Re: [h-cost] Victorian button boots

[Sharon Collier]

Another place to try is Amazon Drygoods. They came close to going out of
business a few years ago, but are still there. I know someone who makes
Elizabethan custom shoes. I'll ask him if he does Victorian.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2016 3:35 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian button boots

I have already asked, she says sizes under 6 just don't sell well enough.

Fran


On 8/30/2016 3:30 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:
> Try asking Lauren (owner American Duchess) if she can make you a 
> smaller pair. There might be others who'd like smaller sizes.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] 
> On Behalf Of Lavolta Press
> Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2016 3:21 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Victorian button boots
>
> I had a nice pair of Victorian repro button boots with scallops. They 
> looked very authentic. I need to replace them. Does anyone know where 
> I can get a replacement?  American Duchess won't work for me. There 
> are a number of their shoes I would buy if they made smaller than a 
> size 6, but I wear 5 or
> 5 1/2.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Fran
>
> Lavolta Press
>
> Books on historic clothing
>
> www.lavoltapress.com
>
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>
>

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Re: [h-cost] Victorian button boots

[Sharon Collier]

Try asking Lauren (owner American Duchess) if she can make you a smaller
pair. There might be others who'd like smaller sizes.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2016 3:21 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Victorian button boots

I had a nice pair of Victorian repro button boots with scallops. They looked
very authentic. I need to replace them. Does anyone know where I can get a
replacement?  American Duchess won't work for me. There are a number of
their shoes I would buy if they made smaller than a size 6, but I wear 5 or
5 1/2.

Thanks.

Fran

Lavolta Press

Books on historic clothing

www.lavoltapress.com

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Re: [h-cost] Non destructive testing for wool/synthetic

[Sharon Collier]

Wool often has a distinct smell when wet. Try getting a bit wet and
sniffing. 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Elizabeth Jones
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 11:47 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Non destructive testing for wool/synthetic

Hi everyone,
This is not directly historical but I knew this list would be my best chance
of an answer.
My uncle sent my 2 month old son a gift of a hand knitted cardigan which he
bought from a charity stall. without a label I have no way to know if they
have used wool or acrylic yarn.
I know I can test using bleach or a burn test but I don't want to damage the
garment is there a non destructive test I can do on a finished garment?
Thanks
Elizabeth
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Re: [h-cost] Craftsman decorating

[Sharon Collier]

The arts and crafts movement shunned mass produced items. So, how about
something like this:
http://www.worldmarket.com/product/carats+barware.do?=fn


-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2016 4:17 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Craftsman decorating

Following on the lace curtain discussion, any suggestions for Craftsman/Arts
& Crafts glasses, for iced tea and lemonade? About 14 ounces?  My husband
and I are drinking lemonade every day now that we have a Meyer lemon tree,
which fruits pretty much continuously all year.  Meanwhile, we only had
four, nonmatching glasses from different sets of ours and our respective
parents', and one of those just broke.  
Does anyone know of any glasses that look Arts & Crafts?

Thanks for any help.

Fran
Lavolta Press
Books on historic clothing
www.lavoltapress.com


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Re: [h-cost] Another historic-house lace curtain source

[Sharon Collier]

I  got an email from a place called "The Wooden Duck". They carry a line of
garden furnitureFermob---which is metal. Charming designs, but I don't
know the prices. The website is www.thewoodenduck.com

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2016 10:57 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Another historic-house lace curtain source

http://www.cottagelace.com/

Fran
Lavolta Press
www.lavoltapress.com
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Re: [h-cost] Curtains for old houses

[Sharon Collier]

Your home is going to be lovely!
Sharon

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2016 11:35 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Curtains for old houses

We saw the Hoot Judkins, but the quality is not as good as Barn Furniture
and Amish Direct. Both the latter places will cut deals. About 10-15% off
and free shipping is the range.

