Re: [Emc-users] Progress!

[gene heskett]

On 2/17/23 11:43, dave engvall wrote:

HI all,
I've been occupied in building a new Y axis to go on top the x of my 
contourmaster. Nothing like jousting with windmills.
1" rails on top of a cold drawn/hot roll frame.  5/8" ballscrew. With 
the spindle as reference I get about a half thou deflection leaning on 
the axis in the y direction and about a thou in the X direction. We'll 
see how this works in practice.

Aux readout from a set of chinese glass scales to add interest. ;-)

Now with that done I need to hook up the stepper=servos.
My brain seems to have gone on  holiday.
Controller is 5i25/7i76
http://servo.xlichuan.com/Private/ProductFiles/470763d1b2947213fdc2.pdf

I know the board is well protected but I'm not one to just hook things 
up and hope the magic

smoke is well contained. ;-)

Thanks

Dave

That board combo works great here, Dave, two copies of it running 
nicely. Decently self protected too.





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Cheers, Gene Heskett.
--
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 



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[Emc-users] Progress!

[dave engvall]

HI all,
I've been occupied in building a new Y axis to go on top the x of my 
contourmaster. Nothing like jousting with windmills.
1" rails on top of a cold drawn/hot roll frame.  5/8" ballscrew. With 
the spindle as reference I get about a half thou deflection leaning on 
the axis in the y direction and about a thou in the X direction. We'll 
see how this works in practice.

Aux readout from a set of chinese glass scales to add interest. ;-)

Now with that done I need to hook up the stepper=servos.
My brain seems to have gone on  holiday.
Controller is 5i25/7i76
http://servo.xlichuan.com/Private/ProductFiles/470763d1b2947213fdc2.pdf

I know the board is well protected but I'm not one to just hook things 
up and hope the magic

smoke is well contained. ;-)

Thanks

Dave





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Re: [Emc-users] Progress on 6040

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 19 April 2019 01:41:07 Roland Jollivet wrote:

> Hi Gene
>
> I don't know how you're engaging the spanner on the spindle shaft for
> your ATC, but you could use one of these;
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Durable-Car-Locking-System-2-Wire-Central-Doo
>r-Lock-Solenoid-Actuator-Motor-12V/131945015051?epid=511506243=ite
>m1eb889270b:g:Ly0AAOSw4shX4NhW
>
> Easier than air...

I've not crossed that bridge yet. Cute solution to that problem however.  
Does it have a duty cycle limit? 'twould be nice if it moved according 
to the polarity of the applied 12 volts, but we should be so lucky. Or 
maybe it does since it can both lock and unlock. I've already had one 
fail in my 2011 ford pickup.  I've still got that mechanism in a box 
under the seat so I'll look at it to see how it toggles one way or the 
other. Might be just what Dr. Gene ordered. :)

> With linkages, you could mount it anywhere on the spindle head.

Yup, I've already thought about how to make the wrench and its holder, 
but not how to actuate it. Could be perfect. This chuck has a slinger 
disk, and I've considered removing it and machining matching flats for 
balance so a couple ATS-667's at 45 degrees would give me a tach. 
There's an unused encoder in this 7i76D, and I sure like to know the 
real speed. Right now I'm seeing the command but this VFD seems to take 
that only as a general suggestion unless I've finally found the torque 
boost settings. So far I've extended its low speed range from just 
barely running at 4k requested, to running well at 1500 commanded, w/o 
serious overcurrents. So I'm "getting there".

Thanks Roland & take care.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 



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[Emc-users] Progress on 6040

[Roland Jollivet]

Hi Gene

I don't know how you're engaging the spanner on the spindle shaft for your
ATC, but you could use one of these;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Durable-Car-Locking-System-2-Wire-Central-Door-Lock-Solenoid-Actuator-Motor-12V/131945015051?epid=511506243=item1eb889270b:g:Ly0AAOSw4shX4NhW

Easier than air...
With linkages, you could mount it anywhere on the spindle head.

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Re: [Emc-users] Progress on 6040

[John Dammeyer]

Hi Gene,
> > One of the first things I did to it was add a Shumatech DRO-350 which
> > included adding a caliper to the quill.
> 
> Once cnc is running it, you'll never note the quill caliper needs a
> battery. My quill has been locked tight on the G0704 for years. Its just
> automatic to look at the on-screen dro.

I haven't ever had to change batteries in the caliper scales.  That's because I 
made little disks with capacitors and these are wired to the power supply and 
sit where the batteries were.  So the scales run from the Shumatech DRO.  I 
also have a spare DRO-350 and two of the newer 550s.  One built and one still a 
kit.  But the first one and the scales have been running for so long.  It's 
really the DROs that have lowered the urgency of the CNC for the mill.  Working 
from a drawing, which needs to be done regardless of whether G-Code is the 
ultimate product, I find other than for arcs the DRO gives me 0.0005" accuracy 
for drilling holes.

The Shumatech can do bolt circles or I use a rotary table for repeatability if 
the part is round.  These photos show that.
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/XAxisBearingClamp.jpg
Now this could have been done on the mill with a  boring bar.  Even the outside 
could have been brought to the right diameter.  And CNC is a no brainer there.  
But with the ELS setting the depth I had the time to grab the camera and shoot 
it while it was boring without worrying about bottoming out and breaking 
something.
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/XaxisBoringClearanceHole.jpg
The holes that match the bearing clamp drilled on the rotary table were done 
with the Shumatech.  Tedious but workable.
 
> Nice shadow, right where you need it, not!
> 
> I light from the side with a gooseneck, as I've found the head-on leds in
> most colonoscopy cameras do nothing but add detail hiding glare to the
> image, when I can get the ^%#& camera to work at all.  My camera  mounts
> on a dovetail for remove and reinstall repeatability, on the bottom of a
> spindle lock I made from 1/2" plate.
I will add an LED lamp back into the housing of the original lamp.  Project 
#42.  I use a Nikon D800 for photos and Video.

> You'll be able to lessen the belt reductions I see, by large amounts once
> the ball screws are moving it.

Probably.   The X/Y motors are KL34-180-90 with 3200 RPM max.  With 5 TPI 
screws that's 0.2" per rev and with 3:1 for the X and 4:1 for the Y I'd 
theoretically see 0.2"/3  (0.06667"/rev) for the X can go 213 ipm.  The Y has 
4:1 (0.05"/rev) or a max of 160 ipm.  But it doesn't have the same travel as 
the X so end to end time will be roughly the same.  And it has to move not only 
the X axis assembly but also the rotary assembly since this mill could have a 
horizontal mill attachment.

I either case, unlikely I'd be milling anything at those speeds.

> > There was room inside for an additional 24VAC relay that is placed in
> > series with the existing ESTOP circuit.  It's this relay that is
> > managed by the PC ESTOP control simulating a mechanical activation of
> > the ESTOP button.
> 
> I've not addressed that yet. Do have a big red & yellow switch though.
> Haven't found my round tuit since I was living in Rapid City in
> the '60's.

Here's the drawing of the original G3616 electrics along with the extra ESTOP 
relay added and use of the second set of NC contacts.  Since these relays are 
all 24VAC it was easier to bring the second contact to the PC to signal ESTOP 
and use the ENABLE out from the PC to control the ESTOP relay.   Any additional 
big red buttons can also be DPST (NC) and put in circuit with the RD/GN/BK/WH 
wires.
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/G3616_CNC_Wiring.pdf


As long as I have a jumper or switch across the RD/BK it runs like it did from 
the factory.

> > http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/OutletBox-3D-1g.jpg
> 
> Neat John. What SSR's contain that display?

