Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-04-03 Thread Stuart Stevenson
using the hobbing setup should allow the spindle to drive a linear axis
instead of  rotary axis then MPG tapping is possible

On Sat, Apr 3, 2010 at 12:26 PM, Stephen Wille Padnos wrote:

> Stuart Stevenson wrote:
> > driving the spindle with an MPG would allow EMC2 to tap a hole in manual
> > mode - interesting no?
> >
> Would be, if EMC2 actually geared to the spindle ;)
>
> You wouldn't be able to do the "1/2 turn forward/1/4 turn back" method
> though.
>
> (which would have been much much easier doing 1/2" taps into steel, like
> I did in the military)
>
> - Steve
>
>
>
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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-04-03 Thread Stephen Wille Padnos
Stuart Stevenson wrote:
> driving the spindle with an MPG would allow EMC2 to tap a hole in manual
> mode - interesting no?
>
Would be, if EMC2 actually geared to the spindle ;)

You wouldn't be able to do the "1/2 turn forward/1/4 turn back" method 
though.

(which would have been much much easier doing 1/2" taps into steel, like 
I did in the military)

- Steve


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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-04-03 Thread Stuart Stevenson
driving the spindle with an MPG would allow EMC2 to tap a hole in manual
mode - interesting no?


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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-04-03 Thread Stephen Wille Padnos


Jon Elson wrote:
> Frank Tkalcevic wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>
>> Nope, you are exactly right.  On both accounts.  Turning the spindle by hand
>> will make Z move until it gets to the Z specified in G33/33.1 then stop.
>> G33.1 will move back, but only when it is within the G33.1 bounds.
>>
>>  
> Are you sure?  When the tap reaches the commanded depth, the command is
> given to reverse the spindle.
> EMC has no way to know how long that takes, so it has to continue moving
> Z forward until the spindle can slow to a stop and begin reversing.
> If the Z feed actually stopped immediately when the depth was reached,
> it would break the tap.  At least this applies to G33.1
> The behavior should be different between G33 and G33.1  On the G33, it
> is assumed you have made provisions for the proper exit of the tool from
> the work at the end of the single-point threading pass.  On a G33.1, the
> tap is buried in the workpiece, and Z MUST stay in sync absolutely until
> the tap is fully backed out of the work, no matter how much the spindle
> overshoots when it is commanded to reverse.
>
Rigid tapping is a little bit of a special case.  Motion is synched to 
the forward-moving spindle until the reversal is detected, at which time 
motion is synched to the reversed spindle.  I don't think that Z will 
track if you manually wiggle the spindle back and forth, in either 
direction.

- Steve


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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-04-03 Thread Jon Elson
Frank Tkalcevic wrote:
>  
>   
>
> Nope, you are exactly right.  On both accounts.  Turning the spindle by hand
> will make Z move until it gets to the Z specified in G33/33.1 then stop.
> G33.1 will move back, but only when it is within the G33.1 bounds.
>   
Are you sure?  When the tap reaches the commanded depth, the command is 
given to reverse the spindle.
EMC has no way to know how long that takes, so it has to continue moving 
Z forward until the spindle can slow to a stop and begin reversing.
If the Z feed actually stopped immediately when the depth was reached, 
it would break the tap.  At least this applies to G33.1
The behavior should be different between G33 and G33.1  On the G33, it 
is assumed you have made provisions for the proper exit of the tool from 
the work at the end of the single-point threading pass.  On a G33.1, the 
tap is buried in the workpiece, and Z MUST stay in sync absolutely until 
the tap is fully backed out of the work, no matter how much the spindle 
overshoots when it is commanded to reverse.

Jon

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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-04-03 Thread Alex Joni


> Anyway, on the basis that a picture is worth a thousand words, here
> are approximatelt 2000 pictures.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZhICrb0Tbn4
>
> --
> atp
>
>
The video is great, so is the result.
But the captions from youtube are hilarious ;) sounds like it has a bit 
of a problem with your accent.

Regards,
Alex

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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing: really cool

2010-04-03 Thread Cathrine Hribar


Hi Andy:

Just wanted to say thanks for showing ur video of hobbing. It inspires the 
rest of us to get off our a-- and do something.  did u make the indexing 
fixture your self??

Really cool:

Bill



On Sat, 3 Apr 2010 01:20:34 +0100
  Andy Pugh  wrote:
> On 3 April 2010 01:07, Frank Tkalcevic  wrote:
> 
>> G33 sounds more complicated.  Won't G33 have problems requiring the spindle
>> turning under power, being "at-speed", and then synching with index pulse?
> 
> The spindle definitely does not need to be under power or at-speed. I
> am not sure about the index pulse, but if it does then you only have
> to turn it far enough to get an index then align the clock.
> 
> I think G33.1 will wind back out (it is the tapping code) but I am not
> sure it will reverse more than once. It's not hard to find out though.
> 
> -- 
> atp
> 
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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-04-03 Thread Mark Wendt (Contractor)
At 04:45 PM 4/2/2010, you wrote:
>In the end I went for a fast rotary axis based on a 3/4"
>straight-shank ER32 collet chuck from eBay (about £15) with a 6:1 belt
>drive to a NEMA 23 stepper. This is held between taper-roller bearings
>in a housing that bolts to the table.
>The hob is mounted in the milling spindle, and the spindle is set over
>at the correct angle to suit the lead angle of the hob.
>In the HAL file there is a direct link from the spindle position to
>the rotary axis position, with a scaling factor to suit the number of
>teeth to be cut. This keeps the two axes in permanent synchronisation.
>The number of teeth comes from a spinbox in a PyVCP panel.
>(I need to find a way to zero the encoder and steppgen when the number
>of teeth is changed, otherwise it tries to re-synch when I change the
>tooth count).
>
>Anyway, on the basis that a picture is worth a thousand words, here
>are approximatelt 2000 pictures.
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZhICrb0Tbn4
>
>--
>atp


Andy,

 That's pretty slick!  It worked out 
great.  Ain't it great when it all comes together?

Mark

PS:  Anybody ever tell ya you have an accent? =8^Þ 



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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-04-02 Thread Frank Tkalcevic
 

> -Original Message-
> From: Stephen Wille Padnos [mailto:spad...@sover.net] 
> Sent: Saturday, 3 April 2010 11:54 AM
> To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing
> 
> Andy Pugh wrote:
> > On 3 April 2010 01:07, Frank 
> Tkalcevic  wrote:
> >> G33 sounds more complicated.  Won't G33 have problems 
> requiring the 
> >> spindle turning under power, being "at-speed", and then 
> synching with index pulse?
> >>  
> > The spindle definitely does not need to be under power or 
> at-speed. I 
> > am not sure about the index pulse, but if it does then you 
> only have 
> > to turn it far enough to get an index then align the clock.
> >
> > I think G33.1 will wind back out (it is the tapping code) 
> but I am not 
> > sure it will reverse more than once. It's not hard to find 
> out though.
> >
> I don't think so.  The rigid tapping code expects the spindle 
> to only go forward while it's tapping, and to only go 
> backward when it's retracting the tap.  The way 
> spindle-synched motion works at the moment, motion goes 
> forward as long as the spindle moves forward, motion stops if 
> the spindle stops or reverses, and forward motion will 
> continue when the spindle goes past its previous furthest 
> excursion.  So if you stop the spindle and turn it 1/4 turn 
> backwards, there will be no axis motion until you have moved 
> it past the point where you stopped it - 1/4 turn forward.  
> If you wiggle it back and forth, without ever passing that 
> mark, there will be no axis motion.
> 
> This is as I understand it, but I could be wrong.


Nope, you are exactly right.  On both accounts.  Turning the spindle by hand
will make Z move until it gets to the Z specified in G33/33.1 then stop.
G33.1 will move back, but only when it is within the G33.1 bounds.

I had a quick try at modifying my .hal file, and it worked, but I left a lot
of other things in there that made the axis fault if I turned it too far.  I
should be able to get that working, which will be fine for what I'm trying
to do.

Thanks,
Frank


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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-04-02 Thread Stephen Wille Padnos
Andy Pugh wrote:
> On 3 April 2010 01:07, Frank Tkalcevic  wrote:
>> G33 sounds more complicated.  Won't G33 have problems requiring the spindle
>> turning under power, being "at-speed", and then synching with index pulse?
>>  
> The spindle definitely does not need to be under power or at-speed. I
> am not sure about the index pulse, but if it does then you only have
> to turn it far enough to get an index then align the clock.
>
> I think G33.1 will wind back out (it is the tapping code) but I am not
> sure it will reverse more than once. It's not hard to find out though.
>
I don't think so.  The rigid tapping code expects the spindle to only go 
forward while it's tapping, and to only go backward when it's retracting 
the tap.  The way spindle-synched motion works at the moment, motion 
goes forward as long as the spindle moves forward, motion stops if the 
spindle stops or reverses, and forward motion will continue when the 
spindle goes past its previous furthest excursion.  So if you stop the 
spindle and turn it 1/4 turn backwards, there will be no axis motion 
until you have moved it past the point where you stopped it - 1/4 turn 
forward.  If you wiggle it back and forth, without ever passing that 
mark, there will be no axis motion.

This is as I understand it, but I could be wrong.

- Steve

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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-04-02 Thread Andy Pugh
On 3 April 2010 01:07, Frank Tkalcevic  wrote:

> G33 sounds more complicated.  Won't G33 have problems requiring the spindle
> turning under power, being "at-speed", and then synching with index pulse?

The spindle definitely does not need to be under power or at-speed. I
am not sure about the index pulse, but if it does then you only have
to turn it far enough to get an index then align the clock.

I think G33.1 will wind back out (it is the tapping code) but I am not
sure it will reverse more than once. It's not hard to find out though.

