Re: [h-cost] Elizabeth Bull wedding dress
Amazing work. Thank you so much for sharing this with us. Bridgette / Mari On Fri, Aug 7, 2015 at 9:50 AM, Wicked Frau wickedf...@gmail.com wrote: Someone just shared this with me on Facebookbeautiful! http://bostoniansociety.blogspot.com/2015/07/a-look-at-elizabeth-bull-wedding-dress.html?m=1 -- -Sg- http://bostoniansociety.blogspot.com/2015/07/a-look-at-elizabeth-bull-wedding-dress.html?m=1 http://bostoniansociety.blogspot.com/2015/07/a-look-at-elizabeth-bull-wedding-dress.html?m=1 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Marie Stewart 607 793 3409 maric...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Interesting underwear find
The Daily Mail Article is 'interesting' but the more interesting piece is the summary of the presentation from the NESAT conference. You can find it here. http://www.nesat.org/abstracts/lecture_nutz.pdf I sent out both links initially, but not to HCost, ah well. There's more information out there. I'm still finding items on it. Bridgette On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 10:36 AM, Beteena Paradise bete...@mostlymedieval.com wrote: I tried to read the BBC story but you have to have a subscription, unfortunately. However, I did notice that every news story out there seemed to stem from the Daily Mail story. And that is too bad. I am not discounting the importance of the find and the resulting research that will be available. That is awesome. What I find annoying is all of the headlines and news stories that say Medieval women wore skimpy linen bras and knickers. Teena From: Kate Bunting k.m.bunt...@derby.ac.uk To: h-cost...@indra.com h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2012 4:16 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting underwear find ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Renaissance dance costumes
Hey there. The pattern you have selected there is the gamurra, the under dress for practically all levels of Florentine society. The over dress, the Giornea was where the real flash would have been, sumptuous fabrics, jeweled necklines, brooches to hold them closed. The sleeves of the gamurra could be changed out, so that a woman could wear her 'usual' under dress, but put on the 'fancy fancy' sleeves and the giornea, and be ready for social events. So. How important is historical accuracy? If it's important, vital even, go with the RH patterns, both of them, and make the layers. If not critical, go with one of the big three. Mari. Wow. I'm not dead yet. Just looked like it. * * * * I have to make 20 costumes for an upcoming Italian renaissance performance and have been thinking about using http://www.**reconstructinghistory.com/**products/rh509-1470s-1500-** florentine-wohttp://www.reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh509-1470s-1500-florentine-wo mans-outfit-1#. Can you think of different ways we can decorate these gowns so they don't all look the same? Plus they need to look grand because we will be on stage under lights. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pouting about R. Wedding coverage
CBS this morning. I had thought to go to BBC America, but I can't get it in High Def. Got up at 6AM... and Just saw Catherine getting out of the Car, everything from that point on was LIVE. I would have seen more but I couldn't get myself up at 5AM. SO, go to CNN (or BBC) And watch the whole thing. It's posted. Mari ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] his blue coat
After a blistering trip to the Googles: Prussian Blue had been known as a painting pigment as early as 1704, but it was in 1752 the French chemist Pierre J. Macquerhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierre_J._Macquer made the important step of showing the Prussian blue could be reduced to a salt of iron, and a new acid, which could be used to reconstitute the dye. The new acid, hydrogen cyanide http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_cyanide, first isolated from Prussian blue in pure form and characterized about 1783 by the Swedish chemist Carl Wilhelm Scheelehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carl_Wilhelm_Scheele. Can't recall the name of the unfortunate chemist who discovered HCN. The tale with that story ends up with the poor chap quite dead, and stained blue, from the experiment with Prussic Dye. On Tue, Feb 1, 2011 at 2:32 PM, Marie Stewart maric...@gmail.com wrote: AH. One thing just struck my mind. This might be in the time period of the discovery of Prussic Acid and it's use as a dye. The first of the aniline dyes it was noted for being a vivid rich blue that didn't fade. Sorry I don't have the time to Google now... have to scoot. But, it's a theory. Mari On Tue, Feb 1, 2011 at 2:18 PM, Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.comwrote: I can't find the reference (which is going to drive me nuts!), but I seem to remember reading somewhere that it was because blue cloth was more expensive to manufacture, so wearing a blue coat told people that you could afford the best. Emily On 1/31/2011 7:53 PM, Hope Greenberg wrote: It's funny how something so commonly known can strike us afresh with questions. In this case: It's quite apparent that during the Federal/Empire/Regency or turn of the 18/19century period* a dark blue coat was the sign of higher status and, together with black, the most common color for full dress. The number of mentions in Austen, the number of fashion plates that show them indicates that this is so. Does anyone have any (documented) explanations why? The most common one seems to be because Beau Brummel says so though this blog post suggests a Goethe/Werther connection ( http://austenette.wordpress.com/2009/03/11/the-blue-coat/). Is it simply a fashion choice that became popular or does anyone know of an economic, political or other reason for the prominence of the blue coat? (For example, something like the tax on hair powder contributing to the demise of that particular fashion, or the tax laws regarding Irish linen that increased its popularity, etc.) - Hope * I'm tempted to start using the abbreviation FER to cover this time period! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] his blue coat
Hi folks. I must, respectfully, disagree with Ann on a point about the color Prussian Blue Prussian Blue is defined as absorbing wavelengths about around 680 nm, causing it to appear in visible light as approximately 700 THz. Which is a lovely strong blue leaning towards the violet end of the spectrum, not to the green/yellow end. (Methods of Chemical Analysis, 1998) I will agree with her that I misspoke when I said it was and aniline dye, its a cyanometalate. I would have been more accurate to say that Prussian blue was one of the first chemically synthesized dyes. Thanks for the redirect on that one. (navel gazing: We know that the dye was in the painters sphere in the early 1700s (18th century), but when did it move to the dyers sphere? Was it in the mid-1700s, thanks to Macquer's experiments with reduction, thereby giving an easily transportable salt? Or was it used popularly, or rarely before that. I'm going to go have to go research this. Fascinating topic. As a nifty side note, and a easy visual reference (although I got it from Wikipedia, so take it with a big grain of NaCl) the midnight blue crayon was once colored with and called Prussian blue. Mari ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] For the Fiber and sewing geeks :
Wow, It really does exist. A friend just sent me a link for 100% real silk velvet. Now all I need is that winning lottery ticket. http://aurorasilk.com/fabrics/silks_shiny/ALLSILKVELVET.html Happy drooling. Bridgette ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What colors were used Charles du Blois Purpoint?