It's just a fancy circuit breaker that shows voltage and current.  

http://tiny.cc/ndgw4y


> 
> I have a din-rail strip screwed to the rear edge of the 2x4x3/4 shelf
> hanging off the ceiling to hold the electrics. Currently has a relay for
> the spindle coolant pump mounted, and will have a 2nd relay to control a
> 2nd power strip that everything for the mill is powered by including a
> 5000 lumen 4 foot lamp over the top of the gantry, on the bottom of the
> shelf.   So the whole thing will light up when the machine is enabled.
> Out of SSR's so a 12volt coil 4pdt relay I do have will have to do.

My mill came with coolant but I've yet to use it.  I will also mount one of 
those misters.   I'll probably put a relay in series with the coolant switch 
and for CNC operations leave the pump switch ON.   However an ESTOP requires 
the coolant switch be mechanically set back to off before power is restored 
(see drawing posted above).  So I don't know yet what I'll do with all of that.

> > The STMBL drive is in the top RH corner.  That's for the 4th Axis
> > Harmonic Drive which 

Re: [Emc-users] Progress on 6040

[Gene Heskett]

On Saturday 06 April 2019 13:47:59 Gene Heskett wrote:

> Greetings all;
>
> Just came in from wireing up and configuring the x home, the last of
> the 4 home circuits.

[...]

> And since the A/B/C rotary axis is not mounted and plugged in until
> actually needed, how can I exclude it from all but a manual axis mouse
> button push to home it, _and_ so that its not being homed is ignored
> by LCNC?

Ping and added a question mark

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 



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Re: [Emc-users] Progress on 6040

[Gene Heskett]

On Sunday 07 April 2019 01:41:38 John Dammeyer wrote:

> Hi Gene,
> You're way ahead of me on wiring up limit switches.  I'm also busy
> adding CNC to my mill which is the same as the now discontinued
> Grizzly G3616.
>
>  Here it is when it first arrived in 2007 and some of my pictures.
> http://www.autoartisans.com/milton.htm
>
> One of the first things I did to it was add a Shumatech DRO-350 which
> included adding a caliper to the quill.

Once cnc is running it, you'll never note the quill caliper needs a 
battery. My quill has been locked tight on the G0704 for years. Its just 
automatic to look at the on-screen dro.

> So I made a pattern and cast 
> quill clamp. http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/QuillClamp.jpg
> The intention was to fasten a lot more stuff to it but so far it's
> only the scale.  There's a photo later of it mounted to the switch
> box.

> Next, tired of hand cranking the knee with a poor fitting cast iron
> crank handle I poured some brackets, added angular contact bearings
> and spacers to remove the right angle bevel gear backlash and started
> with a 500oz-in motor and 3:1 reduction.  Lousy speed.  Just not quite
> enough torque with both rotary table and vise on the table.  So up to
> a 950 oz-in motor, a Gecko driver and a linear supply of 60V.  Now
> it's adequate. http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/Z-AxisPowerSupply.jpg
> And the drive. I used my ELS as the stepping controller to move the
> knee up and down.   This was in 2011.
> http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/KneeDrive.jpg
>
> With the failure of the supplied light which I haven't yet rebuilt I
> whipped up a 3D printed collar and wired up some LEDs to a small LED
> controller and power supply
> http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/LampStuff2.jpg
> And at first it looked pretty good.
> http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/LEDLightTrial1.jpg
> But I didn't take into account the size of the drill chuck or tooling.
> http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/Shadow1.jpg
> So additional lighting is still going to be needed.  But it was an
> interesting try.  That was in 2016.

Nice shadow, right where you need it, not!

I light from the side with a gooseneck, as I've found the head-on leds in 
most colonoscopy cameras do nothing but add detail hiding glare to the 
image, when I can get the ^%#& camera to work at all.  My camera  mounts 
on a dovetail for remove and reinstall repeatability, on the bottom of a 
spindle lock I made from 1/2" plate.

> The Y Axis was next.  Again some castings and this time the HP-UHU
> Servo driver and a 100V Servo motor that tucks in nicely under the
> knee out of the way.  Angular contact bearings keep the lead screw
> from moving.  A ball screw conversion will be done after the CNC
> conversion is complete.
> http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/YAxisMachining-8s.jpg

You'll be able to lessen the belt reductions I see, by large amounts once 
the ball screws are moving it. 

> The X axis was the most work.  I didn't have a large enough crucible
> to cast it one piece so I did the main mount in 2.  The motor mount is
> the third http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/XAxisMounted1.jpg
>
Neat, but I've no casting stuff except for bullets. I cut that stuff from 
1/2" alu panel.

> Now that I can move all three axis the electrical is the next part. 
> The mill has two electrical boxes.  One with the transformers and
> relays and a master switch.
> http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/G3616-ElectricalPanel1.jpg
>
>  The second box holds the ESTOP (DPST, NC contacts, one not used).
> http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/DRO_SwitchBox.jpg
> There was room inside for an additional 24VAC relay that is placed in
> series with the existing ESTOP circuit.  It's this relay that is
> managed by the PC ESTOP control simulating a mechanical activation of
> the ESTOP button.

I've not addressed that yet. Do have a big red & yellow switch though. 
Haven't found my round tuit since I was living in Rapid City in 
the '60's.

> I decided to run the entire system from 220VAC so I could use the
> existing contactor to shut off power.

I'm all wall powered except for the Sheldon.

> But I wanted a circuit breaker 
> for the electronics power and one for the CNC motors.  So I 3D printed
> a box and mounted the units in that.
> http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/OutletBox-3D-1b.jpg
> Hard to get a good photo because it's on the back of the mill really
> close to the wall.  The two 15A, 220VAC outlets are for the two
> separate circuits.
> http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/OutletBox-3D-1g.jpg

Neat John. What SSR's contain that display?

I have a din-rail strip screwed to the rear edge of the 2x4x3/4 shelf 
hanging off the ceiling to hold the electrics. Currently has a relay for 
the spindle coolant pump mounted, and will have a 2nd relay to control a 
2nd power strip that everything for the mill is powered by including a 
5000 lumen 4 foot lamp over the top of the gantry, on the bottom of the 
shelf.   So the whole thing will light up when the machine is 

Re: [Emc-users] Progress on 6040

[John Dammeyer]

Hi Gene,
You're way ahead of me on wiring up limit switches.  I'm also busy adding CNC 
to my mill which is the same as the now discontinued Grizzly G3616. 

 Here it is when it first arrived in 2007 and some of my pictures.
http://www.autoartisans.com/milton.htm

One of the first things I did to it was add a Shumatech DRO-350 which included 
adding a caliper to the quill.  So I made a pattern and cast quill clamp.  
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/QuillClamp.jpg 
The intention was to fasten a lot more stuff to it but so far it's only the 
scale.  There's a photo later of it mounted to the switch box.

Next, tired of hand cranking the knee with a poor fitting cast iron crank 
handle I poured some brackets, added angular contact bearings and spacers to 
remove the right angle bevel gear backlash and started with a 500oz-in motor 
and 3:1 reduction.  Lousy speed.  Just not quite enough torque with both rotary 
table and vise on the table.  So up to a 950 oz-in motor, a Gecko driver and a 
linear supply of 60V.  Now it's adequate.
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/Z-AxisPowerSupply.jpg
And the drive. I used my ELS as the stepping controller to move the knee up and 
down.   This was in 2011. 
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/KneeDrive.jpg

With the failure of the supplied light which I haven't yet rebuilt I whipped up 
a 3D printed collar and wired up some LEDs to a small LED controller and power 
supply  
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/LampStuff2.jpg 
And at first it looked pretty good.
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/LEDLightTrial1.jpg 
But I didn't take into account the size of the drill chuck or tooling.
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/Shadow1.jpg 
So additional lighting is still going to be needed.  But it was an interesting 
try.  That was in 2016.

