Re: [Elecraft] HELP! XFINITY SHUT OFF INTERNET DUE TO HAM ANTENNAS

[Peter Wollan]

We just switched to getting internet through T-Mobile, a cell phone
connection.  It's a hotspot, but fairly large and more capable than the
little dongles.  Not blazingly fast, but good, and reasonably priced.

  Peter W0LLN

On Wed, Oct 20, 2021 at 1:22 PM eric norris via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> Dear Gang:
> Xfinity, our internet provider, showed up at 7:30am this morning, to
> explain to the XYL that we were being cut off for good because my amateur
> radio activities had caused wide area outages.  Oddly, these wide area
> outages did not include my own house.  They told her the antennas
> themselves--absent any power--were the problem
> The last time I was threatened, I installed chokes and opto-isolaters on
> our shielded ethernet lines, and after being told they use 14Mhz as their
> carrier frequency, I have stayed off 20m, only using 100w unless I'm in a
> rare contest.  I asked to speak to a technical guy--they gave me a number
> which I called, but he never called back.
> Any Ideas?  Does anyone have a contact at the ARRL, or know a
> communications lawyer?  Comcast/Xfinity will be back out here at 2pm
> Pacific time--I'd appreciate any help.
> My XYL depends on an internet connection to work.  Being off the air is
> unimaginable.
> Frantic,
>
> 73, Eric WD6DBM
>
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Field Day

[Peter Wollan]

Class D and E are home stations. They certainly began setting up long
before the Friday of FD weekend. They don’t get the extra hours to operate.

   Peter W0LLN


On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 9:08 AM Andy Durbin  wrote:

> The field day rules need to be reviewed and corrected, not just for
> allowed power sources.
>
> Take this for example -
>
> "3. Date and Time Period: Field Day 2020 will be held June 27-28. Field
> Day is ALWAYS the fourth full weekend, beginning at 1800 UTC Saturday and
> ending at 2059 UTC Sunday.
>  3.1. Class A and B (see below) stations that do not begin setting up
> until 1800 UTC on Saturday may operate the entire 27-hour Field Day period.
>  3.2. Stations who begin setting up before 1800 UTC Saturday may work only
> 24 consecutive hours, commencing when on-the-air operations begin.
>  3.3. No class A or B station may begin its set-up earlier than  UTC
> on the Friday (Thursday afternoon or evening local time) preceding the
> Field Day period. Cumulative set-up time shall not exceed a total of 24
> hours."
>
> This rule set allows a 1E station to operate for almost 27 hours.  The
> contest start and end times are defined in rule 3.0.  None of the
> subordinate rules say that a 1E station that performs all setting up after
> 1800 UTC Saturday is not allowed to operate for the full contest period.
>
> It takes me less than 1 hour to convert from mains power to running the
> entire station on a generator.  The rules, as published, allow me to
> connect and start the generator after 1800 UTC Saturday and continue
> operating until 2059 UTC Sunday.
>
> ARRL representatives have told me that 1E stations may operate only 24
> hours but the rules don't say that.
>
> 73,
> Andy, k3wyc
>
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Re: [Elecraft] AX-1 Tripod Adapter

[Peter Wollan]

I just got one, and it happens to fit my camera tripod. The tripod attaches
to a camera using a smaller plastic piece that screws onto the camera (or
the antenna) and snaps onto the platform. There’s just enough clearance for
the BNC connector.

You might try something like a flash holder to get enough clearance.

I used it Sunday morning FD with my QRP K2.  It was quieter than the wire
in a tree, but pretty much everyone who could hear me with one could also
hear me with the other. Really nice!


  Peter W0LLN


OMon, Jun 24, 2019 at 12:32 AM Wayne Burdick  wrote:

> Phil,
>
> I'll send you a dimensioned drawing.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
> > On Jun 23, 2019, at 6:42 PM, Phil Hystad via Elecraft <
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:
> >
> > I just ordered the AX-1 antenna Tripod Adapter but I am wondering if it
> fits the camera tripod that we have.   I need about two inches of clearance
> (i.e. radius from center of attachment screw) to clear the platform
> designed for the camera.  I am not sure that the AX-1 tripod adapter has
> that amount of distance between the BNC connector and the mounting screw.
> >
> > Has anyone used this tripod adapter on a camera mount tripod?Or, do
> I need to buy another tripod and if so, any suggestions?
> >
> > 73, phil, K7PEH
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Best Mac to use with KX3

[Peter Wollan]

CocoaModem fails for me under MacOS 10.14.2.  CocoaNEC runs fine.

   Peter W0LLN

On Tue, Jan 29, 2019 at 1:22 AM Bill Frantz  wrote:

> I am running cocoaModem successfully on MacOS 10.14.3.
>
> 73 Bill AE6JV
>
> On 1/28/19 at 10:45 PM, elecraft@mailman.qth.net (Steve Lawrence
> via Elecraft) wrote:
>
> >If one wants to use cocoaModem for RTTY, PSK or the other modes
> >it supports, note that it runs fine under Mac OS 10.12 and has
> >been reported to run under Mac OS 10.13 (I personally haven't
> >tried it.)
> >
> >cocoaModem is a 32 bit program and possibly won't run under OS
> >10.14 and above that might require programs to be 64 bit. As of
> >9-24-2018 see:
> >
> >>https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT208436 <
> https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT208436>
> >
> >About this Mac > System Reports > Software > Applications will
> >show which programs loaded on the machine are 64 bit compatible.
> ---
> Bill Frantz| When all else fails: Voice   | Periwinkle
> (408)356-8506  | and CW.  | 16345
> Englewood Ave
> www.pwpconsult.com |  | Los Gatos,
> CA 95032
>
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Re: [Elecraft] AX1 may add 40 meter coverage with "AXE1" extender

[Peter Wollan]

Wayne,

Are you thinking the 40 m extender would be an add-on?  I’m close to
ordering an AX1 — should I wait for 40, or is it safe to buy now and add 40
later?

   Peter W0LLN


On Fri, Nov 16, 2018 at 7:59 PM Wayne Burdick  wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Sometimes the bands normally covered by the AX1 just aren't open (20/17/15
> meters), yet 40 meters has all sorts of activity. Like tonight, at my QTH.
> 40 m is also a great local/emergency band, with many active regional nets.
>
> For such times, we may offer an extender for the AX1 that moves the 20
> meter resonance down to 40 meters.
>
> A significant amount of additional inductance is required. The ATU built
> into the KX2 or KX3 provides any needed fine-tuning to efficiently cover
> the entire band, despite the unavoidably narrow-band nature of a short whip.
>
> I whipped up a prototype of the hypothetical "AXE1" this afternoon and had
> excellent on-air results. Tests were done in my back yard, featuring
> hard-packed soil and brown unwatered grass...in keeping with our legendary
> drought. With one call each I bagged British Columbia and Colorado. Both
> stations were peaking S-9, and both gave me reports in the S-5 range.
>
> This brings up an important caveat: a short whip is not the optimal
> antenna on 40 meters by any stretch, so calling strong stations is a good
> strategy. They could be strong due to propagation, good antennas, or high
> power, and two out of these three aid both ends of the QSO.
>
> The extender would be about 6" long and 1/2" in diameter. (Even a small
> amount of added length helps on 40 meters.) It threads into place between
> the AX1's whip and base, and adds just 1.8 ounces of weight, still
> consistent with hand-held use of the KX2.
>
> Equally important, for those of us who travel light, the extender -- plus
> a counterpoise wire for 40 m -- fits comfortably into our smallest bag, the
> CS40, along with the AX1 and an AXB1 whip bipod.
>
> (In answer to the inevitable question: it *might* also work on 30 meters
> in a pinch, with an ATU, but efficiency would be lower.)
>
> If you'd be interested in AX1 use on 40 meters, please email me directly.
> I won't necessarily be able to respond, but this will help us gauge
> interest. We'll keep a list for possible early announcement.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Call location

[Peter Wollan]

Really?  WGN and WLS were (are) in Chicago, WBAA is in Lafayette Indiana.
KROC is west of the mississippi in Minnesota.  I too remember the line as
the Mississippi River, but I thought East was W, West was K.  This must be
a googleable question.

   Peter W0LLN

On Fri, Jul 13, 2018 at 4:58 PM, Ken G Kopp  wrote:

> Trivia:. Usta be that all "K" calls on the BC band were east of the
> Mississippi River.
>
> WFAA and WBAP in Ft Worth share a common studio and transmitter and split
> hours of call use.
>
> 73!
>
> K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] Field Day Report

[Peter Wollan]

For several years I've been using my K2 to have a QRP station at our club's
FD (Rochester MN - K0Z).  They used to run kilowatts, but have settled on
100 watts, and aren't willing to use less. So, the QRP station is
administratively a separate FD entry (W0LLN), it receives the x5
multiplier, and I get to help set up and take down, to share in the
camaraderie, the food, the portapotty, and all the bonus points I feel I
can justify -- I get the ARRL message from someone else, I claim the info
table and the education, but the elected official never came over to me so
I don't think I can claim that.  Overall, it works well, and there are
always a few people interested in what a simple station looks like.

I stick with S and paper logging -- I don't have enough battery power to
keep a laptop going, and my iPad just won't do it.  Next year maybe my CW
will be up to running, and I'll get a more satisfying score.  But I did get
K6IE, who was at least as loud as anyone else -- QRP to QRP, halfway across
the country.

   Peter W0LLN

On Tue, Jun 26, 2018 at 12:15 AM, Bill Frantz  wrote:

> The West Valley Amateur Radio Association returned to Mora Hill above Los
> Altos, Ca for field day. We used K6EI for our main call and W6ZZZ for GOTA.
> This year we were 14A, QRP, battery and solar panel powered. We had the
> luxury of lots of panels, so we were able to have a 120V utility for
> running our computers. We also had enough extra power to run our fans etc.,
> as the temperatures on Saturday were in the high 90s (c36C or so).
>
> Note, we are not permitted to operate generators at night, so we don't use
> them at all.
>
> We were in category 14A with 3 CW stations, 3 SSB stations, and 2 digital
> stations on HF. VHF and UHF filled the rest of the transmitter slots. We
> had separate triband antennas for CW, SSB, and digital with triband filters
> to allow use of all three bands at once. We also had separate wire antennas
> for 40M and 80M. GOTA had its own set of antennas. Getting all this set up
> took the better part of the daylight on Friday. (Thanks ARRL for the rule
> change that permits early setup Friday when it is cooler.)
>
> We minimize interference between stations on the same band by careful
> antenna placement, running QRP, using Elecraft and Flex gear, and providing
> adequate voltage to the radios. I could see our CW stations on the P3 while
> operating digital, but they were just strong CW stations and caused no
> interference.
>
> Our networked N1MM logging system lets us cheer every time we pass a QSO
> count milepost, as well as providing lots of backup for the logs.
>
> Our GOTA operation was quite popular, with QSOs 150% of last year. Since
> we are next to a popular trail in the San Antonio Open Space Preserve, we
> get a lot of bicycle visitors. Some know about ham radio and others have
> never heard of it.
>
> It appears our main operation QSO count was slightly ahead of last year,
> but I haven't seen a full comparison yet.
>
> We got lots of people on the air, with some trying new modes for the first
> time. I counted 21 people who actually made it into the group photo.
> Everyone had a good time and went home tired.
>
> 73 Bill AE6JV
>
> 
> ---
> Bill Frantz| Re: Computer reliability, performance, and security:
> 408-356-8506   | The guy who *is* wearing a parachute is *not* the
> www.pwpconsult.com | first to reach the ground.  - Terence Kelly
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Build: Options Advice

[Peter Wollan]

It's been a long time since I did this, but I remember there are a couple
of connectors for the option boards that can be installed during the main
board assembly, and make a tremendous difference in ease of installing the
options when you get around to it.  So there's an advantage in buying at
least some of the options right away -- I think the sideband board, and
maybe the tuner?

If I remember right, the noise blanker has some unavoidable disassembly
when it's installed, but not so much the others.

   Peter W0LLN

On Fri, May 25, 2018 at 4:06 PM, David Woolley 
wrote:

> The disadvantage is that you will need to unsolder some components.  In
> most cases, I think you can destroy the through holes, but there is at
> least one case where you have to insert a new value in the old hole.
>
> There used to be a, third party, product, called UnPCBs, which provide a
> minimal dummy version of most of the modules, but the sales of the K2
> dropped to a level where it wasn't worth another production run for the
> PCBs for this.
>
> --
> David Woolley
> Owner K2 06123
>
>
> On 24/05/18 19:44, AE0MM wrote:
>
>> I'm planning to build a K2/10 with the following options:
>> KNB2
>> KAT2
>> KAF2
>>
>> Is there any disadvantage to building the base K2, then adding the
>> options later?
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Small set up for KX2 digi

[Peter Wollan]

Looking at the WSJT web site, they have packages for Mac and for an
assortment of linuxes, but not for iOS.  Compiling the source code for iOS
is possible, in principle, but iOS makes it hard.

