Re: Stus-List Advise on cutting fiberglass

[phorvati . via CnC-List]

One of those multitools, jigsaw, portable circular saw for large sections,
and Dremmel circular wheel ones with blades.

On Apr 8, 2017 11:59 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
wrote:

As background, I installed an opening port on Imzadi to replace a fixed
aluminum framed portlight, and it didn’t go to my expectations. I had to
expand the existing opening by a small margin, and decided that I could use
my handy dandy Dremel tool to cut the fiberglass laminate. But the cut I
got was far from smooth and straight. So I decided I’d put off installing
the other three ports until I figured out a better way of doing it.



I have three current projects that will require me to cut laminate:
additional opening ports, removing the inner skin on the cockpit locker
covers so I can replace rotted core, and making a propane locker. So my
question is: What would be the best tool for getting smooth straight cuts
in fiberglass laminate?



A friend in the boat repair business will loan me his Rotozip, but I’m not
confident that I would get better cuts that I did on the window opening
(operator error, I freely admit).



Dremel (among others) makes a mini circular saw that looks almost ideal for
making shallow, straight cuts. But corners might be a problem.



A vibrating multi-tool (I still think of it as a Fein tool) seems like a
real possibility, plus having a lot of uses on other projects. But I’m not
sure how well it will cut fiberglass.



You guys are the experts. What tool should I buy (or borrow)?



Rick Brass

*Imzadi  *C 38 mk 2

*la Belle Aurore *C 25 mk1

Washington, NC



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Adding insulation to the icebox on a 38 mk2

[phorvati . via CnC-List]

I can drill holes form the inside and inject 2 part foam or expendafoam.
that's what I did for outboard end.


On Apr 2, 2017 9:09 AM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> My question is primarily directed at the 38-2 owners on the list, but
> might also be appropriate for owners of other mid 70s boats.
>
>
>
> Have you added insulation around the ice box on your boat, and how?
>
>
>
> Deconstructing the cabinets, counter, and dish storage cabinet aft of the
> ice box is way more project than I want to tackle (plus I’d undoubtedly
> screw up all that teak.
>
>
>
> Access through the little cabinet door under the three silverware drawers
> is miserable. I can basically get one arm into the space, or I can get my
> head in – so I can see a bit but only have limited ability to work in the
> space under the counter. And I don’t see and obvious or easy way to remove
> the structure that supports the drawers to increase the access.
>
>
>
> There are surprisingly large spaces between the outside of the ice box and
> the surrounding bulkheads, as much as 6” or more in some places, so spray
> in foam does not seem a practical alternative.
>
>
>
> About the only practical alternative I see is to add foam to the inside of
> the box and glass it over.
>
>
>
> I could profit from your experiences and suggestions.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> *Imzadi  *C 38 mk 2
>
> *la Belle Aurore *C 25 mk1
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Deceitful USCG Documentation Renewal Company

[phorvati . via CnC-List]

I purchased a tayana fd12 in september, ended up submitting several parts
of the application, all per the instruction document.  Few of them were
release of primary mortgage bill of sale and exchange of COD.  all via
email and pdfs attached.  I was a bit scepticall but the coast guard
website was accurate on processing times.  I got the new COD last week.  it
was  under 100$.  So it took a bit, my guess was due to request for release
of PM.  Coast Guard website works but u need to do your own due diligence,
read requirements and fulfill them as required.

On Feb 3, 2017 8:17 PM, "RANDY via CnC-List"  wrote:

> Listers - fair warning - I got deceived today into paying 3X what I needed
> to for USCG documentation renewal.  I received a letter via USPS from an
> entity named "U.S. Vessel Documentation", domain name uscgdocumentation.us,
> titled "Vessel Renewal Courtesy Notice".  As I'm sure the sender intended,
> I mistook the letter as being from the United States Coast Guard National
> Vessel Documentation Center, reminding me to renew my Certificate of
> Documentation.  It's been on my mind that my CoD is expiring soon, and I've
> been expecting a reminder.
>
> So I went to uscgdocumentation.us, filled out the renewal form, and
> submitted it.  I was surprised to see the price was $75 - I'd remembered
> the renewal cost being ~$25 - but I thought "well, the Coast Guard must
> have raised their prices", and submitted the form anyway, with my credit
> card information.
>
> Somehow sometime after doing that, I noticed fine print at the very bottom
> of uscgdocumentation.us web pages, where you wouldn't even normally
> scroll or look, saying "U.S. Vessel Documentation is NOT the U.S. Coast
> Guard or the National Vessel Documentation Center; we are a third party
> agency that handles USCG Documentation processing to NVDC."
>
> So then I went to the real USCG NVDC website, https://www.uscg.mil/
> nvdc/default.asp, where I applied for an exchange of the CoD last year
> when I bought Grenadine (since she was previously USCG-documented), and
> confirmed their renewal fee is only $26 and you can file for renewal online
> right there.
>
> At that point I realized I'd been had, and immediately requested
> cancellation of my renewal order from that company, in writing, and in
> voice mail, and filed a complaint with the Better Business Bureau and the
> USGC NVDC about "U.S. Vessel Documentation", and contacted my credit card
> company to block the charge from this merchant.  I'm now in the process of
> posting about this experience on sailing-related forums I've visited.
>
> If you own a USCG-documented vessel, *DO NOT* do business through the
> deceitful company uscgdocumentation.us, unless you don't mind paying 3X
> the cost of something you could do directly though https://www.uscg.mil/
> nvdc/default.asp .  These "U.S.
> Vessel Documentation" people are predatory.
>
> I've posted the letter I received, and an email exchange I had with this
> company, at https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTeU1HcDZKTWdiQzA.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Roller furling choices advice?

[phorvati . via CnC-List]

Profurl is expensive. I'm tearing up N31 and LC42 models due to water
ingress rusting the bearings. My c 38 has a harken mk2 which always
worked flawlessly.  I had it on wire and I switched to -10 rod.

On Jan 13, 2017 11:19 PM, "Michael Jones via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ls and Gs
>
> I'm sure there is loads of experience on roller furlers out there...can
> you share some of it? I have a 1981 C 34 with a track on the forestay.
>
> I am considering replacing this with a roller furler  I'd like to be able
> to install myself, and I'd like to keep the existing forestay as it's rod
> and I'd rather not have to disturb it by shortening it as some of the
> systems require. I'd also like not to have to change it to wire (at least
> one furler manufacturer claims their system is not compatible with rod
> rigging).
>
> Profurl seems a possibility, Harken would need to shorten the stay.
>
> Any comments would be appreciated!
>
> Best regards
>
> Mike Jones
> 1981 C 34 Seanachai
> Oak Bay, Victoria.
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop compter

[phorvati . via CnC-List]

It's usable  but with headaches of having to update windows.  Windows has a
weekly update.  And so does the browsing stuff like Mozilla and adobe
products etc etc.  If you don't keep up with it, it becomes a nuissance. If
you just keep open cpn that's doable.
  I ended up rewiring the internals of 22" HP lcd monitor to use 12v.  You
can purchase a 12v monitor as well. In fact dell had a 14v led back lit
version.   All ccfl back lit TVs and monitors use 19v DC as input to high
voltage transformer for cclf(florescent light that lights the tv picture)
The IC driver on this particular HP model is rated to take down to 8 or 10v
DC input.  So I put a laptop type 12vDC recepticle on the monitor and I
bypassed the ac side of the power supply. So 12 v goes directly to what
used to be the 19v node.  This might be more for the geeks, but it saves
quite a bit of money.  I got my monitor for 50$ few years ago.
Same goes with USB hubs.  You can lookup the IC in the hub and wire it
directly to 12v with a fuse. Provided that it's rated for 10-15v DC
range.   The one I use is rated to 15 or 16v at the input.
On Nov 2, 2016 3:38 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I'd like to have a windows machine on board to run OpenCPN, surf the web
> etc.
>
> I'm thinking of using a 12 volt TV that I can mount and an Intel
> ComputeStick CS-325.  Add a 12 volt to USB converter, BT keyboard/mouse and
> external hard drive.
>
> Thoughts/recommendations?
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Choosing an anchor for a C 35 mkll

[phorvati . via CnC-List]

