Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole Refinishing

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

  
  


I haven't redone my floorboards - but a few years ago I was
  varnishing hardwood stairs and wanted some traction to reduce
  risk.
I bought a small package of traction grit powder from Home Depot
  in the paint department. I was only a couple $ for a small pouch. 
  First run I sprinkled it onto the stair treads but it was hard to
  keep even.  I then tried mixing it right into the varnish - the
  white "powder" went mostly clear in the the varnish and spread far
  more evenly when I rolled it on with a mini-roller.  Gave a nice
  even coverage.
Mark





There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2019-11-28 12:26 a.m., Russ &
  Melody via CnC-List wrote:


  
  Hi Spencer,
  
  Good to hear. I too find that clear polyurethane coatings are too
  viscous
  for the shells dispersing... paint too.
  
  The idea of waiting until after tack is so you don't sand between
  coats.
  In this application a next day overcoat is usually just fine.
  
  I think someone else suggested taping the holly strips as I hadn't
  thought of it. Seems a little anal to me for something you trod on
  anyhow. A sole is supposed to functional not something that you
  might
  pour a wine and sit on to admire. Yeesh.
  
  I stopped using walnut shells on deck applications because the
  coating
  gets rubbed off quickly and the turn dark. In easy going
  applications
  it's not a concern. 
  On companionway treads & such I like the subtle contrast when
  it goes
  darker as it's good for old eyes to discern the steps, etc.
  
  Using that jam jar mod is brilliant. And I hear that down south it
  can
  also be used to apply bourbon (to yourself, without the lid).
  
  Cheers,
  Russ 
  ex-
Sweet 35 mk-1
  east
  side, Vancouver Island
  
  
  
  Hi Russ! Good
idea...I was just
following the included instructions by mixing with the
polyurethane
first...this kinda worked but didn't disperse the walnut shells
evenly.I
created a test board, put a few coats of Minwax Satin
Polyurethane on it,
then with a wet coat and a re-purposed jam jar with a nail hole
in the
top (not too big) I sprinkled as evenly as possible, let it dry
(spreading a wet coat over the not-so-wet coat kinda messed up
the bottom
coat). Letting it dry completely and adding another coat seemed
to work
as I liked.Taping the Holly stripes seemed to cause more surface
disruption...pulling the tape up right after laying down a coat
left tape
lines/ridges that are a bit annoying.=C2=A0 I will be testing
without
taping and see how annoying the walnut shells are on the holly..
UPDATE: Using an old jam jar with one small nail hole init for
the walnut
shells I was able to control the sprinkle onto the wet
polyurethane
evenly. 
The proof will be when I replace the cabin sole and lay down the
rugs to
see how easily they move around.
IF...any lister would like a supply of crushed walnut shells
just let me
know where to send it...I have about 2/3rds of an 18 oz jam jar
that I
will never use.  I would suspect that 2-3 tablespoons more than
cover a typical cabin sole...

Spencer Johnson
84 LF 38 "Alegria" #165
Racine, WI / Waukegan, IL
  
  
  ___

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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole Refinishing

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Spencer,

Good to hear. I too find that clear polyurethane coatings are too 
viscous for the shells dispersing... paint too.


The idea of waiting until after tack is so you don't sand between 
coats. In this application a next day overcoat is usually just fine.


I think someone else suggested taping the holly strips as I hadn't 
thought of it. Seems a little anal to me for something you trod on 
anyhow. A sole is supposed to functional not something that you might 
pour a wine and sit on to admire. Yeesh.


I stopped using walnut shells on deck applications because the 
coating gets rubbed off quickly and the turn dark. In easy going 
applications it's not a concern.
On companionway treads & such I like the subtle contrast when it goes 
darker as it's good for old eyes to discern the steps, etc.


Using that jam jar mod is brilliant. And I hear that down south it 
can also be used to apply bourbon (to yourself, without the lid).


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1
east side, Vancouver Island



Hi Russ! Good idea...I was just following the included instructions 
by mixing with the polyurethane first...this kinda worked but didn't 
disperse the walnut shells evenly.I created a test board, put a few 
coats of Minwax Satin Polyurethane on it, then with a wet coat and a 
re-purposed jam jar with a nail hole in the top (not too big) I 
sprinkled as evenly as possible, let it dry (spreading a wet coat 
over the not-so-wet coat kinda messed up the bottom coat). Letting 
it dry completely and adding another coat seemed to work as I 
liked.Taping the Holly stripes seemed to cause more surface 
disruption...pulling the tape up right after laying down a coat left 
tape lines/ridges that are a bit annoying.=C2=A0 I will be testing 
without taping and see how annoying the walnut shells are on the holly..
UPDATE: Using an old jam jar with one small nail hole init for the 
walnut shells I was able to control the sprinkle onto the wet 
polyurethane evenly.
The proof will be when I replace the cabin sole and lay down the 
rugs to see how easily they move around.
IF...any lister would like a supply of crushed walnut shells just 
let me know where to send it...I have about 2/3rds of an 18 oz jam 
jar that I will never use.  I would suspect that 2-3 tablespoons 
more than cover a typical cabin sole...


Spencer Johnson
84 LF 38 "Alegria" #165
Racine, WI / Waukegan, IL
___

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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole Refinishing

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

There are several products made to spray on the back of rugs to keep them
from slipping.  Search Amazon for "rug non skid spray".  Worth a try.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Nov 27, 2019 at 12:11 PM Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you must add non skid to your sole (and I thoroughly disapprove!), the
> best stuff is an Awl Grip product called GripTex. It is clear spheres so it
> blends better than walnut shells, which appear black underfoot. GripTex is
> also not as sharp as shells so there is less wear on your gear and toes.
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 139 Tuckerman Ave
> Middletown, RI
> USA02842
>
> www.burtonsailing.com
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Nov 27, 2019, at 12:59, Spencer Johnson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> The proof will be when I replace the cabin sole and lay down the rugs to
> see how easily they move around.
> IF...any lister would like a supply of crushed walnut shells just let me
> know where to send it...I have about 2/3rds of an 18 oz jam jar that I will
> never use.  I would suspect that 2-3 tablespoons more than cover a typical
> cabin sole...
>
> Spencer Johnson
> 84 LF 38 "Alegria" #165
> Racine, WI / Waukegan, IL
>
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole Refinishing

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

If you must add non skid to your sole (and I thoroughly disapprove!), the best 
stuff is an Awl Grip product called GripTex. It is clear spheres so it blends 
better than walnut shells, which appear black underfoot. GripTex is also not as 
sharp as shells so there is less wear on your gear and toes.
Andy

Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middletown, RI 
USA02842

www.burtonsailing.com
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Nov 27, 2019, at 12:59, Spencer Johnson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Russ! Good idea...I was just following the included instructions by mixing 
> with the polyurethane first...this kinda worked but didn't disperse the 
> walnut shells evenly.I created a test board, put a few coats of Minwax Satin 
> Polyurethane on it, then with a wet coat and a re-purposed jam jar with a 
> nail hole in the top (not too big) I sprinkled as evenly as possible, let it 
> dry (spreading a wet coat over the not-so-wet coat kinda messed up the bottom 
> coat). Letting it dry completely and adding another coat seemed to work as I 
> liked.Taping the Holly stripes seemed to cause more surface 
> disruption...pulling the tape up right after laying down a coat left tape 
> lines/ridges that are a bit annoying.=C2=A0 I will be testing without taping 
> and see how annoying the walnut shells are on the holly..
> UPDATE: Using an old jam jar with one small nail hole init for the walnut 
> shells I was able to control the sprinkle onto the wet polyurethane evenly. 
> The proof will be when I replace the cabin sole and lay down the rugs to see 
> how easily they move around.
> IF...any lister would like a supply of crushed walnut shells just let me know 
> where to send it...I have about 2/3rds of an 18 oz jam jar that I will never 
> use.  I would suspect that 2-3 tablespoons more than cover a typical cabin 
> sole...
> 
> Spencer Johnson
> 84 LF 38 "Alegria" #165
> Racine, WI / Waukegan, IL
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Stus-List Cabin Sole Refinishing

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

Hi Russ! Good idea...I was just following the included instructions by mixing 
with the polyurethane first...this kinda worked but didn't disperse the walnut 
shells evenly.I created a test board, put a few coats of Minwax Satin 
Polyurethane on it, then with a wet coat and a re-purposed jam jar with a nail 
hole in the top (not too big) I sprinkled as evenly as possible, let it dry 
(spreading a wet coat over the not-so-wet coat kinda messed up the bottom 
coat). Letting it dry completely and adding another coat seemed to work as I 
liked.Taping the Holly stripes seemed to cause more surface 
disruption...pulling the tape up right after laying down a coat left tape 
lines/ridges that are a bit annoying.=C2=A0 I will be testing without taping 
and see how annoying the walnut shells are on the holly..UPDATE: Using an old 
jam jar with one small nail hole init for the walnut shells I was able to 
control the sprinkle onto the wet polyurethane evenly. The proof will be when I 
replace the cabin sole and lay down the rugs to see how easily they move 
around.IF...any lister would like a supply of crushed walnut shells just let me 
know where to send it...I have about 2/3rds of an 18 oz jam jar that I will 
never use.  I would suspect that 2-3 tablespoons more than cover a typical 
cabin sole...
Spencer Johnson84 LF 38 "Alegria" #165Racine, WI / Waukegan, IL___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole resurfacing

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Spencer,

For walnut shells application try wetting out a separate test piece 
and sprinkle the walnut shells onto it with something like a salt 
shaker. Then a topcoat when just past tacky.


Cheers, Russ


At 11:51 AM 11/17/2019, you wrote:


  ..


Getting the right ratio of walnut to Polyuruthane took some 
testingI found that 1.5 teaspoons walnut to 4 oz. Polyuruthane 
seemed to work.  The final problem is how to keep the crushed 
walnuts suspended long enough to get enough on the brush.   We'll see...


Spencer Johnson
84 LF38 "Alegria"
Racine/Waukegan
___



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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole resurfacing

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Spencer; I'd like to see photos of your project...both during the painting and 
the finished product; thanks
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, mile 596;
Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: ssjohnson via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: ssjohnson 
Sent: Sun, Nov 17, 2019 2:52 pm
Subject: Stus-List Cabin sole resurfacing

I'm a little late for this thread...but I have two sections of my cabin sole in 
the kitchen with wet polyurethane .  My cabin sole wasn't too bad for 35 years 
of service but had a few dings and scratches... an is a good winter project.  
I'm using Minwax fast drying Polyuruthane matte finish.  4 hour drying time 
means 3 coats per day.  I gave it a fair sanding with 120 followed by 220 being 
careful not to get to bare wood.  I did this a few years agoit looks great, 
but , was pretty slipperyrugs would not stay in place and when healing 
under sail stuff slid all over.This time I have added crushed walnut shells to 
the last coat of Polyuruthane as a non skid.   I did find one interesting post 
that said to use 3/4" masking tape over the holly so as not to have brown 
specks showing up.  Getting the right ratio of walnut to Polyuruthane took some 
testingI found that 1.5 teaspoons walnut to 4 oz. Polyuruthane seemed to 
work.  The final problem is how to keep the crushed walnuts suspended long 
enough to get enough on the brush.   We'll see...
Spencer Johnson 84 LF38 
"Alegria"Racine/Waukegan___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Stus-List Cabin sole resurfacing

[ssjohnson via CnC-List]

I'm a little late for this thread...but I have two sections of my cabin sole in 
the kitchen with wet polyurethane .  My cabin sole wasn't too bad for 35 years 
of service but had a few dings and scratches... an is a good winter project.  
I'm using Minwax fast drying Polyuruthane matte finish.  4 hour drying time 
means 3 coats per day.  I gave it a fair sanding with 120 followed by 220 being 
careful not to get to bare wood.  I did this a few years agoit looks great, 
but , was pretty slipperyrugs would not stay in place and when healing 
under sail stuff slid all over.This time I have added crushed walnut shells to 
the last coat of Polyuruthane as a non skid.   I did find one interesting post 
that said to use 3/4" masking tape over the holly so as not to have brown 
specks showing up.  Getting the right ratio of walnut to Polyuruthane took some 
testingI found that 1.5 teaspoons walnut to 4 oz. Polyuruthane seemed to 
work.  The final problem is how to keep the crushed walnuts suspended long 
enough to get enough on the brush.   We'll see...Spencer Johnson 84 LF38 
"Alegria"Racine/Waukegan___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

Bill,

I used Minwax polyurethane on the sole that I have since had to replace.  The 
urethane did not hold up.

Neil
1982 C 32, FoxFire
Rock Hall, MD

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2019 12:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

I asked our local Shipwright here what he used, and he said Minwax 
Polyurethane. Like you would use on your hardwood flooring or on a gym floor. 
For some reason we think you have to use marine varnish, and well, down below, 
not so much.
I redid my sole around 5 years ago or so, and I believe it still looks great. I 
removed it to the shop over the winter, and used a heat gun to scrape the 
varnish off, sanded, glued the teak and holy back together where necessary, ( 
it is solid teak with holly strips) and put on around 4 or five coats.  That 
urethane wears like iron.

Bill Coleman
Erie PA


Regards,
Dave

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 9, 2019, at 08:53, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I'm looking at replacing ours as well, though probably sometime next year.  
What is the preferred method of sealing and varnishing the wood?  What varnish 
did you use?  Did you seal the underside with epoxy?  If so, what kind?

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+
"Astralis"


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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I asked our local Shipwright here what he used, and he said Minwax 
Polyurethane. Like you would use on your hardwood flooring or on a gym floor. 
For some reason we think you have to use marine varnish, and well, down below, 
not so much.

I redid my sole around 5 years ago or so, and I believe it still looks great. I 
removed it to the shop over the winter, and used a heat gun to scrape the 
varnish off, sanded, glued the teak and holy back together where necessary, ( 
it is solid teak with holly strips) and put on around 4 or five coats.  That 
urethane wears like iron.

 

Bill Coleman

Erie PA

 

 

Regards,

Dave
 

Sent from my iPad


On Nov 9, 2019, at 08:53, bwhitmore via CnC-List  wrote:

I'm looking at replacing ours as well, though probably sometime next year.  
What is the preferred method of sealing and varnishing the wood?  What varnish 
did you use?  Did you seal the underside with epoxy?  If so, what kind?

 

Bruce Whitmore 

1994 C 37/40+

"Astralis"

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Iinstalled PlasDek on a deck hatch on a trawler years ago.  See:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsV2NVZ1hmaGJ6cEU/view?usp=drivesdk

It was pretty straightforward.  For interiors look at PlasTeak.
www.plasteak.com

There are several instructional videos online.

If I ever put a teak/holly sole on Touche' it will bePlasTeak or
equivalent.

Dennis C.
Touche' 83 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Nov 9, 2019, 7:22 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The cabin sole on my boat is not in great shape.  There are areas where
> the holly stripes and are gone or pulling away.   I am considering what to
> do and have a vague recollection of someone using a glue-on faux
> teak/holley covering over the wood (Nautikflor?) but I can’t find that
> discussion anywhere in the archives.  Has anyone done that?  Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I think a lot of owners go a bit overboard with seeking perfection in the
cabin sole. My 45 year old 35mkii has original teak snd holly sole. It’s
attached with adhesive to whatever is  underneath. I stripped it bare about
12 years ago and lightly sanded then cleaned and applied only 1 coat of
Sikkens Cetol. Still in nice condition and has a wonderful patina. Before
ripping out and replacing at big expense and effort consider rejuvenation.
Worked for me and keep it dry whatever you do

On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 3:19 PM Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've been varnishing adjacent to my job for decades. I’m a practical
> traditionalist when it comes to vanishing. When I stripped and refinished
> the sole on Peregrine, my 40, I built up using a few coats of Pettit clear
> sealer applied over a day. This I let cure for a few days, then after a
> light sanding with 150, I started with Epiphanes Wood finish Gloss, which
> allows you to redcoat without sanding for up to three coats. After the
> first three coats cured for a few days I sanded flat to fill up the grain.
> Another round or two of three coats of Wood Finish Gloss and sanding with
> 180 to rough up the surface I applied a “final coat” (with varnish, there's
> no such thing as a final coat) of regular Epiphanes Gloss varnish. They had
> lasted looking good for six years when I sold the boat to David. I gave
> Masquerade's sole a similar treatment and it still looks good after two
> seasons in New England and one in the Caribbean and a few races.
> Gloss varnish is the only way to go for the sole as satin varnish is much
> softer and won’t wear nearly as well. Yes, gloss is slipperier when wet,
> but only marginally. A traditional yacht finish holds the sole finished
> with gloss if its teak and holly.
> Andy
> Currently stuck in Bermuda wait for a nasty low to blow by.
>
> Andrew Burton
> 139 Tuckerman Ave
> Middletown, RI
> USA02842
>
> www.burtonsailing.com
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> > On Nov 9, 2019, at 10:14, Nathan Post via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > I managed to salvage the teak and holly floor on my boat with a bunch of
> sanding and then revarnishing. I glued the plywood back together where it
> was delaminating near the edge and ended up sanding through the the holly
> stops near a few edges where it was in rough shape but it still looks
> pretty good and has been very functional.  Depending on how bad it is you
> might want to try just salvaging what is there.
> >
> > - -
> > Nathan Post
> > S/V Wisper
> > 1981 C 34
> > Lynn, MA
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I've been varnishing adjacent to my job for decades. I’m a practical 
traditionalist when it comes to vanishing. When I stripped and refinished the 
sole on Peregrine, my 40, I built up using a few coats of Pettit clear sealer 
applied over a day. This I let cure for a few days, then after a light sanding 
with 150, I started with Epiphanes Wood finish Gloss, which allows you to 
redcoat without sanding for up to three coats. After the first three coats 
cured for a few days I sanded flat to fill up the grain. Another round or two 
of three coats of Wood Finish Gloss and sanding with 180 to rough up the 
surface I applied a “final coat” (with varnish, there's no such thing as a 
final coat) of regular Epiphanes Gloss varnish. They had lasted looking good 
for six years when I sold the boat to David. I gave Masquerade's sole a similar 
treatment and it still looks good after two seasons in New England and one in 
the Caribbean and a few races.
Gloss varnish is the only way to go for the sole as satin varnish is much 
softer and won’t wear nearly as well. Yes, gloss is slipperier when wet, but 
only marginally. A traditional yacht finish holds the sole finished with gloss 
if its teak and holly.
Andy
Currently stuck in Bermuda wait for a nasty low to blow by.

Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middletown, RI 
USA02842

www.burtonsailing.com
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Nov 9, 2019, at 10:14, Nathan Post via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I managed to salvage the teak and holly floor on my boat with a bunch of 
> sanding and then revarnishing. I glued the plywood back together where it was 
> delaminating near the edge and ended up sanding through the the holly stops 
> near a few edges where it was in rough shape but it still looks pretty good 
> and has been very functional.  Depending on how bad it is you might want to 
> try just salvaging what is there.
> 
> - -
> Nathan Post
> S/V Wisper
> 1981 C 34
> Lynn, MA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Thanks for letting us know Mike.

See you soon dear.


At 08:30 AM 11/9/2019, you wrote:

Ok.  Leaving  home now.  Will be there in 15 mins

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Matthew 
L. Wolford via CnC-List

Sent: November 9, 2019 12:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing



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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Ok.  Leaving  home now.  Will be there in 15 mins

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List
Sent: November 9, 2019 12:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

I'm in the middle of this project.  I was planning on doing the new 
plywood/fake teak and holly thing, but last year something happened that 
changed my mind.  While doing a different project, I spilled some acetone on a 
floorboard that caused the varnish to peel.  I decided to fix that one board 
for the season.  I took it home, stripped the old varnish, scrubbed it with 
some oxylic (sp.) acid/water solution, let it dry, lightly sanded, sealed the 
bottom and ends with West System, and covered the surface with two coats of 
Minwax satin varnish.  It's not perfect, but it looks so good that I have 
abandoned my original plan and am going to restore all the other boards in the 
same manner.

-Original Message-
From: Nathan Post via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2019 9:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nathan Post
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

I managed to salvage the teak and holly floor on my boat with a bunch of 
sanding and then revarnishing. I glued the plywood back together where it was 
delaminating near the edge and ended up sanding through the the holly stops 
near a few edges where it was in rough shape but it still looks pretty good and 
has been very functional.  Depending on how bad it is you might want to try 
just salvaging what is there.

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn, MA
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I'm in the middle of this project.  I was planning on doing the new 
plywood/fake teak and holly thing, but last year something happened that 
changed my mind.  While doing a different project, I spilled some acetone on 
a floorboard that caused the varnish to peel.  I decided to fix that one 
board for the season.  I took it home, stripped the old varnish, scrubbed it 
with some oxylic (sp.) acid/water solution, let it dry, lightly sanded, 
sealed the bottom and ends with West System, and covered the surface with 
two coats of Minwax satin varnish.  It's not perfect, but it looks so good 
that I have abandoned my original plan and am going to restore all the other 
boards in the same manner.


-Original Message- 
From: Nathan Post via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2019 9:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nathan Post
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

I managed to salvage the teak and holly floor on my boat with a bunch of 
sanding and then revarnishing. I glued the plywood back together where it 
was delaminating near the edge and ended up sanding through the the holly 
stops near a few edges where it was in rough shape but it still looks pretty 
good and has been very functional.  Depending on how bad it is you might 
want to try just salvaging what is there.


- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn, MA
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

On Persistence we went with new teak and holly.  Thankfully one sheet did 
entire job because was well over 600 CAD at the time.  West epoxy on bottom and 
sides using special hardener (the one for wood).  Top three coats west epoxy 
followed by four costs epiphanes satin varnish.  Extremely important to use the 
proper hardener  so that  you do not see flow arks of the epoxy

Mike
Persistence
Halifax


From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dave Godwin via 
CnC-List
Sent: November 9, 2019 10:15 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Godwin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

Bruce,

I used Awlgrip’s Awlwood MA Gloss and Primer on the teak and holly surface. 
Finished off with a regular satin finish varnish. I used West System epoxy to 
seal the rest of the surfaces.

http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2015-03-16T14:37:00-07:00=7=13=false

Regards,
Dave

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 9, 2019, at 08:53, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I'm looking at replacing ours as well, though probably sometime next year.  
What is the preferred method of sealing and varnishing the wood?  What varnish 
did you use?  Did you seal the underside with epoxy?  If so, what kind?

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+
"Astralis"



Sent from Samsung tablet.
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Bruce,

I used Awlgrip’s Awlwood MA Gloss and Primer on the teak and holly surface. 
Finished off with a regular satin finish varnish. I used West System epoxy to 
seal the rest of the surfaces.

http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2015-03-16T14:37:00-07:00=7=13=false

Regards,
Dave
 
Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 9, 2019, at 08:53, bwhitmore via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I'm looking at replacing ours as well, though probably sometime next year.  
> What is the preferred method of sealing and varnishing the wood?  What 
> varnish did you use?  Did you seal the underside with epoxy?  If so, what 
> kind?
> 
> Bruce Whitmore 
> 1994 C 37/40+
> "Astralis"
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I managed to salvage the teak and holly floor on my boat with a bunch of 
sanding and then revarnishing. I glued the plywood back together where it was 
delaminating near the edge and ended up sanding through the the holly stops 
near a few edges where it was in rough shape but it still looks pretty good and 
has been very functional.  Depending on how bad it is you might want to try 
just salvaging what is there.

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn, MA
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I’ve done my cabin sole twice since buying the boat in 1997. I thought about 
using a non-wood covering product on this last iteration. When I started to 
price out the cost of okume marine plywood plus the cost of the covering there 
were now real savings to be had compared to buying two sheets of 3/4 teak and 
holly plywood.

I suppose an argument can be made about not having to spend a great deal of 
time finishing the flooring when using a new applied material.

If you are going to use the existing flooring probably a good idea to make sure 
that it is not delaminating. Mine was.

Regards,
Dave
1982 C 37 - Ronin 

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 9, 2019, at 08:37, Neil Andersen via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> But expensive!?!   I did mine as well and the 4x8 sheet was over $700.  Looks 
> great now though.
> 
> Neil
> 1982 C 32, FoxFire
> Rock Hall, MD
> 
> Neil Andersen
> 20691 Jamieson Rd
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>  
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Stephen Thorne 
> via CnC-List 
> Sent: Saturday, November 9, 2019 8:34 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Stephen Thorne
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing
>  
> I had the same project on my 34+ and after looking at various options ended 
> up ordering a new sheet of teak & holly plywood.  Was a little more effort 
> but I wanted to stay with the wood sole.  Love the end results.
> 
> Steve Thorne
> Deja Vu
> 1990 34+
> 
>> On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 8:22 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> The cabin sole on my boat is not in great shape.  There are areas where the 
>> holly stripes and are gone or pulling away.   I am considering what to do 
>> and have a vague recollection of someone using a glue-on faux teak/holley 
>> covering over the wood (Nautikflor?) but I can’t find that discussion 
>> anywhere in the archives.  Has anyone done that?  Thanks- Dave
>> 
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I'm looking at replacing ours as well, though probably sometime next year.  
What is the preferred method of sealing and varnishing the wood?  What varnish 
did you use?  Did you seal the underside with epoxy?  If so, what kind?Bruce 
Whitmore 1994 C 37/40+"Astralis"Sent from Samsung tablet.
null___

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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

But expensive!?!   I did mine as well and the 4x8 sheet was over $700.  Looks 
great now though.

Neil
1982 C 32, FoxFire
Rock Hall, MD

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Stephen Thorne via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, November 9, 2019 8:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stephen Thorne
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

I had the same project on my 34+ and after looking at various options ended up 
ordering a new sheet of teak & holly plywood.  Was a little more effort but I 
wanted to stay with the wood sole.  Love the end results.

Steve Thorne
Deja Vu
1990 34+

On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 8:22 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
The cabin sole on my boat is not in great shape.  There are areas where the 
holly stripes and are gone or pulling away.   I am considering what to do and 
have a vague recollection of someone using a glue-on faux teak/holley covering 
over the wood (Nautikflor?) but I can’t find that discussion anywhere in the 
archives.  Has anyone done that?  Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:16e505ba7161022a4281]

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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

[Stephen Thorne via CnC-List]

I had the same project on my 34+ and after looking at various options ended
up ordering a new sheet of teak & holly plywood.  Was a little more effort
but I wanted to stay with the wood sole.  Love the end results.

Steve Thorne
Deja Vu
1990 34+

On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 8:22 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The cabin sole on my boat is not in great shape.  There are areas where
> the holly stripes and are gone or pulling away.   I am considering what to
> do and have a vague recollection of someone using a glue-on faux
> teak/holley covering over the wood (Nautikflor?) but I can’t find that
> discussion anywhere in the archives.  Has anyone done that?  Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

The cabin sole on my boat is not in great shape.  There are areas where the 
holly stripes and are gone or pulling away.   I am considering what to do and 
have a vague recollection of someone using a glue-on faux teak/holley covering 
over the wood (Nautikflor?) but I can’t find that discussion anywhere in the 
archives.  Has anyone done that?  Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole: Dragon's Breath Regatta

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 You guys be sure to send photos...we vicarious racers love to see them!  
Especially if there's a C or a lister on boardthanks
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 19085 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John Conklin 
Sent: Tue, Jul 23, 2019 7:35 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin sole

Great ! I’ll be racing my new Etchells  in the spin div. so no C :( but will 
say hello for sure ! 
Thanks 
John ConklinS/V Halcyonwww.flirtingwithfire.net


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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Great ! I’ll be racing my new Etchells  in the spin div. so no C :( but will 
say hello for sure !
Thanks
John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
www.flirtingwithfire.net


On Jul 22, 2019, at 8:27 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I plan to be there—non-spin.
See and meet you there. We have a slip at the Oriental Marina.

Charlie

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com

On Monday, July 22, 2019, John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hope I can see it at dragons breath regatta in 2 weeks ?

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon

On Jul 22, 2019, at 4:51 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Probably although their video suggests trimming with a supplied cutting blade 
and then hand sanding the edges. Apparently the vinyl is pretty easy to trim.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com

On Monday, July 22, 2019, John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Can you apply then nip clean and precise with a router bit ?

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Jul 22, 2019, at 3:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

That’s the plan— to use Plasteak. I invested in the roller and am about to 
order the vinyl.

Originally thought I’d do it in place using their clear plastic sheet and cut 
the vinyl to fit, then glue it down in the boat.

However I only have 4 big pieces and removing them is no big deal. Thus my 
latest plan is to do it off the boat which would be much easier on my back and 
my knees!

I can also (I think) avoid the cost/shipping of the clear plastic sheet this 
way.

My thought is to place pieces together as on the boat and then cover with the 
Plasteak and cut and glue it.

Not quite sure if this will work since I won’t be able to see ‘through’ the 
vinyl for matching purposes as I might with the clear plastic. If I can get 
both vinyl and plastic shipped with only 1 $50 Fedex large piece shipping 
charge, I may get the plastic anyway @ $75.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
36 XL/kcb #077



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Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com

On Monday, July 22, 2019, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Are you using PlasTeak or equivalent?  Will look great when you finish.

https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-products/marine-grade-flooring

I did a hatch cover on a trawler with PlasDek, the exterior version.  The job 
was straightforward.  Get a laminate roller from a big box store.  I used one 
of these:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Extension-Handle-Roller/3030693

PlasTeak folks were easy to work with.  I had the piece custom made by them 
with borders.

 Here's a pic of the finished job:  
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsV2NVZ1hmaGJ6cEU

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 11:57 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Listers;

I am considering re-doing my cabin sole (for the 2nd time!) using a glue-on 
vinyl laminate directly over the old sole. Only the thin teak and holly veneer 
of the sole is bad--otherwise the screwed-in boards (4) that make up the sole 
are fine.

After about 10+ years of racing crew activity (mostly throwing cans, bottles 
down below plus occasionally dropping of other gear on the sole (winch handles, 
etc. ) along with a previous short-lived attempt of mine to sand the current 
veneer, it's time to do this job right and for less than the 2 boat bucks it 
cost when I had the yard do it previously (they replaced entire sole).

I will remove the pieces and glue the vinyl to the old veneer, which can be 
trimmed with a knife, to get reasonable matches to the teak and holly pattern.

Have any listers gone this route with sprucing up their cabin sole? If so, are 
there any pitfalls to avoid before I begin this latest DIY project?

Thanks in advance,

Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom
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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I plan to be there—non-spin.See and meet you there. We have a slip at the 
Oriental Marina.
Charlie

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
 On Monday, July 22, 2019, John Conklin via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hope I can see it at dragons breath regatta in 2 weeks ? 

John Conklin S/V Halcyon 
On Jul 22, 2019, at 4:51 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Probably although their video suggests trimming with a supplied cutting blade 
and then hand sanding the edges. Apparently the vinyl is pretty easy to trim.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
On Monday, July 22, 2019, John Conklin via CnC-List  
wrote:

Can you apply then nip clean and precise with a router bit ?

John Conklin S/V HalcyonS/V Heartbeatwww.flirtingwithfire.com

On Jul 22, 2019, at 3:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:


That’s the plan— to use Plasteak. I invested in the roller and am about to 
order the vinyl. 
Originally thought I’d do it in place using their clear plastic sheet and cut 
the vinyl to fit, then glue it down in the boat.
However I only have 4 big pieces and removing them is no big deal. Thus my 
latest plan is to do it off the boat which would be much easier on my back and 
my knees!
I can also (I think) avoid the cost/shipping of the clear plastic sheet this 
way. 
My thought is to place pieces together as on the boat and then cover with the 
Plasteak and cut and glue it.
Not quite sure if this will work since I won’t be able to see ‘through’ the 
vinyl for matching purposes as I might with the clear plastic. If I can get 
both vinyl and plastic shipped with only 1 $50 Fedex large piece shipping 
charge, I may get the plastic anyway @ $75.
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom36 XL/kcb #077
 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
On Monday, July 22, 2019, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

Are you using PlasTeak or equivalent?  Will look great when you finish.  
https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-products/marine-grade-flooring
  

I did a hatch cover on a trawler with PlasDek, the exterior version.  The job 
was straightforward.  Get a laminate roller from a big box store.  I used one 
of these:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Extension-Handle-Roller/3030693 
PlasTeak folks were easy to work with.  I had the piece custom made by them 
with borders.
 Here's a pic of the finished job:  
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsV2NVZ1hmaGJ6cEU

Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 11:57 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Listers;
I am considering re-doing my cabin sole (for the 2nd time!) using a glue-on 
vinyl laminate directly over the old sole. Only the thin teak and holly veneer 
of the sole is bad--otherwise the screwed-in boards (4) that make up the sole 
are fine. 
After about 10+ years of racing crew activity (mostly throwing cans, bottles 
down below plus occasionally dropping of other gear on the sole (winch handles, 
etc. ) along with a previous short-lived attempt of mine to sand the current 
veneer, it's time to do this job right and for less than the 2 boat bucks it 
cost when I had the yard do it previously (they replaced entire sole).
I will remove the pieces and glue the vinyl to the old veneer, which can be 
trimmed with a knife, to get reasonable matches to the teak and holly pattern.
Have any listers gone this route with sprucing up their cabin sole? If so, are 
there any pitfalls to avoid before I begin this latest DIY project?
Thanks in advance,
Charlie Nelson1995 C 36 XL/kcbWater 
Phantom___

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Thanks everyone for 

Re: Stus-List Cabin sole

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

That's what I did to "fine tune" the corners on the trawler's PlasDek
hatch.  Trimmed with a razor knife then finished it with a sanding block.
Easily done.

I cut the holes for the lifting handles with a razor knife.  Here's the
link again:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsV2NVZ1hmaGJ6cEU

Note the two inset flush lifting handles.

PlasTeak and PlasDek panels are relatively easy to work with.

The hard part is getting fancy, for instance, if you want to put a border
around a bilge plate.  In the project I did, I sent PlasTeak the
measurements of the hatch and they did the border.  I just had to adjust
the radius of the corners.   If you want to make your own borders there are
videos on that.  Here's one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKHvsuX3gaQ

Shows a few things we haven't mentioned like weighting the corners (I used
buckets filled with water) and using a notched trowel to spread the
adhesive.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 3:52 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Probably although their video suggests trimming with a supplied cutting
> blade and then hand sanding the edges. Apparently the vinyl is pretty easy
> to trim.
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
>
> On Monday, July 22, 2019, John Conklin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>
>
> Can you apply then nip clean and precise with a router bit ?
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Hope I can see it at dragons breath regatta in 2 weeks ?

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon

On Jul 22, 2019, at 4:51 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Probably although their video suggests trimming with a supplied cutting blade 
and then hand sanding the edges. Apparently the vinyl is pretty easy to trim.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com

On Monday, July 22, 2019, John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Can you apply then nip clean and precise with a router bit ?

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Jul 22, 2019, at 3:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

That’s the plan— to use Plasteak. I invested in the roller and am about to 
order the vinyl.

Originally thought I’d do it in place using their clear plastic sheet and cut 
the vinyl to fit, then glue it down in the boat.

However I only have 4 big pieces and removing them is no big deal. Thus my 
latest plan is to do it off the boat which would be much easier on my back and 
my knees!

I can also (I think) avoid the cost/shipping of the clear plastic sheet this 
way.

My thought is to place pieces together as on the boat and then cover with the 
Plasteak and cut and glue it.

