Re: [Elecraft] k2 audio power

2004-06-15 Thread Rick Dettinger
My Sony MDR 7506's have a DC resistance of 72 ohms per side.  Since the
phones are in parallel, the rig will see about 36 ohms.  I am not sure how
that relates to impedance but it seems in the ballpark.  Heating and
reactance would increase it some but I don't know by how much.  They are
comfortable and very sensitive.  I bought them because of good reviews on
eham.  73 - Rick - K7MW

 Sony MDR-7506 and MDR-V6 -- these are standard, large, closed headphones
with
 nice soft cushions, work for for long operating sessions.  These sell in
the
 $100 range.  Sony, being Sony, doesn't put impedance and sensitivity specs
on
 the data sheets that I have, but I suspect they are in the same range as
the
 ER4S's.



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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Net -- thanks, Kevin!

2004-06-17 Thread Rick Dettinger
I think its time for Kevin to give himself a promotion.  He has been Net
Control Operator, 5th class, long enough.   73,   Rick - K7MW- Original
Message -
 Elecraft page: http://www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Ultimatic Keying.

2005-02-19 Thread Rick Dettinger
I would like to see a squeeze option that would give a steady tone when the
paddle contacts are both closed.  This would restore keying control to the
operator.  I normally use a bug or straight key but use paddles with the KX1
when portable.  The bug is more than 5 times as heavy as the rig and does
not travel well.73 - Rick - K7MW
- Original Message -
From: Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ultimatic Keying.


 


 ..

 Confession time, have yet to master fully this new fangled Iambic Keying
 thing, so use the twin paddles like a single paddle bug. But the CW is
 'mechanical' not like bug produced CW, and a 'friendly' dit daaah dit
 cannot be sent!
 73,
 Geoff
 GM4ESD

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Re: [Elecraft] Tuning 88' with KX1 autotuner?

2005-02-20 Thread Rick Dettinger
Jim  -  That is my antenna, currently installed as an inverted vee with
center at 40 feet.  I have about 80 feet of window line.  I just tried it
with my KX1 using an Elecraft 4:1 balun.  [Usually, I use an outboard Z
match tuner (NORCAL)].  On 40 meters, I got an SWR reading of 2.3  while 30
and 20 meters were 1.1 and 1.0 respectively.  I could probably get the SWR
on 40 meters down by changing the feed line length.  Of course, this would
change the other bands.  The balanced antennas are harder to match than the
end fed wires recommended in the KX1 ATU manual.  I get close to 1.0 on all
3 bands  with an end fed 80 foot wire sloping up to 30 feet and a 33 foot
wire laid on the ground.  I highly recommend the KX1 for portable use.
   73 - Rick - K7MW - Original Message -
From: Jim Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2005 3:21 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Tuning 88' with KX1 autotuner?


Just wondering if anyone has tried their KX1 with the autotuner on an 88'
doublet with a windowline feed?

I'm getting ready to erect an 88 footer in my backyard. My height will be
around 35ft and I'll have 80 feet or so of ladderline.

How did you do the coupling of the ladderline to the kx1, any feedline
length issues and how did it load up?

tnx
jtm (drooling over a kx1)
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Re: [Elecraft] S-9 calibration with XG1

2005-02-21 Thread Rick Dettinger
Its hard to try to match up the number of segments  lighted with any of the
S unit marks.  Thats the price we pay for not having a real analog S
meter.  I am thinking of calibrating the meter so S9 is nine segments
lighted (50 uv) .  One segment for each S unit.  I would have to count
segments instead of using the scale.  I am not sure that the high end of the
scale is important, anyhow.  My Sierra dosen't waste segments on 40db over
S9.  I think that with a 40db over signal, the attenuator would be on or the
RF gain reduced,  either of which would change the meter reading.  The bar
graph has 10 segments so I could read to S10 (5db over S9 ?).  I am not sure
if the meter would be any less linear.   73 - Rick -
K7MW
From: Stan Rife [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 5:10 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] S-9 calibration with XG1


I just put the XG1 together and had a question about the setup on
the K2 for setting the S-meter to S-9. In the K2 manual, the only mention of
the XG1 is on page 48. This is the step right after the Cal SLo and Cal SHi
functions. It does not indicate whether to have the preamp on or not. The
instructions that come with the XG1 say to have the preamp on. Which is
correct? I am assuming that it would be with the preamp on, since I get
around S-5 with the preamp off, and close to S-9 with the preamp on. This is
after doing the SLo and SHi calibrations.
Also, what is considered S9 on the K2 meter? Just before the 9, or
right under the 9 ? I am not trying to be too picky, just wondering what
point everyone else is using, if there is a standard. Right under the 9 goes
slightly past it and kind of looks like a better indication for a 5 over
condition. Right now, the XG1 set for 50 microvolts lights the bar under the
9 on my S-meter.

Stan Rife
Houston, TX
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



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[Elecraft] FS: KX1

2005-08-02 Thread Rick Dettinger
I am selling my KX1, SN 539, and building another K1.  Meets all specs and in 
like new condition.  Incl. 30 M, Int ATU and plug-in paddles.  Current cost 
$466.  I am asking $350 USD incl. shipping to CONUS.  Rick Dettinger - K7MW
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Re: [Elecraft] FS: KX1

2005-08-02 Thread Rick Dettinger
The KX1 has been sold.  Thanks - Rick -  K7MW
- Original Message -
From: Rick Dettinger [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 1:18 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] FS: KX1


I am selling my KX1, SN 539, and building another K1.  Meets all specs and
in like new condition.  Incl. 30 M, Int ATU and plug-in paddles.  Current
cost $466.  I am asking $350 USD incl. shipping to CONUS.  Rick Dettinger -
K7MW
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2005-08-20 Thread Rick Dettinger
Hi Tom - I don't think you mentioned what bands you intend to use  the
antenna for.  If just 40M, then you may do as well with coax and not need
the tuner.  If you use it for an all band doublet, the tuner may have
difficulty on some bands depending on the impedence and the lenght of the
feedline.  Without the balun,  you may have radiation from the feedline,
which may not be a problem or it may cause problems in the shack with RF
getting into equipment or noise on receive if the source is near the rig.  I
use a doublet but I increased the lenght to 88 ft and the k2 handles it well
on most bands.  I plan to increase the lenght to 100 ft to get better
efficiency on 80 meters.  I use a 1 to 1 balun.  A 4 to 1 balun may work
better on some frequencies but would likely give less efficiency on 80
meters due to low radiation resistance.  Finally, changing the lenght of the
feed line can improve the match on some bands with a possible worse match on
others.  Multiband antennas are always a compromise and experimenting may be
required.Rick - K7MW
Original Message -
From: Tom McCulloch [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 6:57 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Antenna question


 Hi all,
   I'm considering putting up a 40 meter dipole fed with a 450 ladder line.
 I have a K2 which I run at about 5 to watts (I do not have the 100 watt
 amp).  The K2 also has the internal ATU.

   I have always used 50 ohm coax up until now.  Is there anything I should
 know about using the K2 with 450 ohm feedline?  (Will I need a balun, or
can
 I just feed the ladderline directly to the K2's ATU and that will take
care
 of the match.

 Thanks for your help.

 Tom, WB2QDG

 K2 1103

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[Elecraft] KAT3 question

2008-04-02 Thread Rick Dettinger
I have just installed the KAT3 and it seems to be working, however, i  
can only get a SWR of 4.0 on the K3 on my 40M end fed antenna.  I know  
the SWR with this antenna is very high, but I can get the SWR down to  
2.5 with my K2 ATU.  The K2 is using ALT tune to get there taking a  
long time.  I can understand that this could be a matter of chance,  
since the tuners use discrete components, rather than adjustable  
ones.  I don't find much info on the KAT3 in the Installation  
Instructions or the K3 Owner's Manual.  Sheet 3 of the KAT3  
Installation Manual, Introduction, says Complete details for using  
the KAT3 are included in the KXV3 Owner's manual.  I can't find a  
KXV3 Owner's Manual on the Elecraft site, only the Installation  
Instructions and I don't have a KXV3.  Do I need a KXV3 to use my  
KAT3?  Does the KAT3 have the equivalent of ALT tune on the K2?  The  
KAT3 seems to give up after a few seconds, while the K2 tries real  
hard to get a good match.  I can prune my end fed antenna but I may be  
missing something here and would like to know.


Thanks and 73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: 7.2 pound tuning knob

2008-04-05 Thread Rick Dettinger


On Apr 5, 2008, at 10:48 AM, Rick Dettinger wrote:
Sporting types might want to put some money down on when the number  
will be in the 6000 range and pass up the very popular K2 number.


73'

Rick K7MW


On Apr 5, 2008, at 9:44 AM, Lyle Johnson wrote:

...  If we
assume they've shipped 650 K3's @ $2,200 (I thought I'd err on the
lower-end of the range), they're received $14,300,000 in revenue.


I think that would be for 6,500 K3s, not 650!!!

73,

Lyle KK7P


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Re: [Elecraft] 2.7 vs 2.8 filter choice K3

2008-04-05 Thread Rick Dettinger


On Apr 4, 2008, at 12:20 PM, Craig D. Smith wrote:


In my opinion the difficulty in making the choice is because of the  
pricing
structure adapted by Elecraft for this option.  If the filters were  
sold
ala carte, and you needed to buy the 2.7 or 2.8 in addition to the  
K3 (or
sub receiver), I'm guessing that most people, including me, would  
elect to

pay $120 for the 2.8 rather than $100 for the 2.7.



===


I think that Elecraft wanted to sell a working radio for the base  
price.  That is the way that I ordered my K3 and it has worked very  
well.  I am a CW only operator and I would never have considered  
ordering any rig without a 500 hz filter, in years gone by.  For my  
use, since I am not a contest operator and run from pileups, I found  
the 2.7 khz filter just fine with the bandwidth set at CW widths.  I  
have since ordered the 6 khz, 1 khz and 500 hz filters, just  
because.  Also, the general coverage filter board because I didn't  
have a good general coverage receiver.  I have read discussions on  
other reflectors  involving the concept that under heavy QRN  
conditions, filters characterized as having steep skirts, with the  
resulting sharp shoulders, cause mixing products with the desired  
signal, and that the result is unpleasant to listen to when QRM is  
not a problem.  For the operating I do, especially on the lower  
frequencies, QRN is usually the problem.  I seldom have to deal with  
QRM over S9 and have decided to go with the 5 pole filters where  
they are available.  But I am also fine with the 8 pole, 1 khz  
filter to experiment with.  This seems to be my go to filter on CW  
these days but I will be comparing  both.  With a strong interfering  
signal close by, I can use the 1 khz filter, with its steeper  
skirts, along with shift, to eliminate the QRM.   The shift seems to  
change the center of the passband in 50 hz steps.  I usually have to  
fine tune with VFO A after getting close with the shift control.   
Not a problem, as I am always working split, since  I prefer that to  
RIT.