-- 
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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-04-02 Thread Frank Tkalcevic
> 
> > Which pins to you connect together?  I want to be able to 
> do this to 
> > keep a dial indicator in the groove of a ballscrew when I try to 
> > center it in the lathe.  When I turn the chuck, I want the 
> feedscrew to move.
> 
> It was (hm2_7i43.0.).encoder.00.position => mult2.in 
> mult2.out => (hm2_7i43.0.).stepgen.3.position-cmd I think.
> 
> But cradek's way is much better.
> 
> G33 does nothing until the spindle moves, so is probably ideal.
> 

I'll have a play with that.  I like the way you turned the spindle by hand
and the synchronised one moved too.  That's what I want to do to center the
ballscrew in the 4-jaw chuck - even if it means having a second hal config
just for that.  

G33 sounds more complicated.  Won't G33 have problems requiring the spindle
turning under power, being "at-speed", and then synching with index pulse?


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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-04-02 Thread Andy Pugh
On 2 April 2010 23:19, Frank Tkalcevic  wrote:

> Which pins to you connect together?  I want to be able to do this to keep a
> dial indicator in the groove of a ballscrew when I try to center it in the
> lathe.  When I turn the chuck, I want the feedscrew to move.

It was (hm2_7i43.0.).encoder.00.position => mult2.in
mult2.out => (hm2_7i43.0.).stepgen.3.position-cmd I think.

But cradek's way is much better.

G33 does nothing until the spindle moves, so is probably ideal.

-- 
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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-04-02 Thread Chris Radek
On Sat, Apr 03, 2010 at 09:19:35AM +1100, Frank Tkalcevic wrote:
> 
> Which pins to you connect together?  I want to be able to do this to keep a
> dial indicator in the groove of a ballscrew when I try to center it in the
> lathe.  When I turn the chuck, I want the feedscrew to move.

You could just use G33 or even better G33.1 to do this, with no
hal changes needed.


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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-04-02 Thread Frank Tkalcevic
That is really nicely done.

> In the HAL file there is a direct link from the spindle 
> position to the rotary axis position, with a scaling factor 
> to suit the number of teeth to be cut. This keeps the two 
> axes in permanent synchronisation.

Which pins to you connect together?  I want to be able to do this to keep a
dial indicator in the groove of a ballscrew when I try to center it in the
lathe.  When I turn the chuck, I want the feedscrew to move.


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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-04-02 Thread Andy Pugh
In the end I went for a fast rotary axis based on a 3/4"
straight-shank ER32 collet chuck from eBay (about £15) with a 6:1 belt
drive to a NEMA 23 stepper. This is held between taper-roller bearings
in a housing that bolts to the table.
The hob is mounted in the milling spindle, and the spindle is set over
at the correct angle to suit the lead angle of the hob.
In the HAL file there is a direct link from the spindle position to
the rotary axis position, with a scaling factor to suit the number of
teeth to be cut. This keeps the two axes in permanent synchronisation.
The number of teeth comes from a spinbox in a PyVCP panel.
(I need to find a way to zero the encoder and steppgen when the number
of teeth is changed, otherwise it tries to re-synch when I change the
tooth count).

Anyway, on the basis that a picture is worth a thousand words, here
are approximatelt 2000 pictures.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZhICrb0Tbn4

-- 
atp

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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-03-07 Thread Andy Pugh
On 7 March 2010 09:29, Erik Christiansen  wrote:

> The hob must always cut at the gear helix angle, so that alone
> determines the hob helix positioning. The hob axis then ends up where
> the hob helix puts it. There does not appear to be any options there.
> (According to the grindings of my mental gears, anyway.)

Indeed not, I checked this with my dad.
The textbook explanation of a helical gear is that it is a stack of
conventional gears side by side with a phase difference, to that the
tooth meshing and un-meshing is evened out. However if you try to cut
it like that then the hob will cut excess material from the adjacent
"conceptual gears" and you end up with very thin teeth.
For this reason the hob always runs at right angles to the tooth flanks.

> They insist on feeding "parallel to the blank's axis of rotation", and
> cite a supporting reference. I can't see that working, though, except
> for free-wheel hobbing.

If you look at that picture again:
http://school.mech.uwa.edu.au/~dwright/DANotes/gears/photos/BrownHobbing.jpeg
You can see that the direction of travel of the cutter is parallel to
the blank axis. (it is the slide covered by the bellows). In a
conventional hobbing machine there is a differential gear arrangement
such that the gear rotational position is a ratio of the hob
rotational position, plus a proportion of the cutter axial position.
(This would be very easy to do in EMC, as I think you have already mentioned).
I have seen a pretty good diagram of the gear train that does this,
but I can't find it now.

Anyway, I have concluded that I don't have the axis separation I need
to make the gears I want to make using the lathe spindle as the cutter
axis, and I could not see an easy, rigid, way to adjust the
blank-to-hob distance, so I am now back to Plan A, which involves
making my milling head tilt-able (which will also mean that I need to
add an encoder on the milling head, which was always the long-term
plan anyway)

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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-03-07 Thread Andy Pugh
On 7 March 2010 11:41, Dave Caroline  wrote:
>
> see diagram at top of page http://www.collection.archivist.info/hobbing.html

Ah, yes that is where I saw that diagram.

