Re: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator - Update

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

It's Generac "Synergy" not syntergy
And yes, they just came out with them as their own version of the inverter
type generator.
I've only seen it listed on a few of their dealers so far.

There's nothing magic about wiring a transfer switch. In the larger systems
of about 7 - 8 kW and higher, think of it as a remote sub-panel that might
for example, be in a garage and fed out of your main house panel through an
appropriate sized breaker, but with a two way switch for the Line In that
selects either the line from the main panel or, the generator.
This applies whether it is manually operated or fully automatic.
All the control switching logic comes from the manufacturers circuitry.

The whole idea is to NEVER permit your generator output finding its way out
to your main feeders. (You could electrocute a Lineman working on what he
thinks is a dead line.  That pole-pig outside works both ways.  You apply
240 V on your side and there is 7½ or higher kV on that deadly wire!)
Unless there is a massive failure in the switch itself, this can never
happen.  Most of the ones I've seen are WAY overrated for just that sort of
safety margin.  My panel came with a 15 kW generator, but has a 200 Amp
transfer switch.  The commercial power input is completely dis-connected
from the generator much the same way as a DPDT switch's outer contacts never
touch.

In some of the smaller transfer panels, each house circuit has its own two
way switch such that you have to manually switch it from mains to generator
and back when the juice comes back on.  This works fine too and isolates the
generator output.

73, Charlie k3ICH

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Doug Hensley
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2017 1:44 PM
To: Elecraft List 
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator - Update

Someone on the list suggested we post a summary of private responses to us
as an alternative, I'm guessing, to members not knowing what was said.   In
my case, the results don't lend themselves to a simple summary so I am
sending this as a fair response to what I learned:


  1.   I'm quite surprised by the many respondents with homes over 2500 sq
feet running satisfactorily off generators under 10 KW with several as low
as 5 & 5.5 KW.   One 3300 sq ft home was happy on 7 KW.  Generator size
ranged as you would expect from the portable Honda to the stationary GENERAC
& KOHLER units.  Natural gas as a fuel choice got the most recommendations.
The overall lesson seems to be to "know your load" and buy what you need,
not what you want.

  2.I'm was pleased to hear K3, K3S & KX3 owners consistently reporting
whatever hash their units were producing had no ill effects on their
Elecraft radios during the period their generator was running.  One engineer
measured his no frills stationary generator as having about 4% THD.   Most
reported only the audible noise from their generator was noticeable while it
was running (I suppose like a lawn mower doing the lawn outside).
  3.No one reported having a GENERAC Syntergy unit.
  4.The 1800 RPM Kohler was recommended the most over the more prevalent
& cheaper 3600 RPM units.
  5.Finally, most people were in favor of an automatic transfer switch
for the whole house with installation done by a proper electrician.


Sorry I can't give any more specifics.  The reports of Elecraft working
nicely with or without the generator running was refreshing.  Thanks to all
who responded.


Doug W5JV






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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I'd have a fully automatic generator in a second IF we had propane or natural 
gas available.
However, the addition of suitable tanks and piping, which MUST be installed 
"professionally", would be well over the cost of the generator itself.

All of you with non-invertor conventional 3600 RPM generators should take a 
look at the actual waveform coming out of them.
My older Honda ES-6500 would run anything I connected to it, but my computer 
UPS did NOT like it.  The waveform was basically 60 Hz but there was noticeable 
distortion and glitches.

The inverters are certainly more complicated with potentially more things to 
fail, BUT the waveform out of My Honda EU-7000 is audio signal generator clean.

73, Charlie k3ICH






On 9/8/2017 8:46 AM, Chip Stratton wrote:
> I have a Kohler 8 kw unit on a whole house automatic transfer switch 
> that runs on propane, No A/C so 8 kW supplies the whole house just 
> fine. I've measured its output at 4% THD using a Fluke power quality 
> meter with or without load. Seems to fit the ticket.
>
> Chip
> AE5KA
>


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

This new variety of Generac's are obviously all the new "Inverter" type
generators, because in order for a non-invertor type to make 60 Hz AC power,
it HAS to run at some multiple of 60Hz, typically 3600 RPM constant speed.

The ONLY way the engine speed can vary is to utilize an SS circuit to
generate the required 60 HZ sine wave.

I currently have a Honda EU7000 set up in an "almost" automatic running
mode.  I have to manually start the generator and hit a push-button which
energizes a big transfer switch so certain circuits in the house go from
mains to generator.
When commercial power is restored for at least a continuous minute, the
system reverts back to mains power.  I then have to manually shut off the
generator. 

Glad to see Generac moving to this type.  It should make your UPS systems
much happier.

73, Charlie k3ICH''



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mark Bayern
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2017 5:16 PM
To: Mel Farrer 
Cc: Elecraft List ; Doug Hensley

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator

I found that Generac has a series of egens they call the 'Synergy'
line. These are variable speed generators. The only variable speed
generators I'm familiar rectify the alternator's output then use PWM to
generate the 60hz 115VAC waveform.

The Honda small portable 1KW and 2KW gens use this system.

Mark


On Thu, Sep 7, 2017 at 3:54 PM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft
 wrote:
> I tried to get more information on the "syntergy" process.  I know of no
electrical design of the alternator that allow a non distorted change in
frequency of the output,  However a method of load sensing and a planetary
transmission with speed selection could do the job of letting the motor run
slower while the alternator is at constant speed.  The 5-12 minute load
sensing could be the process of the speed selection so that no load is
affected.  Hummm interesting.
> I have a 35 KW diesel Generac and never looked back.  It uses the old
governor method of adjusting engineer fuel/RPM to load. Less load less fuel
used.  OH well.
> Mel, K6KBE
>
>   From: Doug Hensley 
>  To: Elecraft List 
>  Sent: Thursday, September 7, 2017 1:18 PM
>  Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator
>
> If you want to respond to this, please respond privately to me and NOT the
list.
>
>
> I am going through the process of choosing a whole house home generator
and what caught my ey in the process was a new generator by GENERAC called
"Syntergy" which uses a new three-vein generator and produces a relatively
clean sine wave.  So clean, GENERAC claims less than 1% harmonic distortion,
a level virtually undetectable to the user.
>
>
> Has anyone studied this unit and made any conclusions about it?  Their
standard unit produces a minimum of 10% harmonic distortion and they warn
some communications services might become unuseable.
>
>
> Again, respond to me privately:  <<  w5jv @ hotmail.com  >>.
>
>
> Thank you,
>
>
> Doug W5JV
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Items you think you can depend on

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I've bought some little Chicom plug-in Line Voltage monitors that are rated
to run from 80 to 300 VAC for about $5 each through eBay, free shipping/no
tax.
They are completely self-contained with the two prong standard US blade plug
built-in.
The background illumination is blue LED and they're about 1/3 the size of a
pack of Lucky's.
The only problem I've found with them is that after about 5 years of 24/7
use, the background illumination isn't as bright as a new one, but still
perfectly readable.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike Rhodes
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2017 2:12 PM
To: Elecraft 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Items you think you can depend on

So what are people using to monitor their 120/240 mains? Just curious but
wondering if this is something I should be doing.

Mike / W8DN

On 9/4/2017 1:32 PM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:
> Funny you posted this.
> I monitor BOTH sides of the 110/220 VAC service and have alarms set to
trigger either line >125 or >250 VAC. Being in the country THINGS happen.
> Always expect the unusual.
> Mel, K6KBE
>
>
>From: David Robertson 
>   To: Elecraft 
>   Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 9:39 AM
>   Subject: [Elecraft] Items you think you can depend on
> 
> Everyone,
>
>   Over time we can grow complacent on many service items such as 
> electrical power, water and other services over time. Well that can be 
> concerning as many hidden changes can result in damage to your home and
equipment.
>
> Late late night I came in to my den and was closing down my ham 
> station when I notice my fault light on my KPA500 linear was on. I 
> powered it down and retired for the evening. This morning I powered up 
> the linear (KPA500) and at once I got a fault light and had a high 
> voltage alert. I powered down the linear and checked my input line 
> voltage. It was 137 volts RMS! To be sure it wasn't my imagination I 
> rechecked the voltage with a different meter with the same result. In 
> checking the 220 volt outlet I measured 274 volts! My linear is set up 
> for 220 volts operation and it was getting over
> 90 volts HV.
>
> I alerted the neighbors and cut the main breaker to the house. I then 
> called the power company's service number and reported the problem. A 
> short time later they called me back and reported that a regulator in 
> the local sub station had "Stuck" and was reset. In rechecking my line 
> voltage it was
> 118 volts on the low side and 236 volts on the high side.
>
> In the 12 years we have been at this qth we found that our town's 
> locally run power company has been very reliable but this experience 
> showed me that it is not a bad idea to check your line voltage every once
in a while.
> 73
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Final Reminder: Y-BOX Labor Day Weekend Special ends at 0700 UTC today

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

No, I screwed up and replied to the wrong post Bob.

 

Somehow this started as a humor thread about the power company’s electrons 
getting tired, and I just HAD to open my big mouth (again).

But, as so often happens, I screw up and reply to the wrong post.

 

Sorry to all, I’ll try to behave better.

Charlie k3ICH

 

 

 

 

 

From: rawil...@gmail.com [mailto:rawil...@gmail.com] On Behalf Of Bob Wilson, 
N6TV
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2017 5:46 PM
To: Charlie T, K3ICH <pin...@erols.com>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Final Reminder: Y-BOX Labor Day Weekend Special ends at 
0700 UTC today

 

Charlie,

 

I'm not sure what you're trying to tell me.  Are you saying you think my post 
is useless Spam, and you don't want me to post anything like that to the 
reflector ever again?

 

73,
Bob, N6TV

 

On Sep 4, 2017 1:42 PM, "Charlie T, K3ICH" <pin...@erols.com 
<mailto:pin...@erols.com> > wrote:

Well, I sure know what to do when MY electrons get tired

I threaten to cut off their Volts and throw them into the Flux-Capacitor.

That sets them back a bit.

Charlie k3ICH




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
<mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net> 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
<mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net> ] On Behalf Of Bob Wilson, N6TV
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2017 2:12 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector <Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
<mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net> >; Elecraft K3 Yahoo Group
<elecraft...@yahoogroups.com <mailto:elecraft...@yahoogroups.com> >
Subject: [Elecraft] Final Reminder: Y-BOX Labor Day Weekend Special ends at
0700 UTC today

Reminder, order forms submitted by midnight tonight (Labor Day, here in
California) will receive free domestic shipping, or discounted international
shipping.

Direct link to order form here

<https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSey0UAeRL34jYqspGPIlAdWGo7g9Stgoky 
<https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSey0UAeRL34jYqspGPIlAdWGo7g9Stgoky4H6SsYa0yy1dPwg/viewform?c=0=1>
 
4H6SsYa0yy1dPwg/viewform?c=0=1>

.

More info. at https://bit.ly/Y-BOX

Thanks for your support.

73,
Bob, N6TV

On Fri, Sep 1, 2017 at 11:16 AM, Bob Wilson, N6TV <n...@arrl.net 
<mailto:n...@arrl.net> > wrote:

> All Y-BOX orders received before midnight Pacific Time on Labor Day
> (by

> 2017-09-05 07:00 UTC) will qualify for *free domestic shipping via
> USPS Priority Mail*.  Limit:  3 Y-BOXs per customer.

>
> International orders received by the same deadline will qualify for
> discounted shipping (discounted by same dollar amount as domestic
shipping).
>
> The Y-BOX is a 4-way passive splitter and breakout box for the
> Elecraft K3 and K3S accessory port. The main value is the elimination
> of a tangle of unreliable Y-Cable connections when you have multiple
> devices that all need to connect to the same ACC/AUX connector, including:
>

>1. KAT500 / KPA500 / KPA1500 cable (KPAK3AUX).
>2. Band Decoder
>3. FSK keying interface
>4. SO2R box
>5. Remote Rig Interface

>
> The Y-BOX can also be used as a breakout box for any device that uses
> a 15-pin "VGA" style accessory connector (DE-15), including the Flex
> 6000 series, ACOM Amplifiers, and the 4O3A Antenna Genius.
>
> For photos, details, and the order link, please visit my web site.
> Order any time before midnight PT Monday to receive free domestic
shipping:
>
> https://bit.ly/Y-BOX
>
> Thanks, and Happy Labor Day!
>
> 73,
> Bob, N6TV
>

__

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Final Reminder: Y-BOX Labor Day Weekend Special ends at 0700 UTC today

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Well, I sure know what to do when MY electrons get tired

I threaten to cut off their Volts and throw them into the Flux-Capacitor.

That sets them back a bit.

Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob Wilson, N6TV
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2017 2:12 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector ; Elecraft K3 Yahoo Group

Subject: [Elecraft] Final Reminder: Y-BOX Labor Day Weekend Special ends at
0700 UTC today

Reminder, order forms submitted by midnight tonight (Labor Day, here in
California) will receive free domestic shipping, or discounted international
shipping.

Direct link to order form here

.

More info. at https://bit.ly/Y-BOX

Thanks for your support.

73,
Bob, N6TV

On Fri, Sep 1, 2017 at 11:16 AM, Bob Wilson, N6TV  wrote:

> All Y-BOX orders received before midnight Pacific Time on Labor Day 
> (by
> 2017-09-05 07:00 UTC) will qualify for *free domestic shipping via 
> USPS Priority Mail*.  Limit:  3 Y-BOXs per customer.
>
> International orders received by the same deadline will qualify for 
> discounted shipping (discounted by same dollar amount as domestic
shipping).
>
> The Y-BOX is a 4-way passive splitter and breakout box for the 
> Elecraft K3 and K3S accessory port. The main value is the elimination 
> of a tangle of unreliable Y-Cable connections when you have multiple 
> devices that all need to connect to the same ACC/AUX connector, including:
>
>1. KAT500 / KPA500 / KPA1500 cable (KPAK3AUX).
>2. Band Decoder
>3. FSK keying interface
>4. SO2R box
>5. Remote Rig Interface
>
> The Y-BOX can also be used as a breakout box for any device that uses 
> a 15-pin "VGA" style accessory connector (DE-15), including the Flex 
> 6000 series, ACOM Amplifiers, and the 4O3A Antenna Genius.
>
> For photos, details, and the order link, please visit my web site. 
> Order any time before midnight PT Monday to receive free domestic
shipping:
>
> https://bit.ly/Y-BOX
>
> Thanks, and Happy Labor Day!
>
> 73,
> Bob, N6TV
>
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Re: [Elecraft] What technical similarity do HRO receivers and Elecraft receivers share that is unique? - Answer

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

The Hallicrafters SX-73 used three selectable fixed very low value resistors to 
alter the Q and hence, the passband of three IF stages.

