Re: [Drakelist] Drake Enthusiasts and Holidays

[Chuck Grandgent]

Thank you Evan, Merry Xmas to y'all and best wishes for great 2013 !

Just did a 40meter CW QSO with WA8QNN near Cincinnati, by "coincidence" he
was also Drake gear.
Makes for a nice Xmas eve.

73, Chuck, K1OM, north Florida


On Mon, Dec 24, 2012 at 12:16 PM, K9sqg  wrote:

> Fellow Drake Enthusiasts,
>
>  I would like to take this opportunity to say Merry Christmas and Happy
> New Year.  I hope that you will be blessed with good health, happiness, and
> that your Drake dreams will be fulfilled.
>
>  73,
>
>  Evan, K9SQG
>
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Re: [Drakelist] Please, I want out... How can I get removed?

[Chuck Grandgent]

sorry to add to the wasted bandwidth, but it is likely that this is
automated spam.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Tue, Nov 27, 2012 at 11:00 PM, Jim Shorney wrote:

> On Tue, 27 Nov 2012 19:37:37 -0800, centi...@nym.hush.com wrote:
>
> >Yikes!?!?!
>
>
> It is STILL the last link at the end of every message.
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Drakelist] An Apology

[Chuck Grandgent]

Unfortunately, a "word to the wise" is NOT sufficient.
These days it seems no matter what safeguards you employ, you are still at
very real risk of mayhem.

I've been a victim a couple times in the last 6 months or so, I do a search
on Google, click on one of the results, one time, my machine instantly
started shutting down, and on rebooting, complained about one of the
Windoze files, and I ended up having to do a complete reinstall.

When this stuff happens, nothing to apologize about, it's the world we live
in, no matter what "precautions" we  may or may not follow.

   Chuck, K1OM, Alachua, FL



On Thu, Nov 15, 2012 at 7:44 PM, Bob Loving wrote:

> To all who received a bogus email, including this list, my apology. My
> email address list was hacked. That's the last time I will open any email
> in the spam folder regardless of how "legit" it looks. A word to the wise
> is sufficient.
>
> 73,
> Bob K9JU
>
>
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Re: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter?

[Chuck Grandgent]

Everything on my radio bench is plugged into a suitably large power strip
(I run my T4X barefoot).  The wall wart for the fan is plugged into it, as
is the soldering iron.  This has the benefit of ensuring nothing is left on
unintentionally.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Sat, Jan 7, 2012 at 5:33 PM, Michael & Sue Trussell <
mtruss8...@comcast.net> wrote:

> I need to replace my old 30 year old 110 volt fan on my transmitter. I
> know a few of you have used the twelve 12 volt fans and some have used the
> 110 volt version. What I would like to know where I can get power so I
> don’t have to plug the fan in every time I turn the rig on.  I would like
> the fan to come on when I turn on the power  to the transmitter, any
> suggestions?
>
> ** **
>
> Thank you in advance
>
> ** **
>
> Michael J Trussell  KA8ASN
>
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Re: [Drakelist] 6JB6A

[Chuck Grandgent]

I agree.  I'd gotten a matched pair as spares about 14 years ago, I keep
them in one of those wooden boxes dried salted cod comes in, but I haven't
needed them.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Fri, Jan 6, 2012 at 9:21 PM,  wrote:

> Greetings to the list,
> I just had to toss in my 2 cents on the 6JB6A finals.
> One post recently stated that if the tubes are properly cared for.
> 'quick tune ups, slight muffin fan pulling air up out of the cage, always
> dip the plate as a last check'  then the tubes should last many many
> years.
> When I got my first twins over 10 years back I had heard many cautions
> (from non-Drake owners) about how fragile sweep tubes were and how I better
> lay in lots of spare finals.  So spares I got but guess what?  The same
> Sylvania
> finals that came used with the T4XC are still at full output after all
> those years of
> very regular use on CW. So I have run them at around 120w out regularly
> for well over a decade.  Maybe its the muffin fan, maybe I've just been
> lucky,
> but I have to say that they have held up way better than the naysayers
> predicted.
> Sweep tubes are turning out to be more rugged than I am in the long
> run.  Hi !
>   Jim
> N5KY
>
>
>
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[Drakelist] what's with all the increased drakelist traffic

[Chuck Grandgent]

mind you I'm not complaining, but in the last couple days seems like the
list traffic has EXPLODED !

   Chuck, K1OM
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Re: [Drakelist] were all those things from drakelist more of the dangerous spam???they were from "linked in", with a clickon ...

[Chuck Grandgent]

c'mon guys, if it smells like spam, just delete it, you really don't run
any risk of losing anything "valuable".

   Chuck, K1OM

On Mon, Dec 19, 2011 at 9:00 PM, sebdesnCC  wrote:

> Just got 2 of em…
>
> Bud W0HG
>
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Re: [Drakelist] off topic - motor start vs electrolytic caps

[Chuck Grandgent]

All I can add is, rectangular can, maybe 3" x 2".
And I won't tell you what they charged me for it.

I do know they go bad, last year in the outside unit the motor start cap
literally blew up, all its innards spewed and made a mess.  It was maybe 7
years old.  At that time the tech thought it might have been from lightning
and if he were I he would be trying to get the electric company to pay for
it.  But this is Florida, lightning capital of the U.S., so I expect that
kind of stuff.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Tue, May 3, 2011 at 8:26 PM, Nigel Gunn G8IFF/W8IFF wrote:

> It's unpolarised and probably a paper or plastic film dielectric cap.
> Had it gone leaky?
>
>
> On 03-May-11 23:20, Chuck Grandgent wrote:
>
>> I know this is off topic,
>> but I also know someone here will certainly know.
>>
>> Air Conditioner guy was out today for annual maintenance, the air mover
>> had a 15uF motor start cap that he measured at
>> 7uF, so we replaced it.
>>
>> No quarrels with that, but here's what I couldn't understand.
>>
>> I tested it on my cheapo DVM, which I rarely use for cap testing, and the
>> capacitance reading just kept going up and up
>> and up, 20uF, 30uF, 40uF, etc., clearly not right.
>>
>> I grabbed a 22uF electrolytic, and that quickly stabilized on my DVM as
>> 19uF, on the tech's meter (better than mine)
>> 23uF.  So that was believable.
>>
>>
>> Now I really don't know much about motor start caps, but they are
>> "unpolarized", compared to electrolytics ?
>>
>> How to account for its anomalous behavior with my DVM ?
>>
>> Â Â  Chuck, K1OM
>>
>>
>>
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>
> --
> Nigel A. Gunn,  1865 El Camino Drive, Xenia, OH 45385-1115, USA.  tel +1
> 937 825 5032
> Amateur Radio G8IFF W8IFF (was KC8NHF 9H3GN),  e-mail ni...@ngunn.net
>   www  http://www.ngunn.net
> Member of  ARRL, GQRP #11396, QRPARCI #11644, SOC #548,  Flying Pigs QRP
> Club International #385,
>   Dayton ARA #2128, AMSAT-NA LM-1691,  AMSAT-UK 0182, MKARS,  ALC,
> GCARES, XWARN, EAA382.
>
>
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[Drakelist] off topic - motor start vs electrolytic caps

[Chuck Grandgent]

I know this is off topic,
but I also know someone here will certainly know.

Air Conditioner guy was out today for annual maintenance, the air mover had
a 15uF motor start cap that he measured at 7uF, so we replaced it.

No quarrels with that, but here's what I couldn't understand.

I tested it on my cheapo DVM, which I rarely use for cap testing, and the
capacitance reading just kept going up and up and up, 20uF, 30uF, 40uF,
etc., clearly not right.

I grabbed a 22uF electrolytic, and that quickly stabilized on my DVM as
19uF, on the tech's meter (better than mine) 23uF.  So that was believable.

Now I really don't know much about motor start caps, but they are
"unpolarized", compared to electrolytics ?

How to account for its anomalous behavior with my DVM ?

   Chuck, K1OM
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Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit

[Chuck Grandgent]

Exactly.  This is why it used to be that to get your license you really
needed to know some theory. I had to DRAW a Harley or a Colpitts oscillator,
not multiple guess.  12 years old doing Heathkit stuff with my Dad, there
was 250VDC running around, not 6 volts for some transistor.  I learned why
it was NOT a good idea to plug in a transformer from a TV that had been
siting out in the rain.  If you can't read a schematic and use a voltmeter
and apply reasoning skills, then you really shouldn't be doing this upgrade.

I had the same problems with the wire colors, but got beyond the puzzling
and got two AC3's fixed up.  Good project, but unlike a lot of projects,
it's what I call a "zero beers" project.

   Chuck, K1OM


On Fri, Feb 25, 2011 at 10:29 AM, mike bryce  wrote:

> Boys and girls...
>
> Well since I'm getting beat up here, I may as well defend my honor.
>
> The biggest problem with installing the ac4r is the color codes used by
> drake changed over production runs.
>
> Some units use a gray wire, then next a black wire and sometimes a gray
> wire with a white tracer.
>
> the wire that goes to the radio cable carrying the the +800 volts is really
> problematic.
>
> 1. orange
> 2. orange with white tracer
> 3. white with orange tracer
> 4. red
>
>
> now, pick one! I can't write instructions that cover each and every
> deviation of wiring codes, so I try and hit in the middle.
>
> If there is a shortage wire in the kits, I send a notice that you should
> use this color instead of that color.
>
> If you have a supply with the transformer pointing the opposite way, then
> that needs to be addressed.
>
> Ooh, no threads on the transformer? Oops, you can't mount the PCB there.
>
> I'm trying to tell someone that I don't know— if they know what end a
> soldering iron get hot— and trying to installing a  retrofit into a piece of
> gear 40 years old. It's not a simple task.
>
>
>
> The number of phone calls from guys who shouldn't be working with
> electricity scares me. Trying to explain to the guy on the other end how to
> set his simpson 260 up to read voltage. He didn't know!
>
> or the guy that calls on a Sunday night because the bias voltage reads
> backwards. He's upset because the voltage is negative and he can't figure
> out way. A hour long phone call shot in the ass trying to explain that bias
> voltage is negative in reference to ground.
>
> How would you react to that?
>
>
> Most of the time, guys don't read the instructions first, and then start
> cutting away. Then they find out they can't find the black wire from the
> radio cable because it was gray instead.
>
> If anyone would like to sit down and rewrite the instructions, please do
> so! I'll be more than happy to use YOUR instructions.
>
> As far as being in the mood to appreciate feedback, I accept all that I
> get. I accept criticism as well as most people.
>
> If something is wrong, I'll fix it. I just added more instructions and
> installation hints a week ago. If someone tells me that such and such step
> is confusing. I'll be more than happy to fix it. It's just words on a
> computer screen. Tap-tap, they're changed!
>
> But...
>
> Don't send me emails telling me how stupid I am. How your old sergeant knew
> more about drakes than I do. Or how you spent 60 years in the navy and my
> instructions don't meet
> the TMA codes you're use to. OR send me a photos of two AC4s with the guts
> ripped out and you don't understand why one has different wires than the
> other one.
>
> I keep and archive all emails, and I got some that would piss off the pope.
> Really puts you in the mood to appreciate feed back doesn't it? I mean, how
> you would react if you receive an email from someone you've never met and
> they tell you how stupid and F**K up you are and how this and that are all
> wrong in the instructions. How their 12 year old son could do a better job.
>
> Tell me Tom, how you would react to that?
>
>
>
> So, if you don't like the instructions, don't feel I accept and appreciate
> feedback, then sit down, re-wrire the them so they cover every version of
> the drake AC4, every possible deviation, and all possible obstacles. Make
> them crystal clear for everyone on every end of the spectrum. All the old
> navy comm techs, all the new hams, and everyone in between. And send them to
> me. I'll trash the one I did and  be more than happy to include your new
> instructions  in the kits. I accept Microsoft .doc and .docx files.
>
>
> And...
>
> I'll be sure to forward all the emails from people that can't figure out *
> your* instructions.
>
> And...
>
> I'm going to crawl back into the woodwork. This forum is not the place to
> discuss this any further.
>
> mike, wb8vge
>
> Mike, WB8VGE
> SunLight Energy Systems
> The Heathkit Shop
> http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
> J e e p
> o|||o
>
> "If the facts don't fit the theory, change the facts."
>  Albert Einstein
>
>
>
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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 31, Issue 45

[Chuck Grandgent]

What do you mean "non standard AC-4" ?  You mean like an AC-3 ?

I've done two AC-3's, and I did have some puzzlement, had to refer to the
schematic to make sure what I was doing made sense, color coding on some of
the wires was not as expected, etc..  But not THAT difficult.  Heck, if
you're going to muck with 700VDC you better oughta be comfortable with
schematics and test equipment etc.

The "Heathkit" part of the supplier's name refers to the initial kits he
did, which were for HEATHKIT radios, so that's where the name comes from.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Thu, Jan 27, 2011 at 5:58 PM, TC Dailey  wrote:

> Speaking of the AC-4 - Anybody used one of the "upgrade" boards on a NON
> STANDARD AC-4?
>
> Story I get is that there are different versions of them, and the
> "inventor" refuses to supply adequate information on the various versions -
> I got the thing in, but it was no Heathkit - rather an "invent it as you go"
> sort of thing.
>
> Tom - Denver
>
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Re: [Drakelist] Six Meter Options

[Chuck Grandgent]

I had the Hallicrafters SR-46A (seen here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wb5kcm/4731666966/).
Probably not a great rig for DX, but for local ragchews it was fine.

I had the two meter version also.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Fri, Dec 31, 2010 at 2:33 PM, Steve Berg  wrote:
> You might also consider Clegg equipment.  The Clegg 66er is a decent AM rig.
>  The Thor 6 is even better, but be sure to get both the RF box and the power
> supply/modulator.
>
> 73,
>
> Steve WA9JML
>
> On 12/31/2010 12:49 PM, Kevin Nathan wrote:
>>
>> Hi All,
>> First of all, happy New Year to everyone! Thanks for your help and
>> advice throughout the year.
>> Now to my question. I now have a C line station running well and I like
>> it very much. I use it primarily on AM and really like the vintage radio
>> activities. I now have two other AM stations one of which I am going to
>> sell at an upcoming ham fest. I am active on a six meter AM group here
>> and would like to land some sort of vintage six meter station,
>> preferably some sort of transceiver that will work well on true AM. My
>> question is, what did Drake offer along that line? If not Drake, what
>> else might you recommend to me?
>> "Thanks and very 73.
>> Kevin :)
>> Amateur Radio: K7RX
>>
>>
>>
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Re: [Drakelist] Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

[Chuck Grandgent]

Merry Christmas Evan and everyone else !

Still having fun with the Drakes, both using them and working on them.

Couple years ago I got an R4B and stuck the R4A on the shelf, but for
a Saturday project tried to fire up the R4A but ran into some
problems, but it's a fun project figuring out what happened and no
hurry on the project.

A very prosperous and healthy 2011 to everyone here !

   Chuck, K1OM, Alachua FL

On Wed, Dec 22, 2010 at 7:46 PM, K9sqg  wrote:
> To all the Drake enthusiasts I'd like to wish you all a Merry Christmas and
> Happy New Year.  May you be blessed with health and happiness this season
> and always.  May the help, information, and assistance for Drake gear
> continue into 2011.
> 73,
> Evan, K9SQG
>
>
>
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Re: [Drakelist] R4A no BFO

[Chuck Grandgent]

Good to hear from you Garey !

As I said to Richard, I'm going to put the schematic under my pillow tonite
and meditate on it.  Your clues will be a term in the equation.

Again, signal strengths seem PLENTY strong, I can hear plenty loud CW sigs,
BFO just quite not breaking into oscillation, at least in the right
neighborhood, and those voltages seem a mystery.

Also, to eliminate my DVM as a suspect, I checked some voltages in my
(happy) R4B, and they seem spot on, so I'm really pretty confident in the
DVM, at least for the "high' voltages.

Will keep y'all posted !

   Chuck, K1OM

On Mon, Dec 20, 2010 at 8:49 PM, Garey Barrell  wrote:

> Chuck -
>
> I'm away from home, but a couple of observations.  Higher than expected
> plate voltages usually mean the stage is not drawing the expected current.
>  I'm going from memory here, but I believe the plates of the tubes you
> reference are run from the +150 unregulated bus, so the VR tubes really
> don't enter into the equation.   Also, the BFO in that version is solid
> state, and DOES run from the VR tube supply, via a wirewound dropping
> resistor.  V12 is the crystal calibrator, and has no effect other than the
> calibrator signal itself.  Also, V9 is the Noise Blanker and has no effect
> unless the blanker is ON.
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> St Charles, IL
> Drake Service Supplement CDs for
> 2-B, 2-C/NT, A, B and C-Line,
> TR-4 and TR-4C
>
>
> Chuck Grandgent wrote:
>
>> Thanks Richard,
>>
>> Ya, I've dealt with VR tubes since the early 60s.  This one does glow just
>> fine.
>> And indeed, all 3 OB2's I've tried in the R4A yield the same anomalously
>> high voltages, within a volt or so.
>>
>> Have had this meter for maybe 6 years, it's always been quite accurate, it
>> was in the $50 price range.
>> But, not high impedance, so I have seen it read LOW on some lines where a
>> VTVM would've been called for, but I've never seen it read this HIGH. Like
>> V12, pins 5 and 6 s/b 55, but are reading 128, V5 and V9 also, but not by
>> THAT much.
>> Can't understand the failure mode.
>>
>> And, don't know whether those anomalous voltages have to do with the BFO
>> not working.
>>
>> I checked the voltages back in 2008 and they were fine, and it was working
>> when I stuck it on the shelf when I got the R4B.
>>
>>   Chuck, K1OM
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Dec 20, 2010 at 5:14 PM, Richard Knoppow 
>> <1oldle...@ix.netcom.com> 1oldle...@ix.netcom.com>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>- Original Message - From: "Chuck Grandgent"
>>mailto:ch...@chuckg.com>>
>>
>>To: "drakelist" ><mailto:drakelist@zerobeat.net>>
>>
>>Sent: Monday, December 20, 2010 11:13 AM
>>Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4A no BFO
>>
>>
>>
>>Well, since I couldn't make out the markings on the VR tube in
>>both my R4A
>>and R4B, I just drove over to vacuumtubes.net
>><http://vacuumtubes.net> (next town over) and got a
>>
>>couple 0B2's, these with clear markings.
>>
>>But, voltages in my R4A are still high, just as described below.
>>So anyway, they weren't 0A2's in there, they were the correct 0B2.
>>
>> Chuck, K1OM
>>
>>On Sat, Dec 18, 2010 at 6:40 PM, Chuck Grandgent
>>mailto:ch...@chuckg.com>> wrote:
>>
>>I dusted off the R4A that I retired maybe 3 years ago when
>>i got an R4B, as
>>I recall it WAS working fine when I put it on the shelf,
>>but I could be
>>wrong.
>>Signals seem plenty strong. but no BFO though signals seem
>>plenty strong,
>>sounds like it's ALMOST oscillating.
>>It's the 11-tube mode, serial 6987G.
>>Other notes: My DVM is cheapo, so not high impedance.  My
>>scope is on the
>>fritz.
>>I run the Drakes off an autotransformer, so 110VAC not 120VAC.
>>I have Garey's new R4A CD.
>>
>>Took base voltage readings (see below), plate on V5 and
>>V12 were quite a
>>bit higher than they should be,
>>so I thought to myself, whoa, maybe an OA2 is in there
>>instead of an OB2.
>>So, I took the OB2 from my R4B, but this didn't change my
>>readings, but
>>actually, can&#

Re: [Drakelist] R4A no BFO

[Chuck Grandgent]

Thanks Richard,

Ya, I've dealt with VR tubes since the early 60s.  This one does glow just
fine.
And indeed, all 3 OB2's I've tried in the R4A yield the same anomalously
high voltages, within a volt or so.

