date:20141215

[Elecraft] fldigi and K3 frequency readout

2014-12-15 Thread Bill Turner

Just learning how to use fldigi with my K3.  Got everything working,
almost. I'm using fldigi with the bridge to DXLab. 

As long as I have the K3 in USB mode, the frequency readout in fldigi
is correct, both the dial freq and the dial+audio freq.  But when I
change the K3 to data-a mode, the dial+audio readout is wrong, showing
only the dial freq.  Also, if I have the K3 in data-a mode and I
change modes in fldigi, the K3 goes back to USB.  

I could just leave the K3 in USB mode all the time, but that means
changing the mic input back and forth from line in each time I change
modes. 

I hope I made that clear. Is there a fix for this?

73, Bill W6WRT
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[Elecraft] P3: Span shifting beyond band edges

2014-12-15 Thread Rick Tavan

The P3 FixMode menu provides a great set of optional algorithms for what 
happens when you tune the radio beyond the current SPAN. I usually use Half 
Span which is great until it eventually moves a display edge below or above the 
current ham band. Although that would be fine for SWLing outside the ham bands, 
for amateur operation it would be very nice to have it stop at the band edge. 
Call it something like "Half Span in Band?" Any chance?

/Rick N6XI
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 S/N 5702 - Done

2014-12-15 Thread Matt VK2RQ

I think his K2 needs a panadapter :-)

73, Matt VK2RQ

> On 16 Dec 2014, at 3:18 pm, Phil Wheeler  wrote:
> 
> Very good, Frank. But now what will you do for building fun? :-)
> 
> 73, Phil W7OX
> 
>> On 12/15/14 7:35 PM, Frank Krozel wrote:
>> Got busy tonight…
>> 
>> KSB2 board installed, first contact old friends VE3CPK (ex-KC9X) and N9LAZ…
>> Havent talked to either of these guys in a long time.. Got great report on 
>> the new KSB2 board.
>> 
>> Then took out the Hakko again…
>> Installed the KPA100,  aligned it and tested it out - now have 100 watts out.
>> 
>> Done..
>> 
>> See ya on 40 CW..   de KG9H
> 
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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB net results for 11/30/2014

2014-12-15 Thread Phil Shepard

Here is the net report for the Elecraft SSB net from November 30, 2014.  We had 
36 participants.  

Station NameQTH Rig S/N

KF5IMA  Bruce   MS  K2  3575
K7EMF   GaryWA  K3  4628
AA7FArlen   WA  K3  8115
NC0JW   Jim CO  KX3 1356
N6JWJohnCA  K3  936
KC9USC  Robert  NV  KX3 4460
KC0XT   David   CA  KX3 6980
AD5IJ   Howard  OR  KX3 5178QRP
W4RKS   Jim TX  K3  3618
W0CZKen ND  K3  457
AB7CE   Roy MT  K2  40  
QRP
KG6TGC  GregCA  IC7000
K6WDE   DaveCA  KX3 4599
N0MEU   Jay CO  KX3 4351
N7GOD   Galen   WA  K2  6533
ZL1PWD  Peter   NZ  K3  139
W2RWA   DickNY  K3  2603
W8OVDaveTX  K3  3139
K1NWBrian   RI  K3  4974
WW4JF   JohnTN  K3  6185
KD7BCF  Wes OR  KX3 7071
KD4PS   DaveIL  KX3 
KE7HGE  Ken WA  KX3 4540
QRP
KD0MOA  JohnCO  KX3 3560
K6SAB   Steve   CA  K3  7497
KG2UTom NY  K3  6247
W7REK   Glenn   AZ  K3  2843
K9JCJoe OH  K3  6623
K8NUCarlOH  K3  7976
KC9LIF  KentIL  K3  6896
QRP
K4GCJ   Gerry   NC  K3  1597
WV5IDwayne  TX  K3  5287
KF7JZH  Ron ID  KX3 2262
QRP
W5KSU   MikeOK  K2  3669
QRP
WB7SDE  EricWA  K3  8312
NS7PPhilOR  K3  1826

73,
Phil, NS7P

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Re: [Elecraft] Blown trap?

2014-12-15 Thread Jim Stahl via Elecraft

A real world data point:


I recently ordered two MFJ 17 ft telescoping masts, which arrived today. Not 
exactly high tech. One of them was defective - a section that was jammed and 
would not come apart, along with an adjacent joint that felt way too loose.


HRO had me ship it back to them, and I'm sure they will replace it with a good 
one. But I've wasted $7 bucks to mail it back, plus time going to and waiting 
at the post office.


Fortunately I don't need it right away. But definitely a example of poor 
quality control.




73  -  Jim  K8MR




-Original Message-
From: Jim Brown 
To: elecraft 
Sent: Mon, Dec 15, 2014 8:59 pm
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Blown trap?


On Mon,12/15/2014 5:41 PM, Doug Person via Elecraft wrote:
> MFJ is always a good news/bad news company.

IMO the only good news about the MFJ companies is the same as the most 
common bad news -- CHEAP. Cheap construction, poor or non-existent 
quality control, poor support. I consider them a very poor corporate 
citizen, because their low prices push better products from better 
companies out of the market. Little difference from what WalMart has 
done to "main street" businesses.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 S/N 5702 - Done

2014-12-15 Thread Phil Wheeler

Very good, Frank. But now what will you do for 
building fun? :-)


73, Phil W7OX

On 12/15/14 7:35 PM, Frank Krozel wrote:

Got busy tonight…

KSB2 board installed, first contact old friends VE3CPK (ex-KC9X) and N9LAZ…
Havent talked to either of these guys in a long time.. Got great report on the 
new KSB2 board.

Then took out the Hakko again…
Installed the KPA100,  aligned it and tested it out - now have 100 watts out.

Done..

See ya on 40 CW..   de KG9H


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[Elecraft] Elecraft KX1 - a builder's review (some impriovements in the manuals required)

2014-12-15 Thread Johnny Siu

Re-sent in a better text format:

I recently built a Elecraft KX1 for a local ham in VR2 who cannot DIY himself 
dueto some reasons.  This KX1 comes with the KXB3080 30/80 module and KXAT1 ATU 
module. I would like to share with you some of my experience and views during 
the construction process.

The construction of the basic KX1 was straight forward and required less skill 
than K2.  Although the manual of KX1 is well written, it does not clearly take 
into account the possibly of the future construction of KXB3080 and KXAT1.  
This is the major deficiency of the manual and I would not expect that from 
Elecraft after constructing many K2s in the past.

The space tolerance with the installation of KXB3080 and KXAT1 is very tight 
especially near the low pass filters L1 & L2 area.  Therefore, the construction 
manual of KX1 should forth warn and draw the builder great attention: 
   
1.   - Page 32 of the KX1 manual, C46-C49, C54 should be soldered at the top 
(i.e.component) side with all the legs cut flush at the bottom side.  This will 
give more space for the future installation of LPF1 (tiny PCB) of KXB3080.
2.   - Don W3FPR had kindly sent me one page note of ‘building KXB3080 without 
unsoldering (almost)’ which was extremely useful.  This literature should be 
included in the KX1 manual. 

The tiny LPF1 pcb of KXB3080 is to be situated in the tight space formed 
between the C46-C49& C54 area of KX1 and R3-R4 & C10 area of KXAT1.  Therefore, 
Page 3 of KXAT1 manual, R3, R4& C10 should be soldered on the component side 
and cut flush on the other side. 

To summarize:  
1.   - Construction of KXB3080 especially the LPF1 low pass filter required a 
higher skill level similar to K2 and definitely nothing like beginner’s level;
2.   - Don W3FPR literature mentioned above should be included with the KX1 
manual as a standard reference.
 
Finally, back to performance, KX1 is a real nice little QRP radio with good RX 
selectivity and sensitivity.  However, the radio is very expensive when you add 
up the KXB3080 and KXAT1.  Try to compare with K1, K2 and KX3 in terms of price 
Vs performance before making your purchase decision.

73,
Johnny VR2XMC
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[Elecraft] Elecraft KX1 - a builder's review (some impriovements in the manuals required)

2014-12-15 Thread Johnny Siu

  Irecently built a Elecraft KX1 for a local ham in VR2 who cannot DIY himself 
dueto some reasons.  This KX1 comes with theKXB3080 30/80 module and KXAT1 ATU 
module. I would like to share with you some of my experience and views 
duringthe construction process. Theconstruction of the basic KX1 was straight 
forward and required less skill thanK2.  Although the manual of KX1 is 
wellwritten, it does not clearly take into account the possibly of the 
futureconstruction of KXB3080 and KXAT1.  Thisis the major deficiency of the 
manual and I would not expect that from Elecraftafter constructing many K2s in 
the past. Thespace tolerance with the installation of KXB3080 and KXAT1 is very 
tightespecially near the low pass filters L1 & L2 area.  Therefore, the 
construction manual of KX1should forth warn and draw the builder great 
attention:    
   - Page 32 of the KX1 manual, C46-C49, C54 should be soldered at the top 
(i.e.component) side with all the legs cut flush at the bottom side.  This will 
give more space for the futureinstallation of LPF1 (tiny PCB) of KXB3080.
   - Don W3FPR had kindly sent me one page note of ‘building KXB3080 
withoutunsoldering (almost)’ which was extremely useful.  This literature 
should be included in the KX1manual. 
The tinyLPF1 pcb of KXB3080 is to be situated in the tight space formed between 
the C46-C49& C54 area of KX1 and R3-R4 & C10 area of KXAT1.  Therefore, Page 3 
of KXAT1 manual, R3, R4& C10 should be soldered on the component side and cut 
flush on the otherside. To summarize:   
   - Construction of KXB3080 especially the LPF1 low pass filter required a 
higherskill level similar to K2 and definitely nothing like beginner’s level;
   - Don W3FPR literature mentioned above should be included with the KX1manual 
as a standard reference.
 Finally,back to performance, KX1 is a real nice little QRP radio with good 
RXselectivity and sensitivity.  However, the radio is very expensive when you 
add up the KXB3080 and KXAT1.  Try to compare with K1, K2 and KX3 in termsof 
price Vs performance before making your purchase decision.
73,
Johnny VR2XMC 
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Re: [Elecraft] Blown trap?

2014-12-15 Thread Rick Bates

Water intrusion?

