Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Charging Problem

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Thanks for your suggestions.

FYI -
The panel surface is clean.
IIRC, the batteries were at about 90%, based on my Balmar SOC display; a 12.7 
volt reading
There is a controller - it's a Renogy 20 PWM.

I'll check the incoming voltage at the controller.
Not sure how to check voltage "right at the panel".  I thought the panel could 
be damaged if unplugged from the controller, while in sunlight.
I'll get re-acquainted with the controller manual, too.

Thanks,

Pete W.

Siren Song
'91 C 30-2
Deltaville, VA.

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Stus-List Solar Panel Charging Problem

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

While yesterday was a bright, sunny day, I noticed that my 100 watt panel was 
barely providing any power to my batteries.
Bought from Amazon, this panel [KingSolar, probably Chinese] was purchased and 
installed in August, 2019.
I checked the MC connectors, they were OK.
Can anyone share their experiences with trouble-shooting solar panel issues?

Thanks,

Pete W.

Siren Song
'91 C 30-2
Deltaville, VA.
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Stus-List Which metal should I use as a sacrificial anode?

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Throughout my boating "career", I have also used ZINC for protecting prop and 
shaft.  I sail the Virginia portion of Chesapeake Bay where the further north 
you go, the more brackish the water becomes.
In looking to order anodes through Defender, I noticed their comment about 
ALUMINUM being longer lasting in salt and brackish waters [than ZINC].

I'd like to get both max protection AND max life out of my anodes.  For those 
who sail in salty or brackish waters, which metal  are you all using, and 
what's been the longevity?

Fair Winds,

Pete W.
Siren Song
'91 C
Deltaville, Va.




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Stus-List Stuffing Box Material - Looking for Feedback on "Duramax Ultra"

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Hello Listers,
I need to address a leaking stuffing box on my 30-2.
Recently, I found this product - Duramax Ultra.
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/product-resources/johnson-duramax/duramaxultra-xhighperformancecompressionpacking-pdf

The brochure sounds like what I need.  Anyone using this stuff?  If so, can you 
share your experience?  How long can you go before renewing the packing?

Thanks,

Pete W.

Siren Song
91 C
Deltaville, Va.
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Stus-List Winter Cover Measurements for C 30-2

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Hey fellow C listers,
Does anyone use a winter cover on their boat?  If so, would you have its 
measurements handy to share?

Thanks!

Pete W.
1991 C
Siren Song

Deltaville, Va.
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Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Thanks guys!  I appreciate the guidance very much.

Pete W.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sunday, September 8, 2019 4:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 164, Issue 14

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: 
Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Water Tank Woes [again] - Welding Question (Robert Boyer)
   2.  Water Tank Woes [again] - Welding Question (Dreuge)
   3. Re:  Water Tank Woes [again] - Welding Question (bwhitmore)


--

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2019 12:54:06 -0400
From: Robert Boyer 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes [again] - Welding Question
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

It is not simply high or low density?the tank was made from LLDPE and rods must 
be the same material.

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Sep 7, 2019, at 8:48 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The tank was made from LLDPE.  Make sure your weld rods are the exact same 
> material!
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD
> (Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)
> 
>> On Sep 6, 2019, at 6:31 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> My water tank is leaking again. I want to attempt a weld to repair it.
>>  
>> It is a Kracor polypropylene tank, but the labeling details have faded over 
>> time, and no longer legible.  I don?t know what kind of polypropylene was 
>> used to construct the tank.
>>  So, the question is, do I use hi-density OR lo-density polypropylene?  Or, 
>> does it matter?
>>  
>> Thanks!
>>  
>> Pete W.
>> Siren Song
>> C 30-2
>> Deltaville, Va. 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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--

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2019 17:32:36 -0400
From: Dreuge 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Water Tank Woes [again] - Welding Question
Message-ID: <99e9094b-77ec-4252-b559-486b46c02...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi Pete,

Plastic welding is the way to go.  I tried various ways to repair tanks, but my 
welded repairs (I fixed 3 tanks now by welding) have had no problems.  Plastic 
welding is rather easy to do.  The key is getting good plastic welding rods.   
I normally use a hot air welder, but if you are very careful, you can use make 
due with a propane torch.  Though I highly recommend borrowing or buying a 
welder.  Harbor Freight sells a reasonable welder for about $60, and since they 
always have 20-25% off coupons, it would cost about $45.

Small leaks are easy to fix.  If you have a more serious repair, like a long 
crack due to poor structural support, then repair and split it with some 316 
stainless mesh. 

I purchased a package of 1/8" LDPE welding rods from Grainger. As I recall, it 
was 50 rods for $15.   I also purchased 316 mesh from Grainger.

I have details on my blog. Below is the link.  Skip down to the section on 
plastic welding.

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/WaterTankRepair


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 7, 2019, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 22:31:13 +
> From: kelly petew mailto:kellype...@msn.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@

Stus-List Water Tank Woes [again] - Welding Question

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

My water tank is leaking again. I want to attempt a weld to repair it.

It is a Kracor polypropylene tank, but the labeling details have faded over 
time, and no longer legible.  I don't know what kind of polypropylene was used 
to construct the tank.
 So, the question is, do I use hi-density OR lo-density polypropylene?  Or, 
does it matter?

Thanks!

Pete W.
Siren Song
C 30-2
Deltaville, Va.
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Stus-List Solar Panel Project - Thanks for the advice

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

As always, this list is a great source of knowledge.  Thanks to all!!!

Pete W.
Siren Song
'91 C 30-2
Deltaville, Va.
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Stus-List Need Advice on Solar Panel project

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Hello, Listers,
I want to add a solar panel to keep my batteries more fully charged.
But on a 30 ft. C, space is somewhat limited.

For starting out, I want the smallest panel possible for battery maintenance, 
but I'd beef up the wiring to handle future power demands.
My house battery bank is 12volt DC, two 130 amp hour, deep cycle, wet-cells, in 
parallel.  My other bank is a hybrid deep cycle [80 amp hours], used for 
starting.
I've studied YouTube and other sources.  Also, I've tried to contact a west 
coast mfr., Renogy, but I can't reach anyone there, as yet.