73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW


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Re: [Elecraft] Introducing the MadelynGram :-)

2008-04-14 Thread Rick Dettinger
My K3 kit came just as I was leaving the house to go to my daughters  
wedding rehearsal.   I opened the white box and grabbed the manuals.   
I read while my xyl drove, an unusual circumstance.  This was on a  
Thursday.  I was on the air by Saturday morning, the wedding day.  Kit  
went together very well and rig works as advertised.

73
Rick Dettinger   K7MW

On Apr 14, 2008, at 5:07 AM, Darwin, Keith wrote:

We're all very familiar with the lovely Lisagram or the heart-warming
Katiegram.  I've received a Madelyngram.

It simply states my K3 has shipped.  Whoo Hooo!

I hope it takes it's time and doesn't arrive until after Tuesday.  I'm
teaching a photography class on Wednesdays and have been using Monday
and Tuesday nights to prepare for the class.  I DON'T need a nice  
new K3
arriving at that time and tempting me to go play radio when I'm  
supposed

to be playing photographer.

- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411.ssb.100 -
- K3 enroute to me -
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Re: [Elecraft] grounding K2

2008-04-16 Thread Rick Dettinger
If I remember correctly, the base K2 came without the ground screw.   
Its been a long time.  I think the ground screw came with the ATU.   
The K1 doesn't have a ground screw, even with the ATU.  I am confused  
about the use of an RF ground with a balanced antenna.  One of the  
advantages of a balanced antenna, verses an antenna that works with a  
ground such as a vertical, is efficiency.  If I use an RF ground with  
a balanced antenna, am I losing efficiency.  Especially if the ground  
is mediocre?  I don't want to put down 60 radials for my center fed  
doublet.  When I used my K1 or K2 with a battery and a balanced   
antenna, I had confidence that most of  the power was getting  
radiated.  Now I have a K3-100 with an Astron 35 M power supply and I  
am wondering if that has changed.  The  35 M schematic shows that the  
13.8v DC terminal is connected to the 120v AC supply system ground.   
This is continuous, overhead and underground, to the substation ground  
mat.  This doesn't sound too bad for a 160  M vertical, however, I  
can't decide what effect this has on my CF doublet.  Am I sending RF  
all over the neighborhood on the power lines?  Is this why a BALUN is  
needed?  Is my antenna efficiency and pattern different than when I  
used battery power?  If I use the doublet and a BALUN, what do I use  
the ground screw for?  It would be redundant to attach it to the AC  
ground as this is done thru the 13.0v supply cable.


73
Rck Dettinger   K7MW


On Apr 16, 2008, at 11:50 AM, Roger Stein wrote:
Yes, good RF/safety practice, to the ground post on the back of the  
K2 provided for that purpose.

Roger
WA7BOC
k2 755
k3 75

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Scott McDowell
Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 11:19 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] grounding K2


Hello
Has anyone ever felt the need to ground their K2, and if so, where  
did you

connect the ground wire to the K2?
Thanks
Scott
N5SM
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Re: [Elecraft] Dangerous Low Volage (WAS: Power pole for K3?)

2008-04-19 Thread Rick Dettinger

On Apr 19, 2008, at 10:06 AM, Robert Tellefsen wrote:

Hi Ron
One other precaution I've always used is to ensure
that all hot terminals are always female with no
exposed metal to accidentally allow a short.  I know
this is stating the obvious but it may not be to those
who are new to this.
73, Bob N6WG





  My TenTec 1340 QRP kit came stock with an RCA jack for the 12 volt  
supply.  I made the mistake of attaching the power cable to my Astron  
35 supply, first.  I didn't lose any body parts but did cause the  
supply to relay out when I made accidental contact with the aluminum  
chassis.  Not a good idea on TenTecs part, even though I didn't use  
good sense in not attaching the cable to the rig first.  For QRP, I  
should have used a small inline fuse in the positive cable lead.   I  
do now.  I also have changed the jack to K2 style.


73
Rick Dettinger K7MW 
  
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Re: [Elecraft] Professional Morse (WAS: CW Mistakes)

2008-04-27 Thread Rick Dettinger
I am glad to be born after CW was invented.  Barely after.  I would  
hate to have to listen to spark watch after watch.

73
Rick Dettinger   K7MW

  On Apr 26, 2008, at 7:43 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:



And there's a sample of what the 600 meter marine band sounded like  
on a

typical receiver of the time. Talk about QRM, but it wasn't a serious
problem for those ops most of the time.

It's a audio file created by W5JN of the OOTC (the really OLD, old  
timer's

club).

http://www.ootc.us/W5JN%20QCWA%20Ch41.mp3

He provides some narration and a few hints about what you're hearing  
during

the ten minute program.

Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] Palm Mini-Paddles?

2008-04-27 Thread Rick Dettinger
I screwed mine to an aluminum bar with a rubber foot on the front.   
The rear of the bar had a hole that mated up with a hole in the K1  
mounting bracket.  I used the Elecraft supplied thumb screw to attach  
the bar to the bracket.  It worked well, unless I wanted to carry the  
K1 without the bracket.  I now use a GHD travel paddle attached to an  
aluminum plate.  It is not as compact but I can use it with other  
radios or without the bracket   I just hold the plate in my left  
palm.  This can be done with other paddles and I find that it works  
well for me.  An advantage of the Palm Mini paddles is that you can  
buy extra snap in mounting bases and attach then to different gear.   
Some have even attached them to tiles to use in the shack.  The  
paddles simply snap into the bases and are ready for use.  My only  
complaint with the Palm paddles is the slightly soft contacts.  Not a  
big one for portable use.

73
Rick DettingerK7MW


On Apr 27, 2008, at 7:44 PM, Sandy wrote:
I forgot to mention.  I stick mine down in place with the  
yellow or blue sticky clay you get at office supply places.  Works  
great and doesn't damage the housing of the key.  I didn't opt for  
the magnetic inserts as the K1 doesn't have anything they will stick  
to!  Didn't want to drill the side of the K1 to mount the base either.


73,

Sandy W5TVW



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Re: [Elecraft] Palm Mini-Paddles?

2008-04-28 Thread Rick Dettinger
Good for you George.  I just got my Begali Signature paddles last  
week.  They are very nice but they are not carved out of a solid   
block of stainless steel like your Sculpture paddles.  And they weigh  
about as much as a 5 ah gel cel battery.  So they do not go traveling  
with me.  But I like the way you think.

73
Rick Dettinger   K7MW

On Apr 27, 2008, at 9:14 PM, George Victor wrote:

Folks,
Why waste your time, We are all a bunch of old farts, you are not
living forever. Just use a good paddle without worrying about
cosmetics or damage (or money).
I have a Begali Sculpture that will satisfy any of you picky code
aficionados, I take it on camping trips and to picnic grounds. I throw
it in my trunk with out worry.
The paddle is pretty much indestructible. It's $600.00 bucks but it it
the best pair of dancing shoes you will ever own. Don't deprive
yourself. Just get the best and enjoy!
George


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Re: [Elecraft] DL1 Short Term Ratings

2008-05-18 Thread Rick Dettinger
I used mine to make the 50 watt adjustments, since my watt meter only  
goes to ten watts, and had no problems.  I limited the key down time  
to a few seconds, just enough to read the voltage.  I made adjustments  
with the key up and then rechecked the voltage on the DL1.  The  
resistors got quite warm but not too hot.  I used clip leads on the  
test points so I only needed enough time to read the meter.

73
Rick Dettinger  K7MW

On May 18, 2008, at 8:25 AM, WA6OCP wrote:


Has anyone determined what the DL1 is capable of for a short time  
(say 10

sec) in excess of 20W?

Besides the power dissipation, one would  also have to consider the  
PRV of
the diode.  It looks like 50W would stay within the diode's PRV  
rating.


Tnx, Neal WA6OCP
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[Elecraft] K2 FS

2008-05-20 Thread Rick Dettinger

My K3 is keeping me busy so my K2 is idle.  So its time to sell.
K2 SN 1653 with
KAT2
KAF2
KNB2
K160 RX
All manuals

This K2 is set up for CW only at present.  I did most Rev. B  
upgrades that pertains  to QRP CW operating.  Everything works as per  
Elecraft specs. except for very low output on 160 M. where  I only get  
about one half watt output power.  Receive seems to work well on 160  
M.  I have worked several states QRPp on this band but have not done  
any troubleshooting.  The K2 appears to be in like new condition with  
no dings or scratches and has only been used at home.  Non smoking,  
both the rig and the operator.  I will sell for $500. including UPS  
ground packing and shipping to CONUS.

Thanks and 73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
   
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[Elecraft] K3 - 30m problem solved

2008-06-03 Thread Rick Dettinger
If this had been an offshore rig, you would have had to send it to a  
factory authorized repair facility for warranty work.  Since there was  
no fault, you would have had to pay a service charge and shipping both  
ways.  Another advantage of buying an Elecraft rig.


73
Rick Dettinger   K7MW
===
My K3 quit transmitting on 30m a week ago.  All other bands were OK.  
After using up a lot of Gary's time, Wayne called me and his first  
question was, Which antenna is selected?


I don't know how it happened, but 30m had gotten set to ANT2.  One tap  
on ANT and I'm back alive on 10.1 MHz.  Just like my K2, the K3  
antenna selection is saved on a per band/per memory basis, something I  
should have known since I've had my K2/KAT100 for several years now.


The moral for me is, Before leaping to email [EMAIL PROTECTED],  
study **ALL** the icons and legends on the LCD.  Quite a few are  
fairly small.