Not quite sure if this will work since I won’t be able to see ‘through’ the 
vinyl for matching purposes as I might with the clear plastic. If I can get 
both vinyl and plastic shipped with only 1 $50 Fedex large piece shipping 
charge, I may get the plastic anyway @ $75.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
36 XL/kcb #077



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com

On Monday, July 22, 2019, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Are you using PlasTeak or equivalent?  Will look great when you finish.

https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-products/marine-grade-flooring

I did a hatch cover on a trawler with PlasDek, the exterior version.  The job 
was straightforward.  Get a laminate roller from a big box store.  I used one 
of these:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Extension-Handle-Roller/3030693

PlasTeak folks were easy to work with.  I had the piece custom made by them 
with borders.

 Here's a pic of the finished job:  
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsV2NVZ1hmaGJ6cEU

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 11:57 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Listers;

I am considering re-doing my cabin sole (for the 2nd time!) using a glue-on 
vinyl laminate directly over the old sole. Only the thin teak and holly veneer 
of the sole is bad--otherwise the screwed-in boards (4) that make up the sole 
are fine.

After about 10+ years of racing crew activity (mostly throwing cans, bottles 
down below plus occasionally dropping of other gear on the sole (winch handles, 
etc. ) along with a previous short-lived attempt of mine to sand the current 
veneer, it's time to do this job right and for less than the 2 boat bucks it 
cost when I had the yard do it previously (they replaced entire sole).

I will remove the pieces and glue the vinyl to the old veneer, which can be 
trimmed with a knife, to get reasonable matches to the teak and holly pattern.

Have any listers gone this route with sprucing up their cabin sole? If so, are 
there any pitfalls to avoid before I begin this latest DIY project?

Thanks in advance,

Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom
___

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___

Re: Stus-List Cabin sole

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Probably although their video suggests trimming with a supplied cutting blade 
and then hand sanding the edges. Apparently the vinyl is pretty easy to trim.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
 On Monday, July 22, 2019, John Conklin via CnC-List  
wrote:

Can you apply then nip clean and precise with a router bit ?

John Conklin S/V HalcyonS/V Heartbeatwww.flirtingwithfire.com

On Jul 22, 2019, at 3:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:


That’s the plan— to use Plasteak. I invested in the roller and am about to 
order the vinyl. 
Originally thought I’d do it in place using their clear plastic sheet and cut 
the vinyl to fit, then glue it down in the boat.
However I only have 4 big pieces and removing them is no big deal. Thus my 
latest plan is to do it off the boat which would be much easier on my back and 
my knees!
I can also (I think) avoid the cost/shipping of the clear plastic sheet this 
way. 
My thought is to place pieces together as on the boat and then cover with the 
Plasteak and cut and glue it.
Not quite sure if this will work since I won’t be able to see ‘through’ the 
vinyl for matching purposes as I might with the clear plastic. If I can get 
both vinyl and plastic shipped with only 1 $50 Fedex large piece shipping 
charge, I may get the plastic anyway @ $75.
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom36 XL/kcb #077
 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
On Monday, July 22, 2019, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

Are you using PlasTeak or equivalent?  Will look great when you finish.  
https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-products/marine-grade-flooring
  

I did a hatch cover on a trawler with PlasDek, the exterior version.  The job 
was straightforward.  Get a laminate roller from a big box store.  I used one 
of these:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Extension-Handle-Roller/3030693 
PlasTeak folks were easy to work with.  I had the piece custom made by them 
with borders.
 Here's a pic of the finished job:  
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsV2NVZ1hmaGJ6cEU

Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 11:57 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Listers;
I am considering re-doing my cabin sole (for the 2nd time!) using a glue-on 
vinyl laminate directly over the old sole. Only the thin teak and holly veneer 
of the sole is bad--otherwise the screwed-in boards (4) that make up the sole 
are fine. 
After about 10+ years of racing crew activity (mostly throwing cans, bottles 
down below plus occasionally dropping of other gear on the sole (winch handles, 
etc. ) along with a previous short-lived attempt of mine to sand the current 
veneer, it's time to do this job right and for less than the 2 boat bucks it 
cost when I had the yard do it previously (they replaced entire sole).
I will remove the pieces and glue the vinyl to the old veneer, which can be 
trimmed with a knife, to get reasonable matches to the teak and holly pattern.
Have any listers gone this route with sprucing up their cabin sole? If so, are 
there any pitfalls to avoid before I begin this latest DIY project?
Thanks in advance,
Charlie Nelson1995 C 36 XL/kcbWater 
Phantom___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

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___

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___

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___

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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Can you apply then nip clean and precise with a router bit ?

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Jul 22, 2019, at 3:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

That’s the plan— to use Plasteak. I invested in the roller and am about to 
order the vinyl.

Originally thought I’d do it in place using their clear plastic sheet and cut 
the vinyl to fit, then glue it down in the boat.

However I only have 4 big pieces and removing them is no big deal. Thus my 
latest plan is to do it off the boat which would be much easier on my back and 
my knees!

I can also (I think) avoid the cost/shipping of the clear plastic sheet this 
way.

My thought is to place pieces together as on the boat and then cover with the 
Plasteak and cut and glue it.

Not quite sure if this will work since I won’t be able to see ‘through’ the 
vinyl for matching purposes as I might with the clear plastic. If I can get 
both vinyl and plastic shipped with only 1 $50 Fedex large piece shipping 
charge, I may get the plastic anyway @ $75.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
36 XL/kcb #077



Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com

On Monday, July 22, 2019, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Are you using PlasTeak or equivalent?  Will look great when you finish.

https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-products/marine-grade-flooring

I did a hatch cover on a trawler with PlasDek, the exterior version.  The job 
was straightforward.  Get a laminate roller from a big box store.  I used one 
of these:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Extension-Handle-Roller/3030693

PlasTeak folks were easy to work with.  I had the piece custom made by them 
with borders.

 Here's a pic of the finished job:  
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsV2NVZ1hmaGJ6cEU

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 11:57 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Listers;

I am considering re-doing my cabin sole (for the 2nd time!) using a glue-on 
vinyl laminate directly over the old sole. Only the thin teak and holly veneer 
of the sole is bad--otherwise the screwed-in boards (4) that make up the sole 
are fine.

After about 10+ years of racing crew activity (mostly throwing cans, bottles 
down below plus occasionally dropping of other gear on the sole (winch handles, 
etc. ) along with a previous short-lived attempt of mine to sand the current 
veneer, it's time to do this job right and for less than the 2 boat bucks it 
cost when I had the yard do it previously (they replaced entire sole).

I will remove the pieces and glue the vinyl to the old veneer, which can be 
trimmed with a knife, to get reasonable matches to the teak and holly pattern.

Have any listers gone this route with sprucing up their cabin sole? If so, are 
there any pitfalls to avoid before I begin this latest DIY project?

Thanks in advance,

Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Cabin sole

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

That’s the plan— to use Plasteak. I invested in the roller and am about to 
order the vinyl. 
Originally thought I’d do it in place using their clear plastic sheet and cut 
the vinyl to fit, then glue it down in the boat.
However I only have 4 big pieces and removing them is no big deal. Thus my 
latest plan is to do it off the boat which would be much easier on my back and 
my knees!
I can also (I think) avoid the cost/shipping of the clear plastic sheet this 
way. 
My thought is to place pieces together as on the boat and then cover with the 
Plasteak and cut and glue it.
Not quite sure if this will work since I won’t be able to see ‘through’ the 
vinyl for matching purposes as I might with the clear plastic. If I can get 
both vinyl and plastic shipped with only 1 $50 Fedex large piece shipping 
charge, I may get the plastic anyway @ $75.
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom36 XL/kcb #077
 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
 On Monday, July 22, 2019, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

Are you using PlasTeak or equivalent?  Will look great when you finish.  
https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-products/marine-grade-flooring
  

I did a hatch cover on a trawler with PlasDek, the exterior version.  The job 
was straightforward.  Get a laminate roller from a big box store.  I used one 
of these:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Extension-Handle-Roller/3030693 
PlasTeak folks were easy to work with.  I had the piece custom made by them 
with borders.
 Here's a pic of the finished job:  
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsV2NVZ1hmaGJ6cEU

Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 11:57 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Listers;
I am considering re-doing my cabin sole (for the 2nd time!) using a glue-on 
vinyl laminate directly over the old sole. Only the thin teak and holly veneer 
of the sole is bad--otherwise the screwed-in boards (4) that make up the sole 
are fine. 
After about 10+ years of racing crew activity (mostly throwing cans, bottles 
down below plus occasionally dropping of other gear on the sole (winch handles, 
etc. ) along with a previous short-lived attempt of mine to sand the current 
veneer, it's time to do this job right and for less than the 2 boat bucks it 
cost when I had the yard do it previously (they replaced entire sole).
I will remove the pieces and glue the vinyl to the old veneer, which can be 
trimmed with a knife, to get reasonable matches to the teak and holly pattern.
Have any listers gone this route with sprucing up their cabin sole? If so, are 
there any pitfalls to avoid before I begin this latest DIY project?
Thanks in advance,
Charlie Nelson1995 C 36 XL/kcbWater 
Phantom___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Cabin sole

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Charlie, you using a teak any holy look ,laminate?

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Jul 22, 2019, at 12:57 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Listers;

I am considering re-doing my cabin sole (for the 2nd time!) using a glue-on 
vinyl laminate directly over the old sole. Only the thin teak and holly veneer 
of the sole is bad--otherwise the screwed-in boards (4) that make up the sole 
are fine.

After about 10+ years of racing crew activity (mostly throwing cans, bottles 
down below plus occasionally dropping of other gear on the sole (winch handles, 
etc. ) along with a previous short-lived attempt of mine to sand the current 
veneer, it's time to do this job right and for less than the 2 boat bucks it 
cost when I had the yard do it previously (they replaced entire sole).

I will remove the pieces and glue the vinyl to the old veneer, which can be 
trimmed with a knife, to get reasonable matches to the teak and holly pattern.

Have any listers gone this route with sprucing up their cabin sole? If so, are 
there any pitfalls to avoid before I begin this latest DIY project?

Thanks in advance,

Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Cabin sole

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Are you using PlasTeak or equivalent?  Will look great when you finish.

https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-products/marine-grade-flooring


I did a hatch cover on a trawler with PlasDek, the exterior version.  The
job was straightforward.  Get a laminate roller from a big box store.  I
used one of these:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Extension-Handle-Roller/3030693

PlasTeak folks were easy to work with.  I had the piece custom made by them
with borders.

 Here's a pic of the finished job:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsV2NVZ1hmaGJ6cEU

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 11:57 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers;
>
> I am considering re-doing my cabin sole (for the 2nd time!) using a
> glue-on vinyl laminate directly over the old sole. Only the thin teak and
> holly veneer of the sole is bad--otherwise the screwed-in boards (4) that
> make up the sole are fine.
>
> After about 10+ years of racing crew activity (mostly throwing cans,
> bottles down below plus occasionally dropping of other gear on the sole
> (winch handles, etc. ) along with a previous short-lived attempt of mine to
> sand the current veneer, it's time to do this job right and for less than
> the 2 boat bucks it cost when I had the yard do it previously (they
> replaced entire sole).
>
> I will remove the pieces and glue the vinyl to the old veneer, which can
> be trimmed with a knife, to get reasonable matches to the teak and holly
> pattern.
>
> Have any listers gone this route with sprucing up their cabin sole? If so,
> are there any pitfalls to avoid before I begin this latest DIY project?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Cabin sole

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Listers;
I am considering re-doing my cabin sole (for the 2nd time!) using a glue-on 
vinyl laminate directly over the old sole. Only the thin teak and holly veneer 
of the sole is bad--otherwise the screwed-in boards (4) that make up the sole 
are fine. 
After about 10+ years of racing crew activity (mostly throwing cans, bottles 
down below plus occasionally dropping of other gear on the sole (winch handles, 
etc. ) along with a previous short-lived attempt of mine to sand the current 
veneer, it's time to do this job right and for less than the 2 boat bucks it 
cost when I had the yard do it previously (they replaced entire sole).
I will remove the pieces and glue the vinyl to the old veneer, which can be 
trimmed with a knife, to get reasonable matches to the teak and holly pattern.
Have any listers gone this route with sprucing up their cabin sole? If so, are 
there any pitfalls to avoid before I begin this latest DIY project?
Thanks in advance,
Charlie Nelson1995 C 36 XL/kcbWater Phantom___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Cabin Sole Restoration on my C

[Dan via CnC-List]

Hey guys, so I just posted a step by step video on restoring the cabin sole
in the aft cabin on Balachandra/Breakaweigh using west system thickened
epoxy. Hopefully someone finds this helpful. Beats throwing away that good
teak when you think it's lost...

https://youtu.be/q2TD5zprj7o

Dan Cormier
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS
___

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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole screws

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I took SS helicoils, screwed them onto Vaseline coated 10-24 SS screws, coated 
them and the enlarged holes with thickened epoxy, and set them in the holes. 
Then unscrew the screw when set, works great. 


Bill Coleman C 39



 Original message 
From: RAYMOND SHIBE via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: 7/28/16  5:13 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: RAYMOND SHIBE <rsh...@optonline.net> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin sole screws 

McMaster & Carr "T" nuts used by Wally Bryant.Ray Shibe


On Thu, Jul 28, 2016 at 03:42 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List wrote:

Does anyone have a fool proof or inventive fix for  deck plate screw holes that 
won't hold any longer?Only about half of my screws hold. The fiberglass holes I 
guess are just stripped from multiple times being screwed and unscrewed.
How about the boards under the seats? I know I can just drill out the holes and 
epoxy in some dowels, but has anyone done anything with latches for these? My 
group 31 battery boxes are so large as to cause me to lift up the whole board, 
not just the access board. Some sort of latch system would make this much 
easier.

-- 
Brian FryS/V La Neige1993 C 37/40XLHdG Maryland


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Cabin sole screws

[RAYMOND SHIBE via CnC-List]

McMaster & Carr "T" nuts used by Wally Bryant.
Ray Shibe

On Thu, Jul 28, 2016 at 03:42 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List wrote:

Does anyone have a fool proof or inventive fix for  deck plate screw 
holes that won't hold any longer?
Only about half of my screws hold. The fiberglass holes I guess are just 
stripped from multiple times being screwed and unscrewed.



How about the boards under the seats? I know I can just drill out the 
holes and epoxy in some dowels, but has anyone done anything with 
latches for these? My group 31 battery boxes are so large as to cause me 
to lift up the whole board, not just the access board. Some sort of 
latch system would make this much easier.


--

Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland





___



This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Cabin sole screws

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Fill them with epoxy and redrill.

On Thu, Jul 28, 2016 at 3:42 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone have a fool proof or inventive fix for  deck plate screw holes
> that won't hold any longer?
> Only about half of my screws hold. The fiberglass holes I guess are just
> stripped from multiple times being screwed and unscrewed.
>
> How about the boards under the seats? I know I can just drill out the
> holes and epoxy in some dowels, but has anyone done anything with latches
> for these? My group 31 battery boxes are so large as to cause me to lift up
> the whole board, not just the access board. Some sort of latch system would
> make this much easier.
>
> --
> Brian Fry
> S/V La Neige
> 1993 C 37/40XL
> HdG Maryland
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Cabin sole screws

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Does anyone have a fool proof or inventive fix for  deck plate screw holes
that won't hold any longer?
Only about half of my screws hold. The fiberglass holes I guess are just
stripped from multiple times being screwed and unscrewed.

How about the boards under the seats? I know I can just drill out the holes
and epoxy in some dowels, but has anyone done anything with latches for
these? My group 31 battery boxes are so large as to cause me to lift up the
whole board, not just the access board. Some sort of latch system would
make this much easier.

-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List cabin sole question/update

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Wipe down with denatured alcohol.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

On Wed, Mar 16, 2016 at 1:28 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi
>
>
>
> All sections of new cabin sole are cut out and fitted and now the coating
> is in progress.  I have two coats of West 105/207 on the finished side of
> the teak and holly as well as underneath and on edges.  Following epoxy I
> am planning a number of coats of Epifanes varnish on the finished side only.
>
>
>
> A couple of questions.
>
>
>
> 1.  After sanding epoxy and prior to initial coat of varnish what
> should be used to wipe down the surface?  Acetone?
>
> 2.  After sanding each coat of varnish what is used to wipe down the
> varnish prior to applying next coat?  Some sort of paint thinner or
> something else?  I have Interlux 202 Solvent wash, paint thinner, Interlux
> special thinner 216 and acetone on hand as well as a Canadian Tire and a
> Chandlery on my drive home
>
> 3.  How many coats of epoxy prior to first coat of varnish?  (finish
> surface)
>
> 4.  How many coats of varnish over the epoxy? (finish surface)
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 22 #16
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
___

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Re: Stus-List cabin sole question/update

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Maybe you already read this but:
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/varnish-over-epoxy/

I had to search it because I had not heard of varnishing over epoxy before.
Interesting.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Wed, Mar 16, 2016 at 1:28 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi
>
>
>
> All sections of new cabin sole are cut out and fitted and now the coating
> is in progress.  I have two coats of West 105/207 on the finished side of
> the teak and holly as well as underneath and on edges.  Following epoxy I
> am planning a number of coats of Epifanes varnish on the finished side only.
>
>
>
> A couple of questions.
>
>
>
> 1.  After sanding epoxy and prior to initial coat of varnish what
> should be used to wipe down the surface?  Acetone?
>
> 2.  After sanding each coat of varnish what is used to wipe down the
> varnish prior to applying next coat?  Some sort of paint thinner or
> something else?  I have Interlux 202 Solvent wash, paint thinner, Interlux
> special thinner 216 and acetone on hand as well as a Canadian Tire and a
> Chandlery on my drive home
>
> 3.  How many coats of epoxy prior to first coat of varnish?  (finish
> surface)
>
> 4.  How many coats of varnish over the epoxy? (finish surface)
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 22 #16
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List cabin sole question/update

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Steve,

Yes.  Damn, that's expensive!