The Y Axis was next.  Again some castings and this time the HP-UHU Servo driver 
and a 100V Servo motor that tucks in nicely under the knee out of the way.  
Angular contact bearings keep the lead screw from moving.  A ball screw 
conversion will be done after the CNC conversion is complete.
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/YAxisMachining-8s.jpg

The X axis was the most work.  I didn't have a large enough crucible to cast it 
one piece so I did the main mount in 2.  The motor mount is the third
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/XAxisMounted1.jpg

Now that I can move all three axis the electrical is the next part.  The mill 
has two electrical boxes.  One with the transformers and relays and a master 
switch. 
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/G3616-ElectricalPanel1.jpg

 The second box holds the ESTOP (DPST, NC contacts, one not used).
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/DRO_SwitchBox.jpg
There was room inside for an additional 24VAC relay that is placed in series 
with the existing ESTOP circuit.  It's this relay that is managed by the PC 
ESTOP control simulating a mechanical activation of the ESTOP button.

I decided to run the entire system from 220VAC so I could use the existing 
contactor to shut off power.  But I wanted a circuit breaker for the 
electronics power and one for the CNC motors.  So I 3D printed a box and 
mounted the units in that.  
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/OutletBox-3D-1b.jpg
Hard to get a good photo because it's on the back of the mill really close to 
the wall.  The two 15A, 220VAC outlets are for the two separate circuits.
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/OutletBox-3D-1g.jpg

And finally here's roughly what the BoB and control side looks like.  Works off 
two parallel ports on the PC.  
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/EverythingMounted.jpg

The STMBL drive is in the top RH corner.  That's for the 4th Axis Harmonic 
Drive which was an interesting diversion and has its own set of photos.

Still lots to do.  More pictures as I make some progress.

John







 
> Get that relay hooked up, the vfd swapped and tuned, the table cleaned up
> and I'll take some pix for John Dammeyer. Sorta fugly, but I think its
> working. :)
> 
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> --



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[Emc-users] Progress on 6040

[Gene Heskett]

Greetings all;

Just came in from wireing up and configuring the x home, the last of the 
4 home circuits.

One more relay to hook up, to turn off all machine power until motion is 
enabled. And I'll need to automatically unhome everything when its 
disabled since these 2m542's power up at the zeroeth microstep. I'm 
planning on using an edge module to get that signal.

And since I've been told the home switches are sampled at the 
servo-thread rate, I see no technical advantage to an additional 1 ms 
debounce, so all switches go direct to joint.n.home-sw-in.

And since the A/B/C rotary axis is not mounted and plugged in until 
actually needed, how can I exclude it from all but a manual axis mouse 
button push to home it, _and_ so that its not being homed is ignored by 
LCNC.

I just checked the spindle direction before I came in, and today its 
running cw again. Its been running ccw for a week, without touching a 
thing.

Stupid damned Chinese vfd they refuse to furnish english docs for. 
Anybody buying one of these 60x0's from anybody, negotiate $400 off & 
let them keep the whole driver box, its 40+ lbs of crap. Only a 24 volt 
stepper that run at 14 volts with the 4th axis plugged in, the drivers 
are tb6560's, run w/in their limits might be ok but 2m542's on a 28 volt 
supply can move it faster.  Get the cables if you can though, they're 
marked. Not all wired alike, so that will need sorted. You'll also need 
bigger cable chain by the time you get switch wireing and all that 
contained, plus the air hose for the mister.  I see theres now a mister 
with 2 adjustable valves, which might make a lean mister w/o 16 feet 
of .029 capillary tubeing hanging on the back of the gantry for flow 
restriction. It wouldn't self prime, so the coke bottle is pressurized. 
Nozzle design obviously has a lot to do with that. Might take some 
experimenting with misters from various sources.  With and w/o pressure 
in the fluid bottle.  If someone finds that magic combo, plz share, this 
one slobbers a bit at useable pressures. 

A new vfd similar to what I used on the Sheldon should be here by the end 
of next week. Its working well on the Sheldon including a reverse quick 
quick enough to make the drive belts yelp, while spinning a 50 yo 1 HP 3 
phase Century brand we burnt off an air compressor and I put fresh 
bearings in. $50 for a pair of them, $28 for fresh bearings all around.  
Can't beat that with a stick. Could use an inch smaller pulley on the 
motor shaft but its also doing well at 8 or 9 HZ if programmed to not 
burn the motor up at low speeds.

Get that relay hooked up, the vfd swapped and tuned, the table cleaned up 
and I'll take some pix for John Dammeyer. Sorta fugly, but I think its 
working. :)

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 



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Re: [Emc-users] Progress, if I spell it right

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 21 July 2017 11:13:34 dave wrote:

> On 07/21/2017 07:31 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > On Friday 21 July 2017 10:16:27 dave wrote:
> >
> > Except Gene wrote:
> >>> But another problem I have mentioned previously ate my lunch,
> >>> about 2 hours and some material yesterday while making the first 8
> >>> brass screws for the rear of the spindle spider. Axis couples the
> >>> 4 motion keys to the two teeny little tally eyeballs at the top of
> >>> the axis left control panel. So you can set the speed to creep,
> >>> run it to the reference position, and do a touch off which is
> >>> automatically applied to the last axis moved.
> >>>
> >>> But HAL doesn't!!! One must get close enough to the monitor to
> >>> see which axis has the focus, and fix it if its wrong before doing
> >>> the touch off.
> >>>
> >>> So, after I had drilled and tapped the holes in the alu ring, I am
> >>> making the brass bolts to fit those tapped holes. We badly need a
> >>> coupling mechanism between the motion.axis-N-jog-enable, and those
> >>> buttons tallying that in the axis display.
> >>>
> >>> Driving the machine with my dials doesn't tell axis I just moved
> >>> Z, which is required with the tool change since 3 tools are
> >>> involved. So after very carefully getting X set so the threads I
> >>> made fit rather snuggly, at about bolt 5 I didn't notice the teeny
> >>> dot was in the wrong circle, and did a z touch off to my very
> >>> carefully set X offset.
> >>>
> >>> At the very least, the touch-off box needs one more button to
> >>> 'undo' the last touch-off, so we can undo it, then select the
> >>> right little axis button, then touch-off the axis we intended to.
> >>> That would at least be a recovery path if the wrong axis was
> >>> touched off. As it is, the recovery to a usable state is putting
> >>> it back a bit bigger, manually cutting off the bad thread,
> >>> resetting the stickout, and an hour re-running the code while
> >>> touching X off about .05mm smaller at a time until it fits again.
> >>>
> >>> Thats frustrating to say it in mild terms. Very frustrating.  Fix
> >>> it, please. Its a much larger problem IMO than the MDI editors key
> >>> missfires. That can be tolerated, a bigger font for the MDI
> >>> commandline would help as it can place the cursor with care and a
> >>> stable mouse, but the wrong axis touch-off is 1000x the time and
> >>> material waster.
> >>>
> >>> Thanks all.
> >>>
> >>> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> >>
> >> Rather than touch off to adjust; change the offset, very
> >> quantitative and fast.
> >>
> >> Dave
> >
> > Where Dave?
> >
> > Thank you.
> >
> > Cheers, Gene Heskett
>
> In TK it is Scripts -> set coordinates ... I just assumed (???) that
> axis would have a similar feature.

Actually gcode does: again the docs are quite lacking, too concise. Shows 
G92 axises, so I presume I could combine this into one program and put 
a: G92 z0.000 at the top of the file after setting the offset to put the 
first tool at the face of the stickout, then before turning the thread, 
G92 z-2.0374 (mm's) in just after a tool change. Ditto for the cutoff 
tool.