Chagrined, I remain

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2008 Cal QSO Party  4-5 Oct 08
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[Elecraft] K2 FS

2008-06-06 Thread Rick Dettinger


K2 SN 1653 with
KAT2
KAF2
KNB2
K160 RX
All manuals

This K2 is set up for CW only at present.  I did most Rev. B  
upgrades that pertains  to QRP CW operating.  Everything works as per  
Elecraft specs. except for very low output on 160 M. where  I only get  
about one half watt output power.  Receive seems to work well on 160  
M.  I have worked several states QRPp on this band but have not done  
any troubleshooting.  The K2 appears to be in like new condition with  
no dings or scratches and has only been used at home, in a nonsmoking  
environment.
 I will sell for $450. including UPS ground packing and shipping to  
CONUS.

Thanks and 73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 
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[Elecraft] K2 FS

2008-06-06 Thread Rick Dettinger

K2 #1653 has been sold.
Thanks
Rick Dettinger  K7MW 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 noise blanker sure does the job.

2008-06-23 Thread Rick Dettinger
Brett - I used to have the same problem with the street lights in my  
neighborhood.  After about three years of service, high pressure  
sodium lamps start to cycle on and off.  Every time they start up,  
they generate noise.  I walk at night and in the winter I could see  
the lamps cycle.  I would make a note of the address, and then email  
the information to the power company.  It is important to be specific  
with information as the line service crew that gets the trouble slip  
will come out in the daylight and won't be able to see the problem.   
Our streetlights are  serviced by the power company through a contract  
with the City.  In your area, you may have to contact the City.   
Street lights should be maintained on a 3 year cycle but maintenance  
gets deferred due to budget considerations.  Don't expect prompt  
response.  This is low priority work.


73
Rick  Dettinger   K7MW


On Jun 23, 2008, at 9:11 AM, Brett Howard wrote:

I've got a HUGE problem in my area too.  It only comes on at night  
(not

all nights though) and its periodic.  Like a lil over a minute on and
then 40 something seconds off and it goes on and off like that all
night.  It generally comes on shortly after the street lamps do.  A  
talk

with the power company results in a guy calling back saying he was in
the area and couldn't hear anything.  Well no doubt you weren't there
when the noise is.  And he says that if its the street lamps they have
no jurisdiction I have to speak with the city.  Unfortunately I have  
no

real way to tell what light it is.





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Re: [Elecraft] Optivisor?

2008-06-27 Thread Rick Dettinger


On Jun 27, 2008, at 8:03 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:




A word of warning to all the  young gentlemen who want to look  
cool out
there, I've been wearing Optivisors for 30 years now, ever since I  
handled
my first SMDs. As a single fellow on the prowl I always wanted to  
look good.
One day I jumped up from the bench in the lab to head into the front  
office
at the company where I worked. As I walked through the facility,  
several
attractive young women smiled broadly at me. I winked back and  even  
chatted

up one or two, wondering why I was suddenly so noticeable.

My errand done, I returned to the lab to discover that I had   
flipped the
Optivisor up over my head without thinking about it. They work great  
that
way, getting the lenses out of the way without removing the nice  
padded head
band. So what the YLs were smiling about was me walking through the  
facility

with this ridiculous looking contraption sticking up on my head.

Sigh!

Ron AC7AC



Another word of warning.  Optivisors cut off peripheral vision.  But I  
knew just where my soldering iron was.  After a 2 hour wait in the  
emergency room, the doctor gave me a tube of silver sulfadiazine and  
told me to be careful.  700 degrees burns very fast.  Usually, I can  
adjust the optivisor up slightly, so that I can also see underneath  
with glasses only.

73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW 
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Re: [Elecraft] Band button

2008-07-05 Thread Rick Dettinger

On Jul 5, 2008, at 7:11 PM, Lyle Johnson wrote:



For those who prefer frequency in this mode, the reference won't be  
in Hertz, but in cycles per fortnight.


This is a great Forum...


Yes, it is, to go with a great rig.
 But I would prefer the frequency to be in natural units, i.e.  
radians per second.


 73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW
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Re: [Elecraft] There's a new K1 on the block!

2009-09-19 Thread Rick Dettinger
That would be for diversity reception!  :-)

Rick   K7MW


On Sep 19, 2009, at 7:55 AM, Mike Morrow wrote:

 Steve wrote:

 My version of this 'classic' rig is 4-band (40, 30, 30 and 15m)...
 A magic combination on 30m, my favourite band.

 30m must really *really* be your favo[u]rite, if you have devoted two
 of the four bands on the filter board to it!!!:-)

 Mike / KK5F
 K1 S/N 175
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Re: [Elecraft] DSP red light coming on at max load

2009-10-14 Thread Rick Dettinger
I really appreciate that Elecraft is such an open company! (-:

73

MW


On Oct 14, 2009, at 6:16 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

 It's official: we're running out of DSP cycles not just during NR on/
 off but also under worst-case load.

 I get a continuous DSP red LED and distorted audio (with a buzz) under
 the following conditions:

   CW
   CWT on
   NR on, set to F1-x
   DSP NB on, any setting
   FIR IF filter (WIDTH  500 Hz)

 Turning off any of these kills the red LED.

 I also get a red LED when turning NR on/off even if the DSP is not
 turned on.

 So I need a workaround until you get back. One thing I could do is
 defeat the CW decoder (and CWT) if WIDTH is set  500 Hz. Other ideas?

 tnx
 W

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Beta Firmware

2009-10-17 Thread Rick Dettinger

 My conclusion is that the stability of the K3 firmware is a relative
 term.  In anticipation of further improvements, it will be a long time
 before the firmware is finished and thus stable by that  
 definition.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

This makes wonder if new K3's are shipped with the latest Bata or the  
last production firmware?

73
Rick Dettinger   K7MW
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Beta Firmware

2009-10-18 Thread Rick Dettinger

 took 14 days for my K3 to get here. Six days of that time it sat in  
 Canadian
 Customs then Canada Post had it for another six days. This makes the  
 US
 Postal Service look pretty good!



 -Robby

 VY2SS


Do they charge for storage?(-:

73
Rick Dettinger   K7MW
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Re: [Elecraft] Pronunciation ??

2009-11-26 Thread Rick Dettinger

On Nov 26, 2009, at 12:26 PM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:

 Who's Queen?
 :-)
 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174

Not ours!  But I think there is a little history there :-)

Rick Dettinger
K7MW, in the non-former colony of Washington State,  USA
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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 Bands

2009-12-20 Thread Rick Dettinger
 And if you are going to change boards often, I would suggest not  
 installing the KAT1.  It would be better to use an external tuner as  
 the band filter board is located under the ATU and it more than  
 doubles the time it takes to change boards.

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW


 It would be better to procure another 2 band board and configure it  
 for
 80 meters plus another band of your choice.

 73,
 Don W3FPR



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Re: [Elecraft] kit building or buy ready for use

2009-12-20 Thread Rick Dettinger
The cost of the mat and grounded wrist strap might not be a factor.   
They will be needed for any additions to the K3 at a later date.   
Building the K3 is like building the K2 after all the boards are  
completed.  Just the final assembly part.  By the time I built my K3,  
it was a welcome relief to construct it that way, as I have stuffed  
all the boards I want for some time, at least the ones with several  
hundred parts.

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW


 Although you save $200 by building it yourself, you really don't
 learn much in the process, and you have to spend about $25 for an
 ESD mat. If you have to ship it back to the factory, it will cost
 you $50 in the USA, and much more from overseas.

 There is no substitute for the final system tests that the
 factory-assembled units get. Subassemblies are not tested 100%.

 Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
 Yuma, AZ

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 on 500 kHz

2010-01-05 Thread Rick Dettinger

   I ordered a Palomar VLF converter a year ago from HRO and they had  
to refund my money.  They said that the VLF converter was no longer  
being made.  The Palomar Engineers web site seems to reflect this.   
They only show balun stuff, now.

73,

Rick Dettinger   K7MW


On Jan 4, 2010, at 7:13 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

 Wayne Burdick wrote:
 What I
 meant was that you *could* make a transverter for these bands and
 interface it to the K3 via KXV3 module. We don't have plans to  
 offer one
 ourselves.

 I've had a Palomar VLF Converter for years, works really great, and
 better with my K3.  Converts [allegedly] DC to 500 KHz to 3.5 to 4.0
 MHz.  LORAN-C noise here on the US Pacific Coast is a bit of a  
 problem,
 we're fairly close to Middletown CA which has a USCG LORAN station,  
 but
 the loop will null most of it out.  Seems to work good down to about  
 12
 KHz, then things get mushy.  I think I've even heard the power line
 carrier current telemetry ... we have a 145KV line close to us and I
 know it carries it, we have hydroelectric plants above and below us  
 and
 I can see the chokes in the substations.  That said, I haven't had the
 Palomar on for about a year, maybe I'll hook it up again and see  
 what's
 there.  There was some word [maybe urban legends] that the CG was  
 going
 to shut down LORAN-C in the face of GPS.  I've heard the West Coast
 500KHZ ham beacon several times, can't remember the call now.

 I really can't see why Elecraft would want to delve into such a low
 volume market when there are a number of cheap alternatives already  
 out
 there.  I'd rather they work on the solid-state amps :-)

 As a High School senior at 16, I got to work ships at sea on 500Kcs  
 from
 a coastal marine station as a relief operator.  The Holy Frequency is
 eerily silent these days compared to then, when it was a sort of
 world-wide party-line.  But, that was then and this is now.  LoFer is
 sort of fun for awhile, but I can't transmit there and the fun tends  
 to
 fade after I've identified all the NDB's I can hear.

 73 and a Good New Year to all,

 Fred K6DGW
 Auburn CA USA
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 how often do you use it?

2010-01-11 Thread Rick Dettinger
I am glad that my K3 doesn't weight in excess of 50 lbs.  I have to  
carry it up a ships ladder into my shack, which is in a loft.  One  
hand for the ladder and one for the K3.  I do this several times a  
year to update the firmware.

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW


On Jan 11, 2010, at 10:21 AM, Dick Williams wrote:


 I beg to differ with who stated that most hams want large radios  
 and find
 the ergonomics and packaging of the K3 to be less than desirable.

 First,  not every ham wants a boat anchor box that takes up half the
 operating position and weights in excess of 50 lbs.