Any and all feedback is much appreciated.

Fair Winds,

Pete W.
Siren Song
'91C 30-2
Deltaville, Va.


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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gm fuel pump seepage

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Dave, Hi,
I had same problem, and while the engine continued to run OK, I was getting a 
lot of fuel pooling under the engine.  
I think the source of the leak was the gasket, not the washers.  

I replaced the pump.  
I don't know your location, but I can recommend Bay Shore Marine in Annapolis 
as I've had good experiences with them, on OEM stuff.  
They are prompt and have a large parts inventory.  

At the time, the only source known to me was Torresen Marine, in upper 
mid-west.  They sent me the wrong parts, so I can't recommend them.

Whatever you do, make sure you get the right size banjo washers!!!  Good Luck!

Pete W. 
C 30-2
Siren Song
Deltaville, Va.  


Date: Thu, 9 May 2019 11:08:11 -0400
From: Dave S 
To: C Stus List 
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 2gm fuel pump seepage
Message-ID: <53ffe52b-2e67-498a-b642-39f244fe6...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

>From both pumps oddly enough

Lift pump seeps, appears to be gasket and or crush washers on banjo fitting.  
I?m wondering whether in addition to replacing the gaskets I should also 
replace the (still operating, likely original) pump for reliability?s sake.  
Thoughts?

High pressure pump has very minor seepage as well.Can?t see what?s causing 
it.  Any likely scenarios?

Many thanks!

Dave 33-2

Sent from my iPhone



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Stus-List Question about Maintaining DataMarine Knot meter's sending unit

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Hey Listers,
I have an old datamarine knot meter.
For 15 seasons, I have applied a heavy grease to the sending unit annually.  
That's it.
Never had a problem until last season when it briefly leaked just after launch. 
 Before I could take any action, the leak stopped.
But remembering this, this season, I decided to replace the two [2] "O" rings 
on the body of the sending unit.
But, being careful not to damage the sending unit, I have been unable to remove 
the old rings by hand.
Can everyone suggest a tool or technique for the removal of the O rings without 
risking damage?

Thanks!

Fair Winds,
Pete W.
Siren Song
C
Deltaville, Va.
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Stus-List Force 10 2 burner range

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

I have an owner's manual.  Let me know if anyone wants a copy.  Is it possible 
to place a pdf on the cncphotoalbum?

Pete W.

Siren Song
'91 C
#170
Deltaville, Va.

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Stus-List Donate to Stu's List - Get FREE stuff

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

In cleaning out the lazarette recently, I discovered a couple of items that may 
be useful to the listers here.


I have an aluminum radar reflector [approx. diameter = 12.5", and in very good 
condition] and a I have a new, still-in-the-box VETUS water-lock exhaust 
[approx. 8 1/4" H, 4 1/2" W, 14 1/4"L,  Intake = 50MM OD, Exit = 45MM OD].

I'm happy to package and ship if the recipient would kindly make a donation to 
this list, in the amount of the shipping cost.


Please contact me off list for details, if interested.


Thanks,


Pete W.

Siren Song

C

Deltaville, Va.
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Stus-List Looking for an LED fixture to replace Overhead Fluorescent lighting

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

the overhead fluorescent lighting [double tubes] in my 30MKII no longer works.  
Thinking the fluorescent tubes were my problem and wanting improved lighting in 
the saloon, I bought Marinebeam's t5 replacement tubes and re-wired the 
existing fixture to bypass the ballast.  However, it appears the FIXTURE is bad.



Can anyone recommend a replacement Fixture that will fit in the overhead liner 
[approx. dimensions = 5"W, 11 1/4"L, 15/16"D]??


Thanks,


Pete W.


Siren Song

C

Deltaville, Va.
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Stus-List How many shaft zincs?

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

I have always installed two [2] shaft zincs, at the beginning of sailing season.

For last two seasons, I've seen their deterioration accelerate in my marina, 
despite having a galvanic isolator on  board.


I know I need to find the stray current source.  That said, any thoughts on 
adding a third zinc as a measure of "insurance"?


thanks,


Pete W.

Siren Song

C

Deltaville, Va.


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Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic Rendezvous - Just a Thought

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Listers,

just a thought, but Annapolis can be a busy place in the fall, even after the 
boat shows.  It looks like that weekend's Navy football game is away, so this 
is good news for those attending by land.  However, I don't know about the 
Ravens, nor how their home games may affect the availability of Annapolis 
accommodations.


Perhaps, someone more familiar with the area can provide guidance.  Hope this 
helps.


Fair Winds,


Pete W.

Siren Song

C 30-2

Deltaville, Va.



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Stus-List Bosworth Y-valve

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Last season, I replaced my Bosworth Y-valve with the same model.  The handle 
broke off in my hand.  It was my fault - lack of lubrication.

I spoke directly with someone at Bosworth, but can't recall her name.  She was 
very helpful in making sure I got the correct valve.  I think I emailed pics to 
aid in selecting the correct valve.


While I was worried about the process of replacing the [probably original] 
valve, [e.g., limited access, the difficulty of removing the old part, etc.], 
it wasn't that hard.


Good luck with the project.


Pete W.

Siren Song

C 30 MKII

Deltaville, VA.
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Stus-List C 30 MKII - 3 questions

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

I've owned this model C for a long time.  Great sailing boat -- Rob Ball 
knows how to design capable sailboats!!!

Look for leaky portlights.  If replacing, go with more robust acrylic or 
plexi-glass lenses [not sure, but plexi may be preferable].

I'm almost 6'0", but v-berth is just doable, lengthwise.  Aft cabin is 
preferable, IMHO.
For a craft this length, the water and waste tanks are generous, but only for 
weekending or coastal cruising, IMHO.
Yanmar would be the preferred power plant, but it's "shoe-horned" into its 
compartment.  Maintenance/repairs can be a challenge.
You can get three [3] batteries onboard.
While the portside cockpit locker is "cavernous", Storage below for provisions, 
gear, spares is somewhat limited due to LOA.


Pete W.

Siren Song
'91 C 30MKII
Deltaville, Va.