It all depends how much you need a good night rest while at anchor.  Are
you a dock person, or do you rent morrings, or do you drop a hook?  My
fried with the same boat put a 35lbs CQR with 5/16" chain.  That boat is
not going anywhere.  But he doesn't have a windlass, so raising anchor is
not his favourite activity.
On Oct 23, 2016 12:08 PM, "Greg Swetka via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I am having a bow roller/stemhead fitting made for my C 35 mkll... I am
> looking for advice an choosing the proper size and type of anchor to use.
> My fabricator wants to know what I am going to use to properly size the
> fabrication. I am leaning towards the Delta or a cqr/plow style of anchor.
> I am in the Great Lakes, so most of my anchoring is in weeds, mud, clay and
> some sand.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Oct 21, 2016, at 9:14 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> >cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> >
> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> >http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> >cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> >
> > You can reach the person managing the list at
> >cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> >
> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> >
> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> >   1.  Butyl sealant (Gary Nylander)
> >   2. Re:  Butyl sealant (Dennis C.)
> >   3. Re:  Butyl sealant (Kevin Driscoll)
> >   4.  Slip Choice (robert)
> >   5. Re:  Slip Choice (Dennis C.)
> >   6. Re:  Slip Choice (Gary Russell)
> >   7.  Possible bargain C (Chuck Gilchrest)
> >   8. Re:  Slip Choice (Steve Thomas)
> >   9.  Slip Choice (robert)
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2016 14:29:06 -0400
> > From: "Gary Nylander" 
> > To: 
> > Subject: Stus-List Butyl sealant
> > Message-ID: <01d22aff$d8d1a250$8a74e6f0$@atlanticbb.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > I know there have been many mentions of the best place to get the butyl
> we
> > use to bed deck fittings, toe rails and whatever. Of course, I have that
> on
> > my old hard drive which cratered... can anyone give me the best source?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks, Gary
> >
> > -- next part --
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:  com/attachments/20161020/13ffcfb5/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > --
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2016 13:35:02 -0500
> > From: "Dennis C." 
> > To: CnClist 
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl sealant
> > Message-ID:
> >
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
> >
> > Dennis C.
> >
> > On Thu, Oct 20, 2016 at 1:29 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> >> I know there have been many mentions of the best place to get the butyl
> we
> >> use to bed deck fittings, toe rails and whatever. Of course, I have
> that on
> >> my old hard drive which cratered?.. can anyone give me the best source?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks, Gary
> >>
> >> ___
> >>
> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> >> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >>
> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> >>
> >>
> > -- next part --
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:  com/attachments/20161020/45a919e7/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > --
> >
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2016 19:05:36 +
> > From: Kevin Driscoll 
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl sealant
> > Message-ID:
> >
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > What Dennis said. Don't bother with anything else. (I've tried others...)
> >
> > On Thu, Oct 20, 2016 at 11:35 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> >> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
> >>
> >> Dennis C.
> >>
> >> On Thu, Oct 20, 2016 at 1:29 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
> >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> I know there have been many mentions of the best place to get the butyl
> we
> >> use to bed deck fittings, toe rails and whatever. Of course, I have
> that on
> >> my old hard drive which cratered?.. can anyone give me the best source?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks, Gary
> >>
> >> 

Re: Stus-List Winterizing an Atomic 4

[phorvati . via CnC-List]

U have to drain the block.  Side inspection plate will leak if you dont
drain it.  Its fragile as it is.  It doesnt take too much freezing to
develop leaks.  Block drain plug is under distributor, just aft of side
inspection plate.  It's pita. Moyer sells extention to make this easy.
On Oct 11, 2016 12:12 PM, "Michael Brown via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My atomic 4 is raw water cooled, I have drained the engine and water pump
> using the drain plugs and not used any antifreeze. That has worked in
> Toronto
> for the last nine years.
>
> I did experiment with a thin tube and suction pump the first year to see
> how much water
> was left in the block. I doubt it was a rigorous test but there was not
> much.
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C 30-1
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Open CPN

[phorvati . via CnC-List]