Does this qualify?

73, Charlie k3ICH


If you happen to own one, I'd strongly suggest checking these resistors.  I 
have two radios in for restoration, where the resistors were off by as much as 
a factor of 3 which completely screwed up the alignment.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Doug Millar via Elecraft
Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2017 8:46 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] What technical similarity do HRO receivers and Elecraft 
receivers share that is unique? - Answer

Hi Don and others-   Ok.Here is my answer-  I don't think I am far off by 
saying that the unique similarity it is in using switched components to effect 
frequency coverage of the same tuning coil. In the HRO they had clips you could 
change over to go to "bandspread" mode on each coil assembly, Elecraft uses 
relays (switches) to change capacitor values in their bandpass filters so that 
the same assembly can cover two ranges. Essentially the same thing. I don't 
think any other companies have used this technique as extensively as National 
and Elecraft. 
Your opinion may vary.Doug
 Dr.Doug Millar EdD.
K6JEY
drzarko...@yahoo.com
562 810 3989  cell/text

 
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Re: [Elecraft] Receiver Similaritie

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

They both run on electrons, hopefully traveling is about the same 
direction...

C

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Doug Millar via Elecraft
Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2017 1:46 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] Receiver Similaritie

For fun- What technical design technique does the National HRO receiver series  
have in common with the Elecraft series of receivers that is unique to both of 
them?  Doug K6JEY
 

 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2, spy radio

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

And here I thought Art Collins invented SSB, like algore invented the internet 
(wink-wink)

Chas


(For all who take life too seriously this WAS intended to be humorous)

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dave Sublette
Sent: Friday, September 01, 2017 8:46 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX2, spy radio

As a former CT — I enjoyed the web page.  Thanks for sharing.

Dave, K4TO
> On Sep 1, 2017, at 1:09 AM, Mike Morrow  wrote:
> 
> Chas wrote:
> 
>> SSB would have been the equivalent of encryption.
> 
> Not even remotely so...SSB technology goes back decades before WWII.
> 
> From Wikipedia:
> 
> "The first U.S. patent for SSB modulation was applied for on December 1, 1915 
> by John Renshaw Carson. The U.S. Navy experimented with SSB over its radio 
> circuits before World War I.  SSB first entered commercial service on January 
> 7, 1927 on the longwave transatlantic public radiotelephone circuit between 
> New York and London."
> 
> Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2, spy radio

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

SSB would have been the equivalent of encryption.

Much like cursive writing today is secret code for us "old" people.

Chas

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Peterson
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2017 9:34 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KX2, spy radio

Imagine what the WWII resistance/spies would have given for a KX2!  Fun and
interesting to look at the equipment they were using.
Steve, Ki7L
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 roofing flters vs IC-7300

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Sometimes
C

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike via Elecraft
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2017 10:42 AM
To: Elecraft List 
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 roofing flters vs IC-7300

Hi guys,
I have a KX3 with roofing filters installed. I also have an IC-7300. Will
KX3 have an advantage on receive in noisy environment and what is the best
way to use them (SSB and CW)?
Thanks!MikeAB3VN
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Band Plans

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Is  Russian TV still on 48 or so MHz.?  They've probably also gone digital.
I remember listening for that TV picture buzz as an indicator that the MUF was 
creeping up.

73, Charlie k3ICH

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Kane
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2017 9:47 PM
To: Todd ; k2...@arrl.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Band Plans

On 8/23/2017 5:44 PM, Todd wrote:

> When I hear statewide CHP comms, or other state low band Highway 
> Patrol,  I know that something is happening on six...

In 1959 at the peak of the sunspot cycle, the Los Angeles Sheriff's Department 
main dispatch was co-channel with the NYPD dispatch channel for the Brooklyn 
Borough Command (39.58 IIRC).  At the time I was a reserve deputy with the LASO 
 and we would generally hear the NYPD calls in the daytime.  I had no problem 
with that because I grew up in Brooklyn and recognized both the accent and the 
street names!

At the time I was still a Tech and had no HF privileges and of course Elecraft 
was not in existence. Six meters was not in general use in both the LA and the 
NY areas because TV Channel 2 was in use locally (CBS O).

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Band Plans

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

6M FM mobile operation tends to be less bothered by hill & valley drop out.
We have done extensive testing here in the Washington * DC area using 52,
146, 223 & 449 FM with identical mobile antennas & power out, communicating
directly with home stations.  A separate wide coverage 220 repeater was used
to coordinate the testing.
When you are operating purposely with relatively weak signals, as you go up
in frequency, the signal loss is much worse when you pop over a hill into a
small valley, which may be only a 20 to 50 feet difference in height,
where-as the lower freqs seem to "fill-in" better.
 Admittedly we did not do any testing in a metro environment, where the
higher freqs (440?) may yield better coverage due to building reflections.
Our testing was performed strictly in open country of Maryland and no.
Virginia. 
   
73, Charlie k3ICH

* Potomac Area VHF Society, tests done in the early 70's

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Edward R Cole
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2017 11:54 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Band Plans

No problem if you come to Alaska.  Most 6m activity is 50 - 50.300,
52.525 and one repeater in Anchorage on 52.81 (51.11 input) which is not
usable 100km (65 mi) south of Anchorage using a 24-foot high J-pole (only
20% quieting) and requires over 100w to access.

In my opinion 6m ground-wave s**ks when compared with 2m or 222.  Anchorage
has a 224.94 (223.34) repeater that runs S9 over the same path.  Propagation
on 222 often exceeds that on 2m (we get frequent inversion layer wx).  I run
30w on 222 FM with a new Bridgecom radio (traded my 222-28 transverter since
there was no CW/SSB activity).  I have a 150w amp on 222 for those that use
only a HT and "wet noodle" antenna.

222 is the "overlooked" ham band by mfr's - a real shame!

BTW the KX3 works very well on 6m (receive sensitivity with PRE on
comparable with my K3+PR6).  It drives the KXPA100 just as nicely (even
nicer with remote control line  using the KXAT100 for mobile HF/6m).

73, Ed - KL7UW


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Re: [Elecraft] Reflector change?

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Don't change a thing...

Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken G Kopp
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2017 11:41 AM
To: Elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] Reflector change?

Wayne, Eric,

Rose and I much prefer the reflector as it is now.  Please, no changes.

73

K0PP
N7HKW
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Re: [Elecraft] OT Yamaha CM-500 ear pads

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

If you get a set of Beyerdynamics velour pads, you'll never go back to that
flaky vinyl surface that OEM Yamaha and Sony use.

They may even be to exact same size too , so I'd bet the Sony type will fit
the CM-500. I have both and they look identical.

They're a tad pricier at about $23  than the cheap Chicom replacements and
best price I've found on them is from Sweetwater Music.

As a side note, I bought a cheap set of pads for a couple bucks, and they
ruined the sound of the Sony's, because they were too small and didn't fit
my ears properly.
They are now in the trash. The Beyerdynamics fit perfectly and are very
comfortable.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of mpupeza mpupeza
Sent: Friday, August 04, 2017 11:47 PM
To: Bob Wilson, N6TV ; elecraft 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT Yamaha CM-500 ear pads

Bob, et al,
I installed the Koss UR40 pads on the CM-500 headset. I can't remember which
video but the Yamaha and Koss are the same size pads.
73
Mike VE3EQP .>

> -- Original Message --
> From: "Bob Wilson, N6TV" 
> Date: August 4, 2017 at 9:45 PM
> 
> 
> Mike,
> 
> Which video?  Are you installing the new UR40 pads on a CM500 or on a
KOSS?
> 
> 73,
> Bob, N6TV
> 
> On Fri, Aug 4, 2017 at 5:10 PM, mpupeza mpupeza 
> wrote:
> 
> > I ordered Koss UR40 cushions from Koss and they were $5.00 + $0.35 
> > Tax (S+H
> > FREE) to my Winter Home in Florida. Perfect fit but snug and awkward 
> > to install.
> > I looked how to do them on Youtube. There are several screws to 
> > loosen under the rim of the old ones. They were mail delivered in 
> > less than a week. Much cheaper than a new headset.
> > Mike VE3EQP .>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S: LCD backlight is on, but no segments are lit

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

One thing (among MANY) that impresses me about Elecraft's service is that
they'll trust an owner to change a cap without requiring a lengthy and
expensive return process.
Not saying this is always the case, since some problems DO require a return.
That said, it's a LOT cheaper to send a K3 in than a 70+ pound "monster"
radio.

Oh, and pass me some more of that Kool-Aid too.

73, Charlie k3ICH


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Christopher Hoover
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2017 1:06 PM
To: Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft 
Cc: Wes Stewart ; Elecraft Reflector

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S: LCD backlight is on, but no segments are lit

Gary AB7MY from Elecraft suggested that it was likely a shorted C102.
Indeed it was.   Thanks, Gary!   73 de AI6KG


On Wed, Aug 2, 2017 at 10:22 PM, Christopher Hoover 
wrote:



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Re: [Elecraft] OT Yamaha CM-500 ear pads

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Yeah, but really nice velour* replacement pads for the Sony's can be had for
not much more than the $17 they want for those covers.

Charlie k3ICH

*Sweetwater has the best Beyerdynamic velour pads.  These are much more
comfortable than the OEM,  AND they won't flake off like the originals.
I have them on several Sony MDR7506's, which by the way, have much better hi
freq response than the CM-500, but obviously do not have a boom mike.
Try the Sony's. You'll hear stuff you didn't know was there in your music
collection.  Great for all us aging types that are losing our high-end
hearing too.



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dan Atchison via
Elecraft
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2017 7:47 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT Yamaha CM-500 ear pads

Not a replacement ear pad, but if you get a new headset, you might want to
cover them with a "Garfield Headphone Softie."  These covers protect the
original ear pad and, IMHO, make the headphones more comfortable on the ear.
I use them on my CM500 headset and my Sony MDR-7506 headphones.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/368310-REG/Garfield_SGARHS1_Headphone
_Softie_Earpad.html

73,
Dan



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Re: [Elecraft] OT Yamaha CM-500 ear pads

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Search on eBay.

Try a couple different words if it doesn't show the results you want.

I'll bet you'll find some Chicom stuff cheap with free shipping & no tax.
It may take a week or two to get here, but the price is right.

And before you send me an "All 'Made in China' stuff is junk" email, I have had 
the opposite experience.
I've bought lots of little stuff, connectors, misc parts, etc.,  that way and 
have yet to be disappointed in the quality.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of GaryK9GS
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2017 11:56 PM
To: Bob McGraw K4TAX ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT Yamaha CM-500 ear pads

Bob, K4TAX, Isis probably right.  You could try getting a set of Koss SB40 pads 
but it's probably not worth the trouble.
https://www.koss.com/headphones/headsets/sb40


73,
Gary K9GS
 Original message From: Bob McGraw K4TAX  
Date: 7/30/17  10:24 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: 
[Elecraft] OT Yamaha CM-500 ear pads For the price of the 
headset...order a new one...trash the old one.I'd 
expect cost of the ear pads plus shipping is ... 1/2 the cost of a new 
headset.

73

Bob, K4TAX


On 7/30/2017 10:18 PM, George Winship, NC5G wrote:
> Has anyone found a suitable replacement ear pad. Mine are worn out. Otherwise
> the headset is good and hate to discard it. Did not find anything in the
> archives.
>
> 73, George NC5G
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/OT-Yamaha-CM-500-ear-pads-tp7632896.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __
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> Message delivered to rmcg...@blomand.net
>


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Re: [Elecraft] Is it just me or is 6 meters hotter than usual?

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

E-Skip has been observed as high as 220 MHz.
It certainly is prevalent on 144 Mhz, obviously not as much as on 6 & 10 M but 
it DOES happen.
Multiple hop Es can get you quite a ways on 6M, especially if it is combined 
with some Tropo ducting.
During really good  F-2 openings, it seems that the higher the MUF, the less 
power it takes to actually make a contact.
I remember working a guy in Nome Alaska on 6 meters.  He was running 8 watts to 
a halo on his 2nd floor apartment balcony and was 20 over 9 here in nawthrun 
Vuhginya.

73, Charlie k3ICH




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred Jensen
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2017 3:41 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Is it just me or is 6 meters hotter than usual?

Es happens every summer.  It commonly is most prevalent on 6, however 10 is 
often involved.  I've experienced it on 20and 15 on rare occasions.  
It sure does seem to be more pronounced this year though.  For some reason, it 
seems to abhor the western part of North America.  I suspect part of that may 
be because there are precious few hams out in the Basin and Range to use it... 
you know, "tree falls in the forest, no one is there ..."

There's an RF-quiet QTH in the Bay Area? [:-)

73,


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Package Discounts

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Not to point any fingers at ANYONE, but most of the "problems" that show up
here are in fact, miss-interpretations, or.NOT reading the manual in the
first place.
And I'm as guilty of this as anyone. Hey, I know how to operate a bloody
radio right?   However, I try not to cry wolf until I have completely proven
myself as not the culprit, which means I seldom do post a problem! 

Another area that can easily be interpreted as a "problem" when scanning the
forum is actually with after-market software and/or interfacing with
peripheral equipment.
If you count the real production/equipment failures vs. "others", I'll bet
they're quite low and typical of any quality manufacturer.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Vic Rosenthal
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2017 10:26 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S Package Discounts

The email reflector is the first place to go if you have a problem. So of
course reading it gives you the impression that there are a lot of problems.
But I suspect it would be the same with a similar reflector dedicated to ANY
manufacturer's equipment.
The look... well, that is up to you!

Vic 4X6GP 



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Re: [Elecraft] Signing QRP

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Don't forget, signing WX1XXX/QRP is ILLEGAL.  You are NOT operating portable
on the isle of QRP.
Chas

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill via Elecraft
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2017 1:30 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Signing QRP

I hate when guys sign QRP...especially in a contest.  An absolute waste of
time and makes the reception of the guys call more difficult.  Usually the
QRP guys are weak and I usually get the Q or the R or the P as part of his
call.  Don't do it.


Bill K4XS/KH7XS
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Re: [Elecraft] Signing QRP

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Don't forget, signing WX1XXX/QRP is ILLEGAL.  You are NOT operating portable
on the isle or QRP.
Chas

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill via Elecraft
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2017 1:30 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Signing QRP

I hate when guys sign QRP...especially in a contest.  An absolute waste of
time and makes the reception of the guys call more difficult.  Usually the
QRP guys are weak and I usually get the Q or the R or the P as part of his
call.  Don't do it.


Bill K4XS/KH7XS
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Re: [Elecraft] Signing "/QRP"

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Ultimately, what is the real purpose of signing /QRP ???

The only answer I can think of translates to "give me a break, I want
special treatment".