One of the smaller Mac laptops, particularly a refurb, might be a
reasonable choice.

Peter W0LLN


On Monday, December 11, 2017, Christopher Hoover  wrote:

> >
> > I believe all the WSJT software needs Windows and X86 instruction set
>
>
> Negative.  It not only runs on other OSs, inlcuding Linux and MacOS, it
> also runs on other ISAs such as ARM.
>
> 73 de AI6KG
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] line IN and OUT on new computer

[Peter Wollan]

I read the Q about this -- it turns out there are several different
standards which look the same externally. This one is OMTP;  for a Mac, you
need CTIA. They differ in the mic and ground connection. There is also
TRRS. I don't know what that one is.

So don't just buy one of these adapters without checking what your socket
is.

 Peter W0LLN


On Saturday, August 12, 2017, Mike Furrey  wrote:

> Yes, that is the one I have. There are probably less expensive ones I
> could have ordered but I needed it "NOW" and bought it off the shelf. It
> works well for me with a new laptop and Windows 10 (Ugh).
> Mike
>
> On Saturday, August 12, 2017 9:07 AM, Jorge Diez - CX6VM <
> cx6vm.jo...@gmail.com > wrote:
>
>
>  Hello Mike
> thanks very much for the informations
> Is this one?  https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-
> Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8=1502546701=
> 8-2=sennheiser+pcv+05+combo+audio+adapter
> 73,Jorge
>
> |  | Libre de virus. www.avast.com  |
>
>
> 2017-08-12 10:52 GMT-03:00 Mike Furrey 
> >:
>
> Hi Jorge,The "Y"connector will not work, There is a very specific
> connector with three rings and a tip needed for that single new style jack
> on the laptops because that jack incorporates both a mono input for the mic
> and a stereo output for the headphones. A very specific connector I found
> that works is the Sennheiser, part no. PCV 05, called Combo Audio Adapter
> with a produce code of 504518. That part has worked well for me. I found
> that part at a Fry's Electronics in Austin, TX. An alternative is buy a
> cheap gaming headset that utilizes that single jack and splice in the mono
> plug for the mic and the stereo plug for the headphone to go to the K3.
> I hope this helps.
> 73, Mike WA5POK
>
>
> On Saturday, August 12, 2017 8:14 AM, Jorge Diez - CX6VM <
> cx6vm.jo...@gmail.com > wrote:
>
>
>  Hello
>
> I do digital modes with two cables from K3´s LINE IN and OUT to MIC and
> PHONES on my old laptop
>
> Looking for a new Laptop, I notice they combine MIC and PHONE in ONLY ONE
> 3.5 mm connector
>
> Any problem with that?  Just need a Y cable to connect LIN IN and OUT in K3
> and on the other side a 3.5 mm audio connector to connect in the laptop and
> all will be working correctly?
>
> Or is better to stay with a laptop with two separates connectors for MIC
> and PHONE?
>
> thanks
> Jorge
> CX6VM/CW5W
>
>  source=link_campaign=sig- email_content=webmail>
> Libre
> de virus. www.avast.com
>  source=link_campaign=sig- email_content=webmail>
> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8- 4E2AA1F9FDF2>
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>
>
>
>
>
> --
> 73,
> Jorge
> CX6VM/CW5W
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] "Hot" setup for Field Day with op headset, logger headphones, and speakers

[Peter Wollan]

Several years ago I got a little box that takes an audio input and has four
sockets for headphones, each with its own volume control -- needs 12v
power.  I think it's not available now, but Amazon has 5-way splitters for
cheap, not powered, and no volume control.  Look for "headphone splitter".

   Peter W0LLN

On Tue, Jun 27, 2017 at 5:32 PM, Mike Murray  wrote:

> Steve,
>
> How about using the phone jack on front panel for one, back panel for
> another and then set "SPKR+PH"  to yes if you want the gallery to hear?
>
> Mike W0AG
>
> On Tue, Jun 27, 2017 at 3:05 PM, Steve Wilson via Elecraft <
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> > With Field Day behind us, and since our club runs mostly K3's, I thought
> > I'd ask if anyone had suggestions for the best way to configure the K3,
> use
> > adapters, audio distribution box of some sort, etc., to allow for a
> headset
> > for the operator, headphones for the logger, and speakers for the
> "gallery"
> > to hear.
> > Thanks, Steve  KO6L
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Re: [Elecraft] Logging software advice

[Peter Wollan]

I've looked at logging with an iPad and haven't found it satisfactory yet
-- but I haven't tried a Piglet.  Just what control does the Piglet allow
with an iPad?

(1)  Can it fetch the frequency in use from the rig (K2 or KX3)?  (I think
yes.)
(2)  Can it enter a frequency from the iPad?
(3)  Can it send CW or PSK31 from the iPad?  (I think no.)
(4)  Do different logging apps have different capabilities?  For example,
using iSDR with a KX3, can you tap on a signal and move the transmitting
frequency to that?

My impression is that the only way to send from an iPad is through the USB
port, with something like an iMic in between, or playing audio into the
rig's mic.  Pretty kludgy.

Peter W0LLN


On Tue, Jul 1, 2014 at 12:04 AM, Nick Garner nwgar...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi Phil,
 The Piglet creates a wireless network out of the box.




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Re: [Elecraft] P3 marker B transmit freq.

[Peter Wollan]

Another thought  how about putting the magenta marker on the DX
transmit frequency, and roam up with the A green main knob?  And leave
split off.

 Peter W0LLN


On Wed, Mar 19, 2014 at 8:35 AM, Sam Morgan k5oai@gmail.com wrote:

 just a thought
 how about creating a macro that does what you want...?


 On 3/19/2014 9:31 AM, Gary Smith wrote:

 Bill,

 Understood that some only use it that way, that is not my norm
 though. I chase DX and If I engage the magenta operation with the P3,
 its to be transmitting on a DX's listening frequency and in all those
 cases I will be split.


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Kit display back light

[Peter Wollan]

Retrofitting the K1 backlight is exceptionally difficult, and installing
new is easy.  You could start assembling the K1, but for sure wait on the
lcd assembly till you get the backlight parts.  The assembly instructions
are on the Elecraft site, you can read up on it before anything arrives.

 Peter W0LLN


On Wed, Mar 12, 2014 at 10:55 AM, Jim Sheldon w...@cox.net wrote:

 I picked up an unopened, 2 band K1 kit from an individual that bought a
 KX3 before he got around to opening  building the K1.  It's arriving today
 and I want to install the display backlight option



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Re: [Elecraft] KE7X books on Amazon

[Peter Wollan]

Can you issue a DMCA takedown notice to Amazon?  Would be cool if that law
actually protected someone real for a change.

  Peter W0LLN


On Thu, Aug 22, 2013 at 2:08 PM, Cady, Fred fc...@ece.montana.edu wrote:

 Please do not purchase any of my books on Amazon.com. They are being
 offered by publishers in violation of my copyright. www.lulu.com is the
 only authorized sellar of my Elecraft books. And besides they are about 2x
 the price of purchasing from Lulu or ke7x.com.
 Fred
 KE7X


 Fred
 fcady at ieee dot org
 The Elecraft K3: Design, Configuration, and Operation, 2nd ed
 The Elecraft KX3 -- Going for the Summit
 (Working on the KPA500 and KAT500 book, coming soon)
 www.ke7x.com
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Re: [Elecraft] new computer advice suggestions for using with a K3

[Peter Wollan]

Pignology has a wifi interface that makes an iPad feasible as a
logging/controlling computer.  There's a version of Rumlog for iPad, as
well as Pignology's Hamlog.  Android tablets reportedly work as well.

Peter W0LLN


On Mon, Aug 12, 2013 at 8:27 AM, Bill Frantz fra...@pwpconsult.com wrote:

 Please allow me to hijack this thread to ask about low power draw
 computers for use with the K3.

 Last field day I set up our club's digital station with a K3/10, SignaLink
 USB, and a MacBook Pro. The combination worked very well, but the MacBook
 Pro, connected through the Apple power adapter and a Radio Shack inverter
 drew 3 to 4 times as much power as all the rest of the system. I used the
 Elecraft USB -- RS232 cable for rig control.

 So I am looking for a computer that runs on 12 volts and draws a minimum
 amount of current. It should be low noise and all those other good things
 as well. My OS preferences are in order: MacOS -- because I know it,
 flavors of Linux -- so I won't have to configure a Windows system and deal
 with Microsoft's license verification, and finally Windows.

 On the MacBook Pro I was running cocoaModem and RUMped. I expect on other
 OSes I will run fldigi and a contest logger to be names later.

 Does anyone have any suggestions?

 Cheers - Bill, AE6JV

 --**--**
 ---
 Bill Frantz|The nice thing about standards| Periwinkle
 (408)356-8506  |is there are so many to choose| 16345 Englewood Ave
 www.pwpconsult.com |from.   - Andrew Tanenbaum| Los Gatos, CA 95032

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 AM-breakthrough

[Peter Wollan]

This thread has moved way beyond my technical level.  As I understand, the
problem arises in locations where there are very strong broadcast stations,
well outside the ham bands.  Presumably a bandpass filter doesn't help --
is it that the mixing products are occurring in the antenna?  Wouldn't the
solution then be in the antenna, in the form of directional nulls or stub
filters?

 Peter W0LLN
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Re: [Elecraft] No power out K3

[Peter Wollan]

just something to check -- is the right antenna selected?  (I've done that.)

  Peter W0LLN


On Fri, May 17, 2013 at 12:55 PM, Steve a...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Almost forgot...no receive either

 Sent from my I-Phone
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Re: [Elecraft] Solar Power for KX3

[Peter Wollan]

I suspect you're going to have to reinvent at least some of the wheel.  I
have a 10-watt panel I got several years ago and have used to power a K2 at
several Field Days.  It generates 0.5 amps at up to 20 volts in strong
sunlight.  Lower light intensity reduces the voltage but the amps stay
constant.  I run it into a charge controller (a kit from someone on this
list), then a gel-cell battery in parallel with the K2.  Running overnight,
not very intensely, the battery is fully charged again at the end of FD.

Lead batteries are very robust about charging, and I don't know if the
controller in the KX3 can accept this kind of wide-ranging power.

My panel is small and light, and is mounted in a nylon cover with a zipper
-- it's two panels which fold up.  It was about $100 -- cheap at the time.
 Looking around the web, there are folding amorphous silicon panels for
backpacking, for a lot of money, and larger, cheaper, heavier panels from
places like Home Depot and Northern Tools.  Kits are available.  You'll
need a silicon panel, a reverse-voltage protection diode, and some kind of
charge controller if the KX3 doesn't already do that.

I'd like to hear about your results.

Peter W0LLN


On Thu, Apr 18, 2013 at 3:28 PM, jimk...@aol.com wrote:

 Rather than reinvent the wheel, does anybody have experience or
 suggestions for a small solar array sufficient to keep a KX3 with internal
 batteries going during daylight? I would assume 10 watts average over a
 reasonable TX duty cycle would be enough.? Something strong enough or
 flexible enough to withstand packing for air travel would be desirable.


 73?? -? Jim?? K8MR

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Amp

[Peter Wollan]

I hadn't heard of this one.  Is it for sale now?  this web site says
it's waiting for FCC approval.

www.hobbypcb.com/amateur-radio/amateur-radio/hardrock-50-hf-power-amp-kit.html

 Peter W0LLN


On Fri, Mar 22, 2013 at 12:44 PM, Ariel Jacala n...@hotmail.com wrote:
 I have been using a Hardrock which achieves 50 watts easy on all bands accept 
 6m (about 32 there).  At about $250 - that is about $5 dollars a watt versus 
 Ten Tec at $8 a watt.  The TenTec does auto band switching though.  The 
 developers at Hardrock are working on a band switching code and may be out 
 with a software upgrade that does that soon.  The Hardrock is no bigger than 
 a large brick and at about 4x4x8, both the Hardrock and the KX3 fit in one of 
 Rose's cases.

 After having achieved QRP/DXCC with the KX3,the extra power is more of a 
 luxury -:)

 Ariel NY4G

 Sent from my iPad

 On Mar 22, 2013, at 8:21 AM, Giff Hammar gham...@sv-phoenix.com wrote:

 I've been having a blast playing with my new KX3 for the past couple of
 weeks and am now looking forward to adding a 100W amp. What kinds of
 amps are people using with the KX3? Any that are particularly good or
 bad? Any pitfalls? Thoughts about existing products vs. the new one from
 Elecraft?