I have always suspected that the button shape was related to the weight distribution of the armour. Bridgette ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Organization
I keep it all on a hanger. With a bag holding the notions and related items, and the garment on the hanger. IF there's no room in the closet for another bulky hanger, it's time to finish something. Mari I have a lot of those big Rubbermaid tubs for storing yardgoods; but what do you use for keeping individual projects together--pattern, fabric, etc.? I've been using 2-gallon industrial size Ziploc bags, but they are slippery, and from time to time I have a project avalanche. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?
H this encourages me to take a photo or two. Bridgette ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Historic Textiles Examination from Burgos Cathedral, Madrid Spain
OH, thank you. Mari / Bridgette On Mon, Jul 21, 2008 at 2:07 PM, Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: http://www.middelaldercentret.dk/pdf/burgosrapport.pdf My friend Camilla Louise Dahl sent this link to me to share. Enjoy Sg Sorry if this is a repeat - it didn't appear to come through on H-costume. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Does anyone in your Costume group know . . .
Need the URL to the image. I have a suspicion, but would like to verify. Mari 2008/6/18 [EMAIL PROTECTED]: My husband sent this to me. Has anyone seen this before? Thanks, Catherine Does anyone know where this picture comes from? A fellow on the Armour Archive is wondering. I find the idea of a clearly noble lady tending a forge more than a little jarring . . . **Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut000507) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Does anyone in your Costume group know . . .
Ah, it probably is, but my GMail is stripping the image out. Too bad. Mari On Wed, Jun 18, 2008 at 9:37 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Sorry, I thought the image was imbeded in the e-mail. I'll try again. Catherine In a message dated 6/18/2008 9:34:11 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Need the URL to the image. I have a suspicion, but would like to verify. Mari 2008/6/18 [EMAIL PROTECTED]: My husband sent this to me. Has anyone seen this before? Thanks, Catherine Does anyone know where this picture comes from? A fellow on the Armour Archive is wondering. I find the idea of a clearly noble lady tending a forge more than a little jarring . . . **Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut000507) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Stains
What is the fabric in question? On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 11:18 AM, Shane Sheridan Chabot [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I know this subject comes up from time to time, but I couldn't find if this particular one had been covered: How do you get stains from underarm deodorant out of fabric? This isn't a sweat stain, but residue and discolouration from the deodorant itself. Any ideas? Sheridan P. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Lace ID Help
It looks to me like Battenburg lace. At work... that's all I can think of without my books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mourning in Renaissance Europe
Here is the portrait of Mary in the French White Mourning veil. Note that she is wearing a simple French cut gown in black? beneath it. Mari http://www.nationalgalleries.org/media_collection/6/PG%20186.jpg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mourning in Renaissance Europe
Hm that's interesting. The white pleated wimple (like in this portrait) was worn in Ireland by widows in the 16th century. Kass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mourning in Renaissance Europe
I'm wondering if there is a Roman-Catholic / Gallic link... On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 11:56 AM, Kass McGann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ireland tended to be about 50 years behind the times as far as fashion went. So it was always assumed that this widow's wimple was just a hold-over from the late medieval period. But the portrait of Mary Queen of Scots you showed makes me think that it wasn't so much an Irish-only thing. Kass http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/ Looking for the perfect gift for the RH fan on your list? Try a RH Gift Certificate http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/index.php?s=c=123d=160e=f=g=w=21 q=1p=360r=Y . They never expire! http://reconstructinghistory.com http://community.livejournal.com/rh_community/ http://kass-rants.livejournal.com http://www.reconstructinghistory.blogspot.com/ -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Marie Stewart Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 11:42 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mourning in Renaissance Europe Hm that's interesting. The white pleated wimple (like in this portrait) was worn in Ireland by widows in the 16th century. Kass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mourning in Renaissance Europe
In the 16th century I can tell you this much. Black was worn for initial mourning, the first year or two, and is associated with deepest mourning. A cap of linen with a pleated veil was typical in France, and that would usually be white. Deepest mourning was typically depicted by all black, the white pleated veil of France is one exception that I know of. For secondary mourning other colors were deep grey, white, deep purple and black. Henry VIII wore deepest mourning for a full year after the death of Jane Seymour. Phillip the Bold (IIRC) wore deepest mourning for his father from his early 30s? until his own death. Mary Queen of Scots wore deepest mourning for at least a full year after the death of Frances. Widows would usually wear mourning until a second marriage, or for the rest of their lives. One way that a widow could signal a willingness to marry was to put off the black. Although it was socially expected that even a young woman would wear mourning for a husband for at least two years, one year of deepest mourning and at least one year of secondary. (and here I might be slipping into Victorian custom, so I'll stop.) That's the best I can do off the top of my head. Bridgette. On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 9:28 AM, Jane Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: A question has come up on another list about mourning colors in Europe during the Renaissance. Black was obviously worn for fashion, not necessarily mourning. Some sources say that white was worn for mourning in France. What say you? Thanks for your input, Jane In No VA ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Tailoring Revolution Was: Flat Bottomed Armholes
In very, very general terms the phenomenon you are looking at is known as the tailoring revolution. It started roughly 1350s with the advent of the button, in the higher echelons of society and as most fashion/garment techniques moved down. The flat bottom armhole that we are talking about is an interesting study, not so frequently seen in higher society - more readily seen in lower levels of society and the working class. And now it is far too late for me to write about this... must go sleep and then think more before I make the whole thing into a horrid muddle. Mari On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 5:50 PM, Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Those are very interesting observations Kass. I just love that kind of experimental investigation. Now I will have to think about the progression from sleeveless to sleeved - where/when did the style become less driven by fabric limitations and more driven by fit and style (If I remember correctly the Shinrone gown sleeve is just another rectangle sewn in the top of the armscye and ties around the wrist?? Monica, I thought I was talking about new topics :) Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Need some help
In the process of cleaning up my sewing room I have lost something and I need some help finding it - or another copy of it. What I have misplaced is a photo of a contract between a needlewoman/silkworker and the woman that she took on as a student. The contract spells out all the skills and needle arts that will be taught to the student. It is dated sometime in the mid to late 1500s. I am in need of finding this list of skills again and pulling my hair out that the one thing I should misplace is the one thing I need. Any clues as to where to locate this photo again (I originally found it in a book) would be gratefully appreciated. Thanks all. Mari ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Found it! - Colored shirts in the 16th century?