Fran

On 2/27/2016 11:09 AM, Sharon Collier wrote:
> Good to know. I've seen Amish made furniture at the local Hoot 
> Judkins. It's lovely, but as you say, very pricey.  Good luck with the
hunt.
> Sharon
>

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Re: [h-cost] Curtains for old houses--a fabric

[Sharon Collier]

That is lovely stuff. And the price is great. If you have a shower, you
could use this as an outer curtain;whatever color the inner, waterproof one
was would show off the pattern nicely. Or, as you said, historic dresses.
(in my spare time).

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2016 9:52 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Curtains for old houses--a fabric

BTW, I wanted curtain fabric by the yard because this house has six basic
sizes of windows, plus a few outliers, and the architect had no problem with
putting two or three sizes, shapes, and placements of windows in one room. I
ended up buying lace drapes from all four of the historic lace drape sellers
I mentioned, plus a heap of unused Quaker lace drapes from eBay.  But, back
when I was searching for an all-natural fabric that would give me a uniform
look on the sheer drapes, I bought some of this from the Etsy seller
FabricTreasury:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/123909862/sheer-cotton-curtain-fabric-unbleache
d?ref=shop_home_feat_2

This is a very thin, good-quality, 100% cotton muslin suitable for a variety
of historic dresses. The seller has several other woven patterns of it and
as she points out, it can be dyed. I tested shrinkage and it shrinks a lot,
so thorough preshrinking is essential.  It's the kind of fabric you could
pull through a wedding ring and it will be a pain to sew.  I decided on hand
sewing as being overall less trouble than machine sewing over tissue paper.
Then decided not to use this fabric right now because I already have to sew
all the outer drapes; the seller took all their window coverings.  Maybe
I'll use it for sheer drape replacements. Anyway it's nice fabric at a good
price.

Fran
Lavolta Press
www.lavoltapress.com
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Re: [h-cost] Curtains for old houses

[Sharon Collier]

Good to know. I've seen Amish made furniture at the local Hoot Judkins. It's
lovely, but as you say, very pricey.  Good luck with the hunt. 
Sharon

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 10:29 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Curtains for old houses

We're not looking for used furniture (unless you know someone with some
great antiques).  We'll just get the patio furniture we want to begin with,
and buy it in Sacramento or by mail order and have it delivered. 
It's true Sacramento summers are so hot people seem to spend a lot of time
outdoors, but we won't move for weeks. We're still waiting for the Amish
indoor furniture we had made to be delivered. We ordered from two
distributors and they both take 12-14 weeks from the order date to deliver.
BTW, Amish-built furniture is the way to go if you want new Arts & Crafts
furniture. We bought a lot of great Arts & Crafts and Art Nouveau antique
furniture in the 1980s. But we needed more for a larger house, and
discovered that Arts & Crafts is out of style these days. 
Hardly any local antique stores have it.

These are the distributors we bought from:

http://www.barnfurnituremart.com/

http://amishdirectfurniture.com/

We haven't seen any of our furniture yet, but Barn Furniture Mart is in LA.
My husband flew down there to look at the display furniture in the store and
was very impressed with their quality. All the Amish outdoor furniture,
though, is rough, rustic picnic tables and that sort of thing.