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Re: [Elecraft] Units

2008-12-08 Thread Rick Dettinger


On Dec 8, 2008, at 11:09 AM, David Cutter wrote:

A pity our cousins from across the water are not all on board the SI  
express.



David
Yes, it is.  And we still refer to our archaic system as the English  
system.
We actually had a push to go metric in the mid 1800's but only got as  
far as changing the inch by a small enough amount to make 2.54 cm  
equal exactly 1 inch.  It used to be based on the length of a small  
worm (:
Even countries using the metric system don't get it right.  Speed is  
measured in kilometers per hour.  The hour is not a metric unit.  It  
should be meters per second for traffic signs and weather reports.
I worked for the local power coumpany and they are half right.  They  
use the watt for power but the watt hour for energy, which again  
messes up the units for metrics.  3600 joules per watthour just  
doesn't get it. And every other form of energy has its own unit of  
measurement.  Yuck.
But I do what I can.  I named my sailboat STORMJOULE.   The dingy was  
ERG.


73
Rick Dettinger   K7MW as in MegaWatt (:
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 smoother tuning

2009-01-21 Thread Rick Dettinger
I did the same thing with my K1.  I had to ream the 6mm hole out to  
0.25 in.  Somewhat tricky.  I used a drillpress with a Dremel tool  
bit.  I like the result.  I think the K1 knob is weighted also, but I  
like the larger diameter.

73
Rick Dettinger   K7MW


On Jan 21, 2009, at 4:17 PM, Neal wrote:


 Well, maybe smoother tuning is not the best description.

 I built my K1 with the 80kHz tuning range option.  With time, I  
 found it was
 a little touchy.  Not wishing to go to a narrower tuning range, I  
 sought
 another answer.

 The solution was a weighted, K2 knob and two felt washers.  Given the
 limitations of the K1, it's about as good as it gets.

 BTW, it is not at all bad cosmetically.

 73, Neal WA6OCP
 K1 2639, K3 305
 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://n2.nabble.com/K1-smoother-tuning-tp2195423p2195423.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] Beware! (Learn by doing?) :-)))

2009-01-27 Thread Rick Dettinger

On Jan 27, 2009, at 12:57 PM, Darwin, Keith wrote:

 For this very reason, I always run with AGC on.  Even when I want the
 rig to act like it's off, I leave it on, set to Fast and then just  
 turn
 the RF gain down to put my signal of interest down near the point  
 where
 AGC is doing very little.  AGC is still on to protect me in case some
 big signal QRM or QRN shows up.

 - Keith N1AS -
 - K3 711 -

I also leave the AGC on but I use minimum slope and maximum  
threshold.  If the AGC is off, the NR doesn't work (but, unlike many  
rigs, the S Meter does).  Otherwise, I would leave the AGC off.  Butt  
it is good to have some sort of limiter to protect my hearing.

73

Rick Dettinger   K7MW

  
   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 PA3000.. you can dream, can't you?

2009-02-11 Thread Rick Dettinger
With that kind of drive requirement, you could skip the 100 watt amp  
on the K2 or K3 and go directly to about 700 watts out using the QRP  
versions for about the same cost.

73
Rick   K7MW
LaConner, WA


On Feb 11, 2009, at 1:38 PM, Greg - AB7R wrote:

 If interested there's a guy named Yuri near Seattle who has a board  
 with 12 MRF-
 150s on it that he tested I think with 25W drive for 1.1KW output.   
 I don't recall
 what the power supply was.  Think he wanted something like $350 for  
 it.  Add may
 still be on QRZ.com.


 -
 73,
 Greg - AB7R
 Whidbey Island WA
 NA-065


 On Wed Feb 11 13:09 , Jeff Wandling W7BRS  sent:


 Fun stuff -

 I'm not quite looking for the KPA1000, but this is where I'd  
 ultimately
 like to go design and homebrew-wise if I could try, someday.. maybe.

 (I saw QEX had an article Oct/2006 for a tokyo-style amp - these hams
 based theirs on that design)

 http://www.mods-ham.com/03_Home-brew/Homebrew-Mods/ARF1500-PA/ARF1500PA.pdf

 and a follow up:

 http://www.mods-ham.com/03_Home-brew/Homebrew-Mods/ARF1500-PA/ARF_PA_DL6JI.pdf

 hosted at:

 http://www.mods-ham.com/03_Home-brew/Homebrew_Frame.html

 Auf Deutsch. Select all the text, paste it into various translators
 online and get a jist of what's going on.

 -jeff
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: question re: antenna/rig swtich

2009-03-05 Thread Rick Dettinger
Don,

Does it matter if the rigs not in use are turned off?  I assumed that  
they would have more immunity to overload if the unused rig was not  
turned on.  The Alpha Delta instructions says the switches are meant  
to be used for switching multi antennas and one rig or multi  
receivers.  They do not mention multi transceivers.  I use two  
transceivers with one antenna but I removed the protection plug  
(Arcplug) as I wasn't sure if that was the reason they didn't  
recommend the switch for multi transceivers.  But I always leave the  
unused rig turned off.  No problem so far but I only run 100 watts  
maximum.

73
Rick Dettinger   K7MW


On Mar 5, 2009, at 5:52 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

 Greg,

 Theory says you should not have any problem.  With 60 dB isolation and
 1000 watts, there may be as much as 1 mW at the input of each  
 receiver -
 that is 223.6 mV, which is a large signal, but still within the power
 handling capability of most receivers.

 In the practical world, if there are any leakage paths *around* the
 switch or coupling between the coax lines, then even though the switch
 itself provides 60 dB isolation, the system isolation may be much  
 lower
 - just how much depends on your setup.

 You could set it up and test at lower power - tune the other radios to
 the transmit frequency and see what the S-meters tell you.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] Where Is It In The Manual?

2009-03-09 Thread Rick Dettinger
My K3 RTC was gaining less than 2 seconds a month last summer.  This  
winter,   it has been loosing about the same.  The temp. in the shack  
is about 15 degrees warmer in the summer.  It would be near perfect at  
about 65 degrees F.  I don't think I will try to tweak it :).  I  
originally thought that the RTC would use the TCXO as a time base but  
that would require the TCXO to be powered up all the time.

73,
Rick   K7MW


 Cleve,

 The RTC in the K3 is specified at 2 seconds per day, I believe. If  
 it's
 worse than this, you may have a slightly mistuned 32 kHz oscillator
 crystal. Please contact k3support for help with this.


 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR



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Re: [Elecraft] 500 kHz Transceive Operation With the K3

2009-06-10 Thread Rick Dettinger

On Jun 10, 2009, at 2:20 PM, Mike-WE0H wrote:

 See if you can make it go to 495.000kc as that is the bottom end of  
 any
 possible Amateur Band. If it can tune 495.000kc thru 515.000kc, that
 should cover any future Amateur 600m band. There are currently
 Experimental stations using that spectrum and Amateur Bands in other
 countries. The band coverage varies by country but is within that  
 window
 worldwide.

The main tuning stops at 500.000 khz but I was able to get the display  
down to 490.001 khz with the RIT on receive.  Finally, I have found a  
use for my RIT control.  Now, I just need to find a use for my Memory  
buttons (:.

73,
Rick   K7MW
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 eHam review after 2+ years

2009-07-05 Thread Rick Dettinger




 I think the original author of this topic is incorrect to call the  
 K3 100%
 done.


I think that this is a correct statement if we take 100% done to  
mean that the K3 meets all of its advertised specs.  At least most if  
not all of the mods have been enhancements, not steps to meet these  
specs.

73,

Rick   K7MW 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 eHam review after 2+ years

2009-07-05 Thread Rick Dettinger
Yes, of course you are right.  I was referring to hardwear changes  
that would require returning the rig to Aptos or going inside with a  
hot soldering iron in hand.  There is no point in waiting to buy a K3  
until the firmwear is fully mature  as there is not much involved in  
dong a periodic upgrade online.  It does help if you live near one of  
the design engineers ):.

73,

Rick   K7MW in Mount Vernon, Wa.



 Wasn't Synchronous AM detection in the original advertised
 specifications?

 Still waiting patiently...

 73,
 Paul WW2PT

 On Jul 5, 2009, at 1:12 PM, Rick Dettinger wrote:

 I think the original author of this topic is incorrect to call the
 K3 100%
 done.


 I think that this is a correct statement if we take 100% done to
 mean that the K3 meets all of its advertised specs.  At least most if
 not all of the mods have been enhancements, not steps to meet these
 specs.

 73,

 Rick   K7MW

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] feature notion

2009-07-18 Thread Rick Dettinger

 I do about half my operating at QRP and half at ~100 W.  A nice
 single-push toggle would be one that could swap the K3 from, for
 example, 5 W and 100 W.

 73--Nick, WA5BDU


I agree.  I like to be able to go to low power to use my remote  
tuner.  It takes quite a few turns to crank down to 5 watts and then  
return to 100 watts.

73

Rick Dettinger   K7MW
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] feature notion

2009-07-18 Thread Rick Dettinger


 Rick, you can set the config item TUN PWR to low power for tuning
 purposes. This gives a pre-set power level when pressing the TUNE
 button, settable from 0.1 Watt upwards.

 73 Dave, G4AON
 K3/100 #80

Thanks Dave and Lyle

That will work very well.  I guess I need to Read The Fine Manual!
Although, with a K3, that is a moving target.

73

Rick Dettinger  K7MW


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Re: [Elecraft] For All CW Enthusiasts...

2009-07-23 Thread Rick Dettinger
After watching the video, I went into the shack and opened up all the  
adjustments on my bug.  And increased the spring tension.  I have not  
been sending near aerobic enough.  Now I know what full contact CW  
looks like.  But I don't know if I could ever get used to that buzz  
note side tone.  I will not complain about my K1 note again.  At least  
not for awhile.

73

Rick Dettinger K7MW




 The sender is Denise Stoops, the first female operator at KPH  
 transmitting
 the closing message at the recent Night of Nights activity.