 73,

 Giff / K1GAH
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Re: [Elecraft] Getting ready to order a K2 - which options

[Peter Wollan]

The ATU, in addition to ATUing, adds a second antenna socket.  The
160/RXant option adds 160 meters and an RX antenna socket, along with the
firmware to receive on the RX ant and automatically transmit on another.

Some find the noise blanker to be important.

Peter W0LLN


On Thursday, September 13, 2012, Burke Jones wrote:

 I am getting ready to put in an order for a K2 kit.  I currently have the
 KX1, which is my only rig.  I want something more substantial at home to
 sit on the desktop and have fun with.

 I am definitely getting the SSB option - mainly because I want to do some
 of the digital modes.

 I don't want to do the battery or internal tuner at this time (might make
 good Christmas presents down the line).

 What other options should I consider and why?

 Burke Jones
 N0HYD
 http://www.N0HYD.com
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Keyer Pause

[Peter Wollan]

These Begali keys that have needed contact cleaning:  do they have the
silver contacts, or is it also sometimes necessary with the gold
contacts?

Peter W0LLN


On Tue, Sep 4, 2012 at 8:38 AM, Mike K2MK k...@comcast.net wrote:
 Hi Don,

 I would like to echo Lee's comments. After about 2 years of use my Begali
 paddle became what I can only call sluggish when used with my K3. I
 contacted Begali and he sent me an abrasive cleaning strip.
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Re: [Elecraft] PTT Footswitch

[Peter Wollan]

QLF !

Sorry, I couldn't resist.

 Peter W0LLN


On Mon, Jul 16, 2012 at 9:24 AM,  bill.va...@gmail.com wrote:
 Perhaps you have an old hand key hanging around. Some of the WW II models
 make great PTT switches.

 Bill, VA3OL
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Re: [Elecraft] Field Day experience with K3

[Peter Wollan]

The problem here isn't the battery AH capacity, but the voltage
supply.  It could be dropping below 10 vdc because both radios are on
the same supply, or because the power supply wires are too fine gauge,
or because the battery is defective.

The K3 is less robust to supply voltage than the other Elecraft
radios.  The K2 is rated for 10-15 volts;  the K1, KX1, and KX3 go
down a lot lower, I think 8 volts.  I looked at the K3 documents to
see what minimum voltage it requires, and I couldn't find it -- I
think it's something like 11, but it may be 11.5 or even 12.

You'd probably do fine just by using a separate battery for each
radio, and not letting it run down too far.  A voltage booster isn't
needed, as lots of operators all over the world have demonstrated.

  Peter W0LLN


On Thu, Jun 28, 2012 at 12:19 PM, John Kountz j...@t6ee.com wrote:
...  In tandom
 operation, the Eagle was not affected by momentary voltage dips (below 10
 VDC) whereas the K3 would shut down.
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Dayton- new hf rigs?

[Peter Wollan]

The prices I find on the Flex web site are $5999 and $6999.

   Peter W0LLN


On Mon, May 21, 2012 at 2:07 PM,  wb4...@knology.net wrote:

 And, once again, go to the Flex web site on-line store.  Don't believe me.
 In black and white (not a tee shirt), it says the 6500 is $3,999 as a
 pre-order, with a $1,200 deposit required to pre-order.
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Dayton- new hf rigs?

[Peter Wollan]

Yup, $6999 and $3999.  I hadn't scrolled down far enough.  Sorry for
the confusion.

 Peter W0LLN


On Mon, May 21, 2012 at 2:41 PM,  wb4...@knology.net wrote:
 Copied directly From the Flex web site (using copy/paste not retyped):

 FLEX-6500 Limited Edition Pre-Order Deposit Only - Total Introductory Price:
 $3999
 Your Price: $1,200.00

 The 6700 receive-only is the $5,999, and the Flex 6700 Rx/Tx is $6,000.  The
 6500 (single SCU) is $3,999.  Look at the page bottom, last item.

 Or, am I looking at a different Flex Radio Systems on-line store Signature
 Series page than everyone else?
 Terry, WB4JFI

 -Original Message- From: Peter Wollan
 Sent: Monday, May 21, 2012 3:31 PM
 To: wb4...@knology.net
 Cc: Joe Subich, W4TV ; Elecraft Reflector

 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Dayton- new hf rigs?

 The prices I find on the Flex web site are $5999 and $6999.

  Peter W0LLN


 On Mon, May 21, 2012 at 2:07 PM,  wb4...@knology.net wrote:


 And, once again, go to the Flex web site on-line store.  Don't believe me.
 In black and white (not a tee shirt), it says the 6500 is $3,999 as a
 pre-order, with a $1,200 deposit required to pre-order.


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Re: [Elecraft] Changing the band that is installed

[Peter Wollan]

Components for each of the bands available for the two-band board used
to be listed on the order sheet, if I remember correctly, but I don't
see them now.  Write to supp...@elecraft.com -- they may be low-enough
volume now that they don't package them up routinely.  But yes,
reworking a board is easy.

Peter W0LLN

On Tue, Apr 24, 2012 at 2:24 PM, af6ni astro_cr...@hotmail.com wrote:
 I recently purchased a used K1. It came with the original 2 band board - I
 think set for 40 and 20, and a 4 band board that has 40, 30, 20 and 15. I
 would really like to get it on 17. Could I rework the 2 band board with
 components to cover 17? Would they be available from Elecraft?
 Thanks
 Joe
 AF6NI

 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Changing-the-band-that-is-installed-tp7497153p7497153.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] DX list

[Peter Wollan]

Perhaps not printable, but very good:  http://ac6v.com/prefixes.htm#PRI

 Peter W0LLN


On Tue, Feb 7, 2012 at 8:29 AM, Dave  Jeanne dar...@comcast.net wrote:
 Where can I find a printable listing of the call prefixes and country
 names worldwide in the internet that I can print out.
 Thanks
 Dave KD1NA
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3- laptops for I/Q

[Peter Wollan]

True, but ... there's an iPad app that will produce a panadapter
display from the KX3 audio IQ output.(It needs a Griffin iMic or
equivalent).  If I understand correctly.  Perhaps not what you want
for picnic table operation, but probably nice for Field Day.

  Peter W0LLN

On Tue, Jan 31, 2012 at 4:44 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 Brian,

 My view of the operation on the gazebo or deck, etc. does not mesh in my
 mind with use of the I/Q KX3 output.
(...)
 Those tools are used in serious operating situations rather than the
 more casual operation that I envision will be done in the backyard,
 gazebo or deck.  (...)

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 1/31/2012 5:22 PM, Brian Pepperdine wrote:
 (...)
 I see the KX3  with the I/Q lending a hand on the laptop on the gazebo 
 deck (ah, summer).Or... I guess I can start haunting the computer 
 re-builders for an oldie with the guts and a slot and PCMCIA soundcard I 
 want and hope to keep it going.
 BrienVE3VAW

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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Sideswiper mode for internal keyer (also K3)

[Peter Wollan]

The Elecraft keyers all treat one side of the paddle (the dit side, I
think) as a straight key when the key is plugged in and the option is
set to hand.  But it sounds like you want one paddle to generate
dits when held down, and the other paddle to generate dahs,
repeatedly.  That's what I think of as a side-swiper -- pushing the
single paddle one way generates dits, the other way produces dahs.  If
that's what you mean, I wouldn't call that a straight key.

   Peter W0LLN

On Tue, Jan 10, 2012 at 1:36 PM, Thomas Horsten tho...@horsten.com wrote:
 On 10 January 2012 18:25, Bruce Beford vze1t...@myfairpoint.net wrote:

 Wayne had posted this on the KX3 Yahoo group 2 days ago:

 You'll be able to configure either the left-side KEY jack or the KXPD3
 as paddle normal, paddle reverse, or hand-key. Auto-detect of a hand
 key in parallel with a paddle via two diodes is possible but not yet
 implemented.


 Thanks Bruce, but not quite what I'm looking for, I want to use the
 internal paddle as a side swiper, so either contact on the paddle works
 as a straight key (similar to wiring up the paddle as a side swiper but
 doing it in software rather than physically)!

 73, Thomas
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Sideswiper mode for internal keyer (also K3)

[Peter Wollan]

Thanks for the education.  Wow, one more thing I can't imagine ever
learning how to do.

How about soldering up an adapter that connects tip and ring together
in a stereo plug?  Would that do what is wanted, when the keyer is set
to hand?

Peter W0LLN


On Tue, Jan 10, 2012 at 2:00 PM, Thomas Horsten tho...@horsten.com wrote:
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZfLrgYHIpjo

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 hardware AGC experiment shows promise ( KE7X config)

[Peter Wollan]

Fred's configuration struck me as quite surprising.  With DSP at
5-700, his K3 would be using the 1000 kHz roofing filter, so there
would be a substantial frequency range blocked only by the DSP.  And
ATT on -- why would this be attractive?  I'd think to hear weak
signals close together, you'd turn off ATT, turn up RF gain, and
squeeze down to a narrow roofing filter.  Wouldn't that make the
signals sharper and more legible?

I wonder if this choice of operating settings is the reason not
everyone hears the mushy effect.

 Peter W0LLN


On Mon, Dec 5, 2011 at 7:09 AM, Cady, Fred fc...@ece.montana.edu wrote:

 When operating, ATT is ALWAYS ON. I don't think I ever took it off
 except maybe when 15 was dead. PRE never on.


 I have 250, 400, 1000 and 2.7 kHz filters.

 DSP _usually_ in the 500 - 700 range, sometimes a little wider,
 sometimes a little narrower. I don't think I ever went below 300 Hz.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 dimensions?

[Peter Wollan]

The penultimate whip:  the two or three thinnest sections of a 16'
crappie pole ($10 from Cabella's).  It fails the invisibility
criterion, but otherwise seems to fit.

What do you do with it then?  drag a wire behind as a counterpoise?

Peter W0LLN

On Fri, Oct 21, 2011 at 12:32 PM, Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com wrote:
  I'm searching for the ultimate lightweight whip material. I'd like
 a 7' untuned whip that is self-supporting and straight in normal use,
 bends without being damaged if it hits a tree branch, weighs only a
 few ounces, and is nearly invisible.
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[Elecraft] having enough radios

[Peter Wollan]

It is possible to have enough rigs.

 
http://forums.qrz.com/showthread.php?311312-Washington-Island-s-Ham-Radio-Treasure

 Peter W0LLN
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Need help with soundcard digital mode transmit (retry)

[Peter Wollan]

Don,

The CocoaModem web site has some information about connecting, as well
as configuring the software to successfully transmit.  I've used both
CocoaModem and Fldigi, but the connection process is the same:  from
the K2 to the Mac is a simple stereo cable, headphone socket to
headphone socket.  From the Mac to the K2 requires a stereo cable to
8-pin microphone plug, with a couple of resisters as a voltage
divider, soldered in the plug, to convert the line-out voltage level
to mic level.  I think the K3 is the same.

Then, the levels have to be set right at both ends, the radio and the
laptop, to have Vox trigger properly.  Basically, you want to turn it
up high enough to trigger without being too high and having
distortion.

CocoaModem:  homepage.mac.com/chen/w7ay/cocoaModem/index.html, look
under interfacing.

 Peter W0LLN



On Thu, Jun 9, 2011 at 12:03 PM, Don Putnick don.putn...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Hi all,

 I'm the proud new papa of Elecraft K3 #5495. I've been able to receive PSK31 
 via both the rear line-out and the rear speaker jacks. The line-out jack 
 appears to be at a fixed level, which is a little low, but the rear speaker 
 jack with volume control works just fine (that's the approach I used on my 
 Yaesu FT-890).

 The problem is I can't get my MacBook to work with the VOX. I've tried the 
 rear line-in and the rear mic jacks, VOX Gain and LOW/HI MIC gain, all in 
 DATA A. Haven't tried USB mode though. And yes, the MacBook is putting out a 
 PSK31 signal.

 I'd really appreciate any helpful hints.
 Thanks and 73, Don NA6Z


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Need help with soundcard digital mode transmit (retry)

[Peter Wollan]

Don,

Ok, I looked at the reference I gave, and the information I thought
was there isn't.  But it's not quite what you want, anyway.  There are
three separate parts:  the Mac, the K3, and the connection between.
The Mac is easy:  you want to use either CocoaModem or FLDIGI, and
they are both excellent.  For the K3, you need to look in the manual.
You need three signals:  sound to the Mac, sound from the Mac, and
PTT.  It sounds like it's going to be easier with the K3 than with the
K2, in that the K3 apparently can accept line-in input -- the K2
needed to have the Mac sound signal brought down to microphone levels.
 Can the K3 respond to line-in as input to Vox?  If yes, that's your
PTT.  If not, you need to either reduce the voltage, like with the K2,
and plug it in as if it's a microphone, or give up on Vox and generate
a PTT signal.  If you do that, you need a somewhat fancier interface,
like the Signalink box.