Fran
Lavolta Press
www.lavoltapress.com











On 2/26/2016 9:44 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:
> Around here, we have an email group called Next Door. There may be one 
> in your area. Also, have you checked Craigslist?  If you want, I can 
> put out a request for aluminum patio furniture. (I'm in Redwood City, 
> have friends who live in Sacramento.) Also, IKEA has some metal 
> furniture that you might find acceptable. Table and 2 chairs for$99. A 
> stand-in, maybe until you find the stuff you really like.
> Sharon C.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] 
> On Behalf Of Lavolta Press
> Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 7:59 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Curtains for old houses
>
> Looking for lace curtains for our Sacramento house (which we are 
> decorating in Arts & Crafts style) has been a pain in the tail because 
> lace curtains are very much out of style.  I was unable to find any 
> cotton lace drapery fabric with an overall, antique-looking pattern. 
> And very little lace fabric at all, just sheers with modern patterns that
scream synthetic.
>
> However, I've found a number of pricey but authentic-looking sources 
> for old-house curtains:
>
> * J. R. Burrows, as previously suggested on this list 
> http://www.burrows.com/lace.html
>
> * Olde Worlde Lace
> http://www.oldeworldelace.com/
>
> * London Lace
> http://www.londonlace.com/
>
> * Albert Rackstand Lace on Etsy
> https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlbertRackstandLace?section_id=16135864=
> shopse
> ction_leftnav_9
>
> In addition I recommend trolling eBay and Etsy for:
>
> * Quaker Lace curtains. A hugely popular 20th-century brand, so you 
> can still find 100% or at least 75% cotton lace curtains for sale in 
> their original packages.
>
> * Quaker Lace tablecloths. Denser laces but usable, and often 
> available for low prices.  Try and stay away from the thicker ones made in
the 1960s.
>
> * Knotted lace tablecloths.  Also known as darned net, lacis, and 
> sellers may even call it crochet or bobbin lace or still other terms.
> Whatever:  These are 100% natural fiber, sturdy, and very handsome. 
> They probably date from the 1940s, give or take some years. Patterns 
> can be either geometric or flowing.  I don't like the geometric ones 
> as much, but it's easier to find matching tablecloths in the geometric
patterns.
>
> The difficulty is finding two tablecloths with the same pattern and 
> especially, in *exactly the same shade of white or off-white*. But for 
> rooms with single windows, the tablecloth solution can be a handsome 
> and economical way to go.
>
> For non-lace fabric, I recommend Restoration Fabrics and Trims:
>
> *
> http://www.restorationfabricsandtrims.com/store.html#ecwid:category=19
> 4227
> ode=category=0=normal
>
> Also plain linens available from:
>
> * http://www.fabrics-store.com/ and also, various discount home-dec
stores.
> One of my projects is to stencil some linen drapes.
>
> And silks, from:
>
> * http://www.silkbaron.com
>
> * http://www.hyenaproductions.com/
>
> * And an eBay seller with three ID

Re: [h-cost] Curtains for old houses

[Sharon Collier]

Around here, we have an email group called Next Door. There may be one in
your area. Also, have you checked Craigslist?  If you want, I can put out a
request for aluminum patio furniture. (I'm in Redwood City, have friends who
live in Sacramento.) Also, IKEA has some metal furniture that you might
find acceptable. Table and 2 chairs for$99. A stand-in, maybe until you find
the stuff you really like.
Sharon C. 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 7:59 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Curtains for old houses

Looking for lace curtains for our Sacramento house (which we are decorating
in Arts & Crafts style) has been a pain in the tail because lace curtains
are very much out of style.  I was unable to find any cotton lace drapery
fabric with an overall, antique-looking pattern. And very little lace fabric
at all, just sheers with modern patterns that scream synthetic.

However, I've found a number of pricey but authentic-looking sources for
old-house curtains:

* J. R. Burrows, as previously suggested on this list
http://www.burrows.com/lace.html

* Olde Worlde Lace
http://www.oldeworldelace.com/

* London Lace
http://www.londonlace.com/

* Albert Rackstand Lace on Etsy
https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlbertRackstandLace?section_id=16135864=shopse
ction_leftnav_9

In addition I recommend trolling eBay and Etsy for:

* Quaker Lace curtains. A hugely popular 20th-century brand, so you can
still find 100% or at least 75% cotton lace curtains for sale in their
original packages.

* Quaker Lace tablecloths. Denser laces but usable, and often available for
low prices.  Try and stay away from the thicker ones made in the 1960s.