73,
Rick wa6nhc

Tiny iPhone 5 keypad, typos are inevitable

> On Dec 15, 2014, at 9:28 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO  
> wrote:
> 
> The good news is that I called MFJ, got a technician immediately, he agreed 
> that the 30M trap is the problem, and said he would send me a new one under 
> warranty. Elecraft-style service (so far).
> 
> The bad news is that despite the statement in the manual that it is rated at 
> "1500W CW," he told me not to exceed 800-1000 watts. Not Elecraft-style 
> design/documentation!
> 
> So if you have an R8 or similar antenna, be warned. I wasn't tuning up or 
> running RTTY -- I was calling CQ on 40M running about 1200W.
> 
> Other bands are unchanged but 30 and 40M are gone.
> 
> Thanks to everyone that responded.
> 
>> On 15 Dec 2014 15:07, David Cole wrote:
>> Hi,
>> 
>> No matter what happens, you will probably end up taking the antenna
>> down...  If nothing else to check to be sure it is fine...
>> 
>> Grab an analyzer and connect it as close to the antenna base as
>> possible, and see if it is resonant on all bands...  Probably won't
>> anymore.  If you are lucky, it is some strange feedline thing, or a
>> connector issue, but having the antenna work on some bands, while not on
>> others reeks of blown trap.  I fear your diagnosis is in fact
>> correct...
>> 
>> If you are going to "fix" it, and if it were me, I would get a trapless
>> antenna of some sort...  No traps blow.  I currently use a GAP
>> Challenger DX, (trapless), and have a band by band review of it at:
>> http://nk7z.net/review-of-the-challenger-dx-antenna-by-gap-antenna/
>> 
>> The antenna takes power, and does not break, I have run 1000 Watts into
>> it on RTTY for 15 minutes with no issues.  I have had it up for at least
>> 7 years, and I think 10 or more years.  Never a problem beyond the three
>> radials coming off once...  It is a pretty good performer on 40, and 20.
>> I finally got one of the mono gaps, and it does a good job.  I do take
>> it down every few years and check things, and change out anything that
>> looks like it is going bad.
> 
> 
> -- 
> 73,
> Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
> Rehovot, Israel
> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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[Elecraft] K2 S/N 5702 - Done

2014-12-15 Thread Frank Krozel

Got busy tonight…

KSB2 board installed, first contact old friends VE3CPK (ex-KC9X) and N9LAZ… 
Havent talked to either of these guys in a long time.. Got great report on the 
new KSB2 board.

Then took out the Hakko again… 
Installed the KPA100,  aligned it and tested it out - now have 100 watts out.

Done.. 

See ya on 40 CW..   de KG9H

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Re: [Elecraft] LDMOS for QRO [OT]

2014-12-15 Thread Gerry Hull

Here's a 144MHz 1.5Kw water-cooled LDMOS amplifier putting out full power
in a June VHF contest, with me operating at W2SZ/1.
It was a cloudy day, and the amp was so cool, in fact, we were worried
about condensation.  Look at the size!  The power supply is a 50v/50a
surplus PC supply off of ebay.
The amp was built by Brian Justin, WA1ZMS.

I have found cold plates on the surplus market.   Every once in a while,
Electronic Surplus Sales in Manchester, NH has em.

Amp in Action:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vegBv6ddAUA

73

Gerry Hull, W1VE   | Hancock, NH USA
AKA: VE1RM | VY2CDX | VO1CDX | 6Y6C | 8P9RM
 

 

On Sun, Dec 14, 2014 at 6:32 PM, David Cutter  wrote:
>
> I'm a little surprised that folks in this group haven't suggested liquid
> cooling for this modest application.  Semiconductor cold plates have been
> around for a long time, are economical to use and in my view a much better
> solution than forced air cooling.  They are compact, quiet, require far
> less cabinet space, keep junctions cooler and more stable than air could
> ever and enable higher reliability.
>
> Look at Aavid for instance, whose devices I used on many occasions:
> http://www.aavid.com/sites/default/files/products/liquid/
> pdf/liquid-cold-plate-datasheet-hicontact.pdf
>
> If you play your cards right, you can cool the amplifier and the power
> supply on a short 4-pass plate.  Put the heat somewhere convenient, not in
> your shack.
>
> 73
>
> David
> G3UNA
>
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Re: [Elecraft] HI Current

2014-12-15 Thread Don Wilhelm


Bruce,

It would appear to me that something has happened in your 20 meter Low 
Pass Filter.
The K3 should develop 100 watts with about 17 amps of current.  As I 
indicated previously, the most common problem would be with the LPF.  
Contact K3support for additional assistance and steps to resolution.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/15/2014 9:19 PM, Bruce Chadbourne wrote:

Don, et. al.
Thanks for the replies. I can repeat this problem (a good thing) at 20m CW
around 14.115 Mhz.
Power supply (Astron VS-35M, front panel meters) showing proper voltage,
and current knob set toward max.
At 14.050, SWR reads 1.0 on the K3. Power set at 100w. Voltage reads 13.8v,
then with key down, K3 meter says 23 amps, voltage drops to 12.6vNo HI
CUR warning.

At 14.115, SWR still 1.0, 100 watts,  13.8v, put the key down, the HI CUR
warning appears most of the time (so I can't read voltage/amp on K3 meter).
One time it didn't show, and current was still 23-ish amps, and voltage
12.6; at which point I realized the rig had automatically reduced power
from 100 to 88 watts.   The ammeter on the Power supply reads about 17 amps
at both freqs, with and without HI CUR warning.  The power supply voltage
meter does not show the deflection below 13v, stays rock steady. That seems
to say the voltage drop under load is happening at the terminals or power
cord

Per your suggestion I checked the lugs on the back of the power supply -
very firm, but I guess  I'll disconnect the leads and clean them and repeat
the test.
I guess my question to the experts in the group: does a 1.2 volt drop at
the rig sound normal at 100w? I am using the power lead that came with the
K3 kit; it looks healthy, hasn't been out of the shack on any field day ops


On Mon, Dec 15, 2014 at 4:20 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Bruce,

I would expect a Hi REFL message rather than Hi Cur if SWR was the problem.
Check your power supply connections.  If you have bolts and nuts on the
power supply output terminals, if the bolts turn (even slightly) when you
tighten the nuts, you will have to dig inside the power supply to fully
tighten the bolts to the lugs on the inside.

With Elecraft gear, a low power supply voltage will result in a higher
current draw from the power supply.  Elecraft gear seeks to maintain the
requested power output, and a low supply voltage means that the current
must increase to maintain the power level.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 12/14/2014 4:18 PM, Bruce Chadbourne wrote:


To the list:

I occasionally get the Hi Current warning on my K3. I notice it cuts my
power back about 10% from 100w.  My initial assumption is that my SWR is
too high - but the SWR meter is easily less than 2.0  I run the ATU which
confirms SWR about 1.2 or so.
So what am I missing - something bad in my transmission line?




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Re: [Elecraft] HI Current

2014-12-15 Thread Bruce Chadbourne

Gerry responded to me off-list (below). I think your "Siri translation"
meant reseating all plugs on the K3 and and maybe "Colex" was "coax."  In
response, yes I think I'm ok on those two points but will keep my eyes
open.  Interesting that a couple other guys are seeing this. So far I think
it's only 20m; again, I'll have to keep a better system log.

Somebody else mentioned the Anderson pole connector - I've been in good
shape for several years so I expect it had been assembled correctly; but
I'm wondering if the connector surfaces are known for oxidizing?
Bruce / KE1CY

"I have not been following all of the messages in this thread, so if I am
repeating something I am sorry. Have you checked grounds? Also have you
checked to make sure that all of the Colex connectors are tight and have
you tried receiving all of the plugs on the K-3? Thank you and Merry
Christmas from WB6 I VfI am dictating this message through Siri, so I
apologize for spelling and grammar.

Sent from my iPhone this time"


On Tue, Dec 16, 2014 at 2:26 AM, Gerry leary 
wrote:
>
> I have not been following all of the messages in this thread, so if I am
> repeating something I am sorry. Have you checked grounds? Also have you
> checked to make sure that all of the Colex connectors are tight and have
> you tried receiving all of the plugs on the K-3? Thank you and Merry
> Christmas from WB6 I VfI am dictating this message through Siri, so I
> apologize for spelling and grammar.
>
> Sent from my iPhone this time
>
> > On Dec 15, 2014, at 7:19 PM, Bruce Chadbourne <
> bruce.chadbou...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Don, et. al.
> > Thanks for the replies. I can repeat this problem (a good thing) at 20m
> CW
> > around 14.115 Mhz.
> > Power supply (Astron VS-35M, front panel meters) showing proper voltage,
> > and current knob set toward max.
> > At 14.050, SWR reads 1.0 on the K3. Power set at 100w. Voltage reads
> 13.8v,
> > then with key down, K3 meter says 23 amps, voltage drops to 12.6vNo
> HI
> > CUR warning.
> >
> > At 14.115, SWR still 1.0, 100 watts,  13.8v, put the key down, the HI CUR
> > warning appears most of the time (so I can't read voltage/amp on K3
> meter).
> > One time it didn't show, and current was still 23-ish amps, and voltage
> > 12.6; at which point I realized the rig had automatically reduced power
> > from 100 to 88 watts.   The ammeter on the Power supply reads about 17
> amps
> > at both freqs, with and without HI CUR warning.  The power supply voltage
> > meter does not show the deflection below 13v, stays rock steady. That
> seems
> > to say the voltage drop under load is happening at the terminals or power
> > cord
> >
> > Per your suggestion I checked the lugs on the back of the power supply -
> > very firm, but I guess  I'll disconnect the leads and clean them and
> repeat
> > the test.
> > I guess my question to the experts in the group: does a 1.2 volt drop at
> > the rig sound normal at 100w? I am using the power lead that came with
> the
> > K3 kit; it looks healthy, hasn't been out of the shack on any field day
> ops
> >
> >
> >> On Mon, Dec 15, 2014 at 4:20 PM, Don Wilhelm 
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Bruce,
> >>
> >> I would expect a Hi REFL message rather than Hi Cur if SWR was the
> problem.
> >> Check your power supply connections.  If you have bolts and nuts on the
> >> power supply output terminals, if the bolts turn (even slightly) when
> you
> >> tighten the nuts, you will have to dig inside the power supply to fully
> >> tighten the bolts to the lugs on the inside.
> >>
> >> With Elecraft gear, a low power supply voltage will result in a higher
> >> current draw from the power supply.  Elecraft gear seeks to maintain the
> >> requested power output, and a low supply voltage means that the current
> >> must increase to maintain the power level.
> >>
> >> 73,
> >> Don W3FPR
> >>
> >>
> >>> On 12/14/2014 4:18 PM, Bruce Chadbourne wrote:
> >>>
> >>> To the list:
> >>>
> >>> I occasionally get the Hi Current warning on my K3. I notice it cuts my
> >>> power back about 10% from 100w.  My initial assumption is that my SWR
> is
> >>> too high - but the SWR meter is easily less than 2.0  I run the ATU
> which
> >>> confirms SWR about 1.2 or so.
> >>> So what am I missing - something bad in my transmission line?
> >
> > --
> > Bruce Chadbourne PgMP
> > 1034 W Beagle Run Loop
> > Hernando, FL 34442
> > 352-453-5456
> >
> > If urgent, the best way to reach me is by phone. Thank you.
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > Message delivered to gerrylear...@me.com
>


-- 
Bruce Chadbourne PgMP
1034 W Beagle Run Loop
Hernando, FL 34442
352-453-5456

If urgent, the best way to reach me is by phone. Thank

Re: [Elecraft] HI Current

2014-12-15 Thread Bruce Chadbourne

Don, et. al.
Thanks for the replies. I can repeat this problem (a good thing) at 20m CW
around 14.115 Mhz.
Power supply (Astron VS-35M, front panel meters) showing proper voltage,
and current knob set toward max.
At 14.050, SWR reads 1.0 on the K3. Power set at 100w. Voltage reads 13.8v,
then with key down, K3 meter says 23 amps, voltage drops to 12.6vNo HI
CUR warning.