I've operated many times with a barefoot KX3 and now a KX2 and NEVER signed
/QRP, or even mentioned the power level  unless the contact asked what I was
running.

There's so much more to talk about instead of the radio and Wx.

73, Charlie k3ICH


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron Polityka
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2017 3:33 PM
To: 'Elecraft' 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Signing "/QRP"

Hello,

 I operate QRP 99% of the time.

I never sign /QRP. It takes skill while operating QRP, 5W CW or SSB, to snag
a QSO that is local in the U.S.A. or a DX station.

73
Ron Polityka
WB3AAL
K2 & K1 owner

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken G Kopp
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2017 2:33 PM
To: Elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] Signing "/QRP"

I view it as a "I'm special ... Please take pitty on me - I -never- respond.

73

K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] Interesting meter

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Here's some distinct possibilities

#1. It was used in an instrument that monitored the water level of a fish pond.
SWR = Still Water Reading.

#2. Then again, it may have been a modern version of something to keep track of 
evil doers in the north as in:
SWR = Salem Witch Raids, but the company went out of business early since there 
wasn't much call for that in modern times since nobody cared.

#3. Monty Python may have used the tester to measure audience responses to:
SWR = Silly Walks Reaction.

#4 In Horse racing, it was a:
SWR = Saddle Weight Range, to monitor the thoroughbred's load.

#5 Of course, the Lone Ranger may have kept a watch on his bullet production 
with a:
SWR = Silver Working Reserve device at his mine.

Chas





-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Christ
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2017 11:38 PM
To: Howard Hoyt 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Interesting meter

The first question that comes to mind is  “How do we know that SWR stands for 
Standing Wave Ratio?”

David K0LUM


> On Jul 13, 2017, at 10:22 PM, Howard Hoyt  wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I figured maybe one of you was, um, experienced enough to recognize this 
> meter and let me know what piece of equipment it came from.  I found it in a 
> cache of old broadcast equipment, so it is possible it was part of an old 
> carrier current transmitter or some other such thing.  This is the link to 
> the picture:
> 
> https://proaudioeng.com/swr-meter/
> 
> Cheers & 73,
> 
> Howie - WA4PSC
> 
> __



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Re: [Elecraft] Car-Starter battery packs

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I'm seeing a lot of good deals on these Lithium battery, emergency "car
starter" packs.

They're typically rates from 12000 to 24000 mA-hr, or, as we're inclined to
call them 18 to 24 Amp-Hr.
Prices vary from about $40 up over $80.

They come in a nice durable case with a charger and output cables.

At first glance, they'd seem ideal for a field pack for portable radio
operation.
They certainly can't be limited in their current capability, considering
what it takes to start even a small car's engine.
But then, their ratings may be extremely optimistic.

Anybody gat any thoughts on these?

73, Charlie k3ICH



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Re: [Elecraft] Wind Camp heat sink for KX# for sale

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Sorry, I forgot to change the subject line

-Original Message-
From: Charlie T, K3ICH [mailto:pin...@erols.com] 
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2017 9:45 AM
To: 'elecraft@mailman.qth.net' <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] New release of Win4K3Suite

Since I now have a KX2, but not a KX3, a nice Wind Camp (red) heat sink
specifically made for the KX3 is extra.
It is very well made with a counter sunk mounting holes and bare surface for
the two output transistors.
It has never been installed, so it is officially brand new.
The machining quality is excellent.

I will ship it in the 48 for $35.
Int'l shipping extra.

73, Charlie k3ICH



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Re: [Elecraft] New release of Win4K3Suite

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Since I now have a KX2, but not a KX3, a nice Wind Camp (red) heat sink
specifically made for the KX3 is extra.
It is very well made with a counter sunk mounting holes and bare surface for
the two output transistors.
It has never been installed, so it is officially brand new.
The machining quality is excellent.

I will ship it in the 48 for $35.
Int'l shipping extra.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tom
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2017 12:07 PM
To: Elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] New release of Win4K3Suite

Hello,
There is a new release of Win4K3Suite for the Elecraft K3-S, KX3, and KX2.
This release provides polling performance improvements and fixes an issue
with the compression and monitor sliders.

Win4K3Suite is the ultimate computer control and integration program for
your Elecraft Radio.  It interfaces with all Elecraft hardware allowing even
the KX2 to control and integrate the KPA500 and KAT500.  In addition, it has
built in virtual port technology which allows up to 4 software or hardware
devices to share the radio.  Integrates with HRD LogBook and DM780, DXLab,
Log4OM, you name it!  Includes a built in Panadapter supporting LPPAN, and
SDRPlay.
You can see an overview here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htVlc9x0IoU

and some reviews here:
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/11214

73 Tom
va2fsq.com

---
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I have to ask, has ANYONE ever heard of a circumstance where the negative
return lead from the battery to the engine block has ever failed, short of a
battlefield situation?
Still, probably a good idea to fuse the negative to radio wire anyway.

Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Vic Rosenthal
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2017 11:52 AM
To: Clay Autery 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

I don't think math or difficult physics is needed. Suppose you connect the
radio directly to battery, and then suppose the battery to ground cable
becomes partially or completely disconnected. Finally, suppose you then try
to start the engine. When the starter solenoid closes, some of the high
current from the battery negative terminal flows through the negative lead
to the radio, and then to ground through the radio's mounting bracket, the
coax to the antenna, etc. The no. 10 ground wire might have to carry several
hundred amps! Lots of things can be damaged.
This is why negative leads should be fused, at least.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 27 Jun 2017, at 18:21, Clay Autery  wrote:
> 
> Horse puckey!  I DEFY you to prove the physics OR math of that 
> ridiculous statement.
> 
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> 
>> On 6/27/2017 9:55 AM, donov...@starpower.net wrote:
>> WARNING! 
>> 
>> 
>> For extremely important safety and fire prevention reasons reasons, 
>> no accessory should ever be connected directly to the negative 
>> terminal of an automotive battery . Just like when charging an 
>> automotive battery, the negative lead of a cable running directly to 
>> the battery should always connect to the engine block and never 
>> directly to the battery.
>> 
>> 
>> The positive lead must be fused where it connects to the battery. 
>> 
>> 
>> There's an excellent discussion here: 
>> 
>> https://www.w8ji.com/negative_lead_to_battery.htm
>> 
>> 
>> 73
>> Frank
>> W3LPL
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: vehicle power outlets

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

For anyone considering this for a different vehicle, my 2015 Forrester's 12V
outlets ARE all switched by the ignition switch.
I have a typical VHF FM box in the cargo compartment that is powered by the
rear "cig" lighter outlet.   No HF in the "family car" however.
This radio also has the ability to turn itself off after a selectable time
of no operation, but this is probably not the case for HF rigs.
For me, this connection works fine with no problems with power, RFI etc.
The 10 Amp max rating is generally common, but the on/off switching may be
more typical.  
My Taco's front outlets are also switched.  I only use them for GPS and USB
charging, but I did run separate a feed for the TS-480.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Craig LaBarge
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2017 5:45 AM
To: erw@gmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

Gene:

I have a 2017 Silverado 1500 double-cab.  The 12V outlet on the dashboard is
on all the time.  There's one inside the center console and one on the rear
of the console (for rear passengers) that are switched.

I don't know what the current ratings are but I use the one in the rear to
power my Yaesu FT-8800 dual-band rig at full power (50W on 2M) with no
issues.  I occasionally use the one on the dash to power an APRS tracker (8
watts).

I haven't used an HF rig with the power outlets but on VHF/UHF I have no
detectable noise.  Again, I don't know if that would be the case at HF.

Hope this helps.

73, Craig WB3GCK
http://wb3gck.craiglabarge.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] 6 meters open this morning; listening 50.095 (CW)

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I think a lot of that comes from the fact that the average active 6M station 
runs a modest beam & 100 W.
So, any less than that average is at a disadvantage.
Obviously some run yuge beams and legal limit. Those station get through 1st, 
followed by the average stations and finally the rest.
6M offers every propagation mode known at one time or another. However, some 
openings only last a matter of minutes.
This is especially true for multiple hop sporadic E, not so much as when the 
MUF makes it to 50 MHz for true F2 openings.
F2 seems to last a tad longer.  Sporadic E can also be very localized where 
stations 50 miles apart are not in the "skip-zone".
During very active times, a few of us in the DC area keep in touch on 2M FM. We 
have all found for example, many times a station in Baltimore MD will hear the 
DX fine but someone in say, in no. Virginia hears nothing.
Give it twenty minutes and the situation reverses.
I have been active on 50MHz for over 50 years.  Taking advantage of the 6M 
propagation requires much more listening than transmitting because, relating to 
the comment above, calling a station in the noise is probably just clobbering 
the guys who CAN hear it.
Listen 1st. Analyze who's working what and where before just blasting away.
The beacons around 50.05 to 50.08 will tell you where the propagation is 
favoring. These beacons are all over the world, so use them to your advantage.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of lmarion
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2017 10:55 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Bob McGraw K4TAX 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 6 meters open this morning; listening 50.095 (CW)

Yes the tuners are great, and my 160 mtr full wave loop makes a good  6mtr 
antenna, especially on receive.

But something about 6 mtrs on a beam, magic.

Hf beams, yeah they do mostly what you expect.  But something about the short 
wave length, maybe.

Maybe 2 mtrs is that way too, I don't know.

But every 6 meter beam I have kicks butt.

My KX3 and a portable MFJ 6 meter 3ele beam works like a big gun station.

Leroy AB7CE



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Re: [Elecraft] Corn Starch Packing Peanuts

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

BUT, don't use them if they've absorbed too much moisture.  They shrink &
get hard as a rock.  They'll scratch up your radio AND have virtually no
shock ability when they get that way
Also, they weigh more than the Styrofoam which lasts indefinitely.

I generally just throw them in the wood stove if it's winter, or leave them
out in the rain so they melt in summer.

73, Charlie k3ICH


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rod Hardman(VA3ON)
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2017 8:08 PM
To: Rick Tavan 
Cc: Dauer, Edward ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Packing Peanuts

Actually there is a pretty good substitute package ng peanut made of starch.
(You can eat them, although I don't suggest it having ng "demoed" that in
many a warehouse tour years ago) they also hold less of a charge and "melt"
in water. Pretty cool stuff and recommended!

/rod VA3ON

On Jun 17, 2017, at 19:31, Rick Tavan  wrote:

Yeah, they're a bit annoying but I can live with them. What I can't tolerate
is those rigid plastic blister packs that are nearly impossible to open
without a power tool. Online vendors should disclose usage of that packaging
technique so one can decline to purchase the stuff. Some companies are
beginning to advertise "user friendly packaging." I like them!

73,

/Rick N6XI

> On Sat, Jun 17, 2017 at 1:20 PM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> 
> Just received a K2 kit via UPS -- my third in fact -- and spent 20 
> comical minutes trying to empty out the styrofoam packing peanuts.
> 
> They come, apparently, fully charged.  They cling to my fingers.  They 
> cling to my shirt.  They cling to the outer shipping box.  After I get 
> about ten handfuls into a small trash bag the common charge results in 
> the smaller pieces flying out again.  Back onto my fingers.  Grabbing 
> them with one hand while holding a cold water faucet with the other 
> didn' t help at all.
> 
> Whenever I get a kit I feel as if I have to do the electrostatic 
> equivalent of a detox shower before I do the parts inventory.  Isn't 
> there some good substitute for these accursed things?  Maybe like 
> their ancestors
> -- real peanuts?  At least you can eat those while you're unpacking 
> the kit . . .
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone 
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> 



-- 

Rick Tavan
Truckee, CA
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Re: [Elecraft] Satisfaction with Elecraft

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Isn't it time we changed the word "frustration" to "satisfaction" ?

Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gary Smith
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2017 1:25 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Frustration with Elecraft

Andy,

Just to be another to chime in on the
bandwagon, This is the kind of response that Elecraft has been doing since I
first bought my K3 kit in 98 I think it was.

I now have a fully loaded K3s, a backup K3, fully loaded P3 and a K-Pod. My
amplifier is an Alpha 77SX but I am seriously considering going for the
upcoming Elecraft SS 1500W amp. The only thing that could pry the 77SX out
of my fingers would be a full limit Elecraft amp. I have come to equate
Elecraft with integrity and quality.

You will enjoy your radios and you will have fun discovering all the hidden
nuggets your radios have waiting for you to uncover.

73,

Gary
KA1J


> Wayne,
> 
> Thanks for the quick response and action!
> 
> I look forward to having a great field day.
> 
> 
> 
> -
> NB8F - Andy
> Elecraft K3S / KX2
> User since June 2017
> Ham since March 2015
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Frustration-with-Elecraft-tp76316
> 98p7631707.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at 
> Nabble.com.
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> 



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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Battery Question

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

That's like saying Mylar tape.  Mylar, or in this case Kapton is the base 
carrier.  The type of tape in the link has copper foil is attached to the 
Kapton base, so in that particular case, it IS conductive.
But the base material, Kapton like Mylar, is NOT conductive.

Kapton can have a carbon dust applied which IS conductive.  Mylar can have Iron 
Oxide applied, which is better known as recording tape.

The only use I've ever seen for Kapton tape is high temperature masking for 
example, in powder coating fusing around 400 degrees F.

73, Charlie k3ICH



To: Mark Petiford ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Battery Question

I'll just reply with

https://www.kaptontape.com/Conductive_Tapes.php

I last used it in the IFE industry.  There may be more than one type, but I'm 
not an expert at this.