* Knotted lace tablecloths.  Also known as darned net, lacis, and sellers
may even call it crochet or bobbin lace or still other terms. 
Whatever:  These are 100% natural fiber, sturdy, and very handsome. They
probably date from the 1940s, give or take some years. Patterns can be
either geometric or flowing.  I don't like the geometric ones as much, but
it's easier to find matching tablecloths in the geometric patterns.

The difficulty is finding two tablecloths with the same pattern and
especially, in *exactly the same shade of white or off-white*. But for rooms
with single windows, the tablecloth solution can be a handsome and
economical way to go.

For non-lace fabric, I recommend Restoration Fabrics and Trims:

*
http://www.restorationfabricsandtrims.com/store.html#ecwid:category=194227
ode=category=0=normal

Also plain linens available from:

* http://www.fabrics-store.com/ and also, various discount home-dec stores.
One of my projects is to stencil some linen drapes.

And silks, from:

* http://www.silkbaron.com

* http://www.hyenaproductions.com/

* And an eBay seller with three IDs:  brocadeandmore, exclusive_silks, and
pure_silks.

And, um, I'm using some tone-on-tone Renaissance brocade from my fabric
stash.  Look, the Victorians would have done it!

Now I'm beating my brains out over finding the patio furniture. 
Specifically a dining set with a round table, and garden benches. There is a
brand called Oakland Living that has great-looking, other-metal-colored
aluminum pieces that imitate wrought iron. 
Unfortunately, they have terrible reviews for quality. I'm not a fan of teak
(or any other wood) for outdoors. When new it looks gorgeous, but it
involves too much upkeep if you want it to stay gorgeous. Wrought iron
rusts, and plastic/resin wicker might work but might blow over. 
Aluminum seems like a good idea but all I see is relentlessly modern in
style. I'm also not a fan of super-deep or super-low seats in any material.

Any suggestions?

Fran
Lavolta Press
Books on historic clothing
www.lavoltapress.com
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Re: [h-cost] searching for 1887 misses' fashion illustrations

[Sharon Collier]

Have you tried school group photos? I know most are front facing, posed
shots, but you could extrapolate the backs from knowing what the front
looked like. A girls school might have photos dating back that far.
Sharon C. 
-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Elena House
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2016 12:38 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] searching for 1887 misses' fashion illustrations

Okay, I have an overly specific search challenge/request for the list!  I'm
looking for illustrations (of any sort, as long as they're primary or really
really accurate secondary sources) of what upper middle class girls of 9,
15, and 19 years old would wear in the summer of 1887 as they're boarding a
train for a ride across the US.  To be even MORE specific (and this and the
train aspect are where I've had trouble with my own searches so far) I'm
looking for rear, side, and 3/4 rear views.  The 1880s is decidedly not my
period--can anyone help me?

(This is for a book cover illustration, and okay, period accuracy isn't
strictly speaking a requirement, because maybe .05% of readers would catch
any mistakes, but darn it, _I'd_ know!  You know?)

-E House
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Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

[Sharon Collier]

Very interesting article, Ann! Thanks!
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 
Behalf Of annbw...@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2015 6:39 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

I have been getting the monthly reminders from indra.com, but I have to admit I 
don't read them.


I also have something to share--this is based on the paper I gave at the Jane 
Austen Society of North America's annual general meeting in Louisville in 
October.



http://www.jasna.org/persuasions/on-line/vol36no1/wass.html


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Robin Netherton 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Thu, Dec 17, 2015 9:33 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

I'm here -- but my first post saying so (from an alternate address by mistake) 
was rejected.On 12/17/2015 12:17 AM, Carol Kocian wrote:> Hi all,>> Is 
h-costume still going? I’m trying to change my e-mail address for it, but the 
link below does not work.>> Thanks!> -Carol> 
___>> h-costume mailing list>> 
h-costume@mail.indra.com>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>>> 
___> h-costume mailing list> 
h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>-- 
Robin NethertonEditor, Medieval Clothing and Textilesrobin@netherton.netvoice: 
(314) 439-1222Life is just a bowl of 
queries.___h-costume mailing 
listh-costume@mail.indra.comhttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

[Sharon Collier]

I just finished a new dress for Dickens Fair, which ends this weekend. I bought 
it partially made, from a friend, and fitted and embellished it. 
Sharon

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 
Behalf Of aqua...@patriot.net
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2015 9:36 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

You're welcome!