It could be a 'waistcoat' , sometimes called a 'shirt' in inventories, meaning a layer for warmth. Usually you find them as flannen, flannel, rarely lined silk, or sometimes linsey-woolsey, other materials are possible, I'm just not at my resources. 2cents reading out of context. Mari On Jan 18, 2008 2:47 PM, Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Fair enough, but I don't think the query required it to be underwear per se. Anyone know when shirt became applicable to over the underwear rather than the first layer? Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Looking for detail of image ca. 1510
How is your friend going to reproduce them? ~ Bridgette On 8/17/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thank you. A friend of mine is going to make the tulips for me and I wanted to give her the best image possible. kate ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Just a test
ooh, question for you. Did they happen to address how to splice in a thread if your original length of thread was too short? I've always made my buttons with exceedingly long lengths of thread for fear of not being able to figure out how to add more thread. Thanks, and good to have you home safe. Mari / Bridgette. On 8/13/07, Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I took a wonderful class on how to make 16th-century thread-wrapped buttons. I've been wanting to learn how to make these for a long time and even have a book with some instructions, but I never sat down and did it. Now I know the basics and can start on a set of buttons for the doublet I'm embroidering. Even better, making thread- wrapped buttons is a small and very portable project. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Just a test
thanks!! That is very helpful. Mari / Bridgette On 8/13/07, Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Yes. For the most part, the teacher recommended taking the end of the first thread under whatever is already wrapped around the core and out the bottom, where you've already got thread tails. Clip it to the length of the existing tails. Then take the new thread and snake it up from the bottom underneath the already-wrapped bits to continue at the same spot, leaving a tail of that thread hanging out at the bottom as well. It seemed to work fine with the designs we were doing, though it got a tiny bit bulky on one of them--probably practice will improve things! Melanie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Just a test
For those of us Pennsic Starved... tell, tell, tell... Of course, on topic things... : Mari / Bridgette On 8/10/07, monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: We are home early. Classes taught, Arts displayed. Too much rain! Monica -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brangwyne Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 11:58 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Just a test yeah, but tomorrow/today is the last day of that lovely camp. Starr Hey there... It is likely that many folks who portray 1600 and earlier have gone on vacation. There is a very large national historic-ish camp out happening this week. Me... I'm just having a lot of life at the moment. But it is kind of eerie to hear the crickets chirping. : Mari / Bridgette On 8/10/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Haven't seen any H-costume posts for a few days. Did everyone go on vacation??? [I hope so. Have fun y'all!] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Just a test
Hey there... It is likely that many folks who portray 1600 and earlier have gone on vacation. There is a very large national historic-ish camp out happening this week. Me... I'm just having a lot of life at the moment. But it is kind of eerie to hear the crickets chirping. : Mari / Bridgette On 8/10/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Haven't seen any H-costume posts for a few days. Did everyone go on vacation??? [I hope so. Have fun y'all!] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan Gowns - to train or not to train
Interesting statement that echoes a treatise on Elizabethan clothing that I am reading right now. Just as an observation, I would think that our idea of personal space has changed, and this in turn, is both a reflection of our clothing and reflected by our clothing. More musing on this is due. Mari / Bridgette [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Not only do people not see trains, but they have no concept of personal space. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] MCT4 (was: Scandinavian archaeological textiles)
Whooo h! I already want a copy. Mari Someone asked me about the editing on Scandinavian archaeological textiles I'm in the middle of, and it occurred to me you all might like a sneak peek of the tentative contents of Vol. 4 (2008) of Medieval Clothing and Textiles. Flax/linen production in medieval Russia References to scarlet clothing in Norse sagas The connection between Italian and Anglo-Saxon terms for wimple Linguistic background of coif/cuff Analysis of an extant 14th c. coif A visual classification method for archaeological textiles The Greenland gown and mainland European fashion Women's turbans in 15th c. French illuminations Henry VIII's quilts ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Women in Art Retrospective
Thank you Anne. http://tinyurl.com/23mle4 Enjoy! Anne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] asking for suggestions to fix sleeves
Thanks folks for the suggestions. I'm thinking along the same lines as Dawn, so I think I will try that first. I'm glad to hear from some one who has also conquered the same problem. Thanks again. Mari The problem, as you will see in the photo is the sleeves. It seems that I have taken a) too long to sew this dress together and b) that my weight training regime really is working. In short, my arms are too large for the sleeves. I do have a couple of ideas of how to fix that, but I thought I would ask here, just in case someone else has a better idea before I get started. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?