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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-03-07 Thread Dave Caroline
For a helical gear the blank rotates and its no longer a simple 40:1
for a 40 tooth helical gear, a mechanical hobbing machine has a
differencial gear to add or subtract the rotation with cut.
see diagram at top of page http://www.collection.archivist.info/hobbing.html

I have done the maths in gcode to make a helical, it was milled but
the principle is the same
http://www.youtube.com/user/davethearchivist?feature=mhw4#p/a/u/1/HAtziCsUj5Q

I tilt the B axis(tooth helix angle) and rotate the A axis(pitch of helix)

Dave Caroline

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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-03-07 Thread Erik Christiansen
On Sat, Mar 06, 2010 at 12:31:04PM +, Andy Pugh wrote:
> On 6 March 2010 07:58, Erik Christiansen  wrote:
> >  From the photographs, that makes
> > the feed perpendicular to the hob axis, which seems to me to ignore the
> > helix angle. How that creates a spur gear with proper gaps, is not clear
> > to me.
> 
> I don't think it does. I was intending to set the vertical slide at an
> angle and use coordinated motion in X and Z so that the blank moves
> along it's true axis.

Ah, yes, of course. (Maybe if I have "coordinated motion" tattooed inside
my eyelids, I won't keep forgetting that option.)

Yes, if the gear helix doesn't match the hob helix angle, then the
vertical slide needs to be rotated.

> > On the other hand, preferring the quiet running of helical gears to the
> > whine of spur gears, I have run the above setup in my mind, with (a
> > virtual) EMC advancing the phase of the gear blank as it is fed across
> > the rotating hob. If the rate of phase advance matches the helix angle,
> > then the blank should come out the other side as a helical gear, I
> > believe. (And both blank and feed are perpendicular to the hob axis.
> > What could be simpler?)
> 
> I am not sure. It depends in if a helical gear is conceptually a gear
> with the teeth rotated on the surface, or a stack of infinitely thin
> gears with a pitch difference between each.
> In this picture:
> http://school.mech.uwa.edu.au/~dwright/DANotes/gears/photos/BrownHobbing.jpeg
> The hob axis seems to be tilted to match the gear helix angle, rather
> than the hob helix angle.

The hob must always cut at the gear helix angle, so that alone
determines the hob helix positioning. The hob axis then ends up where
the hob helix puts it. There does not appear to be any options there.
(According to the grindings of my mental gears, anyway.)

Looking for some support on this, I found a simpler way to hob helical
gears: Just crank the hob over some more:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hobbing

They insist on feeding "parallel to the blank's axis of rotation", and
cite a supporting reference. I can't see that working, though, except
for free-wheel hobbing.

> I think that in either case you ideally want to match the hob helix
> angle to cut a true gear form.

For the feed angle, yes. But if you use coordinate motion, you've solved
that without effort. If my changing the gearblank's phase, while feeding it
across the hob, is equivalent to your coordinate motion to simulate
skewed feed, then it should work as well. Since a helical gear meshed
with a worm must either move with your coordinate motion, or rotate, to
pass its teeth across the worm, I think they're equivalent. (OK, your
method is probably easier in gcode, so I'd go with it too.) 

> I did discuss this with my dad (50 years a gearbox machinist then
> designer then service manager) but he seemed unable to grasp that the
> feeds and drives are trivial with CNC, but the axis geometry is less
> so)

What he knows is easy for him. What we haven't done yet is hard for us.

Erik

-- 
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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-03-06 Thread Ian W. Wright
Hi Dave,

I haven't checked the wheel for accuracy but I would think that this 
method of generation actually is less prone to errors than methods which 
cut each tooth separately. Once the teeth are established as to number 
and you infeed the wheel onto the tap, there are always at least 3 
cutting teeth (threads) in contact with the wheel at any one time and 
this should even out the effects of any minor errors in the tap pitch. I 
also usually feed the worm along the tap a little each way as I cut 
which will again reduce errors by using different parts of the tap. I 
don't know whether there would be any benefit in reducing cyclic errors 
by producing only wheels with an odd number of teeth like 91 instead of 
90 - I did work out what the error would be if I could only make a 91 
tooth one and set EMC2 up to suit it and, from what I remember, the 
error was infinitessimal. The great beauty of this method is that you 
can make a wheel from scratch in just a few minutes. I simply set up a 
post with the same diameter as the bore of the blank on my miller's bed 
( actually made as a tube sleeve over a bolt ), slipped a spacer onto it 
( a second wheel blank) and then the wheel blank I wanted to cut and 
capped it off with a nut and washer to stop the blank lifting during 
cutting. The cutter was a normal 10mm x 1mm tap and, with the blank 
initially set to centre height of the cutter, I wound the blank into the 
cutter so as to take a fairly hefty cut as I found that this was the 
easiest way to establish a set of even teeth ( i.e. not 90 1/2!). Then I 
just left the thing running merrily along as I slowly wound the blank 
further in until I thought that the teeth in the wheel were deep enough 
- i.e. not quite full depth on the tap so that I didn't get 'bottoming' 
when using the finished worm. Once this stage was reached I decided that 
I wanted the teeth to be 'flat' across the wheel so that I could remove 
it from the rotary without having to disturb the worm ( don't know why 
but it just seemed like a good idea at the time...) and so I then wound 
the knee of the machine up and down slowly as the work was still 
spinning away. On other wheels I have made (which I made on the lathe) I 
didn't do this and so the worm and wheel make contact for maybe 1/3 of 
the worm's diameter - this may be better - I don't know. Anyway, the 
whole cutting job and subsequent cleaning up took only about 5 minutes 
per wheel. The other thing I did was to mount the wheel on an eccentric 
in the rotary table so that I can easily adjust backlash if necessary to 
compensate for wear - that hasn't been necessary yet..

