Re: [Elecraft] Cool your KX3 (fredem)

2014-05-03 Thread Jim Brown

On 5/2/2014 5:43 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
IMHO, the heatsink is an improvement to the KX3 for those who do 
continuous duty data modes and want to operate at power levels in 
excess of 5 watts. 


Yes, and equipment cooling is always a good thing. However -- note that 
the KXPA100 provides power gain of 16 dB, so it takes only 2.5W from the 
KX3 to get 100W out.


Another point. Even a contester who constantly CQs doesn't transmit for 
more than 4-8 seconds at a time and listens for 2 or 3 (if he doesn't 
listen for at least that long, he's a poor operator), and if he's making 
QSOs, the other guy is transmitting half of the time. And RTTY is the 
only keydown contesting mode. Also, the WSJT family of keydown modes 
like JT65, JT9, PSK441, and so on, transmit for 48 seconds and listen 
for 72 seconds. Finally, if you're transmitting for more than a minute 
or two at a time with RTTY or PSK, the other operator is probably bored 
to death with your brag tape.


To me, the value of that extra heat sink would be to allow me to run the 
KX3 barefoot closer to 10W in those keydown modes. But for portable 
operation, the limitation is battery, not heat.


73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread John, 9H5G
The kit is in the mail so I thought it would be a good time to fire off my 
first email to the group and exit from lurk mode with a question.

I've read the K3 kit manual a few times now but I'm certain that there is a lot 
of wisdom out there to be garnered from the collective experience of the group 
so I'm asking if you would take the time to share please?

73 de John, KK4OYJ
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs

2014-05-03 Thread Joel Black
Thanks for all the replies. There were so many, that I will not be able 
to respond to them all. FYI, many of the replies recommended me getting 
a pair of glasses that just had my bifocal scrip for using with the 
computer. That is probably the easiest choice for me.


Thank you for allowing me to bring this OT discussion to the group.

73,
Joel - W4JBB
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Charles Tropp via Elecraft
You read the manual John so you are way ahead. Just take your time and go step 
by step. It might help to have some small tools handy to help with the 
fasteners. You will be fine and I can't begin to describe what a great feeling 
of accomplishment it is to push that power button at the end and have the rig 
come alive! 
73 Charles N2SO. 

Sent from my android device.

-Original Message-
From: John, 9H5G kk4...@gmail.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sat, 03 May 2014 5:09 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

The kit is in the mail so I thought it would be a good time to fire off my 
first email to the group and exit from lurk mode with a question.

I've read the K3 kit manual a few times now but I'm certain that there is a lot 
of wisdom out there to be garnered from the collective experience of the group 
so I'm asking if you would take the time to share please?

73 de John, KK4OYJ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Don Wilhelm

John,

Yes, that is easy.  Follow the instructions in the manual in the order 
written.
If you are not adept at determining screw sizes and lengths by eye, 
measure them.

That is all there is to it.
Build the base K3 first, then the KAT3, then the KPA3, followed by the 
KRX3 and the KXV144 if you have those options.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/3/2014 6:07 AM, John, 9H5G wrote:

The kit is in the mail so I thought it would be a good time to fire off my first email 
to the group and exit from lurk mode with a question.

I've read the K3 kit manual a few times now but I'm certain that there is a lot 
of wisdom out there to be garnered from the collective experience of the group 
so I'm asking if you would take the time to share please?

73 de John, KK4OYJ



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Bill Turner

ORIGINAL MESSAGE:  (may be snipped)

On 5/3/2014 3:07 AM, John, 9H5G wrote:

The kit is in the mail so I thought it would be a good time to fire off my first email 
to the group and exit from lurk mode with a question.

I've read the K3 kit manual a few times now but I'm certain that there is a lot 
of wisdom out there to be garnered from the collective experience of the group 
so I'm asking if you would take the time to share please?

73 de John, KK4OYJ


REPLY:

The main thing I would suggest is if you are going to add any options, 
do it now rather than later. In my case, I added the digital voice 
recorder after the unit was built and that was a  big mistake. I had to 
practically disassemble the whole thing to add it. OK, I'm exaggerating, 
but not that much.


The other thing to be careful of is the sequence of assembly if you are 
adding the 100 watt amplifier. The instructions jump from the main 
manual to the amplifier manual and back again and I somehow got lost and 
as a result, skipped a few steps. I eventually figured it out but it was 
confusing. Pay very close attention to the sequence of steps.


If I were writing the manual, I would have two manuals - one for the 10 
watt unit and one for the 100 watt. Having to jump back and forth 
between two different manuals is not good.


One last thing. If you are installing the 100 watt amplifier, you have 
to go into the setup menu and activate it before it will work.


Otherwise it went well. The manuals are superb except for what I noted 
above. Have fun!


73, Bill W6WRT



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Re: [Elecraft] Cool your KX3 (fredem)

2014-05-03 Thread Phil Wheeler

Jim,

There are activities other than contesting, such 
as PSK31, which involve high duty cycles.


Many of us operate portable using external 
batteries. Heating may be academic with the 
internal batteries anyway, since the voltage 
limits the power available.


Phil w7ox

On 5/3/14, 12:26 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 5/2/2014 5:43 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
IMHO, the heatsink is an improvement to the KX3 
for those who do continuous duty data modes and 
want to operate at power levels in excess of 5 
watts. 


Yes, and equipment cooling is always a good 
thing. However -- note that the KXPA100 provides 
power gain of 16 dB, so it takes only 2.5W from 
the KX3 to get 100W out.