 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2a4scmlC7tI



 Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] New K1 on the way - Band Module Questions

2009-07-24 Thread Rick Dettinger
I am not sure if you are planning to change the two band modules often  
but if you are, I think it would be better to use an external tuner  
like the T1 rather than the optional internal tuner.  It makes module  
swapping much easier.
The K1 wasn't really designed for frequent module changes and its not  
just a matter of plugging a new one in, like with the Sierra.  If you  
have the internal tuner installed, it needs to be removed to change  
band modules.  I have often thought that if one could get along  
without the internal batteries, the speaker and the tuner, that there  
would be room for more bands on a larger board or multiple boards.   
But this would require switching changes to the firmware.  Not  
something for mere mortals to play around with.  Enjoy your new K1.  I  
sure like mine.

73

Rick DettingerK7MW


On Jul 24, 2009, at 8:13 PM, Gary W. Marklund wrote:

 Thanks, Sandy and Don. Looks like the two-band modules will give me  
 the
 flexibility I want. Can't wait to get started. USPS tracking shows it
 has arrived and been processed through the Phoenix sorting facility.
 I'll have my kit tomorrow!

 Gary
 KJ7RT

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Re: [Elecraft] Dilemma: K1 or KX1 - I can't decide

2009-08-05 Thread Rick Dettinger

 I just can't seem to decide between the KX1 and the K1. And, no, I  
 can't
 buy both.


 73, Doug -- K0DXV


The only advantage the KX1 has over the K1 is the small size and the  
ability to operate on the phone bands, cross mode, of course.  This  
allows checking into the phone nets  to pass traffic.  The K1 is a  
better rig in all other respects.  I built a K1, sold it to get a KX1  
and than sold that to get another K1.  For my needs, the K1 is a  
better rig.

73,

Rick Dettinger   K7MW
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Re: [Elecraft] Off-Topic - Straight-key speed cpontrol

2009-08-07 Thread Rick Dettinger


 The elbow should rest on the desk and the fingers on the key's  
 knob. 

 I couldn't disagree more!  I have always taught as I was taught that  
 the key
 is at the edge of the desk and no part of your body touches the  
 desk, except
 perhaps the other hand.  The forearm should be horizontal, sit up  
 straight
 and relax the shoulders.  It's very similar to typing.  The  
 telegraphers of
 old had to send for hours and this is the way they did it; I was one  
 once.

 73

 David
 G3UNA


That is the difference between the American and British systems.  As I  
understand it, the British used this method, as I do, to avoid a  
glass arm.  The Americans invented the bug for the same reason.  I  
also use a bug.  During WW2, Australian operators, accustomed to the  
British method, were frustrated when serving on American military  
aircraft, because the key was screwed to the rear of the operating  
table.

The following is from Chapter 9, Part II of The Art and Skill of  
Radio-Telegraphy by William G. Pierpont, N0HFF, (SK):


As the beginners progress, they adapt their keying style to whatever  
is comfortable to them
individually. There are many variations in adjustment, depending on  
the particular key design
details and the operator's preferences. The Australians and New  
Zealanders appear to have
followed the British practice, but other European countries have not  
necessarily done so.
Australians have said they found it very hard to send properly with  
the American keys -- with
their flat topped key-knobs, located far back from the edge of the  
table -- as installed in air-
ground-air stations during WW-II. They called these keying  
arrangements a flaming nuisance!
In summary, with all these variations in basic and detail design, it  
seems obvious that there must
be more than one way to design a good key and use it.



This entire book is available for free download, and can be linked  
from here:

  http://www.qsl.net/n9bor/n0hff.htm

73,

Rick DettingerK7MW 
   
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 headphones

2009-08-20 Thread Rick Dettinger

On Aug 20, 2009, at 5:48 AM, Brian Murrey wrote:

 I use Klipsch Image X10 headphones with my KX-1they are absolutely
 the best headphones I have ever used.

 http://www.klipsch.com/na-en/products/image-overview/

 They are not cheap, but you can find them for less than retail at most
 higher end audio stores.

Not only not cheap, they cost more than the KX-1!!

73,

Rick DettingerK7MW
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for August 23rd 24th, 2009

2009-08-23 Thread Rick Dettinger
 Maybe our rigs won't be working all that long after all.  A dim  
 memory tells me diffusion rates in silicon are on the order of tens  
 of years.  Maybe if we store our rigs in large Dewars filled with  
 liquid helium they will last a little longer :) Kevin.   
 KD5ONS  (Net Control Operator 5th Class)

 -

Plus, it would do wonders for the noise figure :)

73,

Rick Dettinger   K7MW
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 -: internal tuner or external T1 tuner?

2009-09-04 Thread Rick Dettinger
Brian-
The internal tuner is good and the external tuner is better and can be  
used with other QRP rigs.  Also, if you want to change filter boards  
frequently, the internal tuner has to be removed to change the filter  
boards.  This doubles the work.

73,

Rick DettingerK7MW


On Sep 4, 2009, at 11:42 AM, Brian Pepperdine wrote:


 Hi all.
 With the K1, is it better or equal to have the internal tuner built  
 and installed internally in the K1 or is there a performance factor  
 (better?) to use the external T1 tuner?

 Thought I would ask and get something ordered before the price  
 changes.

 tnx
 Brien
 VE3VAW
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 VFO B with K2 knob?

2008-07-17 Thread Rick Dettinger
I bored out my K2 knob to fit the 1/4 shaft on my K1.  I used a drill  
press and a 1/4 Dremel bit.  I don't remember which one, but it was  
not a twist drill bit.  The K2 knob is 6mm.  6mm is 0.236 in. so you  
need to remove .007 in. of brass from the wall.  Since the knob would  
be hard to clamp, I would not use a twist drill bit.  It would almost  
certainly  grab and you would have a spinner.  Better to grind.  I  
drilled out a knob hole in a Junker straight key lever arm with a  
twist drill bit because I wanted 5mm threads and the bit grabbed the  
lever, which I had to retrieve from a new hole in the wallboard.

Good Luck and 73
Rick Dettinger   K7MW


On Jul 17, 2008, at 6:09 PM, DaveL G3TJP wrote:



Some time ago, I replaced the K2's main tuning knob, complete with  
finger

dimple, with another more user-friendly knob from the (*S!) Yaesu
stable,

In a fit of admiration of my new K3, it occurred to me that the  
original K2

knob might very well make a handy substitute for the K3's VFO B knob,
particularly if the K3's tilt bail was in use.

I was disappointed to discover that the K2 knob's hole was a shade  
too small

to fit on the K3's VFO B shaft.  There seems to be only a few thou
difference, which might be worth drilling out, but has anyone else  
tried

this and if so, with what result?

73 DaveL  G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] RE: Band Button

2008-07-26 Thread Rick Dettinger
The solution is really very simple.  Just have a bank of K3's.  One  
for each band of interest.  With a switching arrangement to suit the  
operator.  Hams can't leave everything up to the rig designers.
Also, maybe the firmware download could have a menu, with user  
selectable features.  One size fits all  firmware can't please everyone.


73
Rick Dettinger  K7MW

=  On Jul 26,  
2008, at 7:04 AM, Dave Agsten wrote:


Wow - never thought anything as simple as a band select button would  
cause such commotion. Back when there were rotary bandswitches you  
had to go through 40 to get from 80 to 20. How did we ever manage  
that? Such silly stuff.


73,
Dave N8AG

PS - wonder which button is next on the list? Oh, that's right, the  
Mode button.





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Re: [Elecraft] ESD Safety

2008-07-26 Thread Rick Dettinger
Looks like the only solution is to work under water.  All of the  
voltages exceed the 30 volts  or so level we have heard cause damage  
to sensitive components.


73
Rick Dettinger   K7MW


On Jul 26, 2008, at 9:51 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:



This is a subject that comes up here regularly among those working on
their Elecraft (and other) rigs.

Doing some research on a project, I ran across the following values
published by Hewlett-Packard Company. They provide some insight about
why it's important to use ESD-safe handling procedures.

The PCBs mentioned below are, of course, Printed Circuit Boards, not
the stuff found in old capacitors and transformers. DIPs are Dual
In-line Pin integrated circuits such as found throughout Elecraft  
rigs.


Typical Electrostatic Voltage Levels

Relative Humidity for each voltage level shown below:
10%
40%
55%

Walking across carpet
35,000 V
15,000 V
7,500 V

Walking across vinyl floor
12,000 V
5,000 V
3,000 V

Motions of bench worker
6,000 V
800 V
400 V

Removing DIPS from plastic tube
2,000 V
700 V
400 V

Removing DIPS from vinyl tray
11,500 V
4,000 V
2,000 V

Removing DIPS from Styrofoam
14,500 V
5,000 V
3,500 V

Removing bubble pack from PCB
26,500 V
20,000 V
7,000 V

Packing PCBs in foam-lined box
21,000 V
11,000 V
5,000 V

Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] Tricks to K3 assembly (WAS: Prospective K3 Owner)

2008-08-26 Thread Rick Dettinger
I use 3 oz. paper cups to keep small parts in.  I can move the one I  
am using to the front and as they get emptied, I can remove them  
from the work bench.


Rick Dettinger   K7MW


On Aug 26, 2008, at 6:40 PM, Lee Buller wrote:



I do not like egg cartons or muffin tins.  These are to big for my  
work space.  I like plastic ice cube trays.  Dollar Store   
Cheap...many slots...can make ice after the build.


Lee
K0WA




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[Elecraft] K3 VFO split problem

2008-09-22 Thread Rick Dettinger
My K3, Serial Number 556, is not working properly in the VFO split  
mode.  I only work CW and when I hold split, the CW speed control  
light changes to the MIC  light.  The transmitter will then not key.   
Switching back to transceive restores the ability to key the  
transmitter.   This happens on all bands except 80, 40, and 30  
meters.  On these three bands, everything works as it should.  This  
might be a clue, as these are the only bands I normally use.  I just  
found this out today when I went on 20 meters.  I usually use split  
instead of RIT, as I prefer to use the larger knob.  My firmware is  
02.39 and 01.91.  Any ideas?  Did I not set up all the bands correctly?


Thanks and 73
Rick DettingerK7MW 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 VFO split problem

2008-09-22 Thread Rick Dettinger
Yes, that was the case.  When I set up the band memories, I didn't  
make sure both VFO's were properly set to CW.  Since I normally have  
the display set to real time clock mode, I didn't see the offending  
USB indicator on VFO B.
Thanks for the many correct answers to my problem.   That was very  
quick.

A great list.