I now know what I want for my 40th b-day. Thanks Robin. : Mari On 6/4/07, Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: For the Italian costuming enthusiasts: http://www.costume-textiles.com/index.htm --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?
Mine said yes, as long as we throw in a bike tour. : Go for it! Mari On 6/5/07, Rebecca Schmitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: O...my husband promised me Italy for our 15th anniversary evil grin Do you think he'd go for it? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 16th century dress question embroidery
Ah yes! I've seen this portrait before. My first question, as always, is what did they do at the time? Embroidery I will admit is not my strongest suit and perhaps I am conjuring up the wrong mental picture of what you mean by wool felt. But my gut reaction is no, not wool. In part it is from my reading of inventories of the day... silk garments tend to be decorated with silk. Looking at the garment in Moda A Firenze I can't tell a darn thing. Oh well, had to try. Sorry, I hope your research turns up and answer, and that you will share it with us. Mari Several years ago I found a picture on the internet that I really liked. http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Blauw.jpg And several years ago I bought a very nice blue silk. I was wondering if red wool felt and gold cord would work for the embroidery. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fabric and Costume in Ireland
Oh! I was just there last summer. We spent a great deal of time on bicycles and looking through castle ruins so my shopping was relatively non-existent. But there is the Artisans Center in Kilkenny. Most if not all is modern work in various media, but still definitely worth a stop. Other places where I found hlookatthat items were the 16th century house in Kilkenny, and the 16th century manor house called Ormond Castle in Carrick-on-Suir. Have fun. Mari On 5/9/07, Kathy Hoover [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Saragrace's request for German shopping spots prompts me to ask the same for Ireland, in particular, western Ireland. I'll be on my way there in 9 days! We'll be spending a very quick and brief couple of days in counties Clare, Mayo, and Roscommon, then a more leisurely week near Cork and touring around the whole Southwest corner. Does anyone know of any treasure troves of linens, embroidery, Irish crochet, or exhibits of costume in any of the places I've mentioned? And not all our itinerary is set in stone yet. If there are any tourist spots that shouldn't be missed, I'd welcome all recommendations! Thanks, Kathy Saragracetk [EMAIL PROTECTED] 05/08/07 11:35 PM Any recommendations? I'll be there in September. I am planning on visiting Linen House Thanks, Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] MCT vol. 3 announcement
Thank you for posting the TOC, Robin. This volume looks just as packed full of interesting items as the others. Mari [Feel free to forward this announcement to other lists.] Volume 3 of Medieval Clothing Textiles, the journal I co-edit with Gale Owen-Crocker, will be released any day now. Here's the table of contents for this volume: snip ___ h-costume mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Moda a Firenze arrived
Pretty much the subject line says it all. My copy arrived yesterday. Funny story, and no cause for alarm... I immediately flipped through it and it is stunning. I sat down and opened it to the introduction and started to read the Italian... I had thought it was supposed to be in English but, ah well. I know enough to get the gist of things without a dictionary... so I slogged through the Preface. And as I sat there debating the meaning of a phrase my husband came in and asked what I was reading. With excitement I showed him my spiffy new book, and mentioned that my Italian was just a bit too rusty to really get the exact meaning without my dictionary... so I went to the shelf to fetch it while husband perused the book. He was smirking when I came back, and took the dictionary as I returned to the couch. He handed me the book - open to the first page, and said I don't think you'll be needing this as he took the dictionary. Wha And then I saw that the text is indeed in English side by side with the Italian... just not in the Preface. D'oh. But I'm loving it. Mari ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] silk filament thread
D'oh! head smack And then there are the days you just wish you had read the entire post before looking like an idiot. Try the YLI. Mari ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Mixing fibers
Aha... looks like the topic has headed in a direction that I am very interested and currently looking into. What I'm trying to find is evidence of when wool and silk might first have been spun together to form a thread or yarn. Not that I'm making copious headway at the moment, but it's one of those questions currently being pursued. Any have an answer? Thanks, Mari / Bridgette On 12/11/06, E House [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I couldn't quote you chapter and verse at the moment, but I've run across quite a few regulations/laws about mixing fibers fiber content. From what I can remember, they all boiled down to either quality control, or truth in advertising, and a lot of them were pushed by whichever guild applied. The only source I can think of for examples at the moment is Mizzoui's cotton book, which I don't have, or possibly textiler hausrat, which ditto. -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Edward I's wardrobe account
Hey there... I have had these in the past... but I think I have returned them. Let me check at home tonight, they might just still be on the shelf. On 9/19/06, Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Does anyone have either of these books? Can you tell me if they contain much useful information about textiles and clothing? Records of the Wardrobe and Household 1285-1286 edited by B. F. Byerly and C. F. Byerly Transcript of the book of the Controller of the Wardrobe and related household rolls showing Edward I's itinerary and expenditure for the year. 309p. (HMSO 1977) Records of the Wardrobe and Household 1286-1289 edited by B. F. Byerly and C. R. Byerly Full transcript of the extant records for a period when the king and his household resided almost wholly in Gascony. 678p. (HMSO 1986) --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Roman Soldiers
Nylon broom straw, in red if you can find it. Or regular broom straw, dyed, or painted. put a bunch together with a rubber band, make a puddle of glue (hot glue) stand the bundle up in it. ? Bridgette ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] New MCT Book was Update on Henry VIII book