Another point. Even a contester who constantly 
CQs doesn't transmit for more than 4-8 seconds 
at a time and listens for 2 or 3 (if he doesn't 
listen for at least that long, he's a poor 
operator), and if he's making QSOs, the other 
guy is transmitting half of the time. And RTTY 
is the only keydown contesting mode. Also, the 
WSJT family of keydown modes like JT65, JT9, 
PSK441, and so on, transmit for 48 seconds and 
listen for 72 seconds. Finally, if you're 
transmitting for more than a minute or two at a 
time with RTTY or PSK, the other operator is 
probably bored to death with your brag tape.


To me, the value of that extra heat sink would 
be to allow me to run the KX3 barefoot closer to 
10W in those keydown modes. But for portable 
operation, the limitation is battery, not heat.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] Cool your KX3 (fredem)

2014-05-03 Thread Fred Meier
While the Cooler KX may not be necessary for each KX3, it is never the less 
available to every KX3 operator for whom this amazing radio has become their 
base or even only rig. 
Increasing among us do not have access to amplifiers, do not have access to 
resonant antennas, do not even have a dedicated ham shack. Compromised 
antennas, and improvised portable operations, emergency deployments, 
restrictive HOAs, crowded noisy living spaces, these are becoming normal rather 
than unusual ham operating scenarios. The KX3 meets the needs created by these 
circumstances.
I cannot say that the creators of the rig envisioned what their baby would grow 
up to become, but the assembly literature has now been revised to suggest that 
while the radio may be capable of 10 watts output, it is in fact intended that 
it do so under specific conditions.
We are pushing the rigs capabilities to new boundaries. That is what hams have 
done in the past out of a thirst for knowledge, it is what we do now out of 
necessity to be able to stay active. 
The Cooler KX addresses the well documented overheating of the KX3 when it is 
deployed on the ragged edge of its capabilities. When a KX3 is your favorite 
rig, when it is your only rig, QRP is not a luxury; it is a fact of life. When 
you have no amplifier, and the band conditions are changing, and your antenna 
is ‘tuned’ the radio warms up. When every watt that you paid for counts to seal 
the QSO deal, then the Cooler KX helps to get the job done, without any power 
consumed, without any station noise added. It simply and passively sucks the 
heat out of the radio, which can only be good for all of the components, not 
just the PAs.
You don’t have to buy a Cooler KX, but if you want one I will surely build one 
for you. Fred, VE7FMN
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Matt Zilmer
Hi John,

I believe you've made one of the better choices of your ham career.
I'm certain you won't look back.

Free advice:
1.  Inventory all the parts in the kit, especially the screws,
washers, nuts.  Be prepared to measure screw lengths with a shop rule.
2. If something seems like it doesn't fit correctly, then you've done
something wrong.  The K3 fits together perfectly; if it doesn't feel
right then you probably have the wrong hardware in place.
3.  Observe and follow the ESD precautions given in the assembly
manual.

There really aren't that many things you can do wrong.  Take your time
and enjoy the build.

I built one of the first kits in 2007 (#24).  Even then, just the
advice I gave above was enough.  All the wrinkles have been ironed out
since then.  You're dealing with a mature kit product now.

Operating the K3 is a learning experience, and if I were you I'd
consult this list as needed.  Elecraft's customer support is first
class and they'll help get you past a bump in the road if needed.

73,
matt W6NIA

On Sat, 3 May 2014 06:07:40 -0400, you wrote:

The kit is in the mail so I thought it would be a good time to fire off my 
first email to the group and exit from lurk mode with a question.

I've read the K3 kit manual a few times now but I'm certain that there is a 
lot of wisdom out there to be garnered from the collective experience of the 
group so I'm asking if you would take the time to share please?

73 de John, KK4OYJ
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Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
--
Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will
spend the first four sharpening the axe. -A. Lincoln
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Phil Wheeler

Congratulations, John!

If you have questions, just ask here; you should 
get answers from those in the know soon enough.


Another resource I like is this searchable 
database of past posts to this reflector: 
http://marc.info/?l=elecraft  There you can search 
by title, author or even based on the body of 
messages.  And it goes back a long time and makes 
for some interesting reading.


Have fun with your build. I'm sure you'll have the 
K3 up and running very soon.


73, Phil w7ox

On 5/3/14, 3:07 AM, John, 9H5G wrote:

The kit is in the mail so I thought it would be a good time to fire off my first email 
to the group and exit from lurk mode with a question.

I've read the K3 kit manual a few times now but I'm certain that there is a lot 
of wisdom out there to be garnered from the collective experience of the group 
so I'm asking if you would take the time to share please?

73 de John, KK4OYJ


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Bill W2BLC
Get a static protection mat and ground yourself - this will protect 
sensitive parts.


Use an egg carton for separation of the hardware.

Read each step twice, then proceed. Don't tighten anything until 
instructed to do so.


Do each step in order - there is a reason for it.

The process took me about fourteen hours - many take considerably less.

It is merely an exercise in assembly - no soldering. Not like a Heath 
Kit, rather more like an Erector Set.


After you scratch the operational surface of the rig, expect a steep 
learning curve - this is not a simple
rig and is capable of meeting nearly everyone's operational desires and 
requirements.


Bill K-Line

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Frank Precissi
Go to home depot (or wherever) and get a new #0 and #1 screwdriver for
assembly.  Last thing you want is a stripped out screw on your 2k dollar
rig because of $5 screwdriver was too big/small.

Frank
KG6EYC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Phil Hystad
I agree with the comment below but I also recommend you buy quality 
screwdrivers -- the best you can find with hardened tips so that the blades
on the philips head driver do not get screwed up which screws up and strips
the screws while you are screwing in the screw [I never realized how funny
and yet fun the word screw is].