Why not make one and try out this way - it costs nothing except a bit of 
scrap material and maybe half an hour

Best wishes,
Ian
__
Ian W. Wright
Sheffield  UK

Dave Caroline wrote:
> Looks nice Ian but I would love to measure the wheel for errors in
> tooth to tooth distance. We had trouble directly attributable to the
> worm and wheel in a bought dividing head, we made some 144 tooth
> wheels for a project at the BHI and they were rightly rejected, for
> normal clock work the error did not show or was withing tolerance but
> for a high count the error becomes pronounced.
>
> The easy check I use to test dividing now is get your digital
> calipers, measure over n teeth, zero caliper , rinse repeat but only
> zero if less than a previous measurement. you then see a large
> percentage change in places around the wheel if you have a dividing
> error its due to worm/wheel form error giving a sawtooth error to the
> dividing.
>
> Dave Caroline
>
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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-03-06 Thread Andy Pugh
On 6 March 2010 07:58, Erik Christiansen  wrote:

> In MEW 75, another author used a couple of CMOS chips for the
> programmable divider between the spindle encoder and stepper driver, to
> select the number of teeth.

This is very easy to set up in HAL (and quite amusing too, watching
the rotary axis turn as you turn the chuck to tighten it, for example)

> That setup has the hob running on a mandrel between lathe headstock and
> tailstock. The stepper-driven spindle holding the gear blank is mounted
> on a vertical slide on the cross-slide.

That is probably the setup I will try first, mainly as it needs the
least extra hardware.

>  From the photographs, that makes
> the feed perpendicular to the hob axis, which seems to me to ignore the
> helix angle. How that creates a spur gear with proper gaps, is not clear
> to me.

I don't think it does. I was intending to set the vertical slide at an
angle and use coordinated motion in X and Z so that the blank moves
along it's true axis.

> On the other hand, preferring the quiet running of helical gears to the
> whine of spur gears, I have run the above setup in my mind, with (a
> virtual) EMC advancing the phase of the gear blank as it is fed across
> the rotating hob. If the rate of phase advance matches the helix angle,
> then the blank should come out the other side as a helical gear, I
> believe. (And both blank and feed are perpendicular to the hob axis.
> What could be simpler?)

I am not sure. It depends in if a helical gear is conceptually a gear
with the teeth rotated on the surface, or a stack of infinitely thin
gears with a pitch difference between each.
In this picture:
http://school.mech.uwa.edu.au/~dwright/DANotes/gears/photos/BrownHobbing.jpeg
The hob axis seems to be tilted to match the gear helix angle, rather
than the hob helix angle.
I think that in either case you ideally want to match the hob helix
angle to cut a true gear form.

I did discuss this with my dad (50 years a gearbox machinist then
designer then service manager) but he seemed unable to grasp that the
feeds and drives are trivial with CNC, but the axis geometry is less
so)

-- 
atp

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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-03-06 Thread Dave Caroline
Looks nice Ian but I would love to measure the wheel for errors in
tooth to tooth distance. We had trouble directly attributable to the
worm and wheel in a bought dividing head, we made some 144 tooth
wheels for a project at the BHI and they were rightly rejected, for
normal clock work the error did not show or was withing tolerance but
for a high count the error becomes pronounced.

The easy check I use to test dividing now is get your digital
calipers, measure over n teeth, zero caliper , rinse repeat but only
zero if less than a previous measurement. you then see a large
percentage change in places around the wheel if you have a dividing
error its due to worm/wheel form error giving a sawtooth error to the
dividing.