At 14.115, SWR still 1.0, 100 watts,  13.8v, put the key down, the HI CUR
warning appears most of the time (so I can't read voltage/amp on K3 meter).
One time it didn't show, and current was still 23-ish amps, and voltage
12.6; at which point I realized the rig had automatically reduced power
from 100 to 88 watts.   The ammeter on the Power supply reads about 17 amps
at both freqs, with and without HI CUR warning.  The power supply voltage
meter does not show the deflection below 13v, stays rock steady. That seems
to say the voltage drop under load is happening at the terminals or power
cord

Per your suggestion I checked the lugs on the back of the power supply -
very firm, but I guess  I'll disconnect the leads and clean them and repeat
the test.
I guess my question to the experts in the group: does a 1.2 volt drop at
the rig sound normal at 100w? I am using the power lead that came with the
K3 kit; it looks healthy, hasn't been out of the shack on any field day ops

On Mon, Dec 15, 2014 at 4:20 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>
> Bruce,
>
> I would expect a Hi REFL message rather than Hi Cur if SWR was the problem.
> Check your power supply connections.  If you have bolts and nuts on the
> power supply output terminals, if the bolts turn (even slightly) when you
> tighten the nuts, you will have to dig inside the power supply to fully
> tighten the bolts to the lugs on the inside.
>
> With Elecraft gear, a low power supply voltage will result in a higher
> current draw from the power supply.  Elecraft gear seeks to maintain the
> requested power output, and a low supply voltage means that the current
> must increase to maintain the power level.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 12/14/2014 4:18 PM, Bruce Chadbourne wrote:
>
>> To the list:
>>
>> I occasionally get the Hi Current warning on my K3. I notice it cuts my
>> power back about 10% from 100w.  My initial assumption is that my SWR is
>> too high - but the SWR meter is easily less than 2.0  I run the ATU which
>> confirms SWR about 1.2 or so.
>> So what am I missing - something bad in my transmission line?
>>
>>
>

-- 
Bruce Chadbourne PgMP
1034 W Beagle Run Loop
Hernando, FL 34442
352-453-5456

If urgent, the best way to reach me is by phone. Thank you.
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Re: [Elecraft] Blown trap?

2014-12-15 Thread dave



I see nothing wrong with MFJ. They serve the market reasonably well, 
if they did not they would soon be out of business. If MFJ was 
actually as bad as some of the posts you read, they would be out of 
business rather soon. But they keep humming along.


Lets face it, hams are cheap. They like cheap stuff, even if it has a 
few warts.


If MFJ raised their quality, and, of course, prices, accordingly (as 
they would have to), you know what would happen? Another company would 
soon spring up that looks a whole lot like the current incarnation of 
MFJ. Why? Well, because hams are cheap. They buy cheap stuff. Warts 
and all.


I have had problems with some of the MFJ stuff I have bought. I have 
gotten reasonable service when I called or sent a message. Not super 
fast service, but commensurate with the price paid. What else is 
reasonable to expect?


73 de dave
ab9ca/4



On 12/15/14 7:54 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On Mon,12/15/2014 5:41 PM, Doug Person via Elecraft wrote:

MFJ is always a good news/bad news company.


IMO the only good news about the MFJ companies is the same as the most
common bad news -- CHEAP. Cheap construction, poor or non-existent
quality control, poor support. I consider them a very poor corporate
citizen, because their low prices push better products from better
companies out of the market. Little difference from what WalMart has
done to "main street" businesses.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Blown trap?

2014-12-15 Thread Jim Brown


On Mon,12/15/2014 5:41 PM, Doug Person via Elecraft wrote:

MFJ is always a good news/bad news company.


IMO the only good news about the MFJ companies is the same as the most 
common bad news -- CHEAP. Cheap construction, poor or non-existent 
quality control, poor support. I consider them a very poor corporate 
citizen, because their low prices push better products from better 
companies out of the market. Little difference from what WalMart has 
done to "main street" businesses.


73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] Fwd: ARRL 10-m contest

2014-12-15 Thread Gerry Hull

Hey Wayne et al,

I used the K3 and K3/0 mini combo along with the RRC boxes to operate the
ARRL 10m contest remote from K2LE's contest station in Vermont.

Wayne, I was interested in your QSK comments.  I was using QSK on the
remote, and it was working pretty well.

I notice, however, two strange things with QSK, both remote and local...

At any speed, if I engage the RIT or go split, the QSK sounds very
different.
At 40wpm and above, the sidetone is not clean -- it seems to clip.  I know,
however, that the generated CW is just fine.

Is this something that the beta firmware will take care of?

BTW, for those of you who are contemplating CW contesting remotely using
the K3+RemoteRig, you can be rest assured that it performs
flawlessly.  Latency is not an issue.  Here's a snapshot of my rate
analysis for the contest:

The best 60 minute rate was 196/hour from 1249 to 1348
The best 30 minute rate was 220/hour from 1319 to 1348
The best 10 minute rate was 270/hour from 1330 to 1339

The best 1 minute rates were:
 6 QSOs/minute4 times.
 5 QSOs/minute9 times.
 4 QSOs/minute   74 times.
 3 QSOs/minute  143 times.
 2 QSOs/minute  172 times.
 1 QSOs/minute  167 times.

So, remote is exactly like being there!  In this operation, K2LE station
end is 1.5Mbps DSL, my end 105Mbps cable.

73.

Gerry Hull, W1VE   | Hancock, NH USA
AKA: VE1RM | VY2CDX | VO1CDX | 6Y6C | 8P9RM
 

 

-- Forwarded message --
From: Wayne Burdick 
Date: Mon, Dec 15, 2014 at 10:58 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] ARRL 10-m contest
To: Elecraft Reflector 

Hi all,

I only had an hour or so of contest time, but the band was in great shape
and I worked everyone I called in both SSB and CW mode (35 QSOs in 19
states).

Just to make it more challenging, I kept power set to 5.0 watts, and used
my 6-meter antenna exclusively (not a typo--yes, this was on 10 meters).
It's a pair of 6-meter hamsticks forming a dipole, supported by a push-up
mast at about 20'. It's fed with LMR400 coax, then connected to the K3,
which has a KAT3 ATU. The ATU can tune this antenna on 20-6 meters. While
it certainly isn't very efficient on bands below 6 meters, it was good
enough to have some fun in the contest.

I was using the latest K3 firmware (rev. 5.01), which has excellent QSK
audio characteristics as reported by those using this  field-test release.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] Blown trap?

2014-12-15 Thread Doug Person via Elecraft

I had a similar problem with a Cushcraft antenna.  They also promised me 
an immediate replacement.  I waited, sent email, waited, sent email, 
called - left message, finally after about 2 months I received the 
replacement parts.


So, hold off judgement on their service until you have parts in hand.  I 
also had a new but defective 259C analyzer.  Sent it in for "No Matter 
What" warranty.  It took 65 days to get it back. I could go on.


Many people have shared their MFJ experiences in the past.  MFJ is 
always a good news/bad news company.  Many interesting products, but 
consistently falling short on quality and service.


I'm glad Cushcraft was bought rather than allowed to go under - just 
like Hy-Gain.  But, I am always suspicious of any of their products.


73, Doug -- K0DXV

On 12/15/2014 10:28 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO wrote:
The good news is that I called MFJ, got a technician immediately, he 
agreed that the 30M trap is the problem, and said he would send me a 
new one under warranty. Elecraft-style service (so far).


The bad news is that despite the statement in the manual that it is 
rated at "1500W CW," he told me not to exceed 800-1000 watts. Not 
Elecraft-style design/documentation!


So if you have an R8 or similar antenna, be warned. I wasn't tuning up 
or running RTTY -- I was calling CQ on 40M running about 1200W.


Other bands are unchanged but 30 and 40M are gone.

Thanks to everyone that responded.

On 15 Dec 2014 15:07, David Cole wrote:

Hi,

No matter what happens, you will probably end up taking the antenna
down...  If nothing else to check to be sure it is fine...

Grab an analyzer and connect it as close to the antenna base as
possible, and see if it is resonant on all bands...  Probably won't
anymore.  If you are lucky, it is some strange feedline thing, or a
connector issue, but having the antenna work on some bands, while not on
others reeks of blown trap.  I fear your diagnosis is in fact
correct...

If you are going to "fix" it, and if it were me, I would get a trapless
antenna of some sort...  No traps blow.  I currently use a GAP
Challenger DX, (trapless), and have a band by band review of it at:
http://nk7z.net/review-of-the-challenger-dx-antenna-by-gap-antenna/

The antenna takes power, and does not break, I have run 1000 Watts into
it on RTTY for 15 minutes with no issues.  I have had it up for at least
7 years, and I think 10 or more years.  Never a problem beyond the three
radials coming off once...  It is a pretty good performer on 40, and 20.
I finally got one of the mono gaps, and it does a good job.  I do take
it down every few years and check things, and change out anything that
looks like it is going bad.





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Re: [Elecraft] LDMOS for QRO [OT]

2014-12-15 Thread Richard Solomon

I did a random selection of 3 of their alleged distributors and found 
nothing on

their sites.

Too bad, they look like they could be useful. Guess I'll ping them 
directly and see

what I get.

73 es HH, Dick, W1KSZ


On 12/14/2014 4:32 PM, David Cutter wrote:
I'm a little surprised that folks in this group haven't suggested 
liquid cooling for this modest application. Semiconductor cold plates 
have been around for a long time, are economical to use and in my view 
a much better solution than forced air cooling.  They are compact, 
quiet, require far less cabinet space, keep junctions cooler and more 
stable than air could ever and enable higher reliability.