Message: 2
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2017 11:27:53 -0400
From: mp...@aol.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C 30 MKII
Message-ID: <15f49d8eb7d-c0f-f...@webjas-vaa086.srv.aolmail.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Greetings,

New to the list and hoping to be a new owner for a C 30 MKii 1988. It is a 
nicely appointed sailboat in great shape for its age and no visible, walk away 
concerns.  I was hoping for comments from anyone with experience and insights 
to offer, peeves, joys etc.  that would be super appreciated.

3 quick questions though:

1) knowing the boat, what would be a definite concern that you would look at, 
stuff that has failed or gives grief?
2) The front berth dimension is difficult to assess but it is sufficient for a 
couple of average size, height?
3) Would you do a jump to the Caribbean from the ICW on such a boat?

Such a nice cruiser/racer though!

Thank you for any information you can share!

Maurice Poulin

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Stus-List Survey - C 30MKII - additional thoughts to share

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Lisle, Hi,

Recently, as current owner of a 30 mkII, I sent you a list of things to 
consider.
In response to your latest email below, I can share the following:

My boat's rudder is 'wet' also, based on moisture meter readings.
As others on this list have recommended, I will drill a hole in the rudder's 
bottom so any water can drain [plug it in the spring].
In nearly 14 years of owning my 30MKII [1991 vintage], this is the only action 
I've taken on this issue.
That said, I would recommend you check the rudderpost for a zerc fitting [a bit 
challenging to access from starboard cockpit locker].  Apply grease here 
annually.  This might help keep out the moisture.
Also, check the muffler.  Mine was metal, and it eventually corroded badly at 
the drain plug and leaked.  I replaced it with a fiberglass muffler [email me 
for details, if you like].
Also, if the surveyor didn't do this, remove the aft cabin flooring [behind the 
batteries], and check the strut bolts.  Mine are showing some rust stains, but 
I'm not seeing elevated moisture readings in that area of the hull.
I have always had some water in the bilge, from the mast.  Not a lot, but some 
[however, in a tropical storm, I would get a nearly FULL bilge].

Periodically, I get water intrusion [not a lot], below the hatches, both at the 
mast and in v-berth.  I think it's from the crazing of the lenses.  I am 
replacing them.
Last year, I had to replace the original water heater.
Currently, I'm dealing with a leak in the starboard water tank.  I think the 
leak is along a crack that started at the exit hole [aft end of tank].  This 
tank is easily removed, but it is proving challenging to repair.  I don't know 
about extracting the v-berth tank.

Good Luck!

Pete W.

Siren Song
1991 C
Deltaville, Va.










 Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2017 06:40:20 -0400
From: "Lisle Kingery, PhD" 
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List survey says...
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Hi all,

I've gotten the survey back on the 1987 30MKii I'm considering.

Above average condition overall, the surveyor was impressed by the
condition overall.

The rudder has significant water intrusion despite previous repairs, there
are slight depressions in the hull on the aft supports due to boat being on
the hard for over a year (surveyor thinks these will come out when launched
but need to address it now by putting wider pads), and there appear to be
two leaks - one at the forward hatch and one possibly around the mast
(there was a bit of water on the cushion just forward of the galley). Boat
has recent (2015) new sails, 2 new ST winches, and a new mast track.

FMV estimate is ~18% below asking price.

Given this, any final words of wisdom for me as try to negotiate a final
deal?

Thanks in advance.




Lisle

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Re: Stus-List Flourescent LED Lights

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Thanks to all for your feedback.


Great group!


Fair Winds,


Pete W.


Siren Song

'91 C

Deltaville, VA.
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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Anyone have any experiences to share with replacing your original fluorescents 
with LEDs?

Is it simply 'plug & play', i.e., old tube out, new LED tube into the existing 
fixture??


Thanks!!


Pete W.


Siren Song

'91 C 30-2

Deltaville, Va.
___

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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Sea Water pump - 2gm20f

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

check with Bay shore marine in Annapolis.


I bought the newer version recently and it was "plug & play" install.

This newer pump uses an "O" ring, not a gasket.


Pete W.

'91 C 30MKII

Deltaville, Va.

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Re: Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions (Chad Osmond)

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

I have a 30-2 and both my tanks have leaked.


The v-berth was easy as I simply replaced the gray, "RV-like" elbow with a 
BARBED 90 degree elbow, reinforced tubing, a SS clamp, and plumber's tape.

On the starboard tank, the exit hole for the fitting was leaking due to a 
hairline crack in the threading; and the crack had progressed several inches 
down the side and along the bottom of the tank.

I investigated a replacement tank, but Kracor no longer makes this tank.


Now, call me "Rube Goldberg", but here's what I did.

First, I treated the hairline crack with Capn Tolley's, from the outside, as 
the access plate opening was too small.

Then, on the OUTSIDE of the tank [both side and bottom], I applied a two-part 
glue from Tap Plastics [follow their video instructions at their website].

And finally, I installed a new, barbed fitting with tape.

So far, it's holding.

Note: Tap Plastics says their product hasn't been tested as safe for use on 
water tankage used for human consumption.


Good Luck,


Pete W.


Siren Song

'91 C 30-2

Deltaville, Va.



From: *Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *Monday, August 28, 2017 20:07
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *Chris Hobson 
> *Subject: *Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions
>
>
> Recently filled up the V birth water tank and discovered a slow leak

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Stus-List Climate Control on board - looking for suggestions

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Hello Listers,

On these really, hot days here on the Chesapeake, I am looking  for ways to 
best cool the interior of my C 30-2, but I can't afford to give up interior 
space for a "built-in" air-conditioning system. Nor, can I afford to store 
below one of those Cruise-Air Units that go in the forward hatch.   So far, 
I've found a 5K btu Frigidaire unit on both  Amazon and Lowe's, and also a 
12volt DC unit [but I think this is one of those evaporative coolers that 
requires a water supply and it's very pricey at nearly $300].


Has anyone had success with a small portable, window unit and care to share 
their experiences??  Thx!!!


Pete W.


Siren Song

C 30-2

Deltaville, VA.

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Re: Stus-List Mast Re-Wire -- Need Advice

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Ron, Hi,

thanks very much for your feedback.

I am going to install LEDs, but I am not familiar with Alpha; I'll need to do 
some research.  thanks.