So, I guess I haven't been as helpful as I thought I could be.  It
might be as easy as using two stereo cables, one for sound in and one
for sound out, but it depends on the capabilities of the K3.

  Peter W0LLN


On Thu, Jun 9, 2011 at 12:34 PM, Peter Wollan peter.wol...@gmail.com wrote:
 Don,

 The CocoaModem web site has some information about connecting, as well
 as configuring the software to successfully transmit.  I've used both
 CocoaModem and Fldigi, but the connection process is the same:  from
 the K2 to the Mac is a simple stereo cable, headphone socket to
 headphone socket.  From the Mac to the K2 requires a stereo cable to
 8-pin microphone plug, with a couple of resisters as a voltage
 divider, soldered in the plug, to convert the line-out voltage level
 to mic level.  I think the K3 is the same.

 Then, the levels have to be set right at both ends, the radio and the
 laptop, to have Vox trigger properly.  Basically, you want to turn it
 up high enough to trigger without being too high and having
 distortion.

 CocoaModem:  homepage.mac.com/chen/w7ay/cocoaModem/index.html, look
 under interfacing.

     Peter W0LLN



 On Thu, Jun 9, 2011 at 12:03 PM, Don Putnick don.putn...@earthlink.net 
 wrote:
 Hi all,

 I'm the proud new papa of Elecraft K3 #5495. I've been able to receive PSK31 
 via both the rear line-out and the rear speaker jacks. The line-out jack 
 appears to be at a fixed level, which is a little low, but the rear speaker 
 jack with volume control works just fine (that's the approach I used on my 
 Yaesu FT-890).

 The problem is I can't get my MacBook to work with the VOX. I've tried the 
 rear line-in and the rear mic jacks, VOX Gain and LOW/HI MIC gain, all in 
 DATA A. Haven't tried USB mode though. And yes, the MacBook is putting out a 
 PSK31 signal.

 I'd really appreciate any helpful hints.
 Thanks and 73, Don NA6Z


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 vs. K3 and other rigs?

[Peter Wollan]

I've seen this kind of calculation before, and for some events, like
Field Day, it's clear that QRP can compete on scores quite
effectively.  But that's using CW, and probably also PSK31.  Dave's
numbers suggest that it might also be different for North American
contacts (for those of us within North America), compared to crossing
an ocean.  But for me, SSB is much less effective -- I've too often
been able to copy people easily, and have them not react to my 10
watts at all.

But to me, that means use CW for contests, and if I try SSB I
shouldn't worry about not getting through.  Meanwhile, I'll work on
better antennas, and be more persistent so that when the propagation
gods smile I'll be there.

Still, I may get this 100-watt thing when it comes out, or at least
within a year or two.

 Peter W0LLN


On Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 12:20 PM, dave ho13d...@gmail.com wrote:

 To try to put some meaningful numbers on the value of a few extra dB I
 looked at some recent contest scores.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] PDF manuals on iBooks

[Peter Wollan]

I agree that GoodReader is generally better than iBooks for reading
pdf's on an iPad, but Giuseppe's discovery applies to GoodReader too.
Not all images in the P3 manual display on the iPad, and saving a new
version of the pdf from Preview makes everything show up, though the
difference is invisible on a Mac.

It's not every image that causes problems, though, as if they were
created in more than one program and assembled from several sources.
Which makes sense.  So, many of the manuals are probably completely
ok, and you will find problems only when your iPad version has a blank
area that should have an image or figure in it.

 Peter W0LLN


On Thu, Jun 2, 2011 at 10:12 PM, Jon Moody jmood...@gmail.com wrote:
 HI Giuseppe,

 I have found that GoodReader works much better for PDF's than iBooks.  I am
 displaying the K3 Owners manual with all of its pictures as we speak.

 --
 Thanks
 Jon
 KG6VDW
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 netbook

[Peter Wollan]

This makes the KX3 almost irresistible -- and it was pretty darn
attractive already.  Reviews of iSDR don't mention things like
bandwidth, unfortunately.  Any idea how iSDR on an iPad actually
performs as a panadapter?

It may not be necessary to buy a commercial gadget like the iMic to
get stereo sound input to the iPad.  A bit of googling found a claim
that stereo line-in to an iPad can be done with pins 2, 5, and 6 of
the dock connector to a 1/8 stereo plug.  I'd try to confirm that
before making a cable and plugging things together, though.

 Peter W0LLN



On Wed, Jun 1, 2011 at 4:49 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
e...@elecraft.com wrote:
 Outside of netbooks, the iPad supports real time sdr operation with the
 iSDR' app.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 netbook

[Peter Wollan]

Faberacoustical.com reports that this simple line-in only works with
iPhone, not with iPad.  Apparently the Griffin iMic does work, though,
through the camera connection socket.

So, imperfect, but the KX3 - iPad combination is still very
attractive.  I have the iPad, just need to wait for the KX3.

 Peter W0LLN


On Wed, Jun 1, 2011 at 7:49 PM, Peter Wollan peter.wol...@gmail.com wrote:
 This makes the KX3 almost irresistible -- and it was pretty darn
 attractive already.  Reviews of iSDR don't mention things like
 bandwidth, unfortunately.  Any idea how iSDR on an iPad actually
 performs as a panadapter?

 It may not be necessary to buy a commercial gadget like the iMic to
 get stereo sound input to the iPad.  A bit of googling found a claim
 that stereo line-in to an iPad can be done with pins 2, 5, and 6 of
 the dock connector to a 1/8 stereo plug.  I'd try to confirm that
 before making a cable and plugging things together, though.

     Peter W0LLN



 On Wed, Jun 1, 2011 at 4:49 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
 e...@elecraft.com wrote:
 Outside of netbooks, the iPad supports real time sdr operation with the
 iSDR' app.

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Re: [Elecraft] Shortening a min-module PC board., how to...

[Peter Wollan]

I'd use a jeweler's hand saw.  But then, I have one.

  Peter W0LLN


On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 11:53 AM, David Gilbert
xda...@cis-broadband.com wrote:

 I'm not at all sure I would want to use a nibbler on a populated PV
 board.  Depending upon the brittleness of the board and how carefully
 you are able to wield the nibbler, the resultant mechanical shock could
 be tough on some of the components.

 I wouldn't try to cut it with a band saw or jig saw either.  I don't
 think you could clamp the PC board to a larger board uniformly enough to
 avoid vibration (and even mechanical resonance from the saw teeth) with
 a high degree of confidence.

 I think I'd prefer to use a Dremel tool with an abrasive disk to cut the
 board.  The cutting action would be in line with the board instead of
 perpendicular to it.

 73,
 Dave   AB7E

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/10

[Peter Wollan]

Steve,

I have a K2, not a K3.  It's a wonderful rig, but the K3 is better at
everything except running off a battery.  If you can afford it, get a
K3.

John rightly says that with 10 watts, you can talk to hordes of people
using digital modes;  also true with CW.  Even with those modes,
though, you will find some people you can copy clearly who simply
can't hear you.  With SSB, that's much more common.  While you will be
able to talk to a lot of people using 5 or 10 watts SSB, it will be
dependent on good propagation, and perhaps on good antennas on their
part.  Which still means you'll have lots of fun, and when or if you
buy more power you'll still find QSOs you can't complete -- just keep
your expectations realistic.

I think John's comment about adding SSB is confusing.  The K2
requires an additional module to have either SSB or digital
capability, but the K3 will do it all in the base configuration.
(except FM).  (and AM?).  I think what he means is that he'd recommend
you use digital modes till you add the 100 watt module, and only then
start to use SSB.  My recommendation would be to get the K3/10, put up
a dipole, explore digital modes, see how many people you can reach
with SSB, and eventually add 100 watts.  Oh yes, having the autotuner
will make it much easier to put up a simple multiband antenna.
Without the tuner, you'll have to have a well-tuned antenna, and it
will most likely be for just one or two bands.

Peter W0LLN


On Mon, May 16, 2011 at 11:37 AM, John Ragle tpcj1...@crocker.com wrote:
 Steve...


     Addressing your situation: the K3/10 in digital mode with a dipole
 should enable you to work anyone you can hear.

     Your progressive add-on process will require a little thought. My
 choice would be to add an amplier and antenna first, then SSB later.

     Another thought: you might consider purchase of a K2 in kit form.
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-500 Output for Input schedule?

[Peter Wollan]

Perhaps that Mirage amp is intended for FM?  Not all amps need to be linear.

 Peter W0LLN


On Wed, May 11, 2011 at 2:02 PM, Wes Stewart n...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Then by definition, they aren't linear.

 A graph of output power vs. input power should be a straight line.  It it 
 isn't then it's non-linear.  The practical question is how much non-linearity 
 is acceptable.

 --- On Wed, 5/11/11, Julian, G4ILO julian.g4...@gmail.com wrote:


 If it does that then it will be the first linear amplifier
 I have ever seen
 that actually keeps that relationship across the whole of
 its range.

 Most solid state amplifiers exhibit noticeable compression
 as you increase
 the input power, so you get a lot more than half the rated
 power out for
 half the specified drive power.

 Take a look at the figures for this Mirage amp (selected at
 random as being
 the first spec sheet I could find that proved the point.)
 It is only truly
 linear up to half its rated output. 10W in gives the rated
 160W output, but
 5W gives you 150W 2.5W would give you somewhere around
 120W. The VHF amp I
 have here has a similar characteristic. Although it is
 designed to be driven
 with 5W input I am actually driving it with the K3/K144XV
 with less than
 half that power and still get virtually full output.

 So I think the OP actually asked a very reasonable
 question.

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Re: [Elecraft] NG0R - K2+K60XV+XV144/222/432 - Setup Issue

[Peter Wollan]

My K2 - XV50 setup did this -- the transverter didn't respond to the
K2 commands in any way, but powered up independently.  In my case, it
was that I had soldered up the cable with one DB9 connector
mirror-imaged, so no surprise it didn't work.

DB9 pin numbers are printed in the plastic, inside the back of the
male and on the front of the female.  The diagram in the manual is
only labeled with pin numbers in one place -- each color wire goes to
the same pin number on the next connector.

If it's something else, I can't help.

Peter W0LLN

On Sun, Aug 15, 2010 at 11:08 AM, John Hoaglun j...@hoaglun.com wrote:
 I am in need of a little bit of guidance for where to start looking.

(...)

(...)
 I have built the custom serial cable snake and it tests out fine with
 the DVM on pins 1,6,8,9.

 When I change the jumpers on the transverters to the K2 specs and hookup
 the serial cable and then select either the 144 or 222 transverter
 nothing occurs. I am expecting that the front panel light of the
 transverter should be activated when that band is selected via the band
 up/down buttons on the K2 when appropriate.

 What am I am missing? It is like the K2 is not selecting the
 transverters via the serial cable.
(...)
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 internal keyer problem

[Peter Wollan]

This sounds like the K2's auto-detect feature, which allows connecting
both paddles and a straight key or computer, along with a couple of
diodes, at the same time and sending from either.  If the paddles are
squeezed at exactly the same time, it looks like the straight key to
the circuit.  If I remember right, it can be avoided by choosing
normal rather than auto in the input menu.

Peter W0LLN


On Sun, Aug 8, 2010 at 11:56 AM, g3ymc d...@davesergeant.com wrote:

 I have seen this on occasion with my K2. Occasionally I get a very long DAH
 when I key as if I have mis-keyed. Tap the DIT paddle and all is well again.
 I only run 5W so I don't think it is RF, I suspect a bug in the firmware.
 But so infrequent not to worry about.

 73 Dave G3YMC
 K2 #2498


 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-internal-keyer-problem-tp5385342p5386476.html
 Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Status of the K2 world

[Peter Wollan]

K2 users, support, and production are still going strong.  But -- a
few months ago (I don't remember when), Wayne or Eric (I don't
remember which) described the K2 as a mature product.  This means, I
think, that they would revise it if somebody found a problem
justifying a revision, but they don't expect that to happen, and they
aren't thinking of any other modules to introduce.

I think that's reasonable.  The K2 is wonderful, but not perfect, and
some features aren't as elegant as they could be.  I'd like to see a
new Elecraft product that aims to replace the K2 as the best QRP field
radio, but I think doing it better would require a new design,
probably based on digital technology like the K3.