On Wed, Mar 16, 2016 at 1:40 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joel
>
>
>
> Regular paint thinner?
>
>
>
> Steve
>
>
>
> Yes – I have read that.  A friend (formerly C and now C) used
> varnish over epoxy on the 25 with great results.  Seals the teak better and
> hopefully holds up better/longer than varnish.  Teak & Holly now $609 CAD
> for 4x8 sheet so wantto take good care of it
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel
> Aronson via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 16, 2016 2:36 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List cabin sole question/update
>
>
>
> Mike,
>
>
>
> I did 3 coats of epoxy.  Used thinner between coats.  I'd use thinner
> between coats of varnish too.
>
>
>
> I don't know what Ephiphanes recommends for the number of coats. I used
> Cetol natural x 3.   I imagine that's the minimum you would apply.
>
>
>
> Joel
>
> 35/3
>
> Annapolis
>
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 16, 2016 at 1:28 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi
>
>
>
> All sections of new cabin sole are cut out and fitted and now the coating
> is in progress.  I have two coats of West 105/207 on the finished side of
> the teak and holly as well as underneath and on edges.  Following epoxy I
> am planning a number of coats of Epifanes varnish on the finished side only.
>
>
>
> A couple of questions.
>
>
>
> 1.  After sanding epoxy and prior to initial coat of varnish what
> should be used to wipe down the surface?  Acetone?
>
> 2.  After sanding each coat of varnish what is used to wipe down the
> varnish prior to applying next coat?  Some sort of paint thinner or
> something else?  I have Interlux 202 Solvent wash, paint thinner, Interlux
> special thinner 216 and acetone on hand as well as a Canadian Tire and a
> Chandlery on my drive home
>
> 3.  How many coats of epoxy prior to first coat of varnish?  (finish
> surface)
>
> 4.  How many coats of varnish over the epoxy? (finish surface)
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 22 #16
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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Re: Stus-List cabin sole question/update

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

For the second round of replacing the cabin sole and after using a single coat 
of epoxy with about 8 coats of gloss varnish on the first effort 12 years ago, 
I changed up.

1 coat Awlwood MA Primer
4 coats Awlwood MA Gloss
2 coats satin varnish of choice. I needed two coats because I’m a crappy 
varnisher…

And all I ever did between coats was sand, clean with a ling-free rag and use a 
tack-rag as I was brushing. Which is probably a bad thing…  :-)

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Mar 16, 2016, at 1:28 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi
>  
> All sections of new cabin sole are cut out and fitted and now the coating is 
> in progress.  I have two coats of West 105/207 on the finished side of the 
> teak and holly as well as underneath and on edges.  Following epoxy I am 
> planning a number of coats of Epifanes varnish on the finished side only.
>  
> A couple of questions.
>  
> 1.  After sanding epoxy and prior to initial coat of varnish what should 
> be used to wipe down the surface?  Acetone?
> 2.  After sanding each coat of varnish what is used to wipe down the 
> varnish prior to applying next coat?  Some sort of paint thinner or something 
> else?  I have Interlux 202 Solvent wash, paint thinner, Interlux special 
> thinner 216 and acetone on hand as well as a Canadian Tire and a Chandlery on 
> my drive home
> 3.  How many coats of epoxy prior to first coat of varnish?  (finish 
> surface)
> 4.  How many coats of varnish over the epoxy? (finish surface)
>  
> Thanks
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
> 1987 Frers 22 #16
> Halifax, NS
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
> 

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Stus-List cabin sole question/update

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi

All sections of new cabin sole are cut out and fitted and now the coating is in 
progress.  I have two coats of West 105/207 on the finished side of the teak 
and holly as well as underneath and on edges.  Following epoxy I am planning a 
number of coats of Epifanes varnish on the finished side only.

A couple of questions.


1.  After sanding epoxy and prior to initial coat of varnish what should be 
used to wipe down the surface?  Acetone?

2.  After sanding each coat of varnish what is used to wipe down the 
varnish prior to applying next coat?  Some sort of paint thinner or something 
else?  I have Interlux 202 Solvent wash, paint thinner, Interlux special 
thinner 216 and acetone on hand as well as a Canadian Tire and a Chandlery on 
my drive home

3.  How many coats of epoxy prior to first coat of varnish?  (finish 
surface)

4.  How many coats of varnish over the epoxy? (finish surface)

Thanks

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 22 #16
Halifax, NS
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
___

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Re: Stus-List cabin sole question/update

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Joel

Regular paint thinner?

Steve

Yes – I have read that.  A friend (formerly C and now C) used varnish 
over epoxy on the 25 with great results.  Seals the teak better and hopefully 
holds up better/longer than varnish.  Teak & Holly now $609 CAD for 4x8 sheet 
so wantto take good care of it

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2016 2:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List cabin sole question/update

Mike,

I did 3 coats of epoxy.  Used thinner between coats.  I'd use thinner between 
coats of varnish too.

I don't know what Ephiphanes recommends for the number of coats. I used Cetol 
natural x 3.   I imagine that's the minimum you would apply.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Wed, Mar 16, 2016 at 1:28 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi

All sections of new cabin sole are cut out and fitted and now the coating is in 
progress.  I have two coats of West 105/207 on the finished side of the teak 
and holly as well as underneath and on edges.  Following epoxy I am planning a 
number of coats of Epifanes varnish on the finished side only.

A couple of questions.


1.  After sanding epoxy and prior to initial coat of varnish what should be 
used to wipe down the surface?  Acetone?

2.  After sanding each coat of varnish what is used to wipe down the 
varnish prior to applying next coat?  Some sort of paint thinner or something 
else?  I have Interlux 202 Solvent wash, paint thinner, Interlux special 
thinner 216 and acetone on hand as well as a Canadian Tire and a Chandlery on 
my drive home

3.  How many coats of epoxy prior to first coat of varnish?  (finish 
surface)

4.  How many coats of varnish over the epoxy? (finish surface)

Thanks

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 22 #16
Halifax, NS
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt

___

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--
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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Stus-List cabin sole question/update

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

Have used several different epoxy systems over the years and have found
that prep can vary a bit.  Cured epoxy leaves a film on its surface
referred to as "amine blush" that needs to be removed.  It is water
soluble.  I have found that some types wipe off with a wet rag, some must
be washed more aggressively,  (cure temp affects this too I think)  Wipe
with acetone after that if you wish.  I scuff sand after as well.  FYI - I
recently tried a "blushless" resin, which was not. Maybe they meant
blush-less?  Dunno.

For outdoor applications, epoxy MUST  be varnished or painted as it has no
inherent UV resistance.  For sun-baked, non-structural things like
handrails, I would not bother with epoxy, its easier to stick (so to speak)
to one system, and you will be varnishing anyway.

FWIW Doing my cabin sole as well, and repaired/epoxied the board around the
mast step (some carpentry involved, and rot and damage repair but the rest
is in good shape and has resisted whatever water it has encountered since
'85.  Urethane varnish only.

Epoxy seems really benign but it isn't, so be careful.  You can become
sensitized with cumulative exposure (as my Dad has been) and I recently
developed a really nasty rash after doing some work.  Possibly the price of
carelessness over time.

Dave





Message: 3
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2016 17:28:13 +
From: "Hoyt, Mike" <mike.h...@impgroup.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Stus-List cabin sole question/update
Message-ID:
<169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f129...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi

All sections of new cabin sole are cut out and fitted and now the coating
is in progress.  I have two coats of West 105/207 on the finished side of
the teak and holly as well as underneath and on edges.  Following epoxy I
am planning a number of coats of Epifanes varnish on the finished side only.

A couple of questions.


1.  After sanding epoxy and prior to initial coat of varnish what
should be used to wipe down the surface?  Acetone?

2.  After sanding each coat of varnish what is used to wipe down the
varnish prior to applying next coat?  Some sort of paint thinner or
something else?  I have Interlux 202 Solvent wash, paint thinner, Interlux
special thinner 216 and acetone on hand as well as a Canadian Tire and a
Chandlery on my drive home

3.  How many coats of epoxy prior to first coat of varnish?  (finish
surface)

4.  How many coats of varnish over the epoxy? (finish surface)

Thanks

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 22 #16
Halifax, NS
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2016 13:36:19 -0400
From: Stevan Plavsa <stevanpla...@gmail.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List cabin sole question/update
Message-ID:
<caddevn59d-b0nldtrv_tt_zundo2bs5ygz4nckjkutw_xyg...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Maybe you already read this but:
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/varnish-over-epoxy/

I had to search it because I had not heard of varnishing over epoxy before.
Interesting.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List cabin sole question/update

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Mike,

I did 3 coats of epoxy.  Used thinner between coats.  I'd use thinner
between coats of varnish too.

I don't know what Ephiphanes recommends for the number of coats. I used
Cetol natural x 3.   I imagine that's the minimum you would apply.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Wed, Mar 16, 2016 at 1:28 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi
>
>
>
> All sections of new cabin sole are cut out and fitted and now the coating
> is in progress.  I have two coats of West 105/207 on the finished side of
> the teak and holly as well as underneath and on edges.  Following epoxy I
> am planning a number of coats of Epifanes varnish on the finished side only.
>
>
>
> A couple of questions.
>
>
>
> 1.  After sanding epoxy and prior to initial coat of varnish what
> should be used to wipe down the surface?  Acetone?
>
> 2.  After sanding each coat of varnish what is used to wipe down the
> varnish prior to applying next coat?  Some sort of paint thinner or
> something else?  I have Interlux 202 Solvent wash, paint thinner, Interlux
> special thinner 216 and acetone on hand as well as a Canadian Tire and a
> Chandlery on my drive home
>
> 3.  How many coats of epoxy prior to first coat of varnish?  (finish
> surface)
>
> 4.  How many coats of varnish over the epoxy? (finish surface)
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 22 #16
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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Re: Stus-List Stus List Cabin Sole

[Arnold Griesel via CnC-List]

Mike,

Jeff is a friend and owner of Like Father, Like Son II.  Jeff will forward 
the cost of the TH ply wood to you.

Arnold {:-)

On Wed, 4/15/15, Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com wrote:

 Subject: RE: Stus-List Stus List Cabin Sole
 To: Arnold Griesel arnold...@ymail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Wednesday, April 15, 2015, 7:28 AM
 
 What did they charge you
 for shipping or was that local for you?
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Arnold Griesel via CnC-List
 Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2015 8:54 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus List Cabin Sole
 
 I am currently working on a
 new cabin sole for a CC 32 #109.  I looked and
 compared Teak and Holley plywood online using these
 points:  veneer thickness, spacing of TH, core and
 country of origin.  
 
 This
 is the one we went with:
 
 http://www.seacoasthardwood.com/marine-plywood/teak-and-holly
 
 http://www.bruynzeelmultipanel.com/products/view/id/80?cid=3⟨=en
 
 The coating is:
 
 Two coats RAKA epoxy and five
 coats of Epifanes's PU Clear Gloss two part varnish.
 
 This is not an add, I am a
 DIYer in Oklahoma.  It is looking great!  What is a
 money pit? A Sailboat.  {:-)
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

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Re: Stus-List Stus List Cabin Sole

[Arnold Griesel via CnC-List]

I am currently working on a new cabin sole for a CC 32 #109.  I looked and 
compared Teak and Holley plywood online using these points:  veneer thickness, 
spacing of TH, core and country of origin.  

This is the one we went with:

http://www.seacoasthardwood.com/marine-plywood/teak-and-holly

http://www.bruynzeelmultipanel.com/products/view/id/80?cid=3lang=en

The coating is:

Two coats RAKA epoxy and five coats of Epifanes's PU Clear Gloss two part 
varnish.

This is not an add, I am a DIYer in Oklahoma.  It is looking great!  What is a 
money pit? A Sailboat.  {:-)

___

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Re: Stus-List Stus List Cabin Sole

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

What did they charge you for shipping or was that local for you?

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Arnold 
Griesel via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2015 8:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus List Cabin Sole

I am currently working on a new cabin sole for a CC 32 #109.  I looked and 
compared Teak and Holley plywood online using these points:  veneer thickness, 
spacing of TH, core and country of origin.  

This is the one we went with:

http://www.seacoasthardwood.com/marine-plywood/teak-and-holly

http://www.bruynzeelmultipanel.com/products/view/id/80?cid=3lang=en

The coating is:

Two coats RAKA epoxy and five coats of Epifanes's PU Clear Gloss two part 
varnish.

This is not an add, I am a DIYer in Oklahoma.  It is looking great!  What is a 
money pit? A Sailboat.  {:-)

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Stus-List cabin sole

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

We are looking to replace the cabin sole in our Frers 33 this season.  It is 
comprised of horizontal floors and covered by 3/4 inch teak and holly.  This is 
very likely the same as many CCs.

To date I can source 1/2 inch Teak and Holly locally but there is no stock and 
no known reorder date for 3/4 inch.  The two sources in Halifax are East Coast 
Specialty Hardwood who have 1/4 and 1/2 inch in stock and are out of stock on 
3/4 and Halifax Specialty Hardwoods who only stock 1/4 and 1/2 inch.

This leaves me to try one of three options:

1- Source out of town 3/4 TH and pay for the shipping of a 78 lb piece of 4x8 
plywood.

2- Use 1/2 inch in place of 3/4

3- Laminate 1/4 inch on top of 1/2 inch marine plywood.

And the always available 4th option.  Procrastinate and do this next year

Does anyone have any thoughts on this or know of other suppliers near Halifax?

Regards

Mike Hoyt
1987 Frers 33
Persistence
Halifax, NS



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Re: Stus-List cabin sole

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Procrastinating is always a good option.
On Apr 14, 2015 12:30 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 We are looking to replace the cabin sole in our Frers 33 this season.  It
 is comprised of horizontal floors and covered by 3/4 inch teak and holly.
 This is very likely the same as many CCs.

 To date I can source 1/2 inch Teak and Holly locally but there is no stock
 and no known reorder date for 3/4 inch.  The two sources in Halifax are
 East Coast Specialty Hardwood who have 1/4 and 1/2 inch in stock and are
 out of stock on 3/4 and Halifax Specialty Hardwoods who only stock 1/4 and
 1/2 inch.

 This leaves me to try one of three options:

 1- Source out of town 3/4 TH and pay for the shipping of a 78 lb piece of
 4x8 plywood.

 2- Use 1/2 inch in place of 3/4

 3- Laminate 1/4 inch on top of 1/2 inch marine plywood.

 And the always available 4th option.  Procrastinate and do this next year

 Does anyone have any thoughts on this or know of other suppliers near
 Halifax?

 Regards

 Mike Hoyt
 1987 Frers 33
 Persistence
 Halifax, NS



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Re: Stus-List cabin sole

[Harry Hallgring via CnC-List]

$50 cheaper in MD:)




Harry Hallgring
hhallgr...@icloud.com


On Apr 14, 2015, at 12:47 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:






Come visit Maryland



http://www.exoticlumberinc.com/plywood.php





$275 a sheet.




Joel



On Tue, Apr 14, 2015 at 12:43 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:



Not to make things more complicated but the veneers on the currently available materials are thinner than the original TH used in our CCs of the 70's and 80's. 


Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD

1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230

email: dainyr...@icloud.com 


blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com




There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing 
about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame




On Apr 14, 2015, at 12:30 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:




We are looking to replace the cabin sole in our Frers 33 this season.  It is 
comprised of horizontal floors and covered by 3/4 inch teak and holly.  This is 
very likely the same as many CCs.

To date I can source 1/2 inch Teak and Holly locally but there is no stock and 
no known reorder date for 3/4 inch.  The two sources in Halifax are East Coast 
Specialty Hardwood who have 1/4 and 1/2 inch in stock and are out of stock on 
3/4 and Halifax Specialty Hardwoods who only stock 1/4 and 1/2 inch.

This leaves me to try one of three options:

1- Source out of town 3/4 TH and pay for the shipping of a 78 lb piece of 4x8 
plywood.

2- Use 1/2 inch in place of 3/4

3- Laminate 1/4 inch on top of 1/2 inch marine plywood.

And the always available 4th option.  Procrastinate and do this next year

Does anyone have any thoughts on this or know of other suppliers near Halifax?

Regards

Mike Hoyt
1987 Frers 33
Persistence
Halifax, NS



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--

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301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List cabin sole

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Not to make things more complicated but the veneers on the currently available 
materials are thinner than the original TH used in our CCs of the 70's and 
80's. 

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame

 On Apr 14, 2015, at 12:30 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 We are looking to replace the cabin sole in our Frers 33 this season.  It is 
 comprised of horizontal floors and covered by 3/4 inch teak and holly.  This 
 is very likely the same as many CCs.
 
 To date I can source 1/2 inch Teak and Holly locally but there is no stock 
 and no known reorder date for 3/4 inch.  The two sources in Halifax are East 
 Coast Specialty Hardwood who have 1/4 and 1/2 inch in stock and are out of 
 stock on 3/4 and Halifax Specialty Hardwoods who only stock 1/4 and 1/2 inch.
 
 This leaves me to try one of three options:
 
 1- Source out of town 3/4 TH and pay for the shipping of a 78 lb piece of 
 4x8 plywood.
 
 2- Use 1/2 inch in place of 3/4
 
 3- Laminate 1/4 inch on top of 1/2 inch marine plywood.
 
 And the always available 4th option.  Procrastinate and do this next year
 
 Does anyone have any thoughts on this or know of other suppliers near Halifax?
 
 Regards
 
 Mike Hoyt
 1987 Frers 33
 Persistence
 Halifax, NS
 
 
 
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Re: Stus-List cabin sole

[Harry Hallgring via CnC-List]

Mike,

Boulter Plywood, Somerville, MA (best price)

Atlantic Plywood, Rumford, RI

Jamestown Distributors, Bristol, RI



I have three sheets of 3/4 on back order for the same project on MIRAGE.  I am 
hearing anywhere from 10 days to over a month.  All distributors are having trouble 
getting it.  There is also the composite laminate option...which I don't like, 
but...a whole lot more affordable and available.  We have a Farr 395 here doing 
composite if you want a few photos.