Great idea.  My phone charts are only as backup but for that price, having
a mpuse is probably well worth it.
On Sep 24, 2016 6:30 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Peter- go to NewEgg and get a USB to go for $1.49 . Heck, while you're at
> it,  get a half dozen and give some to your friends.  You can plug a mouse
> into it and have mouse functionality on your Android or tablet.  Not sure
> about IOS.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
> C 39
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Petar Horvatic via CnC-List 
> Date: 9/23/16 14:02 (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Petar Horvatic 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Open CPN
>
> I put a micro SD on my phone, loaded with those free Coast guard raster
> charts.  Android version of OpenCPN is really nice.   I find myself using
> that more often than the garmin chart plotter.Gps works pretty good.
> I’ve been making a point to see how far off I am from various buoys as go
> past them.  It’s pretty accurate.  Even my kids Tablet Galaxy Tab 2 has a
> version of openCPN, with its own Micro SD card and charts.   He is 8 and
> navigates using his own device.I would trust either of them in an
> emergency.  Obviously you always want redundancy.
>
> Course planning is difficult without a mouse.   I have a 12V PC for that,
> with external GPS via serial port,  running windows version of OpenCPN.
>
>
>
>
>
> Petar Horvatic
>
> Sundowner
>
> 76 C 38MkII
>
> Newport, RI
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Della
> Barba, Joe via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, September 23, 2016 1:42 PM
> *To:* 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Open CPN
>
>
>
> I cannot say enough good about it. If it were possible to buy daylight
> waterproof displays for less than a commercial chart plotter costs
> Raytheon, B, Sitex, etc. would all be unable to sell any plotters.
>
> The real downsides are the current demands of a PC and relative fragility
> of the hardware.  I use an ancient IBM ThinkPad as my nav PC. It can run on
> straight 12 volts if need be (I have an 18 volt adapter that charges it and
> runs it) and is NEVER connected to any network EVER. It has nothing on it
> but OpenCPN and PSK-31 software for the SSB.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Fred Hazzard via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, September 23, 2016 1:32 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Fred Hazzard
> *Subject:* Stus-List Open CPN
>
>
>
> I am looking for what others think about the open CPN navigation program.
>
>
>
> Fred Hazzard
>
> S/V Fury
>
> C 44
>
> Portland, Or
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas

[phorvati . via CnC-List]

Thanks guys,

I will try to tap and sound my way to see how far away from genoa track the
rot extends. I have oversized the backing plate back in 2004.  I have 2"
wide x 3/8" thick aluminum bars as opposed to original which I believe was
1"x1/4".  If tapping does not work, I will drill to find where rot ends.  I
plan to cut over the weekend and based on that i was thinking maybe to get
a 50yd roll of 10" or 12" wide 9oz cloth tape.  I don't know if you know
about this guy but he is very reasonable.  I've been getting gelcoat, resin
and fiberglass from him for years.  I also got interlux perfection and
primer for topsides I did few years back.

http://www.mertons.com/Reinforcements/cloth_tape.html

thanks again,
Petar


On Wed, Feb 3, 2016 at 1:53 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Petar,
>
>
>
> Based on repairing significant areas of rotten and wet core on Calypso I
> agree with what Mike Hoyt posted.  I did most of Calypso’s repairs from the
> inside owing to the ease of access and the many contoured areas involved.
> With a repair under a genoa track, especially if your access to the
> underside is limited working from the top will be far easier.
>
>
>
> When I was tracking down the extent of rot and very wet core I used a
> ballpeen hammer and tapped all around the suspect deck.  Start in a known
> dry, well bonded area and calibrate your ear to the sound.  Likely well
> bonded laminates will sound “sharp” or “bright”.  Then move to a known or
> suspected failed area.  The sound will likely become “dull” or “hollow”.  I
> also made many test holes as Mike described.
>
>
>
> If you are lucky the damaged areas are all concentrated around the
> fastener holes and the repair areas will be small.
>
>
>
> As to how wet balsa can be without concern, I recommend you visit Baltek’s
> web site.  Baltek has links to some studies that compare % of moisture to
> core strength.  Let me know if you cannot find those reports as I likely
> still have copies stashed somewhere in my many C 43 restoration archives.
>
>
>
> Martin DeYoung
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C 43
>
> Seattle
>
>
> [image: Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Petar
> Horvatic via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 03, 2016 8:45 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Petar Horvatic
> *Subject:* Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I am getting ready to tackle the wet deck along the port genoa track and
> before I start cutting, I  have few questions for the group.
>
>
>
> Gelcoat cracks and delamination is appearing almost the length of the
> track on my 38 Mk2.   I realize that not all spider cracks are due to wet
> core, but there is some strong indication that at least  ¾ section of geona
> track area is rotten.   Namely, top deck is noticeably indented along the
> track from compression of backing plate and track screws.  I also remember
> that water was coming out of the tracks in areas where track was under
> load.Especially area in the aft section.  I pulled the track off last
> night and there is strong oxidation along the aluminum backing plate where
> ss washers and nuts were.
>
>
>
> Any idea on how to determine how far athwartship to go when cutting out
> the top laminate?  I guess tap with a mallet?  Do people mostly save the
> top laminate or decide to lay new one from scratch?  I am also thinking
> that it would be better to cut the area so entire genoa track is included
> so that I don’t have to deal with potential of uneven surface between
> repair area and untouched area where genoa track lies.   I can foresee
> potential issues with the car not riding smoothly in area of that
> transition.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Petar Horvatic
>
> Sundowner
>
> 76 C 38MkII
>
> On the hard at Stanley’s in Barrington
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Zinc decay