Look at Aavid for instance, whose devices I used on many occasions:
http://www.aavid.com/sites/default/files/products/liquid/pdf/liquid-cold-plate-datasheet-hicontact.pdf 



If you play your cards right, you can cool the amplifier and the power 
supply on a short 4-pass plate.  Put the heat somewhere convenient, 
not in your shack.


73

David
G3UNA

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Re: [Elecraft] ARRL 10-m contest

2014-12-15 Thread Bill Davis via Elecraft

 After reading Burt N4CW comment ... I have a 3" muffin fan laying on top of my 
KXPA100. I use a series resistor in the 12v source and the fan runs at reduced 
speed all the time. Receiver noise  masks the fan noise and I can run RTTY , 
PSK etc non stop with a "cool to touch" heat sink. I have been very active 
chasing the ARRL Centennial stations, so considerable RTTY and a bit of PSK31. 

  Been a ham 59years and the this was first 10m SSB contest I ever participated 
in. Also first time I ever used the N1MM logger+. I had a good time using 
non-resonate 80m and 40m dipoles and the KXPA100 driven by my K3/10. 

  73  Bill  K0AWU
  From: Bert via Elecraft 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Monday, December 15, 2014 1:35 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ARRL 10-m contest
   
I used my KX3 and KXPA100 for the 14 hours I was on. I recently had gone  
through the rx sideband nulling procedure and really enjoyed single-signal  
reception. The amp got pretty hot...it definitely needs external cooling of 
some  sort. I didn't take any PA temp readings, but the heatsink was  
uncomfortable to touch during long spells of "running" at 100W output.
 
The KX3 is an outstanding performer, even if QSK isn't as quiet as the K3  
with FW 5.01 :~)
 
73, Bert, N4CW
 
 
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[Elecraft] NAQCC MiliiWat Sprint Wednesday Night

2014-12-15 Thread Larry Makoski

NAQCC Milliwatt Sprint Wednesday night!

The December MilliWatt sprint is this coming Wednesday evening local time 
(December 17th,
EST - 8:30-10:30PM, CST - 7:30-9:30PM, MST - 6:30-8:30PM, PST - 5:30-7:30PM),
which translates as Thursday, December 18th, 0130 to 0330Z in all cases.

For all the "official" information, please go to:

http://http://naqcc.info/sprint201412mw.html

There you will find all the details as to time, frequencies and other important
information.

Certificates: SWA (simple wire antennas) certificates by call area, VE and DX
for 1st, 2nd and 3rd place finishers (New!). A Certificate for top score in the
GAIN antenna category.

This is a special event that caters to the CW veteran, the CW newcomer, straight
key and bug fans. All are welcome to participate (this includes QRO); but you
must use QRPp power levels (999 mW or less) to compete for prizes.

If you've been hesitant to join in our sprints because you hear other sprints
running at breakneck speeds, have no fear. Our sprints are geared to the
newcomer to CW and/or contesting. Virtually everyone including the many veteran
contesters who regularly enter our sprints will slow down to YOUR speed to help
you make your contacts.

If you are not already a member of NAQCC... membership is FREE! Now is your
chance to join the largest QRP CW Club in the world!! We currently have 7100+
members in: All 50 States - 9 VE Provinces - 100 Countries. Sign up on the
NAQCC website today (http://naqcc.info/) and receive a handsome certificate,
with your membership number on it, which is good for life.

Come join us and have a real good time!

72/73 de Larry W2LJ
NAQCC #35

for NAQCC
http://naqcc.info/


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Re: [Elecraft] Blown trap?

2014-12-15 Thread David Cole

"cost engineering"

Jim you are a gentlemen...  
-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Mon, 2014-12-15 at 16:00 -0800, Jim Brown wrote:
> On Mon,12/15/2014 11:32 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO wrote:
> > The manual on the MFJ website now specifies that the antenna can 
> > handle 1500 watts SSB without compression, 750 watts CW, and 500 watts 
> > RTTY.
> 
> One might suspect that MFJ did some "cost engineering" on the original 
> Cushcraft design.
> 
> Wouldn't be the first time.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 connections

2014-12-15 Thread Don Wilhelm


Rick,

The cable kit makes it 'plug-n-play'.  Well worth the $39.95 IMHO, but 
may vary on how you value your time and frustration level.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/15/2014 7:01 PM, Rick Dettinger wrote:

Thanks Don,

I did read the instructions wrong.  I was distracted by the idea that the KXPA100 would 
be "plug and play" with the companion KX3 transceiver.  Since it is unlikely 
that I will be able to find a cable with an RCA plug on one end, and a 2.5 mm stereo plg 
on the other, without tip wire, it looks like a custom job.
I don't know if I would have a use for the features of the KXCABLE, since I 
don't have a high power amp, a KXAT100 or a computer in my shack.
I do appreciate the fact that it would be necessary to modify connection cables 
for unknown brand X transceivers.


73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW









  
On Dec 15, 2014, at 3:35 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:



Rick,

The manual does *not* state that an RCA plug will be used on both ends of the 
Keyline cable.
Yes, the KXPA100 end is an RCA plug and that is clearly shown, but the other 
end must match the transceiver and since several types of connectors are used 
on transceivers for KEYOUT, the KXPA100 must be ambiguous about the connector 
on the transceiver end (i.e. the FT-817 uses a DIN connector IIRC).

In the case of the KX3, a 2.5mm stereo plug is needed.  The ring contact is 
keyline output and the shield or common conductor of the cable connects to the 
shell.

It may be easier to just order the KXPACBL than cutting your cable and wiring 
in the 2.5mm stereo plug.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/15/2014 5:19 PM, Rick Dettinger wrote:

Guess what? I need assistance!
I am attempting to connect my KX3 to my new KXPA100, and am stumped with the 
Key Line Cable shown on page 8.
This is a doubled ended RCA plug type cable.  It references fig 5 on pg 18 for 
the basic installation, (no KXPACBL).
Paragraph 6, pg 19, seems to say that the Key Line Cable goes to ACC2 on the 
KX3.  Great, except the RCA plug does not  come close to fitting the 3.5 mm 
ACC2 jack.  What am I doing wrong?

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW


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Re: [Elecraft] Blown trap?

2014-12-15 Thread Jim Brown


On Mon,12/15/2014 11:32 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO wrote:
The manual on the MFJ website now specifies that the antenna can 
handle 1500 watts SSB without compression, 750 watts CW, and 500 watts 
RTTY.


One might suspect that MFJ did some "cost engineering" on the original 
Cushcraft design.


Wouldn't be the first time.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 connections

2014-12-15 Thread Rick Dettinger

Thanks Don,

I did read the instructions wrong.  I was distracted by the idea that the 
KXPA100 would be "plug and play" with the companion KX3 transceiver.  Since it 
is unlikely that I will be able to find a cable with an RCA plug on one end, 
and a 2.5 mm stereo plg on the other, without tip wire, it looks like a custom 
job.
I don't know if I would have a use for the features of the KXCABLE, since I 
don't have a high power amp, a KXAT100 or a computer in my shack. 
I do appreciate the fact that it would be necessary to modify connection cables 
for unknown brand X transceivers.


73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW









 
On Dec 15, 2014, at 3:35 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> Rick,
> 
> The manual does *not* state that an RCA plug will be used on both ends of the 
> Keyline cable.
> Yes, the KXPA100 end is an RCA plug and that is clearly shown, but the other 
> end must match the transceiver and since several types of connectors are used 
> on transceivers for KEYOUT, the KXPA100 must be ambiguous about the connector 
> on the transceiver end (i.e. the FT-817 uses a DIN connector IIRC).
> 
> In the case of the KX3, a 2.5mm stereo plug is needed.  The ring contact is 
> keyline output and the shield or common conductor of the cable connects to 
> the shell.
> 
> It may be easier to just order the KXPACBL than cutting your cable and wiring 
> in the 2.5mm stereo plug.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 12/15/2014 5:19 PM, Rick Dettinger wrote:
>> Guess what? I need assistance!
>> I am attempting to connect my KX3 to my new KXPA100, and am stumped with the 
>> Key Line Cable shown on page 8.
>> This is a doubled ended RCA plug type cable.  It references fig 5 on pg 18 
>> for the basic installation, (no KXPACBL).
>> Paragraph 6, pg 19, seems to say that the Key Line Cable goes to ACC2 on the 
>> KX3.  Great, except the RCA plug does not  come close to fitting the 3.5 mm 
>> ACC2 jack.  What am I doing wrong?
>> 
>> 73,
>> Rick Dettinger  K7MW
>> 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] HI Current

2014-12-15 Thread Don Wilhelm


Ken,

Now that I see some numbers and know that you are running into a dummy 
load, it would appear that you have a low pass filter problem on 20 meters.


I suggest you contact K3support.  A common cause of HiCurrent is a 
problem in one of the Low Pass Filters.  Support may be able to lead you 
through determination if that is really the problem and if so, is it in 
the low power 20 meter LPF or in the KPA3 LPF.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/15/2014 3:57 PM, Ken wrote:

Mike,

It’s not “voltage starved.”   I just went through and documented everything.  
Voltage measured by the K3 never gets below 13.1 volts.  The problem is ONLY on 
20m where “high current” displays at 65 watts.  And indeed it is comparatively 
high current, 23.5 amps.   On the other bands I can run 100w without the 
current getting that high.

ALL TESTS DONE WITH A DUMMY LOAD  (or a live antenna and the internal antenna 
tuner or an external antenna tuner.)

I wonder if the other people experiencing the high current message are seeing 
it on other bands, or only 20m.

Ken WA8JXM



On Dec 15, 2014, at 12:20 PM, Mike Harris  wrote:

It isn't, however, the load on the PA is band selective depending upon the 
antenna match and this can effect the current.  12.1v is forcing the PA to draw 
more current to deliver the power requested.  Any particular reason you are 
running voltage starved?

Regards,

Mike VP8NO

On 15/12/2014 14:03, Ken wrote:

In my case, the K3’s internal volt meter is indicating 12.1v, well above the 
minimum specs.   I am pretty sure this only happens on 20m, never on other 
bands.  I wouldn’t think supply voltage would be band selective.   I’m using 
the power cable that came with the K3.

Ken WA8JXM



On Dec 15, 2014, at 11:11 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Matt is entirely correct.  The first thing to investigate in the event of a Hi 
Current message is the voltage (as indicated by the K3) level during transmit.

The way Elecraft transceivers control power, a low voltage means that higher 
current must be obtained to maintain the requested power output level.

Common causes are loose connections at the power supply, improperly assembled 
Anderson PowerPole connectors, and either long power supply cables or too small 
a wire gauge resulting in significant voltage drop when current is drawn.

This applies not only to the K3, but also to the KXPA100 and the K2/100.