Dave Caroline

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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-03-06 Thread Ian W. Wright
 >>I also have a photograph around here somewhere, 
of a wormwheel being
free-wheel hobbed with a tap held in the lathe chuck.>>>

Been there - done that very successfully several times.. 
The biggest problem is in getting the wheel blank to be the 
right size before cutting and in taking an appropriate sized 
bite out of it on the first run round with the tap to 
establish the right number of teeth - its a bit 
hit-and-miss. Having said that, I have made a number of 
wormwheels which have worked very well including the one on 
my current 4th axis. In this case, I wanted one of 90T and 
the first attempt produced one with 92T - I could have used 
that one with no problems but I decided to have another go 
and the second one gave me 90T with no problems. Its made of 
brass and, since I wanted to be able to dismantle the rotary 
without too much effort, I decided I needed straight teeth, 
not concave as are made by a single pass of the tap, and so 
I cut the wheel on my little horizontal miller and, once the 
teeth were formed and to depth, gently tracked the table up 
and down to cut the teeth to the edge of the brass blank. 
The worm is just a length of screwed rod the same size as 
the tap - lathe cut on decent quality and finish stainless 
steel You can see the wormwheel and worm after a couple 
of years regular use at 
http://www.watchman.talktalk.net/temp/Rotary%20table/rot1.jpg

Ian W. Wright
Sheffield  UK

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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-03-06 Thread Dave Caroline
Some do not realize a hob is by definition a helical cutter for
generating a form.
A single or multiple slot cutter is a milling cutter. Where the user
needs some quality and accuracy then the ME method is a bit of a bodge
but can give reasonable results relating to the quality of the cutter.
One can with rack form generate involute form by running a cut
shifting the cutter and rotating the blank a small amount and
recutting this is how a gear shaper/shaver works, they also use a gear
form cutter to shape internal teeth this way.

Dave Caroline

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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-03-06 Thread Erik Christiansen
On Fri, Mar 05, 2010 at 01:23:46PM +, Andy Pugh wrote:

> I am thinking of making a faster rotary axis using an ER32 collet
> holder I have on a 3/4" ground shaft and some taper roller bearings. I
> would drive that with a spare stepper I have, at about 10:1 ratio. (or
> one of the little servos)
> I can't believe that there are very large rotating forces on a gear
> during hobbing, I think it is probably largely balanced.

The proof of that seems to be in the success of free-wheel hobbing. In
MEW 78 [1], a gashed blank is fed into a hob, without any form of
synchronisation. i.e. The forces must be "restorative", not disruptive,
in order to spontaneously push a gashed blank into synchronisation. The
photograph of the finished gear is not large enough to show if it is
more than "useable", which is all that he claims.

I also have a photograph around here somewhere, of a wormwheel being
free-wheel hobbed with a tap held in the lathe chuck.

In MEW 75, another author used a couple of CMOS chips for the
programmable divider between the spindle encoder and stepper driver, to
select the number of teeth. He describes no problems with cutting
forces, other than cutting to the tooth depth in three passes in harder
steel. Otherwise he just sets the depth, and cuts the teeth in one pass,
in an ungashed blank.

That setup has the hob running on a mandrel between lathe headstock and
tailstock. The stepper-driven spindle holding the gear blank is mounted
on a vertical slide on the cross-slide. From the photographs, that makes
the feed perpendicular to the hob axis, which seems to me to ignore the
helix angle. How that creates a spur gear with proper gaps, is not clear
to me.

On the other hand, preferring the quiet running of helical gears to the
whine of spur gears, I have run the above setup in my mind, with (a
virtual) EMC advancing the phase of the gear blank as it is fed across
the rotating hob. If the rate of phase advance matches the helix angle,
then the blank should come out the other side as a helical gear, I
believe. (And both blank and feed are perpendicular to the hob axis.
What could be simpler?)

Checking that with another thought experiment, we run the helical gear
on a rotating matching worm. As the gear is slid back and forth on its
axis, its rotation advances and retards in accord with the helix angle.

Hmmm ... where can I dig up physical examples quickest, to try it out?

Incidentally, if choosing to generate the tooth profile, using a
straight (no helix) hob, then that slow process can be accelerated by
making a three or four tooth hob. It cuts the prior iteration on the
previous tooth and the next iteration on the next tooth, speeding up the
process. (Or providing a cleaner tooth form for a given number of
iterations.) There was an article on that in MEW 107.

Hopefully some of that is useful, Andy.

Erik

[1] www.model-engineer.co.uk says it is putting 130 back issues on line,
but will be charging a subscription.

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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-03-05 Thread robert
On 05/03/2010 18:10, Kirk Wallace wrote:
>
> The problems with trying to replicate hobbing with CNC rotary axes are,
> the rotary encoders would need to be very high resolution, feedback and
> command control very tight, and data throughput high enough to keep up.
> I think it has been stated before that current systems aren't up to the
> task. I think it would be great to have someone try, but I think the
> odds are against any success.
>

iv cut gears with just a standard involute gear cuter it works grate, 
but hobbing it would or should make it alot quicker process. i guess 
also comes down to how acerate you wish to make these gears etc also.

i think if you can overcome your speed problem on rotating the blank 
like you have said you should be on the way to getting some where close. 
let the spindle do as it likes (just like in rigid tapping) make the 
blank follow the spindle nice and close in motion. (we do this with the 
Z axes in rigid tapping no?)
i know some servo drives have the ability to take an exsternal encoder 
or other source and follow it with out the need of anything else so 
maybe something to look at too?

if you can keep them locked in sync at all times every pass should line 
up so doing a rerun over the gear should work fine.

will be grate to see how you get on if you take this further.

good luck,
rob



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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-03-05 Thread Andy Pugh
On 5 March 2010 18:10, Kirk Wallace  wrote:

> The problems with trying to replicate hobbing with CNC rotary axes are,
> the rotary encoders would need to be very high resolution, feedback and
> command control very tight, and data throughput high enough to keep up.
> I think it has been stated before that current systems aren't up to the
> task.