Considering how busy they are with the K3 etc, a new design won't
happen soon, so I think it's safe to build another K2 now.  They
aren't selling at the rate they did before the K3, but they're still
selling.

Peter W0LLN


On Sat, Jul 31, 2010 at 12:40 PM, Tim n...@cox.net wrote:
 Hello -
   I've been away from radio for about 3 years. Am thinking of building
 another K2, but am wondering if the K2 will be discontinued due to the
 popularity of the K3. Can someone tell me if the K2 users, support, and
 production are all still going strong? Are attempts still being made to
 improve K2 if, or when the opportunity arises?
 Thanks for your input.

 73,
 Tim NZ7C
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Audio routing question

[Peter Wollan]

I hesitate to jump in here, because there are some strong passions
running -- but I'm quite confused about what the disagreements are in
this thread.  Isn't the whole point of diversity reception in the K3
that the receivers **are** synchronized to the same clock?  And if
you're in diversity, and want to listen to just one receiver, can't
you make a macro to switch out to one receiver or the other?

Or is the disagreement about something else entirely?

  Peter W0LLN
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Re: [Elecraft] A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...

[Peter Wollan]

Thomas,

I have a 10-watt K2 with several options.  I'm comfortable building
kits, but I'm not a home-brewer or designer.  The instructions are
clear and thorough, but it's necessary to be careful, and not keep
going too late at night.  So far I've always been able to back out my
mistakes, but some errors require new parts to fix, which Elecraft is
very nice about supplying.

Tools:  in addition to a multimeter, you'll need a good soldering iron
or soldering station, and several hand tools for stripping and shaping
wires (pliers, cutters -- fingernail clippers work well).  Some kind
of static discharge protecter is needed -- mat or wrist strap.  To
calibrate, you need to receive a known frequency -- in the US, the
broadcast time station WWV is sufficient.  And to set the filters, it
is very helpful to have a computer running one of the audio frequency
spectrum displays.  (I use the display in the CocoaModem program for
Macs).  To connect to the computer, all you need is an audio cable
with stereo plugs on each end, going from headphone jack on the K2 to
audio input on the computer.

A dummy load is helpful, but not needed right away.  The Elecraft
dummy load is easy to put together, providing good soldering practice,
and also allows power output measurement using a multimeter.

The K2 and K1 kits include a barrel plug for power, which you need to
solder a wire to.  The K3 uses an APP connector.  The APP connectors
have become a defacto standard -- I have a foot or so of wire running
from the barrel plug to an APP connector, with APP connectors on
everything else so anything can plug into anything.  The power needs
to be 12 volt DC (actually something like 10.5 to 15 or so).  Instead
of buying a 230AC to 12 volt DC power supply, you may want to run the
radio off a battery.  I use a 7 amp-hour 12 volt gel cell, which is
plenty for a week of light use, or maybe 12 hours of a contest.

The KAT2 can be set to read out SWR, digitally.  It's a particularly
nice module, and I recommend it highly.

It works well to start with a stripped-down K2 and add modules over
several years.  In fact, you assemble in stages, and get each stage
working before moving on the the next.  However, some modules require
connectors in places that are easy to put in on original assembly but
significant effort later.  If you think you might maybe someday want a
particular add-on, read the manual to find out what connectors it
needs and consider buying and installing the connectors during your
initial assembly.  Ask here on the list about any specifics.

And finally:  consider the K3.  The K2 was designed as the ideal Field
Day radio, and I think it is.  However, the 100-watt version is less
elegant than the 10-watt (my opinion only, of course), and the K3 has
several advantages:  it's more modern technology, it's more capable,
and it isn't much more expensive for comparable features.  The CW-only
K2 is an incredible value, but if you add SSB, KAT2, KIO2, and 6
meters the K3 is cheaper (? is that true?  pretty close, anyway.)

   Peter W0LLN

On Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 2:34 PM, jez j...@gmx.de wrote:

 Hi,
 being a SWL for more or less about 20 years I just completed my HAM license
 in germany.


 So here my questions:
- apart from maybe a
 multimeter, there is no additional measurement equipment needed to build up
 and adjust the K2 (e.g. no noise generator, spectrum analyzer needed). Am I
 correct?

 # Power connector...how do I connect the K2 to the 230V we are using in
 germany?


does
 the KAT2 (20 watt internal ATU) also include a SWR meter?



 thomas
 --
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Re: [Elecraft] LDG

[Peter Wollan]

Elecraft **does** build a $699 radio.  Actually, $690.  Check it out,
it's pretty good.

   Peter W0LLN

On Fri, Jun 18, 2010 at 1:20 PM, Jim Miller KG0KP
jimmil...@stl-online.net wrote:
... (NO, I don't think Elecraft should build a 699 radio).
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 fan noise, part XXLIV

[Peter Wollan]

The p-value is 0.07 (Fisher Exact test).  Not dramatically
significant, but well above the statistically virtually meaningless
level.

You might write back to your respondents and see if there are any
differences in the K3s, such as the amount of empty space inside, or
in settings.

   Peter W0LLN

On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 1:28 PM, Joe Planisky jp...@jeffnet.org wrote:
 Since the responses to my inquiry about K3 fan brands/models have
 virtually stopped, I thought I'd post the results.  There are indeed
 at least 2 different fans in use in K3s:

(snip)

 UTEC Quiet   3
 UTEC Loud:   4
 Elina Quiet: 6
 Elina Loud:  0

 With such a small sample of self-reported anecdotes of a subjective
 perception, the results of this little survey are statistically
 virtually meaningless.
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Re: [Elecraft] Mac OS X and K3 Utility Opinions?

[Peter Wollan]

I never got Rumlog running, because I had trouble installing MySQL --
I'm sure persistence would have overcome this, eventually.  What's
this Skookum Logger?  Google doesn't find it.

 Peter N8MHD

On Sat, May 1, 2010 at 8:03 AM, N1JM johnn...@gmail.com wrote:

 Works great on my Macbook Pro-Rumlog, K3 Utility, Skookum Logger. Now if only
 someone could write a program for the Mac to use LP-PAN or SDR-IQ...
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Mac-OS-X-and-K3-Utility-Opinions-tp4986476p4989947.html
 Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 speaker connector / iPod keyer

[Peter Wollan]

I can't find this app on the iTunes Store, even with spelling
variations.  There are several straight key apps, but no iambic that I
can find.  Can you give a more detailed source for iDitDahtext?

The keyer circuit sounds interesting -- does it do a PTT from audio input?

Peter N8MHD

On Tue, Mar 23, 2010 at 9:42 PM, Mike Markowski mike.ab...@gmail.com wrote:

 ... an avid iPod Touch user.  He put iDitDahText on it so that he
 can web surf, text, email, all with cw input via an iambic keyer on the
 iPod screen. ...  So now the ipod keys the rig (no modulated cw)

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 crystal filter question

[Peter Wollan]

You can get a pretty good frequency display from CocoaModem.

Peter N8MHD

On Sat, Feb 27, 2010 at 8:07 AM, lstavenhagen lstavenha...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Ok thanks Don. I'll be darned hi hi.
 Unfortunately, I'm Mac only so can't use Spectrogram.  It's not really
 critical tho as the chances of me adding the SSB module are pretty close to
 zero.

 Will Spectrogram work in a Windows VM (i.e. through VMWare)? If so might be
 nice to tweak the filter settings for CW anyway...

 Tnx es 73,
 LS
 W5QD
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://n2.nabble.com/K2-crystal-filter-question-tp4642184p4645038.html
 Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Thoughts on internal vs external ATU for K3

[Peter Wollan]

This isn't true, is it?  It's certainly not the case for the K1 or K2
tuners, and I can't believe that the K3 is less capable.

Peter N8MHD


On Wed, Feb 24, 2010 at 1:52 PM, Steve Ellington n...@carolina.rr.com wrote:
 I'm afraid you have the wrong concept of the internal tuner. Every time you
 change bands, you must push the ATU Tune button.
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[Elecraft] Re: Field Day Antenna Setup

[Peter Wollan]

I couldn't see a price for the Blue Sky mast, but anything that high
quality has to be expensive.  What about a spiderbeam on one of their
50' aluminum masts?  (www.spiderbeam.us)  Or, the MFJ fiberglass mast
at 40'.  Last year for FD we built a hexbeam and put it up about 50'
-- it was wonderful.  DX Engineering sells a hexbeam center plate that
we'll buy this year, if we do it again.

These are all 20-15-10, of course.  Decent gain, good F/B, and published specs.

Like donated computer equipment  -- a donated antenna may not fit your purpose.

    Peter N8MHD

On Sat, Feb 6, 2010 at 9:07 PM, Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.com wrote:

 I'm looking at a mast setup from Blue Sky Masts
 (http://www.blueskymast.com)
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Tools

[Peter Wollan]

The Elecraft dummy load DL1 can be used as a watt meter, using a DMM.

 Peter

On Sat, Dec 12, 2009 at 8:33 AM, Phil Hystad k7...@comcast.net wrote:
 Don and Chuck,

 Thanks for the explanations.  I will probably get the XG2 kit just because it 
 is yet another kit to build but I doubt that I will get such a meter.  Well, 
 maybe I will if I can find a cheap working on somewhere.  No rush though.  I 
 just realized though that I doubt that I have anything that can measure under 
 5 watts with any degree of accuracy.

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Re: [Elecraft] Random Wire from KAT2

[Peter Wollan]

It works fine on the K2, also.  If you direct-connect ladderline in
this way, you can get unbalanced currents on the feedline, which may
distort the antenna pattern some but otherwise work fine as well.

The KAT2 is one of the nicest K2 modules., both to build and to use.

Peter N8MHD


On Thu, Oct 29, 2009 at 4:02 PM, Nick Garner nwgar...@gmail.com wrote:
 Howdy Folks,
 I usually run my KX1 like this http://n3wg.com/kx1.jpg, with wire straight
 off the antenna connector using the internal tuner.  I've had my K2 for
 about 8 years now and I'd like to add the internal tuner.  Is anyone running
 wire straight off the KAT2 antenna connectors when portable or can you see
 any problems with doing this with the KAT2?

 Thank you and 73,
 Nick
 N3WG
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Re: [Elecraft] Re： [K2] XV50 vs FT817?

[Peter Wollan]

Thanks to all for the feedback, comparing these two VHF solutions.
Unfortunately, it's still not an obvious decision.  I'm inclined to go
with the XV-50, because I need another kit to build ...

   Peter N8MHD
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Re: [Elecraft] KFK1-2 Question

[Peter Wollan]

Curt,

Switching filter boards on the K1 is quick, but enough of a pain that
I find I don't do it often.  Unscrew the top cover, unscrew the tuner
(if you have it, which you should, I think), lift out the tuner, lift
out the filter board, plug in the new board, screw in the tuner, screw
the top back on, go to the menu and reset the bands.  A tip:  use a
couple of toothpicks to line up the spacers under the tuner, and to
hold one of them while you're putting the long screw in the other.

Maybe only two minutes total, but not something you do just to see
what's happening on the band.

Peter N8MHD

 Curt wrote:
(snip) especially, switching out
 filter boards from time to time.   Regards, Curt, KB5JO

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[Elecraft] [K2] XV50 vs FT817?

[Peter Wollan]

An XV50 + KIO2, adding on to a QRP K2, is getting within shouting
distance of the cost of an FT817.  Could someone comment on the
relative merits, for use as a first multimode VHF rig?  My guess is
that the XV50 is better, but does less.  In addition to just exploring
on CW and SSB, I'd want to participate in some VHF CW contests.

Peter N8MHD
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Re: [Elecraft] Off-Topic: CW sending vs. recieving speed

[Peter Wollan]

This is a seductive argurment, but it's specious.  People have been
talking a long time, so why can't they use cell phones while driving?

The problem is that doing anything other than driving while you're
driving leads to inattention or distraction -- and a dramatic increase
in the likelihood of a wreck.  You may feel that you're not like other
people, you can tell when you're not driving well, and you can handle
it.  Drunk drivers think that way too.

I like the idea of mobile CW, and I admire the people who can do it.
But I'm not going to do it myself.

Peter N8MHD

On Fri, Aug 7, 2009 at 11:40 PM, dave.wilb...@verizon.net wrote:
 Your inability to perceive the problem is (likely) directly proportional to 
 the years you have been doing code. ;)

 I did code mobile for the first time recently. Coming back from dropping my 
 son off at Camp Lejeune. It was the New Eng. QSO party.  My paddles were the 
 buttons on the mic of a 706.  It was lots of listening up front. Then just 
 reply to their call.