[phorvati . via CnC-List]

Sometimes its nothing you did.  My theory is that besides changing galvanic
properties of underwater metals, like prop, nut, shaft shark, at a worst
case  boat wiring deteriorates over time.  This could result in more stray
current.  Current not going back to negative of the bank, but instead
leaving via prop shaft and your zinc.   Obviously very small amount, but
enough over a season to notice deeper deterioration.
On Dec 24, 2015 11:48 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" 
wrote:
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Replacement Holding Tank - 1982 CC 34

[phorvati . via CnC-List]

I was told 3 way valves are a source of cloggs.  Have an extra tank fitting
and a marcerator pump for overboard discharge.  It's been 12 troublefree
years since I installed my tank.   I didn't have a tank before that.
Petar
On Aug 28, 2015 4:42 PM, Damian Greene via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 It looks like I'll need to replace the holding tank on my 1982 CC 34 -
 weeping crack in the sidewall at the discharge penetration (creating smelly
 mess in the bilge). I could try to get it plastic-welded, but likely the
 best route for a winter project will be to replace the tank, and the hoses
  3-way valve while I'm at it.

 Replacement tanks were discussed some months back, but I'm not finding it
 in the archive.

 So...

 Where do I get the tank dimensions (and I will confirm when I remove the
 current tank).

 Where do I go to purchase a replacement tank? I remember a couple of
 companies were recommended.Ideally someone who would have the tank as an
 off-the shelf item?

 Thanks,

 Damian Greene
 1982 CC 34 GHOST
 Bass Harbor, Maine



 ___

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

[phorvati . via CnC-List]

And make sure you have zinc anodes.  Electrolysis will eat something.
On Aug 29, 2015 8:51 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 Put a meter on it and read what kind of voltage you are getting. 110V AC
 does not generally give little shocks.

 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC

 On 29 August 2015 at 16:15, Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


 I'm working my way down my project list and finally got to my hot water
 tank.  The PO just told me that it didn't work.  I was getting 120V at the
 heating element so I checked the element and it was fried.

 I installed a new element and turned it on for a test. Got hot water
 after about 10 min, so I went to close everything up. But when I was doing
 that I touched the pressure relief valve and got a small shock.

 The green ground wire runs to one of the mouting bolts on the heating
 element and also to the water tank frame. So that seems ok. I also checked
 for continuity between the hot and neutral wires and the relief valve or
 frame and got none.

 So i'm puzzled. The shock wasn't big, but i definitely felt something.
 Any ideas???

 Thanks,

 Mike
 Atacama 33 mk ii
 Toronto
 Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
 Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
 ___

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



 ___

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List baby stay on a 38Mk2

[phorvati . via CnC-List]

So I just went up there again to fix the steaming light, and the crack is
less than an inch.  I'm thinkingof just keepig an eye on it to make sure it
doesn't expand.   If I do dynema I have to make sure shackles and thimbles
are rated for same strength.  Is a 1/4 stainless  thimble same rating as
1/4 dyneema, 7200lbs?
On Aug 3, 2015 5:21 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 I bet the Dyneema will do the trick easily. That's what I would do.
 Andy
 CC 40
 Peregrine

 On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 4:29 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Has anyone replaced the baby stay on a 38 Mk2.  It is a ¼” 1/19 wire
 braid.

 I am asking b/c I discovered a crack at the swage on the mast end.  Crack
 is pretty good, about 1.5” longitudinal.

 I’m weighing in the following options

 1.   Send to rigger and have him swage identical replacement (likely
 no sailing this weekend)

 2.   Get sta-lock or norseman terminals and swage it myself, I have
 spare ¼” wire rope.

 3.   Use some of the Dyneema SK78 7mm line I have to make a
 babystay.  Its 7200lbs and I originally bought it for my running backstays.



 A while back I added an inner forestay with ¼” wire rope, and running
 backstays so I have support at the second spreader, but if I leave it for
 the offseason, this crack will linger in the back of my mind every time I
 head out.