Harry Hallgring
hhallgr...@icloud.com


On Apr 14, 2015, at 12:30 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:






We are looking to replace the cabin sole in our Frers 33 this season. It is 
comprised of horizontal floors and covered by 3/4 inch teak and holly. This is very 
likely the same as many CCs.

To date I can source 1/2 inch Teak and Holly locally but there is no stock and 
no known reorder date for 3/4 inch. The two sources in Halifax are East Coast 
Specialty Hardwood who have 1/4 and 1/2 inch in stock and are out of stock on 
3/4 and Halifax Specialty Hardwoods who only stock 1/4 and 1/2 inch.

This leaves me to try one of three options:

1- Source out of town 3/4 TH and pay for the shipping of a 78 lb piece of 4x8 
plywood.

2- Use 1/2 inch in place of 3/4

3- Laminate 1/4 inch on top of 1/2 inch marine plywood.

And the always available 4th option. Procrastinate and do this next year

Does anyone have any thoughts on this or know of other suppliers near Halifax?

Regards

Mike Hoyt
1987 Frers 33
Persistence
Halifax, NS



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Re: Stus-List cabin sole

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Come visit Maryland

http://www.exoticlumberinc.com/plywood.php

$275 a sheet.

Joel

On Tue, Apr 14, 2015 at 12:43 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Not to make things more complicated but the veneers on the currently
 available materials are thinner than the original TH used in our CCs of
 the 70's and 80's.

 Bob Boyer
 S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
 email: dainyr...@icloud.com
 blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

 There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
 messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame

 On Apr 14, 2015, at 12:30 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 We are looking to replace the cabin sole in our Frers 33 this season.  It
 is comprised of horizontal floors and covered by 3/4 inch teak and holly.
 This is very likely the same as many CCs.

 To date I can source 1/2 inch Teak and Holly locally but there is no stock
 and no known reorder date for 3/4 inch.  The two sources in Halifax are
 East Coast Specialty Hardwood who have 1/4 and 1/2 inch in stock and are
 out of stock on 3/4 and Halifax Specialty Hardwoods who only stock 1/4 and
 1/2 inch.

 This leaves me to try one of three options:

 1- Source out of town 3/4 TH and pay for the shipping of a 78 lb piece of
 4x8 plywood.

 2- Use 1/2 inch in place of 3/4

 3- Laminate 1/4 inch on top of 1/2 inch marine plywood.

 And the always available 4th option.  Procrastinate and do this next year

 Does anyone have any thoughts on this or know of other suppliers near
 Halifax?

 Regards

 Mike Hoyt
 1987 Frers 33
 Persistence
 Halifax, NS



 ___

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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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 bottom of page at:
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-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List cabin sole

[robert via CnC-List]

Mike:

Not sure I would use 1/2 TH vs. 3/4  because it is available locally. 
  Your Micron 66 wasn't available locally and look at your level of 
effort to get 'a one timer' versus your cabin sole for as long as you 
own and enjoy Persistence.


Bite the bullet and order the 3/4 TH and do it right.

PS:  I was at the boat yesterdaymy first Spring project will be to 
go back this week with my axe and shovel to remove the 'glacier' where I 
place my step ladder to board.  Don't think I am going 'splash' just yet.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2015-04-14 1:30 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

We are looking to replace the cabin sole in our Frers 33 this season.  It is 
comprised of horizontal floors and covered by 3/4 inch teak and holly.  This is 
very likely the same as many CCs.

To date I can source 1/2 inch Teak and Holly locally but there is no stock and 
no known reorder date for 3/4 inch.  The two sources in Halifax are East Coast 
Specialty Hardwood who have 1/4 and 1/2 inch in stock and are out of stock on 
3/4 and Halifax Specialty Hardwoods who only stock 1/4 and 1/2 inch.

This leaves me to try one of three options:

1- Source out of town 3/4 TH and pay for the shipping of a 78 lb piece of 4x8 
plywood.

2- Use 1/2 inch in place of 3/4

3- Laminate 1/4 inch on top of 1/2 inch marine plywood.

And the always available 4th option.  Procrastinate and do this next year

Does anyone have any thoughts on this or know of other suppliers near Halifax?

Regards

Mike Hoyt
1987 Frers 33
Persistence
Halifax, NS



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Re: Stus-List cabin sole

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Can you simply add 1/4 inch spacers on top of the floors?

Dennis C.

On Tue, Apr 14, 2015 at 11:30 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 We are looking to replace the cabin sole in our Frers 33 this season.  It
 is comprised of horizontal floors and covered by 3/4 inch teak and holly.
 This is very likely the same as many CCs.

 To date I can source 1/2 inch Teak and Holly locally but there is no stock
 and no known reorder date for 3/4 inch.  The two sources in Halifax are
 East Coast Specialty Hardwood who have 1/4 and 1/2 inch in stock and are
 out of stock on 3/4 and Halifax Specialty Hardwoods who only stock 1/4 and
 1/2 inch.

 This leaves me to try one of three options:

 1- Source out of town 3/4 TH and pay for the shipping of a 78 lb piece of
 4x8 plywood.

 2- Use 1/2 inch in place of 3/4

 3- Laminate 1/4 inch on top of 1/2 inch marine plywood.

 And the always available 4th option.  Procrastinate and do this next year

 Does anyone have any thoughts on this or know of other suppliers near
 Halifax?

 Regards

 Mike Hoyt
 1987 Frers 33
 Persistence
 Halifax, NS



 ___

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Re: Stus-List cabin sole

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Depends how much beer was spilled and how much is left in the cooler

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2015 2:55 PM
To: Burt Stratton; 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List cabin sole

That would be tung oil unless you licked your floor a lot.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 14 April 2015 at 10:05, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
The sole in our 74' CC 33 is solid teak (~three quarter thick by ~2 inch
wide) floorboards. No Holly, just spaces between the teak and cross-members
below all morticed to keep the overall thickness consistent. It is original
to the boat. Looked like hell when we bought her. 2-part teak cleaner and a
lot of coats of tongue oil (yes tongue oil) and they still look like new
after a season of hard use. Very sturdy and durable design but not as
aesthetically pleasing as TH. Would probably be relatively easy to
fabricate. Makes it easy to see what you have in the bilge, too.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2015 12:30 PM
To: Bradley Lumgair; cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List cabin sole

We are looking to replace the cabin sole in our Frers 33 this season.  It is
comprised of horizontal floors and covered by 3/4 inch teak and holly.  This
is very likely the same as many CCs.

To date I can source 1/2 inch Teak and Holly locally but there is no stock
and no known reorder date for 3/4 inch.  The two sources in Halifax are East
Coast Specialty Hardwood who have 1/4 and 1/2 inch in stock and are out of
stock on 3/4 and Halifax Specialty Hardwoods who only stock 1/4 and 1/2
inch.

This leaves me to try one of three options:

1- Source out of town 3/4 TH and pay for the shipping of a 78 lb piece of
4x8 plywood.

2- Use 1/2 inch in place of 3/4

3- Laminate 1/4 inch on top of 1/2 inch marine plywood.

And the always available 4th option.  Procrastinate and do this next year

Does anyone have any thoughts on this or know of other suppliers near
Halifax?

Regards

Mike Hoyt
1987 Frers 33
Persistence
Halifax, NS



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Re: Stus-List cabin sole

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

The sole in our 74' CC 33 is solid teak (~three quarter thick by ~2 inch
wide) floorboards. No Holly, just spaces between the teak and cross-members
below all morticed to keep the overall thickness consistent. It is original
to the boat. Looked like hell when we bought her. 2-part teak cleaner and a
lot of coats of tongue oil (yes tongue oil) and they still look like new
after a season of hard use. Very sturdy and durable design but not as
aesthetically pleasing as TH. Would probably be relatively easy to
fabricate. Makes it easy to see what you have in the bilge, too. 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2015 12:30 PM
To: Bradley Lumgair; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List cabin sole

We are looking to replace the cabin sole in our Frers 33 this season.  It is
comprised of horizontal floors and covered by 3/4 inch teak and holly.  This
is very likely the same as many CCs.

To date I can source 1/2 inch Teak and Holly locally but there is no stock
and no known reorder date for 3/4 inch.  The two sources in Halifax are East
Coast Specialty Hardwood who have 1/4 and 1/2 inch in stock and are out of
stock on 3/4 and Halifax Specialty Hardwoods who only stock 1/4 and 1/2
inch.

This leaves me to try one of three options:

1- Source out of town 3/4 TH and pay for the shipping of a 78 lb piece of
4x8 plywood.

2- Use 1/2 inch in place of 3/4

3- Laminate 1/4 inch on top of 1/2 inch marine plywood.

And the always available 4th option.  Procrastinate and do this next year

Does anyone have any thoughts on this or know of other suppliers near
Halifax?

Regards

Mike Hoyt
1987 Frers 33
Persistence
Halifax, NS



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Re: Stus-List cabin sole

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

That would be tung oil unless you licked your floor a lot.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 14 April 2015 at 10:05, Burt Stratton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

 The sole in our 74' CC 33 is solid teak (~three quarter thick by ~2 inch
 wide) floorboards. No Holly, just spaces between the teak and cross-members
 below all morticed to keep the overall thickness consistent. It is original
 to the boat. Looked like hell when we bought her. 2-part teak cleaner and a
 lot of coats of tongue oil (yes tongue oil) and they still look like new
 after a season of hard use. Very sturdy and durable design but not as
 aesthetically pleasing as TH. Would probably be relatively easy to
 fabricate. Makes it easy to see what you have in the bilge, too.

 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
 Mike via CnC-List
 Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2015 12:30 PM
 To: Bradley Lumgair; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List cabin sole

 We are looking to replace the cabin sole in our Frers 33 this season.  It
 is
 comprised of horizontal floors and covered by 3/4 inch teak and holly.
 This
 is very likely the same as many CCs.

 To date I can source 1/2 inch Teak and Holly locally but there is no stock
 and no known reorder date for 3/4 inch.  The two sources in Halifax are
 East
 Coast Specialty Hardwood who have 1/4 and 1/2 inch in stock and are out of
 stock on 3/4 and Halifax Specialty Hardwoods who only stock 1/4 and 1/2
 inch.

 This leaves me to try one of three options:

 1- Source out of town 3/4 TH and pay for the shipping of a 78 lb piece of
 4x8 plywood.

 2- Use 1/2 inch in place of 3/4

 3- Laminate 1/4 inch on top of 1/2 inch marine plywood.

 And the always available 4th option.  Procrastinate and do this next year

 Does anyone have any thoughts on this or know of other suppliers near
 Halifax?

 Regards

 Mike Hoyt
 1987 Frers 33
 Persistence
 Halifax, NS



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Re: Stus-List cabin sole

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Francois, 
Cabin Sole: 
The Best Practice method is to seal the wood w clear epoxy; the bottom gets 
three coats and one or two coats on top side. Then varnish the topside as a 
wearing surface. There are varnishes that are shiny and not so slippery. 

When refinishing the sole, the top surface veneer is paper thin. There are 
usually places where it's worn through and sanding these will make it worse. 
Best to keep expectations low and cleanup what you have and seal and refinish 
it as best you can. Then protect the completed surface with towels or carpet. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 CC 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2015 5:18:45 PM 
Subject: Stus-List cabin sole 

Instead of going to the expense of purchasing new wood + efforts on cutting to 
fit precisely how about re-finishing? I was going to replace mine until I read 
this article: 
http://morgan38.org/discus/messages/1/Saving_your_Teak___Holly_Sole-19585.pdf 

I also bought teak strips to fill in dings (cheap) It's on my todo now. I was 
considering epoxy / polyurethane but after discussing with my professional wood 
worker buddy will use Interlux Perfection Plus for the finish (Coating both 
sides) 


Just a thought.. 


-Francois Rivard 
1990 34+ Take Five 
Lake Lanier, GA 
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Stus-List cabin sole

[Paul Hood via CnC-List]

I bought my boat 2 years ago and the TH sole was pooched.   That's the
official term for gonzo.  It was rotten and the face was far from
salvageable.  I decided to replace it with a Loneseal TH sheet good.  I
glued it 2 years ago using marine grade adhesive to a G1S marine grade 3/4
plywood.  It still looks like new, has good tractions, slight grain, cleans
well and no maintenance.  Its not the real teak and holly stuff but I really
like it.  It's an option.

http://www.lonsealspecialty.com/show_product/LONWOOD%20MARINE

Thanks,
Paul
CC34 1982

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Sent: April 14, 2015 5:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 111, Issue 28

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Today's Topics:

   1.  cabin sole (Hoyt, Mike)
   2. Re:  cabin sole (Josh Muckley)
   3. Re:  cabin sole (Dennis C.)
   4. Re:  cabin sole (Robert Boyer)
   5. Re:  cabin sole (Joel Aronson)
   6. Re:  cabin sole (Harry Hallgring)
   7. Re:  cabin sole (Harry Hallgring)
   8. Re:  cabin sole (Burt Stratton)
   9. Re:  cabin sole (Jim Watts)
  10. Re:  cabin sole (Hoyt, Mike)
  11. Re:  cabin sole (robert)
  12. Re:  cabin sole (Burt Stratton)
  13. Re:  cabin sole (Graham Collins)
  14. Re:  cabin sole (Neil Andersen)


--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2015 16:30:29 +
From: Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com
To: Bradley Lumgair lumg...@hotmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List cabin sole
Message-ID:
169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f08d...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

We are looking to replace the cabin sole in our Frers 33 this season.  It is
comprised of horizontal floors and covered by 3/4 inch teak and holly.  This
is very likely the same as many CCs.

To date I can source 1/2 inch Teak and Holly locally but there is no stock
and no known reorder date for 3/4 inch.  The two sources in Halifax are East
Coast Specialty Hardwood who have 1/4 and 1/2 inch in stock and are out of
stock on 3/4 and Halifax Specialty Hardwoods who only stock 1/4 and 1/2
inch.

This leaves me to try one of three options:

1- Source out of town 3/4 TH and pay for the shipping of a 78 lb piece of
4x8 plywood.

2- Use 1/2 inch in place of 3/4

3- Laminate 1/4 inch on top of 1/2 inch marine plywood.

And the always available 4th option.  Procrastinate and do this next year

Does anyone have any thoughts on this or know of other suppliers near
Halifax?

Regards

Mike Hoyt
1987 Frers 33
Persistence
Halifax, NS





--

Message: 2
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2015 12:32:41 -0400
From: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com
To: Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com, CC List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List cabin sole
Message-ID:
ca+zacrd2fudnxs+oho-n+wsp1ioe2wig9dath3ztasttiyq...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Procrastinating is always a good option.
On Apr 14, 2015 12:30 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 We are looking to replace the cabin sole in our Frers 33 this season.  
 It is comprised of horizontal floors and covered by 3/4 inch teak and
holly.
 This is very likely the same as many CCs.

 To date I can source 1/2 inch Teak and Holly locally but there is no 
 stock and no known reorder date for 3/4 inch.  The two sources in 
 Halifax are East Coast Specialty Hardwood who have 1/4 and 1/2 inch in 
 stock and are out of stock on 3/4 and Halifax Specialty Hardwoods who 
 only stock 1/4 and
 1/2 inch.

 This leaves me to try one of three options:

 1- Source out of town 3/4 TH and pay for the shipping of a 78 lb 
 piece of
 4x8 plywood.

 2- Use 1/2 inch in place of 3/4

 3- Laminate 1/4 inch on top of 1/2 inch marine plywood.

 And the always available 4th option.  Procrastinate and do this next 
 year

 Does anyone have any thoughts on this or know of other suppliers near 
 Halifax?

 Regards

 Mike Hoyt
 1987 Frers 33
 Persistence
 Halifax, NS



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Re: Stus-List cabin sole

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Mike
Procrastinate.  This is better done as a winter project, if you start 
now you will either be rushing it or be delayed in launch.  I pulled 
mine out, took it home over a winter to use as a template, and put new 
sole in the boat in the spring.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
CC 35-III #11

On 2015-04-14 1:30 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

We are looking to replace the cabin sole in our Frers 33 this season.  It is 
comprised of horizontal floors and covered by 3/4 inch teak and holly.  This is 
very likely the same as many CCs.

To date I can source 1/2 inch Teak and Holly locally but there is no stock and 
no known reorder date for 3/4 inch.  The two sources in Halifax are East Coast 
Specialty Hardwood who have 1/4 and 1/2 inch in stock and are out of stock on 
3/4 and Halifax Specialty Hardwoods who only stock 1/4 and 1/2 inch.

This leaves me to try one of three options:

1- Source out of town 3/4 TH and pay for the shipping of a 78 lb piece of 4x8 
plywood.

2- Use 1/2 inch in place of 3/4

3- Laminate 1/4 inch on top of 1/2 inch marine plywood.

And the always available 4th option.  Procrastinate and do this next year

Does anyone have any thoughts on this or know of other suppliers near Halifax?

Regards

Mike Hoyt
1987 Frers 33
Persistence
Halifax, NS



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Re: Stus-List cabin sole

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

There is a huge difference in stiffness and strength between 1/2 and 3/4
inches.  Remember that the cabin floor needs to support weight between the
spreaders...

Neil

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2015 2:01 PM
To: Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List cabin sole

Mike:

Not sure I would use 1/2 TH vs. 3/4  because it is available locally. 
   Your Micron 66 wasn't available locally and look at your level of effort
to get 'a one timer' versus your cabin sole for as long as you own and enjoy
Persistence.

Bite the bullet and order the 3/4 TH and do it right.

PS:  I was at the boat yesterdaymy first Spring project will be to go
back this week with my axe and shovel to remove the 'glacier' where I place
my step ladder to board.  Don't think I am going 'splash' just yet.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2015-04-14 1:30 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
 We are looking to replace the cabin sole in our Frers 33 this season.  It
is comprised of horizontal floors and covered by 3/4 inch teak and holly.
This is very likely the same as many CCs.