grrr... still waiting for mine. Bridgette On Tue, 25 Apr 2006, Gytha Stonegrinder wrote: I got mine today! Looks good! Thanks, Kathy And, hurrah, mine just arrived! --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Update on Henry VIII book
Thanks for the update... Until then... I'm treating myself to reading the inventories of Henry VIII. Amazing stuff. On 4/24/06, Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I've just heard from my contact at the publisher that _Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII_, listed as forthcoming in 2006, will not be out till at least the end of the year or possibly early 2007. (The manuscript is not yet complete.) More whenever I know more. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Quick lace question
No library digging needed for this one, I think; I suspect you can give me enough for my purposes off the top of your head! Thanks... wow. Here's the situation: I'm editing an article that refers to depictions of the Virgin in 14th and 15th century European paintings as showing clothes decorated with such rich ornamentations as ermine, jewels, and pure gold lace. I'm quite familiar with the paintings of this period, and I've never seen anything in them that could reliably be called gold lace, I agree with you about the gold lace probably being a misapplication or a misinterpretation of the term. As far as is known lace evolved in the realm of linen fibers, not in the metalics. Bone lace, or bobbin lace, didn't show up until mid or near the end of the 16th century. And that was the breakthrough that led to metalic threads first being formed into patterns of lace and applied to clothing. The first records of the bone laces all seem to refer to linen fibers, but are soon filled out with laces in gold, silver and copper. Prior to that... there is all types of embroidered work, both in and above the cloth. Passamentiere work can be mistaken for lace in some cases. Now there is plenty of woven metalic edgings and ribbons that could have a pattern that appeared to be lacey. A pattern in the ribbon worked in gold on a ground of the same color as the garment... that's possible, maybe. Hope that's good enough... I don't have my Levy right next to me and I'm working from memory. BTW... an aside and a small rant... If this author is talking about or referring to the Prague exhibit in any way... they might be falling vicitim to some errors I saw in the exhibit information. There was one chausible, lovely thing, all 14th century embroidery, but the card next to it failed to mention that the orphrey (?) had been remounted sometime in the 16th or 17th century. Because there on the chausible all about the edge was a bobbin lace border of gold and silver thread gah! so, just FYI. Bridgette so I suspect that the author (not being a costume person) is misapplying a modern term to another type of decoration. She probably just means trim borders or embroidery, but I can't put words into her mouth. In asking her exactly what it is she's trying to call attention to, I need to explain that the wording she's used won't work, because lace (as readers would interpret the term) wasn't used yet. I'd like to be on firm ground when I say that, and it would help if I could say that what is commonly thought of as lace trim on clothing doesn't appear until X period; I suspect you're describing something else. So, I don't need a specific date for the technique, just a ballpark half-century or quarter-century in which something visibly recognizable as lace became commonly used as clothing decoration. I know I see recognizable lace all over Elizabethan art, and I don't see it in 14th century art. But I don't have a sense for when exactly it starts cropping up as a typical feature in depictions of clothing. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
I agree. ; The book does however, just cover that area of teaching that I needed it to cover, the I'm curious and want to look right(er), but I don't really want to learn the skills to make it personality that I occaisionally run across. I'll use it as a teaching tool Mari / Bridgette On 4/16/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I don't mean to be a stick in the mud but: snip The book has some very useful info in it, especially concerning men's hose and ladies' head gear. And it's convenient to have it all in one placemen and women. But it's very basic and uneven. Honnisette's book has better instructions for what are practically identical patternswhich if you can understand from this book, you probably don't need instructions. Examples in the book look costume-y and have skimpy yardages and even cutt ing boo-boos. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Clothes fitting
Thank you for that article... very interesting. Now what the retailers are missing is the opportunity to expand, and raise their sales. Imagine... A large chain adopts the Fitlogic system. Inside their stores, they create separate boutiques, or even a small independent entity. One for each body type. Stock the items that flatter that body type the most in their respective sections. In larger chains you could even have different stock for a particular body type in different stores. If a customer finds something they like in one section, but it is not their body type, allow them to order (or request from another store) that item in the fit they want. This wouldn't be anything revolutionary, major chains already swap clothing around between stores. How many women would love to have a store that they knew the items would be a better fit. You see it already, women have brand loyalty, if a line provides better fit. Oh, just think about it... stores might actually have to sell more items on style and quality if they took out the fit roulette. Mari - still irked that Banana Republic stopped making the perfect fitting jean in 1992. Clothes That Fit the Woman, Not the Store By MICHAEL BARBARO Published: March 31, 2006 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tailoring a man's shirt
Brilliant! I'll go look. Thanks! Yeah...how are the armholes? Look at the construction. I'll bet the sleeve seam and the side seams were sewn last and at once. [Flat fell seams?] 4 is just 2 a side seam, which is 1 on the front piece and 1 on the back piece. IOW, if you fold the shirt on the side seam and come in 1...and do that on both sides, you've got your chest prob solved...but you'll need to taper that pinch out to nothing in the sleeve seam. If there's oodles of room in the upper sleeve, you're OK. And then, like already suggested, 2 banana darts either side of CB that take up 1 at waist level and taper away to nothing quickly [like a 1970s shirt] will do the extra you want out of the waist. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Any other photo album site recommendations?