73,

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Re: [Elecraft] FS: BL-1 balun

2014-12-15 Thread Phillip Zminda


The balun has been sold.

Thanks,

Phil N3ZP
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Re: [Elecraft] 3D Printed KX3 stand

2014-12-15 Thread Scott Simpson

While you're doing that, can you design a base for the KX3 Key?   :)

scott
sasimp...@gmail.com

On Sun, Dec 14, 2014 at 6:14 PM, Michael Walker 
wrote:
>
> Before I sit down and design on, has anyone already designed a 3D printed
> stand yet that they wouldn't mind sharing so I can print one?
>
> Mike va3mw
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 connections

2014-12-15 Thread Don Wilhelm


Rick,

The manual does *not* state that an RCA plug will be used on both ends 
of the Keyline cable.
Yes, the KXPA100 end is an RCA plug and that is clearly shown, but the 
other end must match the transceiver and since several types of 
connectors are used on transceivers for KEYOUT, the KXPA100 must be 
ambiguous about the connector on the transceiver end (i.e. the FT-817 
uses a DIN connector IIRC).


In the case of the KX3, a 2.5mm stereo plug is needed.  The ring contact 
is keyline output and the shield or common conductor of the cable 
connects to the shell.


It may be easier to just order the KXPACBL than cutting your cable and 
wiring in the 2.5mm stereo plug.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/15/2014 5:19 PM, Rick Dettinger wrote:

Guess what? I need assistance!
I am attempting to connect my KX3 to my new KXPA100, and am stumped with the 
Key Line Cable shown on page 8.
This is a doubled ended RCA plug type cable.  It references fig 5 on pg 18 for 
the basic installation, (no KXPACBL).
Paragraph 6, pg 19, seems to say that the Key Line Cable goes to ACC2 on the 
KX3.  Great, except the RCA plug does not  come close to fitting the 3.5 mm 
ACC2 jack.  What am I doing wrong?

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW



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Re: [Elecraft] Blown trap?

2014-12-15 Thread Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO

The manual on the MFJ website now specifies that the antenna can handle 
1500 watts SSB without compression, 750 watts CW, and 500 watts RTTY.


The manual that came with my antenna (purchased this March) simply said 
1500 watts CW. It also had the pre-MFJ address for Cushcraft. When I was 
considering what antenna to buy last December I downloaded the manual. 
That one was also the old version.


So apparently they only recently updated the manual.

Too bad -- I would have made a different choice if I'd known.


On 15 Dec 2014 20:49, Jim Brown wrote:

On Mon,12/15/2014 2:17 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO wrote:

I have heard of this happening with the R8, although it is rated at
1500W CW according to the manual. But I always thought the people it
happened to were operating at high SWRs. Maybe these are 1500 MFJ
watts, which, as everyone knows, are smaller than regular watts. Has
anyone had a similar experience?


Hi Vic,

It might be worth asking this question on the Tower Talk reflector.

73, Jim K9YC


--
73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] ARRL 10-m contest

2014-12-15 Thread Bert via Elecraft

I used my KX3 and KXPA100 for the 14 hours I was on. I recently had gone  
through the rx sideband nulling procedure and really enjoyed single-signal  
reception. The amp got pretty hot...it definitely needs external cooling of 
some  sort. I didn't take any PA temp readings, but the heatsink was  
uncomfortable to touch during long spells of "running" at 100W output.
 
The KX3 is an outstanding performer, even if QSK isn't as quiet as the K3  
with FW 5.01 :~)
 
73, Bert, N4CW
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] HI Current

2014-12-15 Thread Ken

Mike,

It’s not “voltage starved.”   I just went through and documented everything.  
Voltage measured by the K3 never gets below 13.1 volts.  The problem is ONLY on 
20m where “high current” displays at 65 watts.  And indeed it is comparatively 
high current, 23.5 amps.   On the other bands I can run 100w without the 
current getting that high.  

ALL TESTS DONE WITH A DUMMY LOAD  (or a live antenna and the internal antenna 
tuner or an external antenna tuner.)

I wonder if the other people experiencing the high current message are seeing 
it on other bands, or only 20m.

Ken WA8JXM


> On Dec 15, 2014, at 12:20 PM, Mike Harris  wrote:
> 
> It isn't, however, the load on the PA is band selective depending upon the 
> antenna match and this can effect the current.  12.1v is forcing the PA to 
> draw more current to deliver the power requested.  Any particular reason you 
> are running voltage starved?
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Mike VP8NO
> 
> On 15/12/2014 14:03, Ken wrote:
>> In my case, the K3’s internal volt meter is indicating 12.1v, well above the 
>> minimum specs.   I am pretty sure this only happens on 20m, never on other 
>> bands.  I wouldn’t think supply voltage would be band selective.   I’m using 
>> the power cable that came with the K3.
>> 
>> Ken WA8JXM
>> 
>> 
>>> On Dec 15, 2014, at 11:11 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Matt is entirely correct.  The first thing to investigate in the event of a 
>>> Hi Current message is the voltage (as indicated by the K3) level during 
>>> transmit.
>>> 
>>> The way Elecraft transceivers control power, a low voltage means that 
>>> higher current must be obtained to maintain the requested power output 
>>> level.
>>> 
>>> Common causes are loose connections at the power supply, improperly 
>>> assembled Anderson PowerPole connectors, and either long power supply 
>>> cables or too small a wire gauge resulting in significant voltage drop when 
>>> current is drawn.
>>> 
>>> This applies not only to the K3, but also to the KXPA100 and the K2/100.
>>> 
>>> 73,

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Re: [Elecraft] ARRL 10-m contest

2014-12-15 Thread Scott Simpson

I received my PX3 a week or so ago and it was impressive to see how the
contest looked on it:

200kHz of SSB: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pH9JX5fyLnc
100kHz of CW: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8S-7MYpTcI


scott
sasimp...@gmail.com

On Mon, Dec 15, 2014 at 12:34 PM, James Bennett  wrote:
>
> Kind of a similar situation here in Folsom. Christmas activities and other
> family “stuff” kept me away from the contest for all but a few hours. My
> goal, using the K3 @ 5 watts along with my P3, was to search & pounce for
> as many different states as possible - I’m trying to get WAS QRP. A total
> of 66 QSO’s in 34 states, plus 5W1SA (Samoa), EA8AV (Canary Islands), KP2Q
> (Virgin Islands), and WP4C (Puerto Rico). Heard lots more DX stations but
> didn’t attempt to work them, as states were my main goal. Although I did
> hear a station from Algeria (7X7?? - can’t remember the whole call) but he
> was also search & pounce so I didn’t get a chance to call him - arrghh.
> Not too bad for QRP and a stealthy doublet antenna strung through the
> redwood trees. Darn CC&R/HOA crud!
>
> If I worked you in the contest - many thanks and you’ll probably be
> getting a QSL and an SASE from me if you don’t participate in LoTW!
>
> 73, Jim / W6JHB
>
>
>
> > On   Monday, Dec 15, 2014, at  Monday, 7:58 AM, Wayne Burdick <
> n...@elecraft.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I only had an hour or so of contest time, but the band was in great
> shape and I worked everyone I called in both SSB and CW mode (35 QSOs in 19
> states).
> >
> > Just to make it more challenging, I kept power set to 5.0 watts, and
> used my 6-meter antenna exclusively (not a typo--yes, this was on 10
> meters). It's a pair of 6-meter hamsticks forming a dipole, supported by a
> push-up mast at about 20'. It's fed with LMR400 coax, then connected to the
> K3, which has a KAT3 ATU. The ATU can tune this antenna on 20-6 meters.
> While it certainly isn't very efficient on bands below 6 meters, it was
> good enough to have some fun in the contest.
> >
> > I was using the latest K3 firmware (rev. 5.01), which has excellent QSK
> audio characteristics as reported by those using this  field-test release.
> >
> > 73,
> > Wayne
> > N6KR
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] Blown trap?

2014-12-15 Thread David Cole

Hi Vic,

That is not surprising to me for reasons later discussed here...  When
something is rated at "1500 Watts, CW", that really means, 300 watts to
500 watts DC, or 100% duty cycle...  I wish manufactures would rate
things at 100% duty cycle.  I am pretty sure Elecraft does.

CW is taken to be about a 20% duty cycle, (for the most part), and as
such you can hammer something much harder when running CW than say when
you are running RTTY at 100% duty cycle...  That is how the 300 watt
figure came about, r=.20*1500, where r is the rating for power.  

I tend to de-rate everything 60% to 85% when I run RTTY, PSK, or any
mode that is even close to 100% duty cycle, more on the 75% side of
things.  

I would bet that 1000 watts RTTY for 10 minutes would blow another
trap...  I really dislike trap antennas for this reason, and these
reasons-- a bug gets into a trap, and you have a fire, water gets into a
trap, and you have a fire, a leaf falls on a trap, and you have a trap
fire, etc.  You get the picture...  Pretty much everything ends in "trap
fire".  

Next time try and get an antenna with no traps if possible.  I realize
you have the R8 now, and will keep it, but in the future, never forget
the lesson the MFJ antenna just taught you!  I learned my de-rating
lesson in a similar way several decades ago, running RTTY, I have NEVER
forgotten it.  If you have an antenna in a hard to get to location,
overbuild everything.

I had been considering an R8 up to now-- but the little experiment you
just performed, just convinced me to avoid that antenna.

-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
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On Mon, 2014-12-15 at 19:28 +0200, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO wrote:
> The good news is that I called MFJ, got a technician immediately, he 
> agreed that the 30M trap is the problem, and said he would send me a new 
> one under warranty. Elecraft-style service (so far).
> 
> The bad news is that despite the statement in the manual that it is 
> rated at "1500W CW," he told me not to exceed 800-1000 watts. Not 
> Elecraft-style design/documentation!
> 
> So if you have an R8 or similar antenna, be warned. I wasn't tuning up 
> or running RTTY -- I was calling CQ on 40M running about 1200W.
> 
> Other bands are unchanged but 30 and 40M are gone.
> 
> Thanks to everyone that responded.
> 
> On 15 Dec 2014 15:07, David Cole wrote:
> > Hi,
> >
> > No matter what happens, you will probably end up taking the antenna
> > down...  If nothing else to check to be sure it is fine...
> >
> > Grab an analyzer and connect it as close to the antenna base as
> > possible, and see if it is resonant on all bands...  Probably won't
> > anymore.  If you are lucky, it is some strange feedline thing, or a
> > connector issue, but having the antenna work on some bands, while not on
> > others reeks of blown trap.  I fear your diagnosis is in fact
> > correct...
> >
> > If you are going to "fix" it, and if it were me, I would get a trapless
> > antenna of some sort...  No traps blow.  I currently use a GAP
> > Challenger DX, (trapless), and have a band by band review of it at:
> > http://nk7z.net/review-of-the-challenger-dx-antenna-by-gap-antenna/
> >
> > The antenna takes power, and does not break, I have run 1000 Watts into
> > it on RTTY for 15 minutes with no issues.  I have had it up for at least
> > 7 years, and I think 10 or more years.  Never a problem beyond the three
> > radials coming off once...  It is a pretty good performer on 40, and 20.
> > I finally got one of the mono gaps, and it does a good job.  I do take
> > it down every few years and check things, and change out anything that
> > looks like it is going bad.
> 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] HI Current

2014-12-15 Thread Matt VK2RQ

Is that 12.1V reading during receive or transmit (the voltage will tend to sag 
when pulling higher currents during transmit)? I don't have a K3, but I do have 
a KXPA100, and I find that it will not develop a full 100W if I only feed it 
only 12V -- it works much better with a supply of 14V.