Have had this meter for maybe 6 years, it's always been quite accurate, it
was in the $50 price range.
But, not high impedance, so I have seen it read LOW on some lines where a
VTVM would've been called for, but I've never seen it read this HIGH. Like
V12, pins 5 and 6 s/b 55, but are reading 128, V5 and V9 also, but not by
THAT much.
Can't understand the failure mode.

And, don't know whether those anomalous voltages have to do with the BFO not
working.

I checked the voltages back in 2008 and they were fine, and it was working
when I stuck it on the shelf when I got the R4B.

   Chuck, K1OM


On Mon, Dec 20, 2010 at 5:14 PM, Richard Knoppow <1oldle...@ix.netcom.com>wrote:

>
> - Original Message - From: "Chuck Grandgent" 
> To: "drakelist" 
> Sent: Monday, December 20, 2010 11:13 AM
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4A no BFO
>
>
>
>  Well, since I couldn't make out the markings on the VR tube in both my R4A
>> and R4B, I just drove over to vacuumtubes.net (next town over) and got a
>> couple 0B2's, these with clear markings.
>>
>> But, voltages in my R4A are still high, just as described below.
>> So anyway, they weren't 0A2's in there, they were the correct 0B2.
>>
>>  Chuck, K1OM
>>
>> On Sat, Dec 18, 2010 at 6:40 PM, Chuck Grandgent 
>> wrote:
>>
>>  I dusted off the R4A that I retired maybe 3 years ago when i got an R4B,
>>> as
>>> I recall it WAS working fine when I put it on the shelf, but I could be
>>> wrong.
>>> Signals seem plenty strong. but no BFO though signals seem plenty strong,
>>> sounds like it's ALMOST oscillating.
>>> It's the 11-tube mode, serial 6987G.
>>> Other notes: My DVM is cheapo, so not high impedance.  My scope is on the
>>> fritz.
>>> I run the Drakes off an autotransformer, so 110VAC not 120VAC.
>>> I have Garey's new R4A CD.
>>>
>>> Took base voltage readings (see below), plate on V5 and V12 were quite a
>>> bit higher than they should be,
>>> so I thought to myself, whoa, maybe an OA2 is in there instead of an OB2.
>>> So, I took the OB2 from my R4B, but this didn't change my readings, but
>>> actually, can't make out any markings on either of the tubes.
>>> Now I'm worried both receivers had OA2 in there instead of OB2, but I
>>> find
>>> it doubtful that both would be wrong, and the R4B has been working fine
>>> for
>>> several years.
>>> I have the voltage readings from when I worked on the AGC back in 2008,
>>> and
>>> they were fine then.
>>>
>>> V5 pin 1 s/b -1, was -18
>>> pin 5 s/b 110, was 146
>>> pin 6 s/b 70was 95
>>>
>>> V8 - haven't been able to check that one yet, hard to get the probes in
>>> there
>>>
>>> V9 pin 1 s/b -1 was -21
>>> pin 5 s/b 128 was 144
>>> pin 6 s/b 110 was 120
>>>
>>> V11 (OB2) - haven't been able to check that one yet, hard to get the
>>> probes
>>> in there
>>>
>>> V12 pin 1 s/b -44 was zero
>>>   pin 5 s/b 55 was 128
>>>   pin 6 s/b 55 was 128
>>>
>>> Besides these voltage anomalies, what else might I check, maybe D11, D12
>>> for the BFO Q6 2N3394 ?
>>>
>>>   Chuck, K1OM
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>  You might want to borrow another voltmeter. Its just possible the
> meter is out of calibration, if it is you are just chasing your tail.
>
> Most modern meters, either electronic or passive, have high enough
> impedance for DC not to give false readings and, in any case, if the
> impedance (or rather resistance) is too low the voltages will read low, not
> high.
>
> For the most part gas regulator tubes are pretty close to the nominal
> value, within a volt or two. If you read high right at the tube plate the
> meter is wrong. The voltage might be high if the tube is not conducting but
> that would be very obvious because it would not be glowing. You can double
> check by pulling the tube out and measuring again. If the tube is applied
> correctly there should be _no_ voltage on the regulated line when it is
> removed because the tube has a built-in jumper for just that purpose (i.e.,
> to prevent excessively high voltage from being applied to the regulated
> stages. If the tube is glowing its working.
>
>
>
>
> --
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles
> WB6KBL
> dickb...@ix.netcom.com
>
>
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Re: [Drakelist] R4A no BFO

[Chuck Grandgent]

Well, since I couldn't make out the markings on the VR tube in both my R4A
and R4B, I just drove over to vacuumtubes.net (next town over) and got a
couple 0B2's, these with clear markings.

But, voltages in my R4A are still high, just as described below.
So anyway, they weren't 0A2's in there, they were the correct 0B2.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Sat, Dec 18, 2010 at 6:40 PM, Chuck Grandgent  wrote:

> I dusted off the R4A that I retired maybe 3 years ago when i got an R4B, as
> I recall it WAS working fine when I put it on the shelf, but I could be
> wrong.
> Signals seem plenty strong. but no BFO though signals seem plenty strong,
> sounds like it's ALMOST oscillating.
> It's the 11-tube mode, serial 6987G.
> Other notes: My DVM is cheapo, so not high impedance.  My scope is on the
> fritz.
> I run the Drakes off an autotransformer, so 110VAC not 120VAC.
> I have Garey's new R4A CD.
>
> Took base voltage readings (see below), plate on V5 and V12 were quite a
> bit higher than they should be,
> so I thought to myself, whoa, maybe an OA2 is in there instead of an OB2.
> So, I took the OB2 from my R4B, but this didn't change my readings, but
> actually, can't make out any markings on either of the tubes.
> Now I'm worried both receivers had OA2 in there instead of OB2, but I find
> it doubtful that both would be wrong, and the R4B has been working fine for
> several years.
> I have the voltage readings from when I worked on the AGC back in 2008, and
> they were fine then.
>
> V5 pin 1 s/b -1, was -18
>  pin 5 s/b 110, was 146
>  pin 6 s/b 70was 95
>
> V8 - haven't been able to check that one yet, hard to get the probes in
> there
>
> V9 pin 1 s/b -1 was -21
>  pin 5 s/b 128 was 144
>  pin 6 s/b 110 was 120
>
> V11 (OB2) - haven't been able to check that one yet, hard to get the probes
> in there
>
> V12 pin 1 s/b -44 was zero
>pin 5 s/b 55 was 128
>pin 6 s/b 55 was 128
>
> Besides these voltage anomalies, what else might I check, maybe D11, D12
> for the BFO Q6 2N3394 ?
>
>Chuck, K1OM
>
>
>
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[Drakelist] R4A no BFO

[Chuck Grandgent]

I dusted off the R4A that I retired maybe 3 years ago when i got an R4B, as
I recall it WAS working fine when I put it on the shelf, but I could be
wrong.
Signals seem plenty strong. but no BFO though signals seem plenty strong,
sounds like it's ALMOST oscillating.
It's the 11-tube mode, serial 6987G.
Other notes: My DVM is cheapo, so not high impedance.  My scope is on the
fritz.
I run the Drakes off an autotransformer, so 110VAC not 120VAC.
I have Garey's new R4A CD.

Took base voltage readings (see below), plate on V5 and V12 were quite a bit
higher than they should be,
so I thought to myself, whoa, maybe an OA2 is in there instead of an OB2.
So, I took the OB2 from my R4B, but this didn't change my readings, but
actually, can't make out any markings on either of the tubes.
Now I'm worried both receivers had OA2 in there instead of OB2, but I find
it doubtful that both would be wrong, and the R4B has been working fine for
several years.
I have the voltage readings from when I worked on the AGC back in 2008, and
they were fine then.

V5 pin 1 s/b -1, was -18
 pin 5 s/b 110, was 146
 pin 6 s/b 70was 95

V8 - haven't been able to check that one yet, hard to get the probes in
there

V9 pin 1 s/b -1 was -21
 pin 5 s/b 128 was 144
 pin 6 s/b 110 was 120

V11 (OB2) - haven't been able to check that one yet, hard to get the probes
in there

V12 pin 1 s/b -44 was zero
   pin 5 s/b 55 was 128
   pin 6 s/b 55 was 128

Besides these voltage anomalies, what else might I check, maybe D11, D12 for
the BFO Q6 2N3394 ?

   Chuck, K1OM
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Re: [Drakelist] AC4 heat

[Chuck Grandgent]

I see both the yahoogroups and zerobeat lists are listed on this thread, but
I'll reply with both anyway. (I personally don't feel cross-posting to both
lists is a wise idea, better then to stick with just one list, why have two
?)

Another reason to not have the AC-3/4 in the MS-4 - my shack is out in the
garage, and every spring the little birdies insist on trying to build nests
in the garage despite the fact the door is closed during the night.

Well, I luckily noticed the little birdies had thoroughly stuffed a nest in
the back of my MS-4, and had I not noticed it, a fire would have been
probable had I turned it on.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 5:50 PM, Dick KF4NS  wrote:

> Denny,
> I took your advice and moved the AC-4 to a floor location outside the MS-4
> and let it run all day. It is pretty warm but not too hot to touch as it was
> before. No fan needed now. Thanks for the reply.
>
>
> 73, Dick KF4NS
> St Petersburg, FL 33714 USA
> Keep The Glow!
>
>
> Re: AC4 heat
> Posted by: "Dennis Weal" w4...@gmx.com   w4eal
> Mon Dec 13, 2010 4:02 pm (PST)
>
>
> Considering that there is no direct intake, I would blow air onto the
> supply. I personally have never felt that much heat coming from the supply.
> I do not have either of my AC4's mounted in the MS4 housings. Maybe that is
> why I don't have the problem. I do not use fans either.
>
> Denny
> w4eal
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: Dick KF4NS
> Sent: 12/13/10 06:24 PM
> To: DrakeRadio list, Drake list at zerobeat, dr...@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [DrakeRadio] AC4 heat
>
> A while back I recall a discussion about the heat in the AC4/AC4R. Now
> that my rig is back in the shelf along with the PS in the MS-4, I
> notice that the back of the AC4R is too hot to touch for more than a
> couple seconds. I worry about cooking the xfmr too much.
>
> I could put a fan on the rear apron, and if so, is there a preference
> on the location? Also, would it make any difference which direction
> the air flow goes?
>
> 73, Dick KF4NS
> St Petersburg, FL 33714 USA
> Keep The Glow!
>
>
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[Drakelist] S-meter adjust question

[Chuck Grandgent]

Went to do the receiver sensitivity / S-meter adjustments today on my
R4B, hadn't done it on this one before, but I have done it on my R4A.

So on page 35 of the manual, Step 2, setting the sensitivity so TP2 is
-1.35 went OK.

But, starting on step 4, it says "Reconnect the voltmeter to TP-2 and
set the R.F. GAIN control counter-clockwise until -15 volts is
read..."

I don't get anywhere near -15 volts, no more than like -2 volts.  What
should I check ?

   Chuck, K1OM

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[Drakelist] FW: Milton A. Sullivan Jr, ex-K8YDO, Former Chief Engineer at R. L. Drake (SK)

[Chuck Grandgent]

from the ARRL website:

11/11/2010

Milton A. “Buddy” Sullivan Jr, ex-K8YDO, of Washington, DC -- the
former chief engineer at the R. L. Drake Company -- passed away from a
stroke on October 28. He was 85. Sullivan designed and oversaw the
designs of all the most significant Drake Amateur Radio products,
including the 1A, 2B and 2NT transmitter, all the 4 lines and the
beginning of the 7 line. After retiring from Drake in 1984, Sullivan
ran his own business selling and setting up satellite television
systems, an offshoot of his later projects at Drake that involved
designing satellite equipment. After that, he went back to work full
time as chief engineer for Lytton Electronics, where he worked until
his final retirement in 1990. In 1993, he and his wife Judith moved to
South Carolina where Sullivan worked for Alpha Delta, the small
company owned by his former Drake colleague and long time friend, Don
Tyrrell, W8AD. Sullivan donated his body to science. A US Navy
veteran, he will be interred at Arlington National Cemetery after a
term with the Georgetown University Medical School.  -- Thanks to John
Sullivan and Don Tyrrell, W8AD, for the information

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Re: [Drakelist] R4B erratic crystal calibrator

[Chuck Grandgent]

First thing I tried was that C119 cap on the board.
Tweaked it just a little and the calibrator signal "popped in", nice and
strong.
Tried putting it back and it pretty much disappeared again.
So I guess depending on environmental parameters it was at a marginal value
for sustaining oscillation.

Thanks for all the pointers,

   Chuck, K1OM

On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 5:42 PM, Chuck Grandgent  wrote:

> Thanks Richard, thanks Garey,  Lots of things to try and check,
> will report back what I find after poking around.
>
>Chuck
>
>
> On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 5:15 PM, Richard Knoppow 
> <1oldle...@ix.netcom.com>wrote:
>
>>
>> - Original Message - From: "Chuck Grandgent" 
>> To: 
>> Cc: "drakelist" 
>> Sent: Monday, October 25, 2010 1:52 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B erratic crystal calibrator
>>
>>
>>  Yes, C192 was also part of the Hayseed recapping.
>>>
>>> I will check D16.
>>>
>>> The erratic operation (better characterized as failing to stay in
>>> oscillation) was there both before and after the recapping, with the same
>>> modus operandi.
>>>
>>> I do also have a spare 100khz crystal, same form factor, I suppose I
>>> could
>>> try that too.
>>>
>>>  Chuck, K1OM
>>>
>>> On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 4:37 PM, Garey Barrell 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>  Chuck -
>>>>
>>>> Does Tom's kit include C192?  I think it does.  If not 
>>>>
>>>> Also D16.
>>>>
>>>> And with the erratic operation, solder joints on C190, etc.  Tough
>>>> places
>>>> to solder.
>>>>
>>>> 73, Garey - K4OAH
>>>> Glen Allen, VA
>>>>
>>>> Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line&
>>>> TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
>>>> 
>>>>
>>>>D-16,  R-158, R-157 C192, C-190, all appear to be part of a low
>> voltage supply that feeds the calirator and nothing else. Looking at the
>> junction of C-190 and the emitter of Q-9 should tell if its working. This is
>> a half-wave rectifier fed by the 12V filament supply with large filter caps
>> so the DC out of it should be more than 6 or 7 volts, anyway, it should be
>> there all the time. The calibrator is switched by lifting a ground at the
>> source of TIS-34, the oscillator. Its possible the function switch is
>> intermittant, maybe not likely but its worth cleaning the contacts on S-3
>> front. I don't remember if the transistors in this circuit are in sockets or
>> soldered in, if in sockets wiggle them and if soldered it might be worth
>> re-flowing the solder. Also, Garey often recommends working any screws that
>> are used for grounding. This kind of intermittant sounds like a heat problem
>> but even intermittant switches can be affected by heat.
>>The output of the calibrator is available at the antenna input to the
>> receiver and that is  a convenient place to check for its presense and for
>> adjusting the calibration. Also, work the calibrator adjusting capacitor. I
>> think this is  a very unlikely cause but won't hurt anything.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Richard Knoppow
>> Los Angeles
>> WB6KBL
>> dickb...@ix.netcom.com
>>
>
>
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Re: [Drakelist] R4B erratic crystal calibrator

[Chuck Grandgent]

Thanks Richard, thanks Garey,  Lots of things to try and check,
will report back what I find after poking around.

   Chuck

On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 5:15 PM, Richard Knoppow <1oldle...@ix.netcom.com>wrote:

>
> - Original Message - From: "Chuck Grandgent" 
> To: 
> Cc: "drakelist" 
> Sent: Monday, October 25, 2010 1:52 PM
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B erratic crystal calibrator
>
>
>  Yes, C192 was also part of the Hayseed recapping.
>>
>> I will check D16.
>>
>> The erratic operation (better characterized as failing to stay in
>> oscillation) was there both before and after the recapping, with the same
>> modus operandi.
>>
>> I do also have a spare 100khz crystal, same form factor, I suppose I could
>> try that too.
>>
>>  Chuck, K1OM
>>
>> On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 4:37 PM, Garey Barrell 
>> wrote:
>>
>>  Chuck -
>>>
>>> Does Tom's kit include C192?  I think it does.  If not 
>>>
>>> Also D16.
>>>
>>> And with the erratic operation, solder joints on C190, etc.  Tough places
>>> to solder.
>>>
>>> 73, Garey - K4OAH
>>> Glen Allen, VA
>>>
>>> Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line&
>>> TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
>>> 
>>>
>>>D-16,  R-158, R-157 C192, C-190, all appear to be part of a low
> voltage supply that feeds the calirator and nothing else. Looking at the
> junction of C-190 and the emitter of Q-9 should tell if its working. This is
> a half-wave rectifier fed by the 12V filament supply with large filter caps
> so the DC out of it should be more than 6 or 7 volts, anyway, it should be
> there all the time. The calibrator is switched by lifting a ground at the
> source of TIS-34, the oscillator. Its possible the function switch is
> intermittant, maybe not likely but its worth cleaning the contacts on S-3
> front. I don't remember if the transistors in this circuit are in sockets or
> soldered in, if in sockets wiggle them and if soldered it might be worth
> re-flowing the solder. Also, Garey often recommends working any screws that
> are used for grounding. This kind of intermittant sounds like a heat problem
> but even intermittant switches can be affected by heat.
>The output of the calibrator is available at the antenna input to the
> receiver and that is  a convenient place to check for its presense and for
> adjusting the calibration. Also, work the calibrator adjusting capacitor. I
> think this is  a very unlikely cause but won't hurt anything.
>
>
> --
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles
> WB6KBL
> dickb...@ix.netcom.com
>
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Re: [Drakelist] R4B erratic crystal calibrator

[Chuck Grandgent]

Yes, C192 was also part of the Hayseed recapping.

I will check D16.

The erratic operation (better characterized as failing to stay in
oscillation) was there both before and after the recapping, with the same
modus operandi.