73, phil, K7PEH


On May 3, 2014, at 8:21 AM, Frank Precissi vad...@gmail.com wrote:

 Go to home depot (or wherever) and get a new #0 and #1 screwdriver for
 assembly.  Last thing you want is a stripped out screw on your 2k dollar
 rig because of $5 screwdriver was too big/small.
 
 Frank
 KG6EYC
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] VCO Not Oscillating

2014-05-03 Thread Joseph Baxley via Elecraft
Don, Matt,

It is possible that I've mislabeled things, though I was trying to follow
the diagram they have before the schematics that describes each part. 
Really I've not got a lot of experience with electronics beyond a couple of
classes in college.  It's not something they stressed in the physics
department unfortunately.  That's part of why I'm building the rig.  It's an
educational experience :)  

I did wind up trying another J310 that I lifted out of the KIO2 option board
I purchased with no luck.  I have also ran over all the components in the
synthesizer looking for correct value and orientation.  I did not find
anything out of the ordinary.  At this point I am thinking of asking if the
fellows at Elecraft in California will look at it.  If I have to pull too
many parts I'd be afraid of damaging the RF board.  Once I get past this
part of assembly, I should be fine to finish the rig.  

Thanks,
Joseph  



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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] VCO Not Oscillating

2014-05-03 Thread Joseph Baxley via Elecraft
P.S.  I really would like to thank you all for your help.



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[Elecraft] KXPA100 - chart of drive versus power out - per band and pa.i temp

2014-05-03 Thread Jeff Herr
The manual states Maximum power output, as well as the drive power to reach
a given power output, both vary per-band.

Has anyone charted this?

How can I see the KX3 PA temp while driving the KXPA100 ?



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread David Cole
A friend of mine mentioned that the screws used in Icom radios and such
were some special type...  He even bought some special screwdriver for
them...  Something about the heads being slightly different from normal
Phillips head.  Any one know if this is true?
-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Sat, 2014-05-03 at 09:01 -0700, Phil Hystad wrote:
 I agree with the comment below but I also recommend you buy quality 
 screwdrivers -- the best you can find with hardened tips so that the blades
 on the philips head driver do not get screwed up which screws up and strips
 the screws while you are screwing in the screw [I never realized how funny
 and yet fun the word screw is].
 
 73, phil, K7PEH
 
 
 On May 3, 2014, at 8:21 AM, Frank Precissi vad...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  Go to home depot (or wherever) and get a new #0 and #1 screwdriver for
  assembly.  Last thing you want is a stripped out screw on your 2k dollar
  rig because of $5 screwdriver was too big/small.
  
  Frank
  KG6EYC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Walter Underwood
They may be a cross-point head instead of Phillips. Or possibly a JIS B 1012.

Cross-point heads really need a matching screwdriver. As far as I know, you can 
use a cross-point screwdriver for Phillips, but not vice-versa.

More detail here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives#Cross

wunder
K6WRU

On May 3, 2014, at 9:37 AM, David Cole d...@nk7z.net wrote:

 A friend of mine mentioned that the screws used in Icom radios and such
 were some special type...  He even bought some special screwdriver for
 them...  Something about the heads being slightly different from normal
 Phillips head.  Any one know if this is true?
 -- 
 Thanks and 73's,
 For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
 www.nk7z.net
 for MixW support see;
 http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
 for Dopplergram information see:
 http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
 for MM-SSTV see:
 http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info
 
 
 On Sat, 2014-05-03 at 09:01 -0700, Phil Hystad wrote:
 I agree with the comment below but I also recommend you buy quality 
 screwdrivers -- the best you can find with hardened tips so that the blades
 on the philips head driver do not get screwed up which screws up and strips
 the screws while you are screwing in the screw [I never realized how funny
 and yet fun the word screw is].
 
 73, phil, K7PEH
 
 
 On May 3, 2014, at 8:21 AM, Frank Precissi vad...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Go to home depot (or wherever) and get a new #0 and #1 screwdriver for
 assembly.  Last thing you want is a stripped out screw on your 2k dollar
 rig because of $5 screwdriver was too big/small.
 
 Frank
 KG6EYC
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 Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Anthony Scandurra
Yes, it's true.  JPS (Japanese standard) is ever so slightly different 
from the American standard.


73, Tony K4QE

On 5/3/2014 12:37, David Cole wrote:

A friend of mine mentioned that the screws used in Icom radios and such
were some special type...  He even bought some special screwdriver for
them...  Something about the heads being slightly different from normal
Phillips head.  Any one know if this is true?


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Anthony Scandurra

Oops...meant JIS...

On 5/3/2014 12:56, Anthony Scandurra wrote:
Yes, it's true.  JPS (Japanese standard) is ever so slightly different 
from the American standard.


73, Tony K4QE

On 5/3/2014 12:37, David Cole wrote:

A friend of mine mentioned that the screws used in Icom radios and such
were some special type...  He even bought some special screwdriver for
them...  Something about the heads being slightly different from normal
Phillips head.  Any one know if this is true?




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Re: [Elecraft] Cool your KX3 (fredem)

2014-05-03 Thread Jim Brown

On 5/3/2014 6:09 AM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
There are activities other than contesting, such as PSK31, which 
involve high duty cycles.


Yes. But as I noted, if you're making 5 minute transmissions, the other 
guy is probably bored to death. I would be.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Cool your KX3 (fredem)

2014-05-03 Thread Rick Bates, WA6NHC
It is the same regardless of mode.

Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

 On May 3, 2014, at 10:40 AM, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com wrote:
 
 Yes. But as I noted, if you're making 5 minute transmissions, the other guy 
 is probably bored to death. I would be.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Bill Turner

ORIGINAL MESSAGE:  (may be snipped)

On 5/3/2014 9:01 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:

I agree with the comment below but I also recommend you buy quality
screwdrivers -- the best you can find with hardened tips so that the blades
on the philips head driver do not get screwed up which screws up and strips
the screws while you are screwing in the screw [I never realized how funny
and yet fun the word screw is].

73, phil, K7PEH


REPLY:

One of the best and longest lasting screwdrivers you can get is the 
little tips made for power drivers. They fit into a standard 1/4 inch 
nutdriver and will outlast any regular screwdriver made for use by hand. 
Because they are made for power drivers they are incredibly tough. As a 
bonus, get a 1/4 inch nutdriver that is magnetic and the tips become 
magnetic too.


However, DO NOT be tempted to assemble  your K3 with a power 
screwdriver. Hand tighten only!


Good luck and have fun!

73, Bill W6WRT

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Gary W. Hvizdak
Earlier today Bill (W2BLC) wrote .

Use an egg carton for separation of the hardware.

--- - - - ---

WARNING!  WARNING!  WARNING!

Proper ESD precautions dictate that plastic or foam shouldn't be anywhere
near your ESD safe work area.  Technically, not anywhere near means at
least a foot away although I would suggest at least three, but preferable
six feet away so that it's not within arm's reach.

Therefore, DO NOT USE a plastic or a foam egg carton to sort/organize
hardware!  Only use a recycled paper egg cartoon, although I prefer a mini
muffin tin for this purpose.  In hindsight, a recycled paper egg carton
might be better from an ESD perspective, although a paper carton might
contain acids that can lead to corrosion over time.  (Probably not a concern
for someone who completes their K3 within 24 hours, but I had to set mine
aside for a couple of months mid-build due to health reasons.)

73,
Gary  KI4GGX



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Bill W2BLC
Good point regarding the plastic foam egg cartons. I never even thought 
about them, as all I ever see are the old style paper ones. Must be from 
living in a cave!


Bill K-Line


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[Elecraft] K3/100 and ProSet-K2 for sale

2014-05-03 Thread Stanley Byler
Meticulously assembled, tested, and calibrated K3/100 serial number 4921
that I only used about 20 hours.  Includes the matched ProSet-K2 headset,
an IOGear USB to serial adaptor, and all the manuals.  The price is $2100
plus shipping from Colorado Springs, CO.
Everything is in mint condition, without dust, and non-smoker.
Please contact via stanby...@gmail.com

Thanks.
Stan Byler
KG8L
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[Elecraft] K3 and Fldigi Help

2014-05-03 Thread Chester Alderman
I just downloaded Fldigi this morning and of course have not finished
reading the Fldigi yet!

I have most the functions working (I'm primarily interested in CW) but for
the life of me I have not been able to muddle my way through getting the
K3's frequency readout to propagate into Fldigi. I have imported my 14 year
old YPlog log history into Fldigi and I have Fldigi working well up to 100
wpm (is case I ever get back up there!!) and the CW generation sounds
excellent as I am running the sound card CW generation output into my full
wave audio bridge to key my K3.

I will be very grateful if someone who has this K3 frequency readout working
into Fldigi, would share their 'secrete' with me.

Thanks and 73,
Tom - W4BQF






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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft
If you are going to use the power tips a lot as hand drivers, but the magnetic 
handle to hold them, not a regular nut driver.  The difference is that the nut 
driver has a hardened tip and a recess for the bolt, but probably not magnetic. 
 The handle has a longer 1/4 inch recess, the magnet and no recess for the bolt 
which you do not need.  You can use the nut driver in a pinch, but the handle 
is better and they come in different lengths so you can reach things, not so 
important for a K3, but very important for airplanes.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
On Saturday, May 3, 2014 1:16 PM, Bill W2BLC w2...@nycap.rr.com wrote:
 
Good point regarding the plastic foam egg cartons. I never even thought 
about them, as all I ever see are the old style paper ones. Must be from 
living in a cave!

Bill K-Line



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[Elecraft] K3 AF Gain

2014-05-03 Thread Fred Jensen

Can't remember ever seeing this on the list:

My AF Gain control has lost its stop. :-)  It will go all the way around 
in either direction.  There is a barely perceptible hesitation where the 
stop was, and the control still controls the AF gain, however the 
loudness I like it at moves around if I adjust it.


Anybody seen this?

How hard will it be to remove and replace?

Should I try or let Elecraft do it?

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 AF Gain

2014-05-03 Thread iain macdonnell - N6ML
On Sat, May 3, 2014 at 11:58 AM, Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net wrote:
 Can't remember ever seeing this on the list:

 My AF Gain control has lost its stop. :-)  It will go all the way around in
 either direction.  There is a barely perceptible hesitation where the stop
 was, and the control still controls the AF gain, however the loudness I like
 it at moves around if I adjust it.

Seems like a stupid question, but I have to ask  are you sure it's
not just that the knob is loose?

73,

~iain / N6ML
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 AF Gain

2014-05-03 Thread Ken Widelitz
I had this happen when the AF knob cracked. Elecraft supplied a replacement
which cured the problem.