 Petar Horvatic

 Sundowner

 76 CC 38MkII

 Newport, RI







 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Hoyt,
 Mike via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Monday, July 27, 2015 8:45 AM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List winches



 Harold



 Larger diameter sheets maybe?



 Is there any relation to Andrew and Karen Higginbottom in Nova Scotia?



 Mike

 Persistence

 (currently in Cape Breton)



 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
 *patricia
 barkley-higginbottom via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Saturday, July 25, 2015 2:42 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Cc:* patricia barkley-higginbottom
 *Subject:* Stus-List winches



 Have an original equipment Barient 27 two speed self tailer winch on my
 35-3 which allows the genoa sheet to slip under load, even when there are
 three wraps on the winch. The self tailer does not hold the line in a
 predictable fashion, releasing at the most inconvenient times., Is this a
 common problem, and is there anyway of improving the grip with either a
 replacement part or modifying the existing serrations. The sheets are
 relatively new, and only one winch has this problem.

 Harold

 Celtic Spirit

 Hamilton, ON.

 ___

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





 --
 Andrew Burton
 61 W Narragansett Ave
 Newport, RI
 USA 02840
 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
 phone  +401 965 5260

 ___

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List One for the hams in the group

[phorvati . via CnC-List]

I have an m710 which I used on ham frequencies to hook up to winlink
stations via pactor III and get grib file and email.  My tuner is AT-130.
My antenna is an insulated backstay.  My counterpoise was an overkill.  I
glassed in 100' of 6 wide copper tape along the inside of the hull.  In
the lazarette, and as many compartments as feasible.  I bonded it to all
other metal like toerail, stanchions, etc, and setup few capacitors to
bridge the copper foil to the keelbolt.  While cruising in the carribean, I
was connectig to stations as far as  Ohio, Nova Scotia and Panama.  I
haven't used the setup in a while as I'm mostly bound to coastal new
England.
On Jul 7, 2015 10:22 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 Very close to getting my ham rig running on Paws.  This was a zero budget
 project with parts accumulated over the past few years.  Ended up with an
 Icom 706 that that I bought used from a co-worker, a narrow pass filter
 from a swap meet and a KISS counterpoise which I have high hopes for.
 Finally added an AH-4 tuner which they are giving away right now.  Will rig
 a temporary longwire antenna which I will make permanent over the winter if
 successful.  Looking forward to indulging my other hobby.  Fun stuff!

 John


 ___

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List westerbeake sucking in air on a half tank

[phorvati . via CnC-List]

Great, just as I thought work is done, and its time to enjoy summer
sailing
On Jul 6, 2015 9:12 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Petar — it might be that the fuel pickup tube is corroded, and either
 doesn’t drop as far down into the fuel as it should/used to, or you have
 some pits in it above the half-tank level that allow air it.  Sounds like
 time to pull and check it.

 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 On Jul 6, 2015, at 8:09 AM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Anyone has an idea why this happened twice in a row.

 Two trips to Block island this year and at about the same spot, right
 where seas get a little lumpy, and on about half full tank, diesel sucks in
 air and dies.  First time was pounding into 20-kts (not a good way to
 travel), second time with no wind but large confused seas.
 The first time I sailed and dropped a hook before bleeding the injectors.
  Second time I added 5 gal jerry can and after bleeding injectors in 6 foot
 swell got her started without a problem.   Ran fine after that in same
 conditions.

 I guess I should check to make sure fuel gauge is calibrated, although
 I’ve been using it the past 3-4 years.


 Petar Horvatic
 Sundowner
 76 CC 38MkII
 Newport, RI



 ___

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Main sail slides

[phorvati . via CnC-List]

Thanks.  Those are all great tips.  So far I ordered sizing kit for tides
marine system.  I purchased main sail two years ago used but in very good
condition.  I tore up the luff pretty good.  Current repair is holding
good, but I would not trust it in gail conditions.  I plan to adress is
better when adding the new track.
Petar
S.V Sundowner
'76 CC 38 mk II
Newport, RI
On Jul 3, 2015 11:51 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List CC 37+ engine size

[phorvati . via CnC-List]