 I didn't try running a freq while driving.  You have to save something to 
 shoot for.

 David Wilburn
 NM4M
 Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

 -Original Message-
 From: .k8dd. k...@inbox.com

 Date: Fri, 07 Aug 2009 17:43:55
 To: Grant Youngmann...@tx.rr.com
 Cc: Elecraft_List Reflectorelecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Off-Topic:  CW sending vs. recieving speed


 I've never understood that line of thought.
 Why would you take target practice at little tykes?  That's unreal.

 On the other hand people will talk on cell phones while driving and
 people will pick up a microphone and talk on 2m.  That's all ok.  But
 talk about talking on cw . You don't have a cell phone or a
 microphone to drop if things go wrong - just take your hand off the key
 or paddle and let it sit there.
 And what's the difference between copying phone or CW in your head?
 That's not an argument either!
 I've just never understood the comments that get made about mobile CW.

 73     :^]
 Hank    K8DD



 Grant Youngman wrote:
 Hmmm .. I can't use my cell phone when driving through a school zone
 here, even with a hands-free.  I wonder if I could get away with
 taking target practice at the little tykes walking to school while
 sending mobile CW :-)

 Grant/NQ5T

 always sent around 25-30 WPM. I could never send as well as I could
 copy
 when mobile, due to the car bouncing off potholes, other vehicles,
 etc.
 ;-) As I got older, my sending speed fell below my copy speed even at
 home.  Regardless, unless I get a QRS request, I assume someone
 answering my CQ can copy the speed I used.


 
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Re: [Elecraft] Workaround for providing automatic SSB CW VFO offset

[Peter Wollan]

It looks like the difference between this process and send CW while
in SSB which was added a while ago, is that with this you switch to
the CW filters.  Is that right?

Peter N8MHD


On 6/11/09, Bill W5WVO w5...@cybermesa.net wrote:
 A number of VHF ops on the list (myself included) have been lobbying for some 
 time for a feature that is standard on most or all HF+VHF Ikensu rigs: the 
 ability to have the VFO automatically offset by the amount of the BFO pitch 
 when switching between SSB and CW. This capability is typically of little 
 interest to HF operators, where SSB and CW are rigidly separated into two 
 distinct sub-bands. On VHF and UHF, SSB and CW are used interchangeably, as 
 needed, on the same (SSB) frequencies.

 I've already had extensive discussions with Wayne about this; the problem is, 
 due to the software design architecture of the K3, it's not as easy to 
 implement as it sounds like it should be.

 The performance objective for switching from SSB to CW (CW to SSB is simply 
 the reverse) is for ONE button tap to accomplish:

  (a) shifting the VFO frequency up (or down) 700 Hz (nominal pitch)
  (b) switching the K3 from USB to CW REV (or from LSB to CW)
  (c) bringing into play a pre-configured set of CW characteristics that go 
 with the transmission mode

 The workaround I've come up with accomplishes this, at the expense of having 
 a free VFO B to play with. On VHF/UHF, however, there is virtually no split 
 operation (except satellites), so this isn't as big a deal as it sounds like.

 Here's how to do it, assuming USB and a pitch offset of 700 Hz (substitute 
 your own pitch setting if not 700):

 (1) Set MODE to USB, and set up all desired RX characteristics for this mode 
 in the normal fashion.

 (2) Set display resolution to FINE so it displays Hz (three decimal places).

 (3) Tap A/B button, and repeat Step 2.

 (4) Now set each VFO in turn (select using the A/B button) such that one is 
 zeroed out (xx.xxx.000), and the other displays xx.xxx.700.

 (5) Hold SUB and notice that the display says LINK. The two VFOs are now 
 locked together and will track 700 Hz apart.

 (6) Use the A/B button to select the VFO with the +700 Hz offset. This will 
 be your CW VFO.

 (7) Set MODE to CW REV, which will give you the same tuning direction as USB.

 (8) Set up all desired RX characteristics for this mode in the normal fashion.

 This completes the setup. From now on, a tap of the A/B button will switch 
 from USB to CW REV or from CW REV to USB, and the VFO will automatically be 
 set to the correct frequency, removing the requirement of retuning to acquire 
 the signal.

 RIT can still be used in the normal manner, but the offset will be carried on 
 RX when switching from one VFO to the other. Depending on what you're trying 
 to do, this may or may not be a good thing. Just be mindful of the behavior.

 Please critique these instructions if you find anything unclear.

 Bill W5WVO
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3: Limit output power with KPA3?

[Peter Wollan]

If you tune using the TUNE button instead of by keying, you can set
the power to any desired limit.  See page 27 of the manual.

Peter N8MHD

On 5/14/09, K3JPS k3jps@gmail.com wrote:
 Well obviously it is the power control.  What I simply wanted to know was
 whether or not the ability existed to set software limits on that physical
 control.  To me, it doesn't seem like a hard thing to implement in firmware.

 The reason for asking is I'm limited in terms of how much output power I can
 run with an amplifier.  If I wanted to tune with max drive being
 40-50 watts, then I wanted to know if there was a way of setting limits on
 the power control knob.  I've made the mistake of adjusting power output
 instead of compression on more than one occasion.

 73 James

 On Thu, May 14, 2009 at 12:10 PM, David Ferrington, M0XDF 
 m0...@alphadene.co.uk wrote:

  surely this is the PWR control - there is no way to set an upper limit as
  far as I know.
  73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
  --
  Do not meddle in the affairs of Dragons,
  For you are crunchy and taste good with ketchup!
 
 
  On 14 May 2009, at 17:07, K3JPS wrote:
 
 
  Dear all,
 
  I've checked the KPA3 manual along with the K3 manual, and didn't find any
  mention of a way to limit maximum output power with the KPA3.
 
  What I'd like to know then, is there something buried within the menu that
  would allow me to set max output to something like 30 - 40 watts?  That
  way
  if I inadvertently adjust the CMP/PWR knob when it's set to PWR (and I
  mean
  to adjust compression instead), that it doesn't go above a pre-defined
  setting?
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 with Issues

[Peter Wollan]

I read Chuck's description of his problem, and I thought, What in the
world?

Don Wilhelm deserves a round of applause for this diagnosis.

 Peter N8MHD


On 4/16/09, cstove...@aol.com cstove...@aol.com wrote:


 Hi Don,

 Your comment about using flux cleaner struck a nerve with me.? I didn't
 have any cleaner at the time of completion and obtained some a while back.?
 I don't remember exactly when.? I had an idle mind and hands one day and
 opened up the K1 to spiff things up.? I let it dry for a week and put it
 back together and it worked fine.

 The keying misbehaved a little during the previous use of the K1.? I
 cleaned the paddle contacts and reseated the plug and all seemed well.?
 Problem solved, or so I thought.? These two events probably relate.

 At first opportunity I will make the voltage checks and take a look under
 the key jack. I'll post the results.? Right now I'm off to install an
 antenna on my Volunteer Fire Departments new utility truck.

 Thanks.

 73,? Chuck K4QS







 -Original Message-
 From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
 To: cstove...@aol.com
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 8:47 am
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 with Issues









 Chuck,?
 ?

 Make certain you have a dummy load connected to the K1 (it is
 transmitting) and continually tap the WPM- button to try to lower the
 power level for the testing that you need to do.?
 ?

 Theory:?

 The K1 uses one MCU pin (KEYIN) as an analog input to determine whether
 the dot paddle, dash paddle or both have been closed.  The resistors
 that determine the 3 levels are on the RF Board.?

 R19, R20, and 2 sections of RP5.  The voltage at pins 4 and 5 of RP5
 will determine the static voltage of all points in the circuit.?
 ?

 What to do:?

 Measure the voltage at pins 4 and 5 of RF Board RP5 and compare with the
 voltage at Front Panel U1 pin 5.  They should be the very close to the
 same voltage.  If not, check the values of R19 and R20 and re-flow the
 soldering of RP5, R19 and R20.?
 ?

 If you had ever attempted to clean the flux from your K1, that could be
 the cause.  If some flux cleaner residue wicked up under the key jack,
 it can create a leakage path which would explain your problem.  The only
 cure is to remove the key jack and clean both the board area under the
 jack and the bottom of the key jack.?
 ?

 It is conceivable that the key jack itself could have some kind of
 leakage path inside.  To check, you will have to remove the key jack and
 replace it if necessary.?
 ?

 Do the solder re-flow first - a bad connection can work fine for a
 while, and then fail later after a bit of oxidation occurs.  If that
 does not cure it, remove the key jack and check again with the jack
 out.  Replace the key jack if required.?
 ?

 73,?

 Don W3FPR?
 ?

 cstove...@aol.com wrote:?

  My K1 (sn2450) went together back in Oct 07 without a hitch and has been
 working flawlessly ever since.?

 ?

  A big glitch showed up tonight.? When I pushed the attenuator button it
 started transmitting dashes.? That cleared by cycling the power.? I then
 tried sending the content of memory 1.? It began sending that message,
 stopped, end appeared in the display, then started transmitting
 alternating dots and dashes.? When locked in transmit, the display blanks
 out.? Initially I verified that it was transmitting with another receiver,
 but now it seems to have lost output too.? It was hooked up to a resonant
 antenna or dummy load, so I wouldn't think the final fried.? I'm running it
 off a supply at 13.6VDC.?
 ?

  A voltage check of RA3 pin 5 of the MCU shows 5.6V with both dot and dash
 contacts open.? When the WPM-/attn button is held the dashes start sending
 and the pin 5 voltage drops to 5.0 even? though the contacts are still
 open.?

 ?

  I've been awake too long and not much is making sense, so I'm going to
 call it a night.? Any ideas or suggestions on where to look would be greatly
 appreciated.?

 ?

  Chuck? K4QS
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 ?

 ?

  No virus found in this incoming message.?

  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
  Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.11.57/2060 - Release Date:
 04/15/09 06:34:00?

 ?

 




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Re: [Elecraft] Subreceiver

[Peter Wollan]

Sorry, I don't see what's wanted here.  How is listening to only the
subreceiver any different from operating split?



On Fri Apr 10 11:31 , Ruben Navarro Huedo  sent:

Hello friends:
Today we have been testing the K3 (with sub installed) for our S04R
expedition.
We want listen Subreceiver (and only sub) in both ears, not only the right.
Is this possible?

TNX a lot.

--
Rubén Navarro Huedo - EA5BZ
http://www.palotes.com
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[Elecraft] [K2] CW contest software for Macintosh?

[Peter Wollan]

My K2 doesn't have the computer interface.  It does key CW nicely in Vox
using CocoaModem, though.  And CocoaModem has a contest logging feature
which seems to work pretty well.  Has anyone tried using it for CW contests
which don't fit the format of the RTTY contests that are built in (eg CQ
WPX, ARRL Field Day)?  The macro keys can be edited to send anything, so
sending seems to be sufficiently flexible for any contest.  But there's a
validity check built into the logger that gets unhappy if the exchange looks
too different.  And yet, cmd-L usually makes it go ahead and log anyway.
Does this really work?

Alternatively, is there other software for the mac that I should be looking
at?  RumPED seems to require a MicroHam keyer.  I've tried N3FJP running
under Crossover, and it logs ok but quits after each QSO, which would be
pretty distracting ...

Is there a program that works well on the mac which uses the K2 computer
interface, if I were to get that?

Thanks,
  Peter N8MHD
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[Elecraft] [K2] CW contest software for Macintosh?

[Peter Wollan]

My K2 doesn't have the computer interface.  It does key CW nicely in Vox
using CocoaModem, though.  And CocoaModem has a contest logging feature
which seems to work pretty well.  Has anyone tried using it for CW contests
which don't fit the format of the RTTY contests that are built in (eg CQ
WPX, ARRL Field Day)?  The macro keys can be edited to send anything, so
sending seems to be sufficiently flexible for any contest.  But there's a
validity check built into the logger that gets unhappy if the exchange looks
too different.  And yet, cmd-L usually makes it go ahead and log anyway.
Does this really work?

Alternatively, is there other software for the mac that I should be looking
at?  RumPED seems to require a MicroHam keyer.  I've tried N3FJP running
under Crossover, and it logs ok but quits after each QSO, which would be
pretty distracting ...

Is there a program that works well on the mac which uses the K2 computer
interface, if I were to get that?

Thanks,
  Peter N8MHD
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 receiver desensing on CW during contest

[Peter Wollan]

Aha.  It sounds like the desense problem arises when the DSP filter
is narrower than the roofing filter.  A strong station within the
roofing passband but outside the DSP passband will shut down the
receiver through AGC.