 

73, Ken, K6LA / VY2TT

 

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Fldigi Help

2014-05-03 Thread Don Wilhelm

Tom,

Are you using Hamlib? or RigCAT? 0r XML-RPC?
If so, have you configured that element telling it that a K3 is 
connected?  Tell it which COM port to use (whichever one is connected to 
the K3).  I find Hamlib to be the easiest.  If you use RigCAT, you may 
have to find and download the .xml file.
That part of the configuration is covered in the Fldigi User Manual at 
http://w1hkj.com/FldigiHelp-3.21/html/rig_control_page.html.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/3/2014 2:32 PM, Chester Alderman wrote:

I just downloaded Fldigi this morning and of course have not finished
reading the Fldigi yet!

I have most the functions working (I'm primarily interested in CW) but for
the life of me I have not been able to muddle my way through getting the
K3's frequency readout to propagate into Fldigi. I have imported my 14 year
old YPlog log history into Fldigi and I have Fldigi working well up to 100
wpm (is case I ever get back up there!!) and the CW generation sounds
excellent as I am running the sound card CW generation output into my full
wave audio bridge to key my K3.

I will be very grateful if someone who has this K3 frequency readout working
into Fldigi, would share their 'secrete' with me.



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread John, 9H5G
Gentlemen,

Thank you for a fantastic list of hints and tips so far! 

As Gary, KI4GGX, pointed out I should have mentioned the options that I have 
coming. It's a K3/100 with a KRX3 and a handful of filters. Simple but very 
effective, I'm sure.

Keep them coming please- I have a week more to fill while the UPS man pedals 
his way across the country :)

73 de John, KK4OYJ

On 3 May 2014, at 14:36, WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
wrote:

If you are going to use the power tips a lot as hand drivers, but the magnetic 
handle to hold them, not a regular nut driver.  The difference is that the nut 
driver has a hardened tip and a recess for the bolt, but probably not magnetic. 
 The handle has a longer 1/4 inch recess, the magnet and no recess for the bolt 
which you do not need.  You can use the nut driver in a pinch, but the handle 
is better and they come in different lengths so you can reach things, not so 
important for a K3, but very important for airplanes.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
On Saturday, May 3, 2014 1:16 PM, Bill W2BLC w2...@nycap.rr.com wrote:

Good point regarding the plastic foam egg cartons. I never even thought 
about them, as all I ever see are the old style paper ones. Must be from 
living in a cave!

Bill K-Line



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Matt Zilmer
Helping others is one of the main purposes of this list.  If we could
get the UPS guy to move faster, I'm sure we would.

73
matt, W6NIA

On Sat, 3 May 2014 15:51:19 -0400, you wrote:

Gentlemen,

Thank you for a fantastic list of hints and tips so far! 

As Gary, KI4GGX, pointed out I should have mentioned the options that I have 
coming. It's a K3/100 with a KRX3 and a handful of filters. Simple but very 
effective, I'm sure.

Keep them coming please- I have a week more to fill while the UPS man pedals 
his way across the country :)

73 de John, KK4OYJ

On 3 May 2014, at 14:36, WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
wrote:

If you are going to use the power tips a lot as hand drivers, but the magnetic 
handle to hold them, not a regular nut driver.  The difference is that the nut 
driver has a hardened tip and a recess for the bolt, but probably not 
magnetic.  The handle has a longer 1/4 inch recess, the magnet and no recess 
for the bolt which you do not need.  You can use the nut driver in a pinch, 
but the handle is better and they come in different lengths so you can reach 
things, not so important for a K3, but very important for airplanes.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
On Saturday, May 3, 2014 1:16 PM, Bill W2BLC w2...@nycap.rr.com wrote:

Good point regarding the plastic foam egg cartons. I never even thought 
about them, as all I ever see are the old style paper ones. Must be from 
living in a cave!

Bill K-Line



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[Elecraft] Possible bad KREF or K144XV Ref Lock or ???

2014-05-03 Thread Harry_Yingst via Elecraft
I have a recent K3 (2 months old) that has the KX144XV Two meter module
and the KXV144 Ref Lock. Today I installed the KBPF3 and some filters.

After installation I attempted to calibrate the TX Gain and it kept failing
on 60 meters.

Through testing what I found is that if I connect the KSYN3 directly to the
KREF3 and
not through the K144XV Ref Lock it will calibrate and appears to function
correctly.

I am let to believe that either the KREF board is not putting out
enough signal or the KXV144 Ref Lock is loading the line to much.

Has anyone else seen this issue?


Thank you





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Re: [Elecraft] K3 AF Gain

2014-05-03 Thread Mike K2MK
Hi Fred,

If it is an older K3 then it's probably the knob. Contact Elecraft support
and ask them to send you two new knobs. If the RF knob isn't already cracked
it will someday. This is a known problem with older units.

73,
Mike K2MK


k6dgw wrote
 Can't remember ever seeing this on the list:
 
 My AF Gain control has lost its stop. :-)  It will go all the way around 
 in either direction.  There is a barely perceptible hesitation where the 
 stop was, and the control still controls the AF gain, however the 
 loudness I like it at moves around if I adjust it.
 
 Anybody seen this?
 
 How hard will it be to remove and replace?
 
 Should I try or let Elecraft do it?
 
 73,
 
 Fred K6DGW





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http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-AF-Gain-tp7588451p7588458.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 AF Gain

2014-05-03 Thread Fred Jensen

On 5/3/2014 12:13 PM, iain macdonnell - N6ML wrote:


Seems like a stupid question, but I have to ask  are you sure it's
not just that the knob is loose?