I'm finding either the head isn't aligned, or I need to rotate the coords 
around the non-existent y axis by half a degree to compensate for the 
taper the flexability of the brass stickout when its been reduced to a 
hair less than 8mm's. I am finding the end of the screw is a couple thou 
bigger than at the thread end near the hex cap. I can do that with a 
g33.1, but g76 can't other than with the L2 and an E length=length of 
thread - one thread pitch.  But thats way more comp than needed for 
this. For a 21mm long thread, my calipers show about a 3 thou diff.

The next 4 screws should have around 25 to 30 mm's of thread, depending 
on the size of the pipe I can src. But the weather is so black 
headlights on is an excellent idea. Noisy too, and some wet.

Different question now. I've been studying up on the tool table, and what 
I am seeing seems to indicate that at least for common turning tools, a 
jig for setting the cutters stickout applicable to a box of loose tool 
holders, would be handy.  What method do most of you use so that a dull 
tool can be removed from the QC holder, sharpened or rechipped, and 
returned to the tool holder with exactly the same stickout it had when 
it was last mounted and put to use. URL's to pix of what works best in 
your shop would be nice.

Thanks a bunch everybody.

> Dave
>
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Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed 

Re: [Emc-users] Progress, if I spell it right

[Sebastian Kuzminsky]

On 07/21/2017 10:28 AM, Ken Strauss wrote:

Of course it is the operator's responsibility to do the right thing and I
hate software that makes it difficult/impossible to make my own decisions.
That said, an undo button would be really nice!


An undo stack for touch-off would be a good addition to our GUIs.


--
Sebastian Kuzminsky

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Re: [Emc-users] Progress, if I spell it right

[Ken Strauss]

> -Original Message-
> From: John Kasunich [mailto:jmkasun...@fastmail.fm]
> Sent: Friday, July 21, 2017 12:00 PM
> To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Progress, if I spell it right
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 21, 2017, at 08:56 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > But another problem I have mentioned previously ate my lunch, about 2
> > hours and some material yesterday while making the first 8 brass
> > screws for the rear of the spindle spider. Axis couples the 4 motion
> > keys to the two teeny little tally eyeballs at the top of the axis
> > left control panel. So you can set the speed to creep, run it to the
> > reference position, and do a touch off which is automatically applied
> > to the last axis moved.
> >
> > But HAL doesn't!!! One must get close enough to the monitor to see
> > which axis has the focus, and fix it if its wrong before doing the
> > touch off.
> >
>
> I have accidentally touched off the wrong axis before, and I agree that it
is very
> frustrating.  But I don't blame the software.  Sure, it might be
_convenient_ for
> the touch-off dialog to default to whatever axis was moved last.  But that
is
> only a convenience.  For example, suppose I'm trying to get a lathe tool
> touched off.  I might use jogging or MDI to take a light cut, then jog (or
MDI)
> the Z axis to get the tool clear _without_ moving X.  Then I can get out
the
> micrometer, measure the diameter I just cut, and touch off X accordingly.
>
> Note that I moved Z last but want to touch off X
>
> After accidentally touching off the wrong axis once or twice I learned
that it is
> MY JOB to make sure I'm touching off the right axis.  The software can't
read
> my mind.  Sure, I _often_ want to touch off the last axis I moved, but not
> _always_
>
> --
>   John Kasunich
>   jmkasun...@fastmail.fm

Of course it is the operator's responsibility to do the right thing and I
hate software that makes it difficult/impossible to make my own decisions.
That said, an undo button would be really nice!



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Re: [Emc-users] Progress, if I spell it right

[John Kasunich]

On Fri, Jul 21, 2017, at 08:56 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> But another problem I have mentioned previously ate my lunch, about 2 
> hours and some material yesterday while making the first 8 brass screws 
> for the rear of the spindle spider. Axis couples the 4 motion keys to 
> the two teeny little tally eyeballs at the top of the axis left control 
> panel. So you can set the speed to creep, run it to the reference 
> position, and do a touch off which is automatically applied to the last 
> axis moved.
> 
> But HAL doesn't!!! One must get close enough to the monitor to see 
> which axis has the focus, and fix it if its wrong before doing the touch 
> off.
> 

I have accidentally touched off the wrong axis before, and I agree that
it is very frustrating.  But I don't blame the software.  Sure, it might be
_convenient_ for the touch-off dialog to default to whatever axis was
moved last.  But that is only a convenience.  For example, suppose I'm
trying to get a lathe tool touched off.  I might use jogging or MDI to
take a light cut, then jog (or MDI) the Z axis to get the tool clear 
_without_ moving X.  Then I can get out the micrometer, measure the
diameter I just cut, and touch off X accordingly.

Note that I moved Z last but want to touch off X

After accidentally touching off the wrong axis once or twice I learned 
that it is MY JOB to make sure I'm touching off the right axis.  The
software can't read my mind.  Sure, I _often_ want to touch off the
last axis I moved, but not _always_

-- 
  John Kasunich
  jmkasun...@fastmail.fm

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Re: [Emc-users] Progress, if I spell it right

[dave]

On 07/21/2017 07:31 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:

On Friday 21 July 2017 10:16:27 dave wrote:
Except Gene wrote:

But another problem I have mentioned previously ate my lunch, about
2 hours and some material yesterday while making the first 8 brass
screws for the rear of the spindle spider. Axis couples the 4 motion
keys to the two teeny little tally eyeballs at the top of the axis
left control panel. So you can set the speed to creep, run it to the
reference position, and do a touch off which is automatically
applied to the last axis moved.

But HAL doesn't!!! One must get close enough to the monitor to
see which axis has the focus, and fix it if its wrong before doing
the touch off.

So, after I had drilled and tapped the holes in the alu ring, I am
making the brass bolts to fit those tapped holes. We badly need a
coupling mechanism between the motion.axis-N-jog-enable, and those
buttons tallying that in the axis display.

Driving the machine with my dials doesn't tell axis I just moved Z,
which is required with the tool change since 3 tools are involved.
So after very carefully getting X set so the threads I made fit
rather snuggly, at about bolt 5 I didn't notice the teeny dot was in
the wrong circle, and did a z touch off to my very carefully set X
offset.

At the very least, the touch-off box needs one more button to 'undo'
the last touch-off, so we can undo it, then select the right little
axis button, then touch-off the axis we intended to. That would at
least be a recovery path if the wrong axis was touched off. As it
is, the recovery to a usable state is putting it back a bit bigger,
manually cutting off the bad thread, resetting the stickout, and an
hour re-running the code while touching X off about .05mm smaller at
a time until it fits again.

Thats frustrating to say it in mild terms. Very frustrating.  Fix
it, please. Its a much larger problem IMO than the MDI editors key
missfires. That can be tolerated, a bigger font for the MDI
commandline would help as it can place the cursor with care and a
stable mouse, but the wrong axis touch-off is 1000x the time and
material waster.

Thanks all.

Cheers, Gene Heskett

Rather than touch off to adjust; change the offset, very quantitative
and fast.

Dave


Where Dave?

Thank you.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
In TK it is Scripts -> set coordinates ... I just assumed (???) that 
axis would have a similar feature.