I do also have a spare 100khz crystal, same form factor, I suppose I could
try that too.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 4:37 PM, Garey Barrell  wrote:

> Chuck -
>
> Does Tom's kit include C192?  I think it does.  If not 
>
> Also D16.
>
> And with the erratic operation, solder joints on C190, etc.  Tough places
> to solder.
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line&
> TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
> Chuck Grandgent wrote:
>
>> My R4B crystal calibrator has been acting erratically.
>>
>> Often does not function until the R4B has been on for 20 minutes or so.
>> When I first turn on the calibrator function, I can initially hear it for
>> maybe 100msec, but it does not stay in oscillation.
>> And when it's being persnickety, when it does stay in oscillation, it
>> doesn't sound like a clean sine-wave.
>>
>> Last night it was acting like this.  But just now, it was fine.  Came up
>> right off, sounded fine, and was working OK on 15 meters (didn't try 10
>> meters).
>>
>> I recently did the Hayseed re-capping, so C190 was replaced, and after the
>> recapping it seemed to really help the crystal calibrator function, as it
>> was much worse before the recapping.
>>
>> What else might I check ?  I see the calibrator circuitry on the
>> schematic. My scope is still down for repairs.
>>
>>   Chuck, K1OM
>>
>>
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>
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[Drakelist] R4B erratic crystal calibrator

[Chuck Grandgent]

My R4B crystal calibrator has been acting erratically.

Often does not function until the R4B has been on for 20 minutes or so.
When I first turn on the calibrator function, I can initially hear it for
maybe 100msec, but it does not stay in oscillation.
And when it's being persnickety, when it does stay in oscillation, it
doesn't sound like a clean sine-wave.

Last night it was acting like this.  But just now, it was fine.  Came up
right off, sounded fine, and was working OK on 15 meters (didn't try 10
meters).

I recently did the Hayseed re-capping, so C190 was replaced, and after the
recapping it seemed to really help the crystal calibrator function, as it
was much worse before the recapping.

What else might I check ?  I see the calibrator circuitry on the schematic.
My scope is still down for repairs.

   Chuck, K1OM
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[Drakelist] bad conditions ? - wasting my time

[Chuck Grandgent]

Has there been poor propagation last couple days, solar storm maybe ?

I went to use the R4B yesterday, there was a prominent "buzzing" noise on
the bands, and could hardly get any signals on any bands.

Didn't sound like regular QRN, and I couldn't find any noise source in the
garage, so I decided must be something punk in the R4B.

So I got out the R4A and proceeded to do a tube swap (second step was going
to be a voltage test). No diff.  So I hooked up the R4A and was dumbfounded
no signals either.

So I put the tubes back the way there were before and was going to do the
voltage check on the R4B today.

So, I get it flipped over, turn it on, and lo and behold lots of great
signals and no QRN.

Sheesh.

   Chuck, K1OM
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Re: [Drakelist] 6JB6 vs.6JB6A

[Chuck Grandgent]

Meant to add, QCWA, 45 years.

On Wed, Sep 29, 2010 at 9:59 PM, Chuck Grandgent  wrote:

> Of course this was only tongue-in-cheek.  I plan on checking out in 2025,
> long before I get to my 90's.
>
>Chuck
>
>
> On Wed, Sep 29, 2010 at 9:53 PM, Don Cunningham wrote:
>
>>  If they were Sylvania, Chuck, you probably could, but GE's?  I don't
>> know about that.  I think that's one of the brands that sometimes won't
>> neutralize.  I may be wrong, and it may be RCA, but some of them don't seem
>> to make it.
>> 73,
>> Don, WB5HAK
>>
>
>
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Re: [Drakelist] 6JB6 vs.6JB6A

[Chuck Grandgent]

Of course this was only tongue-in-cheek.  I plan on checking out in 2025,
long before I get to my 90's.

   Chuck

On Wed, Sep 29, 2010 at 9:53 PM, Don Cunningham wrote:

>  If they were Sylvania, Chuck, you probably could, but GE's?  I don't
> know about that.  I think that's one of the brands that sometimes won't
> neutralize.  I may be wrong, and it may be RCA, but some of them don't seem
> to make it.
> 73,
> Don, WB5HAK
>
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Re: [Drakelist] 6JB6 vs.6JB6A

[Chuck Grandgent]

I have a matched pair (GE) from RF Parts I got maybe 10 years ago, packed in
a wooden salt cod box.  Counting on the sale proceeds to fund my retirement
when I get to my 90's :)

   Chuck, K1OM

On Wed, Sep 29, 2010 at 9:33 PM, Don Cunningham wrote:

>  The same date code doesn't have much to do with matching, Richard, but
> they probably are close.  There is a proceedure used for matching, but you'd
> have to have a basketfull of them to use it anymore.  Drake original tubes
> have a number written on top of them in magic marker.  I've been lucky
> enough over the years to find several of those.  They are NEVER in a box,
> usually wrapped up in some "paper like" wrap and in a nondescrete box.  If
> you spot those, with matching numbers at an estate sale or hamfest, GRAB
> THEM.  I got three pairs with a radio set just because they weren't in a
> box, they were considered used!!!
> 73,
> Don, WB5HAK
>
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[Drakelist] R4B recapping pics

[Chuck Grandgent]

http://www.chuckg.com/r4brecapping.htm

Note it's incomplete because I haven't done C176 yet, but I'm heading
out of town and don't know when I'll get to that.
I take the pics mostly for my own reference, so if 20 minutes after
removing something some question comes up, I have the pics to refer
to.

   Chuck, K1OM

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[Drakelist] all done Re: R4B question about R91

[Chuck Grandgent]

Well it's all buttoned up and working, thanks for all the help !

Like I said, I knew the previous owner had done surgery on it, just
not aware that included the can which he also replaced.

So just made for a confusing time.

To add insult to injury, when I got that last 100uF section wired up,
I was getting good calibrator signal, but no signals on the bands.
Then I looked over and saw I'd disconnected the antenna yesterday
because of T-storms :)

So it's working nicely, y'all go out and HayseedHamfest your caps !

   Chuck, K1OM

On Sun, Jul 25, 2010 at 2:59 PM, Richard Knoppow
<1oldle...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>
> - Original Message - From: "Chuck Grandgent" 
> To: "Richard Knoppow" <1oldle...@ix.netcom.com>
> Cc: 
> Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2010 11:34 AM
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B question about R91
>
>
> Thanks Richard, Garey,
>
> Much of my confusion has been caused because the previous owner had
> done surgery to it, so instead of a can with C90 B,C,D 100uF (plus
> C90A 29uF), the can that was installed only had two 100uF sections,
> then they'd tucked another 100uF can under the chassis.  As well, the
> triangle square etc markings on the bottom of the can didn't match the
> one I got from Hayseed which I did notice right away, but added to the
> confusion, as I was going on the assumption the can on the chassis was
> the original.  That also led to confusion about he resistor that was
> on the bottom of the can.
>
> I do have Garey's guide and agree to its utility !
>
> I think I've just about got it.
> Tested it on low voltage first - with all major power supply
> maintenance I do, instead of just hitting it with the 110, I first hit
> it with 12VAC from a filament transformer and take quick voltage
> readings. I find it's less exciting that way :)
> Next hit it with the full voltage and it almost works, get calibrator
> signal etc., just have to account for that third 100uF section that's
> not wired up yet.
>
>  Chuck, K1OM
>
>    C-90D is at the B+ end of the primary of the audio output transformer.
> R-43, a 330 ohm resistor, goes between it and the junction of D4 and D5
> (power supply rectifiers). Filtering and decoupling for the power amp.  Also
> in the upper right corner of the schematic near the transformer.
>
>
> --
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles
> WB6KBL
> dickb...@ix.netcom.com
>

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Re: [Drakelist] R4B question about R91

[Chuck Grandgent]

Thanks Richard, Garey,

Much of my confusion has been caused because the previous owner had
done surgery to it, so instead of a can with C90 B,C,D 100uF (plus
C90A 29uF), the can that was installed only had two 100uF sections,
then they'd tucked another 100uF can under the chassis.  As well, the
triangle square etc markings on the bottom of the can didn't match the
one I got from Hayseed which I did notice right away, but added to the
confusion, as I was going on the assumption the can on the chassis was
the original.  That also led to confusion about he resistor that was
on the bottom of the can.

I do have Garey's guide and agree to its utility !

I think I've just about got it.
Tested it on low voltage first - with all major power supply
maintenance I do, instead of just hitting it with the 110, I first hit
it with 12VAC from a filament transformer and take quick voltage
readings. I find it's less exciting that way :)
Next hit it with the full voltage and it almost works, get calibrator
signal etc., just have to account for that third 100uF section that's
not wired up yet.

   Chuck, K1OM


On Sat, Jul 24, 2010 at 9:21 PM, Richard Knoppow
<1oldle...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>
> - Original Message - From: "Chuck Grandgent" 
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 5:54 PM
> Subject: [Drakelist] R4B question about R91
>
>
>> I'm doing the HayseedHamfest recapping on my R4B.
>>
>> What's the deal with R91, it goes between the two 100uF sections.
>> What's it's purpose ?
>> And, It's listed as 150 ohms, 2 Watts.  But in mine, it looks like
>> it's more like 1/2 watt, and looks pretty toasted, but it does test
>> OK.
>>
>> I will also say, replacing that can is like doing a root canal on the R4B.
>>
>> Got it all done today, but haven't tested it yet, will do that tomorrow.
>>
>>  Chuck, K1OM
>
>   It appers to serve two purposes, one is to drop the 160V line to 150v and
> the other is as part of the decouping and filtering of the 150V line by
> C-90C. Since the resistor has a 10 volt drop across it the power is equal to
> E^2/R about 2/3 of a watt. A half-watt resistor would get quite hot. A mud
> (carbon composition) resistor would probably have gone up in value but a
> film resistor could take it and stay stable. Nonetheless, I think I would
> replace it with a good film resistor of the specified power capacity.
>
>
> --
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles
> WB6KBL
> dickb...@ix.netcom.com
>

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Re: [Drakelist] R4B question about R91

[Chuck Grandgent]

On my schematic it shows R91 150 2W between C90C and C90B ?

At any rate, I'm referring to the resistor that I found on the bottom
of the can, between the two 100uF tabs.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Sat, Jul 24, 2010 at 11:14 PM, Garey Barrell  wrote:
> Chuck -
>
> I'm not sure what you are referring to, but R91 IS a 150 ohm, 2W resistor on
> Board 5.
>
> The resistor across the bottom of the can is R136, and is a 1k, 1/2W.
>
> ??
>
> Check my CD...
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line&  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
> Chuck Grandgent wrote:
>>
>> I'm doing the HayseedHamfest recapping on my R4B.
>>
>> What's the deal with R91, it goes between the two 100uF sections.
>> What's it's purpose ?
>> And, It's listed as 150 ohms, 2 Watts.  But in mine, it looks like
>> it's more like 1/2 watt, and looks pretty toasted, but it does test
>> OK.
>>
>> I will also say, replacing that can is like doing a root canal on the R4B.
>>
>> Got it all done today, but haven't tested it yet, will do that tomorrow.
>>
>>    Chuck, K1OM
>>
>>
>
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[Drakelist] R4B question about R91

[Chuck Grandgent]

I'm doing the HayseedHamfest recapping on my R4B.

What's the deal with R91, it goes between the two 100uF sections.
What's it's purpose ?
And, It's listed as 150 ohms, 2 Watts.  But in mine, it looks like
it's more like 1/2 watt, and looks pretty toasted, but it does test
OK.

I will also say, replacing that can is like doing a root canal on the R4B.

Got it all done today, but haven't tested it yet, will do that tomorrow.

   Chuck, K1OM

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Re: [Drakelist] Reply To

[Chuck Grandgent]

My $0.02 worth (not worth much these days)

Since there is little consistency between all the groups I'm on, I try to
remember every time to CHECK where "REPLY" will go, and adjust accordingly.

Hence, I don't care HOW you set it, I'll still have to check each time.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Mon, Jul 12, 2010 at 1:27 PM, Garey Barrell  wrote:

> Brian -
>
> All that "yakking" is all well and good for 20 years ago.  TODAY, on
> typical reflector type mail lists, REPLY goes to the list.  The whole idea,
>  _at least for the Drake list_, is to spread information among as many users
> as we can.  Having REPLY go ONLY to the OP deprives the rest of the list
> members whatever information was exchanged.  Now if this is the occasional
> sale negotiation, or other 'private' communication, it's easy enough to just
> replace the list address with the OPs address, or REPLY ALL and delete
> everything but the OPs address.
>
> The annoyance of the current situation is that I have to Reply All to
> respond to the list, which currently then includes you, Richard, AND the
> list.  So unless I delete those two addresses, you will each receive TWO
> copies of this drivel!  :-)
>
> I've been using eMail since ARPANET in the 60's, and there have been a LOT
> of changes in protocol, or 'what's right' in that time.  This is one that is
> past due.
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line&  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
>
> Brian Koontz wrote:
>
>> I offer up these links not to take sides on the issue, or to serve up
>> controversy, but to simply provide some food for thought.  (I, too,
>> have been down this road over the years.)
>>
>> http://www.unicom.com/pw/reply-to-harmful.html
>> http://woozle.org/~neale/papers/reply-to-still-harmful.html
>>
>>   --Brian/WA3ITE
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 12, 2010 at 09:38:01AM -0700, Richard Knoppow wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Most lists seem to be set so that a _reply_ command
>>> goes to the list and _reply all_ goes to both list and
>>> original sender. Its rather confusing when a list is set the
>>> other way and requires editing of the _to_ field if you want
>>> a reply to go to the list only. Also, evidently, a lot of
>>> replies are going back to the original sender and not
>>> getting to the list or the list archive. I use OE, which is
>>> crude compared to Eudora but does the same thing.  My vote
>>> is to change it.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: [Drakelist] R4B caps under the chassis

[Chuck Grandgent]

Super, thanks Garey,

I got your R4C CD, once I am no longer in the ranks of the unemployed I'll
get the one for the R4B.

   Chuck

On Sat, Mar 27, 2010 at 5:38 PM, Garey Barrell  wrote:

> Chuck -
>
> YEAH!!  :-)  The "diagonal" one is a cobble job that has been stuck across
> the  Both have been replaced.  The one parallel to the chassis wall is
> supposed to be the 1000 @ 15V, but the "other" one is paralleled across C90C
> in the Twist-Lok" cap, probably because the can is dried out and the ESR is
> way up.   And the guy was too cheap to fix it properly.
>
> Simple if you have the CD.!
>
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line&  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
> Chuck Grandgent wrote:
>
>> Oh yeah ?  Well take a look at this and see why I'm baffled:
>> http://www.chuckg.com/images/R4Bserial7048G.jpg
>>
>>   Serial # is 7048G
>>
>>   Chuck, K1OM
>>
>> On Sat, Mar 27, 2010 at 4:58 PM, Garey Barrell > k4...@mindspring.com>> wrote:
>>
>>Chuck -
>>
>>You "really" need my CD for the B-Line!  :-)
>>
>>There is only one large electrolytic in the area you describe.
>> It's C192, 1000 uF @ 15V and is the filter for the divider chips
>>on the Calibrator board.
>>
>>73, Garey - K4OAH
>>Glen Allen, VA
>>
>>Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line&  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
>>http://www.k4oah.com>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Chuck Grandgent wrote:
>>
>>what are the two big electrolytic caps under the R4B chassis
>>near where the power line comes in ?
>>I'm looking on the schematic, but really only am seeing the
>>multi-section can on top of the chassis.
>>
>>These two under the chassis look like they've been replaced at
>>some point (long ago, not modern), and I don't like the looks
>>of them.
>>
>>  Chuck, K1OM
>>
>>
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>>
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Re: [Drakelist] R4B caps under the chassis

[Chuck Grandgent]

Oh yeah ?  Well take a look at this and see why I'm baffled:
http://www.chuckg.com/images/R4Bserial7048G.jpg

   Serial # is 7048G

   Chuck, K1OM

On Sat, Mar 27, 2010 at 4:58 PM, Garey Barrell  wrote:

> Chuck -
>
> You "really" need my CD for the B-Line!  :-)
>
> There is only one large electrolytic in the area you describe.  It's C192,
> 1000 uF @ 15V and is the filter for the divider chips on the Calibrator
> board.
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line&  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
>
> Chuck Grandgent wrote:
>
>> what are the two big electrolytic caps under the R4B chassis near where
>> the power line comes in ?
>> I'm looking on the schematic, but really only am seeing the multi-section
>> can on top of the chassis.
>>
>> These two under the chassis look like they've been replaced at some point
>> (long ago, not modern), and I don't like the looks of them.
>>
>>   Chuck, K1OM
>>
>>
>
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[Drakelist] R4B caps under the chassis

[Chuck Grandgent]

what are the two big electrolytic caps under the R4B chassis near where the
power line comes in ?
I'm looking on the schematic, but really only am seeing the multi-section
can on top of the chassis.

These two under the chassis look like they've been replaced at some point
(long ago, not modern), and I don't like the looks of them.

   Chuck, K1OM
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[Drakelist] R4B xformer temp Re: receiver xformer

[Chuck Grandgent]

Well I had the R4B opened anyway, so I took some temperature readings on its
power transformer.

Normally I run the Drakes off a step-down transformer, so they see the
110VAC they were designed for instead of the 120VAC of today.
Turns out not a big diff in the temperature readings:

>From the top of the transformer
110VAC   1 hour   102 degrees F
120VAC   1 hour   107 degrees F

>From the side of the transformer
110 VAC   20 minutes   114 degrees F
120 VAC   20 minutes   116 degrees F

This was with the cover off, and ambient temperature of about 70F.
Original electrolytics AFAIK.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 10:02 AM, Garey Barrell wrote:

> Nigel -
>
> The receiver in question uses full wave rectification, with the exception
> of a "zero current" Bias supply which is half-wave.  I believe this is the
> case in all Drake receivers.
>
> The transmitter power supplies use voltage doublers, which seems to be
> typical of the higher power supplies.  I assume at least part of the reason
> is it's easier to wind 400 turns of #20 wire than 800 turns of #30 without
> breakage.  I don't think copper prices were as significant then as they are
> now, but ...
>
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line&  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
> Nigel Gunn G8IFF/W8IFF wrote:
>
>> I beleive that one of the main causees of transformer heating appears to
>> be the use of half wave rectification and half wave voltage multipliers. It
>> saves on diodes, causes lousy voltage regulation and can cause core
>> saturation in the mains transformer if the seondary current increases.
>>
>> This  seems more prevalent in US than UK equipment which, unless extremely
>> cheap, always seems to use full wave rectification.
>> Don't know which Drake tended to use. Probably a mixture of both.
>>
>>
>>
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[Drakelist] R4B crystal calibrator

[Chuck Grandgent]

I have the manual for R4A and R4C, but not R4B.

My R4B's crystal calibrator signal level has gone WAY down.
R4A has V12 for the calibrator, but my R4B does not have that tube.
R4C is solid state for the calibrator.

Where might I look in the R4B ?