73
Rick Dettinger   K7MW


On Sep 22, 2008, at 3:28 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:

Sounds like you have the other VFO on each band set to SSB. That  
would change the default mode for that control to Mic Gain from CW  
Speed.


A single tap of A-B only copies frequency. A double tap of A-B  
copies all other parameters (mode, filter etc.)


73, Eric  WA6HHQ



Rick Dettinger wrote:
My K3, Serial Number 556, is not working properly in the VFO split  
mode.  I only work CW and when I hold split, the CW speed control  
light changes to the MIC  light.  The transmitter will then not key.







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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Rigs in Emergency Service...

2008-09-26 Thread Rick Dettinger


I wonder if the Ham injured in the mountains knew to use QRRR? I  
wonder

how many Hams today know what it means?

Perhaps he got lucky hearing that guy tune up and getting an answer  
to his

call before he needed it.

Ron AC7AC



I wonder if he would be advised to use QRRR,  if most hams don't  
know what it means?


Rick Dettinger   K7MW 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT--K3's Approaching 2,000

2008-10-01 Thread Rick Dettinger


On Sep 30, 2008, at 10:12 PM, David Yarnes wrote:


Hi All,

I just have to say that, notwithstanding all the sticky problems  
we've seen in production, it's pretty darn amazing that we are  
getting close to having 2,000 K3's out there. And apparently demand  
is still pretty strong.

Dave W7AQK


___
Looks like K3 production may pass K2 numbers in about 2010.  They are  
about a third of the way there now.  The K2 had an 8 year head start.


73
Rick Dettinger   K7MW
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Real Time Clock Display

2008-11-23 Thread Rick Dettinger
Mine has been gaining a little over 1 second a month.  I had assumed  
that the RTC used the TCXO as a time base but it doesn't.  It has its  
own oscillator.


73
Rick Dettinger K7MW


On Nov 23, 2008, at 7:36 AM, Gil Cross wrote:

Just checked my RTC for correct time. Has been running a  
year now and was only 2 min.- 8 sec slow. Not bad


73  Gil
- Original Message -
From: Terry Schieler
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 7:34 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Real Time Clock Display

I have had the clock displayed on my K3 since day one.  Today I  
noticed that tapping DISP only rotates between the VFO B Frequency  
readout and the current date.  Went into CONFIG and TIME and the  
clock was still set to the second.  I’m sure it’s something simple I  
bumped somewhere along the line.


Any help would be appreciated.  Direct preferred as I get the  
reflector in digest mode and on a different computer than this one.


Thanks.

Terry, W0FM
K3/100 #474


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: US call areas

2007-11-26 Thread Rick Dettinger

 I've got to say, back in the olddays, there were always hams who
 complained BECAUSE they were required to change their callsigns if they
 moved, so I think the complaint level is similar.

 73, doug

==
Not only did we have to change our callsigns if we moved, we had to show our
call area when portable and notify the engineer in charge in the area we
operated portable  prior to going on the air.  And we had to monitor
CONALRAD in case WW3 broke out during the QSO.  And log all on the air
activity to justify renewal of our licences.  This was in the late 50's.
73  Rick Dettinger  K7MW


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Re: [Elecraft] Separate list for K3

2007-12-05 Thread Rick Dettinger
I would like everyone considering cancelling thier K3 order due to any
reason to do so at once.  I may yet get my very own K3 by Xmas.  I think my
serial number may already have decreased by one or two.

73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly

2007-12-09 Thread Rick Dettinger



 This may be common sense and/or mentioned in the Assembly Manual but:
 if your Phillips screwdriver does not have a magnetized tip it would
 be a good idea to find a magnet and lightly magnetize the tip. The K3
 is not tiny but it is close quarters inside. In many cases having the
 screwdriver magnetic field hold the screw (and the washer) sure beats
 trying to place the screw with your fingers (as I finally realized).

 Mike   W5FTD


I have found that a small long nose pliers works well for holding nuts or
machine screws in place while applying torque to the other end.
73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW
K3 # (n-?)


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] SN 174 arrived at 11:45z today

2007-12-17 Thread Rick Dettinger

David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] SN 174 arrived at 11:45z today


 Mr Brown knew I was waiting for this, he paused to let me take a photo :)

 Inventory tonight, but real bad cold, so need to feel better before assy.

==

David, we need to know when you placed your order.  Then we can update our
calculations (guess?).
73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Silver tongued devil

2008-01-21 Thread Rick Dettinger

 If you want to know the numbers, Elecraft is currently shipping 15 to
 20 K3s per week, and if the shipping date for current orders is
 mid-April, then there is somewhere between 255 and 340 K3s on order
 right now - simple calculation reveals that result - what more
 information do some folks need?

 73,
 Don W3FPR
Eric indicated that the equation is non linear.  Therefor, I think we need
at least one more data point.  Somewhere around, say, a July 25 order date.
Just as a for instance, of course. :)
73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #266

2008-01-21 Thread Rick Dettinger


 Right, that blows my theory of 250 for the first prodn run! Beginning to
 look like 300 then.

 Chris G3SJJ
Remember that there are about 25 test K3's so the 1st production run could
still be 250 units.
73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Silver tongued devil

2008-01-21 Thread Rick Dettinger


I look forward to my Fully Optioned, Factory Assembled K3 in Feb. or March
(according to Lisa) and I am not worried in the least about any delays
needed to
improve it's performance.

Keep up the good work, Elecraft!

Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq
=

Another data point.  Tom, what we gotta know is,  when did you place the
order?
73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW


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[Elecraft] K3 - New arrival

2008-03-06 Thread Rick Dettinger
K3 kit ordered July 25,  2007.  #556 arrived March 6, 2008.73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW
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Re: [Elecraft] Why buy a K3

2007-06-23 Thread Rick Dettinger


  ...In a nutshell, other than perhaps a second receiver - what
  benefits does the K3 really have over a K2 - (in layman's non-engineer
  language :-)

 Are you interested in CW (K3 has better QSK), SSB (K3 has IF clipping,
 AntiVOX, really good filtering that is easy to use), Data (K3 has an
 internal decoder for RTTY and PSK, and an isolated soundcard interface
 built in), contesting (K3 has a stronger receiver, lower phase noise)?
 Are you plagued by noise (the K3 has a better noise blanker plus DSP
 noise blanking)?  Are you a VHFer (K3 covers 6m, and has FM)?

 73,

 Lyle KK7P
==
I don't do SSB, Data, contesting or VHF but I still want a K3.  I will like
having general coverage and the tuning rate of the K3 is just right.  The K2
rate of 1 khz per turn is too slow and the faster rate has big jumps in the
pitch.  Very annoying to me.  The tuning knob is as good as any and there is
more room on the panel.  Low phase noise sounds good to me but I am not sure
that I ever noticed any problem with my K2 in that respect.   Passband
tuning will be nice, also.  I have never used DSP but i am interested in
trying it.
73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW

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Re: [Elecraft] Sidetone or zero beat

2007-07-11 Thread Rick Dettinger

 Most modern transceivers, including
the Elecraft rigs, have virtually no output within 100 Hz or so of the
carrier frequency, thanks to the excellent I.F. filters they use. That makes
finding zero beat with the sidetone mandatory to avoid an error or 100 Hz or
more in trying to tune onto the other station's frequency.

Ron AC7AC
==
My Drake R4C had good IF filters but I could move the filter over to the
carrier frequency with the excellent passband tuning and see the beat note
on the (analog) S meter.  The needle would go from a fast vibration to a
slower one with more movement as I approched zero beat.  No hearing needed.
This was how I set the xtal calibrator to zero beat with WWV.  Then , I
could read a frequency to the nearest khz, something I could only dream of
with older rigs.

73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW

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Re: [Elecraft] why I chose K3

2007-07-18 Thread Rick Dettinger



 I was just about to spend extra $$$ on rtty and psk gear when up popped
the
 K 3 with that built in.  WOW

 Charles Harpole
==

That must make Yacomwood  very happy to read. (:

Rick Dettinger
K7MW


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft's 1-Year Limited K3 Warranty?

2007-07-30 Thread Rick Dettinger

 That first consumer purchase wording is informative - it could
 indicate that sometime in the future I may be able to buy a new Elecraft
 product over the counter at HRO and other ham gear stores.

 I really don't know if Elecraft is looking at the sales outlet
 possibility seriously, but if it occurs, the warranty now covers it.

 73,
 Don W3FPR
=

I was thinking that HRO couldn't be happy about the K3 as there will be
little reason to buy any other rig.  But if they can sell them, that is
another matter.   I don't know if there is enough markup in the K3 to
support second party retail sales.  It seems like we are getting alot of
radio for the dollar.
73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW


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[Elecraft] K3 serial numbers

2007-08-08 Thread Rick Dettinger
I assume the K3 will have serial numbers like the other Elecraft rigs.  I am
wondering if the numbers will be different for factory build v. kit build?
Anyone heard?  Thanks
73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW


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Re: [Elecraft] Questions for any K3 FTs

2007-08-21 Thread Rick Dettinger

The Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory did a study* of ten homes in
 California and found that between 5% and 25% of the total electrical
demand
 was to supply equipment that was turned off with standby power.

 A fellow might buy a fully-loaded K3 with the savings...

 Ron AC7AC



And remember, if you have air conditioning, you will need to purchase more
electricty to pump this
energy out of your house.  You pay twice.
Rick Dettinger
K7MW


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Re: [Elecraft] Pomona Adapter Query

2007-09-03 Thread Rick Dettinger

 Ken:
 Thanks.  What I already have must not be standard banana plugs, because
they
 won't fit.  Guess I'm going on a shopping trip...
 73.


If I remember correctly, Pomona makes a standard size adaptor and a miniture
one.  I bought the smaller one and I like the size for portable operations
as it fits in a small package better.  I don't know if they make a plug to
fit, but I would think so.  I just double the end of my #24 antenna and
ground wire and tin it.  Insert thru the small hole and tighten the plastic
nut.  It seems to last a long time.  Also, it is field repairable with a
small knife if the wire plug breaks.  I just moved into a new house and
have been using just such a portable antenna for two months now with no
breakage, yet.

73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW


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Re: [Elecraft] smaller caps?

2007-09-19 Thread Rick Dettinger




 Look at the cost of packing, shipping, and storing, say, a DX-100 and
K2/100.
 That all comes out in the price.
 Depends what you mean by normal. And people buy the things.