Smugmug.com An example of one of their albums is at ithaca.smugmug.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Tailoring a man's shirt
Hi folks... I'm stumped and needing some help. My husband has a nice new dress shirt. But except for the neckline, which does fit, the rest of it resembles something ala Barnum and Bailey. This shirt is huge. How on earth do you approach taking 8 inches out of the waist and 4 inches out of the chest? Are we talking a total deconstruction job? Any help would be welcome. Thanks, Mari / Bridgette ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: opera
Hi folks. Also coming in late... but this I can comment on. I do sing opera, and I do wear corsets, sometimes both together. (side note) Remember, corset shapes are not all the same. (/side note) What I tend to wear are 1550+ to about 1700 corsets. Most of these are somewhat cylindrical in shape. I have found that wearing a corset actually helps my breath support, because it makes me more conscious of the areas involved in supporting the voice. How to explain this... (insert useless floundering) gahh... I just really can't think of a way to explain without putting my hands on peoples backs, bellies and sides... Opera, any well supported singing for that matter, is not about big lungs and gasping for air, It's about support, flow of the air column, and unobstruction of the sound. And that's probably as clear as mud. Hence why I don't teach voice. As for the Queen of the Night Aria... heheh... I cannot sing it I'm not a Coloratura, but another of my coaches students can, and has, while wearing a baroque gown, with corset. : She brought the house down. Mari / Bridgette On 11/28/05, Caroline [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have come to this thread late so do appologise if this sorth of thing has been mentioned before. As a singer putting on a proper corset to sing means you can't get the air in nearly so well as without. The notes are then naturally shortened, compressed and quiter. Now perhaps the very 'big' singing of modern days would not sound so full or loud sung by women in corsettry. Alternatively - did opera singers wear corsets - I can't even begin to think how to sing something like the Queen of the night aria in a corset. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Mus. of London... knit question
Dame Catriona... Hey there... I don't know of any knitted garters. I've looked at lots of inventories and wills and not seen them mentioned. Of course, that doesn't mean that they don't exist, just that I haven't seen any in about 7 years of historic knit research. Have you tried over on the historic knit list? Those folks are a font of information. Good luck in your search. I'll keep an eye out and if I see any I'll certainly post to HKnit, and try to remember to post here as well. Please, if you find anything do share, I'd love to see an example of these. Sincerely, Mari / Bridgette On 11/23/05, monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Is there anything out there about knitted garters? Italian preferably, but English , French or German will do. If there is a reference out there , please let me know. There is a discussion on garters, knitted and otherwise on another list... Thanks, Dame Catriona MacDuff ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Mus. of London... knit question
On 11/23/05, Kate M Bunting [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Since working all knit stitches is known as garter stitch, knitted garters must have been common at some period! Hey Kate - It is indeed possible. Most of my research is in the pre-1600 time frame, so that is the only area on which I can comment. I only said I hadn't seen any, not that they didn't exist. : I would be very interested to learn when they were common. And please - if you know of anything, or find anything do share. I would very much like to learn more. Thanks, Mari / Bridgette ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Holbein - before England portrait
It's quickly become a favorite of mine. : I have the coat... over gown... whatever - someone have a correct name for it? Next on the list... after the Lace Commission... is to make myself that Hemd. Hemd=Chemise - if I have that right. I just love that white worked collar. Then it's the apron. vbeg This one portrait just has so many interesting bits and items. Mari / Bridgette... like I don't already have enough to do. On 11/16/05, Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Marie Stewart wrote: This is the painting which inspired me. Holbein before England ... I misremembered the date. Portrait of Young Woman Artist: Hans Holbein 1517 That's a nice one! I don't believe I've seen that before. Thanks for sharing! Melanie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Muppet Fur
Muppet Fur is what I call the currently popular Acrylic furlike fiber. Some folks call it Teddy Bear, some folks call it eyelash. LONG URL... but this gives the texture. The lining I used is in black. Got the fabric for a steal from my local shop. The texture approximates the look in the portrait, and seeing as this project was just for fun, I went with the Muppet. : http://www.fabric.com/Webdata/Product/d4ebf93b-829b-405c-b49d-68a951920948/Images/Medium_AK-781.jpg Mari On 11/14/05, Catherine Olanich Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Monday 14 November 2005 1:51 pm, Marie Stewart wrote: A German coat a'la 1580. Front opening fitted bodice, skirt pleated in the back. Made of rust fulled wool, lined with black Muppet fur. The long sleeves end in hefty turned back cuffs, and a black silk cord is couched along the entire circumference. Sounds lovely. But what is Muppet fur? -- Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical results, but that's not why we do it.--Richard Feynman ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Muppet Fur
This is the painting which inspired me. Holbein before England ... I misremembered the date. Portrait of Young Woman Artist: Hans Holbein 1517 http://www.wga.hu/art/h/holbein/hans_y/1518/5wife.jpg On 11/15/05, Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Marie Stewart wrote: Muppet Fur is what I call the currently popular Acrylic furlike fiber. Some folks call it Teddy Bear, some folks call it eyelash. LONG URL... but this gives the texture. The lining I used is in black. Got the fabric for a steal from my local shop. The texture approximates the look in the portrait, and seeing as this project was just for fun, I went with the Muppet. : Which portrait? This coat sounds interesting, and I'd love to see your inspiration. Also, depending on the surface quality of the fur, you might be able to make a case for it being similar to silk shag, which was popular in some places in the later 16th c. (See pics of the lining in Verney's loose gown in Patterns of Fashion, p. 38.) Melanie Schuessler ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?
A German coat a'la 1580. Front opening fitted bodice, skirt pleated in the back. Made of rust fulled wool, lined with black Muppet fur. The long sleeves end in hefty turned back cuffs, and a black silk cord is couched along the entire circumference. Just for fun. Didn't even bother to hand sew this one. Mari / Bridgette ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: KWCS report?