   Chuck, K1OM
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Re: [Drakelist] Crystal Calibrator Alignment TR-4

[Chuck Grandgent]

Hey Garey,

did you mean uF or pF.  Richrd is quite certain you really meant pF.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Thu, Feb 25, 2010 at 2:38 PM, Garey Barrell  wrote:

> Richard -
>
> OK.   That 0.005 cap isn't particularly critical.  The 1000 ohm resistor is
> the load, the cap is just to prevent shorting the DC to ground.  Any disc
> ceramic from 0.001 to 0.01 uF at 500V or more would work just fine.
>
> I wouldn't worry too much about the calibrator.  As long as someone hasn't
> twisted on the trimmer cap it's plenty close enough.
>
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line&  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
> Richard Palmer wrote:
>
>> Garey,
>>
>> I have cleaned my eBay TR-4. Replaced two tubes, V1 &V20. Along with
>> tightening up the ps connector pins and probably some other small forgotten
>> stuff it seems to be working nicely. Although I still have yet to make
>> "first contact". I thought I'd go through the complete alignment procedure
>> to check and adjust as necessary.
>>
>> ( I thought I had a source for two 0.01pF capacitors from Allied but their
>> web site ordering is worse than crap. I called them and to my disbelief
>> still more crap. So I'm still looking for some caps to get the 0.005pf for
>> the alignment procedure.)
>>
>> That's why I asked about calibrating the calibrator. I don't suspect any
>> problem... just want to check all the settings.
>>
>> Richard Palmer
>> KB8NXO
>>
>>
>> Garey Barrell wrote:
>>
>>> Richard -
>>>
>>> Do you have ANY receiver aside from your TR-4?  It doesn't have to have a
>>> BFO or be particularly stable or sensitive.
>>>
>>> If all you have is a Broadcast Band table radio, see if you have a
>>> commercial station on an even 100 kHz frequency such as 700, 800, 1200, etc.
>>>  It doesn't have to be local, in fact best if it isn't too strong, and the
>>> higher the better.  Get it close to the TR-4, and possibly wrap a turn or
>>> two of wire around the calibrator tube, bringing the other end near the
>>> broadcast receiver antenna.  Turn on the calibrator and adjust your wire
>>> until the calibrator signal is about the same strength as the BC station,
>>> then adjust the calibrator until the signal is at zero beat.  Adjust as
>>> carefully as you can, if the signals are near the same strength you'll
>>> actually be able to hear a slow variation in amplitude when you're within a
>>> few Hz of zero.
>>>
>>> This is far from ideal, but BC stations are very accurate.   When you
>>> calibrate at 10 MHz, you are comparing the 100th harmonic of the calibrator
>>> to a known frequency, whereas with a broadcast station you're only at the
>>> 10th harmonic on a 1 MHz BC station.  But plenty close enough for our
>>> purposes.
>>>
>>> Better still is if you can borrow a receiver that covers 10 or 15 MHz,
>>> and if you can resist adjusting the calibrator, they stay correct for a LONG
>>> time.  In fact, unless someone has been "adjusting" it, it's probably close
>>> enough!
>>>
>>> 73, Garey - K4OAH
>>> Glen Allen, VA
>>>
>>> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line&  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>> Richard Palmer wrote:
>>>
 The manual says to tune to WWV ect.ect. I'm assuming this is 10Mc. . Can
 I use a signal generator set to 10Mc. and accomplish the same desired
 result? I have neither of these and must buy what I need to skin this cat.
 Any suggestions? One caveat... it must be inexpensive.

 Thanks in advance,
 Richard Palmer
 KB8NXO

>>>
>>
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Re: [Drakelist] ECL counter IC source?

[Chuck Grandgent]

Not suggesting you re-engineer it, but my memory is ECL is quite old
technology.  It was fast, but power hungry.  I believe it fell out of favor
by '90 or so.
That's probably why it's so expensive.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Tue, Feb 9, 2010 at 9:04 AM, Curt Nixon  wrote:

> Good Morning:
>
> I'm looking for a couple of ECL Bi Quinary Counter IC in Dip package..used
> on the DR7 board.
>
> MC10138
>
> Anyone have a source for these where I might buy just 2?
>
> Thanks
>
> Curt
>
>
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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A is in the oven!

[Chuck Grandgent]

Well good luck Steve, but I think somebody should do a citizen's arrest.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Sun, Nov 1, 2009 at 6:18 PM, Steve Wedge  wrote:

>  It was a perfect day to wash the R-4A: cloudy, intermittent drizzle, only
> about 50F/10C outside.
>
> I removed the PTO from the chassis but not the power xformer, so I was a
> bit careful not to flood the underside too much.  Took some Charlie's Soap
> (available locally here in NC - it's a really good surfactant but not as
> harsh as 409), some toothbrushes and utility brushes and swirled/scrubbed
> the top of the chassis, then rinsed in the kitchen sink with the sink
> sprayer.
>
> I then sprayed some more Charlie's Soap on the underside and very lightly
> worked it in with a utility brush (those brushes with metal handles used for
> spreading glue, etc), let it sit a few minutes and sprayed it - making sure
> to avoid the area immediately under the power transformer again.
>
> I then poured distilled water over the top, then the underside (except the
> xformer again) and popped it into the oven, set at 170F on convection for
> about 10 minutes, then to "Warm" where it will stay for most of this
> evening.
>
> I cleaned the PTO dial with Charlie's Soap and it looks like new.  There's
> brown grease on the single nylon gear - was this applied by the factory?
> I'm thinking the PTO is really smooth, so maybe the only thing I'll do with
> it is touch up the bearing lube without pulling the whole thing apart.
>
> What's the consensus regarding the brown grease?  Should I flush out the
> ball bearings with alcohol and re-do with Teflon lube?
>
> 73,
>
> Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
>
> "No trees were harmed in the creation of this email, but many electrons
> were diverted."
> If this message appears, then it came from my mobile computer!
>
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC/R-4C/AC-4 low power questions

[Chuck Grandgent]

also, use an INSULATED screwdriver for these on the left side of the
chassis.  If you use a metal one and it touches the chassis while you are
making adjustments, it can short stuff out.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Tue, Aug 25, 2009 at 6:12 PM, amfone  wrote:

>   There are small tuning caps on the T4XC and R4C as I recall on the side
> of each one, to tweak output on each band using each independent PTO. I
> believe there are three for each band. With a watt meter and dummy load..
> incrementally adjust these for about 100 watts output... not more..if you
> can only get 80 to 90 watts out on a band particularly 15 or 10 meters
> that's  fine.
>
> You must remove as I recall both the top and bottom covers of each, the
> T4XC and R4C...to get to this small tinning caps on the side of the rigs.
>
> 73 Tim
> wb8uhz
>
> --- On *Tue, 8/25/09, Brett Forehand * wrote:
>
>
> From: Brett Forehand 
> Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XC/R-4C/AC-4 low power questions
> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Date: Tuesday, August 25, 2009, 5:21 PM
>
>
> Hello folks, I'm new to the group and new to a Drake "twins" set.  Receive
> seems to be working well after using a LOT of deoxit.  Knocked all the
> crispy/scratchiness out of all the controls.  BTO is working smoothly.  The
> noise blanker is phenomenal.  Getting the nicotine off of the front panel
> revealed a real nice face on both the transmitter and the receiver. Using a
> hand me down G5RV, which I know is not the best, but seems to pull in
> signals very well.
> I am not getting much output (5-10 watts on SSB) on 20 and 40.  I have VERY
> little output according to the transmitter meter, the watt meter I'm using
> is an outboard Kenwood.  I could just leave it alone and call it a QRP rig,
> I guess!  ;)
> I was wondering if the bias setting on the PS could be set wrong?  Or am I
> to assume since there is not much output when tuning/loading, (below .1 ma,
> actually at the little notch on the top side of the meter) that the power
> supply is soft?  I have seen the cap replacement/upgrade board for these
> supplies, and am considering getting one.
>
> Any suggestions to point me the right direction are greatly appreciated.  I
> am a total newbie at this, and can use all the help I can get.
>
> Thanks and 73,
> Brett
>
>
>
> -Inline Attachment Follows-
>
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Re: [Drakelist] letting the smoke OUT !

[Chuck Grandgent]

Another approach might be this.
Instead of applying full input voltage from the line, feed it from the
output of a filament transformer, and then check voltages under much safer
and less exciting conditions.
In other words, step down from 110 or 220 to the 12 volt winding of a
filament transformer, and feed that to the amp.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Wed, Aug 19, 2009 at 11:22 AM, Richard J. Fiero II W5TFW <
joeyw5...@gmail.com> wrote:

> HI all,
>
> I need some advice, my l4b  is sick, I was sitting here and it started
> smelling like it was burning so I unplugged it.
> I can see NOTHING wrong with a visual inspection,
>
> how can I test the TUBES with a volt meter ? I am curious to see if I have
> one shorted out.
>
>  Thanks in advance,
>
>Joey  W5TFW
>
>
>
> A.R.S. W5TFW
>Richard J. Fiero II
>www.w5tfw.com
> www.6mt.com
>
>  Life's Tough,.. Its even tougher if you are Stupid !
>
>  John Wayne
>
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[Drakelist] Great R4B questions

[Chuck Grandgent]

There's an R4B currently on the e-place, with the following wonderful
question to the seller:

Q: Is this Drake amplifier Stereo or Mono and will it remote start a car
with some buttons ?Jun-22-09
A: I'm sure this don't have anything to do with starting a car, It a ham
radio RECEIVER, Like a shortwave radio, Thinks for asking


nyuk, nyuk, nyuk

   Chuck, K1OM
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Re: [Drakelist] new R4B member of the family

[Chuck Grandgent]

Well I spent a littl time with the R4A this morning.

First, no tube swaps with the R4B yielded any improvement.  Strangely,
some even made the R4A LESS sensitive.  Don't know what that says
about the tubes in the R4B, but I think it really means all the tubes
are pretty much fine.

I did try the timmers, using the XTAL oscillator as a signal source,
that did not yield any improvement, they were all already "on".

I did check TP2 and its associated adjustment resistor under the
chassis, that too was already fine, though it does highlight I do need
a much higher impedance voltmeter than the one I have.

I did use deoxit on the RF and AF controls, the wafer switches, etc.,
that yielded a BIG improvement in overall operation, though not
sensitivity.

While the R4B does seem a bit "hotter", and it's "S" meter is more
responsive, the R4A is definitely OK, not way off like I had thought.

I think what it comes down to really is, the Friday evening I received
the R4B and hooked it up, the bands were in fairly exceptional
condition, in these days of unexceptional band conditions.  That's
really what it comes down to.

Even the airport weather around 10.1Mhz, the Saturday right after I
got the R4B, several stations were booming in on that frequency, as
was WWV at 10Mhz, while this morning, for contrast, WWV was there but
not strong, and I could not hear the weather stations at all.

   Chuck, K1OM


On Sat, Apr 18, 2009 at 1:44 PM, Chuck Grandgent  wrote:
> Excellent suggestions, all.
>
> I'm going to print them all out and go through it methodically.
> I do have a URM-25D in good calibration.
> So I'll make some notes as I go along, and note its performance before I
> muck with it.
>
> I do feel a bit foolish, when I got home and unpacked it and powered it up,
> I guess band conditions were very good, a bit quieter on the bands this
> morning :)
>
> Thanks to all,
>
>    Chuck, K1OM
>
> On Sat, Apr 18, 2009 at 10:11 AM, Garey Barrell 
> wrote:
>>
>> Chuck -
>>
>> Depending upon the s/n of your R-4A, the two receivers are almost
>> identical, electrically.  So there is a reason for the apparent difference!
>>
>> 1.  Check the voltage, with a HIGH-Z meter, (not a cheapy DMM,) at TP-2.
>>  On top of the chassis, under the Passband Tuner shaft.  Should be -1.35
>> VDC, and this sets the sensitivity of the receiver.  If you have done AGC
>> work, you probably know this, but ...
>>
>> 2.  Check that the S-Meter ZERO is correct, and that the meter reads 60 dB
>> over S9, (full scale,) with the RF GAIN at full CCW.
>>
>> 3.  Most likely weak tubes are V4 and V5, since this is where most of the
>> receiver gain is.
>>
>> Finally, one of the "problems" with the Drake receivers is their excellent
>> AGC system.  The basic system is so good, that ALL signals seem to be at
>> about the same level in the speaker, and you have only the S-Meter to tell
>> you which are the strong ones and which are the weak ones.
>>
>> Really the only way to compare the receivers is with a calibrated signal
>> generator.   I really like the little XG-1/2 by Elecraft or the S9 by
>> NORCAL.  Both give you a known 1 uV signal ( ~S1-2) and a known 50 uV signal
>> (S-9) at various frequencies.  You just have to tie a long piece of yarn or
>> something to them to keep from losing them on the bench!
>>
>> You can do a touch-up alignment in about ten minutes, using the Calibrator
>> and the S-Meter.  Typically the transformers do NOT need adjustment, and a
>> simple peaking of the trimmers for the RF, MIXER and PREMIXER stages are all
>> that is needed.
>>
>> 73, Garey - K4OAH
>> Glen Allen, VA
>>
>> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>> Chuck Grandgent wrote:
>>>
>>> Well the purpose of this post is twofold:
>>>
>>> First, despite periodic negative reports about the eB** place, I wanted
>>> to report my just received acquisition of a very nice R4B.  Decent price,
>>> decent shipping charge, very well packed, nicely bound copy of the R4B
>>> manual plus misc other relevant R4x articles, received approx three days
>>> from the end of the bidding (USPS Priority). I don't recognize the call from
>>> being on this list, so I won't identify unless there's a reason to.  In
>>> short, I couldn't be more pleased.
>>>
>>> The second reason for the post is about my R4A, and the diff between it
>>> and he R4B.
>>> I have to say, I have been happy with the R4A over the appro 10 years I
>>> have owned it.  I have ha

Re: [Drakelist] new R4B member of the family

[Chuck Grandgent]

Excellent suggestions, all.

I'm going to print them all out and go through it methodically.
I do have a URM-25D in good calibration.
So I'll make some notes as I go along, and note its performance before I
muck with it.

I do feel a bit foolish, when I got home and unpacked it and powered it up,
I guess band conditions were very good, a bit quieter on the bands this
morning :)

Thanks to all,

   Chuck, K1OM

On Sat, Apr 18, 2009 at 10:11 AM, Garey Barrell wrote:

> Chuck -
>
> Depending upon the s/n of your R-4A, the two receivers are almost
> identical, electrically.  So there is a reason for the apparent difference!
>
> 1.  Check the voltage, with a HIGH-Z meter, (not a cheapy DMM,) at TP-2.
>  On top of the chassis, under the Passband Tuner shaft.  Should be -1.35
> VDC, and this sets the sensitivity of the receiver.  If you have done AGC
> work, you probably know this, but ...
>
> 2.  Check that the S-Meter ZERO is correct, and that the meter reads 60 dB
> over S9, (full scale,) with the RF GAIN at full CCW.
>
> 3.  Most likely weak tubes are V4 and V5, since this is where most of the
> receiver gain is.
>
> Finally, one of the "problems" with the Drake receivers is their excellent
> AGC system.  The basic system is so good, that ALL signals seem to be at
> about the same level in the speaker, and you have only the S-Meter to tell
> you which are the strong ones and which are the weak ones.
>
> Really the only way to compare the receivers is with a calibrated signal
> generator.   I really like the little XG-1/2 by Elecraft or the S9 by
> NORCAL.  Both give you a known 1 uV signal ( ~S1-2) and a known 50 uV signal
> (S-9) at various frequencies.  You just have to tie a long piece of yarn or
> something to them to keep from losing them on the bench!
>
> You can do a touch-up alignment in about ten minutes, using the Calibrator
> and the S-Meter.  Typically the transformers do NOT need adjustment, and a
> simple peaking of the trimmers for the RF, MIXER and PREMIXER stages are all
> that is needed.
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
>
>
> Chuck Grandgent wrote:
>
>> Well the purpose of this post is twofold:
>>
>> First, despite periodic negative reports about the eB** place, I wanted to
>> report my just received acquisition of a very nice R4B.  Decent price,
>> decent shipping charge, very well packed, nicely bound copy of the R4B
>> manual plus misc other relevant R4x articles, received approx three days
>> from the end of the bidding (USPS Priority). I don't recognize the call from
>> being on this list, so I won't identify unless there's a reason to.  In
>> short, I couldn't be more pleased.
>>
>> The second reason for the post is about my R4A, and the diff between it
>> and he R4B.
>> I have to say, I have been happy with the R4A over the appro 10 years I
>> have owned it.  I have had to do a fair amount of work on it in the AGC
>> section, but I have done lots of great QSO's with it.  And to be fair, it
>> lives in my garage, here in No. Florida, and what with the heat, humidity,
>> and insects, it has not had an easy life.
>>
>> Anyway, my first impressioin on powering up the R4B is, that it is SO MUCH
>> MORE SENSITIVE than my R4A, including the S-meter response.  Nevermind that
>> the switches seem a lot cleaner, the tuning knob spins easier, etc..
>>
>> So anyway, I wanted to ask, where would you first begin to look in the R4A
>> to account for the difference in sensitivity between it and the R4B I just
>> got ?  I have checked all tube pin voltages, and they do agree closely with
>> what they should be, and I believe the tubes are OK.
>>
>>   Chuck, K1OM, Alachua, FL
>>
>>
>>
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[Drakelist] new R4B member of the family

[Chuck Grandgent]

Well the purpose of this post is twofold:

First, despite periodic negative reports about the eB** place, I wanted to
report my just received acquisition of a very nice R4B.  Decent price,
decent shipping charge, very well packed, nicely bound copy of the R4B
manual plus misc other relevant R4x articles, received approx three days
from the end of the bidding (USPS Priority). I don't recognize the call from
being on this list, so I won't identify unless there's a reason to.  In
short, I couldn't be more pleased.

The second reason for the post is about my R4A, and the diff between it and
he R4B.
I have to say, I have been happy with the R4A over the appro 10 years I have
owned it.  I have had to do a fair amount of work on it in the AGC section,
but I have done lots of great QSO's with it.  And to be fair, it lives in my
garage, here in No. Florida, and what with the heat, humidity, and insects,
it has not had an easy life.

Anyway, my first impressioin on powering up the R4B is, that it is SO MUCH
MORE SENSITIVE than my R4A, including the S-meter response.  Nevermind that
the switches seem a lot cleaner, the tuning knob spins easier, etc..

So anyway, I wanted to ask, where would you first begin to look in the R4A
to account for the difference in sensitivity between it and the R4B I just
got ?  I have checked all tube pin voltages, and they do agree closely with
what they should be, and I believe the tubes are OK.

   Chuck, K1OM, Alachua, FL
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[Drakelist] pitfalls of having the shack in the garage

[Chuck Grandgent]

Birdies made NEST inside my MS4/AC3, they were still at it this morning.
Good thing I noticed, this would have caused a fire for sure.

http://www.chuckg.com/nest.jpg

   Chuck, K1OM

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Re: [Drakelist] Article in April 2009 QST

[Chuck Grandgent]

But, a good point  If not THIS article, WHICH article IS the April Fools
article ?