 To date I can source 1/2 inch Teak and Holly locally but there is no stock
and no known reorder date for 3/4 inch.  The two sources in Halifax are East
Coast Specialty Hardwood who have 1/4 and 1/2 inch in stock and are out of
stock on 3/4 and Halifax Specialty Hardwoods who only stock 1/4 and 1/2
inch.

 This leaves me to try one of three options:

 1- Source out of town 3/4 TH and pay for the shipping of a 78 lb piece of
4x8 plywood.

 2- Use 1/2 inch in place of 3/4

 3- Laminate 1/4 inch on top of 1/2 inch marine plywood.

 And the always available 4th option.  Procrastinate and do this next 
 year

 Does anyone have any thoughts on this or know of other suppliers near
Halifax?

 Regards

 Mike Hoyt
 1987 Frers 33
 Persistence
 Halifax, NS



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Stus-List cabin sole

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Instead of going to the expense of purchasing new wood + efforts on 
cutting to fit precisely how about re-finishing?   I was going to replace 
mine until I read this article:  
http://morgan38.org/discus/messages/1/Saving_your_Teak___Holly_Sole-19585.pdf

I also bought teak strips to fill in dings (cheap)  It's on my todo now. 
 I was considering epoxy / polyurethane  but after discussing with my 
professional wood worker buddy will use Interlux Perfection Plus for the 
finish (Coating both sides) 


Just a thought.. 


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, GA___

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Re: Stus-List cabin sole

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Scotch…

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2015 1:57 PM
To: Jim Watts; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List cabin sole

 

Depends how much beer was spilled and how much is left in the cooler

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2015 2:55 PM
To: Burt Stratton; 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List cabin sole

 

That would be tung oil unless you licked your floor a lot. 




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

On 14 April 2015 at 10:05, Burt Stratton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

The sole in our 74' CC 33 is solid teak (~three quarter thick by ~2 inch
wide) floorboards. No Holly, just spaces between the teak and cross-members
below all morticed to keep the overall thickness consistent. It is original
to the boat. Looked like hell when we bought her. 2-part teak cleaner and a
lot of coats of tongue oil (yes tongue oil) and they still look like new
after a season of hard use. Very sturdy and durable design but not as
aesthetically pleasing as TH. Would probably be relatively easy to
fabricate. Makes it easy to see what you have in the bilge, too.


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2015 12:30 PM
To: Bradley Lumgair; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List cabin sole

We are looking to replace the cabin sole in our Frers 33 this season.  It is
comprised of horizontal floors and covered by 3/4 inch teak and holly.  This
is very likely the same as many CCs.

To date I can source 1/2 inch Teak and Holly locally but there is no stock
and no known reorder date for 3/4 inch.  The two sources in Halifax are East
Coast Specialty Hardwood who have 1/4 and 1/2 inch in stock and are out of
stock on 3/4 and Halifax Specialty Hardwoods who only stock 1/4 and 1/2
inch.

This leaves me to try one of three options:

1- Source out of town 3/4 TH and pay for the shipping of a 78 lb piece of
4x8 plywood.

2- Use 1/2 inch in place of 3/4

3- Laminate 1/4 inch on top of 1/2 inch marine plywood.

And the always available 4th option.  Procrastinate and do this next year

Does anyone have any thoughts on this or know of other suppliers near
Halifax?

Regards

Mike Hoyt
1987 Frers 33
Persistence
Halifax, NS



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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole replacement

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I have a little separation on one piece of the sole. I am going to try to 
gently open up the separations, inject some glue or epoxy and clamp it tight
John Enterprise 

 On Saturday, December 13, 2014 1:51 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
   

 Speakin' of which. Pegathy's cabin sole is original, I think, glass enclosed 
ply with holly/teak veneer and varnish. The veneer is separating from the ply, 
but the ply is in good shape, I think. I was thinking about using some kind of 
artificial teak/holly stuff and gluing it on top of the ply, after removing 
any loose veneer. Any suggestions as to if this is a good idea? And, if it is, 
what kind of stuff should I use. I'm hoping to do it over the winter.
Dan SheerPegathy CC LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole replacement

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

There are several sources for artificial holly teak. I've worked with PlasTeak 
to install PlasDek, the exterior version, on a deck hatch.  Google plastic teak 
floor for others. 

These products are relatively easy to install. Prep the undersurface, spread 
adhesive with a notched trowel, lay it down and roll it with a laminate floor 
roller ($25 at a big box home store).  Let cure 24 hours. Done. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

 On Dec 13, 2014, at 12:51 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Speakin' of which. Pegathy's cabin sole is original, I think, glass enclosed 
 ply with holly/teak veneer and varnish. The veneer is separating from the 
 ply, but the ply is in good shape, I think. I was thinking about using some 
 kind of artificial teak/holly stuff and gluing it on top of the ply, after 
 removing any loose veneer. Any suggestions as to if this is a good idea? And, 
 if it is, what kind of stuff should I use. I'm hoping to do it over the 
 winter.
 
 Dan Sheer
 Pegathy CC LF38
 Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement

[steve via CnC-List]

I acquired a 1984 CC 41 earlier this year that had a been on the hard for
a couple of years.  The boat's in pretty good shape and surveyed out
nicely.  However, it was left with standing water in the bilges.  The
freeze/thaw cycle completely destroyed the cabin sole so I needed to
replace it.

The shop just finished installing the new teak  holly marine grade plywood
sole and it looks pretty good.  Some gaps are wider than they should be and
the subfloor is pieced together poorly but, overall the sole really
improves the look of the cabin.

Now I'm looking at the bill - actually, choking on it.  The shop guy and I
apparently miscommunicated in a staggeringly significant manner.  I had
expected a bill of $4,100 which seemed high but, on the edge of reasonable
and, I just couldn't free up enough time to try the job myself. The actual
bill is for $9,600I could have freed up a lot more time at $9,600!!

So, I'm trying to find out if I just completely underestimated the work and
the cost is reasonable...or, if I'm getting totally and completely hosed.

I would love to hear opinions on this.  By the way, the cost of the wood
was about $700.  I don't know the cost of the varnish.

Steve Anderson
Shadow
CC 41
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Ouch!

If labor is 8600 (expensive varnish?), at $80 an hour it is over 100
hours.  At $40 an hour, it is over 200 hours.  Did they use hand saws and
rasps?  Sounds ridiculous for a mediocre job!

Joel

On Fri, Dec 12, 2014 at 4:00 PM, steve via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 I acquired a 1984 CC 41 earlier this year that had a been on the hard for
 a couple of years.  The boat's in pretty good shape and surveyed out
 nicely.  However, it was left with standing water in the bilges.  The
 freeze/thaw cycle completely destroyed the cabin sole so I needed to
 replace it.

 The shop just finished installing the new teak  holly marine
 grade plywood sole and it looks pretty good.  Some gaps are wider than they
 should be and the subfloor is pieced together poorly but, overall the sole
 really improves the look of the cabin.

 Now I'm looking at the bill - actually, choking on it.  The shop guy and I
 apparently miscommunicated in a staggeringly significant manner.  I had
 expected a bill of $4,100 which seemed high but, on the edge of reasonable
 and, I just couldn't free up enough time to try the job myself. The actual
 bill is for $9,600I could have freed up a lot more time at $9,600!!

 So, I'm trying to find out if I just completely underestimated the work
 and the cost is reasonable...or, if I'm getting totally and completely
 hosed.

 I would love to hear opinions on this.  By the way, the cost of the wood
 was about $700.  I don't know the cost of the varnish.

 Steve Anderson
 Shadow
 CC 41



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-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I paid about $1,200 in materials for a holly+teak sole for my 33' last summer.  
A friend and I did the work (actually he did most of it). I was told that the 
cost would be about $5,000 if I hired someone.

So your materials cost seems a bit low and labour seems a bit high.   $5 - $6k 
might be reasonable for 41'

Mike 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I'd assume a mistake and question the bill.  You can also ask for backup and 
they should be able to give you the hours by day.  Where did you come up with 
the $4100 figure.  Did they estimate that to you?   If so I'd think they owe 
you at least a good explanation of how the price could more than double without 
so much as a phone call to communicate why the bill was going up. Did they 
uncover some issue that needed to be addressed after beginning the job? if so 
they should have called and told you of the situation and asked for your 
approval to continue... I would suggest beginning from the perspective that 
there is must be some mistake in the billing and see how they react to your 
inquiry. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: steve steve0...@gmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2014 16:10:22 -0500


Ouch! If labor is 8600 (expensive varnish?), at $80 an hour it is over 100 
hours.  At $40 an hour, it is over 200 hours.  Did they use hand saws and 
rasps?  Sounds ridiculous for a mediocre job! Joel
On Fri, Dec 12, 2014 at 4:00 PM, steve via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.comwrote:I acquired a 1984 CC 41 earlier this year that 
had a been on the hard for a couple of years.  The boat's in pretty good shape 
and surveyed out nicely.  However, it was left with standing water in the 
bilges.  The freeze/thaw cycle completely destroyed the cabin sole so I needed 
to replace it. The shop just finished installing the new teak  holly marine 
grade plywood sole and it looks pretty good.  Some gaps are wider than they 
should be and the subfloor is pieced together poorly but, overall the sole 
really improves the look of the cabin. Now I'm looking at the bill - actually, 
choking on it.  The shop guy and I apparently miscommunicated in a staggeringly 
significant manner.  I had expected a bill of $4,100 which seemed high but, on 
the edge of reasonable and, I just couldn't free up enough time to try the job 
myself. The actual bill is for $9,600I could have freed up a lot more time 
at $9,600!! So, I'm trying to find out if I just completely underestimated the 
work and the cost is reasonable...or, if I'm getting totally and completely 
hosed. I would love to hear opinions on this.  By the way, the cost of the wood 
was about $700.  I don't know the cost of the varnish. Steve AndersonShadowCC 
41   
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  -- 
Joel 
301 541 8551___
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Steve, Wow! 

 

I’m curious where the $4,100 expectation came from. That is a huge difference. 
The cost of having professionals do any marine work is always a little 
surprising to me but this does seem high unless there were significant 
unanticipated challenges associated with the work. In that case you should have 
been apprised of the situation and given the opportunity for approval. They 
ought to be able to provide you with the details of the cost factors assuming 
this was not a firm quote. If it was a firm quote then “miscommunication” is an 
understatement. Like maybe you missed the second page of the quote with the 
total on it. Sorry to hear about your situation. 

 

Burt 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of steve via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2014 4:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement

 

I acquired a 1984 CC 41 earlier this year that had a been on the hard for a 
couple of years.  The boat's in pretty good shape and surveyed out nicely.  
However, it was left with standing water in the bilges.  The freeze/thaw cycle 
completely destroyed the cabin sole so I needed to replace it.

 

The shop just finished installing the new teak  holly marine grade plywood 
sole and it looks pretty good.  Some gaps are wider than they should be and the 
subfloor is pieced together poorly but, overall the sole really improves the 
look of the cabin.

 

Now I'm looking at the bill - actually, choking on it.  The shop guy and I 
apparently miscommunicated in a staggeringly significant manner.  I had 
expected a bill of $4,100 which seemed high but, on the edge of reasonable and, 
I just couldn't free up enough time to try the job myself. The actual bill is 
for $9,600I could have freed up a lot more time at $9,600!!

 

So, I'm trying to find out if I just completely underestimated the work and the 
cost is reasonable...or, if I'm getting totally and completely hosed.

 

I would love to hear opinions on this.  By the way, the cost of the wood was 
about $700.  I don't know the cost of the varnish.

 

Steve Anderson

Shadow

CC 41





 



 

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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement

[Dan Utinske via CnC-List]

Sounds like there's a need for KY Jelly!

On Fri, Dec 12, 2014 at 1:35 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Steve, Wow!



 I’m curious where the $4,100 expectation came from. That is a huge
 difference. The cost of having professionals do any marine work is always a
 little surprising to me but this does seem high unless there were
 significant unanticipated challenges associated with the work. In that case
 you should have been apprised of the situation and given the opportunity
 for approval. They ought to be able to provide you with the details of the
 cost factors assuming this was not a firm quote. If it was a firm quote
 then “miscommunication” is an understatement. Like maybe you missed the
 second page of the quote with the total on it. Sorry to hear about your
 situation.



 Burt



 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *steve
 via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Friday, December 12, 2014 4:00 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement



 I acquired a 1984 CC 41 earlier this year that had a been on the hard for
 a couple of years.  The boat's in pretty good shape and surveyed out
 nicely.  However, it was left with standing water in the bilges.  The
 freeze/thaw cycle completely destroyed the cabin sole so I needed to
 replace it.



 The shop just finished installing the new teak  holly marine
 grade plywood sole and it looks pretty good.  Some gaps are wider than they
 should be and the subfloor is pieced together poorly but, overall the sole
 really improves the look of the cabin.



 Now I'm looking at the bill - actually, choking on it.  The shop guy and I
 apparently miscommunicated in a staggeringly significant manner.  I had
 expected a bill of $4,100 which seemed high but, on the edge of reasonable
 and, I just couldn't free up enough time to try the job myself. The actual
 bill is for $9,600I could have freed up a lot more time at $9,600!!



 So, I'm trying to find out if I just completely underestimated the work
 and the cost is reasonable...or, if I'm getting totally and completely
 hosed.



 I would love to hear opinions on this.  By the way, the cost of the wood
 was about $700.  I don't know the cost of the varnish.



 Steve Anderson

 Shadow

 CC 41





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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Steve,

I’m in the process of replacing my cabin sole, for the 2nd time stupidly, and 
this sounds very high for that sort of a job. The others have calculated the 
costs and I am in agreement with their totals, around $4,200 to rebuild a cabin 
sole of the size in a 41. And I’m disturbed that some of the fitment is not 
tight. If they had the originals then there should be no bad joints or 
looseness. Good work with a router and some hand sanding should make for tight 
joints.

As regards the cost of varnish, I’m using AwlGrip’s Awlwood product this time 
around and is $70.00/quart for both the clear primer and the gloss finish….

I would try get detailed data on how and what was done on this project. I hope 
it all works out for you.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 CC 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/
 On Dec 12, 2014, at 4:00 PM, steve via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I acquired a 1984 CC 41 earlier this year that had a been on the hard for a 
 couple of years.  The boat's in pretty good shape and surveyed out nicely.  
 However, it was left with standing water in the bilges.  The freeze/thaw 
 cycle completely destroyed the cabin sole so I needed to replace it.
 
 The shop just finished installing the new teak  holly marine grade plywood 
 sole and it looks pretty good.  Some gaps are wider than they should be and 
 the subfloor is pieced together poorly but, overall the sole really improves 
 the look of the cabin.
 
 Now I'm looking at the bill - actually, choking on it.  The shop guy and I 
 apparently miscommunicated in a staggeringly significant manner.  I had 
 expected a bill of $4,100 which seemed high but, on the edge of reasonable 
 and, I just couldn't free up enough time to try the job myself. The actual 
 bill is for $9,600I could have freed up a lot more time at $9,600!!
 
 So, I'm trying to find out if I just completely underestimated the work and 
 the cost is reasonable...or, if I'm getting totally and completely hosed.
 
 I would love to hear opinions on this.  By the way, the cost of the wood was 
 about $700.  I don't know the cost of the varnish.
 
 Steve Anderson
 Shadow
 CC 41
 
 
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 at:
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement

[RPH via CnC-List]

Steve, 

I'm sorry if this post is a repeat. I included a couple of photos with my 
original post which are omitted here. 

I too just replaced the cabin sole in my 30 MKII. I'm no professional 
carpenter, so I took my time. Though I thought it was a big job (and one that I 
probably wouldn't want to do again) I think I could be persuaded to do up new 
cabin soles for other listers at $9600 each. In other words, I think $9600 is 
way too high. $4100 sounds about right.

div Original message /divdivFrom: steve via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivDate:12-12-2014  1:00 PM  (GMT-08:00) 
/divdivTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivSubject: Stus-List Cabin Sole 
replacement /divdiv
/divI acquired a 1984 CC 41 earlier this year that had a been on the hard 
for a couple of years.  The boat's in pretty good shape and surveyed out 
nicely.  However, it was left with standing water in the bilges.  The 
freeze/thaw cycle completely destroyed the cabin sole so I needed to replace it.

The shop just finished installing the new teak  holly marine grade plywood 
sole and it looks pretty good.  Some gaps are wider than they should be and the 
subfloor is pieced together poorly but, overall the sole really improves the 
look of the cabin.

Now I'm looking at the bill - actually, choking on it.  The shop guy and I 
apparently miscommunicated in a staggeringly significant manner.  I had 
expected a bill of $4,100 which seemed high but, on the edge of reasonable and, 
I just couldn't free up enough time to try the job myself. The actual bill is 
for $9,600I could have freed up a lot more time at $9,600!!

So, I'm trying to find out if I just completely underestimated the work and the 
cost is reasonable...or, if I'm getting totally and completely hosed.

I would love to hear opinions on this.  By the way, the cost of the wood was 
about $700.  I don't know the cost of the varnish.

Steve Anderson
Shadow
CC 41


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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

From a procedural point of view I believe the contractor has an inescapable
responsibility to inform a client of deliverables, costs and risks in a plainly
worded contract. Unless you have given clear carte blanc ro proceed with the
job the contractor has a further responsibility to advise you of issues that
would prevent the contract to be completed as awarded.

Good advise from Bill Walker.