This message was cast into the void some time ago. I reposted it today.
I am now well on the way to finishing my fast rotary axis. I guess I
will soon know if you are right...

-- 
atp

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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-03-05 Thread Mark Cason
On 03/05/2010 07:23 AM, Andy Pugh wrote:
> (This is one of potentially several reposts of questions that never
> made it to the list due to operator error)
>
> I am unsatisfied with the results of my attempts at gear-milling. I
> think this stems partly from me not knowing which of the three cutters
> I have is for what tooth count, or what the addendum and dedendum is
> meant to be for each cutter.
> I have decided that as a set of milling cutters comprises about 6
> cutters at £10-£20 each, a hobbing cutter which will make any size of
> gear seems like a good plan.
>
> Hobbing, as you almost certainly know, involves rotating a hob and the
> work on not-quite-right-angles axes in a fixed ratio. Some parts of
> that are very easy with an EMC-controlled CNC machine  (mine is one of
> these one of these, convertulated)
> http://www.amadeal.co.uk/acatalog/CX23A-750_Multi-Purpose_Lathe_Milling_Machine.html
>   I have an encoder on the lathe spindle and it is a simple
> matter of connecting that to the rotary table in HAL to keep them
> geared together permanently at any
> arbitrary ratio. (there is even an encoder_ratio module for this sort
> of thing, but that isn't exactly right for what I want)
>
> However, the stepper-driven rotary table tops out at 5rpm. I can swap
> the motor for a servo, and that gets me 17rpm. The lathe and milling
> spindles don't really like doing less than 200rpm. I want to cut
> 12-tooth pinions, and that really isn't enough overhead for the rotary
> axis to catch up and synch.
> It is also a major change to the control box wiring and the software
> setup to swap to servo motor. However here are advantages, and I have all the
> parts.
> Holding the rotary axis at the correct angle to a hob held in the
> milling head is difficult. (though obviously doable)
> clamping it to the table at an angle to the lathe spindle is easy, but
> then I can only make gears of one diameter.
> It would be nice to be able to rotate the milling head. There is
> presently no facilty to do that, but there is a joint between two
> castings where the facility could be added.
>
> I am thinking of making a faster rotary axis using an ER32 collet
> holder I have on a 3/4" ground shaft and some taper roller bearings. I
> would drive that with a spare stepper I have, at about 10:1 ratio. (or
> one of the little servos)
> I can't believe that there are very large rotating forces on a gear
> during hobbing, I think it is probably largely balanced.
>
> If I do make this rotary axis, then I can either mount it at an angle
> to the milling spindle, or at an angle to the lathe spindle. In the
> latter case I would need a vertical slide, but I do have a spare
> compound slide that the CNC machine no longer uses. In either case I
> would need a compound feed on the two translational axes, or the
> offset angle will mean that the gear moves down the axis of the hob,
> giving a very slight second-order helix angle (if I am visualising it
> right)
> Modifying the milling head to tilt avoids this problem.
>
> The lathe spindle already has an encoder, the milling spindle is still 
> waiting.
>
> Ideally I would make a hobbing head to clamp to the lathe saddle to
> cut gears held in the lathe spindle, with a nice powerful servo motor
> and encoder just like a real gear hobbing machine. But if I had a
> suitable servo motor like that it would already be my lathe headstock
> motor.
>
> So, rambling over, does anyone have any ideas for ways of arranging
> the shafts and slides that I have not thought of yet? (one idea has
> just occurred to me, I could mount a flexible coupling in the milling
> or lathes spindle. mount a secondary pair of bearings elsewhere, and
> put the hob on that to get the required angle).
> I think my favourite so far is a combination of new, faster rotary
> spindle holding the gear mounted on a  vertical slide on the lathe
> saddle, with the hob in the lathe spindle.
>
> --
> atp
>
>
   Here is a stepper based 4th axis that may work the way you're describing:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100160

   It is 4 to 1 ratio, and set up for microstepping.  It should be able 
to keep up with your spindle.  I'm assuming that yow want to use a 
spiral hob?.  If so, put some shims under the front of the axis, to 
match the helix angle of the hob.

   The better way, would be to create a straight hob, and just index the 
axis for each tooth.  The idea is the same, it's just slower.