   Chuck, K1OM

On Tue, Mar 17, 2009 at 9:34 PM, Jim Shorney  wrote:

> On Tue, 17 Mar 2009 19:50:09 -0500, richard radke wrote:
>
> >maybe it's the annual "spoof" article in the April Fools issue.
>
> It's real. The author has had a web page up about this rig for a while
> now. The article is also on Ron's site:
>
> http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/THE_DRAKE_TR7_RENEWED.pdf
>
> 73
>
> -Jim
>
>
> --
> Ham Radio NU0C
> Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
> TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A,
> GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!
>
> "Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and
> he will learn for a lifetime."
>
> HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
> http://radiojim.exofire.net
> http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
> http://www.nebraskaghosts.org
>
>
>
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Re: [Drakelist] t4x case type

[Chuck Grandgent]

Alright, I put the flashlight on them,
one of my T4X's and my R4A ** ARE ** textured,
but my other T4X is definitely NOT textured.

Who knows ?  Maybe somebody repainted my cabinet before I bought it...
But I'm sure someone on the list knows exactly what serial numbers
were / were not textured :)

   Chuck, K1OM

On Thu, Dec 25, 2008 at 8:11 PM, Carey Lockhart  wrote:
> Chuck,
> thats strange. i wonder why they did that? the r-4a i have is textured. is
> yours?
> Carey Lockhart, KC5GTT
> kc5...@gmail.com
> www.kc5gtt.com
>
>
> On Dec 25, 2008, at 7:03 PM, Chuck Grandgent wrote:
>
> seems pretty smooth on the two that I have.
>Chuck, K1OM
> On Thu, Dec 25, 2008 at 7:57 PM, Carey Lockhart  wrote:
>
> hi gang and merry christmas
> does the t-4x have the splatter paint job or a smooth paint on the case?
> Carey Lockhart, KC5GTT
> kc5...@gmail.com
> www.kc5gtt.com
>
>
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[Drakelist] receiver loses signal after keying transmitter

[Chuck Grandgent]

OK, here's one...

This has happened intermittently before, but now seems to be happening more
consistently.

T4X / R4A - turn them both on, R4A working fine, good signal strength.
Key the transmitter (key or mic), after which signals disappear in the R4A.
You can just about hear them down in the mud, but essentially gone.

Doesn't make a difference whether transceive set to RX or TX or Separate.
Nor doesn't make a difference whether set to external mute or not.

One time it happened, I keyed the mic for a second, and the RX was OK again.
Now doing that isn't helping.

For a few times I thought the band was disappearing on me, but now I know
that's not it.

Guess I'll dig out the T4X schematic and check that switching.

   Chuck, K1OM
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Re: [Drakelist] R4B price ?

[Chuck Grandgent]

Good idea Doug.

I got my current Drakes off Epay, two T4X's and an R4A, and have been very
happy.
But that was a while ago, and Epay seems to have gotten worse, not better,
since then.

Last night I was willing to go maybe $230, but was surprised it went to
$511.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Wed, Sep 24, 2008 at 12:13 PM, Doug Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I would say no -- not normal.  I'd guess a couple of guys *really* wanted
> that R4-B.
>
> Sometimes I'll track closing prices on various pieces of gear that I'm
> contemplating buying.  I haven't tracked the receivers for about a year but
> at that time R4-B prices were averaging $178.  But, that was with only 3
> data points.  The high was $233.  Probably higher now.
>
> Closing prices tend to be all over the map depending on how well the seller
> presents his item, the sellers reputation, the sun spot cycle, etc. etc.
>
> For example, lately, I've been watching T-4XC prices (thinking of picking
> up a spare).  And, with 24 data points:
> Low:$153
> Avg:$272
> High:   $580
>
> With 72 data points, the L-4B:
> Low:$350
> Avg:$722
> High:   $1200
>
> With 71 data points, the MN-2000:
> Low:$75
> Avg:$217
> High:   $345
>
> My strategy is to look for really nice gear at average prices.  The
> spreadsheet helps me know what is a good deal and what isn't.
>
> There is a fairly continuous stream of Drake gear for sale there and here
> on the list.  Be patient and the right receiver, at the right price, will
> come your way.
>
> 73,
> -Doug, W7KF
>
>
> Chuck Grandgent wrote:
>
>> I have R4A, thought I might be interested in getting an R4B.
>> There was an average looking one on the E place last night that went for
>> over $500, is that normal ?
>>
>>   Chuck, K1OM
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
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[Drakelist] R4B price ?

[Chuck Grandgent]

I have R4A, thought I might be interested in getting an R4B.
There was an average looking one on the E place last night that went for
over $500, is that normal ?

   Chuck, K1OM
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Re: [drakelist] El-Cheapo (and El-SIMPLO!) CW Filter

[Chuck Grandgent]

Bah, my apologies to the list, it works out on the nose,
sorry for the wasted bandwidth.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Sat, Jul 26, 2008 at 8:08 PM, Chuck Grandgent <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> never mind, I had 88uH instead of mH.  But that still gives 1200Hz, not
> 380...
>Chuck, K1OM
>
>
> On Sat, Jul 26, 2008 at 7:44 PM, Chuck Grandgent <
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> what am I doing wrong ?
>> 1/(2*pi * square root of (LC)) (from memory), with those values I get
>> 12000hz
>>
>>Chuck, K1OM
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 20, 2008 at 2:25 PM, EP Swynar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>>>  Hi All,
>>>
>>> Saving --- and READING! --- past issues of old radio magazines can be
>>> certainly worth the space and effort...
>>>
>>> To-day, in the October 1970 issue of HAM RADIO (pp. 44 - 46), I stumbled
>>> upon a short piece by W4NVK entitled, "The Simplest Audio Filter".
>>>
>>> And simple it is, indeed...!
>>>
>>> Following the parameters therein for a 380-Hz CW audio frequency, I
>>> connected an 88-mH torroid coil in series with a 2-ufd. capacitor in the
>>> speaker lead of my Drake R-4 receiver...the results are REALLY quite
>>> amazing, and surprisingly effective.
>>>
>>> There are parameters given for CW frequencies of 1200-Hz, down to 380-Hz,
>>> but my ear prefers the lower tones, so I stuck with those particular values.
>>>
>>> If you have a spare 88-mH toroid laying about, along with some extra
>>> capacitors, this is a GREAT, easy-to-add-on adjunct that will only enhance
>>> the CW performance of your vintage commercial rig, or homebrewed
>>> creation...and it's OH SO EASY!
>>>
>>> ~73~ Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ
>>>
>>
>>
>

Re: [drakelist] El-Cheapo (and El-SIMPLO!) CW Filter

[Chuck Grandgent]

never mind, I had 88uH instead of mH.  But that still gives 1200Hz, not
380...
   Chuck, K1OM

On Sat, Jul 26, 2008 at 7:44 PM, Chuck Grandgent <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> what am I doing wrong ?
> 1/(2*pi * square root of (LC)) (from memory), with those values I get
> 12000hz
>
>Chuck, K1OM
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 20, 2008 at 2:25 PM, EP Swynar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>>  Hi All,
>>
>> Saving --- and READING! --- past issues of old radio magazines can be
>> certainly worth the space and effort...
>>
>> To-day, in the October 1970 issue of HAM RADIO (pp. 44 - 46), I stumbled
>> upon a short piece by W4NVK entitled, "The Simplest Audio Filter".
>>
>> And simple it is, indeed...!
>>
>> Following the parameters therein for a 380-Hz CW audio frequency, I
>> connected an 88-mH torroid coil in series with a 2-ufd. capacitor in the
>> speaker lead of my Drake R-4 receiver...the results are REALLY quite
>> amazing, and surprisingly effective.
>>
>> There are parameters given for CW frequencies of 1200-Hz, down to 380-Hz,
>> but my ear prefers the lower tones, so I stuck with those particular values.
>>
>> If you have a spare 88-mH toroid laying about, along with some extra
>> capacitors, this is a GREAT, easy-to-add-on adjunct that will only enhance
>> the CW performance of your vintage commercial rig, or homebrewed
>> creation...and it's OH SO EASY!
>>
>> ~73~ Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ
>>
>
>

Re: [drakelist] El-Cheapo (and El-SIMPLO!) CW Filter

[Chuck Grandgent]

what am I doing wrong ?
1/(2*pi * square root of (LC)) (from memory), with those values I get
12000hz

   Chuck, K1OM

On Sun, Jul 20, 2008 at 2:25 PM, EP Swynar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>  Hi All,
>
> Saving --- and READING! --- past issues of old radio magazines can be
> certainly worth the space and effort...
>
> To-day, in the October 1970 issue of HAM RADIO (pp. 44 - 46), I stumbled
> upon a short piece by W4NVK entitled, "The Simplest Audio Filter".
>
> And simple it is, indeed...!
>
> Following the parameters therein for a 380-Hz CW audio frequency, I
> connected an 88-mH torroid coil in series with a 2-ufd. capacitor in the
> speaker lead of my Drake R-4 receiver...the results are REALLY quite
> amazing, and surprisingly effective.
>
> There are parameters given for CW frequencies of 1200-Hz, down to 380-Hz,
> but my ear prefers the lower tones, so I stuck with those particular values.
>
> If you have a spare 88-mH toroid laying about, along with some extra
> capacitors, this is a GREAT, easy-to-add-on adjunct that will only enhance
> the CW performance of your vintage commercial rig, or homebrewed
> creation...and it's OH SO EASY!
>
> ~73~ Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ
>

Re: [drakelist] DMM recommendation

[Chuck Grandgent]

"Chuck Grandgent" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
My .02 worth -

I appreciate the comments on the value of an analog meter in some situations.

That said, I have to say I've had a Velleman DVM890 for a couple years
now (from Allelectronics), and am very happy with it, and at the price
a good value.

   Chuck, K1OM

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[drakelist] finished AC3 upgrade

[Chuck Grandgent]

Just finished my second AC3 upgrade with the wonderful kit from
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/drakeac4r.html

This one was significantly easier than the first one I did.  The first AC3 I
did had some ambiguous wire colors, so there was some confusion.  This AC3
seemed more aligned to the AC4 upgrade instructions.  I did note that in the
instructions there was mentioned a "white / orange" wire, and in this AC3 it
was simply orange.

My only other two cents worth are:
1) As I ended up doing with the first one, I have a filament transformer
hookup that gives me about a 15:1 reduction from line voltage, makes that
initial "snap crackle pop" voltage test a little less stressful

2) Even if 1) tests out OK, that doesn't mean at full voltage you might not
encounter some arcing at full voltage if something was in too close
proximity to something else.  On the first conversion I did, I had an
alligator clip from the DVM to the HV, and the clip placement was enough to
get some exciting arcing.  Also, take care to make sure nothing's sticking
out that might meet the bottom plate.

Again, a most satisfying project, thanks Mike !

   Chuck, K1OM, Alachua, FL

Re: [drakelist] Best Coax....

[Chuck Grandgent]

I had opined to Philip about RG8X that I personally have had very good luck
with it, including about a 50foot run that is buried and has been fine for
several years.
I wouldn't hit it with a lot of power, but I have a T4X so no prob.  My
motivation was cost.

73, Chuck, K1OM, Alachua, FL

On Mon, Jun 2, 2008 at 6:52 PM, WB4YQV <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>  Hello Gang...   What are the pro's & con's on RG-8X???   Charlie...
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Jim Shorney <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> *To:* drakelist@zerobeat.net
> *Sent:* Monday, June 02, 2008 6:45 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [drakelist] Best Coax
>
> "Jim Shorney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang
> --
> On Mon, 02 Jun 2008 15:48:13 -0500, Christopher Kovacs wrote:
>
> >Christopher Kovacs <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang
> >--
> >Philip Grocki wrote:
> >> *I have a TR-4C and just getting into the ham "scene" again.
> >> I'm setting-up my new station and wondering what is the best
> >> all-around coax for vertical and beam antennas with this rig?  I'm
> >> thinking RG-8/U.please advise.  Thank you.*
> >
> >Take a look at LMR240 coax.  It's little stiff.  They also have an
> >ultraflex version (little more loss).  It's about the size of RG-8/x.
>
> LMR240 is great stuff, but is overkill for HF. Good old Belden 8214 RG-8
> will do quite nicely, and is better
> suited for the "rotor loop" if using a beam antenna.
>
> 73
>
> -Jim
> NU0C
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Submissions:drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body
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>
>

Re: [RE][drakelist] Request Drake users experience, opinions and comments for an all

[Chuck Grandgent]

"Chuck Grandgent" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I'll put a vote in for the Radio Works Carolina Windom, by far best
antenna I've ever had (compared to the dipoles and verticals I've
had).  I use the T4X barefoot, so no power problems with it.  Can
finally do 160meters, which was a boyhood dream (wanted a rhombic)
that I was never able to fulfill because of lack of real estate, no
longer a problem.

I use it with the MN-4 and tunes up great on all bands.  On 160 it is
connected "direct", but it appears my MN4 was modified with a switch
on the back for extra capacitance, I have to investigate that some
more to see if I can tune the MN4 properly on 160, though it tunes up
fine without it with low SWR.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Sun, Mar 30, 2008 at 6:39 PM, Joe Roth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I've been VERY pleased with my OCF dipole from Buckmaster. 6-80 no tuner 
> needed. Handles my L4B and Commander HF-2500 at full tilt.Simple antenna, 
> pleasing to the neighbor's eye. Super simple set up.
>  Had the Radio Works Carolina Windom. Worked good until I blew the line 
> isolator.
>  Joe
>
>
>  -[ Received Mail Content ]--
>
>   Subject : [drakelist] Request Drake users experience, opinions and comments 
> for an all band HF Antennas
>
>   Date : Sun, 30 Mar 2008 14:19:58 -0700 (PDT)
>
>   From : Karl Corder <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>   To : [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>  Karl Corder  made an utterance to the drakelist gang
>  --
>
>  After having my current antenna removed due to a
>  proposed house addition,
>  I am ready to Install another antenna, but would like
>  for it to be
>  a "optimum antenna "so I don't have to keep
>  experimenting
>  ie. fooling around with them.
>
>  Would really like Drake users recommendations,
>  opinions, comments
>   for a all band (160 through 10 meter) Antenna i.e.
>  low VSWR,
>  broad band, house and neighborhood friendly, and be
>  able to take output from a TX4 LB4 MN2000 set up.
>
>  Previous experience has been: not much luck with
>  verticals However
>   it could have been my fault as I never had more
>  than 8 radials,
>   and no attention to decent grounding.
>
>  A Recent excellent antenna presentation at the
>  Rochester Radio club
>   talked only on Verticals this was due to their
>  low angle of radiation.
>   Several verticals were mentioned specially the
>  AV-18HT, However
>   no had one.
>
>  I know this isn't an antenna net but it's the only net
>  I use and Drake
>  folks on this net seem to be very knowledgeable.
>
>  Thank you -Karl WA2OVJ
>
>
>
>
>   
> 
>  You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster 
> Total Access, No Cost.
>  http://tc.deals.yahoo.com/tc/blockbuster/text5.com
>
>
>  --
>  Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>  Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body
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>  Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
>  --
>
>
>
>  www.wc4r.com
>  www.rothweb.net
>  www.williamsburgwx.com

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Re: [drakelist] Drake Technical Net

[Chuck Grandgent]

"Chuck Grandgent" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
It WAS 3PM, but now it's
4PM EDT.
   Chuck, K1OM

On Sun, Mar 30, 2008 at 7:15 PM, Mark Pilant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>  Mark Pilant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
>  --
>  Just a question about the time.  The WB4HFN Drake home page
>  says the time is 3:00 EST.  I listened at 3:00 EDT and didn't
>  hear anything.  So the question is, is the time really 2000Z?
>  Did I simply mis it by an hour?
>
>  Thanks in advance.
>
>  73
>
>  - Mark  N1VQW
>
>  --
>  Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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>  --
>

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Re: [drakelist] OA2 / OB2 failure modes

[Chuck Grandgent]

"Chuck Grandgent" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Wow.

In this case I'm suspecting that the tube itself had problems, as the
"new" one behaves much different.

However, I will certainly check R100, R101, etc., and generally poke around.

Thanks !

   Chuck, K1OM

On Sat, Mar 29, 2008 at 7:07 PM, Dennis Monticelli
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>  "Dennis Monticelli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist 
> gang
>  --
>  Overload occurs after the entire cathode (inside of the cylinder) has
>  been lit. At this point the tube is saturated and any additional
>  current will cause the regulated voltage to significantly rise and
>  thus overheat the tube shortening its life.  But your tube had some
>  flicker.  Flicker is caused by small regions of negative resistance in
>  the current vs voltage curve ("pips")that develop over time.  The
>  discharge jumps from one region to the other on the cathode, hence the
>  flicker.  I have seen this before and there are two solutions.  One,
>  change the current through the tube to a different level (higher of
>  lower) to get away from the negative resistance region.  Be sure to
>  stay within current ratings if you do this..  Two, just replace the
>  tube as you did. Flicker causes noise in a receiver and can give an
>  interesting light dance in a dark room.   I had this occur in my TO
>  Keyer.
>
>  I have also seen the flicker accompanied by a bright localized
>  discharge (just like you described); not to be confused with the
>  localized dull orange region of a tube operating just above minimum
>  current.  I don't know what causes that but I'm guessing gas has
>  intruded or been internally outgassed and that gas has contaminated
>  the pure existing gas causing the ionization path to become
>  concentrated (ie. bright).  I experienced this in my R4B, and let me
>  tell you, it was quite a light show.  It scared me enough to abruptly
>  kill the power thinking there was a tube that had developed an
>  internal short.  A new regulator tube fixed the problem.
>
>  So these simple regulator tubes are not so simple after all when it
>  comes to failure mechanisms.
>
>  Dennis AE6C
>
>
>
>  On Sat, Mar 29, 2008 at 2:58 PM, Chuck Grandgent
>  <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>  >
>  >  "Chuck Grandgent" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist 
> gang
>  >  --
>
>
> >  I'd noticed my OB2 in my R4A starting to flash or flicker bright
>  >  orange, maybe a little reddish tint.  First only at startup, then more
>  >  and more.
>  >
>  >  So I got a "new" OB2 and now have only a continuous orange glow from
>  >  the base area, without any flickering.
>  >
>  >  What precisely are the failure modes of these regulator tubes ?
>  >
>  >Chuck, K1OM
>  >
>
>
> >  --
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>  >  --
>  >
>
>  --
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>

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[drakelist] OA2 / OB2 failure modes

[Chuck Grandgent]

"Chuck Grandgent" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I'd noticed my OB2 in my R4A starting to flash or flicker bright
orange, maybe a little reddish tint.  First only at startup, then more
and more.

So I got a "new" OB2 and now have only a continuous orange glow from
the base area, without any flickering.

What precisely are the failure modes of these regulator tubes ?

   Chuck, K1OM

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Re: [drakelist] R4 headset impedance ?