Sounds like it was well worth the trip. Thank you for sharing. If I may ask... would you also share the pleat work contact information... I don't want to swamp the poor lady ; but I would love to see what she has found. Many thanks, Mari / Bridgette And finally, the pleatwork class was really great. She should write a book. Someone on this list was asking about pleated smocks a few months ago -- something about the way the sleeves were placed so there wasn't a shoulder seam but the torso part was pleated into the neck. Whoever that was, e-mail me, and I'll give you the contact info for the teacher of this class, because she had documentation of what you were talking about. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Punto Tagliato Lace Commission...
Hey there... the squares which hold the Punto Tagliato work are all near to 4.5 inches in length and each little square is approximately 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch. These panels of lace will decorate the exterior of each sleeve, and only be seen if peeking through an over layer, or when the lady removes her outer sleeves. ; So pretty much - I suspect the full scope of the sleeves won't be seen once the project is finished. Mari / Bridgette On 10/9/05, Lloyd Mitchell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: This project looks like it will keep you out of mischief! In real size, how big are these pieces to be; or are the pics real size? You speak of sleeves and chemise: will this piece show outside or will it remain only for interior beauty? Kathleen - Original Message - From: Marie Stewart [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: HCostume [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Brenda / Filipia [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 5:11 PM Subject: [h-cost] Punto Tagliato Lace Commission... Hi all... working late and finally have a chance to update things... so just in case anyone is interested in the state of the Punto Tagliato Lace Commission... http://www.people.cornell.edu/pages/ms154/LaceComm/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tippets
Robin Netherton has written quite an explanation of tippets. The article is in the first Journal of Medieval Clothing and Textiles. Information there may help you in your efforts to produce your own. The article is scholarly, and not a how-to-make type. Of course... you might have already read it. ; Good Luck . Hope this helps. Mari / Bridgette On 10/8/05, Kahlara [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have found very little info so far on tippets and how they were made. A couple of sources I found said it was a strip of white linen tied above the elbow. Others said it was sewn on. Yet other things I have seen and read make it seem like a scaled down version of the wide belled sleeves and made from the same fabric as the surcotte. Anyone ever looked into this? They had to have been sewn on somehow, or else how would you prevent them from sliding down the arm? I saw one version at an SCA event that had them like a lining on a cuff and then turned up to show the contrasting fabric. Does anyone know if there is any extant examples that are clear on the construction? Or any resources that may be specific on the construction. From what I have seen, the SCA example I saw was not accurate. Annette M - Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Punto Tagliato Lace Commission...
Thank you Kimberley. : Mari / Bridgette On 10/7/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: It is awesome! You are doing a fabulous job. :) ~Kimberley ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Punto Tagliato Lace Commission...
Hi all... working late and finally have a chance to update things... so just in case anyone is interested in the state of the Punto Tagliato Lace Commission... http://www.people.cornell.edu/pages/ms154/LaceComm/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Embroidered Coif from VA/ stitch question
Hi folks... remember... stitch names vary - sometimes wildly from era to era, and author to author... Others remain stable. That is why I gave the name of the author as well as the name of the stitch as it is described in their book. OK... so the smocking site uses the term basket stitch a different way... fine... not the one I was referring to... ; And in addition some groups have traditional names or use intentionally older names for stitches, and that can add to the confusion. For example, in my area of the SCA this stitch is called plaited chain or plaited braid stitch. The second one always makes me ask for clarification, because plaited braid as I learned it from my grandmother was an open stitch used for filling in various embroidered laces. Mari / Bridgette On 9/24/05, otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I do not think it is a basket stitch but I could be wrong. http://www.fashion-era.com/smocking_page_2.htm ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Embroidered Coif from VA/ stitch question
Hey there... that is a form of chain stitch. give me a sec... I'll go look for a reference... rummagedropmumble... OK... Therese de Dilmont calls it Basket stitch. Which is just a modified chain. p. 135 in the 2002 reprint. In my original volume p. 139. Mildred Davis -- calls it simply heavy chain. And the VA... in their descriptions of items that use the stitch calls it just plain chain stitch in metallic threads. I find de Dilmont to be the best description for boullion work. Have fun. Mari / Bridgette On 9/24/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Greetings~ I am looking to make my daughter a coif embroidered like ones worn in the 15th and 16th century in England. I am planning to incorporate blackwork surface embroidery as well as gold embellishment. I have run across a particular embroidery stitch repeatedly, and cannot figure out exactly which stitch it is. I have seen it in many period pieces, and would like to use it in her coif. You can see it in this close-up at _http://costume.dm.net/va/coifs/blackgoldcloseup2.jpg_ (http://costume.dm.net/va/coifs/blackgoldcloseup2.jpg) I am specifically referring to the gold embroidery. It looks like it could be a braided chain stitch or the double back stitch, or somethingbut I would like to try to find out from someone who has more knowledge about embroidery from that period exactly what it is. I tried, once, doing a heavy chain stitch with metallic thread on satin, and it was abysmal failure. The metallic thread just kept making a mess. It could be that it was the satin, and that I needed a looser weave of fabric, such as the linen I will be using, but I would also like recommendations for the best metallic thread to use to get a look as close to accurate as possible. I also understand that there is a particular silk thread to use for blackwork that gives a very nice, clean finish. I am very limited locally, and will have to do mail order for all of my supplies for this project. Any suggestions for sources would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Kimberley ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Odd Jerkin question...
