Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless
Regarding the backflow valve and or check valve, it is not recommended to install one. There is a great possibility that one day it will get dry algae and will get stuck. Most likely this will happen when it is the last think you want in your schedule. Yanni 92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible 95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible 07 Yamaha Straotoliner S SCRC 011059 SRO 26-6483 TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!! Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes? Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard via CnC-List Sent: October 13, 2014 4:49 PM To: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless Do you have a backflow valve in the discharge line? Until I put one in, the water in the hose would flow back in and start the pump again. My line from the pump to the back of the boat was about 15 feet long. Fred Hazzard S/V Fury CC 44 Portland, Or On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 1:32 PM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Tom, I had a cycling problem with my bilge switch as well...it would take forever to switch off. It finally fried itself after a season. When I installed my new one (different make and directly on the bottom the bilge like you did), I had the same problem! But then I played with the angle of the pump and set it so that the float end of the pump was slightly higher than the pump end. This will give you a clean shut-off. I just used a shim under the pump base to achieve this. Mike CC 33 mk II Toronto Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network. Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Spewing dripless
Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems along the way. But I have two maintanence issues. 1. Automatic Bilge Switch problems Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to the bilge to use with the switch. There was no auto switch on her when we got her a few years ago and since we keep her in the water all year, I needed to install one. I like state of the art electronics so I went with the fully electronic Ultima Bilge Pump Switch. Instead of mounting the switch to a 1/4 piece of plywood as instructed, I mounted it to the floor of the Bilge directly. which may be contributing to the bad cycling problem. The first one I installed started coming on and refusing to shut down until we cycled the manual switch. This week end it was so bad I just pulled the fuse. This weirdness had started when we were on our summer cruise. So, I had a replacement switch on board. I replaced the switch, but may have screwed the wiring up. It ran, but did not shut down. So, as I have been doing before when it would not shut down, I cycled the manual switch and it shut down...but from the way it shut down, I suspect I fried something because the switch is not working at all now. I checked the breaker panel and all's well there. The in line fuse I installed with the switch is fine as well.The manual switch is still functional...thank god! (see 2 below!) 2 Dripping dripless bearing In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West in Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing. As a result of the bilge switch issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run back yesterday. The bilge was substantially filled. I traced the ingress to the dripless bearing which was spewing water everywhere. Not enough to outpace the electric bilge pump or require whalegusher intervention. After we docked I checked and the rotor was loose enough for me to turn it on the shaft. I am getting the documentation from the yard to make sure I get the right parts, but as I understand it, I should not just tighten the set screws, but replace them to be sure they bite, then use a 2nd set crew and lock tight to lock them in place. Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless bearing maintenance or anything else? Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless
If the set screws for the seal have a point, consider drilling a small detent in the shaft. Install one set screw snugly to hold the flange in position, use a small drill to make the detent in the other hole. Then install that set screw tightly with threadlocker. Remove the first screw and make a detent for it. Dennis C. On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems along the way. But I have two maintanence issues. 1. Automatic Bilge Switch problems Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to the bilge to use with the switch. There was no auto switch on her when we got her a few years ago and since we keep her in the water all year, I needed to install one. I like state of the art electronics so I went with the fully electronic Ultima Bilge Pump Switch. Instead of mounting the switch to a 1/4 piece of plywood as instructed, I mounted it to the floor of the Bilge directly. which may be contributing to the bad cycling problem. The first one I installed started coming on and refusing to shut down until we cycled the manual switch. This week end it was so bad I just pulled the fuse. This weirdness had started when we were on our summer cruise. So, I had a replacement switch on board. I replaced the switch, but may have screwed the wiring up. It ran, but did not shut down. So, as I have been doing before when it would not shut down, I cycled the manual switch and it shut down...but from the way it shut down, I suspect I fried something because the switch is not working at all now. I checked the breaker panel and all's well there. The in line fuse I installed with the switch is fine as well.The manual switch is still functional...thank god! (see 2 below!) 2 Dripping dripless bearing In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West in Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing. As a result of the bilge switch issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run back yesterday. The bilge was substantially filled. I traced the ingress to the dripless bearing which was spewing water everywhere. Not enough to outpace the electric bilge pump or require whalegusher intervention. After we docked I checked and the rotor was loose enough for me to turn it on the shaft. I am getting the documentation from the yard to make sure I get the right parts, but as I understand it, I should not just tighten the set screws, but replace them to be sure they bite, then use a 2nd set crew and lock tight to lock them in place. Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless bearing maintenance or anything else? Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless
OK, for the bilge pump switch. Is it this one? http://www.electricmarine.com/web/bad_practice.htm#bilge I prefer the USS Mini Bilge Switch. Bottom one on this site: http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=pumpswitch_price I usually wire a Rule Manual-Off-Auto bilge switch to the terminal for one of the batteries on the back of the main battery switch for constant power. The auto side of the switch goes to one wire of the float switch. The other wire of the float switch is connected to both the Manual side of the bilge switch and the positive of the pump. Dennis C. On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems along the way. But I have two maintanence issues. 1. Automatic Bilge Switch problems Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to the bilge to use with the switch. There was no auto switch on her when we got her a few years ago and since we keep her in the water all year, I needed to install one. I like state of the art electronics so I went with the fully electronic Ultima Bilge Pump Switch. Instead of mounting the switch to a 1/4 piece of plywood as instructed, I mounted it to the floor of the Bilge directly. which may be contributing to the bad cycling problem. The first one I installed started coming on and refusing to shut down until we cycled the manual switch. This week end it was so bad I just pulled the fuse. This weirdness had started when we were on our summer cruise. So, I had a replacement switch on board. I replaced the switch, but may have screwed the wiring up. It ran, but did not shut down. So, as I have been doing before when it would not shut down, I cycled the manual switch and it shut down...but from the way it shut down, I suspect I fried something because the switch is not working at all now. I checked the breaker panel and all's well there. The in line fuse I installed with the switch is fine as well.The manual switch is still functional...thank god! (see 2 below!) 2 Dripping dripless bearing In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West in Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing. As a result of the bilge switch issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run back yesterday. The bilge was substantially filled. I traced the ingress to the dripless bearing which was spewing water everywhere. Not enough to outpace the electric bilge pump or require whalegusher intervention. After we docked I checked and the rotor was loose enough for me to turn it on the shaft. I am getting the documentation from the yard to make sure I get the right parts, but as I understand it, I should not just tighten the set screws, but replace them to be sure they bite, then use a 2nd set crew and lock tight to lock them in place. Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless bearing maintenance or anything else? Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless
Dripless seal - As a backup for the set screws it is pretty painless to install an anode on the shaft up against the rotor. Graham Collins Secret Plans CC 35-III #11 On 2014-10-13 4:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: If the set screws for the seal have a point, consider drilling a small detent in the shaft. Install one set screw snugly to hold the flange in position, use a small drill to make the detent in the other hole. Then install that set screw tightly with threadlocker. Remove the first screw and make a detent for it. Dennis C. On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems along the way. But I have two maintanence issues. 1. Automatic Bilge Switch problems Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to the bilge to use with the switch. There was no auto switch on her when we got her a few years ago and since we keep her in the water all year, I needed to install one. I like state of the art electronics so I went with the fully electronic Ultima Bilge Pump Switch. Instead of mounting the switch to a 1/4 piece of plywood as instructed, I mounted it to the floor of the Bilge directly. which may be contributing to the bad cycling problem. The first one I installed started coming on and refusing to shut down until we cycled the manual switch. This week end it was so bad I just pulled the fuse. This weirdness had started when we were on our summer cruise. So, I had a replacement switch on board. I replaced the switch, but may have screwed the wiring up. It ran, but did not shut down. So, as I have been doing before when it would not shut down, I cycled the manual switch and it shut down...but from the way it shut down, I suspect I fried something because the switch is not working at all now. I checked the breaker panel and all's well there. The in line fuse I installed with the switch is fine as well.The manual switch is still functional...thank god! (see 2 below!) 2 Dripping dripless bearing In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West in Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing. As a result of the bilge switch issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run back yesterday. The bilge was substantially filled. I traced the ingress to the dripless bearing which was spewing water everywhere. Not enough to outpace the electric bilge pump or require whalegusher intervention. After we docked I checked and the rotor was loose enough for me to turn it on the shaft. I am getting the documentation from the yard to make sure I get the right parts, but as I understand it, I should not just tighten the set screws, but replace them to be sure they bite, then use a 2nd set crew and lock tight to lock them in place. Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless bearing maintenance or anything else? Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 tel:%28206%29%20463-9200 www.sv-alera.com http://www.sv-alera.com/ ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless
If the set screws for the seal have a point, consider drilling a small detent in the shaft. Install one set screw snugly to hold the flange in position, use a small drill to make the detent in the other hole. Then install that set screw tightly with threadlocker. Remove the first screw and make a detent for it. De-burr any detents or scratches on the shaft before sliding the rotor with its O-rings over the detents. Damaging the O-rings will lead to seeping leaks. I also strongly encourage brand new set-screws for the first set screw into the rotor's threaded holes. The second one can be used as the need for a fresh bite into the shaft is less. As always, do what the guy's at PYI say, both over the phone and on their web site. Martin Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle [Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F] From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham Collins via CnC-List Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 1:16 PM To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless Dripless seal - As a backup for the set screws it is pretty painless to install an anode on the shaft up against the rotor. Graham Collins Secret Plans CC 35-III #11 On 2014-10-13 4:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: If the set screws for the seal have a point, consider drilling a small detent in the shaft. Install one set screw snugly to hold the flange in position, use a small drill to make the detent in the other hole. Then install that set screw tightly with threadlocker. Remove the first screw and make a detent for it. Dennis C. On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems along the way. But I have two maintanence issues. 1. Automatic Bilge Switch problems Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to the bilge to use with the switch. There was no auto switch on her when we got her a few years ago and since we keep her in the water all year, I needed to install one. I like state of the art electronics so I went with the fully electronic Ultima Bilge Pump Switch. Instead of mounting the switch to a 1/4 piece of plywood as instructed, I mounted it to the floor of the Bilge directly. which may be contributing to the bad cycling problem. The first one I installed started coming on and refusing to shut down until we cycled the manual switch. This week end it was so bad I just pulled the fuse. This weirdness had started when we were on our summer cruise. So, I had a replacement switch on board. I replaced the switch, but may have screwed the wiring up. It ran, but did not shut down. So, as I have been doing before when it would not shut down, I cycled the manual switch and it shut down...but from the way it shut down, I suspect I fried something because the switch is not working at all now. I checked the breaker panel and all's well there. The in line fuse I installed with the switch is fine as well.The manual switch is still functional...thank god! (see 2 below!) 2 Dripping dripless bearing In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West in Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing. As a result of the bilge switch issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run back yesterday. The bilge was substantially filled. I traced the ingress to the dripless bearing which was spewing water everywhere. Not enough to outpace the electric bilge pump or require whalegusher intervention. After we docked I checked and the rotor was loose enough for me to turn it on the shaft. I am getting the documentation from the yard to make sure I get the right parts, but as I understand it, I should not just tighten the set screws, but replace them to be sure they bite, then use a 2nd set crew and lock tight to lock them in place. Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless bearing maintenance or anything else? Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200tel:%28206%29%20463-9200 www.sv-alera.com http://www.sv-alera.com/ ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless
Hi Tom, I had a cycling problem with my bilge switch as well...it would take forever to switch off. It finally fried itself after a season. When I installed my new one (different make and directly on the bottom the bilge like you did), I had the same problem! But then I played with the angle of the pump and set it so that the float end of the pump was slightly higher than the pump end. This will give you a clean shut-off. I just used a shim under the pump base to achieve this. Mike CC 33 mk II Toronto Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network. Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless
Do you have a backflow valve in the discharge line? Until I put one in, the water in the hose would flow back in and start the pump again. My line from the pump to the back of the boat was about 15 feet long. Fred Hazzard S/V Fury CC 44 Portland, Or On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 1:32 PM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Tom, I had a cycling problem with my bilge switch as well...it would take forever to switch off. It finally fried itself after a season. When I installed my new one (different make and directly on the bottom the bilge like you did), I had the same problem! But then I played with the angle of the pump and set it so that the float end of the pump was slightly higher than the pump end. This will give you a clean shut-off. I just used a shim under the pump base to achieve this. Mike CC 33 mk II Toronto Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network. Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless
No, no backflow valve. That was going to be my next attempt to fix the problem if changing the pump angle didn't work. Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network. Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell. -Original Message- From: Fred Hazzard fshazz...@gmail.com Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 13:49:12 To: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless Do you have a backflow valve in the discharge line? Until I put one in, the water in the hose would flow back in and start the pump again. My line from the pump to the back of the boat was about 15 feet long. Fred Hazzard S/V Fury CC 44 Portland, Or On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 1:32 PM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Tom, I had a cycling problem with my bilge switch as well...it would take forever to switch off. It finally fried itself after a season. When I installed my new one (different make and directly on the bottom the bilge like you did), I had the same problem! But then I played with the angle of the pump and set it so that the float end of the pump was slightly higher than the pump end. This will give you a clean shut-off. I just used a shim under the pump base to achieve this. Mike CC 33 mk II Toronto Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network. Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Spewing dripless
Tom, I had the same symptoms on Cat’s Paw last fall. Turned out that the rubber bellows was probably quite old and was very stiff. You might consider a new bellows and SS rotor from PYI. They also sell an additional SS clamp which is attached just in front of the rotor and which clamps onto the shaft, like a zinc anode on the prop shaft. So it is a good safety that does not depend on the set screws. A pain to replace the bellows but it completely solved the problem. PYI recommends changing the bellows every few years. Eric Frank Cat's Paw CC 35 Mk II Mattapoisett, MA 2 Dripping dripless bearing In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West in Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing. As a result of the bilge switch issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run back yesterday. The bilge was substantially filled. I traced the ingress to the dripless bearing which was spewing water everywhere. Not enough to outpace the electric bilge pump or require whalegusher intervention. After we docked I checked and the rotor was loose enough for me to turn it on the shaft. I am getting the documentation from the yard to make sure I get the right parts, but as I understand it, I should not just tighten the set screws, but replace them to be sure they bite, then use a 2nd set crew and lock tight to lock them in place. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless
Re 2. No question that you should replace the set screws (they work once and that's it). However, in the meantime, you can reposition the rotor and secure it with the existing set screws plus an extra protection. The simplest might be a hose clamp (I would not recommend to keep it there, but it would do for a few days). A better solution is a retention collar from PYI (the makers of the dripless shaft seal) - http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=src http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=srcaction=main action=main . It has much better retention bolts. This is how it looks on my boat: https://www.dropbox.com/s/9p3y01pzqwpj3dt/IMAG0158.jpg?dl=0 . Btw. check that your compression of the bellows is correct. When I had my PSS installed, the compression was not enough and I was spewing water (not much but noticeable). Another btw. Make sure that you are not dripping from the venting tube. To start with, you have to run it high enough (it is quite surprising how high is the water level when you are in the engine compartment). But worse - if you do a lot of gear shifting (forward - reverse etc.) you can push quite a bit of water through that venting tube. My theory is that when you reverse, the prop sends quite a bit of water towards the stern tube and the pressure rises and the water goes up in the venting tube. If you do a lot of manoeuvring, it will eventually spill over from the end of it. Good luck Marek s/v Legato in Ottawa From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 3:22 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Spewing dripless Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems along the way. But I have two maintanence issues. 1. Automatic Bilge Switch problems Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to the bilge to use with the switch. There was no auto switch on her when we got her a few years ago and since we keep her in the water all year, I needed to install one. I like state of the art electronics so I went with the fully electronic Ultima Bilge Pump Switch. Instead of mounting the switch to a 1/4 piece of plywood as instructed, I mounted it to the floor of the Bilge directly. which may be contributing to the bad cycling problem. The first one I installed started coming on and refusing to shut down until we cycled the manual switch. This week end it was so bad I just pulled the fuse. This weirdness had started when we were on our summer cruise. So, I had a replacement switch on board. I replaced the switch, but may have screwed the wiring up. It ran, but did not shut down. So, as I have been doing before when it would not shut down, I cycled the manual switch and it shut down...but from the way it shut down, I suspect I fried something because the switch is not working at all now. I checked the breaker panel and all's well there. The in line fuse I installed with the switch is fine as well. The manual switch is still functional...thank god! (see 2 below!) 2 Dripping dripless bearing In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West in Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing. As a result of the bilge switch issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run back yesterday. The bilge was substantially filled. I traced the ingress to the dripless bearing which was spewing water everywhere. Not enough to outpace the electric bilge pump or require whalegusher intervention. After we docked I checked and the rotor was loose enough for me to turn it on the shaft. I am getting the documentation from the yard to make sure I get the right parts, but as I understand it, I should not just tighten the set screws, but replace them to be sure they bite, then use a 2nd set crew and lock tight to lock them in place. Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless bearing maintenance or anything else? Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com http://www.sv-alera.com/ ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