Dave

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Re: [Emc-users] Progress, if I spell it right

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 21 July 2017 10:16:27 dave wrote:
Except Gene wrote:
> > But another problem I have mentioned previously ate my lunch, about
> > 2 hours and some material yesterday while making the first 8 brass
> > screws for the rear of the spindle spider. Axis couples the 4 motion
> > keys to the two teeny little tally eyeballs at the top of the axis
> > left control panel. So you can set the speed to creep, run it to the
> > reference position, and do a touch off which is automatically
> > applied to the last axis moved.
> >
> > But HAL doesn't!!! One must get close enough to the monitor to
> > see which axis has the focus, and fix it if its wrong before doing
> > the touch off.
> >
> > So, after I had drilled and tapped the holes in the alu ring, I am
> > making the brass bolts to fit those tapped holes. We badly need a
> > coupling mechanism between the motion.axis-N-jog-enable, and those
> > buttons tallying that in the axis display.
> >
> > Driving the machine with my dials doesn't tell axis I just moved Z,
> > which is required with the tool change since 3 tools are involved.
> > So after very carefully getting X set so the threads I made fit
> > rather snuggly, at about bolt 5 I didn't notice the teeny dot was in
> > the wrong circle, and did a z touch off to my very carefully set X
> > offset.
> >
> > At the very least, the touch-off box needs one more button to 'undo'
> > the last touch-off, so we can undo it, then select the right little
> > axis button, then touch-off the axis we intended to. That would at
> > least be a recovery path if the wrong axis was touched off. As it
> > is, the recovery to a usable state is putting it back a bit bigger,
> > manually cutting off the bad thread, resetting the stickout, and an
> > hour re-running the code while touching X off about .05mm smaller at
> > a time until it fits again.
> >
> > Thats frustrating to say it in mild terms. Very frustrating.  Fix
> > it, please. Its a much larger problem IMO than the MDI editors key
> > missfires. That can be tolerated, a bigger font for the MDI
> > commandline would help as it can place the cursor with care and a
> > stable mouse, but the wrong axis touch-off is 1000x the time and
> > material waster.
> >
> > Thanks all.
> >
> > Cheers, Gene Heskett
>
> Rather than touch off to adjust; change the offset, very quantitative
> and fast.
>
> Dave
>
Where Dave?

Thank you.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] Progress, if I spell it right

[dave]

On 07/21/2017 05:56 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:

On Friday 21 July 2017 02:25:50 Phillip Carter wrote:


Seems like a problem in jessie



Interesting. My take on it is that its something related to the initial
key assignments in the .ini file, where one can scramble the key vs axis
moved. This was because the config I started with was missing one of
these, so the keys were scrambled:

[TRAJ]
COORDINATES =   X Z

and
[KINS]
KINEMATICS  =   trivkins coordinates=XZ

Once those were added to the .ini file, that behaved itself.

Perhaps the MDI commandline editor (someone mentioned vi but that comes
with a huge load of baggage for a one line editor) code missed out on
those key coupling assignments?


On 20/7/17 11:20 pm, Gene Heskett wrote:

On Thursday 20 July 2017 03:41:17 Chris Albertson wrote:

Gene,

Try h, j, k, l keys if the arrow keys don't work.VI was created
LONG ago back when arrow keys were a luxury item.   The old "hjkl"
still should work for you.

FWIW Chris, those didn't work either.

But another problem I have mentioned previously ate my lunch, about 2
hours and some material yesterday while making the first 8 brass screws
for the rear of the spindle spider. Axis couples the 4 motion keys to
the two teeny little tally eyeballs at the top of the axis left control
panel. So you can set the speed to creep, run it to the reference
position, and do a touch off which is automatically applied to the last
axis moved.

But HAL doesn't!!! One must get close enough to the monitor to see
which axis has the focus, and fix it if its wrong before doing the touch
off.

So, after I had drilled and tapped the holes in the alu ring, I am making
the brass bolts to fit those tapped holes. We badly need a coupling
mechanism between the motion.axis-N-jog-enable, and those buttons
tallying that in the axis display.

Driving the machine with my dials doesn't tell axis I just moved Z, which
is required with the tool change since 3 tools are involved. So after
very carefully getting X set so the threads I made fit rather snuggly,
at about bolt 5 I didn't notice the teeny dot was in the wrong circle,
and did a z touch off to my very carefully set X offset.

At the very least, the touch-off box needs one more button to 'undo' the
last touch-off, so we can undo it, then select the right little axis
button, then touch-off the axis we intended to. That would at least be a
recovery path if the wrong axis was touched off. As it is, the recovery
to a usable state is putting it back a bit bigger, manually cutting off
the bad thread, resetting the stickout, and an hour re-running the code
while touching X off about .05mm smaller at a time until it fits again.

Thats frustrating to say it in mild terms. Very frustrating.  Fix it,
please. Its a much larger problem IMO than the MDI editors key
missfires. That can be tolerated, a bigger font for the MDI commandline
would help as it can place the cursor with care and a stable mouse, but
the wrong axis touch-off is 1000x the time and material waster.

Thanks all.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
Rather than touch off to adjust; change the offset, very quantitative 
and fast.


Dave

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Re: [Emc-users] Progress, if I spell it right

[Gene Heskett]

On Friday 21 July 2017 02:25:50 Phillip Carter wrote:

> Seems like a problem in jessie
> 
>
Interesting. My take on it is that its something related to the initial 
key assignments in the .ini file, where one can scramble the key vs axis 
moved. This was because the config I started with was missing one of 
these, so the keys were scrambled:

[TRAJ]
COORDINATES =   X Z

and
[KINS]
KINEMATICS  =   trivkins coordinates=XZ

Once those were added to the .ini file, that behaved itself.

Perhaps the MDI commandline editor (someone mentioned vi but that comes 
with a huge load of baggage for a one line editor) code missed out on 
those key coupling assignments?

> On 20/7/17 11:20 pm, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > On Thursday 20 July 2017 03:41:17 Chris Albertson wrote:
> >> Gene,
> >>
> >> Try h, j, k, l keys if the arrow keys don't work.VI was created
> >> LONG ago back when arrow keys were a luxury item.   The old "hjkl"
> >> still should work for you.

FWIW Chris, those didn't work either.

But another problem I have mentioned previously ate my lunch, about 2 
hours and some material yesterday while making the first 8 brass screws 
for the rear of the spindle spider. Axis couples the 4 motion keys to 
the two teeny little tally eyeballs at the top of the axis left control 
panel. So you can set the speed to creep, run it to the reference 
position, and do a touch off which is automatically applied to the last 
axis moved.

But HAL doesn't!!! One must get close enough to the monitor to see 
which axis has the focus, and fix it if its wrong before doing the touch 
off.

So, after I had drilled and tapped the holes in the alu ring, I am making 
the brass bolts to fit those tapped holes. We badly need a coupling 
mechanism between the motion.axis-N-jog-enable, and those buttons 
tallying that in the axis display.

Driving the machine with my dials doesn't tell axis I just moved Z, which 
is required with the tool change since 3 tools are involved. So after 
very carefully getting X set so the threads I made fit rather snuggly, 
at about bolt 5 I didn't notice the teeny dot was in the wrong circle, 
and did a z touch off to my very carefully set X offset.

At the very least, the touch-off box needs one more button to 'undo' the 
last touch-off, so we can undo it, then select the right little axis 
button, then touch-off the axis we intended to. That would at least be a 
recovery path if the wrong axis was touched off. As it is, the recovery 
to a usable state is putting it back a bit bigger, manually cutting off 
the bad thread, resetting the stickout, and an hour re-running the code 
while touching X off about .05mm smaller at a time until it fits again.

Thats frustrating to say it in mild terms. Very frustrating.  Fix it, 
please. Its a much larger problem IMO than the MDI editors key 
missfires. That can be tolerated, a bigger font for the MDI commandline 
would help as it can place the cursor with care and a stable mouse, but 
the wrong axis touch-off is 1000x the time and material waster.

Thanks all.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] Progress, if I spell it right

[Phillip Carter]

Seems like a problem in jessie 




On 20/7/17 11:20 pm, Gene Heskett wrote:

On Thursday 20 July 2017 03:41:17 Chris Albertson wrote:


Gene,

Try h, j, k, l keys if the arrow keys don't work.VI was created
LONG ago back when arrow keys were a luxury item.   The old "hjkl"
still should work for you.