Lovely find, Marc. I don't recall anything off the top... but I'll certainly keep it in mind. Mari / Bridgette On 9/19/05, Marc Carlson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Recently while digging through the old _Catalogue of the Collection of London Antiquities in the Guildhall Museum._ London. 1908, I found pictures of several scraps of leather Jerkins (It looks like there are pieces from at least three jerkins). Has anyone ever published anything on these? I can't find anything in the stuff I have available, but I don't have any indexes to most of the costuming journals. The catalog doesn't have much information - what there is I've extracted to here: http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/histshoe/guildhallcat/index.htm Marc ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] avoiding pain and distress, hang in there all
Hi folks... I'm sorry to see that Bjarne is being insensitive again. I did not see what he wrote, and I have no desire to - I made a policy some time ago to send all his posts to the trash unread. I hope he hasn't hurt anyone with his words. The last thing we need is more pain and distress. Hang in there all. Much love Mari / Bridgette On 9/2/05, Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Bjarne, This might give you an even better idea of what the US is all about, even when we are stripped down to the essentials. The Coronation may seem trivial, but the determination to make it happen isn't. Sort of like the Danish Crown not giving up when the Nazi's poured over your borders. Not a natural disaster, but close enough for government work. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] re: Gores
Hi folks... good discussion here... thanks, Just how many extant garments do we have to make that assumption on? I would personally think that gores varied ... some pointy, some not. I didn't say no gores in the 13th century are sharp. I said it's a mistake to assume, from the evidence we have, that sharpness of gores was considered an important workmanship issue, or that medieval methods would, if properly done, necessarily produce sharp gores. Excellent point - and one on which many re-creators, re-enactors get stuck. It's a point where the modern aesthetic conflicts with the medieval evidence. but I haven't seen evidence that they had any motivation to do this. Let me look through my resources... it'll be an interesting thing to go look for. One area that is a bit later than medieval is the Tudor and Elizabethan shirt, in these we tend to see very precise stitching and setting in of gores and godets. My point is this: snip hallelujah! Yes... it is true that many people assume that a flat or even tucked gore is wrong. And it is true that there are only a few of us out there that teach this alternative to the masses, but as you know education is a process... and I have faith that one day the balance will tip so that the common wisdom comes more in line with actual evidence. Until then, we keep teaching. But we have absolutely no reason to think that flat, sharp gore points were valued, and what little data we have seems to suggest otherwise. This I would point out is arguable, mainly because we do have so little data to work with. We do know that longevity and wearability would be valued... so if someone was to use a non-flat topped gore, it would be to their benefit, and help the life of the garment to make that insertion to the best of their ability. but I typically hear the razor-sharp gore point presented as a quality of accurate or well-made garb, Well, it is a quality of well made clothing. If that is what you are going for. As to accuracy, I think we have a new question to investigate, just what type of gore/godet was used when? I wouldn't be surprised, for instance, to find out that some judges at SCA costume competitions would grade people down for gores with rounded tops or slight pleats, under the assumption that it's badworkmanship. I agree with you, and again that would be the triumph of the modern aesthetic over the actual. But it could also be for a lack of knowledge... so we have another place to educate. Now this crosses over into a far broader topic... one that I've been starting to address at my lectures. The battle between the modern aesthetic and period construction. It's been an interesting area of research. this is good sewing technique without realizing that the garments *of the period they're teaching* show no evidence of those methods (e.g. gathered sleeve caps, French seam finishing, stay-stitching, facings, pattern matching -- and other techniques that were valued in some periods but not in others). In this instance, and in many others, ISTM that if you approach the construction of a garment using the materials and techniques available to the person of the period you're reconstructing and consistent with the known evidence, you're likely to come to different conclusions about what makes sense and what works well than you would if you use modern techniques and materials. I'll take this one step further. Working with accurate methods and materials does indeed give you a better understanding of the process. I highly recommend it. BUT you also need to approach the process with an open mind and without preconceptions. For example with needle and thread I can produce sharp gores and I have also produced rounded gores (a chemise) and Flat topped gores (the infamous Kielbasa dress), and pleated gores (a different chemise). It's not only about familiarity with the media, but working towards mastery. On that line, I've been thinking about the small pleat in the top of the St. Louis shirt gore. There's no question that the shirt is well-made by a person highly skilled at sewing, so I would assume the pleat is intentional. I wonder if that slight pleating would make the gore wear better and work better, because it would allow you to spread the body of the shirt a little wider before encountering resistance at the stress point. If the gore is perfectly flat, you can't open the angle of the slash quite as far (unless you make the bottom of the gore correspondingly wider). With a flat gore, if you need to allow for a sizable amount expansion over a short vertical distance from waist to hip, you need to make a fairly wide angle, which commits you to a certain degree of width at the bottom. Making the top of the gore a little flatter and wider, and taking up that excess width in a small pleat, lets you get the sides of the finished gore further apart in those top few
Re: [h-cost] Great News!!!!!
Dear Penny... This is surely one Blessing. I'm so happy for you. And I hope many more are coming in the days ahead. Sounds to me like that Hotel was put there for a reason... and maybe it's work isn't done yet. Thank you for sharing this joyous news with us. It helps. ::hugs:: Mari / Bridgette It is so funny, a man bought that old hotel and gutted one part of it, but left the part facing the beach in tack. He ran out of money, and quit work on it. The city wanted to tear it down. But the coastal residents fussed so much that the city didn't tear it down. A lot of memories were in that hotel from the Biloxi citizens. The irony of the hotel... my husband and I went disco dancing in their ballroom when we were dating 30 years ago. My sister met her first husband dancing in the hotel's ballroom. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] re: Gores
I hand sew everything... and my gores are razor sharp. All it ever takes is practice. As for no gores in the 13th century being sharp... Just how many extant garments do we have to make that assumption on? I would personally think that gores varied ... some pointy, some not. YMMV, Bridgette However: The original poster was trying to make a 13th century garment. The best way to get a 13th c. effect is to use 13th c. techniques. If you use a modern machine technique to set your gore, you'll get a modern (pointy) gore, which appears *not* to be something that is found in medieval clothing. The best way to achieve the medieval-looking gore is to use the medieval method, which is hand-sewing. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