Ummm ... well ... sort of.  When I went to tighten it, it broke into two 
pieces.  RF Gain knob is starting to crack too.  Sorry for the 
bandwidth, don't know why I always assume the worst.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org


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Re: [Elecraft] Cool your KX3 (fredem)

2014-05-03 Thread steve


On 05/03/2014 01:40 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 5/3/2014 6:09 AM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
There are activities other than contesting, such as PSK31, which 
involve high duty cycles.
for example, JT9 is key down for 2 minutes.  2 watts WILL work but 5+ 
may be needed for the conditions...  and yes, event JT65 at one minute 
can cause day dreams...

73, steve WB3LGC
Yes. But as I noted, if you're making 5 minute transmissions, the 
other guy is probably bored to death. I would be.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread K8JHR



On 5/3/2014 2:15 PM, Bill W2BLC wrote:
 as all I ever see are the old style paper ones. Must be from
 living in a cave!

--


Maybe, but even a cave man can do it !


 _  Anonymous ___







.
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Reports for the month of April

2014-05-03 Thread Kevin

Good Afternoon,
After a very weather agile week it has gotten back to normal: cold, 
cloudy, and wet.  But two days of sun with highs in the mid to upper 70s 
was nice.  It also set a record for the state. Yesterday started off 
warm but then the clouds came in from the first wave of this storm.  
Good thing too because I had no wood left.  As the clouds cooled things 
down I got to cutting.  By the time I had some wood into the house and 
the rest covered it started to rain.  Right now the fire feels very good 
after a night with lows in the high 30s.  This gave me time to write and 
log all contacts for the April nets.



April 6th, 2014
  On 14050.5 kHz at 2200z:
NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820
K0DTJ - Brian - CA - K3 - 4113
W6SU - John - CA - KX3 - 1837
W6HV - Troy - CA - K3 - 5811
N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994
KN5L - John - TX - KX3 - 1658
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139

April 7th, 2014
  On 7045 kHz at 0100z
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183
K0DTJ - Brian - CA - K3 - 4113

April 13th, 2014
  On 14050 kHz at 2200z:
NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
WB3AAL - Ron - PA - K2 - 1392
KF0QS - Bernie - CO - K2 - 6922
K0DTJ - Brian - CA - K3 - 4113

April 14th, 2014
  On 7045 kHz at 0100z:
WI6O - John - CA - K1 - 922
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183
K0DTJ - Brian - CA - K3 - 4113
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457

April 20th, 2014
  On 14050 kHz at 2200z:
NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820
W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139
N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457

April 21st, 2014
  On 7045 kHz at 0100z:
N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457

April 27th, 2014
  On 14050 kHz at 2200Z:
NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820
K9ZTV - Kent - MO - K3 - 21
AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398
KG7MZ - Dean - WA - K2 - 5319 or 5219?
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457

April 28th, 2014
  On 7045 kHz at 0100z:
K0DTJ - Brian - CA - K3 - 4113
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183
N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457

73,
Kevin.  KD5ONS  (Net Control Operator 5th Class)

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Pfizenmayer
John -  One  other small step for K3 assemblers  that  I felt should be done 
earlier is on page 58 of the K3 assembly manual  KNB3 installation 
procedure


My note to myself was the standoff for the noise blanker should be done 
BEFORE the KPA3 shield step or even earlier - it was a dog for me to get 
that standoff mounted after the KPA3 shield was in place.


73 Hank K7HP



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Gary W. Hvizdak
Sat May 3 19:24:08 EDT 2014 

Hank K7HP writes ...

John -  One  other small step for K3 assemblers  that  I felt should be done
earlier is on page 58 of the K3 assembly manual  KNB3 installation
procedure

My note to myself was the standoff for the noise blanker should be done
BEFORE the KPA3 shield step or even earlier - it was a dog for me to get
that standoff mounted after the KPA3 shield was in place.

--- - - - ---

I thought so at first as well but after studying the situation, realized
that it had to be done in the order specified.  (I don't recall why.)

73,
Gary  KI4GGX
K3 #2724


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Harry Yingst via Elecraft
I had to remove that standoff to get the shield out (and back in)
so I could cut a notch in the shield for the two meter antenna cable





 From: Gary W. Hvizdak gary.hviz...@cfl.rr.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; kk4...@gmail.com 
Sent: Saturday, May 3, 2014 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom
 

Sat May 3 19:24:08 EDT 2014 

Hank K7HP writes ...

John -  One  other small step for K3 assemblers  that  I felt should be done
earlier is on page 58 of the K3 assembly manual  KNB3 installation
procedure

My note to myself was the standoff for the noise blanker should be done
BEFORE the KPA3 shield step or even earlier - it was a dog for me to get
that standoff mounted after the KPA3 shield was in place.

--- - - - ---

I thought so at first as well but after studying the situation, realized
that it had to be done in the order specified.  (I don't recall why.)

73,
Gary  KI4GGX
K3 #2724


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Don Wilhelm

John,

As for the advice about screwdrivers, yes, get yourself a quality, new 
#1 phillips.  I like the ones from Ace Hardware with the blue handles 
(Pro Series), and I like the 8 inch length, just because I learned to 
use that length many, many years ago - pick whatever length you are 
comfortable with,but do buy a quality screwdriver from a reputable 
supplier - a bargain bin screwdriver tip is usually not cut with 
adequate precision.  If you can see shiny spots on the corners of the 
tip, it is not adequate for the task, it will slip and strip your 
screwheads.  My method of judging a phillips tip driver is if it does 
not hold a 3/16 inch phillips head screw when it is held horizontally, 
it is time for that screwdriver to be replaced.