I have removed the vhf cable only, at this point.

If I can't remove the "nest", I may simply "freshen" the terminals and stay 
with the existing wires.


thanks again!


Pete



From: Ron Ricci <ron.ri...@1968.usna.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 7:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 'kelly petew'
Subject: RE: Stus-List Mast Re-Wire -- Need Advice


Pete,



I rewired my mast several years ago.  Since my lights are all LED’s, the 
current draw is very low and #18 is fine.  I used Alpha 1897C SL005 where I 
needed two conductors (such as Windex light) and Alpha 1898C 3C for three 
conductors (such as foredeck/steaming light).  These cables are PVC jacketed 
and have tinned copper conductors.  To me having cables is better than 
individual conductors and these cables are smaller than multiple conductor boat 
cable.



If you have a rat’s nest of wires, I’d consider pulling everything out.  If 
possible leave a wire for a messenger or get a snake.



Good luck,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com<mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com>







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of kelly petew 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 5:02 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: kelly petew
Subject: Stus-List Mast Re-Wire -- Need Advice



Hello Listers,

First, some background --

Earlier this year, I had the mast extracted from Siren Song, my 30-2.  The 
rigger has completed his work, replacing the rod rigging and fittings, and 
rebuilding my Harken furler.

Also, I just finished painting the mast and spreaders with a one-part paint.



Now, I want to rewire the mast.  Preparatory to the extraction, I labeled the 
wires, marked fittings and blocks, and took MANY pics on my tablet.

I have removed the old VHF cabling, but I was unsuccessful in replacing it with 
LMR-400 [.405" dia.].  For other 30-2 owners, I found [the hard way] that it 
was too stiff and too big to fit.  I could only get it about 40% down the mast 
before it became hopelessly stucked.  Therefore, I have removed it, and 
re-ordered original type of cabling [rg-8x, .25" diameter].

I was hoping to get the enhance performance from the lmr cabling, but it won't 
happen, unfortunately.  I will replace the vhf antenna.



Now, I'm planning to replace electrical wires as well as light fixtures.

In doing a preliminary inspection, I found a "rat's nest" of wiring just below 
the mast's exit hole, which lines up with the underside of the deck when the 
mast is in the boat.  It looks as though excess wiring was simply pushed DOWN 
into the mast, and over time sagged further down [but still beyond arm's length 
from mast's bottom].



Any "tips and tricks", including the best tools to use for re-wiring the 
electricals will be greatly appreciated, i.e., extracting the old stuff and 
installing the new.



Fair Winds,



Pete W.

Siren Song

'91 C 30-2

Deltaville, Va.


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Stus-List Mast Re-Wire -- Need Advice

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Hello Listers,

First, some background --

Earlier this year, I had the mast extracted from Siren Song, my 30-2.  The 
rigger has completed his work, replacing the rod rigging and fittings, and 
rebuilding my Harken furler.

Also, I just finished painting the mast and spreaders with a one-part paint.


Now, I want to rewire the mast.  Preparatory to the extraction, I labeled the 
wires, marked fittings and blocks, and took MANY pics on my tablet.

I have removed the old VHF cabling, but I was unsuccessful in replacing it with 
LMR-400 [.405" dia.].  For other 30-2 owners, I found [the hard way] that it 
was too stiff and too big to fit.  I could only get it about 40% down the mast 
before it became hopelessly stucked.  Therefore, I have removed it, and 
re-ordered original type of cabling [rg-8x, .25" diameter].

I was hoping to get the enhance performance from the lmr cabling, but it won't 
happen, unfortunately.  I will replace the vhf antenna.


Now, I'm planning to replace electrical wires as well as light fixtures.

In doing a preliminary inspection, I found a "rat's nest" of wiring just below 
the mast's exit hole, which lines up with the underside of the deck when the 
mast is in the boat.  It looks as though excess wiring was simply pushed DOWN 
into the mast, and over time sagged further down [but still beyond arm's length 
from mast's bottom].


Any "tips and tricks", including the best tools to use for re-wiring the 
electricals will be greatly appreciated, i.e., extracting the old stuff and 
installing the new.


Fair Winds,


Pete W.

Siren Song

'91 C 30-2

Deltaville, Va.

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Stus-List Mast Down - Need guidance

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

To all,

thanks very much for your input.  As always, it's very helpful.


Fair Winds,


Pete W.

'91 C

Deltaville, Va.
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Stus-List Mast Down - Need guidance on replacement of VHF cabling & antenna

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Belated HNY, Listers,

I am having the standing rigging [rod] on my '91 30-2 re-done [hopefully, 
re-headed].


Now that the mast is down, I am looking to replacement of all the wiring and 
running rigging.

Regarding the VHF cabling, I am "hearing" that "LMR-400" is superior to other 
alternatives.

So, I checked Amazon and, of course, found "LMR-400", but there appear to be 
several varieties to choose from.

Or, perhaps, it's simply different terminal fittings on the same cable.  I 
can't tell.

In any event, I would appreciate any feedback on which cabling to use.  I need 
about 44 ft.


And also, any thoughts on installation "best practices".  It would seem I'll 
need to cut one end in order to get it up the mast.  Does this make sense?

I would prefer NOT to have to cut and re-solder, but that seems to be 
unavoidable.

Also, should I replace the interior cabling -- from the mast to the radio -- as 
well?


And finally, any thoughts on the best antenna to use?


Thanks


Pete W.

Siren Song

C 30-2

Deltaville, Va.
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Stus-List Looking for Tips on ROD Re-Rigging Process

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Hello Listers,


My 30-2 is 25+ years young.  I've been the owner since 2003, and I am 
reasonably sure the standing, rog rigging is original.

I've met with a rigger and I am awaiting his recommendation ,including the 
costs and other options.  I'm hoping the existing rod [25 years old] can be 
re-headed as this would be the less costly route to go[not counting "doing 
nothing", of course].



I'm in the yard and they can pull the mast as early as next week.


That said, I would appreciate any tips on this project.  For example, once the 
mast is out, How best to plug the hole in the deck?

Also, while the mast is down, I want to replace the VHF cabling, install LED 
lights, clean/paint the mast.