[Chuck Grandgent]

Gotten a number of responses, so I'm OK now, thanks to all.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Thu, Mar 20, 2008 at 9:44 PM, Gary Poland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>  Chuck,
>I believe you will need a headset of between 200 to 600 ohms. I use
> aircraft headsets. If you use an 8 ohm headset you will need to install a
> 100 resistor in series or you will get hum on the audio.
>
> 73, Gary
>

[drakelist] R4 headset impedance ?

[Chuck Grandgent]

quick look in the book didn't show or I missed it, what impedance for R4
headset ?

   Chuck, K1OM

[drakelist] great items for old fogies

[Chuck Grandgent]

Got a couple items from Allelectronics that I am really happy with:

"HEAD MOUNTED MAGNIFIER", $4.95 - Seen this item for years, finally ordered
one.  3 combinations of lenses.
My eyesight is fine, but I can't believe how much easier it makes the job
working on my Drakes.

"DIGITAL ON-TIMER ", $5.00 - This is apparently the timer guts from a Mr.
Coffee.
Forgot and left the soldering iron on TOO MANY TIMES recently, but no more.
Now it'll shut off after two hours unless I intervene.

   Chuck, K1OM

Re: [drakelist] R4A, S-meter no longer working

[Chuck Grandgent]

Actually it's 6987G.
And 22k across primary of T10, and no R142.
And you mention "R4B Version 1, s/n 7000+ has R146 (22k), R142 (4.7k) in
series, and C159 (0.01) bypass", so that explains the 22k resistor.

The C159 failure has been happening over time, to the point where when I
first turned it on, it would be quite dead, but usually it would clear up.
I thought it was dirty bandswitch contacts or something.
Then I noticed the S-meter not working, and it wasn't that along that it
did, but hard to remember.

What's that letter after the serial # ?

   Chuck, K1OM

On Feb 17, 2008 10:06 AM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang
> --
> Chuck -
>
> Great!  That's very interesting that your VERY late serial number of
> 6987, which would make it one of the very last R-4As made, (the R-4B
> started at 7000,) would not match any of the Version schematics.
>
> Version 1, s/n 2007+ has R97 (33k) across the primary of T10, R26 (4.7k)
> in series, and C74 (0.01) bypass.
>
> Version 2, s/n 3040+ has the same
>
> Version 3, s/n 4054+ has ONLY C154 (0.1) bypass
>
> Version 4, s/n 5400+ has   xxx, R142 (4.7k) in series, and C159
> (0.01) bypass
>
> Looks like Drake never did figure out just what to do with that circuit!
>
> The first R-4B had
>
> Version 1, s/n 7000+ has R146 (22k), R142 (4.7k) in series, and C159
> (0.01) bypass
>
> and stayed that way through the remaining two versions of R-4B
> production.  I'm wondering if they came to the conclusion that in
> addition to improving the filter "blow-by" the 4.7k resistor would also
> protect transformer T10 in case of a plate-suppressor short in V5, a not
> uncommon occurrence with those tubes.  Might not be a bad idea to add it.
>
> Yes, I imagine it IS a bit hotter receiver with the 2nd IF Amp actually
> amplifying instead of just being a coupling capacitor!  A testament to
> the AVC circuit of these receivers.
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
>
> Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> > WaHoo !
> > That was it, C159 was way leaky, and my version does not have R142, so
> > that added some confusion.
> >
> > S-meter's working great and receiver's hotter than I can recall in
> > recent memory !
> >
> > As always, thanks Garey,
> >
> >Chuck, K1OM
> >
> > On Feb 16, 2008 11:13 AM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> > made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> >
> --
> > Chuck -
> >
> > I was just typing my last as you were sending yours...Great
> minds,
> > etc.:-)
> >
> > Nothing like having the right schematic.  C159 is a 0.01 disc
> > ceramic in this version.
> >
> > R142 likely has gone way up in value or cracked.  Not in the earlier
> > schematic I was looking at.
> >
> > Schematic in separate message off reflector.
> >
> > 73, Garey - K4OAH
> > Glen Allen, VA
> >
> > Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> > http://www.k4oah.com>>
> >
> >
> >
> > Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> > > C159 was definitely bad Garey, replaced that and now I have
> S-meter
> > > action.
> > > However I still have no plate voltage on V5, and for the life of
> > me I
> > > can't see how it's wired for it.  It seems to have a 22k resistor
> > > across T10 on the V5 plate side, and other than that and the
> > > connection to C159, I don't see how it gets to any voltage, it's
> > like
> > > R142 is missing.
> > >
> > > My serial number is 6987.
> > >
> > >Chuck, K1OM
> > >
> > > On Feb 15, 2008 11:30 PM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>>
> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>>
> > &

Re: [drakelist] R4A, S-meter no longer working

[Chuck Grandgent]

WaHoo !
That was it, C159 was way leaky, and my version does not have R142, so that
added some confusion.

S-meter's working great and receiver's hotter than I can recall in recent
memory !

As always, thanks Garey,

   Chuck, K1OM

On Feb 16, 2008 11:13 AM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang
> --
> Chuck -
>
> I was just typing my last as you were sending yours...Great minds,
> etc.:-)
>
> Nothing like having the right schematic.  C159 is a 0.01 disc
> ceramic in this version.
>
> R142 likely has gone way up in value or cracked.  Not in the earlier
> schematic I was looking at.
>
> Schematic in separate message off reflector.
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
>
> Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> > C159 was definitely bad Garey, replaced that and now I have S-meter
> > action.
> > However I still have no plate voltage on V5, and for the life of me I
> > can't see how it's wired for it.  It seems to have a 22k resistor
> > across T10 on the V5 plate side, and other than that and the
> > connection to C159, I don't see how it gets to any voltage, it's like
> > R142 is missing.
> >
> > My serial number is 6987.
> >
> >Chuck, K1OM
> >
> > On Feb 15, 2008 11:30 PM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> > made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> >
> --
> > Chuck -
> >
> > C159 may be very leaky or shorted.   0.1 uF at 200V.  You may have a
> > fault in T10.  B+ is applied to V5 through the primary of T10 and
> one
> > end of the secondary is at ground.  Check DC voltages on either
> > side of
> > T10.  A plate-suppressor grid short in V5 could have smoked T10,
> > so use
> > a known good tube.
> >
> > The 6HS6 filament is just a filament wiring anomaly.   According
> > to s/n
> > 4054 schematic Pin 4 should be 6.3 and Pin 3 should be 0.  What is
> the
> > s/n of your R-4A?  I have the correct schematic.
> >
> > 73, Garey - K4OAH
> > Glen Allen, VA
> >
> > Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> > http://www.k4oah.com>>
> >
> >
> >
> > Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> > > The plot thickens.
> > > I checked resistance and voltage at all the pins for V2, V3, V4,
> V5.
> > > The two bads are:
> > >   1) V5 12BA6 pin 5 (plate), resistance is 150 ohms, s/b 10k.  And
> > > votage is 3 volts, s/b 110v
> > > I guess R41 and maybe R142 bear more checking, though if either of
> > > these went high, I can't account for the low plate to ground
> > > resistance through this fault.
> > > Swapped this tube also with no effect.
> > >
> > >   2) V2 6HS6, manual says pin 3 (filament) s/b 6.3, is zero and
> > pin 4
> > > (filament) s/b 12.6, is 6.4.  Looking at the schematic, not sure
> > what
> > > to make of that.  And actually I did swap between my two 6HS6's
> with
> > > no difference.
> > >
> > >Chuck, K1OM
> > >
> > > On Feb 10, 2008 6:54 PM, Chuck Grandgent
> > <[EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>> wrote:
> > >
> > > OK, got some time to spend on this today.
> > > R40, R41, R42, and R89 SEEMED to checkout OK.
> > > However, if I put a potentiometer across R41 and adjust it for
> a
> > > low value, I can get the S-meter to respond.  Then, the
> S-meter
> > > zero adjustment R42 can bring the S-meter to any level on
> > the meter.
> > > But, it seems totally non-responsive to any received signal.
> > >
> > > I was also able to adjust the receiver sensitivity
> potentiometer
> > > on the bottom so TP2 was minus 1.35 volts.
> > >
> > > I replaced V4, V5, and V3, with no discernable difference.  I
> > > 

Re: [drakelist] R4A, S-meter no longer working

[Chuck Grandgent]

C159 was definitely bad Garey, replaced that and now I have S-meter action.
However I still have no plate voltage on V5, and for the life of me I can't
see how it's wired for it.  It seems to have a 22k resistor across T10 on
the V5 plate side, and other than that and the connection to C159, I don't
see how it gets to any voltage, it's like R142 is missing.

My serial number is 6987.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Feb 15, 2008 11:30 PM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang
> --
> Chuck -
>
> C159 may be very leaky or shorted.   0.1 uF at 200V.  You may have a
> fault in T10.  B+ is applied to V5 through the primary of T10 and one
> end of the secondary is at ground.  Check DC voltages on either side of
> T10.  A plate-suppressor grid short in V5 could have smoked T10, so use
> a known good tube.
>
> The 6HS6 filament is just a filament wiring anomaly.   According to s/n
> 4054 schematic Pin 4 should be 6.3 and Pin 3 should be 0.  What is the
> s/n of your R-4A?  I have the correct schematic.
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
>
> Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> > The plot thickens.
> > I checked resistance and voltage at all the pins for V2, V3, V4, V5.
> > The two bads are:
> >   1) V5 12BA6 pin 5 (plate), resistance is 150 ohms, s/b 10k.  And
> > votage is 3 volts, s/b 110v
> > I guess R41 and maybe R142 bear more checking, though if either of
> > these went high, I can't account for the low plate to ground
> > resistance through this fault.
> > Swapped this tube also with no effect.
> >
> >   2) V2 6HS6, manual says pin 3 (filament) s/b 6.3, is zero and pin 4
> > (filament) s/b 12.6, is 6.4.  Looking at the schematic, not sure what
> > to make of that.  And actually I did swap between my two 6HS6's with
> > no difference.
> >
> >Chuck, K1OM
> >
> > On Feb 10, 2008 6:54 PM, Chuck Grandgent <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote:
> >
> > OK, got some time to spend on this today.
> > R40, R41, R42, and R89 SEEMED to checkout OK.
> > However, if I put a potentiometer across R41 and adjust it for a
> > low value, I can get the S-meter to respond.  Then, the S-meter
> > zero adjustment R42 can bring the S-meter to any level on the meter.
> > But, it seems totally non-responsive to any received signal.
> >
> > I was also able to adjust the receiver sensitivity potentiometer
> > on the bottom so TP2 was minus 1.35 volts.
> >
> > I replaced V4, V5, and V3, with no discernable difference.  I
> > didn't have a spare for V2 6HS6.
> >
> > What to check now ?
> >
> > Thanks,   Chuck, K1OM
> >
> >
> > On Feb 6, 2008 5:12 PM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> made an utterance to the
> > drakelist gang
> >
> --
> > Chuck -
> >
> > OK.  That's good!
> >
> >  From your description, the AVC circuitry is working...
> >
> > I don't have a good photo, but I bet three of the four
> > components are on
> > the board with the S-Meter Sensitivity pot, next to the
> > crystal.  R40
> > (1k Trim), R41 (820), R89 (560) and associated connections.  A
> > series of
> > ohmmeter checks should find it.  I'm betting R40 is open, or a
> > broken
> > wire/connection.  :-)
> >
> > 73, Garey - K4OAH
> > Glen Allen, VA
> >
> > Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs
> > http://www.k4oah.com>>
> >
> >
> >
> > Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> > > Thanks Garey,
> > >
> > > well the meter seems OK, the DMM on lowest resistance range
> > causes it
> > > to deflect a tad.  I had to repair the AVC switch at one
> > point, I
> > > guess I should check there, among other places.
> > >
> > >Chuck, K1OM
> > >
> > > On Feb 6, 2008 4:20 PM, 

Re: [drakelist] R4A, S-meter no longer working

[Chuck Grandgent]

The plot thickens.
I checked resistance and voltage at all the pins for V2, V3, V4, V5.
The two bads are:
  1) V5 12BA6 pin 5 (plate), resistance is 150 ohms, s/b 10k.  And votage is
3 volts, s/b 110v
I guess R41 and maybe R142 bear more checking, though if either of these
went high, I can't account for the low plate to ground resistance through
this fault.
Swapped this tube also with no effect.

  2) V2 6HS6, manual says pin 3 (filament) s/b 6.3, is zero and pin 4
(filament) s/b 12.6, is 6.4.  Looking at the schematic, not sure what to
make of that.  And actually I did swap between my two 6HS6's with no
difference.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Feb 10, 2008 6:54 PM, Chuck Grandgent <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> OK, got some time to spend on this today.
> R40, R41, R42, and R89 SEEMED to checkout OK.
> However, if I put a potentiometer across R41 and adjust it for a low
> value, I can get the S-meter to respond.  Then, the S-meter zero adjustment
> R42 can bring the S-meter to any level on the meter.
> But, it seems totally non-responsive to any received signal.
>
> I was also able to adjust the receiver sensitivity potentiometer on the
> bottom so TP2 was minus 1.35 volts.
>
> I replaced V4, V5, and V3, with no discernable difference.  I didn't have
> a spare for V2 6HS6.
>
> What to check now ?
>
> Thanks,   Chuck, K1OM
>
>
> On Feb 6, 2008 5:12 PM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> >
> > Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> > gang
> > --
> > Chuck -
> >
> > OK.  That's good!
> >
> >  From your description, the AVC circuitry is working...
> >
> > I don't have a good photo, but I bet three of the four components are on
> > the board with the S-Meter Sensitivity pot, next to the crystal.  R40
> > (1k Trim), R41 (820), R89 (560) and associated connections.  A series of
> > ohmmeter checks should find it.  I'm betting R40 is open, or a broken
> > wire/connection.  :-)
> >
> > 73, Garey - K4OAH
> > Glen Allen, VA
> >
> > Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs
> > 
> >
> >
> >
> > Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> > > Thanks Garey,
> > >
> > > well the meter seems OK, the DMM on lowest resistance range causes it
> > > to deflect a tad.  I had to repair the AVC switch at one point, I
> > > guess I should check there, among other places.
> > >
> > >Chuck, K1OM
> > >
> > > On Feb 6, 2008 4:20 PM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> > > made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> > >
> > --
> > > Chuck -
> > >
> > > The S-Meter is a simple bridge circuit that compares the plate
> > current
> > > of V2 and V3 with the plate current of V4 and V5.  There are only
> > two
> > > resistors and two trim-pots!  Since the radio seems to be working
> > more
> > > or less normally, those tubes are probably "good enough".  If the
> > > meter
> > > needle is just sitting there on the mechanical zero point, it's
> > most
> > > likely an "open" in that circuitry.  Just as a guess, I'd first
> > check
> > > the meter terminal connections, then wonder about the S-Meter
> > > Sensitivity pot, but it could be a bad connection or (YIKES!) an
> > open
> > > meter movement.  The movement itself is 3 mA, as are ALL the
> > R-4/T-4
> > > meters, so can be checked with a DMM for continuity.  Don't try to
> > > use a
> > > VOM, as they put too much current through the ohmmeter circuit.
> > >
> > > 73, Garey - K4OAH
> > > Glen Allen, VA
> > >
> > > Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs
> > > http://www.k4oah.com>>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> > > > R4A, S-meter was working OK, just noticed it is not right now,
> > don't
> > > > know for quite how long.
> > > >
> > > > AVC is working, as evidenced by turning RF gain all the way down
> > and
> > > > then back up, AVC slow takes very noticeably longer for the RF
> > > leve to
> > > > return once I turn up RF gain, compared to AVC fast.
> > > >
> > > > Adjusting R40 and R42 for S-meter and balance have zero effect,
> > > > S-meter is all the way to the left.
> > > >
> > > > Things to try ?
> > > >
> > > > Tnx, Chuck, K1OM
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > --
> > Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in
> > body
> > Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
> > Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
> > --
> >
>
>

Re: [drakelist] R4A, S-meter no longer working

[Chuck Grandgent]

OK, got some time to spend on this today.
R40, R41, R42, and R89 SEEMED to checkout OK.
However, if I put a potentiometer across R41 and adjust it for a low value,
I can get the S-meter to respond.  Then, the S-meter zero adjustment R42 can
bring the S-meter to any level on the meter.
But, it seems totally non-responsive to any received signal.

I was also able to adjust the receiver sensitivity potentiometer on the
bottom so TP2 was minus 1.35 volts.

I replaced V4, V5, and V3, with no discernable difference.  I didn't have a
spare for V2 6HS6.

What to check now ?

Thanks,   Chuck, K1OM

On Feb 6, 2008 5:12 PM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang
> --
> Chuck -
>
> OK.  That's good!
>
>  From your description, the AVC circuitry is working...
>
> I don't have a good photo, but I bet three of the four components are on
> the board with the S-Meter Sensitivity pot, next to the crystal.  R40
> (1k Trim), R41 (820), R89 (560) and associated connections.  A series of
> ohmmeter checks should find it.  I'm betting R40 is open, or a broken
> wire/connection.  :-)
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
>
> Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> > Thanks Garey,
> >
> > well the meter seems OK, the DMM on lowest resistance range causes it
> > to deflect a tad.  I had to repair the AVC switch at one point, I
> > guess I should check there, among other places.
> >
> >Chuck, K1OM
> >
> > On Feb 6, 2008 4:20 PM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> > made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> >
> --
> > Chuck -
> >
> > The S-Meter is a simple bridge circuit that compares the plate
> current
> > of V2 and V3 with the plate current of V4 and V5.  There are only
> two
> > resistors and two trim-pots!  Since the radio seems to be working
> more
> > or less normally, those tubes are probably "good enough".  If the
> > meter
> > needle is just sitting there on the mechanical zero point, it's most
> > likely an "open" in that circuitry.  Just as a guess, I'd first
> check
> > the meter terminal connections, then wonder about the S-Meter
> > Sensitivity pot, but it could be a bad connection or (YIKES!) an
> open
> > meter movement.  The movement itself is 3 mA, as are ALL the R-4/T-4
> > meters, so can be checked with a DMM for continuity.  Don't try to
> > use a
> > VOM, as they put too much current through the ohmmeter circuit.
> >
> > 73, Garey - K4OAH
> > Glen Allen, VA
> >
> > Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs
> > http://www.k4oah.com>>
> >
> >
> >
> > Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> > > R4A, S-meter was working OK, just noticed it is not right now,
> don't
> > > know for quite how long.
> > >
> > > AVC is working, as evidenced by turning RF gain all the way down
> and
> > > then back up, AVC slow takes very noticeably longer for the RF
> > leve to
> > > return once I turn up RF gain, compared to AVC fast.
> > >
> > > Adjusting R40 and R42 for S-meter and balance have zero effect,
> > > S-meter is all the way to the left.
> > >
> > > Things to try ?
> > >
> > > Tnx, Chuck, K1OM
> > >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body
> Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
> Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
> --
>

Re: [drakelist] R4A, S-meter no longer working

[Chuck Grandgent]

Thanks Garey,

well the meter seems OK, the DMM on lowest resistance range causes it to
deflect a tad.  I had to repair the AVC switch at one point, I guess I
should check there, among other places.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Feb 6, 2008 4:20 PM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang
> --
> Chuck -
>
> The S-Meter is a simple bridge circuit that compares the plate current
> of V2 and V3 with the plate current of V4 and V5.  There are only two
> resistors and two trim-pots!  Since the radio seems to be working more
> or less normally, those tubes are probably "good enough".  If the meter
> needle is just sitting there on the mechanical zero point, it's most
> likely an "open" in that circuitry.  Just as a guess, I'd first check
> the meter terminal connections, then wonder about the S-Meter
> Sensitivity pot, but it could be a bad connection or (YIKES!) an open
> meter movement.  The movement itself is 3 mA, as are ALL the R-4/T-4
> meters, so can be checked with a DMM for continuity.  Don't try to use a
> VOM, as they put too much current through the ohmmeter circuit.
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
>
> Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> > R4A, S-meter was working OK, just noticed it is not right now, don't
> > know for quite how long.
> >
> > AVC is working, as evidenced by turning RF gain all the way down and
> > then back up, AVC slow takes very noticeably longer for the RF leve to
> > return once I turn up RF gain, compared to AVC fast.
> >
> > Adjusting R40 and R42 for S-meter and balance have zero effect,
> > S-meter is all the way to the left.
> >
> > Things to try ?
> >
> > Tnx, Chuck, K1OM
> >
> >
>
> --
> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body
> Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
> Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
> --
>

[drakelist] list test email

[Chuck Grandgent]

just a test, are my emails to the list getting thru ?

tnx, Chuck, K1OM

[drakelist] R4A, S-meter no longer working

[Chuck Grandgent]

R4A, S-meter was working OK, just noticed it is not right now, don't know
for quite how long.