I take issue with the suggestion to use magnetic holders and the insert 
bits.  I prefer not to have any magnetic tools at my electronics 
workbench, they attract stray bits of cutoff component leads and other 
things stick to the tools.  YMMV on that one - take your pick.  I use 
several magnetic holders to great benefit in the woodworking shop, but 
never at the electronics workbench.


As for anti-static, yes take measures - a wrist strap is a minimum, if 
you have an anti-static mat at the workbench, work on that surface, 
especially when handling unmounted boards.  Do NOT work on a completely 
conducting surface such as a bare metal desktop or cookie sheet, or 
aluminum foil or whatever - fully conductive surfaces can also create 
static damage when they contact that fully conductive surface and are a 
safety hazard if there are live power sources anywhere near.  Newspapers 
misted with a spray of water in addition to the wrist strap can be more 
effective than a fully conducting surface.  If you have no other 
alternative, cut open one of the black anti-static bags that the boards 
are packed in, connect it to a 1 megohm resistor with a clip lead, and 
ground the far end of the 1 megohm resistor to the center screw on an AC 
receptacle cover plate (your wrist strap can ground to the same place).


As has been said about the egg cartons, stay away from most plastic 
containers for sorting because plastics and foam stuff attracts a static 
charge.  If you need to sort the hardware into the various sizes, use 
metal tins (Altoids tins?) or paper cups.  If you are adept at spotting 
a screw size and length 'by eye', you can just dump all the hardware 
into a large box and pick the right ones from there.  Those having long 
term experience with woodworking measurements or metalworking will have 
that ability.

Make such judgements based on what you know about your abilities.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/3/2014 3:51 PM, John, 9H5G wrote:

Gentlemen,

Thank you for a fantastic list of hints and tips so far!

As Gary, KI4GGX, pointed out I should have mentioned the options that I have 
coming. It's a K3/100 with a KRX3 and a handful of filters. Simple but very 
effective, I'm sure.




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
There should be no need to cut any notch in the KPA3 shield for the 2 
meter antenna cable if the K144XV instructions are followed.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/3/2014 8:20 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:

I had to remove that standoff to get the shield out (and back in)
so I could cut a notch in the shield for the two meter antenna cable



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread David Cole
Old Heathkit trick. :)
-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Sat, 2014-05-03 at 14:15 -0400, Bill W2BLC wrote:
 Good point regarding the plastic foam egg cartons. I never even thought 
 about them, as all I ever see are the old style paper ones. Must be from 
 living in a cave!
 
 Bill K-Line
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Harry Yingst via Elecraft
You are 100% correct

That is why you should not install modules after a very long week

Thank you





 From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Saturday, May 3, 2014 8:35 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom
 

There should be no need to cut any notch in the KPA3 shield for the 2 
meter antenna cable if the K144XV instructions are followed.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 5/3/2014 8:20 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
 I had to remove that standoff to get the shield out (and back in)
 so I could cut a notch in the shield for the two meter antenna cable


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[Elecraft] Elecraft Kool Aid

2014-05-03 Thread David Cole
This humorous advert resulted in sale of Icom Pro III in under a few
hours.  I have since pulled the Crag's list ad.  It was posted to two of
my local mail lists for Oregon and Washington:

===CUT===

Hi all,

I have drank the Elecraft Kool-Aid and it was good!

My Icom Pro 3 is for sale:

http://eugene.craigslist.org/ele/4434712694.html

===CUT===
-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info



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[Elecraft] SSB net announcement

2014-05-03 Thread Phil Shepard
The weekly Elecraft SSB net is tomorrow at 1800Z on 14.3035 MHz.  I will be net 
control from western Oregon.  See you there.

73,
Phil, NS7P
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Reports for December 2013

2014-05-03 Thread Kevin
I am very close to finishing with my back log of reports.  Only a few 
odds and ends left.  With weather like this it is easy to get it done.


73,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS  (Net Control Operator 5th Class)


December 1st, 2013
  On 14050 kHz at 2300z:
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139
N0AR - Scott - MN - KX3 - 3941
K6MGO - Bill - CA - K3 - 5181
N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994
N7KRT - Jeff - TX - K2 - 5471
K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422
KN5L - John - TX - KX3 - 1658
K7FJ - Don - WA - K3 - 349
N0DA - Dan - OR - KX3 - 285

December 2nd, 2013
  On 7045.5 kHz at 0200z:
NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139
N7KRT - Jeff - TX - K2 - 5471
AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398

December 8th, 2013
  On 14050.5 kHz at 2300z:
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183
AC5P - Mike - OK - K3 - 2170
W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139
W7BV - Robert - AZ
N0AR - Scott - MN - KX3 - 3941
N7KRT - Jeff - TX - K2 - 5471

December 9th, 2013
  On 7045.5 kHz at 0200z:
N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183
N0AR - Scott - MN - KX3 - 3941
AC5P - Mike - IN - K3 - 2170

December 15th, 2013
  On 14050 kHz at 2300z:
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183
AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398
N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994
K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422
K0DTJ - Brian - CA - K3 - 4113
W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139
K6MGO - Bill - CA - K3 - 5181
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
KN5L - John - TX - KX3 - 1658
N7KRT - Jeff - TX - K2 - 5471

December 16th, 2013
  On 7044.5 kHz at 0200z:
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183
N7KRT - Jeff - TX - K2 - 5471
W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139
W7OK - Mark - WA

December 22nd, 2013
  On 14050.5 kHz at 2200z:
K0DTJ - Brian - CA - K3 - 4113
KN5L - John - TX - KX3 - 1658
N6MY - Ray - AZ
K6MGO - Bill - CA - K3 - 5181
N7KRT - Jeff - CA - K2 - 5471
W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139