James
that sounds like tough way to get anywhere, and break something in a
process.  I had A4 for about 10 years on the same boat '76 38.  Switched to
westerbeke 40 in 2012.   I don't see a great amount of increased power when
going to wind between A4 to W40.  As you said, power comes from the sail.
But in calm conditions I do get better speed over water, perhaps my
prop(15/9 3 blade fixed)  is better suited for W40. I was hoping for a
greater increase in power in all conditions which is just not the case.
These bots are just not meant to motor into heavy seas.  One difference is
that with A4, i was always in the engine room.  Something always needed
tinkering...coil, carb, cables, sparkplugs, antifreeze leaks...etc, etc.
always something.  With a diesel, i don't really have to do anything
besides change 3 filters twice a year.  I believe they are just built
better.  And i was a big fan of A4.  Rebuilt two of them on two different
boats.   The only thing i wish now is that i had done the re-power sooner.
And in terms of expense, I bought a used w40 with hurth tranny for $1000.
Machining and complete rebuild kit were about another $2500. Put it all
together and with the help of few friends hoisted it using the mast and
boom while the boat was out of the water.  Kept all engine instruments,
even the RPM meter which i had to do a bit of electronic re-work and
calibration to make it work. Kept the tank, but changed fuel hoses and
filters.   Changed exhaust to 2.  And i invested in nice isolation mounts
and engine controls.  A lot of DIY but very reasonable in terms of cost.
Very very glad i did this.

Petar
S.V. Sundowner
1976 CC 38 mk2


On Tue, Jan 13, 2015 at 2:53 AM, jtsails via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

   AT4 is no different than any diesel when it comes to rpm’s, try running
 a Yanmar as a direct drive with no reduction gear-you’d have the same
 problems. I have a 2:1 reduction A4 in my 38 and it does as well as or
 better than all of the reports I’m reading in these posts, although I will
 say I burn a little more fuel to do it. Not enough to ever pay to
 compensate for the expense of swapping to a diesel. The key is to match the
 prop to the engine and to run the engine in the rpm range that maximizes
 the power/efficiency ratio. For my boat with an A4 that means 2800 rpms
 (making about 23-25hp) at 1.1 gph which gives me 6.4 knots with a clean
 bottom and smooth water. To punch into waves I put the main up (with a reef
 if needed) and can make about 7 knots in any condition that I have come
 across. That includes motoring into a 28 knot head wind with 4-6 ft waves
 that were about 20ft apart (water depth 15ft). Took a lot of waves over
 the bow and got very wet on every wave, but went through it like a champ!
 No engine that you could possibly fit in the boat would have pushed through
 those waves, but the sail and engine combo
 James
 S/V Delaney
 1976 38
 Oriental, NC

  *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Monday, January 12, 2015 8:40 PM
 *To:* Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com ; CnClist CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List CC 37+ engine size

  Also remember Yanmar wants to sell more (i.e., bigger) engine.  :)

 Dennis C.

 On Mon, Jan 12, 2015 at 7:12 PM, Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com wrote:

 37+ = 16700lbs
 1.5 per 1000 = 25hp
 1 per 500 = 33.4hp

 Remember the 3HM35F has funny ratings.  IIRC they call it a 30hp engine
 but at 3400rpm it's actual output is ~32hp and at 3600rpm it puts out ~34hp.

 Josh
 Josh pretty much restated my argument for repowering from an AT4 to
 a diesel.  My main reasons were flatter torque curve and better  fuel
 economy.  The gasoline flammability issue had very little to do with my
 decision.

 Punching into a seaway with an AT4 sucks.  To generate the horsepower, an
 AT4 needs rpm's.  The 1:1 drive just results in making bubbles.  A diesel
 with a flat torque curve, a reduction gear and a big pitched prop takes a
 bigger bite without cavitating.  Blenders are great for frozen drinks but
 not for driving a boat through waves.

 The admiral and I spent a couple hours punching dead upwind in a narrow
 channel one day in 3-4 foot seas and mid-teens on the nose.  Sucked.
 Sitting back in Mandeville was a brand new 25 hp diesel and all the parts
 to repower.  We just didn't have time to complete the swap before that trip.

 As for the original thread, Yanmar, I think, recommends 1 hp per 500 lbs
 displacement.  I think that's a bit light.

 I seem to recall Nigel Calder recommends 1.5 hp per 1000 lbs.

 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA

 On Mon, Jan 12, 2015 at 5:46 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Josh,



 Great reply with good detail.  I’ve had my share of bashing into heavy
 seas and with just the engine, it can’t be tough going.  My 30hp Yanmar
 maintains a steady 3000 rpm, regardless of speed in these conditions.
 Heck, we could be sliding backwards and the