 73 de Jim, N2EY
=

Also, we didn't have to carry our DX-100's into the computer room to update
the software.

73
Rick Dettinger  K7MW


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Re: [Elecraft] proposal: why not design a monoband CW/SSB QRP TRX

2007-10-24 Thread Rick Dettinger

I had all QSOs on 40 m. 40 m is where the action is,
day and night. Others might favor other bands. But I
would fancy a great monoband transceiver. More than a
decade after the Norcal 40 A, I bet Wayne can amaze us
all again! 72, Chris Hs0zfe


 =

I agree about 40 meters.  I have often said that I could do about 90% of my
operating with my Norcal 40A.  But I disagree about the need for a new 40M
monoband design.  The simple analog design makes it a delight to use.  No
digital quantum jumps in the tuning.  No operation manual or cheat sheet
needed.  The only change for home use would be to use the K2 mixer design
and this would more than double the cost as it involves more than just
subbing a TUF mixer.  Compare the two designs.  The power consumption would
increase considerably.  Mods to customize for user preference are easy.  I
like to use multiturn tuning pots like the K1 uses.
But I still have a K3 on order.

73  Rick Dettinger  K7MW
My rigs and raisins come from Aptos,  CA.


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Re: [Elecraft] Pelican Case for K1

2007-11-19 Thread Rick Dettinger


What Pelican case is a good fit for the K1?

73's -- Norm  K9NK
___

Norm - I use the 1150.  I can just fit a complete, minimalist station in it
with ear buds, Palm Paddles, #24 wire for antenna and counterpoise, pen and
paper.  This was when I used internal batteries.  Now, I use external
batteries which I carry seperately.
73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 in 19inch Rack?

2006-12-25 Thread Rick Dettinger

 Has anyone attempted mounting a K2 into a 19 inch  rack case either
 with or without the case? Its something i am contemplating doing.
 This might be a kit suggestion idea for Elecraft.  A new front
 panel design that will mount in a 19 inch rack case. It certainly
 could enhance the ergonomics of the K2 and breath some  more life
 into the K2 as a fixed station radio.

 Craig
 VK3HE
===

At just under 8 inches wide, you could get two  K2's side by side.  With all
the controls mounted to the K2's front panel board, it would be hard to
expand the size in order to use larger knobs with more clearance between
them.  Maybe new controls mounted on the new panel and wired to the K2 front
panel.  Would need to cut the square holes for the push buttons.  Not for
the faint of heart.  And a hole for the real S meter that a larger K2 would
sport.  And a front panel mounted speaker.   Maybe an analog clook removed
from an old Hammarlund HQ-180 receiver.  While we are at it, lets use those
Hammarlund knobs, too. You wouldn't need to put one hand on the rig to keep
it from sliding across the table top, while checking the filter settings.
My friction coefficient is such that I can tap one button but not two at the
same time without relocating the rig.  Last week I entered the shack to find
the K2 shoved tight aginst the wall.  A small tree had fallen across a guy
for one of my antennas and gave the coax a good yank.  This was due to the
same storm that took Elecrafts Net Control Operator first class off the air
a week ago.  A large enough rack panel might stand up to a tree of that
size.  My tree, not Kevins.

Rick Dettinger
K7MW

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Re: [Elecraft] Norcal Sierra - Wilderness Radio Sierra - Dans SmallParts

2007-03-10 Thread Rick Dettinger


 Why don't you just build a K1 instead?
 I have a Sierra here with all 9 band modules. It is a fine rig, although
 it needed various add-ons (DL-QRP-PA, KC2 Keyer/Counter) to make it nice
 to use.
 If I was starting again, I would get a K1
 73, Dave G3VGR
 K2 #4783
===

I have built both the K1 and Sierra kits.  Advantages of Sierra are all 9
bands and ease of operation.  No manual needed for this non digital radio.
These are the radios I prefer to operate.  No thinking necessary.  And you
ger a real RF gain control.  It  is actually an RF cut control but it does
control the imput to the IF filter, unlike most modern radios.  I think all
other advantages go to the K1.  Over twice the power.  Many Sierra owners do
mods to increase the power, with more or less sucess.  Increasing the
voltage to max is the easiest.  The K1 has optional internal tuner.  The
tuning rate is far better.  At least twice as good.  And tuning is smoother.
And with my kits, the K1 has been more stable.  The conversion schemes for
both are similar so I don't think there should be much preformance
difference.  If you build the Sierra, there are over 80 toroids to wind if
all bands are included.   If the Sierra had the K1 VFO and 5 watts out, I
probably would prefer it to the K1, for home use, but it doesn't so I sold
mine and kept the K1.
Rick Dettinger
K7MW

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Bandwidth Question

2007-03-11 Thread Rick Dettinger
 It wouldn't seem to provide much advantage.  The bandwidth of the
four-pole crystal IF filter may be adjusted in three steps from about 200 to
850 kHz.  The selectivity as designed is outstanding.

 Mike / KK5F
 K1 #175 since 11/2000


 I usually use an outboard audio filter when operating at home.  I agree
that it is not needed for selectivity  but it makes the sidetone sound like
my K2 and I enjoy a clean CW note.  I think one problem with a simple low
pass filter is that the K1 has a wide range of possible sidetone pitch and a
cutoff frequency that would help someone who uses a low pitch as I do would
not pass a high one.  Thus, filters would need to be adjustable or custom
designed for the desired pitch.
Rick Dettinger
K7MW

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Re: [Elecraft] AGC Independent S-Meter?

2007-03-12 Thread Rick Dettinger




For CW signals the solution was easy. One added a hard limiter to the
audio channel. If a really strong signal was encountered without warning, it
was clipped of at some preset maximum volume (below the threshold of pain,
hopefully). Most operators used the limiter at all times in case a huge
signal came on frequency.

Ron AC7AC


I wonder if it is possible to adjust the AGC on the K2 to only work on
strong signals, to act as a hearing protection limiter only, with little
action on all other signals.  I understand this would work for CW only rigs.
I like to use my K2 with AGC off, but value whats left of my hearing.  Was
that why old time commercial operators wore headphones forward of their
ears?  Be hard to do with modern cushion phones.
Rick Dettinger
K7MW



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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 paddle fix?

2007-03-18 Thread Rick Dettinger



  Subject: [Elecraft] KX1 paddle fix?
 
  Any ideas on keeping the paddle screw tight?
 
  Mine seems to work loose easily, Locktite or similar
  would work but I want to remove it.
 
  72, Bob KI0G
===
You might try beeswax.  It can act as a reusable loctite.  Some bicycle
wheel builders use it to  prevent spokes from unwinding from their nipples.
Rick Dettinger  K7MW

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Re: [Elecraft] ELECRAFT K3

2007-04-30 Thread Rick Dettinger


 I did it a couple of times, and wife never found the trick. Maybe you
shall
 inform all visiting OM not to give you away...
 Cheers,
 IK4YNG Paolo
=

Paolo - You left out one important point.  Don't announce the deed on an
open reflector. (:

Rick Dettinger  K7MW


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Re: [Elecraft] {K1 2277] VFO Alignment--VFO Range selection, 40m, 20m.

2007-06-10 Thread Rick Dettinger

: Re: [Elecraft] {K1 2277] VFO Alignment--VFO Range selection, 40m, 20m.


 I had my K1 originally setup for 80 khz.  I redid it for 150 khz.  It
 actually covers about 170 khz now!  It does get a bit touchy, but still
very
 nice.  I have since replaced my ten turn pot (tuning control) with the
metal
 shafted one and it is MUCH better.  The plastic shafted one was OK but
got
 a bit sloppy after a couple of years of use.  If you plan to use the rig
as
 a primary rig, I'd say install the metal shafted pot from the get-go!
They
 are under $20 shipped from Mouser as I remember.  
 73,

 Sandy W5TVW
=

I also changed to 170 khz and like it better now.  I installed the metal
shaft ten turn pot at build time.  It has a nicer feel.  17 khz per turn is
not bad.  I changed to a K2 knob and like that better, also.  It was
necessary to ream the knob hole to 1/4 inch from 6mm.  The K1 knob went on
another rig.
73
Rick Dettinger  K7MW

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Product Ideas

2006-05-20 Thread Rick Dettinger




  1.  A 13.8vdc  dual-6146 TUBE AMPLIFIER, separate box,
  with view of the tubes ... 200 watt PEP. I know
  it may sound odd - but TUBES crank it out better than
  solid state - no matter what they tell us!

 First, you may be hard-pressed to get 200 watts PEP out of a pair of
 6146's. Typically, these babies are 180-200 watts INPUT.
.
-
That was true for linear amps for SSB service but CW purists could crank up
the plate voltage to around 900v. and get 240 watts input class C.  - maybe
170 watts out.  Plans are in the 1975
ARRL handbook. (T9er) .  In linear service, 100 watts out would be about
max.
--
9. Elecraft HF PORTABLE TUNER Kit; meter, dummy
  load option, Elecraft K2 gray, 15/200W ranges.

 The KAT100 doesn't do this? All you need to add is a dummy load.
 ---
I think the KAT100 only does this for the K2.  This new kit would be useable
for all rigs, like the T1.
Rick Dettinger
K7MW

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Product Ideas

2006-05-23 Thread Rick Dettinger
One reason Elecraft (or any other manufactor of kits) would be unlikely to
offer tube amps is that they don't want builders putting der fusin blowing
fingers in a rig with a kilovolt B plus supply.  Or multi kv supply for
high power (QROo?) amps.  One big advantage of solid state rigs.  But I
still can and do blow the fuses.
73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW
- Original Message -
From: Sandy W5TVW [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Bill Coleman [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Fred (FL) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 7:09 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Product Ideas


 My answer would be:  Don't use 6146's!  two Raytheon 4D32's would do the
job much better.  They are
 as cheap as 6146's now.

