have the topping lift  run aft. I've been told that the cam cleats are not
suitable for cleating reefing lines (and I agree, as they've slipped out
before).

 

Boom, Starboard Side - http://i.imgur.com/ixYRPwy.jpg

Outhaul, flattening reef.

 

Mast Base, Port Side - http://i.imgur.com/7kozeHd.jpg

Deck organizer currently has main halyard (red fleck) and main sheet (blue
fleck). Main halyard enters the mast just below the gooseneck.

 

Mast Base, Starboard Side - http://i.imgur.com/XTkuphN.jpg

Our Jib Halyard is going to be replaced and we're going to get a haylard bag
on the mast. We'll also likely remove some of this deck hardware (that aft
winch will be moved to the starboard side of the companionway to handle
other lines.)

 

Cabintop cleats & winch (port) - http://i.imgur.com/DHavs7p.jpg

I'm replacing these abominations with a proper triple rope clutch, forward
of the winch.

 

Well, what do you folks think? For cruising around Puget Sound, San Juans,
etc. and a little bit of beer can racing, how would you set this up? Pics of
your own setup would be hugely appreciated, especially if you've got a C
34 or something of similar vintage!

 

Thanks in advance for the advice, looking forward to knowing other C
owners!

 

Andrew

 

-- 
Andrew Means

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