Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration
If its rusted the copper is gone anyway, clean away the rust the best you can with a Dremel tool and scotch brite. Then coat the chassis with polyurethane, worked for me. 73, Gary ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration
My experience is...yes, you can clean it with various stuffbut if the plating is gone...you really just have to live with it. If it's gone I have found no way to improve the looks. I just happened onto a B line with virtually no spotting. But I have another that is moderate...they both work the same. 73, Lee -Original Message- From: Ron To: drakelist ; Steve Wedge Sent: Tue, Sep 6, 2011 7:14 pm Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration I have not tried it, but seem to remember a discussion of Kroil oil as loosening the rust spots so you can gently clean them away. Not sure if this was just talk or actual results. Anyone tried it? 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Tue, 9/6/11, Steve Wedge wrote: From: Steve Wedge Subject: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration To: "drakelist@zerobeat.net" Date: Tuesday, September 6, 2011, 12:39 PM I am usually amazed at how well the copper chassis clean up with simple aids like 409 and Charlie's Soap (wonderful stuff only available in my area of NC). I've seen the Flitz-and-Dremel (or should that be "Flitz-und-Dremel" ;-) ) technique on WB4HFN's website and am still a little disappointed in how a larger area of corrosion will look after this process. I've seen some hobbyist paints, as well as Krylon, offered in a copper color. Has anyone tried any of these? I'm just looking for something that will mask the ugliness somewhat and realize it will never perfectly match. There's an area about 1 x 2 near the PTO of my "new" R-4B that has all the hallmarks of "Pepsi Syndrome" and I'd like to both protect and dress-up the area a little. Again, not going to make it a museum piece - just looking for ways of doing the equivalent of "bondo" to take the ugly away... 73, Steve ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration
I have not tried it, but seem to remember a discussion of Kroil oil as loosening the rust spots so you can gently clean them away. Not sure if this was just talk or actual results. Anyone tried it? 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Tue, 9/6/11, Steve Wedge wrote: > From: Steve Wedge > Subject: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration > To: "drakelist@zerobeat.net" > Date: Tuesday, September 6, 2011, 12:39 PM > I am usually amazed at how well the > copper chassis clean up with simple aids like 409 and > Charlie's Soap (wonderful stuff only available in my area of > NC). I've seen the Flitz-and-Dremel (or should that be > "Flitz-und-Dremel" ;-) ) technique on WB4HFN's website > and am still a little disappointed in how a larger area of > corrosion will look after this process. > > I've seen some hobbyist paints, as well as Krylon, offered > in a copper color. Has anyone tried any of > these? I'm just looking for something that will mask > the ugliness somewhat and realize it will never perfectly > match. There's an area about 1 x 2 near the PTO of my > "new" R-4B that has all the hallmarks of "Pepsi Syndrome" > and I'd like to both protect and dress-up the area a > little. > > Again, not going to make it a museum piece - just looking > for ways of doing the equivalent of "bondo" to take the ugly > away... > > 73, > > Steve > > ___ > Drakelist mailing list > Drakelist@zerobeat.net > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist > ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration
- Original Message - From: "Steve Berg" To: Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 11:05 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration I have not tried it on a Drake chassis, but have had good performance with a product called Nevrdull. It comes in a can and is cotton wadding with some sort of solvent on it. It is non abrasive, and does a great job on silverware and Harley exhaust pipes. Steve WA9JML I have no idea what is in Nevrdull, its MSDS is probably on the web. However, most corrosion removers contain either oxalic acid or phosphoric acid as the active ingredient. They may also contain a surfactant or detergent and a polish of some sort. The polish can be very fine rouge or something softer like powdered pumice or French chalk. Phosphoric acid is also found in many bathroom tile cleaners and mold removers. These will remove oxidation about as well as the more specialized products. While its possible some cleaners contain other chemicals these two reducing agents seem to be the most popular. One problem with copper plated chassis is that they may have been coated with a lacquer. If the lacquer coating flakes off for some reason it will allow the unprotected copper to oxidize plus the oxidation can migrate under the remaining lacquer. Too much of any cleaner can begin to remove the plating. I think the main purpose of the copper plating is to reduce surface resistance. I have no idea of how effective this is in practice. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration
Thanks, Bob. I'm going to experiment a little with this R-4B that I'll be selling. It will be getting disassembled this evening prior to its bath. Before I dunk it (actually I don't dunk them - but they DO get wet!) I'm going to trace all the mods that the PO did and mark up a copy of the R-4B schematic. Then I'll attack the scabs on the chassis (there are a bunch that the PO shellacked, it appears) with jelly and flitz and see what they look like. I just got done taking readings on all bands (and found that 10m is set up for the bottom instead of 28.5!) prior to disassembly so that I can compare performance after the cleaning and alignment. I'll keep y'all posted. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 To be is to do - Socrates To do is to be - Plato Do be do be do. - Sinatra All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. -- From: "Robert Fish" Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 1:49 PM To: "Steve Wedge" Cc: Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration Hi Steve, I have had some limited success with Naval jelly. It seems to stop and remove the rust pretty well. Like you said, it isn't going to look like new. Whatever damage the rust did will still be there (pitting, bare steel etc.). But, it is much cleaner looking after it is cleaned up. When I'm done, I just hit it with a coat of lacquer to keep air from getting to it again and starting the process all over. It does leave shiny copper where you use it, so it won't match the rest of the old copper. The only thing that will fix that is time. It isn't a perfect solution, but it is much better than rust and corrosion left unchecked. Bob K6GGO I am usually amazed at how well the copper chassis clean up with simple aids like 409 and Charlie's Soap (wonderful stuff only available in my area of NC). I've seen the Flitz-and-Dremel (or should that be "Flitz-und-Dremel" ;-) ) technique on WB4HFN's website and am still a little disappointed in how a larger area of corrosion will look after this process. I've seen some hobbyist paints, as well as Krylon, offered in a copper color. Has anyone tried any of these? I'm just looking for something that will mask the ugliness somewhat and realize it will never perfectly match. There's an area about 1 x 2 near the PTO of my "new" R-4B that has all the hallmarks of "Pepsi Syndrome" and I'd like to both protect and dress-up the area a little. Again, not going to make it a museum piece - just looking for ways of doing the equivalent of "bondo" to take the ugly away... 73, Steve ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration
I have not tried it on a Drake chassis, but have had good performance with a product called Nevrdull. It comes in a can and is cotton wadding with some sort of solvent on it. It is non abrasive, and does a great job on silverware and Harley exhaust pipes. Steve WA9JML ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration
I wonder if anyone has ever tried a product called 'Rub-N-Buff'?? It's a waxy substance that is used to 'restore' metallic objects, and comes in 'Antique Brass', 'OLD COPPER', Silver, etc., etc.. It looks great, but I don't know how well it would fare under hot chassis operation. When you buff it out, it is extremely thin and may work. One of these days I'm going to find the time to try it out! 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs Steve Wedge wrote: I am usually amazed at how well the copper chassis clean up with simple aids like 409 and Charlie's Soap (wonderful stuff only available in my area of NC). I've seen the Flitz-and-Dremel (or should that be "Flitz-und-Dremel" ;-) ) technique on WB4HFN's website and am still a little disappointed in how a larger area of corrosion will look after this process. I've seen some hobbyist paints, as well as Krylon, offered in a copper color. Has anyone tried any of these? I'm just looking for something that will mask the ugliness somewhat and realize it will never perfectly match. There's an area about 1 x 2 near the PTO of my "new" R-4B that has all the hallmarks of "Pepsi Syndrome" and I'd like to both protect and dress-up the area a little. Again, not going to make it a museum piece - just looking for ways of doing the equivalent of "bondo" to take the ugly away... 73, Steve ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration
Hi Steve, I have had some limited success with Naval jelly. It seems to stop and remove the rust pretty well. Like you said, it isn't going to look like new. Whatever damage the rust did will still be there (pitting, bare steel etc.). But, it is much cleaner looking after it is cleaned up. When I'm done, I just hit it with a coat of lacquer to keep air from getting to it again and starting the process all over. It does leave shiny copper where you use it, so it won't match the rest of the old copper. The only thing that will fix that is time. It isn't a perfect solution, but it is much better than rust and corrosion left unchecked. Bob K6GGO I am usually amazed at how well the copper chassis clean up with simple aids like 409 and Charlie's Soap (wonderful stuff only available in my area of NC). I've seen the Flitz-and-Dremel (or should that be "Flitz-und-Dremel" ;-) ) technique on WB4HFN's website and am still a little disappointed in how a larger area of corrosion will look after this process. I've seen some hobbyist paints, as well as Krylon, offered in a copper color. Has anyone tried any of these? I'm just looking for something that will mask the ugliness somewhat and realize it will never perfectly match. There's an area about 1 x 2 near the PTO of my "new" R-4B that has all the hallmarks of "Pepsi Syndrome" and I'd like to both protect and dress-up the area a little. Again, not going to make it a museum piece - just looking for ways of doing the equivalent of "bondo" to take the ugly away... 73, Steve ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration
I painted a really bad TR-6 chasis[ Is there anything left that is sacred? :) ] with aluminum (not silver) 2 part epoxy paint. With the top cover back on it looked very much like the chasis of a TR-4C without tube numbers. I was pleased with it. It looked better than before. I did not paint over the serial number. Tom K4RV > Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 12:39:58 -0400 > From: w1es1...@earthlink.net > To: drakelist@zerobeat.net > Subject: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration > > I am usually amazed at how well the copper chassis clean up with simple aids > like 409 and Charlie's Soap (wonderful stuff only available in my area of > NC). I've seen the Flitz-and-Dremel (or should that be "Flitz-und-Dremel" > ;-) ) technique on WB4HFN's website and am still a little disappointed in > how a larger area of corrosion will look after this process. > > I've seen some hobbyist paints, as well as Krylon, offered in a copper color. > Has anyone tried any of these? I'm just looking for something that will > mask the ugliness somewhat and realize it will never perfectly match. > There's an area about 1 x 2 near the PTO of my "new" R-4B that has all the > hallmarks of "Pepsi Syndrome" and I'd like to both protect and dress-up the > area a little. > > Again, not going to make it a museum piece - just looking for ways of doing > the equivalent of "bondo" to take the ugly away... > > 73, > > Steve > > ___ > Drakelist mailing list > Drakelist@zerobeat.net > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration
I am usually amazed at how well the copper chassis clean up with simple aids like 409 and Charlie's Soap (wonderful stuff only available in my area of NC). I've seen the Flitz-and-Dremel (or should that be "Flitz-und-Dremel" ;-) ) technique on WB4HFN's website and am still a little disappointed in how a larger area of corrosion will look after this process. I've seen some hobbyist paints, as well as Krylon, offered in a copper color. Has anyone tried any of these? I'm just looking for something that will mask the ugliness somewhat and realize it will never perfectly match. There's an area about 1 x 2 near the PTO of my "new" R-4B that has all the hallmarks of "Pepsi Syndrome" and I'd like to both protect and dress-up the area a little. Again, not going to make it a museum piece - just looking for ways of doing the equivalent of "bondo" to take the ugly away... 73, Steve ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