 73,
 Sandy W5TVW
 - Original Message -
 From: Bill Coleman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Fred (FL) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 10:04 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Product Ideas


 |
 | On May 22, 2006, at 8:35 AM, Fred (FL) wrote:
 |
 |  Anyone out there - think a 200Watt PEP tube
 |  6146 amplifier - would cut it with a K2?
 |  Why?  Why not?
 |
 | You gonna run four tubes to get 200 watt PEP out?
 |
 | I've been through this, Fred. 6146's were great in their day, but
 | that day has passed. Get the KPA100 and mount it in an EC2 case.
 | There's your external amplifier.
 |
 | Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 | Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!
 |  -- Wilbur Wright, 1901
 |
 | ___
 | Elecraft mailing list
 | Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 | You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
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 |
 |
 |
 | --
 | No virus found in this incoming message.
 | Checked by AVG Free Edition.
 | Version: 7.1.392 / Virus Database: 268.6.1/344 - Release Date: 5/19/2006
 |
 |

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 power output measurement accuracy?

2006-05-24 Thread Rick Dettinger

- Original Message -
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 9:29 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 power output measurement accuracy?
 K2 - all it takes is a known non-reactive 50 ohm load.  I use 1% precision
 thick film power resistors, so I know my dummy loads are good to 50 MHz or
 more, and with these loads, I know the base K2 power indication to be
 accurate.

 If you have the basic K2, the power control circuits will adjust the power
 to make the RF voltage at the power detector probe equal to that required
to
 produce the requested power into a 50 ohm load -- but if the load is
 different than 50 ohms (as it will be with a 1.2 SWR), then the power
 indication will not be correct - tosay how far off it will be requires
 knowledge of the resistive and reactive components of the 1.2 SWR (all 1.2
 SWRs are not equal, the range of possibilities form a circle on the Smith
 Chart).

 73,
 Don W3FPR
 ---
With my K2 into a DL1,  my WM-2 meter shows up to 20 % higher power than my
DMM and slide rule indicates.  Is the DL1 likely more accurate than my WM-2
meter.  If so, I will recalibrate my K2 with the DL1 and DDM.  Than I will
have a stronger QRP signal and be able to work 300 new countries.  I could
also recalibrate my WM-2.  Also, I wonder if the K2 maximum output  power is
increased if the voltage goes up.  Just in case I need to cheat a little
with QRO  power (15watts or so).  But I promise not to get an amplifyer.
73 (72)
Rick Dettinger
K7MW

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Re: [Elecraft] Ideas - new Elecraft Products

2006-05-24 Thread Rick Dettinger

- Original Message -
From: Vic K2VCO [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 5:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ideas - new Elecraft Products


 Fred (FL) wrote:

  It is said, McIntosh's TUBE AMPLIFEIRS still draw
  BIG BUCKS, for the hi-fi/stereo buff.  Why?

 Because some people confuse superstition and science.
 --
 73,
 Vic, K2VCO
 Fresno CA
--
When I worked for a power company, our customer representative got a call
from a customer  wanting to know how his power was generated .  He had read
an article in a stereo magazine informing the readers that power generated
by natural means (hydro,wind or solar) would produce more natural sounding
music.  Its hard for engineers to give advice in such instances.  My impulse
was to tell him that our power was not only natural but organic also.
Rick Dettinger
K7MW

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Re: [Elecraft] Wha'ts Wrong With Our Radios (WAS:NewProducts, Building Demo, ...

2006-05-28 Thread Rick Dettinger
Bill said: 
 If we made these old radios 10 or 12 tall, how do we effectively use  
 all the space in the box more than 5 above the chassis?
-
---
It makes a nice warm place to raise the bread dough (:
Rick DettingerK7MW

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Re: [Elecraft] re: K1 frequency range

2006-06-11 Thread Rick Dettinger

- Original Message -
From: rlpend [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 10:55 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] re: K1 frequency range


 If I exchange C2 with C2a to expand frequency coverage to c. 150 khz
 will I need to re-peak all the filters and re-calibrate the receiver?
 Thanks.

 P.S.: the backlight kit is a wonderful addition to the K1.

 Bob N5JYW
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I just made this change.  No need to re-peak the filters or re-calibrate the
frequency readout.  I did, however, have to adjust the turns on the VFO
coil, to get the VFO range in spec.  I don't remember if I had to expand or
compress the turns.  I am happy with the result.  I get about 170 khz tuning
range.  Thats an average of 17 khz per turn.  Not bad.   And the backlite is
a nice touch.
73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW

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Re: [Elecraft] High End Paddles

2006-06-16 Thread Rick Dettinger




 Using a bug is a very a *physical* activity compared to
keyer paddles.

Ron AC7AC

Yes, the way Morse code should be.  A full contact sport.  When my shoulder
gets sore from pumping my Swedish hand key, I switch to my bug for some
rest.
Rick Dettinger
K7MW



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Re: [Elecraft] Melted J3 Connector on K2/100

2006-06-19 Thread Rick Dettinger




So if you melted your Anderson connector, it had unusually high resistance
for some reason.
Ron AC7AC

-
And a relativly large voltage drop.  This would show up as a low voltage at
the rig.  This is why it is important to monitor the voltage at the rig.  If
there is an unexpected low voltage at the K2, the cause needs to be
determined.
Rick Dettinger
K7MW
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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 in K2/100

2006-06-19 Thread Rick Dettinger
John - KI6WX said:
(fyi - the 
 reflector generated over 2000 emails in the last 2 months).
==
No wonder I havn't got the house painted!
Rick Dettinger
K7MW

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 # 2208

2006-06-20 Thread Rick Dettinger


 Hello All...
I am delighted to report K1 # 2208 came to life June 18th and can be
 found lurking on the low end of 20 and 40 meters been wanting one of
 these little jewels for a long time and after reading all the great
reports
 and info here worked up my courage took the plunge ... am very happy with
 the results... now need to convience myself I can manage to build a K2...
 73 de W8MLL
-
I have built both and would say that if you can build the K1, you can build
the K2.  It just takes about 3 times as long.  The individual operations are
about the same.  If you install each component  correctly, you will have a
working radio.  If not, you will learn alot about troubleshooting.
73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW

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Re: [Elecraft] Watkins-Johnson (now audio filters)

2006-06-22 Thread Rick Dettinger

 Alex,

 I recently built an Idiom Press SCAF-1 audio filter and it was a vast
improvement for my Icom-706IIG (it doesn't do much if anything for the K2).

 73,
 Doug
 W6JD

==
I built the SCAF 1 and agree with one exception:  I don't have good
communication headphones and use Sony stereo 'phones.  These are hifi and I
get serious thumps from the K2, even with the AF 1 turned on.  This is true
with other rigs as well.  The SCAF 1 removes this noise.  I just need to
make sure I don't overdrive the SCAF 1 as it is very sensitive to this.  The
filter really cleans up less than pure sidetone audio, too.  I would like to
get some good communication 'phones, without the microphone thingee.  Any
recommendations.  I like the kind that seal out external noise.  I like to
use a bug but the damper clacking is distracting to me.
73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW

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Re: [Elecraft] Antennas for use with Elecraft T1 ATU

2006-07-06 Thread Rick Dettinger

 I find the T1 does very well with a very high impedance. I end feed
 1/2 wave wire connected right to the T1 with a counterpoise and it
 matches right up! I ran a test and the T1 can match a 4700 ohm resistor.
 So it's not bad with high resistance.

 73 Karl
==
I wonder if an end fed  half wave antenna is a high resistance if a
counterpoise is used.  This actually would look like a 3/4 wave (with a
quarter wave counterpoise) offset fed antenna with no feedline.  This would
be a resonant antenna with a few hundred ohms at the feedpoint.  Most of the
radiation should be from the half wave section so should be an efficient
antenna.
73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW

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Re: [Elecraft] Anyone compare K2 RX with a classic rig?

2006-07-07 Thread Rick Dettinger



Hi folks,

Lately, I've been on the hunt for a 2nd receiver just for fun.  I'm
looking for Drake R-4B.  During this time, I've been wondering if I'll
want to put a full B-Line on the air or will just have an R-4B as a
backup RX.  The answer to that depends largely on how the R-4B (or A if
that's what I end up with) sounds  performs compared to the K2.

I continue to be impressed with the K2 receiver.  I'm wondering how it
compares to the R-4* receivers or any other non-DSP boat anchor classic
receiver from years gone by.  I've already compared it to an Omni V and
IC-735 and the K2 was better than either.  We won't even talk about how
much better the K2's RX is than the Century 21 or Century 22 :-)  I had
a very mint TS-830s but not at the same time as the K2 so I didn't get a
chance to compare them.

K2 vs. Drake R-4B; there are several things we know going in.  K2 uses
xtal filtering in the IF.  R-4(A,B) use LC.  K2 is single conversion,
R-4* is triple.  This suggests to me that the K2 will have better
rejection of off freq signals and a better S/N ratio.  Actual results
are TBD.

I'm sure at least one of you has a classic Drake or Collins rig that
you've had a chance to compare to the K2.  What say ye?

- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 -
=
Keith - I had an R4C and liked it alot.  However, it can't compare with
the K2 for receiver dynamics.  Unless it has the Sherwood Engr. front end
mods.  More important to me is the QSK with the K2.  The R4C used vox for
keying.  In my opinion, the greatest advantage to modern rigs is the QSK
keying.  Its like turning the lights on in a dark room.  And as far as
dynamic range goes, not only does the K2 have all the boat anchors beat, but
I think the K1 does also.  Recently, QST reviewed an old Collins and found
an IMD dynamic range in the low 70's.  The K1 is about  20 db better.
However, you will enjoy using the Drake.  Besides an ergo layout and  real
knobs, it has proper passband tuning (at the expense of several stages of
conversion)  and an analog S meter.  I may be thinking of of a K3 here.
73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW

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Re: [Elecraft] Straight Key on my K2

2006-07-31 Thread Rick Dettinger





One of these days I'm going to build a jack box that will have several
jacks all paralleled together into a common 1/8 TRS output.  That way I
can plug in many things, mixing and matching keys as the spirit moves.

- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 -
=
Keith  - I am going to do the same thing, but with a switch to be able to
output to different rigs.  Its importamt to be mindfull of grounds.
Otherwise, the circuit might not be long enough (a little short), if the key
bases touch.   Ideally, I would like to do this in the keyer box.  Right
now, I have multiple jacks in my keyer box in parallel with my keyer output
jack but I have to move plug to the rig de jour.  I need to decide on RCA or
mini phone jacks at the keyer.  I am leaning toward RCA as I have had better
luck with reliability that way.  Someday.
Rick Dettinger
K7MW___
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