73,

matt W6NIA


On 05/27/2017 03:31 PM, Mark Petiford wrote:
> RE: Kapton tape
>
>
> Matt,
>
>
> Kapton is actually a pretty good insulator, but it is NOT a good 
> material to prevent abrasion.  The aircraft industry tried to use it 
> as wire insulation, and as an anti-abrasion wrap around entire wire 
> bundles.  Unfortunately, some manufacturers jumped the gun and 
> implemented it without testing, using "qualification by analysis" as 
> their basis for using it.  I must admit that it SEEMS like it would do 
> those jobs well.
>
>
> It turns out that when we tested it, we found that it doesn't do well 
> in a high humidity and high vibration environments, and doesn't 
> withstand chaffing very well either.  We rejected its use, but not 
> before we had wire harnesses already in production using Kapton 
> insulated wires.  Needless to say, we had to rework those harnesses.
> I don't know if the FAA issued an Airworthiness Directive against 
> those aircraft that were delivered using Kapton insulation, but there 
> was discussion of that
>
>
> Mark,
>
> KE6BB
>
>
> --
> --
> *From:* Matt Zilmer 
> *To:* elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> *Sent:* Saturday, May 27, 2017 2:22 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Battery Question
>
> Someone mentioned Kapton tape earlier, to be used to insulate the 
> battery side of the PCBA.  Kapton tape is conductive and used mostly 
> for EMI shielding.  Putting it or other tapes (some electrical tapes) 
> on the the PCBA would probably change electrical characteristics - 
> conduction between unmasked vias/pads, etc.
>
> I would avoid using Kapton if you want an insulator.
>
> Just thought this might benefit someone later on.
>
> 73,
>
> matt W6NIA
>
>
> On 05/27/2017 10:42 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
> > There are no components anywhere near the battery. The bottom of the
> RF board in this area was left completely clear specifically to avoid 
> the need for any supplemental insulating material.
> >
> > 73,
> > Wayne
> > N6KR
> >
> >
> >
> >> On May 27, 2017, at 10:14 AM, Peter Pauly  > wrote:
> >>
> >> I would have liked to see a big piece of kapton tape covering the
> board. Aren't the components ESD sensitive?
> >>
> >> On Sat, May 27, 2017 at 10:23 AM, Tim McDonough N9PUZ
> > wrote:
> >> On 5/27/2017 12:14 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
> >> I have a "new to me" KX2 along with the internal battery and
> charger. Inside the KX2 battery compartment, is there supposed to be 
> any sort of insulating sheet or pad covering the circuit board?
> >>
> >> No insulating sheet is necessary. The battery is double
> shrink-wrapped, there are no parts on that area of the PC board, and 
> there’s nothing sharp that could abrade the plastic covering. It’s all 
> quite safe.
> >>
> >> There is of course a rubberized pad on the inside of the bottom
> cover. This creates high friction to keep the battery from moving around.
> >>
> >>
> >> Very good. Great radio and I just didn't want to mess anything up.
> >>
> >> Thank you Wayne!
> >>
> >> 73,
> >>
> >> Tim N9PUZ
> >>
> >> __
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> >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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> >> 
> >>
> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net  
> >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html 
> >> Message delivered to ppa...@gmail.com 
> >>
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> > help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message 
> > 

Re: [Elecraft] P3 Will it work on other Radios

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Yes. I believe the range for i's input is between 450 kHz and 21 MHz, so
it'll work with our boatanchor radios that use a 455 kHz  or 10.7 MHz IF.

73 Charlie k3ICH


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Scott
Russell
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2017 4:04 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] P3 Will it work on other Radios

Will the P3 work on other manufacturer radios?

Thanks, Scott N1SER
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft] KX2 Firmware

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Oh Boy, a new subject to create endless comments.

Things WERE starting to die down a tad.

Chas

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred
C. Jensen
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2017 12:42 AM
To: Chris Tate ; kev...@coho.net;
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft] KX2 Firmware

I missed the FW release, I was busy sharpening my sword and degreasing my
chain mail.

Fred K6DGW
Sparks NV

Chris Tate - N6WM  wrote:
>That's a busted exchange copy..  ;-).
>
>-Original Message-
>From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
>kev...@coho.net
>Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2017 5:43 PM
>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Firmware
>
>I must be getting old.  I really don't remember what I was doing in the
11th century.
>
>73,
>
> Kevin.  KD5ONS
>
>
>On 5/23/2017 5:38 PM, Tom Francis, W1TEF wrote:
>> Greetings,
>>
>> I was just looking at the KX2 firmware, Beta and 2.69 and discovered 
>> that they were built and released in the 11th Century!! Who knew?!?
>>
>> **MCU 2.69 / DSP 1.49, Final Release Feb 5, 1017**
>>
>> **MCU 2.75 / DSP 1.49, April 7, 1017
>>
>> **Best regards,
>>
>> Tom, W1TEF
>> Lexington, SC
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT - Gaffers Tape

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

That and it's great for keeping noisy/nosy onlookers quiet.

8 inches applied just below the nose works fine.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Harry
Yingst via Elecraft
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2017 11:55 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] OT - Gaffers Tape

In applications where I don't want to leave any tape residue, instead of
duct tape I use gaffers tape.
It's something I use in photography but it's finding a place in my radio
bag.
It holds about the same as duct tape but is easier to rip into strips and
leaves less if any residue.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3s Macro Book

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Yeah, but the Ohio sales tax will probably be higher than shipping
costs.
Chas

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Irwin
Darack
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2017 11:53 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; ke9uw 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3s Macro Book

I am hoping they have some forsale at Dayton so I do not have to pay
shipping.

Irwin , KD3TB

On Sat, May 6, 2017 at 8:36 AM ke9uw  wrote:

> Macro book? Where is it available?
>
>
>
> -
> Chuck, KE9UW
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-K3s-Macro-Book-tp7630321p76303
> 67.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __
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> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email 
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> idar...@gmail.com
>
--
Irwin KD3TB
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Preamp 2 Six Meter Noise Figure

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I'll bet it’s a lot better than that.

A 39¢ GG junction FET pre-amp will do under well 2dB on 6.

Charlie k3ICH

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of ab2tc
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2017 2:08 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S Preamp 2 Six Meter Noise Figure

Hi,

According to the ARRL review in November, 2dB! Deaf no more.

AB2TC - Knut


stengrevics wrote
> Does anyone know what the preamp 2 noise figure is on 6 meters?  I 
> have not been able to find it in the owner's manual or in Fred's book.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> John
> WA1EAZ





--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3S-Preamp-2-Six-Meter-Noise-Figure-tp7
630221p7630223.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Equipment chat group

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Not me either.

Not while I have a working delete key.
That plus lots of the "OT" threads are quite interesting.

Charlie k3ICH


From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John
Lemay
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2017 9:29 AM
To: 'Elecraft@mailman.qth.net' 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Equipment chat group

I'm sure we don't need another Elecraft group - what we do need is more
respect from those who think this is a place to post almost anything OT.

Count me out.

John G4ZTR

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Michael Walker
Sent: Monday, May 1, 2017 13:06
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft Equipment chat group

Hi All

I am thinking of starting an Elecraft email forum that would focus only on
Elecraft equipment.

While I like this list for the Elecraft discussions, about 50% of it is
related to off topic items and they flood my inbox with hundreds of emails.

How many of you would be interested?

73 all, Mike va3mw
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 110v 240v

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

ALL modern amplifiers rated at only 1000 watts DO that.

The KPA1500 is rated for 1500 W and is capable of 2000 watts out.
Not practical for a 120V source.

Chas


Subject: [Elecraft] KPA1500 110v 240v

My Yaesu Quadra 1,000 watt amplifier works from either 120 VAC or 240 VAC
without changing any wiring.  The power supply recognizes the AC mains
voltage and sets itself appropriately.  Why shouldn't all "modern"
amplifiers do that?  

Bert N8NN
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Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Oh man, talk about putting one’s foot in one’s mouth!!

I guess I WAS missing a yuge point.

I immediately thought of the K3, K3S, KX2 & KX3.

I completely missed the fact you were asking about the K2, which of course, 
DOES have a green display.

 

Very sorry for all the wasted electrons….

 

Charlie T.

 

 

 

 

From: Bert Craig [mailto:wa...@arrl.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2017 9:25 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Charlie T, K3ICH <pin...@erols.com>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?

 

My K2/100 display is green, much more pleasing to the eye and easier to look at 
for longer periods of time. I'd love to see the option of a green display 
offered for the K3s. As always, take care es... 

Vy 73 de Bert
WA2SI

Sent from my android device.

-Original Message-----
From: "Charlie T, K3ICH" <pin...@erols.com <mailto:pin...@erols.com> >
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net <mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
Sent: Tue, 04 Apr 2017 9:20
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?

HI thought they were ALL amber ??? 

What color would you call the stock display, orangey-yellow maybe?? 

Not trying to be funny,( well, maybe just a tad) but what am I missing here? 

73, Charlie k3ICH 




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Re: [Elecraft] New KX products

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Add a hundred watt amp and you'd be very close to an IC-7300.

Chas

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Erik
Basilier
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2017 3:45 AM
To: 'KD6QZX' ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] New KX products

Would it not make sense to produce a KX3S that combines the KX3 with the
PX3, doubles the output power, and provides a full complement of I/O
connectors, and a new powerful Li-based battery?



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Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

HI thought they were ALL amber ???

What color would you call the stock display, orangey-yellow maybe??

Not trying to be funny,( well, maybe just a tad) but what am I missing here?

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Harry
Yingst via Elecraft
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2017 12:31 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?

I saw a picture wher somone had an amber display on their K2.
I would assume it's just a matter of changing out the led backlight.
So the question is where can I get an Amber backlight panel?Or do I just
make my own?
Thank you
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 loss of rx signal

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I would have thought the center pin would be smaller for higher Z connections 
(???).

Look at the size of the center conductor in a piece of RG-59/U.

Although, as usual I may have that completely wrong.

73, Charlie k3ICH





-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
danny.higg...@keme.co.uk
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2017 8:43 AM
To: Guy Olinger K2AV ; LA7NO ; 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 loss of rx signal

I had a similar frustrating problem with a BNC patch lead. I bought some cheap 
leads at a rally and I didn’t notice that the plugs were 75 Ohms. The leads 
worked OK, but the centre pin was thicker than the 50 Ohm version and it 
splayed out the centre connector of the socket, so when I plugged a 50 Ohm 
patch cable back in, the centre pin did not make contact any more. It took me a 
long time to find the cause, and now all the 75 Ohm leads are in the bin.

73,

Danny, G3XVR



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Re: [Elecraft] Amp Thoughts: 1000 watts or 1500 watts?

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

In some cases a dB or so CAN make a difference.  Otherwise, why bother to
put a ½dB noise figure GaAsFET pre-amp at the antenna just to overcome 2dB
of feedline loss?

At the other extreme, if you are being received at 20dB over S-9 running a
kilowatt, you'll still be S-5 at 100 milliwatts.


73, Charlie k3ICH


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron
D'Eau Claire
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 6:01 PM
To: 'Richard Thorne' ; 'Elecraft Reflector'

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amp Thoughts: 1000 watts or 1500 watts?

2 dB might make a difference if you are only interested in having your call
sign dug out of the noise for a contest or DXCC contact.

Way back the early books from the 1930's that I read and the OT commercial
operators from that era I knew said that under typical conditions found on
the air, 6 dB was about the minimum change to hear a real difference in the
signal while exchanging messages or other extended information. Those
stations would not try a direct contact if the signals were "in the mud"
opting instead for trying again at different time or getting a relay.

In commercial operations we did not use the Ham RST system, but rather QSA 1
through 5. 1 was a barely detected signal in the mud. 5 was a loud signal
with perfect copy. I confess to doing about the same with Ham signals,
choosing between at most five levels by ear for my report without reference
to an S-meter.  

Personally, I've never gotten very excited about anything less than a 10 dB
improvement, but the only DX I work are those calling me - usually for a rag
chew - and I don't contest. 

And, for me, Ken's observation is quite right. If I get the bug to drop my
Inverted L, rub some RF grease on the wire, neaten things up in general and
restring it, I do think I am getting out better and stations seem to come
back more quickly. Expectations are everything!

73, Ron AC7AC





-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken
K6MR
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 2:27 PM
To: Richard Thorne; Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amp Thoughts: 1000 watts or 1500 watts?

I'm running my two KPAs combined. Is there a difference? That's one of those
questions that is tough to answer. I worked lots of people with 500W. I work
lots of people with 1000+ W.  I don't chase DXCC but things seem to work
better on 160.


I do feel louder. I think it was N6TR that said (probably mis-quoted here)
"If you feel loud you are loud".


Ken K6MR



From: Elecraft  on behalf of Richard
Thorne 
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 9:31 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Amp Thoughts: 1000 watts or 1500 watts?

I have a pair of KPA-500's for an SO2R setup.  Seamless.

I've been running the numbers on the advantage of going to 1000 or 1500
watts.

500 watts to 1000 watts - 3.01 db gain
500 watts to 1500 watts - 4.77 db gain

Will the increase from 1000 to 1500 watts or a 1.76 db increase in gain,
make a difference? I'm sure it would in some circumstances, but how often?

I'm just starting on my quest to increase my dxcc totals on 80 and 160, so
maybe that 1.76 db would be the difference between a having a qso or not
having a qso.

What are the thoughts of the serious low band guys?

Thanks

Rich - N5ZC
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Re: [Elecraft] Help setting up digital

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Why would you think that?

Did it taste good like RTTY should?

And I'll bet there wasn't a cough in a carrier either.

If I REALLY date myself, did the "green go to war"? (with QRM ??)

73, Charlie k3ICH

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Nielsen
Sent: Monday, March 20, 2017 2:49 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Help setting up digital

Hmm, why does this make me think of an old cigarette advertisement?

Bob,N7XY


On 3/19/17 1:19 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:
> Low Space Means Fine Teletype

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Stops Transmitting (solved)

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Well, at least you did (a logical) SOMETHING which in all probability, fixed
the intermittent.
The hardest problems to solve are those where the fault just disappears but
you did NOTHING to fix it.

Fault...open lidclose lid...problem fixed = Yuge question mark!

Thanks especially for sharing your "fix".
It may save a few of us a lot of hair-pulling and/or a trip back to
Elecraft.

It is very frustrating to hear of a problem, and never find out what fixed,
or didn't fix it.

73, Charlie k3ICH

 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dennis
Sent: Monday, March 20, 2017 7:34 AM
To: Reflector Elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Stops Transmitting (solved)

A couple of weeks ago I posted that my K3 suddenly stopped transmitting
during ARRL CW.
The PTT would enable, it was not in TEST mode, the CW monitor would sound,
but no output.
Pushing the TUNE button would result in "0 watts" showing on the display.
The problem persisted after I power cycled the radio, plugged/unplugged the
DC source, tried various control changes, and a soft "drop" test.  Through
all of this, the Rx worked just fine.  Nothing restored the radio
transmitting ability.  So, I swapped it out and continued the contest.

When I got home, I hooked the radio up and it transmitted just fine.  
Something happened that
stopped the radio from transmitting, but now it worked fine.  So I posted my
experiences here and asked for suggestions.

A number suggested the DC power supply cable.  My experiences at the site
suggested that wasn't the culprit.  A number suggested that I had somehow
put the radio into "TEST" mode, but I was sure I had not.  I even toggled
into and out of "TEST" mode several times, but that didn't solve the
problem.  Several suggested that a voltage had been applied to the Inhibit
pin of the ACC15 connector, but there was nothing plugged into the ACC15
socket.  Two suggestions seemed most plausible: that one of the coax cables
from the new synthesizer to the other boards was intermittent, or that the
Sub Rx plugs was intermittent.