Any suggestions in these areas would be great!!!


Fair Winds,


Pete W.

Siren Song

'91 C

Deltavillle, Va.

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Yanmar 2gm20f - raw H2O pump issue

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Recently, I discovered my raw water pump was leaking during engine operation.  
So, I replaced the impeller [old one looked perfect after extraction] and the 
"O" ring seal.  
 
After renewal of impeller and "O" ring, I ran engine about 2 to 3 hours, and no 
leakage was observed.
However, yesterday, it was leaking at about 10 to 20 drips per minute while 
motoring.  
 
Are these pumps similar to an automobile water pump?  That is, when the auto 
pump's bearing fails, it starts to leak?  
Is the leakage telling me that I have a bad bearing in this pump??
 
Thanks,
 
 
Pete W.
Siren Song
'91 C
Deltaville, Va.
 
 
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Stus-List New Sails for my 38

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Try Ullman Sails in Deltaville.  Jerry or Justin can help you.  Good folks. 
Pete W.Siren SongC 30-2Deltaville, Va. Message: 7
Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2016 11:45:34 -0400
From: "Rick Brass" 
To: "Charlie Nelson" ,
Subject: Stus-List New sails for my 38
Message-ID: <000a01d1eff9$91f89e60$b5e9db20$@earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

It's time to replace the main and genoa on my 38 mk2 (and I actually have
the money to do it).

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Re: Stus-List Cockpit Shower on 30 mkII

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

 If your 30-2 is a later model, this might work as well.  The later models had 
opening ports from the head just behind the main halyard winch.   From a big 
box store, I bought a "phone" showerhead and extra tubing that will screw into 
the fixture at the head's sink.  I simply run the tubing and showerhead through 
the port, and into the cockpit. The showerhead has controls for the water flow 
and I have a shower.  Low tech, but effective.   Pete W.Siren SongC 
30-2Deltaville, Va  
  ___

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest -- Water Tank Woes

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Everyone, 
thanks for your guidance.  I'll check it out [including the 'scoop on goop'].
I'd not thought about flex tanks or Marelon thru hull.
 
Gary, 
help me with the link you sent below.  When I try it, Defender doesn't 
recognize the item.
 
Thanks again!!!
 
Pete W. 
Siren Song 
30-2
 

> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2016 20:37:36 -0400
> From: Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com>
> To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes
> Message-ID:
>   <cabgkxpl2lxkk-a7arvvff4ayacz+gbauxvww9en_k6rzdxh...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Can you replace the fitting with this?
> 
> http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|51|2234277|2234279=146726
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
> On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 8:12 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> > Replace it with a flex tank.  I love my flex tanks.  I don't have a single
> > rigid tank on Touche'.
> >
> > For some reason, flex tanks don't have a strong following.  However, in
> > being a member of this list for a decade and a half, I do not remember a
> > single post about a failure of a flex tank.  There have been several about
> > rigid tanks.
> >
> > Dennis C.
> > Touche' 35-1 #83
> > Mandeville, LA
> >
> > On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 4:56 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List <
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> >> One of my water tanks continues to leak and it appears to be where the
> >> barbed elbow fitting exits the tank .  I've wrapped the threads with Teflon
> >> tape [both pink and white], but it fails to make a good seal.  This is my
> >> 3rd attempt to fix it.
> >> The tank is a Kracor brand, and the tank's walls and bottom appear to be
> >> quite thick.  I have observed "weeping" only right around the hole where
> >> the elbow fitting is screwed into it.
> >>
> >> Does anyone have a suggestion?  Is there some adhesive that I can apply
> >> the threads of the barbed fitting??
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Pete W.
> >>
> >> Siren Song
> >> C 30-2
> >> Deltaville, VA.
> >>
> >> ___
> >>
> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> >> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> >> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> >>
> >>
> >
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> > Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> >
> >
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160707/8664ae04/attachment-0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2016 20:50:43 -0400
> From: Harry Hallgring Jr <hhallgr...@icloud.com>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes
> Message-ID: <da2455a8-dd5d-40c8-b9ea-de8059877...@icloud.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I have 3-20 gallon Kracor tanks and 2-23.5 gallon Nauta bladders for fresh 
> water and 1-39.5 gallon Kracor tank for poop. They all perform well. 
> 
> Harry
> Sent from my iPhone 7 beta
> 
> > On Jul 7, 2016, at 20:12, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> > wrote:
> > 
> > Replace it with a flex tank.  I love my flex tanks.  I don't have a single 
> > rigid tank on Touche'.
> > 
> > For some reason, flex tanks don't have a strong following.  However, in 
> > being a member of this list for a decade and a half, I do not remember a 
> > single post about a failure of a flex tank.  There have been several about 
> > rigid tanks.
> > 
> > Dennis C.
> > Touche' 35-1 #83
> > Mandeville, LA
> > 
> >> On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 4:56 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List 
> >> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >> One of my water tanks continues to leak and it appears to be where the 
> >> barbed elbow fitting exits the tank .  I've wrapped the threads with 
> >> Teflon tape [both pink and white], but it 

Stus-List Water Tank Woes

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

One of my water tanks continues to leak and it appears to be where the barbed 
elbow fitting exits the tank .  I've wrapped the threads with Teflon tape [both 
pink and white], but it fails to make a good seal.  This is my 3rd attempt to 
fix it. 
The tank is a Kracor brand, and the tank's walls and bottom appear to be quite 
thick.  I have observed "weeping" only right around the hole where the elbow 
fitting is screwed into it.
 
Does anyone have a suggestion?  Is there some adhesive that I can apply the 
threads of the barbed fitting??
 
Thanks,
 
Pete W.
 
Siren Song
C 30-2
Deltaville, VA. 
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greatly appreciated!