-- 
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Re: [Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-03-05 Thread Kirk Wallace
On Fri, 2010-03-05 at 13:23 +, Andy Pugh wrote:
... snip
> I am unsatisfied with the results of my attempts at gear-milling. I
> think this stems partly from me not knowing which of the three cutters
> I have is for what tooth count, or what the addendum and dedendum is
> meant to be for each cutter.
> I have decided that as a set of milling cutters comprises about 6
> cutters at £10-£20 each, a hobbing cutter which will make any size of
> gear seems like a good plan.

I haven't cut any gears yet, but my plan is to use the rack form gear
cutter to cut all gear sizes for a particular pitch.
https://www.travers.com/Default.asp 
(Click on Keyword Search box, click Guest, search for "involute", their
search and descriptions are pretty weak)
or http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm (search "involute", or "invoute
14-1/2" for 14 1/2 degree pressure angle)
(Other links welcomed, Number 1 cutters seem to be the rack form)

The hobbing motion can be replicated, except you only cut one section of
tooth width, one tooth at a time (actually the slot between two teeth).
The gear blank is mounted to a rotary axis. The gear cutter is mounted
in the spindle. The coordinated motion of the rotary and cross feed will
mimic the motion of a rack tooth engaging the gear as it rotates for the
entry an exit of one tooth slot. The process would need to be repeated
to cut the width of the gear, then repeated for each slot.

The problems with trying to replicate hobbing with CNC rotary axes are,
the rotary encoders would need to be very high resolution, feedback and
command control very tight, and data throughput high enough to keep up.
I think it has been stated before that current systems aren't up to the
task. I think it would be great to have someone try, but I think the
odds are against any success.
-- 
Kirk Wallace
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/
http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/index.html
California, USA


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[Emc-users] Hobbing

2010-03-05 Thread Andy Pugh
(This is one of potentially several reposts of questions that never
made it to the list due to operator error)

I am unsatisfied with the results of my attempts at gear-milling. I
think this stems partly from me not knowing which of the three cutters
I have is for what tooth count, or what the addendum and dedendum is
meant to be for each cutter.
I have decided that as a set of milling cutters comprises about 6
cutters at £10-£20 each, a hobbing cutter which will make any size of
gear seems like a good plan.

Hobbing, as you almost certainly know, involves rotating a hob and the
work on not-quite-right-angles axes in a fixed ratio. Some parts of
that are very easy with an EMC-controlled CNC machine  (mine is one of
these one of these, convertulated)
http://www.amadeal.co.uk/acatalog/CX23A-750_Multi-Purpose_Lathe_Milling_Machine.html
 I have an encoder on the lathe spindle and it is a simple
matter of connecting that to the rotary table in HAL to keep them
geared together permanently at any
arbitrary ratio. (there is even an encoder_ratio module for this sort
of thing, but that isn't exactly right for what I want)

However, the stepper-driven rotary table tops out at 5rpm. I can swap
the motor for a servo, and that gets me 17rpm. The lathe and milling
spindles don't really like doing less than 200rpm. I want to cut
12-tooth pinions, and that really isn't enough overhead for the rotary
axis to catch up and synch.
It is also a major change to the control box wiring and the software
setup to swap to servo motor. However here are advantages, and I have all the
parts.
Holding the rotary axis at the correct angle to a hob held in the
milling head is difficult. (though obviously doable)
clamping it to the table at an angle to the lathe spindle is easy, but
then I can only make gears of one diameter.
It would be nice to be able to rotate the milling head. There is
presently no facilty to do that, but there is a joint between two
castings where the facility could be added.

I am thinking of making a faster rotary axis using an ER32 collet
holder I have on a 3/4" ground shaft and some taper roller bearings. I
would drive that with a spare stepper I have, at about 10:1 ratio. (or
one of the little servos)
I can't believe that there are very large rotating forces on a gear
during hobbing, I think it is probably largely balanced.

If I do make this rotary axis, then I can either mount it at an angle
to the milling spindle, or at an angle to the lathe spindle. In the
latter case I would need a vertical slide, but I do have a spare
compound slide that the CNC machine no longer uses. In either case I
would need a compound feed on the two translational axes, or the
offset angle will mean that the gear moves down the axis of the hob,
giving a very slight second-order helix angle (if I am visualising it
right)
Modifying the milling head to tilt avoids this problem.

The lathe spindle already has an encoder, the milling spindle is still waiting.

Ideally I would make a hobbing head to clamp to the lathe saddle to
cut gears held in the lathe spindle, with a nice powerful servo motor
and encoder just like a real gear hobbing machine. But if I had a
suitable servo motor like that it would already be my lathe headstock
motor.

So, rambling over, does anyone have any ideas for ways of arranging
the shafts and slides that I have not thought of yet? (one idea has
just occurred to me, I could mount a flexible coupling in the milling
or lathes spindle. mount a secondary pair of bearings elsewhere, and
put the hob on that to get the required angle).
I think my favourite so far is a combination of new, faster rotary
spindle holding the gear mounted on a  vertical slide on the lathe
saddle, with the hob in the lathe spindle.

--
atp

-- 
atp

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