I think we all misled ourselves by the impression that desense was
impossible in the K3.  It's working just as it ought -- but operators
need to widen out the DSP to the full width of the roofing filter,
when there are strong stations every few Hz.  A bit counter-intuitive,
perhaps.

   Peter N8MHD



On 2/23/09, K2MK k...@comcast.net wrote:
 Hi Wayne and all:

 My filters are 200, 400, 1.0, 1.8 and 2.7 and they are all CW enabled.  I
 was using headphones and my sub RX was off. My serial number is 2208 and the
 radio was factory assembled (including the sub RX).

 I did not hear key clicks when this was happening. The off frequency
 transmissions were clean. I also made a point of observing the signal
 strength of the offending stations and they were usually S8 or S9. Not the
 20db or 40db over S9 that I was expecting.

 I thought it was interesting that recovery was noticeably slow on the DX
 station's frequency when this was happening. However, under normal
 conditions when US stations were calling directly on top of the DX station,
 recovery was fast. Hence the ability to copy the DX station through the dits
 when the QRM was on frequency.

 Maybe a passband shift could of helped. I would like to see the shift limits
 changed to something less than 50Hz. Maybe 10Hz on CW and 50Hz on other
 modes.

 I appreciate the interesting ideas from K6LL and W4ZV. Unfortunately I'll
 have to wait for the next busy contest to try them out. This just isn't the
 type of condition you can experience under normal band conditions.

 73,
 Mike K2MK



 wayne burdick
 Sun, 22 Feb 2009 18:26:03 -0800

 Mike,

 The K3 is virtually desense-proof, with a BDR of ~140 dB. But to take
 advantage of this, you need a narrow crystal filter -- the closer to
 the DSP bandwidth the better. This is exactly the situation that we had
 in mind when we designed the 200-Hz 5-pole filter. For CW pileups, you
 can't beat it.

 What crystal filter were you using at the time?

 Of course if the transmitting stations are wide due to key clicks,
 there may be situations where no amount of filtering can help (for any
 receiver). The DSP noise blanker and NR may be useful sometimes -- you
 might give this a try.

 Wayne
 N6KR

 On Feb 22, 2009, at 4:45 PM, K2MK wrote:

  I had a great time with my K3 during the ARRL DX contest. I do SP and
  I was
  trolling around with my filter width at 50Hz. Absolutely outstanding.
  The
  auto spot is equally outstanding.
 
  At 50Hz width it was quite clear that many stations call off frequency.
  Using RIT, I could see that it was typical for them to be 70Hz or more
  away
  from the DX station but I could not hear them in my 50Hz passband. The
  real
  problem was when one of them was S9 or greater. They completely swamped
  weaker DX stations.


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 and PSK

[Peter Wollan]

I think it's impossible to send PSK31 using the K1.  PSK requires
sending at least two tones, and the K1 is CW only -- just one tone.
It is possible, in principle, to send Feld-Hell, but I don't know of
any software that will do it -- the ones I know of are soundcard
generated, like PSK.

Receiving digital modes is easy, though -- just run a stereo cable
from the external speaker plug on the K1 to sound-in on the iMac.
CocoaModem is the best software I've found to decode.

   Peter N8MHD


On 1/30/09, John Wiener ja...@fuse.net wrote:
 Happy to report that my freshly built K1 is OTA

 Can someone direct me to information on how to hook up my SL1+ to the
 K1 to do PSK?
 I use an iMac and already have USB interface between it and the
 signalink.  Need to know how to do PTT.

 Thanks,

 John
 AB8O
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Re: [Elecraft] SSB IMD

[Peter Wollan]

This is possible, but, as far as I know, it is untested.  I've read
several anecdotes claiming poor SSB performance, and several others
claiming excellent SSB performance.  What's needed is for someone to
take one of the poor K3's, and change some factor that turns it into
an excellent K3.  Such as, plug it into a better power supply, and
show that one power supply consistently produces good results and
another consistently produces bad results.

I predict that the power supply claim will turn out to be bogus.  The
K2 has voltage regulators all through it, and runs well down to -- is
it 10 volts?  The K3 needs a bit more oomph, but I'll bet Wayne
designed it to be robust, too.  I further predict that the bad SSB
performance will turn out to be either an adjustment issue, or an
external amplifier issue.  I'd love to see some experiments.

   Peter N8MHD

On 1/27/09, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:


  Is there something critical in the radio that
  gives this outcome? Critical adjustment perhaps?
  Is it very sensitive what PS we use (ala W4ZV)?

 Yes, it is very sensitive to power supply voltage.
 Look at any of the application notes - the one
 Craig mentions for the P-P RD100HHF FETs is a
 good example.  Decreasing Vcc (or Vdd) by just
 one Volt will increase the IMD at 100 Watts by
 10 dB and decrease the maximum output power by
 almost 20 Watts.

 Running the power supply at 14.0 - 14.5 Volts and
 using a power supply with good dynamic regulation
 will go a long way to keeping the K3 clean.

 73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


  -Original Message-
  From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
  [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jan Erik Holm
  Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 1:54 AM
  Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SSB IMD
 
 
  Yes I´ve seen those figures, there are are lot of
  data from component manufactures however by the
  time we see the finished product data doesn´t
  even come close.
 
  I tried to look for the data on the FT-990 that
  K6LL informed about but couldn´t find it. I was
  thinking what reference level they used, I think
  I remember ARRL changed their procedure, the -38
  prity well could be -32 in real life.
 
  However, something struck me, why is it we see
  this big variation in data on the IMD3? We have
  a spread between -38 to -24 dB. A number of
  people has measured below -30 dB and as far as
  I know only one around -38 dB. Who is right
  and who is wrong?
  Is there something critical in the radio that
  gives this outcome? Critical adjustment perhaps?
  Is it very sensitive what PS we use (ala W4ZV)?
 
  As I said before, here I am first time on 20m
  SSB and people report trash around my signal,
  i e bad IMD. However at that time I had K3 at
  120W, aftter I´ve made measurements and it
  looks like something slowly starts to happen
  at 80W.
  Also I have myself heard K3´s on SSB with trash
  around the signal however I have also heard
  K3´s that did NOT have that.
  So what´s going on here, I´m getting reel puzzled
  and frankly quite tired of this.
 
  I wish there would be a service manual available,
  like there is for any Japanese rice box. I mean
  a manual that contains all data for all adjustments.
  Why not??
 
  / Jim SM2EKM
  ---
  Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
  
   Jan Erik Holm wrote:
   Bill and others, hold on and think about these
   figures. -35 to -38 dB IM3 !! We are dealing
   with 2SC2782 transistors operating at around
   12V DC. I say no more, the knowledge and intelligent
   individual will understand.
  
   I would be careful here ... the Toshiba 2SC2879 data sheet
   clearly does -38dB IMD at 60 watts with VCC=12.5V.  There
   are certainly devices capable of that level of performance
   means that there are devices capable of that level just as
   there are devices capable of similar levels of performance
   at 120-140 watts per device with Vcc=28V.
  
   I would expect the 2SC2879 to also be capable of this level
   of performance ... if not, I would have expected the design
   of the KPA3 to have been based on another device.
  
   73,
  
  ... Joe, W4TV
  



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 feature request - I want Ducking!

[Peter Wollan]

I still don't understand this notion.  For CW, don't you obtain this
effect simply by turning down the sidetone volume?  On transmit,
receive is already muted.

 Peter

On 1/20/09, Darwin, Keith keith.dar...@goodrich.com wrote:
 Ducking is a commercial radio / sound industry technique of attenuating
 the music when the DJ talks.  In the old days, the DJ at the radio
 station would just pan down the music volume whenever he spoke into the
 mic.  These days, recording studios will use a compressor with a
 separate trigger (side chain) input.  The compressor is set to attenuate
 20 dB or so whenever there is something on the trigger input.  You run
 the music through the compressor and feed the voice to the trigger.
 Then, when you talk, the compressor is activated, forcing the music to
 duck under the vocals.  Close your mouth and a moment later the music
 rushes back to full volume.

 - Keith N1AS -
 - K3 711 -

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken Kopp
 Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 11:56 AM

 What is ducking, as you call it here?

 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 elecraftcov...@rfwave.net

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 KX1 K1 More advice sought on Elecraft radios

[Peter Wollan]

I can only compare the K1 and the K2.  They are both great kits, but
after that they don't really compare.  The K2 is a full-featured rig,
and the K1 is a special-purpose, trail-friendly CW rig.  The K1sounds
great, and has filters, and what it does, it does very well.  I don't
notice any difference in MDS.  However, I tried, once, to use my K1 at
our club's Field Day, near a high-power station. It was completely
swamped by anything transmitting even two bands away.  In contrast,
the K2 is happy with another station on the same band, as long as the
antennas aren't too close and there's some space between the
frequencies.

I think your numbers for the 703 are way too good.  Look at the rig
comparison chart on the Elecraft site -- the numbers are pulled from
ARRL reviews, for the most part.  Unfortunately, the K1 and KX1 aren't
there, but the 703 is.

  Peter N8MHD
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[Elecraft] K2 power cord?

[Peter Wollan]

I just saw on the Elecraft order page that the K2 now has an option  
for an assembled power cord with PowerPoles, like the K3.  Does that  
mean that the K2 no longer uses a barrel plug for power?  Or is it  
just a way to buy an APP end assembled, and the barrel plug still  
needs to be soldered on?


Peter N8MHD
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[Elecraft] FD: QRO + QRP with pwr multiplier

[Peter Wollan]

For this year and last year, I've added a QRP station to our club's  
QRO FD setup, but I submit it as a separate entry.  As far as I can  
tell, this is within both the rules and spirit of Field Day -- it  
provides another station, another example of radio use for anyone to  
check out, try, or just talk about, while I share in the social  
aspect of the club event instead of being off on my own.  And it lets  
me keep the 5x power multiplier, though without being able to add it  
in as a contribution to the club score.


I ran 1A-Battery (solar), using the call W0SAA, while the rest were  
5A using W0SA (having those two calls available was a coincidence,  
but cute).  The QRP station was my K2, with two wire antennas, a bit  
away from the main stations, which this year consisted of four  
kilowatt stations, plus a 100-watt digital station and a VHF  
station.  I was off to the side a bit, but still within the 1000-foot  
circle of the main group.  Our club is dominated by high-power  
people, but the QRP station got some interest.  Several people came  
by to talk about kits and backpack radios, and one person tried CW  
contesting for the first time -- less threatening without an amp, maybe?


Interference was an issue, but mostly ignorable.  But then, the QRO  
stations had problems with each other, too.  One of the four was a  
K3, and it, too, had some problems, particularly with one specific  
transmitter.  I haven't heard a good account of that yet.  Someone  
here mentioned using a K1 near other stations -- I tried that a few  
years ago, and found that I couldn't hear anything when any other  
transmitter was operating, even a band away.  I haven't tried my K1  
again in this kind of shared space, but I'm surprised anything less  
robust than a K2 could handle it.


I'm not a competent contester yet -- I got 154 contacts, all CW SP  
-- but I had a darn good time.


Peter N8MHD
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[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft K1 as my first HF rig??

[Peter Wollan]

Jeremy,

I built a K1 as my first HF rig, and thoroughly enjoyed it.  It's  
limited, but within its limitations it's very good indeed.  Since  
your budget is $300, I'd recommend the two-band board on 20m and 40m,  
and the 150K tuning range.  There's CW activity well beyond 80, and  
you can also listen to some LSB on 40m and digital on every band,  
even if you can't reply to those.  The autotuner gives a lot of  
freedom, and lets you operate with a much wider range of antennas.


Still, the K1 will be absorbing all of your budget.  Another rig to  
consider is a $120 40m-only kit by Hendricks kits www.qrpkits.com,  
the MMR-40, which does both CW and SSB.  I don't know much about it,  
and it's certainly less polished than the K1, but as a starter it  
might let you do more, particularly if you add a T1 tuner to it.  40m  
has enough going on to keep you active -- and learning -- for a long  
time.


I finally got a K2 a year ago, and it opens up new worlds.  And VHF  
is yet another new world.  Unfortunately, I think there's no cheap  
way to do radio.  It's an expensive sport, but less expensive than  
golf, or scuba, or flying airplanes.


Peter N8MHD
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Re: RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net - dual band / dual hour proposal

[Peter Wollan]

I was actually using only 10 watts, not 100.  Bruce could barely hear me
(Minnesota to Ohio), so I didn't try to correct him.  I could hear Jim (NC)
clearly, but I could only tell Windy was there when Bruce was talking to
him.  

On 14.192, I couldn't hear anything.  Tuning around on 20, I heard KH, ZL,
6Y, and CE, but of course they couldn't hear me.  Having a good receiver can
be frustrating.