Stus-List 30MKII batteries

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

I have an Interstate brand  grp 24 or 27 "dual purpose" battery as my starting 
battery.  Excellent battery. Last season I added two [2] "31DCXC" Harris 
batteries [wet cell] for my house bank.  I think these are group 31s with about 
110 amp-hour capacity [google "Harris Batteries', in Ohio to be sure].  As 
others have responded, these all reside under the aft cabinet berth.I will say 
the current house bank has a lower profile than what they replaced.  I had to 
glue a 1/2" wood strip to the front ends of the cover boards in order to ensure 
clearance for the old batteries. Hope this helps. Pete W. Siren Song'91 
C, VA.  
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Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

I, too, carry a 140 genoa, and reef around 12 knots.  I like to  keep the boat 
on its "feet".  So, 10 to 15 degree heel is good for me.  
Nervous or not, you'll start to feel weather helm at 10 to 12 knots, and you'll 
want to reef [the main 1st] to keep up your speed and reduce pressure on the 
rudder.
 
You are correct that this boat is "tender".  I believe there is a chart in the 
photoalbum archives that documents this as well as the 30-1's stiffness.
That said, the boat carries a lot of sail area, and it's fast IMO.  
 
Also, I single-hand a lot and typically start with a reef as a prudent measure.
If you don't already have them on your main, I recommend adding "dogbones" to 
your reef points, to make reefing quick and easy [and reduce the possibility of 
a rip to your sail; they are cheap].
 
Give a report on your 1st sail.
 
Pete W.
Siren Song
'91 C 30-2 #170
Deltaville, VA
 
 
 
 
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 10:25:31 + (UTC)
From: Allan Rheaume 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?
Message-ID:
<814944704.1736603.1466504731991.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Hi Lorne, I carry a 140% headsail on my 30-2. I usually start getting 
overpowered upwind at around 12 knots true. 

Al RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 #90

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Stus-List Location of "grease cup"

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Alan,
I saw your post below.  My 30-2 has a zerk on the rudder post [accessible thru 
a locker].
But, I'm not aware of a grease cup.  
Can you tell me where to look?  
Under the emergency tiller joint?
 
thanks,
 
Pete W.
 
'91 C
Siren Song
Deltaville, va.
 
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2016 23:28:24 -0700
From: ALAN BERGEN 
To: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Rudder post sleeve
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

It's hard to imagine having to replace the rudder post sleeve, and needing
a new collar.  Sometimes turning the grease cup (if it has any grease left
in it) will make the steering easier.  If the cup is already screwed in all
the way,  remove it, fill it with grease and screw it back on until grease
is squeezed out of the top of the sleeve.  That should make the steering
easier.

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Stus-List Holding Tank Woes - 30-2

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Earlier this week, I launched my 30-2 after spending the winter [Va.] on the 
hard.  The boat had been blocked slightly bow UP, as usual.
When it was splashed, about a gallon of effluent, mixed with anti-freeze, 
rushed into the bilge.  After some checking, I am 95% sure my waste system has 
a leak.
 
As yet, I have not determined if a hose or the tank has failed.  Last fall I 
pumped it "dry" and added a gallon or so of anti-freeze, as usual.
 
The tank sits in the bottom of the cockpit locker, under a false flooring.  
Looks like it will come out through the opening, but I'm worried about removing 
the hoses - both off the tank as well as out of the boat.  They "snake" their 
way through some inaccessible places.  My manual lacks a schematic.
I'm sure the system is original equipment.  Can anyone share some "tips and 
tricks" on breaking loose hoses?  P.B. Blaster?  heat? 
 
thanks,
 
Pete W.
Siren Song
'91 C 30-II
Deltaville, Va.
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Stus-List LED Nav Lights

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

https://store.marinebeam.com/high-powered-ba9s-deck-steaming-light-led-ba-9s-5w/
 
Here's a link to Marinebeam for what looks like the LED replacement for the 
steaming light.
I've not purchased this bulb as yet, but I plan to drop the mast soon, and will 
likely change out both the anchor lite and the steaming/bow lights.
 
Pete W.
Siren Song
30-2
 
Deltaville, Va. 
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Stus-List How to contribute

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

what's the process for sending $$ if you don't have a PayPal account?
 
thanks,
 
Pete W.
 
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Stus-List Subject: Re: Hull color inquiry

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Richard, 
 
If you like the color, go for it.  
 
I didn't start at specifically looking for a blue boat, but that's what I have, 
and I like it.   It's flag blue. 
While your "experts" are probably correct, their reasons are more technical 
than substantive.  
Any scratches won't be visible unless the observer is far too close.  And 
hotter, possibly, but I doubt any difference would be perceptible.  
 
I bought my boat 13 years ago, and its blue hull wasn't pretty, but I started 
using Poli-Glo years ago, and I refer to it as the "poor man's awlgrip".   It 
does a pretty good job of hiding all but the worst scratches, and again, beyond 
10 feet, no one will see them.
 
Other listers have commented on Poli-Glo's benefits as well.
 
I can send you "Before" and "After" pics if you like.
 
Fair Winds,
 
Pete W.
 
Siren Song
91 C 30-2
Deltaville, Va.  
 
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Re: Stus-List spring cleaning

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

 
For cleaning my topsides and deck, I use a solution of Dawn, Simple Green, and 
some granular TSP [a cup, or 8 ozs., maybe less].  With some scrubbing [bristle 
brush on end of mop handle], it gets rid of mold, bird droppings, etc.   I use 
poli-glo on my topsides and ablative paint on the bottom;  and this solution 
doesn't seem to cause a problem.   Fair Winds, Pete W. Siren SongC 
30-2Deltaville, Va. Message: 6
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2016 18:59:54 -0700
From: Fred Hazzard 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List spring cleaning
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I am getting ready to clean the deck of my C   Beyond the normal winter
smegma of jet exhaust and green slime, this year I have stains from bottom
paint dust from the sanding of bottoms in the boat yard.   The deck is gel
coat and the hull is painted with Imron.  Looking for suggestions for some
magic cleaning solution to clean the deck.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or. ___

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Re: Stus-List Engine Access

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

I, too, would be most interested in seeing your photos.  Thanks
 
 
 
Pete W.
 