December 23rd, 2013
  On 7045 kHz at 0200z:
NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
K0DTJ - Brian - CA - K3 - 4113
N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994
N7KRT - Jeff - TX - K2 - 5471
KS7D - Mike - FL - K3 - 118
W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139

December 29th, 2013
  On 14050 kHz at 2200z:
AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398
N0AR - Scott - MN - KX3 - 3941
K0DTJ - Brian - CA - K3 - 4113
W6HV - Troy - CA - K3 - 5811
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
N2YC - John - NY - K2 - 5949
N7KRT - Jeff - TX - K2 - 5471

December 30th, 2013
  On 7045 kHz at 0200z:
K0DTJ - Brian - CA - K3 - 4113
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398
W6JHV - Jim - CA - K3 - 4359
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183
W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139
K(A or G)2AX(T) ? - John - ??

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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2014-05-03 Thread Kevin

Good Evening,
During one of the very hot days this week I took time to hike down 
to the lower parts of my property.  While sitting on one of the fallen 
trees I heard a bird approaching; a large bird.  At first glance I 
thought it was a small crow but then he looked at me and resolved into a 
pileated woodpecker.  It was so still it was easy to hear him flying.  I 
guess he was curious about me because he kept to nearby trees for the 
next fifteen minutes before I got too hot and hiked back home.


   Propagation has been in the doldrums lately but the sun looks like 
it is heating up again.  There may be an X-class flare on the way but if 
it doesn't happen quickly it won't hit earth.  Though even with a miss 
we'll get a lot of ions to pump up propagation again.  Hopefully it will 
last a week or two.


Please join us tomorrow.

14050 kHz at 2200z Sunday (3 PM PDT Sunday)
 7045 kHz at 0100z Monday (6 PM PDT Sunday)

73,
Kevin. KD5ONS

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[Elecraft] K3 SSB problem

2014-05-03 Thread William Stewart
I have seen a problem when using the K3 in SSB. While trying to work a 
DX station on 10M, waiting for the next chance to call, something causes 
the K3 to stop transmitting on SSB. The PTT still works as normal and 
keys the K3 and the power amplifier. If I change to CW, it transmits as 
usual. I found the only way to correct this was to cycle power on the rig.


I finally was able to contact the DX station and had a brief exchange 
with him, but as I was signing off I could hear the K3 fading out - then 
no transmit power at all.


I have reloaded all the firmware (which was current).

I have been using this K3 for 3 years and I have never seen this problem 
before.


Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill K5EMI
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Kool Aid

2014-05-03 Thread Fred Jensen

On 5/3/2014 6:55 PM, David Cole wrote:


I have drank the Elecraft Kool-Aid and it was good!


and you're still alive!  Kool!

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org


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[Elecraft] K3 Util not responding

2014-05-03 Thread Larry Lopez
My K3 just came in by ground UPS.
The serial port doesn't seem to be working.
I tried K3 Util on Linux and it said K3 not responding.
I got a terminal program and short receive and transmit
at the Elecraft end and it echoed ok.

That means that Linux, the serial port and the cable are ok.
I checked the pin out of the cable.
It's a straight through cable like it's supposed to be.

I went to an XP system loaded K3 Util on it and tried there.
It continuously tries different baud rates and never stops.

I'll do some voltage measurements in a bit.





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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Util not responding

2014-05-03 Thread Larry Lopez
No USB to RS232 converters were used.
This is not a USB problem.




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Re: [Elecraft] Triggering KPA500 from 2 Radios

2014-05-03 Thread Val

David,

There should be no attenuation if you keep both transceivers on a
same band.

By the way, there is a device used mostly by the contesters who
need to share an amplifier: http://www.acom-bg.com/xvcr.html
Using it with K3:  http://www.kotarov.com/projects/k3-and-acom-2s1


73, Val LZ1VB



I have been using my K3/KPA500 setup for quite sometime.  I am using 
the
standard cable between the K3 ACC port and the KPA500 AUX for 
communications

between the radio and the amp.  This has worked perfectly from the
beginning.  At some time in the past, I wanted to use my Yaesu MKV 
Field to
excite the amp.  I connected both radios tho the KPA500 through a 
2-position
coax switch.  I also connect a cable from the MKV  to the KPA PA. 
KEY jack.

When I switched the amp from standby to operate, there was a huge
attenuation of the MKV's received signal.  When I unplugged the 
K3-KPA AUX
cable the problem went away.  The received signal level was fine and 
the amp
produced +/-500 watts with about 40 watts of drive from the MKV.  An 
earlier
message on the reflector indicated that this signal attenuation with 
the AUX
cable connected was likely due to voltage signals on the AUX lines. 
I

remove the MKV from the system and forgot about.

Well, I've rearranged my operating desk and would like to use the 
MKV a
little; I sure do like operating the old monster!  Next to the K3 
it is
the best radio I have had on the desk.  So, back to the amp issue. 
Has
anyone connected two radios--one being a K3 using the AUX cable--to 
the
KPA500, without having to plug/unplug cables to get everything to 
play

nicely?

73 de K6SBA
David in Santa Barbara, CA


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Util not responding

2014-05-03 Thread Larry Lopez
I'm going to test the cable in the morning.
I have two cables neither which works.
The one which came with the rig seems to be a cross over cable.
The one I tested is an APC connection cable which just happens
to have continuity on pin 2.

I get or make a real cable tomorrow and see if that works.





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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Util not responding

2014-05-03 Thread Larry Lopez
It was the cable sent to me.
I tested it wrong and thought it was a straight through cable.



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