I suppose people could say what they are working on.

Right now I'm working on switching things to a new e-mail address. :-)

So, the url below doesn't do anything. I suppose I could try the sub and unsub 
options. Does anyone have the info for that?

I tried "help" but the message bounced.

Thanks!
-Carol



> Thanks for letting me know you are all here.
> Monica Spence
>
> -Original Message-
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] 
> On Behalf Of Robin Netherton
> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2015 9:31 AM
> To: Historical Costume 
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?
>
> I'm here -- but my first post saying so (from an alternate address by
> mistake) was rejected.
>
>
> On 12/17/2015 12:17 AM, Carol Kocian wrote:
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Is h-costume still going? I’m trying to change my e-mail address 
>> for it, but the link below does not work.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> -Carol
>>
>>
>>
>>> ___
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>> ___
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> --
> Robin Netherton
> Editor, Medieval Clothing and Textiles ro...@netherton.net
> voice: (314) 439-1222
> Life is just a bowl of queries.
>
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

[Sharon Collier]

What if you lined them? That's what I do with my drapes; the lining takes the 
UV beating, not my fashion fabric. 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2015 11:27 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

I've heard of Spoonflower many times, and I'm staying firmly away from it. 
Their fabrics are not supposed to be very fast and some windows get a lot of 
sun. After going to all this trouble I want the drapes to last as many years as 
possible. Anyway, I don't want printed cotton drapes unless they are something 
really nice like Liberty home-dec.

Fran
Lavolta Press
www.lavoltapress.com


On 12/17/2015 11:15 AM, Sharon Collier wrote:
> Have you heard of www.spoonflower.com?
> It's a site where you can design your own fabric or choose from thousands of 
> others designed by others.
> After you find your design, you can choose to have it made in one of over a 
> dozen fabrics. So you could have matching drapes and upholstery, for example.
> Sharon C.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] 
> On Behalf Of Lavolta Press
> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2015 10:57 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?
>
> I'm still here and have been since h-costume started.  I am not sewing any 
> garments because I have to make all the drapes for a 5,000-square-foot house 
> my husband and I bought in June and have not moved into yet. (Not to mention 
> a lot of time-consuming stuff like picking out paint colors and Arts & Crafts 
> cabinet knobs.) Not a fixer-upper but lots of work being done, like complete 
> kitchen remodeling, installing hardwood floors in several rooms that did not 
> have them already, and painting. Then the landscaping needed work too.
> Everything takes longer than it was supposed to.
>
> The house is a 1940s Colonial Revival and we are furnishing it combined Arts 
> & Crafts/Art Nouveau style. Many features like oak flooring and a fireplace 
> with green tile carry over quite well. The sellers took all the window 
> coverings, which we probably wouldn't have liked anyway.
> Some of the windows are fairly strange sizes and we ordered historic 
> reproduction custom-made roller shades for most of them. Which BTW turned out 
> not to cost any more than most of the ready-made shades I looked at, and 
> they're actually cotton instead of polyester.
>
> The challenge I am facing is getting the fabric for the drapes.  It seems I 
> want a fairly flat look, probably 1 1/2 times fullness. Since this is not a 
> bungalow, I figured a general-Victorian-look brocade is OK, and I have a lot 
> of that in my stash, though in many cases not enough for a window. And I had 
> some embroidered linen I bought online that turned out to have motifs too 
> large for clothes. For three rooms that only have one window, what with only 
> 1 1/2 times fullness I managed to squeeze three windows' worth of drapes out 
> of stash fabric.
>
> The rest of the fabric is proving to be a pain to find. So if anyone knows 
> where to buy repro Arts & Crafts or Art Nouveau drapery fabric in quantities 
> up to 18 yards for a single room, I'd LOVE to know.  It seems I can use a 
> textured fabric such as dupioni or linen (preferably stenciled linen) if I 
> have to, but I wanted to furnish some rooms with Art Nouveau brocades.
>
> Have to say I think the average "bungalow" decorating book (trendier than 
> just Arts & Crafts) is somewhat misleading on recommending no drapes at all 
> or maybe only sheer drapes if you must have something.
> The few period pictures mostly show the usual set of lace drapes, outer 
> drapes, sometimes a valance as well. The Victorians and Edwardians didn't 
> want the sun full on their faces at dawn, or the neighbors peering into their 
> windows, any more than we do.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> Books of historic clothing patterns
> www.lavoltapress.com
>
>
>
> On 12/17/2015 9:36 AM, aqua...@patriot.net wrote:
>> You're welcome!
>>
>> I suppose people could say what they are working on.
>>
>> Right now I'm working on switching things to a new e-mail address. 
>> :-)
>>
>> So, the url below doesn't do anything. I suppose I could try the sub 
>> and unsub options. Does anyone have the info for that?
>>
>> I tried "help" but the message bounced.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> -Carol
>>
>>
>>
>>> Thanks for letting me know you are all here.
>>> Monica Spence
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: h-co