Siren Song
30-2
Deltaville, VA
 
Message: 11
> Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2016 15:44:51 +
> From: Kevin Driscoll 
> To: allen via CnC-List 
> Cc: Jim Reinardy , Peter Patterson
>   
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Allen, I will grab a photo and dimensions of our hatch on our 30-2 this
> weekend when we are on the boat. Ours isn't a nice looking wood hatch, but
> it's the head and behind the door, and waterproof so it works fine for our
> needs.
> 
> KD
> 
> On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 7:26 AM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> > Allen,
> >
> >
> >
> > I have a nice looking wood access panel in the head on our 30-2, I will
> > grab some pictures for you this weekend.
> >
> >
> >
> > Jim Reinardy
> >
> > C 30-2 ?Firewater?  ___

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Re: Stus-List Advice needed on Rigging Maintenance

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Thanks very much for the information.  As always, it is most helpful. Fair 
Winds, Pete W.Siren Song1991 30-2Deltaville, VA
 
From: kellype...@msn.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Advice needed on Rigging Maintenance
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2016 16:17:51 -0500




My 30-2 is now 25 years old [wish I was, too!!], and has rod rigging, except 
for the split backstay and probably the forestay [has a Harken furler on it].  
The 30-2 is a double spreader rig.
About 2 years ago, I paid for a rigging inspection [mast stayed UP].  All was 
reported as OK.  
I have not raced the boat, nor have I sailed her "hard" over the past 12 
seasons [i.e., reef early, keep her "on her feet" in higher winds].
However, I have no idea how the POs used the boat, but I suspect some racing 
was done.
 
That said, I am thinking the prudent move is to have the rod rigging terminals 
"re-headed", both top and bottom terminals [I hope my use of terminology is 
accurate, and if not, at least understood]. 
I would appreciate any and all feedback from this group on what maintenance I 
should consider.  
--Does this make sense to have this done when I've had no issues?
--Can it be done without removing the mast? 
-- If I do it, should I replace the forestay? 
--What should I expect to pay roughly?  
--Can you recommend a rigger [I'm on lower Chesapeake Bay, in Deltaville, Va.]?
 
Thanks, 
 
Pete W. 
 
Siren Song
1991 30-2
Deltaville, Va.
 
  
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Stus-List Advice needed on Rigging Maintenance

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

My 30-2 is now 25 years old [wish I was, too!!], and has rod rigging, except 
for the split backstay and probably the forestay [has a Harken furler on it].  
The 30-2 is a double spreader rig.
About 2 years ago, I paid for a rigging inspection [mast stayed UP].  All was 
reported as OK.  
I have not raced the boat, nor have I sailed her "hard" over the past 12 
seasons [i.e., reef early, keep her "on her feet" in higher winds].
However, I have no idea how the POs used the boat, but I suspect some racing 
was done.
 
That said, I am thinking the prudent move is to have the rod rigging terminals 
"re-headed", both top and bottom terminals [I hope my use of terminology is 
accurate, and if not, at least understood]. 
I would appreciate any and all feedback from this group on what maintenance I 
should consider.  
--Does this make sense to have this done when I've had no issues?
--Can it be done without removing the mast? 
-- If I do it, should I replace the forestay? 
--What should I expect to pay roughly?  
--Can you recommend a rigger [I'm on lower Chesapeake Bay, in Deltaville, Va.]?
 
Thanks, 
 
Pete W. 
 
Siren Song
1991 30-2
Deltaville, Va.
 
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Stus-List Stuffing Box Packing Recommendation needed

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Happy New Year to All!!
I have a 30-2 and the stuff box was leaking noticeably all last season.  While 
periodic tightening helped, I'm guessing it's time to renew the packing.  
And While a dripless seal would be great, it's not in the boat "budget".
 
Any thoughts to share on preferred packing materials would be greatly 
appreciated. 
 
Pete W.
Siren Song
1991 30MKII
Deltaville, Va. 
 
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

 Edd,
Check out the latest GOB magazine.  There's an article about how the author 
improved his holding tank, using mostly big-box store stuff.  
I used the article to fashion a fresh water rinse for my head by inserting a 
"T" and a hose b/t the seacock and the existing, intake hose to the head.
 
The same materials should work for your raw water intake.
Just some PVC fittings, including a "T", and hose and clamps.
 
Good Luck,
 
Pete W.
 
Siren Song
C MKII
Deltaville, VA
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Stus-List Water Tank Woes - 30-II

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Hello Listers,
My starboard water tank has sprung a leak.  
The tank was made by Kracor, and it appears the leak is coming from the elbow 
joint.  
Any 30-II owners have/had this problem?  
How difficult is removing the tank??  It doesn't appear to be too difficult, 
but I'd be most interested to hear of others' experiences.
 
Also, I'm not sure silicone will adhere well to the tank.  Any thoughts on 
other adhesives?  
 
Thanks,
Pete W.
Siren Song
'91 CC 30-II
Deltaville, VA
 
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Re: Stus-List Rusted cotter ring remnants in anchor roller retaining

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the advice.  
I tried vinegar, and it worked!!
After about 24 hours of soaking in vinegar, I was able to easily extract the 
inferior metal, using a hammer and a punch.
 
Pete W.
Siren. Song
 '91 C  C 30 MkII
Deltaville, Va.

 
 From: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
 Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 112, Issue 38
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Sun, 17 May 2015 09:12:42 -0400
 
 Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
   http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
   cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
 
 You can reach the person managing the list at
   cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
 
 When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
 than Re: Contents of CnC-List digest...
 
 
 Today's Topics:
 
1. Re:  Rusted cotter ring remnants in anchor roller   retaining
   pin (Rick Rohwer)
2. Re:  CC 29-2 Prop walk (Gary Russell)
3.  Keel Bolt problem 35-3 (scott gary)
4. Re:  Keel Bolt problem 35-3 (Dennis C.)
5. Re:  Keel Bolt problem 35-3 (Gary Russell)
6. Re:  Keel Bolt problem 35-3 (scott gary)
7. Re:  Keel Bolt problem 35-3 (Jake Brodersen)
8. Re:  Keel Bolt problem 35-3 (Wally Bryant)
9. Re:  Rusted cotter ring remnants in anchor roller retaining
   pin (Russ  Melody)
   10. Re:  CC 29-2 Prop walk (Knowles Rich)
   11. Re:  CC 29-2 Prop walk (Gary Russell)
   12.  Impeller Damn... (David)
   13. Re:  Impeller Damn... (Josh Muckley)
   14. Re:  Impeller Damn... (David)
   15. Re:  Impeller Damn... (Josh Muckley)
 