The impedance of the antenna will vary from band to band -- if the impedance 
happens to work out lower on 20m than on the other bands, then the extra 
current draw on that band together with the supply voltage at the low end of 
the range may be enough to trip the high current alarm in your PA.

73,
Matt VK2RQ

> On 16 Dec 2014, at 4:03 am, Ken  wrote:
> 
> In my case, the K3’s internal volt meter is indicating 12.1v, well above the 
> minimum specs.   I am pretty sure this only happens on 20m, never on other 
> bands.  I wouldn’t think supply voltage would be band selective.   I’m using 
> the power cable that came with the K3.
> 
> Ken WA8JXM
> 
> 
>> On Dec 15, 2014, at 11:11 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>> 
>> Matt is entirely correct.  The first thing to investigate in the event of a 
>> Hi Current message is the voltage (as indicated by the K3) level during 
>> transmit.
>> 
>> The way Elecraft transceivers control power, a low voltage means that higher 
>> current must be obtained to maintain the requested power output level.
>> 
>> Common causes are loose connections at the power supply, improperly 
>> assembled Anderson PowerPole connectors, and either long power supply cables 
>> or too small a wire gauge resulting in significant voltage drop when current 
>> is drawn.
>> 
>> This applies not only to the K3, but also to the KXPA100 and the K2/100.
>> 
>> 73,
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Blown trap?

2014-12-15 Thread Phil Wheeler

So how painful will it be to lower the antenna and 
repair it, Vic? And what is the ETA for the trap 
to arrive at your QTH?


Phil W7OX

On 12/15/14 9:28 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO wrote:
The good news is that I called MFJ, got a 
technician immediately, he agreed that the 30M 
trap is the problem, and said he would send me a 
new one under warranty. Elecraft-style service 
(so far).


The bad news is that despite the statement in 
the manual that it is rated at "1500W CW," he 
told me not to exceed 800-1000 watts. Not 
Elecraft-style design/documentation!


So if you have an R8 or similar antenna, be 
warned. I wasn't tuning up or running RTTY -- I 
was calling CQ on 40M running about 1200W.


Other bands are unchanged but 30 and 40M are gone.

Thanks to everyone that responded.

On 15 Dec 2014 15:07, David Cole wrote:

Hi,

No matter what happens, you will probably end 
up taking the antenna
down...  If nothing else to check to be sure it 
is fine...


Grab an analyzer and connect it as close to the 
antenna base as
possible, and see if it is resonant on all 
bands...  Probably won't
anymore.  If you are lucky, it is some strange 
feedline thing, or a
connector issue, but having the antenna work on 
some bands, while not on
others reeks of blown trap.  I fear your 
diagnosis is in fact

correct...

If you are going to "fix" it, and if it were 
me, I would get a trapless
antenna of some sort...  No traps blow.  I 
currently use a GAP
Challenger DX, (trapless), and have a band by 
band review of it at:
http://nk7z.net/review-of-the-challenger-dx-antenna-by-gap-antenna/ 



The antenna takes power, and does not break, I 
have run 1000 Watts into
it on RTTY for 15 minutes with no issues.  I 
have had it up for at least
7 years, and I think 10 or more years.  Never a 
problem beyond the three
radials coming off once...  It is a pretty good 
performer on 40, and 20.
I finally got one of the mono gaps, and it does 
a good job.  I do take
it down every few years and check things, and 
change out anything that

looks like it is going bad.





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Re: [Elecraft] Blown trap?

2014-12-15 Thread Bill NY9H

maybe the brilliant designer thought he could build the 30 meter trap 
to the power level allowed on 30 meters   ;)   ?



   ps




At 01:49 PM 12/15/2014, Jim Brown wrote:

On Mon,12/15/2014 2:17 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO wrote:
I have heard of this happening with the R8, although it is rated at 
1500W CW according to the manual. But I always thought the people 
it happened to were operating at high SWRs. Maybe these are 1500 
MFJ watts, which, as everyone knows, are smaller than regular 
watts. Has anyone had a similar experience?


Hi Vic,

It might be worth asking this question on the Tower Talk reflector.

73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] KXPA100 connections

2014-12-15 Thread Rick Dettinger

Guess what? I need assistance!
I am attempting to connect my KX3 to my new KXPA100, and am stumped with the 
Key Line Cable shown on page 8.
This is a doubled ended RCA plug type cable.  It references fig 5 on pg 18 for 
the basic installation, (no KXPACBL).
Paragraph 6, pg 19, seems to say that the Key Line Cable goes to ACC2 on the 
KX3.  Great, except the RCA plug does not  come close to fitting the 3.5 mm 
ACC2 jack.  What am I doing wrong? 

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW 

 
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Re: [Elecraft] Blown trap?

2014-12-15 Thread Jim Brown


On Mon,12/15/2014 2:17 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO wrote:
I have heard of this happening with the R8, although it is rated at 
1500W CW according to the manual. But I always thought the people it 
happened to were operating at high SWRs. Maybe these are 1500 MFJ 
watts, which, as everyone knows, are smaller than regular watts. Has 
anyone had a similar experience?


Hi Vic,

It might be worth asking this question on the Tower Talk reflector.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] ARRL 10-m contest

2014-12-15 Thread James Bennett

Kind of a similar situation here in Folsom. Christmas activities and other 
family “stuff” kept me away from the contest for all but a few hours. My goal, 
using the K3 @ 5 watts along with my P3, was to search & pounce for as many 
different states as possible - I’m trying to get WAS QRP. A total of 66 QSO’s 
in 34 states, plus 5W1SA (Samoa), EA8AV (Canary Islands), KP2Q (Virgin 
Islands), and WP4C (Puerto Rico). Heard lots more DX stations but didn’t 
attempt to work them, as states were my main goal. Although I did hear a 
station from Algeria (7X7?? - can’t remember the whole call) but he was also 
search & pounce so I didn’t get a chance to call him - arrghh. Not too bad 
for QRP and a stealthy doublet antenna strung through the redwood trees. Darn 
CC&R/HOA crud!

If I worked you in the contest - many thanks and you’ll probably be getting a 
QSL and an SASE from me if you don’t participate in LoTW!

73, Jim / W6JHB

> On   Monday, Dec 15, 2014, at  Monday, 7:58 AM, Wayne Burdick 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I only had an hour or so of contest time, but the band was in great shape and 
> I worked everyone I called in both SSB and CW mode (35 QSOs in 19 states).
> 
> Just to make it more challenging, I kept power set to 5.0 watts, and used my 
> 6-meter antenna exclusively (not a typo--yes, this was on 10 meters). It's a 
> pair of 6-meter hamsticks forming a dipole, supported by a push-up mast at 
> about 20'. It's fed with LMR400 coax, then connected to the K3, which has a 
> KAT3 ATU. The ATU can tune this antenna on 20-6 meters. While it certainly 
> isn't very efficient on bands below 6 meters, it was good enough to have some 
> fun in the contest.
> 
> I was using the latest K3 firmware (rev. 5.01), which has excellent QSK audio 
> characteristics as reported by those using this  field-test release.
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Blown trap?

2014-12-15 Thread Phil Wheeler


MFJ has a technician? Pretty amazing, Vic :-)

Phil W7OX

On 12/15/14 9:28 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO wrote:
The good news is that I called MFJ, got a 
technician immediately, he agreed that the 30M 
trap is the problem, and said he would send me a 
new one under warranty. Elecraft-style service 
(so far).


The bad news is that despite the statement in 
the manual that it is rated at "1500W CW," he 
told me not to exceed 800-1000 watts. Not 
Elecraft-style design/documentation!


So if you have an R8 or similar antenna, be 
warned. I wasn't tuning up or running RTTY -- I 
was calling CQ on 40M running about 1200W.


Other bands are unchanged but 30 and 40M are gone.

Thanks to everyone that responded.

On 15 Dec 2014 15:07, David Cole wrote:

Hi,

No matter what happens, you will probably end 
up taking the antenna
down...  If nothing else to check to be sure it 
is fine...


Grab an analyzer and connect it as close to the 
antenna base as
possible, and see if it is resonant on all 
bands...  Probably won't
anymore.  If you are lucky, it is some strange 
feedline thing, or a
connector issue, but having the antenna work on 
some bands, while not on
others reeks of blown trap.  I fear your 
diagnosis is in fact

correct...

If you are going to "fix" it, and if it were 
me, I would get a trapless
antenna of some sort...  No traps blow.  I 
currently use a GAP
Challenger DX, (trapless), and have a band by 
band review of it at:
http://nk7z.net/review-of-the-challenger-dx-antenna-by-gap-antenna/ 



The antenna takes power, and does not break, I 
have run 1000 Watts into
it on RTTY for 15 minutes with no issues.  I 
have had it up for at least
7 years, and I think 10 or more years.  Never a 
problem beyond the three
radials coming off once...  It is a pretty good 
performer on 40, and 20.
I finally got one of the mono gaps, and it does 
a good job.  I do take
it down every few years and check things, and 
change out anything that

looks like it is going bad.





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Re: [Elecraft] Blown trap?

2014-12-15 Thread Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO

The good news is that I called MFJ, got a technician immediately, he 
agreed that the 30M trap is the problem, and said he would send me a new 
one under warranty. Elecraft-style service (so far).


The bad news is that despite the statement in the manual that it is 
rated at "1500W CW," he told me not to exceed 800-1000 watts. Not 
Elecraft-style design/documentation!


So if you have an R8 or similar antenna, be warned. I wasn't tuning up 
or running RTTY -- I was calling CQ on 40M running about 1200W.


Other bands are unchanged but 30 and 40M are gone.

Thanks to everyone that responded.

On 15 Dec 2014 15:07, David Cole wrote:

Hi,

No matter what happens, you will probably end up taking the antenna
down...  If nothing else to check to be sure it is fine...