AVC is working, as evidenced by turning RF gain all the way down and then
back up, AVC slow takes very noticeably longer for the RF leve to return
once I turn up RF gain, compared to AVC fast.

Adjusting R40 and R42 for S-meter and balance have zero effect, S-meter is
all the way to the left.

Things to try ?

Tnx, Chuck, K1OM

[drakelist] transceive off RX vs off TX

[Chuck Grandgent]

When I transceive off the RX as opposed to the TX, the RX sig level is
significantly higher than when I transceive of the TX.
Any ideas ?

I am using authentic T4X to R4A cables.

Chuck, K1OM, Alachua, FL

Re: OT Re: [drakelist] Velcro Insanity

[Chuck Grandgent]

I use the "industrial duty" stuff happily too, but get mine at the hardware
store.
But here in Florida the heat has led to one unit "sliding" a good 3 inches
"downhill" towards the windshield over time, but it finally found a happy
spot and stopped moving.
Left a bit of a glue trail, but I don't see it as a big problem.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Jan 12, 2008 4:37 PM, Richard Arland, W3OSS <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

>
> "Richard Arland, W3OSS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to
> the drakelist gang
> --
> Yes...a little help with a hair dryer or heat gun on LOW will get them
> sticky enough to peel off.
>
> 73 R
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 1:57 PM
> Subject: Re: OT Re: [drakelist] Velcro Insanity
>
>
> |
> | "Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> | --
> | Rich..
> |
> | Have you tried to remove the SuperLock fasteners
> | afterwards ?
> |
> | Wonder if they are on for the life of the car ?
> |
> | Jim / W1FMR
> |
> |
> | --- "Richard Arland, W3OSS"
> | <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> |
> | >
> | > "Richard Arland, W3OSS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> | > made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> | >
> | --
> | > Currently I am doing an install on my wife's 2007
> | > Nissan Pathfinder. Plenty
> | > of room for gear but nothing to firmly anchor to.
> | > She specifies "no holes".
> | > So I turn to my secret weapon, R-S Superlock
> | > Fasteners.
> | >
> | > I have used these "industrial strength" hook and eye
> | > fasteners for many
> | > installations. The R-S part number is 64-2360
> | > "Hi-Temp/Hi-Strength Superlock
> | > Fasteners". I have yet to have a piece of radio gear
> | > (control head, speaker,
> | > mic hanger, radio, etc) get loose and roll around.
> | >
> | > Don't forget to use some alcohol wipe pads to prep
> | > both surfaces and get rid
> | > of any Armorall, silicone spray, finger grease, act.
> | > This will insure that
> | > the hook and eye fasteners stay put no matter what
> | > the inside temp of the
> | > vehicle goes to.
> | >
> | > GL and have fun
> | >
> | > vy 73
> | >
> | > Rich W3OSS
> | >
> | > | Subject: OT Re: [drakelist] Velcro Insanity
> | >
> | >
> | > |
> | > | "Jim Shorney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an
> | > utterance to the drakelist
> | > gang
> | > |
> | >
> | --
> | > | On Sat, 12 Jan 2008 01:20:13 -0500, wb4yqv wrote:
> | > |
> | > | >Try Radio Shack...   They have a clear version
> | > that will not turn
> | > loose...
> | > |
> | > | Thanks, I'll check that out if the Velcro brand
> | > stuff gives up completely.
> | > |
> | > | FWIW, I'm trying to attach a Kenwood control head
> | > to a vertical space on a
> | > | vinyl dash. The head is not heavy, the dash is not
> | > the smooth, flat
> | > surface
> | > | that these adhesives prefer.
> | > |
> | >
> | >
> | >
> | --
> | > Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> | > Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] -
> | > unsubscribe drakelist in body
> | > Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in
> | > body of message
> | > Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by
> | > www.tlchost.net
> | >
> | --
> | >
> |
> |
> | --
> | Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> | Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in
> body
> | Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
> | Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
> | --
>
>
> --
> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body
> Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
> Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
> --
>

Re: [drakelist] Cooling Fan on finals

[Chuck Grandgent]

Thanks to the list for this idea, made a good morning project.
I'd found a junk PC fan just the right size, and found a 5V wall wart from
an old cellphone, and even the right long screws which threaded into the fan
just right.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Dec 26, 2007 1:33 PM, Howard Traxler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> "Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the
> drakelist gang
> --
> Well yes, I'm sure it will live longer; not sure about prosper.  A friend
> gave me that thought in 1969; just a "something to think about".  He's
> dead
> now.  Thought I'd throw it out for comments and I got some, thanks.  I
> think
> I'll look for a couple little fans.
>
> WA9RYF
> - Original Message -
> From: "Dennis Monticelli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 12:01 AM
> Subject: Re: [drakelist] Cooling Fan on finals
>
>
> :
> : "Dennis Monticelli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to
> the
> drakelist gang
> : --
> : Just a moderate amount of air assist makes a big difference in terms
> : of reducing peak component temp, reducing temp gradients, and
> : minimizing temp change between TX and RX modes.
> :
> : As for the Drakes being built to run at that elevated temp and
> : performing worse if run cooler, I find that very hard to believe.  The
> : only scientific basis I can find for it (and a weak argument at that)
> : is non-linear temp correction was used in the design.  In other words,
> : parabolic parameter change with temp for certain temp compensation
> : components was established at a given elevated temp.  But this degree
> : of sophistication of temp correction was probably beyond the bag of
> : tricks at the disposal of the Drake designers at the time.  And it
> : does not explain that temp reduction properly done will also reduce
> : temp change and that helps out any circuit, however the temp
> : compensation is performed.
> :
> : Bottom line, cool the sucker.  It will live long and prosper.
> :
> : Dennis AE6C
> :
> : On Dec 24, 2007 9:11 PM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> : >
> : > Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the
> drakelist
> gang
> : > --
> : > Peter -
> : >
> : > I haven't, but I can tell you that the cabinet top of the T-4X(any)
> can
> : > be too hot to comfortably hold you hand on it after extended
> : > transmission, especially on high duty cycle modes such as RTTY and AM.
> : > Even on CW or SSB this area can get quite warm.  Of course this is
> even
> : > more evident with the TR-3/4 series with 50% more dissipation in only
> a
> : > slightly larger cage.
> : >
> : > On the other hand, with a small, silent fan exhausting air out the
> back
> : > of the PA cage the cabinet top is only slightly warmer than the rest
> of
> : > the cabinet, even after long transmissions.  The fan really makes a
> big
> : > difference in that area, and in the rest of the cabinet as well.
> : >
> : > 73, Garey - K4OAH
> : > St Charles, IL
> : >
> : >
> : > Peter Bent wrote:
> : > > "Peter Bent" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang
> : > >
> --
> : > > Just curious, has anyone actually measured the temps in the cages--
> before
> : > > and after?
> : > >
> : > > -Original Message-
> : > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> : > > Behalf Of Ron Wagner
> : > > Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 8:18 PM
> : > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> : > > Subject: Re: [drakelist] Cooling Fan on finals
> : > >
> : > >
> : > > Ron Wagner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> : > >
> --
> : > > The way I went about his was a half wave (single diode) and filter
> cap
> : > > from the 12VAC filament line.  I drive a 24 volt fan drawing air out
> of
> : > > the final cage.  Turns the fan on as I turn on the rig, shuts down
> when
> : > > turned off.  Runs slow and quit, but really makes a difference on
> the
> : > > temp of the final cage.  I attach the fan to the rear of the cage
> (so
> the
> : > > cabinet comes off without problems) with grommets and black nylon
> wire
> : > > ties.  This arrangement does not seem to damage the cabinet, and
> does
> a
> : > > nice job cooling.
> : > >
> : > > As far as stability, as long as you do not blow the warm air in, it
> should
> : > > make the rig more stable.  The cabinet and associated circuits
>  should
> : > > stay much more constant in temperature.  In a good oscillator
> design,
> : > > which Drake has, it is typically temperature change that causes the
> drift.
> : > >
> : > > 73,
> : > > Ron WD8SBB
> : > >
> : > >
> : >
> : > ---

Re: [drakelist] R4-C Filters INRAD vs Original Piezo

[Chuck Grandgent]

Garey (OK, I just recently picked up that we have both a Garey and a Gary
here, I'm pretty slow :),

HOW do the crystals age ?  Is it the mechanicals inside or just what ?

   Chuck, K1OM

On Jan 1, 2008 3:52 PM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang
> --
> Wade -
>
> The Drake filters are generally fine, and if you can save some money
> while getting GOOD Drake filters, they should cost about half of what
> the Inrad filters cost.  The vast majority of the Drake filters still
> meet their specifications.
>
> That said, the Inrads are better filters.  They had the benefit of 25
> years of technology improvement, and much more powerful computers,
> resulting in smoother passband among other things.
>
> Obviously they are also 25 years "younger", and crystals DO age over time.
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
>
> wmacleod wrote:
> >
> > Hello Drakelist:
> >
> > Does anyone know how the INRAD selection of 5695 KHz 2^nd IF filters
> > for the R4C compare against the original Piezo Technology filters
> > offered by Drake? Would I be better off obtaining original Drake
> > filters or going with the INRADs.
> >
> > regards
> >
> > Wade
> >
> >
>
> --
> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body
> Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
> Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
> --
>

Re: [drakelist] uuF Capacitor, etc?

[Chuck Grandgent]

Here's a good conversion chart:
http://www.radio-electronics.com/info/data/capacitor/capacitor_conversion_chart.php

When I was a kid it was uf (micro farads) and uuf (micro micro farads).  (It
was also cycles, kilocycles, megacycles instead of Hertz.)

Then instead of uuf, they made it picofarads instead.

Now I see "nf" for nanofarads, I guess 1nf = 1000 pf.

They're just trying to confuse us old *arts.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Dec 26, 2007 1:43 PM, Howard Traxler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> "Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the
> drakelist gang
> --
> Would someone please straighten me out on these measures of capacitance?
>  On
> various web-based catalogs, I've seen mf, mfd, uf, and now we have uuf.  I
> just thought I was beginning to understand miliamps and amps but not even
> sure about that now.
>
> Thanks.
>
> WA9RYF
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Robert Ladden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 10:27 PM
> Subject: [drakelist] .005 uuF Capacitor?
>
>
> :
> : Robert Ladden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang
> : --
> : Hello,
> :
> : I'm fixing my "new" TR-3. The alignment instructions says to make an
> : alignment load with a ".005 uuF disk ceramic capacitor" (note that is
> : .005 pF these days). That is a teeny amount of capacitance. I assume
> : it is a typo and should say .005 uF capacitor.  But looking at the
> : instructions for the TR-4 and TR-4C, it is the same. I would think
> : that the stray capacitance is more than .005 pF. Is this a typo that
> : lasted over 15 years?  Does such a capacitor exist?
> :
> : 73,
> : Bob WW3QB
> :
> : --
> : Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> : Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in
> body
> : Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
> : Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
> : --
> :
> :
> : --
> : No virus found in this incoming message.
> : Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> : Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.9/1197 - Release Date:
> 12/25/2007 8:04 PM
> :
> :
>
>
> --
> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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> --
>

Re: [drakelist] ac4 write up

[Chuck Grandgent]

"Chuck Grandgent" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Well I have done the AC4R to one of my AC3s.

I am however a 95% CW guy, so how would the VOX trip ?

My habit is to leave the drive down all the way when I leave the room.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Dec 16, 2007 7:58 PM, Gary Poland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> "Gary Poland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> --
> Chuck,
>Nothing you can do short of turning the equipment off would prevent the
> final tubes to fully conduct if the bias went positive and the VOX trips the
> relay. I have had it happen only once in the 15 years I have been using
> Drake equipment and I only noticed it after I keyed my TR-6, very high
> idling current. Fortunate the VOX didn't trip while I was out of the room.
> Best way to prevent a problem is to, at a minimum, recap the bias supply in
> the AC-4. In my case I bought just the bare PC boards from the Heath Kit
> Shop and my own parts. My five AC-4's and one AC-3 have been rebuilt with
> them.
>
> 73, Gary W8PU
> http://home.cinci.rr.com/w8pu
>
>
>
>
> --
> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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> Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
> Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
> --
>

--
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Re: [drakelist] ac4 write up

[Chuck Grandgent]

"Chuck Grandgent" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Alright, here's a thought.

If I have the gain / drive level control all the way down (counter
clockwise), and the bias were to fail, would my finals be safe ?

   Chuck, K1OM

On Dec 16, 2007 11:17 AM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> --
> Geoff -
>
> No, the problem in this case is purely the result of the finals
> "saturating" (to use a SS term) when there is no grid bias applied.
>
> They do NOT have an I-DSS like a FET either!
>
> Put another way, a SS final is normally "off" with no bias, and a tube
> final is normally "on".
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
>
> Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
> > "Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the 
> > drakelist gang
> > --
> > On Sun, Dec 16, 2007 at 10:24:48AM -0500, Mike Bryce wrote:
> >
> >
> >> Do you want to put the protection inside the power supply?
> >>
> >
> > That brings up a question in my mind. Is the actual cause of damage
> > to the finals the failure of the bias circuit, or is it due to the
> > finals being overdriven? In that case wouldn't a device in the power
> > supply which limits the power supplied to the rig to a safe level
> > be a better idea, or an "overdrive" cut out?
> >
> > For example, in a transitor rig there is often some sort of
> > protective circuit to prevent the finals from being destroyed
> > if they draw too much current. Many Japanese rigs use limiters
> > o "fold back" circuits.
> >
> > Ten-Tec does not use one, instead they includea saftey cut out in their
> > power supplies.
> >
> > Could a similar circuit be devised and used in this case?
> >
> > Geoff.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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> Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
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> --
>

--
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Re: [drakelist] Drake Manual source?

[Chuck Grandgent]

Looks like BAMA is dropping the DJVU in favor of .PDF.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Dec 15, 2007 11:22 PM, Howard Traxler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> "Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the
> drakelist gang
> --
> Has anyone looked at
> http://bama.sbc.edu/
> ?  I downloaded a few from there.  They are image files with a djvu
> extention.  It seems to be nonstandard but there is a program for
> displaying
> the files.  One can also print from this program--which I have done.  dONE
> IT so that I could scan and ocr them to grab the text out of them.  Have
> not
> yet evaluated any of the final ocr results.
>
> 73, WA9RYF
>
> - Original Message -
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 5:42 PM
> Subject: [drakelist] Drake Manual source?
>
>
> : It has been a while since I had to purchase BA manuals. Since originals
> are
> : extremely rare I would be looking for high quality reproductions (R-4B,
> : T-4XB,MN-2000). I have found several GOOGLing but difficult to assess
> the
> quality,
> : particularly the photographs and schematics. I am hoping the LIST could
> make
> : some recommendations.
> :
> : Thank you
> :
> : Alan KB7MBI
> :
> :
> :
> : **See AOL's top rated recipes
> : (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop000304)
> :
>
>
>
> 
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.2/1185 - Release Date:
> 12/15/2007
> 12:00 PM
>
>
> --
> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body
> Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
> Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
> --
>

Re: [drakelist] ac4 write up

[Chuck Grandgent]

This is starting to remind me of my tractor problem.
1950 Ford 8N that is.

The problem is, if you're dumb enough to be around the PTO off the back and
get entangled and hence expire. On a similar board lots of controversy about
how best to protect against these sort of mishaps.

So, I hooked up mechanics wire wrapped around the juice going to the coil,
and routed to the back of the tractor.  SO, if I ever got in trouble back
there,  I could just YANK the thing and thereby preserve myself.

I ran with that setup for a few weeks and then got to worrying too much
about THAT getup malfunctioning, getting snagged in the brush, etc..

I think best to just get the AC4 upgrade kit and worry more about getting
hit by a bus or something.

   Chuck, K1OM, Alachua, FL


On Dec 15, 2007 7:50 PM, Bill Horne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> Bill Horne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> --
> Mike,
>
> I understand, and perhaps "Crowbar" is the wrong term: there's certainly
> enough technical expertise on the list to suggest a viable circuit.
>
> Here's my idea: if bias drop below 50% of normal, then we could trigger
> an SCR to short the AC source and blow the fuse.
>
> 73, Bill W1AC
>
>
> Mike Bryce wrote:
> >
> > Mike Bryce <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> > --
> > Gosh..
> >
> > I thought about that, but here's no way to crowbar the bias circuit.
> >
> > in the old supplies, the damage is caused by a "lack" of bias. So, if
> > there is a failure of the bias supply, i.e. it quits, how can you fix
> > that?
> >
> > the only way I could come up with would have been a system that
> > deprives the transformer of it's primary voltage, shutting down the
> > supply. It would have to default in the off position too, as you would
> > not want the supply to cycle on, find the missing bias, then shut
> > down, the power up, find the missing bias supply, shut down and on and
> > on.
> >
> >
> > mike
> >
> > Mike, WB8VGE
> > SunLight Energy Systems
> > The Heathkit Shop
> > http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
> > J e e p
> > o|||o
> > Note: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a large
> > number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced
> >
> >
> > On Dec 15, 2007, at 5:28 PM, Bill Horne wrote:
> >
> >
> > Bill Horne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> > gang
> > --
> > Is there a provision in the kit for a crowbar circuit to safeguard the
> > rig if the bias (or other) supply fails?
> >
> > Bill, W1AC
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in
> > body
> > Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
> > Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
> > --
> >
>
>
> --
> Lookng back through time you know its clear that i've been blind
> I've been a fool
> To open up my heart to all that jealousy that bitterness that ridicule
>
> David Gray
>
>
> --
> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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> Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
> --
>

Re: [drakelist] ac4 write up

[Chuck Grandgent]

I liked it too.