 
 --
 
 Message: 1
 Date: Sat, 16 May 2015 10:04:23 -0700
 From: Rick Rohwer rickroh...@gmail.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Rusted cotter ring remnants in anchor roller
   retaining pin
 Message-ID: 3c46d7b7-41cd-490c-82b3-fc5e99850...@gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
 
 Pete, 
 For what it?s worth, Citric Acid will eat the rust(iron) and not effect the 
 stainless.  I am not sure how you would use that info.  Maybe soak the area 
 intermittently with a 10% citric solution.  I don?t think it will harm your 
 fiberglass.  
 The powdered drink ?Tang? is high in Citric acid.  
 Cheers
 Rick
 CC 37+ Paikea
 Poulsbo, WA 
  On May 15, 2015, at 4:36 PM, kellype...@msn.com via CnC-List 
  cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
  
  Listers, please give me advice.
  Due to inferior steel, a cotter ring has rusted badly, and I am unable to 
  remove the remnants from the pin.
  So far, a hardened-steel drill bit (Irwin brand) is simply enlarging the 
  hole around the edges, but not removing the ring remnants.
  Is there chemical solution? 
  Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
   
  Pete W.
  Siren. Song 
  '91 C  C 30 MkII
  Deltaville, Va.
   
   
  Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE Tablet
   
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Stus-List Need Recommendation for Tool to remove balsa core from drilled hole

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

I want to remove balsa core from some drilled holes and replace it with epoxy.  
I've heard that a bent nail inserted into an electric drill works.  But I 
wonder if there is a tool designed specifically to do this job.  
 
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.   Thanks.
 
Pete W.
 
Siren Song
CC 30-2
Deltaville, VA
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Stus-List Too Much Bottom Paint - Use It Up?

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

 I have a 30-2 and I have had adhesion problems, too.  I use Micron CSC, too, 
but I don't race my boat.  In my situation, I had spots where the original 
gelcoat was exposed, and new paint would simply not adhere well [brush or 
roller].  However, I've had success with doing a light sanding first, and then 
priming these areas with Interlux Promocon.  Go to their website for more info. 
 I emailed Interlux and they responded with detailed instructions -- not too 
labor-intensive nor expensive.  A quart is more than I've needed.   Good 
Luck!!! Pete W. Siren Song'91 CC 30 MKII Deltaville, VA
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Re: Stus-List fishing wires through CC 30-II

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Can anyone provide guidance on fishing electrical wires from the breaker 
panel to the pedestal?  
 
Is there a best path?  
I need power for my chartplotter.  
 
thanks!
 
Pete W.
 
Siren Song
CC30 MK-II
Deltaville, VA
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Stus-List Planning trip to S. New England- need advice from locals

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

I'm planning a trip to southern New England next month [not by boat].  
Naturally, I'm most interested in the sailing attractions, such as Newport, 
Mystic Seaport, and the like. 
At this point, I'm thinking of renting a car in Providence and exploring as 
many places as I can over a 5-day period.  
I'd like to do one of the harbor cruises on a 12 meter as well as enjoy local 
cuisine.  Beyond these, I don't have much else on my to-do list. 
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  
 
thanks,
 
Pete W.
 
Siren Song
'91 CC 30-2
Deltaville, VA
 
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Re: Stus-List Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

I've had the same problem.  I started using a cow hitch vs. two bowlines and 
it's less likely to get jammed.
My headsail is a 140.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Pete W.
 
Siren Song
'91 CC30-2
Deltaville, VA
 
 From: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
 Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 101, Issue 46
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 20:49:53 -0400
 
 Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
   http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
   cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
 
 You can reach the person managing the list at
   cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
 
 When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
 than Re: Contents of CnC-List digest...
 
 
 Today's Topics:
 
1. Re:  CC 38 mk1 vs mk2 (Stevan Plavsa)
2.  CC 32 Genoa sheets (John Russo)
3. Re:  CC 32 Genoa sheets (Rick Taillieu)
4. Re:  Boatyard repair issues (Chuck S)
5. Re:  CC 32 Genoa sheets (Frank)
6. Re:  CC 32 Genoa sheets (John Russo)
7. Re:  CC 32 Genoa sheets (Dennis C.)
8. Re:  What happened 15th 16th June (Chris Price)
9.  Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay (Kevin Driscoll)
   10.  Boat for sale. . (D Harben)
   11. Re:  Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay
   (sam.c.sal...@gmail.com)
   12. Re:  What happened 15th 16th June (Chuck S)
 
 
 --
 
 Message: 1
 Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 13:01:07 -0400
 From: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 38 mk1 vs mk2
 Message-ID:
   caddevn7vjfrtlxkfv3u4it9gzfh_1y2dkzixkgbxgs6zjbn...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
 
 Thanks for the replies guys. I guess I'm not crazy then! If the owners
 themselves don't know the difference I don't feel so bad. Also, it means
 the older boats are worth considering. I'm also reading mixed reports of
 cored vs non-cored hulls. Anyone care to comment on that one?? Mostly I
 read that they are cored all the way down.
 
 Thanks,
 Steve
 Suhana, CC 32
 Toronto
 
 
 

 
 Message: 9
 Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 17:21:47 -0700
 From: Kevin Driscoll kevindrisc...@gmail.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay
 Message-ID:
   CA+LFByotVKt9BKDYZ8k9RwRt9=5nftnco8bc7feho3q1rgd...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
 
 I find that my jib sheet bowlines get hung up on my stay quite a bit,
 especially with my 130 on. Any suggestions?
 
 Thanks,
 Kevin
 30-2
 
 Sent from a mobile device.
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Re: Stus-List Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Nomy genoa sheets are a single, continuous line.  
The cow hitch is simply a loop that goes through the clew of the sail.  
 
hope this helps.
 
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2014 12:17:21 -0500
From: Pete Shelquist pete.shelqu...@comcast.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay
Message-ID: 00b001cf8be2$55151af0$ff3f50d0$@shelqu...@comcast.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Pete - 

You haven't had issues with the lazy sheet coming loose?




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