I'll see if I can remember to give them a try.


It is un intuitive at first then you get into it and it is faster than
using arrow keys because you don't need to move your hand   HL is left
right JK is u down.

Its only half of them, Chris. The up-down arrows work fine. Focus is
fubared too, forcing a click in the mdi line box before a return is
recognized. One must develop two different habits to make productive use
of the armhf-jessie install.  And its a mental distraction from ones
train of thought that disturbs concentration and creativity.

The hereafter problem. :)
  
Cheers, Gene Heskett


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Re: [Emc-users] Progress, if I spell it right

[Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users]

On Thursday, July 20, 2017, 7:24:37 AM MDT, Gene Heskett  
wrote:

On Thursday 20 July 2017 03:41:17 Chris Albertson wrote:

> Gene,
>
> Try h, j, k, l keys if the arrow keys don't work.    VI was created
> LONG ago back when arrow keys were a luxury item.  The old "hjkl"
> still should work for you.
>
I'll see if I can remember to give them a try.

> It is un intuitive at first then you get into it and it is faster than
> using arrow keys because you don't need to move your hand  HL is left
> right JK is u down.

Its only half of them, Chris. The up-down arrows work fine. Focus is 
fubared too, forcing a click in the mdi line box before a return is 
recognized. One must develop two different habits to make productive use 
of the armhf-jessie install.  And its a mental distraction from ones 
train of thought that disturbs concentration and creativity.

The hereafter problem. :)
 
Cheers, Gene Heskett
Seems to be a common problem in many open source projects where contributors 
use different user interface conventions for the same type of input. I use 
ZenCart on my website and it's a nightmare. Options may be tagged with 
Enable/Disable, 1/0, On/Off, or True/False. Someone has to grab the reins and 
say "Everyone WILL use THIS term for this thing."
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Re: [Emc-users] Progress, if I spell it right

[Gene Heskett]

On Thursday 20 July 2017 08:02:03 Trent Hejazi wrote:

> try to use the finest thread pitch you can tap for on the  cat head
> bolts. it will make centering the barrel easier.

For thread strength in 1/8" thick alu, I have 8 or 10mm in mind. At 10mm, 
I may have room for the internal threading tool, and that removes the 
tp/mm problem as I can make them at 50 tpi. But it would be a heck of a 
lot faster just to use the 10mm tap(s) I have. If I have a 10x1 that 
should be usable. My 10's are more than likely 1.25mm pitch.  Picky but 
usable.  The cat head can use the same thread, but it will be steel.

And I guess I'd better get to it.

Thanks for the reminder Trent.

[...]

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] Progress, if I spell it right

[Gene Heskett]

On Thursday 20 July 2017 05:09:36 andy pugh wrote:

> On 20 July 2017 at 05:20, Gene Heskett  wrote:
> > Measuring the barrel, I'll
> > need to round up some 2" ID pipe about 11" long with 1/4" walls to
> > make that cat head.
>
> That seems rather long.
> Is the spindle bore big enough to pass the barrel down it and use a
> second 4-bolt steady on the left-hand end?

Yes, but I have to make its 8 bolts, 4 for clamping it on the end of the 
spindle, and 4 more to clamp the small or larger end of the barrel while 
doing the muzzle finishing. If the barrel is just at those bolts, and an 
11" long cathead (which will need 4 more bolts, totalling 12) is clamped 
in the chuck, I'll have around 2" of barrel sticking out of the cathead. 
If, at some time in the future I ever work on a shorter barrel, 
doubtfull because its now the only centerfire in my cabinet and I've no 
plans to purchase another, then I'll have to shorten the cathead to 
suit. But at my years its a 99.999% chance its a one time use.

I should make a box/crate and label it for the auction should I fall over 
before the missus. It will contain all the tools I've made and used once 
so far, specifically for a Enfield P-17.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] Progress, if I spell it right

[Gene Heskett]

On Thursday 20 July 2017 03:41:17 Chris Albertson wrote:

> Gene,
>
> Try h, j, k, l keys if the arrow keys don't work.VI was created
> LONG ago back when arrow keys were a luxury item.   The old "hjkl"
> still should work for you.
>
I'll see if I can remember to give them a try.

> It is un intuitive at first then you get into it and it is faster than
> using arrow keys because you don't need to move your hand   HL is left
> right JK is u down.

Its only half of them, Chris. The up-down arrows work fine. Focus is 
fubared too, forcing a click in the mdi line box before a return is 
recognized. One must develop two different habits to make productive use 
of the armhf-jessie install.  And its a mental distraction from ones 
train of thought that disturbs concentration and creativity.

The hereafter problem. :)
 
Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] Progress, if I spell it right

[Trent Hejazi]

try to use the finest thread pitch you can tap for on the  cat head bolts.
 it will make centering the barrel easier.

On Jul 19, 2017 11:25 PM, "Gene Heskett"  wrote:

> Greetings all; I am being attacked by UPS and USPS today.
> I got the metal I'd ordered today, a 1/4", 12x48 sheet of 6061t6, a 14"
> piece of 1/2x1 brass for steady rest shoes, and a pair of 1/2" hex brass
> bars to make cathead & spider bolts out of.  Measuring the barrel, I'll
> need to round up some 2" ID pipe about 11" long with 1/4" walls to make
> that cat head.
>
> I did get the end of the action squared up, and shaved a couple thou off
> the face of the bolt to square that up.  And with the 6061 plate I can
> make the dro mount for the tailstock.
>
> Would have made more progress but it was 107F in the shop when I pulled
> the door open with the hex brass in my hand, but I believe it will be
> easier and faster to make those screws in the bigger lathe with its 3
> jaw chuck than fool with TLM putting the 3 jaw back on it, thats  a pita
> trying to get those 6mm nuts re-started on the studs sticking thru the
> flange on TLM's spindle. Got about a dozen of those screws to make. 4
> ea, 3 different lengths.
>
> I got a universal arbor 2 or 3 days back, and a 5" diameter, 6000 grit
> diamond disk that should serve as a tool sharpener came in today too.
> Results TBD.
>
> Still waiting on the new live center.
>
> Anybody with some 75F weather to spare, I sure could use a train load of
> it here in WV.   My icemaker is being overworked.
>
> I do have one problem with the r-pi 3b and LCNC.  The arrow keys,
> left-right, work every place else but in the MDI cmdline box. So editing
> a line called back has to be done by clicking after the recalled line,
> then backspacing to where the change needs to be, and retyping the rest
> of the line erased by the backspace key.
>
> This has been a problem for the last 7 or 8 updates.  Works normally on
> the rest of the x86 machines. Swapping keyboards has no effect. BTDT.
>
> Thanks everybody.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> --
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> Genes Web page 
>
> 
> --
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Re: [Emc-users] Progress, if I spell it right

[andy pugh]

On 20 July 2017 at 05:20, Gene Heskett  wrote:

> Measuring the barrel, I'll
> need to round up some 2" ID pipe about 11" long with 1/4" walls to make
> that cat head.

That seems rather long.
Is the spindle bore big enough to pass the barrel down it and use a
second 4-bolt steady on the left-hand end?

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1916

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Re: [Emc-users] Progress, if I spell it right

[Chris Albertson]

Gene,

Try h, j, k, l keys if the arrow keys don't work.VI was created LONG
ago back when arrow keys were a luxury item.   The old "hjkl" still should
work for you.

It is un intuitive at first then you get into it and it is faster than
using arrow keys because you don't need to move your hand   HL is left
right JK is u down.