Grab an analyzer and connect it as close to the antenna base as
possible, and see if it is resonant on all bands...  Probably won't
anymore.  If you are lucky, it is some strange feedline thing, or a
connector issue, but having the antenna work on some bands, while not on
others reeks of blown trap.  I fear your diagnosis is in fact
correct...

If you are going to "fix" it, and if it were me, I would get a trapless
antenna of some sort...  No traps blow.  I currently use a GAP
Challenger DX, (trapless), and have a band by band review of it at:
http://nk7z.net/review-of-the-challenger-dx-antenna-by-gap-antenna/

The antenna takes power, and does not break, I have run 1000 Watts into
it on RTTY for 15 minutes with no issues.  I have had it up for at least
7 years, and I think 10 or more years.  Never a problem beyond the three
radials coming off once...  It is a pretty good performer on 40, and 20.
I finally got one of the mono gaps, and it does a good job.  I do take
it down every few years and check things, and change out anything that
looks like it is going bad.



--
73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] ARRL 10-m contest

2014-12-15 Thread Phil Anderson


Hey Wayne, George and all too,

Did about the same. Ordered the K3 five weeks ago, got it in about ten 
days, built and aligned in ten hours, got on the 10-meter  CW contest 
and made 60 contacts with 25% DX, using my K3 and a SteppIR vertical 
with the antenna set at 3/4-wavelength for 10-meters. Great Combo. What 
fun! Wish I'd had the full weekend but still fun for a short run.


Uncle Phil, W0XI, Lawrence KS







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Re: [Elecraft] HI Current

2014-12-15 Thread Ken

In my case, the K3’s internal volt meter is indicating 12.1v, well above the 
minimum specs.   I am pretty sure this only happens on 20m, never on other 
bands.  I wouldn’t think supply voltage would be band selective.   I’m using 
the power cable that came with the K3.

Ken WA8JXM


> On Dec 15, 2014, at 11:11 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Matt is entirely correct.  The first thing to investigate in the event of a 
> Hi Current message is the voltage (as indicated by the K3) level during 
> transmit.
> 
> The way Elecraft transceivers control power, a low voltage means that higher 
> current must be obtained to maintain the requested power output level.
> 
> Common causes are loose connections at the power supply, improperly assembled 
> Anderson PowerPole connectors, and either long power supply cables or too 
> small a wire gauge resulting in significant voltage drop when current is 
> drawn.
> 
> This applies not only to the K3, but also to the KXPA100 and the K2/100.
> 
> 73,

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Re: [Elecraft] ARRL 10-m contest

2014-12-15 Thread George Winship, NC5G

Hi Wayne and all,

I also didn't have much time for the contest either,but here is what I did. 

I have an old mobile hustler set up mounted on an old truck brake rotor that
I use with my KX3 in the house. Didn't have a 10 meter coil, so took the
hustler off and screwed a 102 inch whip on the brake rotor. It is a good
match on 10. I also made 35 contacts, 12 countries and the rest stateside
and Canada. There were 15 
SSB and 20 CW contacts with Australia being the longest distance. Lots of
fun. Guess I cheated though, as I was running 10 watts. HI!

73, George NC5G 



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View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/ARRL-10-m-contest-tp7595995p7596001.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] FS: BL-1 Balun

2014-12-15 Thread Phillip Zminda

For Sale: Elecraft BL-1 150 Watt Balun. Wired as 4:1. Can be re-wired for 1:1. 
Includes dual female BNC connector. Great to use with built-in tuners. No 
longer using. Price $25.00 shipped CONUS. PayPaL OK. Contact off-list.

phil-z at comcast dot net

Phil N3ZP
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Re: [Elecraft] HI Current

2014-12-15 Thread Don Wilhelm


Bruce,

I would expect a Hi REFL message rather than Hi Cur if SWR was the problem.
Check your power supply connections.  If you have bolts and nuts on the 
power supply output terminals, if the bolts turn (even slightly) when 
you tighten the nuts, you will have to dig inside the power supply to 
fully tighten the bolts to the lugs on the inside.


With Elecraft gear, a low power supply voltage will result in a higher 
current draw from the power supply.  Elecraft gear seeks to maintain the 
requested power output, and a low supply voltage means that the current 
must increase to maintain the power level.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/14/2014 4:18 PM, Bruce Chadbourne wrote:

To the list:

I occasionally get the Hi Current warning on my K3. I notice it cuts my
power back about 10% from 100w.  My initial assumption is that my SWR is
too high - but the SWR meter is easily less than 2.0  I run the ATU which
confirms SWR about 1.2 or so.
So what am I missing - something bad in my transmission line?



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Re: [Elecraft] Blown trap?

2014-12-15 Thread David Cole

Hi,

No matter what happens, you will probably end up taking the antenna
down...  If nothing else to check to be sure it is fine...

Grab an analyzer and connect it as close to the antenna base as
possible, and see if it is resonant on all bands...  Probably won't
anymore.  If you are lucky, it is some strange feedline thing, or a
connector issue, but having the antenna work on some bands, while not on
others reeks of blown trap.  I fear your diagnosis is in fact
correct...  

If you are going to "fix" it, and if it were me, I would get a trapless
antenna of some sort...  No traps blow.  I currently use a GAP
Challenger DX, (trapless), and have a band by band review of it at:
http://nk7z.net/review-of-the-challenger-dx-antenna-by-gap-antenna/

The antenna takes power, and does not break, I have run 1000 Watts into
it on RTTY for 15 minutes with no issues.  I have had it up for at least
7 years, and I think 10 or more years.  Never a problem beyond the three
radials coming off once...  It is a pretty good performer on 40, and 20.
I finally got one of the mono gaps, and it does a good job.  I do take
it down every few years and check things, and change out anything that
looks like it is going bad.

-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info

On Mon, 2014-12-15 at 12:17 +0200, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO wrote:
> Here is my somewhat off-topic question for today:
> 
> I have an R8 vertical, which does its bandswitching with a combination 
> of stubs and traps. The other day I was transmitting CW on 40M with 
> about 1200 watts and a normal SWR of less than 1.5:1. Suddenly the SWR 
> went sky-high. Now the antenna doesn't work on 7 and 10 MHz, although it 
> is fine on the higher bands. It looks to me like I blew the 30M trap. So:
> 
> 1. Do you folks think this is a correct diagnosis? I will have to take 
> the antenna down to be sure, and that won't be fun since it is on top of 
> a 10-story building.
> 
> 2. I have heard of this happening with the R8, although it is rated at 
> 1500W CW according to the manual. But I always thought the people it 
> happened to were operating at high SWRs. Maybe these are 1500 MFJ watts, 
> which, as everyone knows, are smaller than regular watts. Has anyone had 
> a similar experience?
> 
> 3. Should I have bought a KPA500 which wouldn't stress the antenna as 
> much? :-)

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Re: [Elecraft] HI Current

2014-12-15 Thread Don Wilhelm

Matt is entirely correct.  The first thing to investigate in the event 
of a Hi Current message is the voltage (as indicated by the K3) level 
during transmit.


The way Elecraft transceivers control power, a low voltage means that 
higher current must be obtained to maintain the requested power output 
level.


Common causes are loose connections at the power supply, improperly 
assembled Anderson PowerPole connectors, and either long power supply 
cables or too small a wire gauge resulting in significant voltage drop 
when current is drawn.


This applies not only to the K3, but also to the KXPA100 and the K2/100.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/15/2014 8:52 AM, Eric Ross wrote:

I see the same thing, but only on 10m.  I just assumed (possibly erroneously) 
the power indication was not accurate and used the indicated 100w.  I don't 
have an external wattmeter to validate.  My antenna is tuned for 20m so tuning 
it is not that hard on 10m.

Eric
wb7sde

On December 14, 2014 9:23:15 PM PST, Matt VK2RQ  wrote:

Maybe there is not enough voltage at the power input to the radio —
possibly due to high resistance at your power connections or in your
fuse holders?

73, Matt VK2RQ





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[Elecraft] Looking for unbuilt K2

2014-12-15 Thread Mike

Getting board out this way I'm looking for an unbuilt K2? 
Mike 
VE3WDM 


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[Elecraft] ARRL 10-m contest

2014-12-15 Thread Wayne Burdick

Hi all,

I only had an hour or so of contest time, but the band was in great shape and I 
worked everyone I called in both SSB and CW mode (35 QSOs in 19 states).

Just to make it more challenging, I kept power set to 5.0 watts, and used my 
6-meter antenna exclusively (not a typo--yes, this was on 10 meters). It's a 
pair of 6-meter hamsticks forming a dipole, supported by a push-up mast at 
about 20'. It's fed with LMR400 coax, then connected to the K3, which has a 
KAT3 ATU. The ATU can tune this antenna on 20-6 meters. While it certainly 
isn't very efficient on bands below 6 meters, it was good enough to have some 
fun in the contest.

I was using the latest K3 firmware (rev. 5.01), which has excellent QSK audio 
characteristics as reported by those using this  field-test release.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] HI Current

2014-12-15 Thread Eric Ross

I see the same thing, but only on 10m.  I just assumed (possibly erroneously) 
the power indication was not accurate and used the indicated 100w.  I don't 
have an external wattmeter to validate.  My antenna is tuned for 20m so tuning 
it is not that hard on 10m.

Eric
wb7sde

On December 14, 2014 9:23:15 PM PST, Matt VK2RQ  wrote:
>Maybe there is not enough voltage at the power input to the radio —
>possibly due to high resistance at your power connections or in your
>fuse holders? 
>
>73, Matt VK2RQ
>
>
>> On 15 Dec 2014, at 8:18 am, Bruce Chadbourne
> wrote:
>> 
>> To the list:
>> 
>> I occasionally get the Hi Current warning on my K3. I notice it cuts
>my
>> power back about 10% from 100w.  My initial assumption is that my SWR
>is
>> too high - but the SWR meter is easily less than 2.0  I run the ATU
>which
>> confirms SWR about 1.2 or so.
>> So what am I missing - something bad in my transmission line?
>> 
>> -- 
>> Bruce KE1CY
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>
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Re: [Elecraft] XV144 - power out with no drive

2014-12-15 Thread Don Wilhelm


David,

To answer your question, no it has not been incorporated on the XV series.

Some transverters are just fine without it, but some others show that 
problem behavior.
I usually add it to any XV transverter that I service, and I would 
encourage any owner to do the same.  It simply filters any noise off 
that signal line whose only component should be DC.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/15/2014 4:58 AM, David G4DMP wrote:

Magic! I have just read your advice to Stewart GM4AFF and recognised a
phenomenon I have been getting with my XV144 for years. I had assumed
that the flashing LEDs were due to my fault in overdriving.

I have just added a 0.1 across E & C of Q7 and that has cured the
problem.  I must now do the same with my XV70.