Michael Brown
Windburn
CC 30-1


Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2014 16:55:34 -0500 
From: =?utf-8?B?d3dhZGpvdXJuQGFvbC5jb20=?= wwadjo...@aol.com 
To: =?utf-8?B?RGFuIFV0aW5za2UgdmlhIENuQy1MaXN0?= 
     cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement 
Message-ID: 
     mailman.615.1418425221.16668.cnc-list_cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 
 
I replaced my cabin sole on my 36 with European grade teak and holly plywood 
last winter. Did work myself.  Used old for patterns, did work 425 miles from 
boat and all fit like a glove.   
Paid about 280 a sheet for ply, pick up at distributor.   Needed two sheets.   
Applied epoxy to bottom and sides of all.   
9 coats varnish, sand between every other coat.   
I estimate 10-!5 hours fabrication, 10-15  hours varnish.  Two quarts varnish.  
The 36 has a lot of floor compared even to a 34.  Five separate pieces.   
This is a ridiculous amount that they want.  I wouldn't pay a penny over the 
yard estimate without really good reason.  Call your lawyer. 
Bill Walker 
Retired Judge and Lawyer 
Evening Star 
CnC 36  
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement

[davidrisch75 via CnC-List]

Agreed. But my experience of boat yard bills is that are at least 2x the 
estimate. Sucks.   But it is.my reality.  I I abide by it and it keeps my out 
of trouble.


David F. Risch.

Please excuse brevity and possible typos...sent from my mobile device.

div Original message /divdivFrom: Michael Brown via 
CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivDate:12/12/2014  8:13 PM  
(GMT-05:00) /divdivTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivSubject: Re: 
Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement /divdiv
/div
From a procedural point of view I believe the contractor has an inescapable
responsibility to inform a client of deliverables, costs and risks in a plainly
worded contract. Unless you have given clear carte blanc ro proceed with the
job the contractor has a further responsibility to advise you of issues that
would prevent the contract to be completed as awarded.

Good advise from Bill Walker.

Michael Brown
Windburn
CC 30-1


Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2014 16:55:34 -0500
From: =?utf-8?B?d3dhZGpvdXJuQGFvbC5jb20=?= wwadjo...@aol.com
To: =?utf-8?B?RGFuIFV0aW5za2UgdmlhIENuQy1MaXN0?=
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement
Message-ID:
 mailman.615.1418425221.16668.cnc-list_cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I replaced my cabin sole on my 36 with European grade teak and holly plywood 
last winter. Did work myself.  Used old for patterns, did work 425 miles from 
boat and all fit like a glove.
Paid about 280 a sheet for ply, pick up at distributor.   Needed two sheets.
Applied epoxy to bottom and sides of all.
9 coats varnish, sand between every other coat.
I estimate 10-!5 hours fabrication, 10-15  hours varnish.  Two quarts varnish.
The 36 has a lot of floor compared even to a 34.  Five separate pieces.
This is a ridiculous amount that they want.  I wouldn't pay a penny over the 
yard estimate without really good reason.  Call your lawyer.
Bill Walker
Retired Judge and Lawyer
Evening Star
CnC 36
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

you wrote:

I think I could be persuaded to do up new cabin soles for other listers at 
$9600 each. In other words, I think $9600 is way too high. $4100 sounds about 
right.


Roger that.  Heck, I'll fly up on my own dime... but you'd have to put 
me up in the spare bedroom.  And I smoke and drink and swear a lot.  
However, I'm really good with children -- just tonight there was a 
bonfire on the beach and someone contributed a small wooden child's 
chair.  I went in search of a child to lash down to the chair before the 
fire caught.


(Ummm, VBG)

Wal

--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Stus-List Cabin Sole

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Any recommendations for refinishing teak and holly cabin sole.   Jerry. CC 27 
V JJ 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Aug 12, 2014, at 12:16 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Different chemical.
  
 Short chemistry lesson:
  
 Methyl hydrate is an old name for methanol, which is a chemical compound 
 (molecule) consisting of one carbon, one oxygen, and four hydrogen atoms. 
 Ethanol, the alcohol we love to drink, has two carbon, one oxygen, and 6 
 hydrogen atoms in each molecule. In general, a hydrocarbon is a compound made 
 up of just carbon and hydrogen atoms. If you substitute an oxygen atom which 
 is also linked to a hydrogen atom for one of the hydrogen atoms in a 
 hydrocarbon molecule, you then have an alcohol. The -OH is know as a hydroxyl 
 group, and when attached to a hydrocarbon to form an alcohol, is responsible 
 for most of the resultant compound's chemical activity. Most but not all. 
 That is why the various alcohols are similar but different, and particularly 
 different in how toxic they are to humans.
  
 Dwight might have something to add, but that is it in a nutshell.
  
 Steve Thomas
 CC27 MKIII
 - Original Message -
 From: JOHN D IRVIN via CnC-List
 To: Marek Dziedzic ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2014 11:34 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Alcohol stove
 
 How is methyl hydrate different?
 
 
 On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 11:04:41 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 
 My experience is that 95.6% is the most what you can obtain commercially (or 
 from any kind of distillation). You can get further only with molecular 
 sieves or by removing the remaining water using benzene or some other 
 substances.
  
 The best (for drinking, if you are so inclined) is this one: 
 http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/sakemitsui/item/vod-0007/ (btw. the web 
 page says incorrectly 96 degrees, it is 96%). In Canada, you can get it in 
 Quebec as Global Alcool, but it is “only” 94%.
  
 However, I would not use it in a stove, as it would not be overly cost 
 effective. It has great applications for mixing drinks, though.
  
 Marek
  
  
 From: dwight
 Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2014 10:06 AM
 To: 'Marek Dziedzic' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: RE: Stus-List Alcohol stove
  
 Here is an article on ethanol versus methanol as a fuel.  This article 
 concludes that ethanol is the more efficient fuel.
  
 http://vincent02pd2011.wikispaces.com/Methanol+Vs+Ethanol+Fuel+Lab
  
 and this article says that ethanol produces a higher flame temperature.
  
 http://classroom.synonym.com/burns-hotter-ethanol-methanol-7848.html
  
 Ethanol is hygroscopic and will absorb up to 5% moisture from the atmosphere. 
  It is difficult to obtain and store 100% pure ethanol.
  
 Many chemicals can be used to “denature” ethanol, like methanol, acetone, 
 benzene, isobutyl ketone and most of these chemicals will make the denatured 
 ethanol poisonous , bad tasting, bad smelling or nauseating in order to 
 discourage human consumption
  
  
  
 Dwight Veinot
 CC 35MKII, Alianna
 Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
  
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
 Dziedzic via CnC-List
 Sent: August 12, 2014 9:12 AM
 To: Stevan Plavsa ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Alcohol stove
  
 Steve,
  
 try other marine stores. In Ottawa , The Chandlery, sells Capt. Phab 4l for 
 $21.50 (or $20 US) 
 (http://www.thechandleryonline.com/product_info.php?products_id=3331). I 
 think they would ship it, unless there is some funny restriction. They ship 
 to the US , as well.
  
 Marine Outfitters out of Kingston carry it, too.
  
 Btw. this is what I use in my stove and it burns extremely clean.
  
 Marek
  
 From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday, August 11, 2014 10:36 PM
 To: Rick Brass ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Alcohol stove
  
 I found it hard to source denatured alcohol here in Toronto . I found it at 
 this place finally:
 http://www.sculpturesupply.com/index.php
  
 I paid something less than $25 for a 4 litre jug. Much better deal than the 
 stuff they sell at west marine.
  
 Steve
 Suhana, CC 32
 Toronto
  
 On Mon, Aug 11, 2014 at 4:01 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 Denatured alcohol is all I've ever used in the stove on the 38 or the Origo 
 stove on the 25. About once a year I go to Lowes and buy a gallon can.
  
 And one of these days I'll finally get around to installing the new propane 
 stove I bought for the 38 a couple of years ago. I'm told it is easier to 
 find propane than denatured alcohol when you are in the Bahamas or the 
 Caribbean .
  
 Rick Brass
 
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Aug 11, 2014, at 10:36, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 This my first go-around with alcohol stoves. Seems to work very nicely. 
 Cleaned it up filled it and brewed a big pot of coffee in no time. Is there 
 any reason not to use plain old 

Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

[Ronald B. Frerker]

OK I give, what's the name of the song?RonWild Cheri

--- On Sun, 2/3/13, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote:

From: Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Sunday, February 3, 2013, 4:54 PM

I wrote:
 But, really, so what.  There is no perfect finish.  It's like boats, anchors, 
 ground tackle, brightwork...  There is no right answer, just the answer that 
 works for you and meets your needs. 

And since it's winter, I should have mentioned that it's also like women, 
horses, and money...  So here's an excerpt from a great song:


He was an old-time cowboy,
don't you understand
his eyes were sharp as razor blades his face was leather tan
his toes were pointed inward from a-hangin' on a horse
he was an old philosopher, of course.

He was so thin i swear you could have used him for a whip
he had to drink a beer to keep his britches on his hips
i knew i had to ask him about the mysteries of life

he spit between his boots
and he replied

it's faster horses, younger women, older whiskey, and more money

snip



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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

[Martin DeYoung]

it's faster horses, younger women,...

I heard its younger horses and faster women.  Whiskey and money stay the same 
in either equation.

Martin

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Wally Bryant
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 2:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

I wrote:
 But, really, so what.  There is no perfect finish.  It's like boats, 
 anchors, ground tackle, brightwork...  There is no right answer, just 
 the answer that works for you and meets your needs. 

And since it's winter, I should have mentioned that it's also like 
women, horses, and money...  So here's an excerpt from a great song:


He was an old-time cowboy,
don't you understand
his eyes were sharp as razor blades his face was leather tan
his toes were pointed inward from a-hangin' on a horse
he was an old philosopher, of course.

He was so thin i swear you could have used him for a whip
he had to drink a beer to keep his britches on his hips
i knew i had to ask him about the mysteries of life

he spit between his boots
and he replied

it's faster horses, younger women, older whiskey, and more money

snip



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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

[Wally Bryant]

Andrew wrote:

Weren't there some here who really liked polyurethane for floorboards?


Well, that might be me.   I probably have the most abused cabin sole 
imaginable.


I refinished it the first time in 2002, because I had it out for other 
reasons.  I used Interlux 2 part polyurethane.  It was great, and held 
up very well. 
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/cabinsole/cabsol.htm It was 
not slippery, as far as I could tell.  At least, I never slipped.  I 
actually tried to slip one night, and dumped some water on it and tried 
to skate from the galley to the V-berth.  That's probably the only time 
I fell down.  VBG


I quickly redid it in 2009.  It wasn't the fault of the finish, it was 
due to the fact that I'd spent the interim years refitting the boat, 
dropping dozens of wrenches on the sole and having the entire interior 
awash with fiberglass dust for weeks on a few occasions. Fiberglass dust 
will scuff the shine off any finish.  Anyway... 
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/cabinsole/2009/index.htm


So since 2009 I've been abusing it 24x7x365.  It's still mostly shiny.  
I've p*ssed on it, f*'d on it, puked on it, slept on it, but still have 
never slipped on it.


But, really, so what.  There is no perfect finish.  It's like boats, 
anchors, ground tackle, brightwork...  There is no right answer, just 
the answer that works for you and meets your needs.


Wal



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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

[Wally Bryant]

I wrote:
But, really, so what.  There is no perfect finish.  It's like boats, 
anchors, ground tackle, brightwork...  There is no right answer, just 
the answer that works for you and meets your needs. 


And since it's winter, I should have mentioned that it's also like 
women, horses, and money...  So here's an excerpt from a great song:



He was an old-time cowboy,
don't you understand
his eyes were sharp as razor blades his face was leather tan
his toes were pointed inward from a-hangin' on a horse
he was an old philosopher, of course.

He was so thin i swear you could have used him for a whip
he had to drink a beer to keep his britches on his hips
i knew i had to ask him about the mysteries of life

he spit between his boots
and he replied

it's faster horses, younger women, older whiskey, and more money

snip



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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

[Curtis]

Did my soles in Laminate flooring from Lowe's  Looks great and its water
proof. I will get back with ya id 5 years to let you know about
the longevity of the product.

On Sun, Feb 3, 2013 at 5:54 PM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote:

 I wrote:

 But, really, so what.  There is no perfect finish.  It's like boats,
 anchors, ground tackle, brightwork...  There is no right answer, just the
 answer that works for you and meets your needs.


 And since it's winter, I should have mentioned that it's also like women,
 horses, and money...  So here's an excerpt from a great song:


 He was an old-time cowboy,
 don't you understand
 his eyes were sharp as razor blades his face was leather tan
 his toes were pointed inward from a-hangin' on a horse
 he was an old philosopher, of course.

 He was so thin i swear you could have used him for a whip
 he had to drink a beer to keep his britches on his hips
 i knew i had to ask him about the mysteries of life

 he spit between his boots
 and he replied

 it's faster horses, younger women, older whiskey, and more money

 snip



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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

[Chuck S]

Ultimate Sole was a great product. I used it and would buy more. Great shiny 
finish and almost non-slip. Made to be applied by DIY with foam brushes. Shame 
someone didn't grab the business. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 CC 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Friday, February 1, 2013 2:39:05 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish 


Andy 
There was a product called 'Ultimate Sole' that did a great job it is/was 
shiny but not slippery, even when wet. I have heard that it has been 
discontinued but I bet there a few quarts in someone's inventory 
somewhere..worth a try to try and find a quart. 

I put 5 coats of it on the cabin sole 6 years ago and it still looks good. 

Bob Abbott 
AZURA 
CC 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 



On 2013/02/01 3:15 PM, Andrew Burton wrote: 


Weren't there some here who really liked polyurethane for floorboards? I'd love 
to see some pics and get some input. I have mine sealed and am trying to decide 
whether to go that route or stick with varnish, which is what I know, but will 
take many coats to fill the grain and get the finish I want. 
By the way, I am a big fan of gloss finish on the floorboards. Yes they are 
more slippery than non-skid or unfinished boards, but I'm not considering those 
options... and it's not like our boats have acres of cabin sole on which to 
achieve a decent velocity. And gloss sure is pretty! 
cheers 
Andy 
CC 40 
Peregrine 


On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 9:16 AM, Bill Connon  billcon...@navigue.com  wrote: 

blockquote


Joel Aronson wrote: 

blockquote
I'm applying epoxy to the topside of the sole using West 105 and 207. 
I added a couple before/after pictures to facebook.com/theoffice35 
under the photo timeline. Next week I'll start applying Cetol to as 
many board as I can fit into my breakfast rom at one time. 

Joel 
Sent from my iPad 

___ 
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album 
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com 



Joel, 

I bought my 36 in 1995. The first year at layup, I removed the boards and made 
temporary ones out of 1/2presswood. I store the teak and holly in the basement 
until after the new year. The undersides get a good check up for damage from 
water/humidity from the bilge. Bottom and edges are kept well sealed. On the 
topside I give a light sanding and then a thin coat of Minwax - Helmsman - Spar 
Urethane - Clear Gloss. The result is a hard, shiny finish which is not 
slippery when wet. Floor finish is a matter of taste but I get a lot of 
compliments over the appearance of my floorboards. 

Bill 
Caprice 1 
CC 36 - 1978 



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/blockquote



-- 
Andrew Burton 
61 W Narragansett Ave 
Newport, RI 
USA 02840 
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
phone +401 965 5260 

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CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
/blockquote


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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

[Pat Nevitt]

The biggest disadvantage to varnish is that it gets slippery when wet.  How
do you keep it from doing that?  Additionally, should you ever have to
remove it in the future, varnish is a major pain.  I have refinished a lot
of furniture over the years and varnish was always the worst to remove.

On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 5:03 AM, Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca wrote:

 I find that varnish has a classic look that Cetol products cannot match.
 UV protection for a cabin sole is not an issue. It's all personal
 preference:)

 Rich Knowles
 Indigo. LF38
 Halifax

 On 2013-01-31, at 22:36, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote:

 Rich,

 I want a clear finish.  My understanding is that with the epoxy the
 only real purpose of the varnish is to provide UV protection.  Am I
 missing something?

 Joel
 35/3
 Annapolis
 Sent from my iPad

 On Jan 31, 2013, at 9:32 PM, Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca wrote:

  Joel: Do you have a reason for using Cetol rather than a good quality
 varnish such as Epiphanes?
 
  Rich Knowles
  Indigo. LF38
  Halifax
 
  On 2013-01-31, at 20:59, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  I'm applying epoxy to the topside of the sole using West 105 and 207.
  I added a couple before/after pictures to facebook.com/theoffice35
  under the photo timeline.  Next week I'll start applying Cetol to as
  many board as I can fit into my breakfast rom at one time.
 
  Joel
  Sent from my iPad
 
  ___
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  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
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 ___
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 ___
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

[Joel Aronson]

I'll try it on a scrap.

Joel Aronson


On Jan 31, 2013, at 11:36 PM, Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com wrote:

Joel,

Cetol will take a lng time to completely dry.  I used it on a piece of
holly teak sole once.  4 days later I installed the piece and stepped on
it.  Left a permanent shoeprint.  Applied another coat and put a heater in
the boat for a week.  Still felt soft.  It finally dried enough so shoes
didn't mark it.

Your experience may vary.

I'd opt for varnish.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

  --
*From:* Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Sent:* Thursday, January 31, 2013 7:36 PM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

Rich,

I want a clear finish.  My understanding is that with the epoxy the
only real purpose of the varnish is to provide UV protection.  Am I
missing something?

Joel
35/3
Annapolis
Sent from my iPad

On Jan 31, 2013, at 9:32 PM, Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca wrote:

 Joel: Do you have a reason for using Cetol rather than a good quality
varnish such as Epiphanes?

 Rich Knowles
 Indigo. LF38
 Halifax

 On 2013-01-31, at 20:59, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'm applying epoxy to the topside of the sole using West 105 and 207.
 I added a couple before/after pictures to facebook.com/theoffice35
 under the photo timeline.  Next week I'll start applying Cetol to as
 many board as I can fit into my breakfast rom at one time.

 Joel
 Sent from my iPad

 ___
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 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 ___
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 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

[Rich Knowles]

Just about every gloss finish gets slippery when wet. I don't find varnish any 
different and it is not slippery when dry. It sure looks better than most other 
finishes from my point if view and, if it's tough to remove, I'd say that is a 
sign of durability, a good thing. Chemical stripping has always worked well for 
me and as they are flat surfaces, cabin soles are relatively easy to refinish. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-02-01, at 7:41, Pat Nevitt pnev...@gmail.com wrote:

The biggest disadvantage to varnish is that it gets slippery when wet.  How do 
you keep it from doing that?  Additionally, should you ever have to remove it 
in the future, varnish is a major pain.  I have refinished a lot of furniture 
over the years and varnish was always the worst to remove.