Once I had a place to look, I opened the radio and did the following:
1. Took a pair of long nose pliers and GENTLY rotated and firmly seated each
coaxial cable connector connecting the synthesizer board to the rest of the
radio.  
All seemed to be secure
and in tight, but they were all rotated just a little.
2. Checked the seating of the Sub Rx into its connectors.  The back
connector was not fully
seated- I'd say it was about 80% seated, but there is a little play in the
connector.  It is now fully seated.

Since then, I've operated the radio about 30 hours in contesting. The no
transmit problem has not come back.  Did I fix it?  The problem had never
happened before, I don't have a clear problem that was solved, but it has
made it 30 hours now without a problem.  At least for now, I feel the
problem has been solved.

Dennis W1UE
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 update utility download removed (i.e. blocked) by Norton Internet Security in Windows 7

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

YEP,  Norton IS a bear to get rid of.
It almost takes smashing the computer to kill it.

Chas

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Josh
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2017 1:16 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 update utility download removed (i.e. blocked)
by Norton Internet Security in Windows 7

Dumped Norton many years ago. It's nearly a virus itself. Haven't seen a
replacement suggested yet, so.. I've been very happy with NOD32. It's around
$30/yr, not the cheapest, but hasn't let me down. Have also heard good
reviews of Avast which is (used to be?) free. 

73,
Josh W6XU

Sent from my mobile device

> On Mar 17, 2017, at 11:26 PM, n...@comcast.net wrote:
> 
> I will second that suggestion. Norton takes total control of most all
programs and sees ham software as virus. Dumped Norton over a decade ago. 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Linear thoughts

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Well, if you've never tried to work truly "weak" signals, I can assure you
that +5 dB WILL make a world of difference.
Otherwise, why would you go to the trouble of installing a ½dB noise figure
pre-amp at the antenna, just to eliminate 2dB of feed-line loss on receive?
Or, stacking a second Yagi to gain at most, +3dB?
Yes, +5dB can be very hard to come by when you're operating at the fringes
of performance.
My thoughts are, if you're gonna run an amp at all, go for legal limit.

Not knocking anyone running 200 or 500 or 700 watts, just my own opinion.

73, Charlie k3ICH




-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred
Jensen
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2017 4:35 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Linear thoughts

Advising Elecraft about producing a larger amplifier is quite a bit above my
pay grade so I won't go there. However, going to 1,500 watts from 500 watts
is a bit less than 5 dB -- a little less than one International Standard
S-unit.  5 dB might come a lot cheaper from an antenna change.

Before purchasing the KPA500, I ran my "1,500 watt Behemoth" at 500 W for
close to a year to see if I could tell the difference. Admittedly, I'm a
casual contester and DX'er, and I operate my ham radio for other reasons
too, but I really couldn't see much if any difference in terms of who I
could work or how long it took to snag the latest expedition.  
Operating skill [or lack thereof in my case] was a much bigger factor.  
The KPA500 was full QSK which its predecessor was not, which became a big
advantage.

I have since sold the KPA500 [and KAT500] and run 100W from home. My
HOA-Stealth "wire on the fence" is close enough to the house that I
occasionally make something happen [like flash touch-lamps or reset the
u-wave clock], and I figured 500 W might nuke the neighbor's dog who patrols
the other side of the fence.  I'm very surprised that the wire,
6 feet high, works as well as it does. If I quest for QRO and "real
antennae," I can always run W7RN remotely.

73,

Fred ("Skip") K6DGW
Sparks NV USA
Washoe County DM09dn

On 3/16/2017 12:26 PM, Erik Basilier wrote:
> I recently sold my legal limit tube amp after a bit of a mental struggle.
> The seller in me finally won after I realized that "if I can't lift 
> it, I shouldn't own it". I was tempted to replace it with an ALS-1306, 
> but I operate RTTY and in that mode the 1306 wouldn't be good for more 
> output than a KPA500. Today I received my (new to me) KPA500. However, 
> in a contest someone with 1500 Watts will have a big advantage over my 
> 500 W, so the subject of higher power may soon come back to me.

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Re: [Elecraft] 80 Meter Verticals

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Well, THAT was certainly an eye-opener.

Thanks to all who commented. I really learned a lot from that discussion.

Thanks,  Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wes 
Stewart
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2017 11:18 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 80 Meter Verticals

Now that I provided the succinct answer, allow me to provide an in-depth answer.

But rather than me doing it, I will take the easy way out and simply provide a 
link to the fine explanation done by Tom, W8JI:

https://www.w8ji.com/radiation_resistance.htm

Wes  N7WS


On 3/1/2017 7:27 AM, Wes Stewart wrote:
> No truth at all.
>
> On 3/1/2017 6:25 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
>> Is there any truth in the theory of making the vertical radiator out 
>> of multiple wires such as ladder line and even adding a third wire 
>> woven through the ladder sections and fed on one wire?  The physical 
>> result is three parallel wires but electrically connected so as to form and 
>> "up, down and up
>> again" element.   This supposedly raises the radiating element impedance 
>> relative to the fixed ground loss resistance. The idea I'm told, is 
>> that since the ground resistance (loss) is fixed at whatever it is 
>> but as the actual radiating element impedance is raised, the antenna 
>> becomes more efficient since the ground loss percentage of the 
>> overall feed point impedance is lowered.  This impedance change 
>> happens in much the same way as a folded dipole feed is a higher 
>> impedance than a conventional dipole using a single wires.
>> I saw this written up a few years ago as a means of increasing the 
>> overall efficiency of an inverted L for either 160 of 80 M.
>>
>> I had an "L" made of the smaller ladder line on 160 with only four ¼λ 
>> radials on the ground that seemed to work fairly well. My plan was to 
>> install elevated radials, but that would have been a LOT of wire around the 
>> yard.
>> Something broke on it after a year or so, and I never re-installed it.
>>
>> 73, Charlie k3ICH

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Re: [Elecraft] 80 Meter Verticals

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Is there any truth in the theory of making the vertical radiator out of 
multiple wires such as ladder line and even adding a third wire woven through 
the ladder sections and fed on one wire?  The physical result is three parallel 
wires but electrically connected so as to form and "up, down and up again" 
element.   This supposedly raises the radiating element impedance relative to 
the fixed ground loss resistance.  The idea I'm told, is that since the ground 
resistance (loss) is fixed at whatever it is but as the actual radiating 
element impedance is raised, the antenna becomes more efficient since the 
ground loss percentage of the overall feed point impedance is lowered.  This 
impedance change happens in much the same way as a folded dipole feed is a 
higher impedance than a conventional dipole using a single wires.  
I saw this written up a few years ago as a means of increasing the overall 
efficiency of an inverted L for either 160 of 80 M. 

I had an "L" made of the smaller ladder line on 160 with only four ¼λ radials 
on the ground that seemed to work fairly well.   My plan was to install 
elevated radials, but that would have been a LOT of wire around the yard.  
Something broke on it after a year or so, and I never re-installed it.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau 
Claire
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2017 11:08 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 80 Meter Verticals

One characteristic of a "T", assuming the top wires run in opposite directions 
and are of equal length, is that radiation from the top wires is highly 
suppressed because they are fed "in phase" by the vertical section. That means 
that nearly all radiation is from the vertical section, whereas in an inverted 
"L" arrangement there is considerable radiation from the horizontal section.

Some ultimate "T" type antennas for H.F. were the very short verticals 
documented by Jerry Severt (W2FMI, SK) using umbrella-like multiple top hat 
loading with many "spokes". The QST archives have his articles.  

73 Ron AC7AC



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Re: [Elecraft] Compare the K3 and the Icom IC-7300

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

One good reason is because a "pre-owned" IC-1300 can be found for about a
half or a third of what a similar K3 will cost.
Charlie k3ICH

Bill:
Why don't you just get a bare bones used K3. Since it will be a backup rig
why go and spend the extra $$ for a new rig. By having a second K3, you
won't have to learn a new rig etc.
*73 De Mike*
*VE3YF



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Re: [Elecraft] Compare the K3 and the Icom IC-7300

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Well, my operation is similar to yours in that I don't do contests and work
DX only if I happen to stumble onto it.

That said, I think the IC-7300 would be more "fun".
I own both and while the K3S will probably out-perform the Icom, the '7300
has more bells and whistles.
I'm not the one to ask for actual performance comparison but I AM a bell &
whistles type and appreciate the fun stuff the Icom will provide.

For starters, a color display spectrum AND waterfall which is miles ahead of
ANY built-in scope display I've ever seen with the possible exception of the
one in the IC-7851.
My opinion is that it is as good as the P3 although not quite as versatile.
However, I rarely look at the P3 itself since I drive an old 15" computer
monitor for that.

73, Charlie k3ICH





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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Receiver mush

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

My email from Jim has each parameter on a separate line with double spacing
between each descriptive comment.

It looks fine on my printer.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Wilson, N6TV
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2017 2:32 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Receiver mush

On Fri, Feb 24, 2017 at 10:54 AM, Jim Brown 
wrote:

> On Thu,2/23/2017 6:32 PM, Bob Wilson, N6TV wrote:
>
>> For reference, here are my preferred AGC and other settings for 
>> contesting with a K3 and large CW pileups.
>>
>
> Bob's a great op, so I really appreciate seeing his settings. But 
> they're all run together in his email with no paragraphs or 
> punctuation, so it's very hard to read. I copied his settings into a 
> word processor and added paragraphs.


Thanks Jim,

I'm new to this reflector, so I'm puzzled by the misformatting.  I made my
post using the web interface (Nabble), carefully formatting the HTML with
the supplied editor.  It looked fine in Preview, and still looks good in the
"View this message in context" HTML link at the bottom of the email, but it
really looks awful in the plain text email.

Try this:

http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Receiver-mush-td7627277.html#a762732
3

Some may want to bookmark this direct link above

73,
Bob, N6TV
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Memory Question

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I think he might be referring to the Canadian time station CHU on 7850 kHz.
Charlie k3ICH


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2017 11:25 AM
To: Ron Manfredi ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Memory Question

What "40 meter WWV frequency" - WWV transmits on 5, 10, 15 and 20MHz.
If you want to set a memory to 10MHz WWV, you should select 30 meters, tune
to 10.000.00 and set the memory from there.

73,
W3FPR

On 2/21/2017 9:58 AM, Ron Manfredi wrote:
>
> I am trying to get my head around the memory set-up on the K3. Must be 
> missing something.
> I have set memories (and config) 0-9 as band switches, and that seems 
> to be OK; the last frequency I used on each band is stored in memory 
> when I go back there, but I put the 40 meter WWV frequency into memory 
> 11, and now my 40 meter memory (#1)  shows that frequency when I 
> select it.  How can I save a specific frequency in memory, without having
it change ?
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Re: [Elecraft] Chinese ebay amps for KX3

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Very nice amp Hajo

So now, tell me why a mid-sized radio can't have a built in 12 V to say, 50
V converter to drive some HV FETs for cleaner output specs like the Yuge
radios.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Hajo
Dezelski
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 6:04 AM
To: Richard Lawn 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Chinese ebay amps for KX3

Hello,

I use this one:
http://pa-11019.blogspot.de/2016/11/diy-kits-70w-ssb-linear-hf-power.html
and it works without any problem.

73 de

Hajo dl1sdz


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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Product suggestion

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Curiously, this suggested black box version of the P3 is exactly what I was
hoping for when the concept of a P3 was announced (leaked??)

The only time I even LOOK at the P3 screen itself is to occasionally glance
at my transmitted envelope.
I use its button controls but could do without the actual P3 screen,
assuming all the info was displayed on the external monitor.

And a big "heyull yes" for the HDMI output, maybe even 4K format too if the
processing can handle it???

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill
Frantz
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2017 1:16 AM
To: Joe Stone (KF5WBO) 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 Product suggestion

There are some really nice 12V HDMI/VGA/NTSC/PAL screens available. For
example: 
and .

I like HDMI because it carries audio and video. YMMV.

73 Bill AE6JV



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Re: [Elecraft] EFHW

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Anybody got any idea about using a ¼λ of light weight 300Ω twin lead
feed line to a ½λ vertical wire?

This might alleviate the HI Z feedpoint and effectively make an end fed
(bent) ¾ λ Zepp.

So, for 20 Meters, roughly 16 feet of 300Ω connected through a 4:1 balun
at the radio, and  33½ feet at the other end up in a tree or pole.

The down side is that it would be a single band antenna and maybe a tad
cumbersome for 40 M, requiring about 33 feet of twin-lead strung out but
probably NOT laid on the ground.
There IS such a thing as shielded twin-lead that might be OK on the ground,
but it'd be too much extra weight for a portable set-up.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Morgan Bailey, II
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2017 10:32 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] EFHW

I can vouch for the EFHW.  It works great.  I built a parallel tuned
circuit using a roller inductor and a 15-350pf cap.  I have used this
several times on 20 meters feeding a 33.5 foot vertical wire.  I use about
4 10 foot radials, which is probably overkill, and run it through a good
choke and it has been a great performer.  I have also used this box to feed
a 20 and 40 meter halfsquare.  I have ran 500 watts through both the half
square and the 20 meter EFHW with no arcing and an SWR  < 1.5 and a
reactance of 3 or 4.  No problems, works great.

The only issue I have had is that the EFHW tends to be a little bit noisier
than a traditional vertical, but I can put this antenna up and operate in
less than 10 minutes so it's worth the small amount of extra noise.

73, Morgan, NS0R
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Re: [Elecraft] EFHW

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Define "resonance".

Chas

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred
Jensen
Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2017 2:40 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] EFHW

Ummm ... A full-wavelength wire is not resonant?

73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
> Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT
> Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 12:13 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] EFHW
>
> Just a reminder, folks.
>
> If it's not a half-wave, then it's a non-resonant wire.
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power Supply Environmental/Ergonomic Issue

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Desk top PC can eat over 400 watts of power just sitting there.
When finished, I always put mine in "standby" or "sleep" mode which drops
the power usage to a few watts.
I verified these readings with one of those handy little "Kill-O-Watt" power
line devices.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Guy
Olinger K2AV
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2017 7:37 AM
To: Dave AD6A ; Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Power Supply Environmental/Ergonomic Issue

While without reference to quantities I certainly agree with the sentiment,
but to be focused on a night light level power is kind of like swatting at
gnats while pidgeons are flying around in the kitchen.

Does your attic insulation need replacing. Are all of the light fixtures in
your house converted to LED. Are your refrigerators made in the current
decade. Are all of your windows gas-filled double pane. Are your water
heater and all the hot water piping in your house insulated. The list of
things that would bury that 6 watts by a couple of orders of magnitude is
quite long.

Then there is this other thing specific to CPU based equipment. And that is
maintaining signal states relative to other equipment. They get confused
when things go cold off and aren't brought back on in a particular sequence.