Am I to assume that this mod has now been incorporated in new XV---
kits?

I am ever thankful to you, Don, for your valuable contribution to the
reflector.

73 de David G4DMP

In a recent message, Don Wilhelm  writes

There are some XVnnn transverters that falsely detect an overload
condition.  That is due to noise on the COR detection line.  An easy
cure for that is to remove the front panel metalwork and solder a 0.1uf
capacitor between the collector and emitter of Front Panel Q7.  It can
easily be added to the solder side of Q7 without removing the front
panel board.


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Re: [Elecraft] LDMOS for QRO

2014-12-15 Thread David Woolley

Neither morse (loosely called CW), nor JT65, are pure sine waves, so 
they will have IMD, although it may well be less than the key clicks (as 
conventionally understood for morse, and because of the abrupt frequency 
changes in JT65).  True CW cannot convey any more information than its 
existence.


Measured in a 1Hz bandwidth, the JT65 IMD would be very low, and 
measured in the total bandwidth, it would be concentrated, in time, 
around signalling unit boundaries.  Similarly for the "clicks".


As to the mobile powers, I would have thought that it would be unsafe to 
operate at some of the power levels mentioned, both in terms of the risk 
to other people (e.g. someone in an open, or soft, top vehicle, or even 
pedestrians in slow moving traffic), and the risk of causing an accident 
as as result of EMC failures in passing vehicles.


--
David Woolley
Owner K2 06123


On 14/12/14 09:10, Edward R Cole wrote:


You are correct that the specs are for pulse and one can run CW/JT65 at
this level since there is no IMD produced by a single sine wave.  So
combining two running 750w each gets you 1500w in linear operation with
2400w dissipation.

1500w mobile!!!  Are you serious?  I'd guess 200-250w would be adequate
for mobile.  But I do not do serious HF'ing.



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA 1000 1500

2014-12-15 Thread Gerry leary

I have one of those STC amplifiers and it works very well. I have never looked 
at harmonics distortion or other factors in it but it regularly used to give me 
about 12 GB signal increase with my ICOM 7000. I don't use it for the KP a 100 
yet with my KX3, because I have had too much fun at the queue RP.level. I am 
sorry for the strange sounding sentences, I am using iPhone with Siri to create 
this message.

Sent from my iPhone this time 

> On Dec 13, 2014, at 2:44 PM, Wes (N7WS)  wrote:
> 
> A couple of things.
> 
> The K1N, Navassa DXpedition, (according to QST's "How's DX" will use SGC-500 
> amps, despite having Elecraft as a sponsor.  (I'm not sure SGC amps are 
> available, but that's another story).
> 
> Amps using 3-500s are essentially instant-on.
> 
> Just for the record, I retired an L-4B and replaced it with a KPA500/KAT500.  
> I do miss the 3 dB, but the "no tune" is nice, although I'm not overjoyed 
> with the tuner and when planned antenna changes are complete, may remove it.
> 
> Wes  N7WS
> 
>> On 12/13/2014 2:03 PM, r miles wrote:
>> 
>> If you're a serious contester maybe you want the extra DBs. But for DXers, 
>> with any skill you can wrk. what's out there with the K line.
>> If a bigger amp cabinet was needed. A much larger & heavier one they 
>> probably wouldn't be going on DXpeditions as they are now. Most recent 
>> DXpeditions are exclusively K3s and/or KPAs. I have an average DXer stn. & 
>> I've not yet missed anything. I know the rare call & locations help them but 
>> I've not been where I couldn't copy the DX.
>> I've had  my K line nearly 3 yr.s and I personally wouldn't go back to a 
>> tube amp. Can't tell you how much rare DX I've seen spotted &  been there in 
>> 15 seconds & wrkd it. I wouldn't want to sit there waiting a minute or two 
>> til the warm up light goes out on a tube amp. Be 20 or 30 more calling by 
>> then. Probably K line guys
>> 
>> Just my opinion. K9IL
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] HI Current

2014-12-15 Thread KD7YZ Bob

KD7YZ tapped out:


I see my email-er somehow sent and resent the reply. no idea why,
however, I apologize for the hassle.



-- 
73
KD7YZ Bob

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Re: [Elecraft] XV144 - power out with no drive

2014-12-15 Thread Dave Sergeant

Not in my XV50 built a couple of months ago Note that there is 
already a 0.01uF across the source of the CO line, C71 on the RF board 
(the signal is confusingly called OD on that board).

I did see the flashing lights once while I was aligning it but have not 
used the transverter in vengeance yet so time will tell whether I have 
this issue.

73 Dave G3YMC

On 15 Dec 2014 at 9:58, David G4DMP wrote:

> Magic! I have just read your advice to Stewart GM4AFF and recognised a
> phenomenon I have been getting with my XV144 for years. I had assumed
> that the flashing LEDs were due to my fault in overdriving.
> 
> I have just added a 0.1 across E & C of Q7 and that has cured the
> problem.  I must now do the same with my XV70.
> 
> Am I to assume that this mod has now been incorporated in new XV---
> kits?
> 


http://davesergeant.com

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[Elecraft] Blown trap?

2014-12-15 Thread Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO


Here is my somewhat off-topic question for today:

I have an R8 vertical, which does its bandswitching with a combination 
of stubs and traps. The other day I was transmitting CW on 40M with 
about 1200 watts and a normal SWR of less than 1.5:1. Suddenly the SWR 
went sky-high. Now the antenna doesn't work on 7 and 10 MHz, although it 
is fine on the higher bands. It looks to me like I blew the 30M trap. So:


1. Do you folks think this is a correct diagnosis? I will have to take 
the antenna down to be sure, and that won't be fun since it is on top of 
a 10-story building.


2. I have heard of this happening with the R8, although it is rated at 
1500W CW according to the manual. But I always thought the people it 
happened to were operating at high SWRs. Maybe these are 1500 MFJ watts, 
which, as everyone knows, are smaller than regular watts. Has anyone had 
a similar experience?


3. Should I have bought a KPA500 which wouldn't stress the antenna as 
much? :-)

--
73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] KAF2 faulty

2014-12-15 Thread Dave Sergeant

And to confirm that replacing U4 78L06 got the KAF2 working again. A 
mystery why it failed though...

73 Dave G3YMC

On 8 Dec 2014 at 10:56, Dave Sergeant wrote:

> Further investigation shows the output of U4 78L06 regulator to be down
> to 1V. So it appears the 78L06 has failed and once I have found one I
> will change it.
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> 
> 73 Dave G3YMC
> 
> On 6 Dec 2014 at 15:57, Dave Sergeant wrote:
> 
> > My KAF2 has been working fine in my K2 for some years, not that I
> > actually use it that much. Today I came into the shack to find no
> > audio coming out of the K2 and when I tried to change the AFIL
> > settings it said 'not installed'. I cannot change the RTC menu
> > settings either.
> > 
> > I have moved S1 on the KAF2 to bypass it and all is working fine so it
> > seems there is a fault on the KAF2. The manual suggests this is a
> > fault with the microcontroller, which of course it may well be, but
> > are there any other known causes? I did think of the backup battery
> > but not sure if this would cause issues outside the RTC, it measures
> > just over 3V so a bit down.
> > 
> 


http://davesergeant.com

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Re: [Elecraft] XV144 - power out with no drive

2014-12-15 Thread David G4DMP

Magic! I have just read your advice to Stewart GM4AFF and recognised a
phenomenon I have been getting with my XV144 for years. I had assumed
that the flashing LEDs were due to my fault in overdriving.

I have just added a 0.1 across E & C of Q7 and that has cured the
problem.  I must now do the same with my XV70.

Am I to assume that this mod has now been incorporated in new XV---
kits?

I am ever thankful to you, Don, for your valuable contribution to the
reflector.

73 de David G4DMP

In a recent message, Don Wilhelm  writes
>There are some XVnnn transverters that falsely detect an overload
>condition.  That is due to noise on the COR detection line.  An easy
>cure for that is to remove the front panel metalwork and solder a 0.1uf
>capacitor between the collector and emitter of Front Panel Q7.  It can
>easily be added to the solder side of Q7 without removing the front
>panel board.

-- 
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
 | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds.   |
 | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk |
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +

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Re: [Elecraft] LDMOS for QRO

2014-12-15 Thread Edward R Cole

OK. My reason for mentioning these amps was to answer some of the 
negative points being made in regard to a fictitious KPA1500.  These 
days one does not have to combine a lot of lower power FETs to reach 
QRO.  I gave you a link to the device which is made by 
Freescale.  There are comparable devices made by NXP.


I replied to the argument that one can not run them linear at 
1200w.  To quote myself: "So combining two running 750w each gets you 
1500w in linear operation with 2400w dissipation."  Most RF 
transistors will not be linear if driven into saturation so one backs 
off on the drive and resultant output to improve linearity.


Heat dissipation is taken care of by using copper heat spreaders 
under the transistors coming from all these suppliers unless you buy 
the LDMOS directly (W6PQL uses a 3x5x1/2 inch copper spreader).  I 
would suggest either the amp kits or buying assembled amp pallets to 
build with.


Price: two LDMOS would run roughly $500.  I new 8877 from RFParts is 
$1450 (Eimac) or $665 (Taylor).  Of course you can purchase a used 
8877 in the $350-450 range.  The HVPS will run about $500 and you 
probably would have another $400 in materials to complete a basic HF 
amp with manual tuning (total= $2350 (Eimac) to $1250 (used 8877)).


W6PQL is offering an assembled single LDMOS amp for $825 so two would 
run $1650 and probably another $400 to make a complete 1500w SSB HF 
amp. Surplus HP Blade 50v -50A PS run $30-50 on e-bay.  To run two 
LDMOS you just have two 50vv PS supplying each separately.  Total= $2150.


If you build your own you can save a little off this total - W6PQL 
kit is $563 which includes the NXP BLF-188XR. 
http://www.w6pql.com/parts_i_can_provide.htm  est. total 
2x$563+$400+$100 = $1625


No point belaboring this as there are going to be some amps showing 
up this coming year using these LDMOS devices.


-
From: Kevin Stover 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] LDMOS for QRO
Message-ID: <548dafbd.7000...@mediacombb.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

W6PQL has designed and built a 1KW SSPA for 1.8-54MHz using an LDMOS
device. Freescale I think.
he has also designed a pretty stout Low Pass filter designed for 1.5KW
1.8-54 MHz.
He can get 1.2KW out of it at saturation with 2-3 W drive.
A pair of these devices @ 750W could do 1500W all day any mode. but then
the power supply becomes the limiting factor.. 50V at 70amps?

http://www.w6pql.com/1_kw_sspa_for_1_8-54_mhz.htm


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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