Peter N8MHD


Windy Dankoff KM5Q wrote:
 
 
 
 Here is the full list of check-ins last night on 7.192 at 0130:
 
 Windy KM5Q, net catalyst, K3
 Roger WA7BOC, faithful sidekick K3
 Bruce W8FU, new K3, first time in net, took control with best signal  
 1KW to a beam
 Jim K4JAF, expecting K3 in a month
 Peter N8MHD, K2/100
 and a nod to Gary N7HTS for making the effort
 
 At 0230, conditions were better, but only Roger and I reappeared,  
 first on 20, then better on 40. Keep this later time in mind, please.
 
 Windy KM5Q
 Santa Fe, NM
 
 

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/Elecraft-SSB-Net---dual-band---dual-hour-proposal-tp17346228p17440999.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 INSTALL - RX LOST

[Peter Wollan]

This sounds a lot like a problem I had installing the KNB2 (which  
still isn't solved, regrettably).  The cables between the top cover  
and the main boards of the K2 have a variety of connections, and they  
can get flexed in taking the cover off.  In my case, the ground  
shield broke at the KAT2 -- somehow this allowed strong signals to  
leak through anyway, giving a mostly deaf K2.  Resoldering the shield  
and removing the KNB2 restored full receive.  (I'm still slowly  
trying to figure out what's wrong with the KNB2).


Tracking the complete receive path is hard.  Look first for bad  
connections where signals go in or out of the added modules.


And keep telling yourself you'll get it working perfectly someday ...

Peter N8MHD
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[Elecraft] logging software for Mac

[Peter Wollan]

Does anyone happen to know if the N1MM logger runs under Crossover  
Mac? (this is a MacOSX version of WINE).


Peter N8MHD
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[Elecraft] K2 SSB digital modes

[Peter Wollan]

(Brian WB6RQN asks for an easy way to do digital modes on a K2, for  
his Montessori school rig:)


If you have a Mac, the soundcard SSB modes can be done easily.  I use  
CocoaModem.  Receive needs only a stereo cable from the K2, either  
the headphones jack or the aux speaker, to the mic input on the  
computer.  On recent Macs, at least, the mic input is isolated and  
needs no transformer -- just straight stereo plug to stereo plug.   
Vox works very well for transmitting;  it needs a cable with stereo  
plug on the computer end (into the headphones socket) and a voltage  
divider on the K2's mic plug (two resistors soldered into an 8-pin  
plug).   Specifications are on the Elecraft web site, in Builder  
Resources, PSK31with the K2 by WA7SPY.  Setting the vox level takes  
some fiddling, but just in the computer output volume, not in the  
K2.  If you don't want to use vox, you need more hardware to get the  
PTT line out a USB port.


CocoaModem is exceptionally good software, by Kok Chen, W7AY http:// 
homepage.mac.com/chen/index.html.   His CocoaNec is great, too.   
Both are free.  There are a couple of modes that CocoaModem doesn't  
do -- SSTV is available in MacRobot, but some modes just aren't  
available on a mac.


Peter N8MHD
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[Elecraft] K2: added KNB2, now mostly deaf.

[Peter Wollan]

Well.  I put in the noise blanker, and it was recognized, but receive  
was mostly deaf.  I checked the caps suggested in the manual, pulled  
the toroids and re-tinned them, and reheated all the solder joints  
with no improvement.  So I pulled the noise blanker, and tacked back  
in the resistors and W5 -- and it's still deaf.  Mostly deaf -- I can  
hear stations on 40, particularly with the pre-amp on, and one or two  
on 80 and 30.  It seems to be completely deaf on the higher bands,  
though that could be the weather.


The resistors R88, 89, 90 are just tacked in.  Could a bad connection  
there produce this?  Could it be a component somewhere nearby, maybe  
damaged while changing resistors?  Could I have knocked it out of  
alignment somehow?  I'm thinking that I should re-align next;  are  
there things I should check before doing that?


And is there a way to test the noise blanker without pulling the  
resistors and starting this all over again?  Tapping Q21 with a  
screwdriver didn't produce any audible noise (and still doesn't, with  
the NB out).


Lots of questions -- I'm sure grateful for the people on this list,  
who are so incredibly helpful.


K2 #5578, QRP, with SSB and tuner.

Peter N8MHD
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[Elecraft] Re: KAT100 with Ladder Line

[Peter Wollan]

Please, I'd like some more discussion of this question.  I've seen  
before that baluns on ladder line can be lossy, but I'm not about to  
get a balanced tuner, so it doesn't really help.  What happens if you  
connect the balanced line directly to the KAT100?  Or, in my case, to  
the KAT2?  I haven't had any problems so far -- maybe low power makes  
a big difference, or maybe I've just had antennas which were  
reasonable in some way.  I gather it's possible to get unpleasant  
currents on the case, mic, or paddle.  Is that exactly the condition  
in which the balun will be lossy?  Does connecting the ground screw  
on the KAT2 (or the one on the balun?) alleviate the common mode  
current problems?


Peter N8MHD
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[Elecraft] RE: Next K2 Addon

[Peter Wollan]

what is the logical next step, auto-tuner or SSB board?

Both the auto-tuner and the SSB board make the K2 much more capable, and
I think you should do both -- in whatever order you want, over whatever
time period you want.  Give yourself Christmas or Birthday presents over
the next couple of years.  

But:  before you button up the basic K2, put in the connector for the
auto-tuner.  It's trivial before the heat sink is installed, while
removing the heat sink and re-installing it is an unpleasant job.  Most
unpleasant jobs are good for you -- they improve character -- but not
this one.

If you don't buy the KAT2 along with the basic kit, at least ask for the
connector and install it, just in case.  

Peter N8MHD

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[Elecraft] K2: KAT2 null adjustment

[Peter Wollan]

According to the manual, it should be possible to adjust the null to
000, and it should be a broad null.  On mine, it was extremely sharp,
and wouldn't get lower than 010, flickering to 011.  Does this indicate
a problem?  I went ahead and finished the installation -- the voltages
were fine, and the tuner seems to work just dandy.  

I'm using a homemade dummy load, which seems to test out ok at least at
the lower frequencies, and I don't have a calibrated wattmeter (yet,
will borrow one soon).  

Can/should the null be recalibrated, even though the resister has been
installed?

Peter N8MHD

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[Elecraft] RE: Elecraft Digest, Vol 39, Issue 20

[Peter Wollan]

I just discovered that certain pairs of my APPs don't mate with each
other, though they do mate properly with other pairs.  This is surely
due to not-quite-right assembly:  if the little aluminum thingy is
crimped too wide, it doesn't fit in right, and if it's shoved into the
plastic too hard or crooked it ends up in **almost** the right position
for contact.  APPs are very nice, but they can fail.

Peter N8MHD

Is there anyone out there who has -NOT- had satisfactory results with
Anderson Powerpoles?

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] K2 - KBT2 and solar power?

[Peter Wollan]

After using my K2 for its first Field Day, I now see a reason to install
the KBT2 built-in battery.  But, I particularly liked using solar power
-- a 10-watt panel running through Don Brown's solar charge controller
to a gel-cell battery in parallel with the radio while operating. Worked
really well.  Can something like that be done with the KBT2?  

The charge controller cuts off the solar panel when the battery gets to
about 14 volts, but it needs to be near the battery to sense the voltage
correctly.  The solar panel can generate 20 volts at 1/2 amp -- what
happens if this particular charge controller is plugged in between the
K2+KBT2 and the solar panel? My guess is that the controller would keep
the voltage down to 14 volts, but would never see the battery as fully
charged.  Do the diode and resistor in the KBT2 prevent overcharging?
It sounds less controlled than the KBT2 is designed for.  Anyone have
experience with this?

Peter N8MHD

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[Elecraft] RE: K2 - KBT2 and solar power

[Peter Wollan]

Thanks for all the responses.  I guess I could run a battery charging
cable out one of the unused holes -- not perfect, but certainly usable.
(I'm not willing to drill another hole).  It seems to make the
diode-resistor arrangement in the KBT2 irrelevant, though, particularly
since my normal power supply is a gel-cell.

My solar panel is the experimenter/budget 10 watt panel from
Connecticut Solar.  It's very nice -- gives over 15 volts even in shade,
and folds up in a zippered nylon cover.  It was about $100.  The charge
controller is a nifty little kit from Don Brown, about $25, I think.
It's not a way to save on electric bills, but it is interesting and fun.


Peter N8MHD

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[Elecraft] K2: sending PSK31

[Peter Wollan]

Following up on my earlier question, I can report that the minimal PSK31
interface described in the Elecraft Application Notes actually works.
For receive, I got a stereo cable with plugs on each end, running from
the K2 speaker jack to the computer line in, and for sending a stereo
cable from the computer earphone output goes to an 8-pin mic plug with
two resistors in it, 10K and 1K, as a voltage splitter.  Transmit is
keyed by vox.  No isolation tranformers, no USB mic converter.

Computer is a MacBook, software is Cocoamodem, and they work just dandy,
though I'd expect any other computer-software combination to work, too.
The hardest part of it all was locating an 8-pin mic plug for sale in
the US -- Cheapham.com came through.

Peter N8MHD


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[Elecraft] K2: sending PSK31

[Peter Wollan]

The documents on the Elecraft site suggest that sending PSK31 requires a
cable to the K2 mic plug, with a 10:1 voltage splitter to reduce speaker
voltage to mic levels, and a PTT switch which could be as simple as a
manual toggle.  Is the PTT switch needed?  Has anyone used vox on the K2
for this?

I'm using the excellent Cocoamodem program on a Macbook, so far only for
receive.  A simple stereo cable seems to work fine, and the program has
a spectrum display feature that works quite well for setting filters --
a substitute for Spectrogram.  Now I'd like to send, too.  It doesn't
look very hard, whether the PTT switch is needed or not, but it would be
nice to hear if someone else knows that vox either does or doesn't work.


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[Elecraft] What's a panadapter?

[Peter Wollan]

The K3 will have one (eventually), but what is it?  In some contexts it
sounds like an antenna analyzer, in others like a spectrum display.  And
... could someone explain where the name panadapter comes from?

Peter N8MHD


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[Elecraft] RE: K2 Purchase - opinions?

[Peter Wollan]

Adding options to the K2 is, generally speaking, very easy, and the
order doesn't matter a whole lot.  There is one exception:  some of the
options require parts to be placed on the back portion of the board.
The power transisters use the bottom back panel as a heat sink, and they
are assembled as a stack of transistor, washer, and heat transfer pad --
the assembly is not too bad on initial assembly, but trickier to
dismantle and reassemble.  It may require replacement of the pad.

So, there is a big advantage in putting the connectors (and a few
capacitors) in place to make ready for future options.  The parts are
described in the main K2 manual, but are only supplied in the option
kits.  (The re-work eliminators are also available, which add jumpers
to make removing options easier.)

Four of the options you list put something on the back part of the
board, so would require removing and replacing the heat sink if you
don't have the kits at hand on initial assembly.  Don Wilhelm says that
the KIO2 and KAT2 have no board headers, but he slipped here -- there's
a socket for the KAT2 that just tucks in behind the heat sink.  

The KAT2 is such a good option, maybe that socket could just be sent
along in the main kit, for people like me who don't look far enough
ahead? 

Peter N8MHD  

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[Elecraft] RE: K1 tuning rate... is 150 kHz too wide?

[Peter Wollan]

I have my K1 at 150 (actually about 175) kHz and I like it.  There's
quite a bit of activity above 7100, and there are the beacons at 14100.
If (when?) I get 30 meters, it will be nice to be able to check WWV.
Also, the K1 is capable of Hellschrieber, I think, though I haven't yet
found software that doesn't use SSB for this.  And if I get the Ten-tec
6m transverter, having the wider range on 20m is important.

The tuning is a bit twitchy, but not really difficult or fatiguing.  I
have no trouble zero-beating, or tuning the display to 14100.0, for
example. The only time I really had trouble with the tuning was in a
contest, using the memory buttons, my finger slipped and hit the tuning
knob -- but I've heard of that happening to others, it's a knob
placement thing, not tuning range.

Some people have written that they changed from 150 to 80.  I haven't
read of anyone changing from 80 to 150.  I think if you know you'll
never use the wider range, then the narrow range is better -- but if you
want to see what's out there, try the wider range and find out.
Replacing the cap is really pretty easy.

Peter N8MHD
--
(snip)
Does anyone out there use 150 kHz and LIKE it? Did anyone out there try
150 kHz and hate it and switch to 80 kHz?
(snip)
Pete  KF5ND


--

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