OK, for the bilge pump switch. Is it this one? http://www.electricmarine.com/web/bad_practice.htm#bilge
I prefer the USS Mini Bilge Switch. Bottom one on this site: http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=pumpswitch_price I usually wire a Rule Manual-Off-Auto bilge switch to the terminal for one of the batteries on the back of the main battery switch for constant power. The auto side of the switch goes to one wire of the float switch. The other wire of the float switch is connected to both the Manual side of the bilge switch and the positive of the pump. Dennis C. On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List < [email protected]> wrote: > Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems along > the way. But I have two maintanence issues. > > 1. Automatic Bilge Switch problems > > Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to the > bilge to use with the switch. There was no auto switch on her when we got > her a few years ago and since we keep her in the water all year, I needed > to install one. I like state of the art electronics so I went with the > fully electronic Ultima Bilge Pump Switch. Instead of mounting the switch > to a 1/4" piece of plywood as instructed, I mounted it to the floor of the > Bilge directly. which may be contributing to the bad cycling problem. The > first one I installed started coming on and refusing to shut down until we > cycled the manual switch. This week end it was so bad I just pulled the > fuse. This weirdness had started when we were on our summer cruise. So, I > had a replacement switch on board. I replaced the switch, but may have > screwed the wiring up. It ran, but did not shut down. So, as I have been > doing before when it would not shut down, I cycled the manual switch and it > shut down...but from the way it shut down, I suspect I fried something > because the switch is not working at all now. I checked the breaker panel > and all's well there. The in line fuse I installed with the switch is fine > as well. The manual switch is still functional...thank god! (see 2 > below!) > > > 2 Dripping dripless bearing > > In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West in > Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing. As a result of the bilge > switch issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run back > yesterday. The bilge was substantially filled. I traced the ingress to > the dripless bearing which was spewing water everywhere. Not enough to > outpace the electric bilge pump or require whalegusher intervention. After > we docked I checked and the rotor was loose enough for me to turn it on the > shaft. I am getting the documentation from the yard to make sure I get the > right parts, but as I understand it, I should not just tighten the set > screws, but replace them to be sure they bite, then use a 2nd set crew and > lock tight to lock them in place. > > Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless bearing > maintenance or anything else? > > Tom B > > Tom Buscaglia > SV Alera > 1990 C&C 37+/40 > Vashon Island WA > (206) 463-9200 > www.sv-alera.com > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > [email protected] > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > >
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