Re: [h-cost] Mouse-proof underwear

[Sharon Collier]

Maybe bloomers tied closed at the bottom so mice couldn't run up her legs?
I'd have also gotten a cat. 
;-)

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Catherine Walton
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2015 2:42 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mouse-proof underwear

On 17/12/2015 22:28, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> Ah, I understand now.  I thought that "mouse-proof" underwear was 
> underwear that wouldn't be eaten by mice.  But apparently Miss 
> Browning's underwear were meant to mouse-proof the wearer.

Oh - sorry:  I missed the ambiguity.
I hope I haven't disappointed too many people?
Catherine.
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Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

[Sharon Collier]

Have you heard of www.spoonflower.com?
It's a site where you can design your own fabric or choose from thousands of 
others designed by others. 
After you find your design, you can choose to have it made in one of over a 
dozen fabrics. So you could have matching drapes and upholstery, for example. 
Sharon C. 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2015 10:57 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

I'm still here and have been since h-costume started.  I am not sewing any 
garments because I have to make all the drapes for a 5,000-square-foot house my 
husband and I bought in June and have not moved into yet. (Not to mention a lot 
of time-consuming stuff like picking out paint colors and Arts & Crafts cabinet 
knobs.) Not a fixer-upper but lots of work being done, like complete kitchen 
remodeling, installing hardwood floors in several rooms that did not have them 
already, and painting. Then the landscaping needed work too. 
Everything takes longer than it was supposed to.

The house is a 1940s Colonial Revival and we are furnishing it combined Arts & 
Crafts/Art Nouveau style. Many features like oak flooring and a fireplace with 
green tile carry over quite well. The sellers took all the window coverings, 
which we probably wouldn't have liked anyway.  
Some of the windows are fairly strange sizes and we ordered historic 
reproduction custom-made roller shades for most of them. Which BTW turned out 
not to cost any more than most of the ready-made shades I looked at, and 
they're actually cotton instead of polyester.

The challenge I am facing is getting the fabric for the drapes.  It seems I 
want a fairly flat look, probably 1 1/2 times fullness. Since this is not a 
bungalow, I figured a general-Victorian-look brocade is OK, and I have a lot of 
that in my stash, though in many cases not enough for a window. And I had some 
embroidered linen I bought online that turned out to have motifs too large for 
clothes. For three rooms that only have one window, what with only 1 1/2 times 
fullness I managed to squeeze three windows' worth of drapes out of stash 
fabric.