It was always fun when the PC folks at SAS (which is buried in PCs) had to
take down a thousand or so functionally shared PCs for maintenance or
something. They had to be taken off in sequence and brought back in service
with a very complex and specifically ordered startup. Every now and then
that group had to work all hands on deck 48 hour weekends and took naps on
cots put out for the purpose. Those PCs were kept on their own AC mains with
a honking monster UPS that would power my house for weeks off the grid.
Power blips taking down a couple floors of PCs could put a building full of
very high paid advanced programmer types sitting on their hands for a day or
worse. They figured that out early and spent the money.

Your Elecraft gear has some related if not so killer issues on cold starts
that nevertheless result in tech support calls. Think Big E just trying to
keep the noise and confusion down on the TS lines, with a method that has
become pretty much standard practice.

Seems to me it's been a long time since TVs had batteries in them unless it
was a portable intended to be operated off mains. Paying for a service call
to replace a battery gone bad was drummed out long time back.

If you have a PC in the shack, do you do a shutdown when you leave? Or leave
it on to get OS and virus security updates and email?  Check the power draw
on that.

I'm trying to convince the wife to replace our 23 year old kitchen
refrigerator that still works perfectly.

I wish that my KPA's off state power draw was the prime offender at my house
:>).

73, Guy K2AV

On Tue, Jan 31, 2017 at 10:46 PM Dave AD6A  wrote:

> I recently added a KPA500 kit for my home station. It went together 
> just fine, and overall I love it.
>
> There is one thing about the way it works that bugs the engineer and 
> environmentalist in me.
>
>
>
> Before I bought the PA, I thought I'd be able to turn it on/off 
> entirely using the ON button on the front panel.
>
> I thought that maybe there was a supercap or backup battery that kept 
> the button's electronics alive to perform the ON button function (like 
> TV's have in them).
>
> However, it doesn't work like this. In order to turn the PA off 
> completely, you have to turn off the main power switch on the rear panel.
>
>
>
> The front panel ON button powers up the PA from what looks like a cold 
> state, however, my measurements are as follows:
>
>
>
> 1.  With the main power switch on the back panel turned OFF, the PA
> takes no power at all (0.0W)
> 2.  When you turn the main power switch on the back panel to ON, the
PA
> draws 6.9W continuously from the 120V AC power supply
> 3.  When you press the front panel ON button, the PA turns "ON" and
> takes around 13W (measured) in STBY mode
>
>
>
> My home station line up (K3s, P3, 2x SP3, KPA500, KAT500) sits on a 
> large operating desk with a shelf unit that I build above the station. 
> My computer monitors sit on the shelf above the radios.
>
> There is only just enough height clearance (about 2.5") between the 
> top of the KPA500 and the underside of the shelf to allow me to put my 
> hand over the top of the PA to reach the main power switch.
>
> It's fiddly but I can do it, it's just that it's a major inconvenience 
> not being able to turn the KPA500 truly off from the front panel.
>
>
>
> Why is the KPA500 designed this way?
>
> In all good conscience, I can't live with the PA consuming 7W all day, 
> every day - that's incredibly wasteful.
>
> I suppose I could put a more-easily-reachable external AC power switch 
> on the 

Re: [Elecraft] Random wire lengths for antennas

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

OK, How about only Two types,
 by definition:

#1 EFHW (End Fed ½λ resonant wire)
#2 NRW  (Non-Resonant wire)

Chas

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken
Talbott
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 11:14 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Random wire lengths for antennas

Indeed we do.  And not just "random" but all flavors of end-fed antennae.  I
get chastised for calling my end-fed-tuned-multi-band-trapped-wire-an
tenna (actually it is an LNR MTR) an
EFHW.  EFHW is simple to send.  Should I send EFTMBTWA?  Perhaps some smart
people on the list will recommend a succinct, unambiguous naming convention
for all flavors of end fed wire antennae.
Ken - ke4rg

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
] On Behalf Of Tom McCulloch
Sent: January 29, 2017 10:55
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Random wire
lengths for antennas

I guess we need an alternate definition
of "random" ;-)

Tom

  wb2qdg


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Re: [Elecraft] Is it just me?

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I tend to agree on not needing an antenna mounted pre-amp for 50MHz unless
you have exceedingly long feed-lines, or, very serious about EME.

I have about 85 feet of regular old RG-213 to the beam and so far, 153
countries confirmed on six along with WAS & WAC.

Conversely, I have Landwehr pre-amps at the antennas for 144/222/432.
Even though the feed-line on 432 is 7/8" Heliax, switching on the pre-amp
makes a noticeable difference.

When I had a regular K3, I didn't see a lot of difference between the
Elecraft outboard pre-amp and the ARR unit.

That said, my new K3S does not need the external pre-amp since it basically
has the equivalent built-in, which is another BIG plus for going with the
later version K3S.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Josh
Fiden
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:46 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Is it just me?

3 dB feedline loss is not a practical number. At 6m I run only hardline, 90'
of 1/2" for terrestrial and about 75' of 1-1/4" for EME. Loss is <<1dB. If
you keep your eyes open, surplus low loss feedline is not expensive. Putting
a preamp on the tower with appropriate sequencing & isolation, especially if
you run QRO, is more effort/cost/maintenance. 
Hard to justify at 6m.

73,
Josh W6XU


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Re: [Elecraft] What Two Bands would you pick for a K1?

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

This is an impossible question to answer because there are SO many variables
that are based strictly on personal preferences.
Many more on physical parameters (location, antenna availability, etc.)  and
even some on time (of day or, as in solar cycle ). 

As a start, make a list of all the possibilities or variables you can think
of and you'll see that no one can make that decision for you.

Some things you'll just have to decide for yourself.

73, Charlie k3ICH

 

> What Two Bands would you pick for a K1?
> My first thoughts are 40 and 15, but I'm curious as to what others would
pick.



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Re: [Elecraft] K3: past chirp report

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

No, only when you're sending Novice call.

Charlie k3ICH (ex KN3ICH)

I was so proud of that call, I bought a little call letter pin and wore it
in high school.
A non-techno buddy called me "Kenthrich". HI

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Barry
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2017 8:10 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: past chirp report

Does the radio automatically go into chirp mode if it detects operation from
Cuba?
Barry W2UP



--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-past-chirp-report-tp7625892p7625920.
html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Dimmable LED desk lamp

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Component count wise, a voltage regulator and a current regulator take about
the same number of components.

Controlling the  (linear) current to an LED is an easy way to vary the
brightness, but the useable range is limited.

You can test this with a typical voltage & current regulated bench supply.

Set the output voltage at say 3 to 4 volts with the current limit set at 1
to 2 mA.  The long lead of the LED is positive. Then adjust the current up
to the rating of the particular LED you're testing.
50 mA is fairly high, so 20 mA might be a safe max amount, but you will see
a definite variation in light output.

Typically,  component, or panel type LEDs are monochrome.  That is, they
emit a very narrow frequency band of light.
A lamp designed for home use must however, emit a much wider band such that
it's illumination quality covers about the same range as an incandescent
filament light bulb.   The quality of this light as well as the central band
of energy is defined as a temperature in degrees*  Kelvin.  A "warm" light
will typically emit light in the 2500 to 2700 K range, where-as the higher
temperatures around 6500K are much "bluer", or more like daylight.

The actual light is emitted NOT by the LED itself, but a phosphor coating
inside the LED which is excited by the LED's output.   Dirt-cheap hand
flashlights can approach a wider band of light by combining a yellow and a
blue LED in the same package.  I may be wrong, but I believe panel type
"white light" LED's use a combination of color LED's much like a TV screen
to generate the white light.

One characteristic of an LED is that it shuts off instantly when the current
through it is cut off.  With a phosphor driven LED there will be a
noticeable time lag as the light output fades out on power down.

73, Charlie k3ICH

*A particularly fascinating scientific concept is that any substance, when
heated to the same (incandescent) color will be the same temperature.  It
doesn't matter if it's charcoal, a wire filament, or a feather, if it glows
the same color, they'll all be the same temperature.  Degrees Kelvin is just
a convenient way of defining that temperature, or color.  The item will go
from red through orange, to yellow as the temperature rises.   This was the
at one time, the lab standard for measuring high temperatures.  A filament,
placed in the path of a lens was heated via an external calibrated current
source.  When the visible wire seemed to disappear through the scope when it
was the same color as the observed item, the temperature was read off the
current dial.   Obviously, this was limited to the temperature range where
the filament glowed.




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Re: [Elecraft] So glad I asked

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Don's right on.

Don't act like a bunch of snowflakes.

So WHAT if some knucklehead posts a "flame" reply to your question.
It will not affect you at all and makes the poster look like the jerk.

In reality, the flamer is the one who is the looser in it all.
Jeeze, I've stuck my foot in my mouth any number of times and been dumped on
for it, but didn't affect the taste of my egg-nog one little bit.

Charlie k3ICH








-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2017 7:06 PM
To: Bill ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] So glad I asked

Bill,

The only questions that are "dumb" are those that are not asked.

Any on-reflector backlash will be handled by Eric (the only moderator) and
any off-reflector hate mail should be reported to Eric directly.
Read the list rules and past posts by Eric if you doubt my word about that.

This appears to be one of the most helpful email reflectors in existence, so
if you have a question, do not hesitate to ask it, even off-topic posts, but
related to ham radio are acceptable as long as it does not get "out of hand"
with a long string of posts.  You may get a variety of answers, some more
informative than others, but on this list, personal attacks will not be
tolerated - either by most of the list members, but more importantly by the
moderator.
If you receive a "nasty" response, do not attack back on the list, but turn
it over to Eric for action.

73,
Don W3FPR



On 1/1/2017 8:34 AM, Bill wrote:
> When I posted about the gain levels of amplifiers etc. I was worried 
> about a back lash and hate mail - I nearly did not post my 
> statement/question. So glad I did! What a treasure trove of 
> information resulted. Really makes belonging to this group well worth 
> while! Whether you are a QRPer, DXer, QROer, or just an arm chair op - 
> there is sure something here for everyone.
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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifiers in general

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Using your same logic, why run more than a couple watts output? 

 It can easily be heard around the world if conditions are right.

Anything more is a waste of power AND money.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2016 10:01 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Amplifiers in general

I have always been under the impression the doubling of output power will
result in a power gain of 3 db. And, that 3 db gain is the least signal
increase noticeable at the receiving point. KPA500 outputs 500 Watts - 1000
Watts would give an output gain of 3 db (over the KPA500) and 1500 Watts a
little over 4 db gain. That being my understanding - why would I want to
spend a box full of dollars for more power than my
KPA500 provides? Or, is my understanding flawed?

FWIW, I have run all kinds of amps in my nearly 60 years of being the on the
air and have found that Watts are Watts, regardless of how you generate them
(fancy, cheap, junk, or solid gold).

Everyone have a super HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!

Bill W2BLC K-Line (medium power HF)

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Re: [Elecraft] Please do a KPA1500

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I can tell you, I have a lot of 50 MHz DX in the log that a home brew 4CX-1000A 
made possible.

Unlike HF DXing, some six meter ES & F2 openings last only a few minutes, and 
the early bird + big amp, gets the proverbial worm.

I am definitely NOT opposed to running high power.

My only piece of logic is that if you're going to go to the trouble and expense 
of running an amp, go for legal limit.
Agreed, SS legal limit amps are pricey, but a legal limit tube amp is much 
easier on the radio budget.

Yeah, I know 500 watts will help, but as we all agree, 1500 will do it when 500 
won't.

73, Charlie k3ICH

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of N2TK, Tony
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 6:39 PM
To: 'Mike va3mw' 
Cc: 'Elecraft Mail List' 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Please do a KPA1500

During mediocre conditions there has been more than once on 80 and 160M the DX 
could not quite get my call correct with the KPA500. Once the Acom 2000A timed 
out they had no trouble copying my call. Most of the time I operate the K3 
barefoot. When I need more oomph I turn on the KPA500. If conditions are not 
good I turn on the Acom. There are times the difference between 600W and 1500W 
can make the difference between a QSO and no QSO. It would be nice to have a 
1500W S-S amp in the basement alongside the KPA500. Any amp I would buy needs 
to be able to be controlled remotely like the KPA500 and the Acom. The only 
real advantage to me switching from a tube to a solid-state amp would be the 
timeout thing. During a contest and when a DXpedition is going, then I just 
leave the Acom on. No big thing letting it sit there idling.

73 and HNY
N2TK, Tony 



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Re: [Elecraft] Please do a KPA1500

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

If you're being heard at 20 dB over S9 when running one kilowatt, you'll still 
be S5 at 100 milliwatts!

That said, if you're gonna run an amp, why not go for max legal?

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dean L
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 1:28 PM
To: Elecraft Mail List 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Please do a KPA1500

Fred
500w 》1500 w -It's less than an S-unit increase in signal and makes your 
power meter spin fast.
Just putting it into perspective ...I'm sure you already knew this.
Happy New Year/73
Dean K2WW



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Re: [Elecraft] K3s - 80W on 160 - Resolved

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

A possible solution is to use the heaviest wire you want from the power
supply to a few inches away from the radio with a very short pair of 12 ga.
wires from the APP to the heavy wire. 
 Shrink tubing can make an ugly connection look passable.  It's BEHIND the
radio anyway!

73, Charlie k3ICH


Subject: [Elecraft] K3s - 80W on 160 - Resolved

At my station I use a large 70 amp Astron power supply which sits on the
floor.  Several month ago, while trouble shooting another issue, I
discovered that the voltage drop in my 8' cables was significant. So rather
than crank up the voltage I switched to 8ga and now at full transmit wattage
the K3S sees 13.5v. The tough part was squeezing 8ga wire into a PowerPole
connector that is made for 10ga max. For a shorter lead, like I use when I
travel to the Caribbean, 10ga has a minimal voltage drop.

John KK9A



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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] incredible hum from PA

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

"No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However, a large
number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced !"

Yeah, but you have to realize, electrons LIKE to run around madly.  They
LIVE for the opportunity to be driven by that strange (to them)
electromotive force, regardless of whether it's in one direction (DC) or
back and forth (AC), just as horses luv to run.
They live basically a very nomadic life, jumping from one nucleus to
another. They get sluggish if not driven regularly.  This is why old stock
vacuum tubes can fail while just sitting on the shelf.
Electrons also appreciate the applause as horses do when they perform, but
seldom get to enjoy it.  So, when you make them run, at least provide a
little noise so that know they're well liked.  Hmmm, maybe THAT"s why the
transformer hums?

More to the point of the subject, I wonder if it would have been possible to
use a brass bolt or maybe even nylon mounting hardware for the big toroid?
Probably not worth the effort is a simple re-tightening can fix it. 
( You'll just have to provide some outside method of showing your
appreciation to the electrons for their efforts.)