-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
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[Emc-users] Progress, if I spell it right

[Gene Heskett]

Greetings all; I am being attacked by UPS and USPS today.
I got the metal I'd ordered today, a 1/4", 12x48 sheet of 6061t6, a 14" 
piece of 1/2x1 brass for steady rest shoes, and a pair of 1/2" hex brass 
bars to make cathead & spider bolts out of.  Measuring the barrel, I'll 
need to round up some 2" ID pipe about 11" long with 1/4" walls to make 
that cat head.

I did get the end of the action squared up, and shaved a couple thou off 
the face of the bolt to square that up.  And with the 6061 plate I can 
make the dro mount for the tailstock.

Would have made more progress but it was 107F in the shop when I pulled 
the door open with the hex brass in my hand, but I believe it will be 
easier and faster to make those screws in the bigger lathe with its 3 
jaw chuck than fool with TLM putting the 3 jaw back on it, thats  a pita 
trying to get those 6mm nuts re-started on the studs sticking thru the 
flange on TLM's spindle. Got about a dozen of those screws to make. 4 
ea, 3 different lengths.

I got a universal arbor 2 or 3 days back, and a 5" diameter, 6000 grit 
diamond disk that should serve as a tool sharpener came in today too. 
Results TBD.

Still waiting on the new live center.

Anybody with some 75F weather to spare, I sure could use a train load of 
it here in WV.   My icemaker is being overworked.

I do have one problem with the r-pi 3b and LCNC.  The arrow keys, 
left-right, work every place else but in the MDI cmdline box. So editing 
a line called back has to be done by clicking after the recalled line, 
then backspacing to where the change needs to be, and retyping the rest 
of the line erased by the backspace key.

This has been a problem for the last 7 or 8 updates.  Works normally on 
the rest of the x86 machines. Swapping keyboards has no effect. BTDT.

Thanks everybody.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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[Emc-users] progress, slowly, and advice questions

[Gene Heskett]

Greetings all;

Got the new driver for the x motor a few days ago, a M542T, which looks a 
lot like the 2M542's I bought a 7 pack of most of a decade ago, and this 
was the only failure, which occurred while powered up at 42 volts, but 
no input or motor load. Has anyone had less than expected performance 
from one of these?

Still no psu for the x motor.  Got a shipping notice 3 says ago that said 
the psu that was supposed to be in noo joisy when I bought it on ebay, 
was shipping from seanzow, estimate delivery after Christmas.

Z is moving, but not optimized yet, thinking of reducing the divisor as 
an inch is in the 238xx range for scale.

I did manage to get the 254 volt 4 pole Hubble twist-lock socket on the 
wall warmed up yesterday. I could pull thru the 3 sweep length of 1/2" 
EMT conduit easy enough, but gave up and stripped the sheathing off the 
romex to get it the last 2 feet into the service box one wire at a time, 
thru the last 2 "pull elbows". I'll never buy another of those headaches 
despite LB's being 5x more expensive.  Changed the breaker from a dual 
20 to a dual 15 I had as this 15 is more than the lathe will need 
anyway.

Question: This phoney VFD cannot be made self protective in terms of 
motor minimum safe speed, without it haveing a very brutal start up jerk 
when reverseing, getting jump off the table worse if the minimum hz 
setting is raised to a real world safe setting in the 30+ hz area.  It 
will run at 15 hz, but at no load is drawing an amp more than the 
nameplate FLA doing it so I've never had it running that slow for long 
as it does heat it considering the fan isn't moving enough air for 
adequate cooling at 4xx rpms. Even at that speed, its still very stiffly 
running, I cannot noticeably slow it with a stick of oak against the 
pulley, smoking.

So I think I will skip that setting by putting it down to essentially 
zero in the VFD configuration, and do the start/stop profiles with the 
same hal code I put in TLM to reduce the broken drive parts in it, which 
must be working as I haven't broken a drive part it it in the nearly a 
year since I did it.  And a couple of times I've made it work its butt 
off for many hours at a time, piles of cast iron sand on the table that 
the apron was sweeping away as it moved.

This accel limit into the PID I put in the hal file has worked well, for 
the PM DC motors on both TLM and the G0704.

So I am considering shutting the related limits in the VFD off or as 
close as I it let me, and substituting my own in the hal file by 
importing that code block into the .hal file in the R-Pi and tuning it 
appropriately.

Short description of this code:

A limit3 controls the maximum rate of change fed to the PID (which 
doesn't exist in the R-Pi's hal) so its output will go directly to the 
SpinX1 via the 7i90's pwmgen.

This block of code does a hold on the direction command from motion such 
that the direction signal going out is held from changing until the 
pulse rate from the encoder says its down to a millisecond or so between 
pulses. The limit3's input is mux2'd to zero volts at the same time as 
this hold is in effect causing the speed output from the limit3 to 
decrease to zero when the motion direction is not the same as what is 
being fed to the motor controller.

When the encoders output says its nearly stopped, then the direction 
output is allowed to change, and at the same time, the mux2 reconnects 
the input of the limit3 to motions speed request.

This results in a very smoothly done motor reversal, doing regenerative 
braking when slowing to zero to make the reversal, and then doing the 
same to the accel curve as it accelerates in the other direction.

Since its not in a below practical speed for the VFD/motor for more than 
a small fraction of a second, it seems like I ought to be able to do it 
to the VFD as its regenerative braking is as observed so far, to be  
stronger than the DC braking it seems able to do.

The first thing I make will be a locking clamp on the back of the chucks 
back plate so it can't unscrew itself. :(  IMO, the flange on the 
spindle isn't thick enough to drill and pin for a lock, and the clamp 
collar pin to pin hole in the flange becomes critical. In the meantime, 
its reducing the chance it would unscrew the chuck since it is not now 
locked except slamming it against the end of the spindles threads.

What say the old hands here about this scheme for controlling the VFD and 
a 1 hp 3 phase motor its driving?

Thanks everybody.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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[Emc-users] Progress note on GO704 ball screw conversion

[Gene Heskett]

Greetings;

Unforch I did not take any pix, my back is complaining enough w/o the 
extra running around with a camera.

But I can relate that when installing the Y screw, the nut must be 
removed by unscrewing it with the supplied short piece of tubing 
following the bolt as it backs out, then dropping the nut into the base 
and inserting the screw thru the front of the base and into the nut so 
the tubing is pushed back out as the screw is screwed into the nut.  

That worked well, no dropped balls.

But when I then bolted the motor mount and thrust assembly onto the front 
of the base, it was found that the bolt was bent slightly, or machined 
crooked.  I took a block of wood under the quill, turned the bolt so it 
was highest, and used the quill to take about 2/3rds of the bend out of 
the bolt, then clamped the nut in about the center of its  wobble.  It 
feels good, no tight spots so I'll leave it.

Mods to the Y carriage for the x nut, as we've seen on youtube.  I not 
only had to make a clearance trench about .265 deep for the body of the 
nut, I also had to square out the corners of the thru slot where the nut 
gets clamped, the new nut was wider and was riding the curve in the ends 
of the factory slot, so a 1/4 mill was used to square up the ends of 
the slot by about 3/16 in all corners.  Then the nut fit well and 
clamped up in good alignment.

The 2 tapered gibs ARE NOT alike, there is about 15 thou difference in 
thickness, so mark them puppies when you take them out. I found it the 
hard way...

By then my back is yelling but I did a grimace and bear it, picked up the 
X table (north of 50lbs I think) and fed it back into place.  So now the 
tables are converted, and the X/Y motors mounted.

Quitting time for today, and its even past 5 here.  Theres a beer in the 
fridge with my name on it, calling for me. 

Jon, got the driver today, looks good, but I don't have a psu for it
cobbled up yet.