After Garey's recent scary stories about how bias voltage failures can wreck
things in a hurry, one might quibble about the comment in the article to
leave it alone if it's currently working OK.

Also, and I've mentioned this before, I think it glosses over AC3 usage
issues, it was not transparent for me.  There was some ambiguity over wire
colors, and I had to resort (eeek !) to studying the schematic to get a
couple wires right.

I might also caution that with what I ended up having to do with new
terminal strips, I had to be careful that nothing stuck out too far
underneath that might contact the bottom plate.

But as I've also said here before, a very satisfying project, and it sees
almost daily use.

Thanks for the article and for making the kit available !

   Chuck, K1OM


On Dec 15, 2007 1:29 PM, ron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> ron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> --
>  Gang,
>
> Did you see the neat write up on Drake power supplies in this month's
> "Q" street?? (QST)
>
> Some useful info to share among Drake owners.
>
>
> Ron, wb1hga
> "the sunspots are coming! The sunspots are coming!"
>
> --
> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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> Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
> --
>

Re: [drakelist] TR4 RF power on 10m

[Chuck Grandgent]

Garey, I know you had asked if Ken had done an alignment.
I know this is a slightly different box, but in the T4X, there's those
trimmer caps accessible on the left hand side of the chassis, I would
certainly want to make sure those had been peaked for those two bands.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Dec 13, 2007 5:46 PM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang
> --
>
> Ken -
>
> Ken Bessler wrote:
> > Ken Bessler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> > -
> >> Are you tuning into a "good" dummy load?
> >>
> >
> > Yes.
> >
> >> What is the plate current reading on the meter when you have 65W
> >> output? Does the meter read about the same plate current as on the
> >> other bands, or is it considerably less?
> >>
> >
> > 320ma yeilds 70 watts or so on 10 meters and 20 meters - the differance
> > is that I can get more current and power on the lower bands. on 10m,
> > 320 ma is all she'll produce. Turning the XMTR GAIN further on 10m has
> > no effect.
> >
> 320 mA of current implies 200W of input power, meaning there is roughly
> 130W being dissipated in the final tubes.  If this is true, the tube
> plates would be red very quickly.
>
> It would be worthwhile to measure the resistance of each of the 15 ohm
> cathode resistors, and then measure the voltage dropped across each one
> to see how they are sharing the total current, AND verify the accuracy
> of the plate meter.
> >> Is the neutralization adjusted correctly? Does the plate current dip
> >> coincide with maximum output? Or does maximum output power require that
> >> you adjust the PLATE control "out" of the dip?
> >>
> >
> > It almost peaks with the  dip - it's real close but if I turn the PLATE
> control
> > just a hair CCW past the dip point I get another 10%.
> >
> >
> OK, so neutralization is close, but not quite.  Are all three tubes the
> same brand?  Mixing brands can sometimes make neutralization difficult.
>
> I don't know the condition or age of your finals, but the most likely
> problem is soft finals.  This is the most common reason for power
> dropping off as you go higher in frequency.  We'll know a little better
> if you can measure the individual currents as above.
> >> The final tubes may be getting "soft". Weak final tubes exhibit low
> >> output power first on the highest bands.
> >>
> >> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> >> Glen Allen, VA
> >>
>
> --
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>

Re: [drakelist] Power tubes for T-4XB-C, TR-4C

[Chuck Grandgent]

Thanks much Garey,

that explains too the magic marker markings on the two Sylvanias.

   Chuck


On Dec 9, 2007 5:15 PM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang
> --
> Chuck -
>
> Those numbers are about what you see on a TV-7/D tester and are
> equivalent to transconductance, or "gain" of the tubes.
>
> The procedure used by Drake was to plug them into a test set that
> duplicated the circuit in the T-4X final, set the bias for 35 mA, and
> then plug in one at a time however many they wanted to test/match.
> Their numbers, not related to any quantitative measurement, were
> typically in the 35 - 40 range and were marked on the top of each tube
> with a felt marker.  Neither method has any direct relationship to their
> performance at RF!
>
> Matched tubes are not really  _necessary_, but mismatched tubes can have
> 3rd order distortion products considerably higher than a matched set.
> This can vary from  a few percent up to tens of percent depending upon
> the degree of mismatch.  If you consider a pair of tubes in parallel,
> say that one tube draws 30 mA at a given bias voltage, and the other
> draws 40 mA.  The plate meter shows 70 mA total, but one tube is
> considerably different from the other.  When drive is applied, one tube
> will also draw more plate current than the other, so one tube may be
> providing 60W of the output and the other 70W.  Distortion increases
> rapidly when tubes are driven past the optimum, which Drake measured at
> 175 mA per tube.  So if one tube is drawing 150 mA and the other is
> drawing the other 190 mA, distortion can be pretty bad!  Your nearest
> neighbor ham probably won't appreciate it..  Of course it gets MUCH
> worse if you are driving an amp, since the amp contributes its own
> distortion on top of that from the transmitter.  This tends to widen
> your circle of "fans"!  :-)
>
> Mixing "brands" of tubes is also not prudent, even if "matched" DC wise,
> because different internal construction can make it difficult to
> neutralize the final over all bands.  It works ok a lot of the time, but
> if the neutralization seems hard to optimize, or better on one band than
> another, this could be the cause.  Drake used both Sylvania and RCA, but
> always paired, or tripleted(?) them by brand.  Sylvania was the only
> sweep tube manufacturer that published data for linear RF use.
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
>
> Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> > looks like I found a "TR4 matched set" of 6JB6s in the garage that I
> > got back in '99, looks like from WB2LHP. Two Sylvania's and an RCA.
> > Slips of paper for each, two are marked 109, one is marked 110.
> >
> > Those numbers are exactly what ?  What is the typical variation seen
> > among NON-matched 6JB6's ?  What bad stuff might one see when not
> > using matched sets ?
> >
> > Would be fun to know what I paid for them back then.  Of course those
> > dollars were worth more then than now.
> > BTW RFParts didn't have any Sylvania/RCA last week, but did have GE's.
> >
> >Chuck, K1OM
> >
> >
>
> --
> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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>

Re: [drakelist] Drake AC4R upgrade in Jan 2008 QST

[Chuck Grandgent]

Don't have my January yet...
I will say upgrading my AC3 was a very satisfying project.  It had mystery
(because of the diffs between it and the AC4) and of course danger, but in
the end success :)
I have one more to do.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Dec 9, 2007 4:36 PM, Mike Bryce <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Boys and girls..
> After much hair pulling and emails between the arrl, last year I convinced
> them there is enough interest in the old drake to warrant publishing the
> article about fixing the old ac4 supplies.
>
>
> It took several rewrites to please the editors: they did not want it to
> read like a "infomercial"
>
> So now it's going to appear in the January 2008 issue of QST.
>
> So, that being said, if you like the article and want to see more stuff on
> older radios, (and not just from me) how about popping by the arrl.org web
> site and voting on the article?
>
> here's a link
> http://www.arrl.org/members-only/qstvote.html?pidx=0
>
>
> I don't now for sure, but you may have to be a member of the arrl to get
> to this link.
>
> If you don't care for the article, that's cool too!
>
> But the bottom line is this. They print what people read!
>
> Mike
>
> Mike, WB8VGE
>
> SunLight Energy Systems
>
> The Heathkit Shop
>
> http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
>
> J e e p
>
> o|||o
>
> Note: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a large
> number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced
>
>
>

Re: [drakelist] Power tubes for T-4XB-C, TR-4C

[Chuck Grandgent]

looks like I found a "TR4 matched set" of 6JB6s in the garage that I got
back in '99, looks like from WB2LHP. Two Sylvania's and an RCA.  Slips of
paper for each, two are marked 109, one is marked 110.

Those numbers are exactly what ?  What is the typical variation seen among
NON-matched 6JB6's ?  What bad stuff might one see when not using matched
sets ?

Would be fun to know what I paid for them back then.  Of course those
dollars were worth more then than now.
BTW RFParts didn't have any Sylvania/RCA last week, but did have GE's.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Nov 25, 2007 10:30 AM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang
> --
> Hi Gary -
>
> Well the filament wiring in the TR-4/C is important because it's a
> combination series/parallel arrangement.  The three final tube filaments
> are in parallel, and that is then in series with eight other tubes and
> the SSB pilot lamps.  The Dial and S-Meter lamps are in series across
> the 12.6V filament supply.  Ohm's opinion still works on series/parallel
> resistance combinations!  :-)
>
> Don's (N9OO) very nice LED replacements are not offered for the TR-4/C
> for that reason.  It would be possible to make a series/parallel/LED
> arrangement to allow the proper LED current while maintaining the
> appropriate current for the filament string, but would require two
> resistors, one of which would have to dissipate most of a watt.  Not
> easy to build into a #47 bulb base.
>
> I have been using #755 bulbs for years.  They are the same voltage and
> current as the #47 but with a design life of 20,000 hours rather than
> the 2,000 hours of the #47.  Roughly 2-1/2 years instead of 1/4 year of
> continuous use.  The filament is also more rugged and is less prone to
> vibration or turn-on surge failure.  I probably have 50 of them in
> various Drake gear, and have yet to replace one since about 1965!
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
>
> Gary Poland wrote:
> >
> > "Gary Poland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the
> > drakelist gang
> > --
> > Garey,
> >  I have heard that filament current balance is important and using
> > incorrect pilot lamps can  upset the balance of current distribution.
> > Does this prevent the use of the LED replacements? I am just curious,
> > I still use the #47 lamps.
> >
> > 73, Gary W8PU
> > http://home.cinci.rr.com/w8pu
> >
> >
>
> --
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>

Re: [drakelist] SUCCESS! was: T-4XC output on 160 Meters fades...

[Chuck Grandgent]

Congrats and just in time :)

My R4A and T4X are on now getting stable.

   Chuck, K1OM, Alachua FL

On Nov 30, 2007 4:05 PM, Doug Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> Doug Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> --
> On Fri, 2007-11-30 at 10:05 -0500, Garey Barrell wrote:
> > ... snip ...
> > Each of these components has an associated bandswitch contact, and while
> > it doesn't appear to be related to the switch contact itself, it IS
> > quite possible to be a "cold" or "rosin" solder joint on the switch
> contact.
>
> SUCCESS!!!
>
> Garey, THANK YOU!  You got me on the right track.
>
> I started by watching the plate voltage on the driver tube -- it did not
> change much and never went away completely.  So, I ruled out T9.
>
> Then, I snooped around in the area of the bandswitch and didn't see
> anything that looked obvious.  But, I decided to re-flow the solder (and
> add just a bit of fresh) on the relevant bandswitch connectors.
>
> I had to remove the shaft coupling that controls the crystal selector
> (the gear driven shaft) and rotate that shaft upright so I could get the
> soldering iron down to the bottom of the 2nd wafer on the bandswitch.  I
> re-flowed the connections to the switch and BINGO!  Full power on 160
> meters!
>
> If anyone is doing the 160 meter contest this weekend, look for me and
> my Drake twins!
>
> 73,
> -Doug, W7KF
>
>
>
>
> --
> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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> --
>



-- 

--- sent via mobile phone account --

Re: [drakelist] T-4B Power Amps

[Chuck Grandgent]

Always had good luck with http://www.tubesandmore.com

   Chuck, K1OM

On Nov 29, 2007 10:39 AM, DW Holtman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>  Hello,
>
> Does any one have any recommendations on where is a good place to buy Sylvania
> or  RCA 6JB6 tubes beside RF Parts?
>
> Thank you for any information.
>
> Best,
> DW Holtman
> WB7SSN
>
>



-- 

--- sent via mobile phone account --

Re: [drakelist] Power tubes for T-4XB-C, TR-4C

[Chuck Grandgent]

what does that mean exactly ?  do without the cage, or it won't fit with the
cover on ?

   Chuck, K1OM

On Nov 24, 2007 8:45 PM, Gary Poland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> "Gary Poland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang
> --
> Be aware that some 6GJ5's are too tall to fit in the Drakes PA cage ..
>
> 73, Gary
>
> --
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Re: [drakelist] Re: AC4R on AC3

[Chuck Grandgent]

Wanted to let you know results Ron.

Had a filament transformer that gave me 8VAC, so tested with that.  Since
I'm squeemish I also had an isolation transformer upstream from the filament
transformer.

Output voltages looked fine, only down by a factor of 15.

So the acid test, eliminated the filament transformer, and again, looks
perfectly fine.

Now it's on to adjusting the bias and trying it out.

Will have to do the other AC3 I have too.

Thanks all,

  Chuck, K1OM, Alachua FL

On 6/12/07, Ron Wagner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Chuch,
What I would do is user a 12 volt transformer on the 120 volt input.
Ligth up the supply without the rig attached.  That would product output
on each of the supply lines are 1/10th the voltage.  It should not hurt
anything too much even if it is miswired.

Let us know how it goes.

73,
Ron WD8SBB


On Tue, 12 Jun 2007, Chuck Grandgent wrote:

> Ready to test my AC4R on AC3, but I'm being cautious before plugging in.
>
> Question:
> The AC4R instructions refer to a "white/orange" wire in a couple
places.  I
> don't have such a combo-colored wire, nor do I see reference to it on
the
> AC4 schematic that came with the AC4R kit.
>
> Refering to the AC3 schematic, and my AC3, I do believe I have things
wired
> correctly, but I'd still like to ask if someone can shed some light on
this
> "white/orange" wire that is referred to.
>
> Thanks, Chuck, K1OM
>
>
> On 6/2/07, Chuck Grandgent <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> Almost done doing the AC4R replacement power supply kit, but on AC3.
>>
>> I especially appreciated that while the kit is not expressly meant for
the
>> AC3, the PC board fits perfectly where the old cap cans used to sit,
looks
>> like if it was another 1/8" bigger it wouldn't have.
>>
>> Any "gotchas" previous AC4R on AC3 folk might caution me on ?  While
the
>> instructions looked a little alarming before I started, it has gone
pretty
>> easy.
>>
>> Chuck, K1OM
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> --- sent via mobile phone account --
>





--

--- sent via mobile phone account --

[drakelist] Re: AC4R on AC3

[Chuck Grandgent]

Ready to test my AC4R on AC3, but I'm being cautious before plugging in.

Question:
The AC4R instructions refer to a "white/orange" wire in a couple places.  I
don't have such a combo-colored wire, nor do I see reference to it on the
AC4 schematic that came with the AC4R kit.

Refering to the AC3 schematic, and my AC3, I do believe I have things wired
correctly, but I'd still like to ask if someone can shed some light on this
"white/orange" wire that is referred to.

Thanks, Chuck, K1OM


On 6/2/07, Chuck Grandgent <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Almost done doing the AC4R replacement power supply kit, but on AC3.

I especially appreciated that while the kit is not expressly meant for the
AC3, the PC board fits perfectly where the old cap cans used to sit, looks
like if it was another 1/8" bigger it wouldn't have.

Any "gotchas" previous AC4R on AC3 folk might caution me on ?  While the
instructions looked a little alarming before I started, it has gone pretty
easy.

Chuck, K1OM





--

--- sent via mobile phone account --

[drakelist] AC4R on AC3

[Chuck Grandgent]

Almost done doing the AC4R replacement power supply kit, but on AC3.

I especially appreciated that while the kit is not expressly meant for the
AC3, the PC board fits perfectly where the old cap cans used to sit, looks
like if it was another 1/8" bigger it wouldn't have.

Any "gotchas" previous AC4R on AC3 folk might caution me on ?  While the
instructions looked a little alarming before I started, it has gone pretty
easy.

Chuck, K1OM

Re: [drakelist] T4XC PA top Cover required

[chuck grandgent]

chuck grandgent <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I need one of these myself, been intending to make one.

   Chuck, K1OM

"Keith Evans" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> Hi Guys, 
> I wonder if anyone has one of these available, I have USA shipping address 
> available if necessary.
> 73 de Keith
> 
> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net
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Re: [drakelist] T4X mic wiring question

[chuck grandgent]

chuck grandgent <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Again, I wanted to thank the list for the MANY fine responses.

Just wanted to let y'all know I'm off tomorrow on a business trip and 
won't get back for a couple weeks, so won't get to it until then.

Consensus was I have a couple wires swapped.

I will report the results back when I get around to it, just wanted to let 
you all know why the delay.

Thanks again,

Chuck, K1OM, Alachua FL

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Re: [drakelist] T4X mic wiring question

[chuck grandgent]

chuck grandgent <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Thanks for the responses.

Also, MY APOLOGIES for my email client for some reason choosing to do that 
email as HTML, I always try to keep it simple text...

73, Chuck, K1OM

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> --
>"http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-transitional.dtd";>
> http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"; xml:lang="en" lang="en">
> 
> 
..


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[drakelist] AC3 vs AC4 ?

[chuck grandgent]

chuck grandgent <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
OK, simple question.
In 25 words or less, what's the diff between AC3 and AC4 ?
I've seen schematics, is the AC4 just a slightly more progressive design ?

Thanx,
   Chuck, K1OM

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Re: [drakelist] xtals ?

[chuck grandgent]

chuck grandgent <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I got a half-dozen or so crystals from Petersen Radio in July and am a 
happy customer:
Petersen Radio Company, Inc., 2735 Avenue A, Council Bluffs, IA 51501
(712) 323-7539, email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
$11 each + $3.50 postage  (the postage covers more than one crystal)

73, Chuck, K1OM

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> 
> Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> --
> The reason for the 20.8 in the T-4XC is because of the proximity of the 
> PTO and Car Osc second harmonics and their unwanted mixer products.  IF 
> you look at the crystal chart for the T-4XC you'll see that the 21.1 MHz 
> crystal is marked DO NOT USE in the 10.1 MHz region.  This is the only 
> region (aside from 60M) that this is a problem.   17M is fine.
> 
> International Crystal (ICM) is a reliable supplier.  There are other 
> suppliers that have been recommended by others, but ICM is the only one 
> I have had experience with.   I have heard negative comments about JAN 
> Crystals but some have had good luck.   Perhaps they are inconsistent?
> 
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Atlanta
> 
> Drake C-Line Service Manual
> <http://www.k4oah.com>
> 
> 
> 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> > Looking at the manuals for the C-line I see that for 30m the t4XC 
> > wants a 20.8 xtal
> > and the R4C wants a 21.1  xtal  .
> > just wondering why these values are different since xtal values are 
> > the same for
> > xmt / rcv  on the other freq ranges.
> > I wonder what is a good source nowdays for xtals . I would like 
> > one for
> > 25m SWL (22.6 xtal) and also xtals for 17m .anyone tried the twins 
> > on 17m
> > does it work OK ?   thanks   jim 
> 
> --
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