73 Charlie k3ICH



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - static discharge

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Yes, but they typically DO use a three wire (case at ground) power cord.
I make it a point to touch the metal side of the computer before anything
else.

A couple other recommendations would be to buy a cheap digital humidity
indicator and put one or more humidifiers* around the house.

I'm not sure what is the ideal humidity level, but our house here in
Virginia it would get down under 30% which results in lots of sparks AND
split fingers.

I try to get it nearer to 50% which seems to help both those conditions.

73, Charlie k3ICH

*I don't recommend  the old fashioned steam units which simply have two
electrodes immersed in water such that the steam is created from the
electric current between them.  Obviously, pure laboratory H2O won't work,
but a pinch of salt in the water makes the house lights dim (HI), neither of
which is a desirable situation.   I don't like the ultrasonic units either
because for some reason, they caused a lot of dust to be deposited on our
flat screen TV.  My opinion is that the best types are the ones that use a
wick element and fan to put moisture in the air.

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2016 8:50 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - static discharge

To prevent static discharge problems with my computers, I have a bare ground
wire attached to the side of my desk. I touch it when I first sit down. In
the winter, it does draw a spark. Most computers are not well designed or
protected.

That said, I had no idea the K3 was susceptible to ESD - via the K-Pod.

Bill W2BLC K-Line
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[Elecraft] KX2 beta to production ??

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Any projection as to when the latest Beta software that adds AM to the KX2
will become the standard production version?

73, Charlie k3ICH





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Re: [Elecraft] Paper Tape CW sender

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Are y'all talking about an "Instructo-Graph" (if I spelled it correctly)?

Got a couple of those in the basement along with some Int'l Morse & American
Morse paper tapes.

If I remember correctly, one is a spring driven, wind up and the other has
an AC motor drive.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of George
Kidder
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2016 5:57 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Paper Tape CW sender

Interesting!  I used to own one of these (the single-hole variety) - it
never worked too well, but then I was no expert at it.  Don't remember where
I got rid of it - probably at a hamfest for a song.

I took my extra code exam with a portable version of this machine, run by
the FCC examiner.  It's a long story which I won't repeat, but it involved a
tape machine malfunction!  Cranky beasts.

George, W3HBM (age 82)



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Re: [Elecraft] Magnetic Loop question

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Horizontally mounted No
Vertically mounted.Yes, in the plane of the loop (off the ends NOT
perpendicular to the loop.)

Chas
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Phillip Lontz
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2016 9:43 PM
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] Magnetic Loop question

Are mag loop antennas very directional?
Are mag loop antennas a little directional?
Are mag loops kinda directional?
So which one?
Phil
K5SSR

What me worry?

> On Oct 19, 2016, at 9:42 AM, Richard Fjeld  wrote:
> 
> This is a follow up to recent post from someone in California who 
> noticed less output when operating in below freezing temps.
> 
> In the thread that followed, I mentioned the relationship of cold to 
> gain and biasing to prevent thermal runaway.  My last ARRL Handbook is 
> a 2009 edition and 'Thermal Runaway' can be found in the index.  You 
> may find it interesting.
> 
> Dick, n0ce
> 
> --
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S QST Article

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Now, I may be miss-interpreting what's happening here, but I feel is that
this whole thing is being taken "slightly" wrong by several people.

VW purposely faked the test to meet a gov't spec.

However, Elecraft sold a radio that DID meet their published specifications
for transmit IMD which are typical of other competitive radios on the
market.

THEN, they figured out a way to make an improvement, which makes them BETTER
than the typical radio for this parameter.
AND, they're willing to make the mod for free IF you handle shipping.

Believe me, the "big-three" would simply come out with a Mark II, or "A"
model and leave it at that.

And, every time I hear that they did in fact do just that, I'm that much
gladder (if that's a word) I have Elecraft's in the shack.

If I'm wrong, I'm sure I'll hear about. At which point I would offer a
retraction.
I have been known to stick my foot in my mouth on more than one occasion.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Rogers
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2016 4:42 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S QST Article

I have been a loyal Elecrafter for many years, and this seems to be somewhat
similar to the VW diesel problem.

Elecraft has sold me a radio specifying it to be in compliance with
specifications of IMD. Now you are telling me that I must bear the burden of
time and expense to bring the device you specified and guaranteed to be in
compliance, into compliance.

I built mine from a kit, so Elecraft you send me the necessary boards,
modules, whatever to bring my K3s into compliance and I will return to you
the defective boards,, modules, whatever. Then you can rework the defective
boards for the next exchange. I will spend the time and effort of
disassembly and re-assembly.

Jim, W4ATK

K-line, K2



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Re: [Elecraft] let's not drag apostrophes into this

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I want to formally apologize for bringing up this thread which appears to be
going on forever.
Due to an oversight on my part, it was completely unnecessary anyway.
If you want to comment further send your "slings & arrows" directly to me
and stop subjecting everyone to a truly "OT" thread.

Thanks, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Charles Yahrling
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2016 6:04 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] lets not drag apostrophes into this

"Due to the odd way Elecraft chose to label the new K3s, I would request
that when referring to multiple radios, use the terms K3's or K3s' rather
than simply K3s which implies a single radio."

Please. let us not fall into the improper use of the apostrophe that is so
common these days. One example above is correct for he possessive, as in
 " the K3's output on 10M is"   For plural, "we both brought our K3s to
Field Day."

The term K3s' (or K3S') has no valid meaning, grammatically speaking.
You'd need to write "the K3S's output on 10M is" for the possessive.
And probably " we both brought our new K3Ses to Field Day"

One we get that fixed, we can work on eliminating "Comprised of"

;^}
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S QST Article

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Or, we could all run 32S-3 transmitters and listen on our whiz/bang SDR.  
So far, they're about the cleanest 100 watt transmitter reasonably
available.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Kevin
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2016 8:14 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S QST Article

The cause for this is the use of 12V finals. It would be much improved by
moving to 24 or 50V finals.

Move the /K3s II/ to 50V finals, say a pair of MRF 150's, limited to 150 or
200W max output. Design/Sell an outboard 50V switching supply capable of
15-20A continuous current, with a 10A 12V switcher built in for the rest of
the radio.


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Re: [Elecraft] R: K3s vs K3's

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Due to the odd way Elecraft chose to label the new K3s, I would request that
when referring to multiple radios, use the terms K3's or K3s' rather than
simply K3s which implies a single radio.

73, Charlie k3ICH



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Re: [Elecraft] R: Re: K3S - K3 Noise Blanker and Noise Reductor

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Great advice Don.  (Nice website too.)

One little point I would add to comments about listening to whether you hear
band noise when connecting that antenna,  is that if you're performing this
test at VHF, or even the high end of the HF,  the actual
connection/disconnection of the antenna should be from the back panel of the
radio, not via an antenna switch with some undetermined length of coax.
What can happen is that sometimes simply connecting an open length of coax
to the antenna input may change the audible noise coming from the receiver's
speaker.   I haven't tried this with my K3s, but I've observed this effect
with other *  radios, especially ones which depend on good input impedance
matching for their antenna inputs.

This effect is related to the length of the coax relative to the frequency
you're listening to, so I doubt if it would be noticeable below, say 10 or
15 M with a few feet of line to an antenna switch.

73, Charlie k3ICH

*I specialize in the restoration of the Collins 51S-1 receivers, and have
noticed this effect with them.  The 51S-1's sensitivity is quite susceptible
to degrading from an unmatched antenna.   During an alignment,  I see a
small, but noticeable difference in the antenna input coil adjustments from
using a matched 50 Ω signal generator versus leaving the antenna input open
and relying on the calibrator signal for peaking.


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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I'm curious as to exactly why a "junk" connector supposedly has so much more
loss than a "good" connector?

They're probably both (nickel, silver ???) plated brass with a dielectric
insulator usually Teflon,  phenolic or ??

Is it the plating, the insulator, the fit of the threads, the
solder-ability, or what, that makes the lossy?

I can understand it if the dimensions are way off or they don't thread on
properly, but that should be obvious in the installation process.

Not trying to start a fight or insult anyone.


73, Charlie k3ICH

 




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Re: [Elecraft] Technology Change

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I think you mean 1625...

Chas

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Morgan
Bailey
Sent: Friday, September 23, 2016 8:42 AM
To: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Technology Change

Whats this 6146 stuff...what happened to the 1628 or the 807...and not to
mention the trusty 813 and for the big power ...304TL...whoot bring on them
big filament transformers...

On Thu, Sep 22, 2016 at 10:45 PM, Jim Brown 
wrote:

> On Thu,9/22/2016 8:24 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
>
>> Two thoughts on this . . .
>>
>
> Great observations, Ted! And one more thought, articulated in a novel 
> by Thomas Wolfe, published in 1940. The title is "You Can't Go Home
Again."
> The meaning of the title is that we can't go back to where we grew up 
> (or where we had "a life") and expect it to be the same, because 
> things change in many ways. People we knew then have moved on, they 
> have grown/changed/evolved, the things that made up the life of that 
> place and of those people are different, often VERY different. So we 
> can go back to the same physical place, but we can't go back to the life
we remembered.
> And it's not that our memory is faulty, but rather that the world has 
> moved on.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT KX3 wannabe in photo of Qct QST

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Maybe they should have saved the pic for the April issue

Chas

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill
Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2016 9:10 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT KX3 wannabe in photo of Qct QST

Sure - mistakes happen. That is why you have proof readers - or, in this
case, should have proof readers.

Bill W2BLC K-Line
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 audio quality

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I have yet to use any internal SS radio's speaker except for an occasional test 
or possibly a portable set-up.  
They may as well leave it out as far as I'm concerned.  NONE of them come 
anywhere close to the sound quality I get from simple outboard speakers.
(Note, this does NOT include the over-priced, cheap speaker in a metal box 
often sold as a matching "accessory" by the big-three.)
Personally, I find the recovered audio from my K3s, feeding two little computer 
speakers to be the best of any modern radio I have ever used.
That said, it's hard to beat the audio from an old boatanchor radio with 
push-pull 6V6's driving a big 12" speaker cabinet.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jerry 
Moore
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2016 9:16 AM
To: 'Kevin' ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 audio quality

In my case the issue was low frequency harmonics in the case/assembly causing 
the audio to distort. Removing the speaker from the case resulted in very 
excellent audio from the built in speaker. I re-installed it and use an 
external speaker now (on the rare occasion I need/want external sound). 
It's largely a non-issue as I was surprised to find I operate most often with 
headphones so I can hear better.



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Re: [Elecraft] High End Operators?

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I always wondered why there even WAS an 11 M ham band.  Surely the
propagation characteristics were no different for 10 M as to warrant it's
use.
Plus, 10 is wide enough (1.7 MHz) for just about any mode.

I was even more puzzled why it was given to the Citizen's band class since
it is obviously affected each year by sporadic E skip.
'Skip" operation violated the original intent of CB, so why choose a band
that's famous for it.

They HAD a perfectly good "CB" band up above 400 MHz, which would eliminate
almost any possibility of other than line-of-sight communications.

I even have a couple Vocaline transceivers on that band.  They worked, but
if you look inside, you'd wonder how they could with so few parts.

What's then MOST puzzling is the operation on CB channel 6, or 27.025 MHz.
There are stations on there running in excess of 50 kW !  10 kW, is
considered "low" power.
All for the express purpose of winning the "shoot-out" to see who's the
loudest.

Just remember, if you're being heard at 20 dB over S-9 when running a
kilowatt, you'll still be S-5 at 100 milliwatts .

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Guy
Olinger K2AV
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2016 4:37 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] High End Operators?

Sigh...

"High End Operators" is an obsolete citizens band radio (CB) pejorative term
I have not heard in a very long time, almost forty years.

The term came about after the 1977 CB expansion from 23 channels to 40. The
first 23 channels allotted, except for channel 23, came from the 1958
conversion of the 11 meter ham band to CB use. Until 1977 all the CB
equipment stopped with channel 23.

"High End Users" became a pejorative for a while after FCC opened channels
24-40 when users would call and make contact on channel 19, and then
transfer to channel 24 and above, deliberately showing up owners of older
equipment who could not follow or listen.

That gradually went away as the newer 40 channel CB sets became common.
Many retained their older 23 channel sets and left them permanently on
channel 19 to listen for emergency road calls, while using the 40 channel
sets for everything else.

I don't know why anyone would want to use (or reuse) that term, "high end
users". Repurposed bullsh*t is still bullsh*t and still stinks the same.

Back in the 70's before modern cell phones, I knew a lot of hams who put CB
sets in their wive's cars, so they would not get stranded without
communication.

My boat anchor Collins 75A3 receiver and Johnson Ranger transmitter have 11
meters on them. Before 1958, 11 meters was shunned by hams in favor of 10
meters. Little surprise the FCC repurposed it.

73, Guy K2AV
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Re: [Elecraft] OT:. "High end operator"

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I think it means the "high-end" of the band, such as the upper channels,
38, 39 & 40.

Chas

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken G
Kopp
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2016 11:48 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] OT:. "High end operator"

Someone please define "high end operator".

Sounds like some form of snobbism worming it's way into the slang of the
hobby  (;-)

73

K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] New KX2 beta firmware release adds AM mode TX/RX

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I'll wait for the official release.
Thanks for that added feature.

73, Charlie k3ICH


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe Lynch
Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 9:05 PM
To: Wayne Burdick 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New KX2 beta firmware release adds AM mode TX/RX

Thank you, Wayne, for adding a cool feature to an already great radio.
73,
Joe Lynch, N6CL 

On Wednesday, August 31, 2016 5:31 PM, Wayne Burdick  
wrote:
 

 Hi all,

KX2 beta firmware rev. 2.68 is now available. This revision adds AM mode 
transmit and receive. Please see our KX2 software page:

http://www.elecraft.com/KX2/kx2_software.htm

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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[Elecraft] PRO 7 vs RadioSport RS-60

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Anyone have a comparison between the Heil  PRO 7  and the Radio Sport RS-60
headsets with mic.

when used with either the K3 or KX2/3?

 

73, Charlie k3ICH

 

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Bad analogy.  The 2 X 4 inch measurement of a piece of construction lumber
is before planning, or rough cut lumber.  The finished dimension is more
like 3½ X 1½ which hasn't changed.
 However, you might be right on the speaker wire.  Maybe some "secret" wire
formula that is equivalent to 10 gauge. (HI)

Sorta like the ½ gallon of Ice cream that went from 1¾ to 1½ quarts. 
Although they don't still CALL it a half gallon.  It just looks the same.

If you paid though pay-pal, just complain.  They side with the buyer 99% of
the time, so you'll more than likely, get you money back.