I did check the rpm disk, its somewhat smaller (about 1/8)  than one of 
the lathes encoder disks and with fewer, larger holes.  Making an 
encoder wheel ought to be fun.  The holes in the existing disk are huge 
(7/32?)compared to a milled slot, so I have no clue if I can just get 3 
of that small interruptor and make it work with a somewhat shrunken 50 
cycle wheel.  But once the Z motor is on it, and the 5i25 arrives, I'll 
sure try, first making the wheel.  The thought crosses my mind to make 
it with the same number of slots as this one has holes, and feed the A 
interuptor into the existing rpm display if its not line voltage hot. 

Question:

If that turns out to be doable, how coarse a slot count can the encoder 
work with for rigid tapping?

That has not been checked yet, but nothing would surprise me.

So thats the news from the WV version of Lake Woebegone.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene

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[Emc-users] Progress, sorta

[Gene Heskett]

Greetings;

I went out and wired up a breadboard, using software stepping, including 
2 of the 3 motors today, setting quite leasurely timings in the opto 
drive, but ran into a stepconfig limit when entering the horrible 
latency of this computer, finding stepconfig cannot set a base thread 
any slower than 50 u-s.  I made the motors turn the correct amounts I 
think, so I saved it and ran lcnc to the new config.  Boom at launch a 
realtime delay by the time it had drawn the axis screen.  But what the 
heck, its a test.

Looking at the waveforms with that slow pocket scope, it appears the 
on-off transition is the slower of the two, but is capable of a 2 or 3 
microsecond reset time on the port.  The drivers are faster than that by 
a good margin, so when the 5i25 arrives, I can probably use a .75 u-s 
reset time  can then move the motors quite a bit faster.

I also wheeled that isolation tranny to where I could take a meter to it 
and read the label, it has two windings and 5 leads as there is a green 
wire that may be to a static shield between the windings or ???

Each winding is rated 127 volts and about 17 amps.  It has a hole filling 
central plug, with a nylon strap fixed so it can be used as a handle to 
carry it.  I haven't investigated how hard it would be to drive out the 
plug, and uncover it enough to be able to remove a few turns to lower 
the secondary voltage.  I did some ebay searching, but haven't found 
anything I could use as a 24-36 volt buck, yet.  A 36 volt buck should 
give me about 127 volts dc with a cap input filter, which sounds about 
the right ballpark.  The thought crosses my mkind to use a choke input 
filter, which would also, given enough Henry's, would be about the same 
voltage, BUT a shutdown from heavy drive would quite likely run the 
output up to blow the caps levels unless I could find the correct 
varistor to absorb the surge, and that seems to require some knowledge 
of the black arts I haven't had to use yet from a design standpoint.

I don't have Jons driver yet either, or the 5i25  hopefully faster BoB, 
so I seem to have some downtime, which if I feel like starting it 
tomorrow, might be time to start on the mill teardown and see about 
getting the Y screw installed, or the Y carriage machined for the X nuts 
pocket as I've seen on youtube.  My toy mill can do that easy enough, 
and a hell of a lot neater job than the guy on youtube did using a drill 
press.

I also noted that Hoss has put some better ball bearings in the spindle, 
in his, which it appears I will have to do too, these roller bearings in 
it now will never run cool enough to be useable when 15 minutes no load 
wide open runs the bottom of the quill up to around 170F and makes it 
drip grease.  No way in hell to control the spindles growth and do 
precise work with it heating like that.
 
Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
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-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene

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[Emc-users] Progress, sorta

[Gene Heskett]

I have the extension with its imitation pipe thread all made except for 
the boring of a 13mm deep 9.25mm hole in the end for the screw to be 
inserted into.  And of coarse its not slit yet, tomorrows project.

I also have a round nut made, using the same thread taper, which will 
screw onto the extension about 2 turns.

Now if those thrust bearings would get here, the tracking said they were 
in the Windy City Friday night, must be time to hit the tracker again.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
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Re: [Emc-users] Progress, sorta

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 14 May 2014 18:59:15 Gene Heskett did opine
And Gene did reply:

 I have the extension with its imitation pipe thread all made except for
 the boring of a 13mm deep 9.25mm hole in the end for the screw to be
 inserted into.  And of coarse its not slit yet, tomorrows project(s).
 
 I also have a round nut made, using the same thread taper, which will
 screw onto the extension about 2 turns.
 
 Now if those thrust bearings would get here, the tracking said they
 were in the Windy City Friday night, must be time to hit the tracker
 again.
 
 Cheers, Gene Heskett

According to the tracker, its been in the sort center in Chicago since the 
10th.  With my luck it will show Friday, and will still be in Chicago if I 
check Friday evening.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
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Re: [Emc-users] Progress Report: Eagle Schematic to HAL code converter

[Ed Nisley]

On Sat, 2010-10-23 at 09:41 -0400, Kent A. Reed wrote:
 document existing configurations

That's sort of what pushed me into getting the schematic converter
running: I wanted to tweak my existing Logitech HAL configuration, but
the prospect of figuring out how it worked seemed too painful for words.

Using the loadrt and2 names=winken,blinken,nod option and naming the
nets doesn't help much, because names don't make the interconnections
any more obvious.

Get that reverse-documentation thing running: I'll use it!
 
-- 
Ed


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[Emc-users] Progress Report: Eagle Schematic to HAL code converter

[Ed Nisley]

I tweaked Martin's original Eagle ULP a bit, added some library devices,
then built a schematic to connect my Logitech gamepad Joggy Thing as an
EMC2 pendant.

The grisly details, links to background info, and current files are at:

http://softsolder.com/2010/10/23/logitech-gamepad-as-emc2-pendant-eagle-schematics-for-the-joggy-thing/

Shorter link: http://wp.me/poZKh-1qh

My intent is *not* to make a general do-it-all converter that can eat a
schematic describing an entire machine and spit out a complete HAL file
set, but to have something that can handle specific hardware gadgets
that fit into an existing machine's HAL files. Basically, that's about
all I understand how to do and have the machinery to test.

It's reasonably usable as-is; I'll write up an overview of the pendant
function for my Digital Machinist column.

After some tweaking, adding more library devices, and cleaning up the
internal doc, I'll figure out how to stuff the files back into the wiki.

Suggestions, commentary, and funny stories are welcome...
 
-- 
Ed


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Create new apps  games for the Nokia N8 for consumers in  U.S. and Canada
$10 million total in prizes - $4M cash, 500 devices, nearly $6M in marketing
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Re: [Emc-users] Progress Report: Eagle Schematic to HAL code converter

[Kent A. Reed]

On 10/23/2010 8:58 AM, emc-users-requ...@lists.sourceforge.net wrote:
 From: Ed Nisleyed.08.nis...@pobox.com
 Subject: [Emc-users] Progress Report: Eagle Schematic to HAL code
   converter
 To:emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 Message-ID:1287836715.3808.18.ca...@localhost.localdomain
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

 I tweaked Martin's original Eagle ULP a bit, added some library devices,
 then built a schematic to connect my Logitech gamepad Joggy Thing as an
 EMC2 pendant.

 The grisly details, links to background info, and current files are at:

 http://softsolder.com/2010/10/23/logitech-gamepad-as-emc2-pendant-eagle-schematics-for-the-joggy-thing/

 Shorter link:http://wp.me/poZKh-1qh

Sweet!

Not only is your work great but it's turned up the heat on me. I've gone 
a completely direction to try to document existing configurations using 
ATT's dot program (now part of Graphviz) but I'm not far enough along 
to open the curtains for the viewing public. I was inspired by Doxygen 
and its use of GraphViz to document call-graphs. My goal is to produce 
an html book of link-graphs and possibly component parameter lists.

Regards,
Kent




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Create new apps  games for the Nokia N8 for consumers in  U.S. and Canada
$10 million total in prizes - $4M cash, 500 devices, nearly $6M in marketing
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