Re 2. No question that you should replace the set screws (they work once and that's it). However, in the meantime, you can reposition the "rotor" and secure it with the existing set screws plus an extra protection. The simplest might be a hose clamp (I would not recommend to keep it there, but it would do for a few days). A better solution is a retention collar from PYI (the makers of the dripless shaft seal) - http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=src <http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=src&action=main> &action=main . It has much better retention bolts. This is how it looks on my boat: https://www.dropbox.com/s/9p3y01pzqwpj3dt/IMAG0158.jpg?dl=0 .
Btw. check that your compression of the bellows is correct. When I had my PSS installed, the compression was not enough and I was spewing water (not much but noticeable). Another btw. Make sure that you are not dripping from the venting tube. To start with, you have to run it high enough (it is quite surprising how high is the water level when you are in the engine compartment). But worse - if you do a lot of gear shifting (forward - reverse etc.) you can push quite a bit of water through that venting tube. My theory is that when you reverse, the prop sends quite a bit of water towards the stern tube and the pressure rises and the water goes up in the venting tube. If you do a lot of manoeuvring, it will eventually spill over from the end of it. Good luck Marek s/v "Legato" in Ottawa From: CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 3:22 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Stus-List Spewing dripless Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems along the way. But I have two maintanence issues. 1. Automatic Bilge Switch problems Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to the bilge to use with the switch. There was no auto switch on her when we got her a few years ago and since we keep her in the water all year, I needed to install one. I like state of the art electronics so I went with the fully electronic Ultima Bilge Pump Switch. Instead of mounting the switch to a 1/4" piece of plywood as instructed, I mounted it to the floor of the Bilge directly. which may be contributing to the bad cycling problem. The first one I installed started coming on and refusing to shut down until we cycled the manual switch. This week end it was so bad I just pulled the fuse. This weirdness had started when we were on our summer cruise. So, I had a replacement switch on board. I replaced the switch, but may have screwed the wiring up. It ran, but did not shut down. So, as I have been doing before when it would not shut down, I cycled the manual switch and it shut down...but from the way it shut down, I suspect I fried something because the switch is not working at all now. I checked the breaker panel and all's well there. The in line fuse I installed with the switch is fine as well. The manual switch is still functional...thank god! (see 2 below!) 2 Dripping dripless bearing In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West in Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing. As a result of the bilge switch issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run back yesterday. The bilge was substantially filled. I traced the ingress to the dripless bearing which was spewing water everywhere. Not enough to outpace the electric bilge pump or require whalegusher intervention. After we docked I checked and the rotor was loose enough for me to turn it on the shaft. I am getting the documentation from the yard to make sure I get the right parts, but as I understand it, I should not just tighten the set screws, but replace them to be sure they bite, then use a 2nd set crew and lock tight to lock them in place. Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless bearing maintenance or anything else? Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 C&C 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com <http://www.sv-alera.com/>
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