On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 5:03 AM, Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca wrote:
 I find that varnish has a classic look that Cetol products cannot match. UV 
 protection for a cabin sole is not an issue. It's all personal preference:)
 
 Rich Knowles
 Indigo. LF38
 Halifax
 
 On 2013-01-31, at 22:36, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Rich,
 
 I want a clear finish.  My understanding is that with the epoxy the
 only real purpose of the varnish is to provide UV protection.  Am I
 missing something?
 
 Joel
 35/3
 Annapolis
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Jan 31, 2013, at 9:32 PM, Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca wrote:
 
  Joel: Do you have a reason for using Cetol rather than a good quality 
  varnish such as Epiphanes?
 
  Rich Knowles
  Indigo. LF38
  Halifax
 
  On 2013-01-31, at 20:59, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  I'm applying epoxy to the topside of the sole using West 105 and 207.
  I added a couple before/after pictures to facebook.com/theoffice35
  under the photo timeline.  Next week I'll start applying Cetol to as
  many board as I can fit into my breakfast rom at one time.
 
  Joel
  Sent from my iPad
 
  ___
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  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
  ___
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  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

[dwight veinot]

Joel

 

I redid the cabin sole on Alianna about 6 years ago.  It is teak and holy
and it is glued down.

 

I removed the old finish with chemical (methylene chloride gel) stripper and
a simple scraper.  Then a very light sanding with 220 grit, clean the dust
finishing with a solvent wetted rag.

 

I applied only 1 coat of Sikkens cetol marine protective translucent finish
for boats with a brush and I did the whole thing at once exiting the boat
from the hatch in the v berth.

 

I have done nothing more since then.  The sole has been wet from taking
showers and from the normal amount of water that gets in on your gear.

 

If I get real ambitious I may give it a light sanding and another coat
before launch this year but it could and probably will do without that.

 

I did not want a shiny finish and I did not get a glass like look.I got more
of a natural oiled wood look.

 

I am pleased with the job, much better than before I did it.  Some like
shiny, everyone to their own I guess.

 

I do have a problem, not from the refinish but because on my 35 MKII waters
seems to get under the sole from somewhere and accumulate right at a
junction in the sole on the starboard side forward of the nav table.  That
has caused a darkened and slightly damaged (separated laminate) of a few
square inches in that spot only and is not related to the coating that I
used.  It is not yet worth the effort or cost of redoing as far as I am
concerned.  I will try to some in situ repair if I do the recoat.

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: February 1, 2013 7:57 AM
To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

 

I'll try it on a scrap. 

Joel Aronson

 


On Jan 31, 2013, at 11:36 PM, Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com wrote:

Joel,

 

Cetol will take a lng time to completely dry.  I used it on a piece of
holly teak sole once.  4 days later I installed the piece and stepped on it.
Left a permanent shoeprint.  Applied another coat and put a heater in the
boat for a week.  Still felt soft.  It finally dried enough so shoes didn't
mark it.

 

Your experience may vary.

 

I'd opt for varnish.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA


  _  


From: Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2013 7:36 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish


Rich,

I want a clear finish.  My understanding is that with the epoxy the
only real purpose of the varnish is to provide UV protection.  Am I
missing something?

Joel
35/3
Annapolis
Sent from my iPad

On Jan 31, 2013, at 9:32 PM, Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca wrote:

 Joel: Do you have a reason for using Cetol rather than a good quality
varnish such as Epiphanes?

 Rich Knowles
 Indigo. LF38
 Halifax

 On 2013-01-31, at 20:59, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'm applying epoxy to the topside of the sole using West 105 and 207.
 I added a couple before/after pictures to facebook.com/theoffice35
 under the photo timeline.  Next week I'll start applying Cetol to as
 many board as I can fit into my breakfast rom at one time.

 Joel
 Sent from my iPad

 ___
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 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2238 / Virus Database: 2639/5570 - Release Date: 01/31/13

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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

[Bill Connon]

Joel Aronson wrote:

I'm applying epoxy to the topside of the sole using West 105 and 207.
I added a couple before/after pictures to facebook.com/theoffice35
under the photo timeline.  Next week I'll start applying Cetol to as
many board as I can fit into my breakfast rom at one time.

Joel
Sent from my iPad

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CnC-List@cnc-list.com


Joel,

I bought my 36 in 1995. The first year at layup, I removed the boards 
and made temporary ones out of 1/2presswood. I store the teak and holly 
in the basement until after the new year. The undersides get a good 
check up for damage from water/humidity from the bilge. Bottom and edges 
are kept well sealed. On the topside I give a light sanding and then a 
thin coat of  Minwax - Helmsman - Spar Urethane - Clear Gloss. The 
result is a hard, shiny finish which is not slippery when wet. Floor 
finish is a matter of taste but I get a lot of compliments over the 
appearance of my floorboards.


Bill
Caprice 1
CC 36 - 1978

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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

[Andrew Burton]

Weren't there some here who really liked polyurethane for floorboards? I'd
love to see some pics and get some input. I have mine sealed and am trying
to decide whether to go that route or stick with varnish, which is what I
know, but will take many coats to fill the grain and get the finish I want.
By the way, I am a big fan of gloss finish on the floorboards. Yes they are
more slippery than non-skid or unfinished boards, but I'm not considering
those options... and it's not like our boats have acres of cabin sole on
which to achieve a decent velocity. And gloss sure is pretty!
cheers
Andy
CC 40
Peregrine

On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 9:16 AM, Bill Connon billcon...@navigue.com wrote:

 Joel Aronson wrote:

 I'm applying epoxy to the topside of the sole using West 105 and 207.
 I added a couple before/after pictures to facebook.com/theoffice35
 under the photo timeline.  Next week I'll start applying Cetol to as
 many board as I can fit into my breakfast rom at one time.

 Joel
 Sent from my iPad

 __**_
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com

  Joel,

 I bought my 36 in 1995. The first year at layup, I removed the boards and
 made temporary ones out of 1/2presswood. I store the teak and holly in the
 basement until after the new year. The undersides get a good check up for
 damage from water/humidity from the bilge. Bottom and edges are kept well
 sealed. On the topside I give a light sanding and then a thin coat of
  Minwax - Helmsman - Spar Urethane - Clear Gloss. The result is a hard,
 shiny finish which is not slippery when wet. Floor finish is a matter of
 taste but I get a lot of compliments over the appearance of my floorboards.

 Bill
 Caprice 1
 CC 36 - 1978


 __**_
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com




-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

[dwight veinot]

Make it too pretty and you and everyone else will have to take their shoes
off to enter

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton
Sent: February 1, 2013 3:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

 

Weren't there some here who really liked polyurethane for floorboards? I'd
love to see some pics and get some input. I have mine sealed and am trying
to decide whether to go that route or stick with varnish, which is what I
know, but will take many coats to fill the grain and get the finish I want. 
By the way, I am a big fan of gloss finish on the floorboards. Yes they are
more slippery than non-skid or unfinished boards, but I'm not considering
those options... and it's not like our boats have acres of cabin sole on
which to achieve a decent velocity. And gloss sure is pretty!
cheers
Andy
CC 40 
Peregrine

On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 9:16 AM, Bill Connon billcon...@navigue.com wrote:

Joel Aronson wrote:

I'm applying epoxy to the topside of the sole using West 105 and 207.
I added a couple before/after pictures to facebook.com/theoffice35
under the photo timeline.  Next week I'll start applying Cetol to as
many board as I can fit into my breakfast rom at one time.

Joel
Sent from my iPad

___
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Joel,

I bought my 36 in 1995. The first year at layup, I removed the boards and
made temporary ones out of 1/2presswood. I store the teak and holly in the
basement until after the new year. The undersides get a good check up for
damage from water/humidity from the bilge. Bottom and edges are kept well
sealed. On the topside I give a light sanding and then a thin coat of
Minwax - Helmsman - Spar Urethane - Clear Gloss. The result is a hard, shiny
finish which is not slippery when wet. Floor finish is a matter of taste but
I get a lot of compliments over the appearance of my floorboards.

Bill
Caprice 1
CC 36 - 1978



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-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260 

  _  

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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

[Joel Aronson]

Dwight,

The real problem is that the cushions are going to look even more shabby
once the sole is done.  I don't sew and new cushions are not in my budget.

Joel
35/3
The Office
Annapolis


On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 2:21 PM, dwight veinot
dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.cawrote:

 ** ** ** ** ** ** **

 Make it too pretty and you and everyone else will have to take their shoes
 off to enter

 ** **

 Dwight Veinot

 CC 35 MKII, Alianna

 Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
   --

 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Andrew
 Burton
 *Sent:* February 1, 2013 3:15 PM
 *To:* **cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 **
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish
 

  ** **

 Weren't there some here who really liked polyurethane for floorboards? I'd
 love to see some pics and get some input. I have mine sealed and am trying
 to decide whether to go that route or stick with varnish, which is what I
 know, but will take many coats to fill the grain and get the finish I want.
 By the way, I am a big fan of gloss finish on the floorboards. Yes they
 are more slippery than non-skid or unfinished boards, but I'm not
 considering those options... and it's not like our boats have acres of
 cabin sole on which to achieve a decent velocity. And gloss sure is pretty!
 cheers
 Andy
 CC 40
 Peregrine

  On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 9:16 AM, Bill Connon billcon...@navigue.com
 wrote:

 Joel Aronson wrote:

 I'm applying epoxy to the topside of the sole using West 105 and 207.
 I added a couple before/after pictures to facebook.com/theoffice35
 under the photo timeline.  Next week I'll start applying Cetol to as
 many board as I can fit into my breakfast rom at one time.

 Joel
 Sent from my iPad

 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 Joel,

 I bought my 36 in 1995. The first year at layup, I removed the boards and
 made temporary ones out of 1/2presswood. I store the teak and holly in the
 basement until after the new year. The undersides get a good check up for
 damage from water/humidity from the bilge. Bottom and edges are kept well
 sealed. On the topside I give a light sanding and then a thin coat of
  Minwax - Helmsman - Spar Urethane - Clear Gloss. The result is a hard,
 shiny finish which is not slippery when wet. Floor finish is a matter of
 taste but I get a lot of compliments over the appearance of my floorboards.

 Bill
 Caprice 1
 CC 36 - 1978



 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com




 --
 Andrew Burton
 61 W Narragansett Ave
 Newport**, **RI
 USA 02840
 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
 phone  +401 965 5260 
  --

 No virus found in this message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 2012.0.2238 / Virus Database: 2639/5574 - Release Date: 02/01/13*
 ***


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-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

[Robert Abbott]

Dwight says mine looks pretty but he doesn't take his shoes off when he 
goes down below.


Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2013/02/01 3:21 PM, dwight veinot wrote:


Make it too pretty and you and everyone else will have to take their 
shoes off to enter


Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS



*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Andrew Burton

*Sent:* February 1, 2013 3:15 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

Weren't there some here who really liked polyurethane for floorboards? 
I'd love to see some pics and get some input. I have mine sealed and 
am trying to decide whether to go that route or stick with varnish, 
which is what I know, but will take many coats to fill the grain and 
get the finish I want.
By the way, I am a big fan of gloss finish on the floorboards. Yes 
they are more slippery than non-skid or unfinished boards, but I'm not 
considering those options... and it's not like our boats have acres of 
cabin sole on which to achieve a decent velocity. And gloss sure is 
pretty!

cheers
Andy
CC 40
Peregrine




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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

[Andrew Burton]

Well, of course. You don't have the kind of friend who would wear shoes
down below, do you?! : )
Realistically, I plan on having to put a coat on each off season as the dog
will leave scratches from her paws.
Andy
CC 40
Peregrine

On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 2:21 PM, dwight veinot
dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.cawrote:

 ** ** ** ** ** ** **

 Make it too pretty and you and everyone else will have to take their shoes
 off to enter

 ** **

 Dwight Veinot

 CC 35 MKII, Alianna

 Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
   --

 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Andrew
 Burton
 *Sent:* February 1, 2013 3:15 PM
 *To:* **cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 **
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish
 

  ** **

 Weren't there some here who really liked polyurethane for floorboards? I'd
 love to see some pics and get some input. I have mine sealed and am trying
 to decide whether to go that route or stick with varnish, which is what I
 know, but will take many coats to fill the grain and get the finish I want.
 By the way, I am a big fan of gloss finish on the floorboards. Yes they
 are more slippery than non-skid or unfinished boards, but I'm not
 considering those options... and it's not like our boats have acres of
 cabin sole on which to achieve a decent velocity. And gloss sure is pretty!
 cheers
 Andy
 CC 40
 Peregrine

  On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 9:16 AM, Bill Connon billcon...@navigue.com
 wrote:

 Joel Aronson wrote:

 I'm applying epoxy to the topside of the sole using West 105 and 207.
 I added a couple before/after pictures to facebook.com/theoffice35
 under the photo timeline.  Next week I'll start applying Cetol to as
 many board as I can fit into my breakfast rom at one time.

 Joel
 Sent from my iPad

 ___
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 Joel,

 I bought my 36 in 1995. The first year at layup, I removed the boards and
 made temporary ones out of 1/2presswood. I store the teak and holly in the
 basement until after the new year. The undersides get a good check up for
 damage from water/humidity from the bilge. Bottom and edges are kept well
 sealed. On the topside I give a light sanding and then a thin coat of
  Minwax - Helmsman - Spar Urethane - Clear Gloss. The result is a hard,
 shiny finish which is not slippery when wet. Floor finish is a matter of
 taste but I get a lot of compliments over the appearance of my floorboards.

 Bill
 Caprice 1
 CC 36 - 1978



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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com




 --
 Andrew Burton
 61 W Narragansett Ave
 Newport**, **RI
 USA 02840
 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
 phone  +401 965 5260 
  --

 No virus found in this message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 2012.0.2238 / Virus Database: 2639/5574 - Release Date: 02/01/13*
 ***


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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com




-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

[dwight veinot]

That says it all, we got the same problem with hardwood floors in the house
but we love the dog!!!

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton
Sent: February 1, 2013 3:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

 

Well, of course. You don't have the kind of friend who would wear shoes down
below, do you?! : )
Realistically, I plan on having to put a coat on each off season as the dog
will leave scratches from her paws. 
Andy
CC 40 
Peregrine

On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 2:21 PM, dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca
wrote:

Make it too pretty and you and everyone else will have to take their shoes
off to enter

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton
Sent: February 1, 2013 3:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

 

Weren't there some here who really liked polyurethane for floorboards? I'd
love to see some pics and get some input. I have mine sealed and am trying
to decide whether to go that route or stick with varnish, which is what I
know, but will take many coats to fill the grain and get the finish I want. 

By the way, I am a big fan of gloss finish on the floorboards. Yes they are
more slippery than non-skid or unfinished boards, but I'm not considering
those options... and it's not like our boats have acres of cabin sole on
which to achieve a decent velocity. And gloss sure is pretty!
cheers
Andy
CC 40 
Peregrine

On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 9:16 AM, Bill Connon billcon...@navigue.com wrote:

Joel Aronson wrote:

I'm applying epoxy to the topside of the sole using West 105 and 207.
I added a couple before/after pictures to facebook.com/theoffice35
under the photo timeline.  Next week I'll start applying Cetol to as
many board as I can fit into my breakfast rom at one time.

Joel
Sent from my iPad

___
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Joel,

I bought my 36 in 1995. The first year at layup, I removed the boards and
made temporary ones out of 1/2presswood. I store the teak and holly in the
basement until after the new year. The undersides get a good check up for
damage from water/humidity from the bilge. Bottom and edges are kept well
sealed. On the topside I give a light sanding and then a thin coat of
Minwax - Helmsman - Spar Urethane - Clear Gloss. The result is a hard, shiny
finish which is not slippery when wet. Floor finish is a matter of taste but
I get a lot of compliments over the appearance of my floorboards.

Bill
Caprice 1
CC 36 - 1978



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CnC-List@cnc-list.com




-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com

Version: 2012.0.2238 / Virus Database: 2639/5574 - Release Date: 02/01/13


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-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2238 / Virus Database: 2639/5574 - Release Date: 02/01/13

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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

[dwight veinot]

Very true, I know Bob to be very meticulous about the seaworthiness,
function and appearance of his boat...he uses it a lot but doesn't go too
far from home port.  I have enjoyed time on board with him and I can attest
to the virtues of ultimate sole.  It's hard to accept that a product that
is so good for those who want shine without slip might have been
discontinued.  Of course you might be in for doing 5 coats.see what I mean,
he is meticulous!!!  He also lifted the sole and sealed the underside and
edges with epoxy.  Bullet proof!!!

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

  _  

From: Robert Abbott [mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca] 
Sent: February 1, 2013 3:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

 

Dwight says mine looks pretty but he doesn't take his shoes off when he goes
down below.

Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2013/02/01 3:21 PM, dwight veinot wrote:

Make it too pretty and you and everyone else will have to take their shoes
off to enter

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS


  _  


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton
Sent: February 1, 2013 3:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

 

Weren't there some here who really liked polyurethane for floorboards? I'd
love to see some pics and get some input. I have mine sealed and am trying
to decide whether to go that route or stick with varnish, which is what I
know, but will take many coats to fill the grain and get the finish I want. 
By the way, I am a big fan of gloss finish on the floorboards. Yes they are
more slippery than non-skid or unfinished boards, but I'm not considering
those options... and it's not like our boats have acres of cabin sole on
which to achieve a decent velocity. And gloss sure is pretty!
cheers
Andy
CC 40 
Peregrine

 

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2238 / Virus Database: 2639/5574 - Release Date: 02/01/13

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