73, Charlie k3ICH





-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of rick
jones via Elecraft
Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2016 11:21 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

I just bought 20' of what was supposed to be 10GA zip wire from that auction
site. It is clearly marked as "Audiopipe 10 Gauge speaker cable". The
conductor is actually 12GA at best. Is this becoming common practice or is
wire going the way of 2X4 lumber? Suggestions for a reputable source of true
10GA PTFE zip wire for K3 power?
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Re: [Elecraft] ½ λ dipoles

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I'm curious as to when the concept of a ½ λ dipole became the norm?

In other words, the idea of the current distribution as exists on a dipole.

Early pictures of typical ham antennas looked more like a set of parallel
clothesline wires.

What I gather from reading early articles,  it seemed that the more wire you
had in the air, the better it would "capture" (and radiate) the signals.

Feel free to reply directly if you don't want to clutter the forum.

(k3ich at arrl dot net)

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil
Wheeler
Sent: Friday, August 05, 2016 10:58 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT:. G5RV's

Alas, the poor G5RV.  Now that its been flogged to death, maybe we need a
new target -- say the Windom?

Phil W7OX

On 8/4/16 10:22 PM, Wes Stewart wrote:
> The tuner loss also depends on how it is adjusted. For example the 
> very popular high-pass Tee with three adjustable elements has an 
> infinite number of possible combinations that will effect a match on 
> the same load Z.  One of them is the lowest loss solution, all of the 
> others aren't.
>
> As I said earlier, in a letter to Dean Straw dated February 2, 1994 I 
> offered an example where the SPC tuner, then current in the handbooks, 
> could be used to match an impedance of 4.34 +j46 to 50 ohm. (I forget 
> where this came from but it was a real possibility)  I assumed Qc = 
> 1000 and Ql = 300 (generous). I used Touchstone to calculate the 
> minimum loss and maximum loss solutions The best case was 1.6 dB and 
> the worst case was 7.8 dB.
>
> With lower Q components, Qc = 500, Ql =200, the losses were 2.4 to 9.5 
> dB!
>
> Wes  N7WS
>
>
>  On 8/4/2016 2:00 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:
>> > It's a pity that too many newcomers, as well
>> as many oldsters, are
>> > enamored by this piece of wire.
>>
>> The G4RV is definitely a compromise antenna.  
>> However its advantage is that is has low-enough SWR to be easily 
>> matched by most tuners on a number of bands.
>>
>> > ... the horrific losses that could be
>> incurred even
>> > with high quality tuners,
>>
>> It's true that tuner losses are the
>> manufacturers' dirty little secret. Loss is rarely specified, partly 
>> because it can be pretty bad, and partly because it is hard to 
>> measure, but also because it is not constant - it depends on the 
>> particular impedance being matched.
>>
>> One exception is the old Drake tuners.  Their Pi-L topology makes the 
>> loss almost independent of the load impedance.  If you can get it to 
>> match, you know that almost all the power is going into the feed 
>> line. For example, the
>> MN-2700 that I designed when I was at Drake was specified at 0.5 dB 
>> maximum insertion loss and I did a lot of testing and tweaking to 
>> achieve that on all bands.
>>
>> Alan N1AL

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Re: [Elecraft] k3s radio kit

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I would suggest a JIS screwdriver set.  I found they fit better than
standard Phillips.  They are more like a Fearson drive than Phillips.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Friday, August 05, 2016 10:52 AM
To: Wayne Michael ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k3s radio kit

Read the assembly instructions and follow them exactly as written.
Get a new #1 Phillips screwdriver to use.
If you are not accustomed to judging screw lengths accurately, use a ruler
to measure them.
In other words, just follow the instructions.
If you have problems understanding the instructions, ask here on the
reflector and you will receive assistance.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/5/2016 10:05 AM, Wayne Michael wrote:
> Any advise for a putting a K3S together?
> I just ordered it.
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] The 1500 watt amp

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Every house I know of in the US has a split phase 120/240 line in, usually
at a minimum of 60 Amps and typically 200 Amps.

You are correct in that the 240 V only goes to specific items, such as the
water pump, stove, HW heater, clothes dryer etc.
One has to purposely wire the "radio-room" for 240V.

I have 400 Amp service, mainly to force the local power company to use
larger feeders to my distribution panel.

I am all electric (if you don't count the 5 chords of wood we cut and burn
each year) and even on an electric co-op out here in the "sticks", we're
paying under 14¢ per kW-hr.
It'll stay there if we can keep the coal industry afloat.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Graham
Kimbell
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2016 4:09 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] The 1500 watt amp

Watching this from afar, I notice the irony - US has 1500W limit but not
enough (120v) mains power to use it, whilst the UK has loads of mains power
(240v at 13A) but only a 400W limit.

Graham


> The KPA500 can be run from any decent 120VAC mains outlet as long as there
aren't too many other loads on it. But going above that power level forces
the Ham to have 240 VAC in the shack, something many of us do not normally
plan for. That can be a very expensive addition to the cost of the amp,
especially if the mains panel is not expandable as needed.
>
>


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Re: [Elecraft] The 1500 watt amp

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

We should probably carry that logic over to many facets of life:

No automobile needs to go over 45 MPH or need more than 25 HP.
AC and iced drinks should be outlawed.
Also, the sugar content needs to be about 1/10th of what it is currently in
ALL foods.
Houses should be limited to 1000 Sq. Ft.
87 Octane gasoline is plenty.
Jack Daniels should be limited to 70 proof.
One six-pack of Bud per month.

Oh wait, strike those last two.

I wasn't thinking.


73, Charlie k3ICH







-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jerry
Moore
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2016 9:51 AM
To: 'Guy Olinger K2AV' ; 'Elecraft Reflector'

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] The 1500 watt amp

I don't see the point of having a large power amp. It doesn't help receive.
My whole Ham life I've been told to put the money into antennas, better
feedlines, and a better receiver.
If you are a skilled operator then you'll make the contact if band
conditions permit. 
Doing the math I really don't see why anyone "needs" an amp past
500-600watts. Maybe on 60/160? 
If a QRP /Low power station can make the contact but you can't then maybe
you need to ask for help getting your station optimized a bit better. 
Just my view. 
I used to run an SB220 and loved it when I made the contact. I later came to
resent Ops I heard running power just to get over the pileup. 
I sold the Amp and don't regret it for a minute. If I were to get another
amp the math shows 500w to be the sweet spot, however, I have so much
opportunity to improve feedlines and antenna it doesn't makes sense to run
power at this time.

Just my view. 
Jer

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Re: [Elecraft] My New Mobile

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

The many beacons below 50.1 will tell you if the band is open,  and to
where.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mel
Farrer via Elecraft
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2016 3:22 PM
To: Rose 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My New Mobile

CALL, MOVE OFF...
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Rose 
 To: 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
 Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2016 11:57 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My New Mobile
   
Anyone I hear making QSO's on the calling frequency goes on my "don't ever
work" list posted on my desk, and will miss my somewhat rare grid square.
(DN36) (;-)

73

K0PP

On Sun, Jul 31, 2016 at 12:16 PM, Jim Brown 
wrote:

> On Sun,7/31/2016 11:00 AM, Edward R Cole wrote:
>
>> I have the 2M module so can operate 6m/2m SSB for roving/mobile.
>>
>
> Do you work CW? It's a LOT more effective under the marginal 
> conditions that often exist on 6M/2M. Saw you spotted yesterday on the 
> calling frequency. That's a great place to monitor, but a terrible 
> place to operate. The good ops move off the calling frequency when the
band is open.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 2m external amplifier

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

My TE Systems 1452G amp puts out a tad under 400 watts with 4 watts drive.
AND it is biased for linear service.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Josh
Fiden
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2016 3:34 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 2m external amplifier

I've been very happy with a vintage RF Concepts 2-417. It's rated for 170W
out with 45W drive. However, I used it very successfully driving it from my
TH-F6A 5W HT. I never measured the output with that drive, but it was
clearly considerable. Also, the preamp is quite good. These are readily
available used, best guess is price around $175-250 for one in good condx.

73,
Josh W6XU


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Re: [Elecraft] Strange Interference

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Glad you found the source.

However, last year I heard some strange "weeblie" signals that swept across
the 10 meter band.  They would typically start up some point and sweep from
low to high in frequency.  They were quite noticeable on the VGA/P3  or the
Flex screen.  They sounded like they were being frequency modulated at a
slow, maybe 10Hz rate over about a 100 Hz span, while the whole signal took
anywhere from a split second to about 10 seconds to travel a few hundred
kilohertz.  The fast ones would leave a trail of dashes, depending on the P3
sweep speed and the slow movement seemed to get a bit faster as it moved.
I'd see a couple every 10 to 20 seconds and they were definitely coming in
the antenna.  The source was not local, because I could switch to an indoor
loop and they were barely readable.

I haven't looked recently since ten has not been too active.  I'll park the
K3 up on ten and check the scope every so often to see if they still show
up.

I DO have a similar RFI type signal coming from my PWM solar charger, but
these weeblies are different.

73, Charlie k3ICH


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Terry
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2016 2:44 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Strange Interference

Thanks to all for the advice. I found the issue. It is my Powerwerx SS30DV
Switching supply. I thought this supply was a good one to not create
problems like I am having. Not sure if it is fixable or If I need to send it
in for repair. 

Very 73,

Terry
N7TB
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Linear PS Recommendations

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Boy, talk about LONNNGG life.  The µ723 regulator IC has been around almost 
as long as 811-A's !
Wasn't it introduced by Fairchild in the 60's?
I wonder how many ( XX thousands ??) of power supplies have been designed 
around it.

73, Charlie k3ICH


 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Myron 
Schaffer
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2016 8:42 AM
To: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Linear PS Recommendations

Jim and Clay,

It used to be that waythe RS linear models could not tolerate external 
voltage present when unpowered, not anymore. Astron has incorporated 
back-voltage protection through incorporation of some diodes installed in key 
locations to prevent this.

You can verify if your supply has this modification by looking at the circuit 
board and see a 1N4001 type diode soldered across 2-pins (can't remember which 
ones off the top of my head) of the IC voltage regulator LM-723 chip and others 
hung in various places to protect the pass transistor as well. Usually soldered 
to the solder side of the circuit board so they are easy to spot. I can't 
remember is there were some small capacitors added as well.

Any newer (like newer than 1990) linear Astron will have these installed.

Myron WVØH
Printed on Recycled Data

> On Jul 21, 2016, at 12:10 AM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
>> On Wed,7/20/2016 10:52 PM, Bob Nielsen wrote:
>> you probably don't need much more than 20 amp capability. I have used an 
>> Astron RS-20 for the past 35 years but I would probably go for the RS-35 or 
>> RS-50 if I was getting another one.
> 
> That depends on what gear other than the radio that you want to run from it, 
> and whether it is charging a battery which runs the gear or the supply is 
> running the gear directly. It's easy for other 12V gear in a shack to add 
> several amps to the load, and the fancier the shack gets, the more that 
> increases. Clay said he wanted to run all his gear from it (but not the KPA, 
> I am assuming, because it's 120/240V powered). The gear I saw included 
> computer monitors, a K-Line, and some accessories. Perhaps there will someday 
> be antenna relays. And so on.
> 
> Also, the numbers in Astron's model names do NOT correspond to steady state 
> load capacity. It's important to study the data sheets. They are generally 
> well regarded for reliability, but every one I've opened had a bonding 
> problem which is important, but easy to fix.
> 
> Another important characteristic of Astron supplies is that their output 
> regulator circuit is likely to fry if connected to charge a battery but the 
> supply is not powered. Like in a power failure. Ask me how I know this. :) 
> Astron sells a module to place between the supply and the battery to solve 
> this problem.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Looking for feedback on K3DVR

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Who exactly IS K3DVR ?

Wasn't he the guy who invented the famous "Downspout Vertical Radiator" antenna 
and changed his call when his company went public? 

There's no listing on QRZ.COM for that call, so I assume he's an SK now.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fabio 
IZ4AFW / NZ1W
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2016 3:50 AM
Cc: elecraft 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Looking for feedback on K3DVR

Hi guys,
   I have my KDVR installed since my first K3.
My activity is 99.5% contesting... my best spent bucks definitely, in 
particular if you're going to be low power.
pin...@erols.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Help sell me on the K3S

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Whoa, there are plenty good  "pre-owned" radios out there for WAY under $2k.

An old Swan 350 should run about $150 - $200.  Sure, there's not much in the 
way of Bells & whistles, but the guy on the other end won't know you're not 
running a rig that costs more than a good used car!

Same for a TS-520/530 or TS-820/830, and others in the under $500 range.

If you look at it strictly from a $ & ¢ aspect, buying a 10 to 15 year old 
radio can probably be sold a year later for what you paid for it.

If you want to go a tad newer, TS-480's are going for under $700.

Some good possibilities are:  TS-570, TS-450, IC-746, IC-756, FT-1000MP, 
TS-590, and many others.

The point is, you won’t throw away a starter radio resulting in a 100% loss.  

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of a45wg
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2016 2:34 PM
To: Ian 
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Help sell me on the K3S

No !!! Bad sales pitch - How about spend $3k now - or spend $2k now and $3k 
(when you realised you made a mistake) later….. see spending $3k now much much 
cheaper…..

73, tim - A45WG


> On 17 Jul 2016, at 22:24, Ian  wrote:
> 
> Consider getting a lesser radio first and using that for a while.  
> Then you'll really appreciate what a step (leap) up the K3S is over other 
> radios.
> 
> 73, Ian N8IK
> 
> On Sun, Jul 17, 2016 at 1:58 PM, Jim Brown 
> wrote:
> 
>> On Sun,7/17/2016 10:02 AM, Reuben Popp wrote:
>> 
>>> I*will*  get my ticket, it's just a matter of when, so if I'm in for 
>>> a penny on a receiver,
>>> 
>> 
>> So work on that FIRST. At this point, the cart is well before the horse.
>> Hopefully, while studying for your license, you'll learn more about 
>> radio, and be able to make a more informed decision. AND you'll have the 
>> license.
>> 
>> 73, Jim K9YC
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] A955 = λ

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Instead of typing out "lambda", just hold down the "ALT" key and type 955
= λ

Same for :
Alt 171 = ½
Alt 172 = ¼
Alt 0216 = Ø
Alt 227 = π
Alt 234 = Ω

There's lots more where those came from...

73, Charlie k3ICH

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Hank
Garretson
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2016 12:38 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

Counterpoises are good.

Also very helpful is to adjust total length of flattop and feedline to be
an odd multiple of Lambda/4 for the bands of interest. This keeps max RF
voltage peaks out of the shack. Not always convenient to do if you want
multiple bands.

73,

Hank, W6SX


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