The rest of the fabric is proving to be a pain to find. So if anyone knows 
where to buy repro Arts & Crafts or Art Nouveau drapery fabric in quantities up 
to 18 yards for a single room, I'd LOVE to know.  It seems I can use a textured 
fabric such as dupioni or linen (preferably stenciled linen) if I have to, but 
I wanted to furnish some rooms with Art Nouveau brocades.

Have to say I think the average "bungalow" decorating book (trendier than just 
Arts & Crafts) is somewhat misleading on recommending no drapes at all or maybe 
only sheer drapes if you must have something.  
The few period pictures mostly show the usual set of lace drapes, outer drapes, 
sometimes a valance as well. The Victorians and Edwardians didn't want the sun 
full on their faces at dawn, or the neighbors peering into their windows, any 
more than we do.

Fran
Lavolta Press
Books of historic clothing patterns
www.lavoltapress.com



On 12/17/2015 9:36 AM, aqua...@patriot.net wrote:
> You're welcome!
>
> I suppose people could say what they are working on.
>
> Right now I'm working on switching things to a new e-mail address. :-)
>
> So, the url below doesn't do anything. I suppose I could try the sub and
> unsub options. Does anyone have the info for that?
>
> I tried "help" but the message bounced.
>
> Thanks!
> -Carol
>
>
>
>> Thanks for letting me know you are all here.
>> Monica Spence
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
>> Behalf Of Robin Netherton
>> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2015 9:31 AM
>> To: Historical Costume 
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?
>>
>> I'm here -- but my first post saying so (from an alternate address by
>> mistake) was rejected.
>>
>>
>> On 12/17/2015 12:17 AM, Carol Kocian wrote:
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> Is h-costume still going? I’m trying to change my e-mail address for
>>> it, but the link below does not work.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>> -Carol
>>>
>>>
>>>
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>> ___
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>
>> --
>> Robin Netherton
>> Editor, Medieval Clothing and Textiles
>> ro...@netherton.net
>> voice: (314) 439-1222
>> Life is just a bowl of queries.
>>
>> ___
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>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>> h-costume mailing list
>> 

Re: [h-cost] Stange detail on early 1900's shirtwaists - help?

[Sharon Collier]

Also, I have a couple of buckles from my great aunts; they are simple 
rectangles, with an additional vertical bar, which would work perfectly with 
those shorter ties. They were in the box of lace, insertion lace trim, etc. 
that I got from my great aunts, so right era.
Sharon

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 
Behalf Of WorkroomButtons.com
Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2015 1:50 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stange detail on early 1900's shirtwaists - help?

Isabella... this is perfect!  Thanks so much!  Exactly the right era, and 
yes... I imagine that particular detail would make laundry much easier for 
students, or perhaps for the underpaid ladies who did it for them. :-(

Instead of a buckle, as Sharon suggested, perhaps a straight pin was used to 
fasten the front ties?
 And... now that the mystery of the front ties has been solved, thanks to Fran, 
Sharon, and Isabella... anyone care to venture a guess as to the function of 
the inner (longer) ties?
-Dede
 
 From: . . lizmaek...@hotmail.com
 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com h-costume@mail.indra.com 
 Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2015 3:00 PM
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stange detail on early 1900's shirtwaists - help?
   
Hello,
I get this in digest form so I apologize if anything I say is repetitive of 
something someone has already posted.  There is a pattern for a similar blouse 
in 1906 in the Delineator: 
https://books.google.com/books?id=tGxJAQAAMAAJlpg=PA1177ots=D7FhGj19hwdq=The%20Delineator%2C%20June%201906pg=PA646#v=onepageq=shirtwaistf=false
The reason it might have the overbelt and not be permanently gathered in the 
front is shown in a book from 1911:  

http://chestofbooks.com/crafts/needlework/Text-Book-On-Domestic-Art/Shirt-Waist.html#.Vc-L2rTy8y5
Basically, it was because it was much easier to launder for the students in the 
era before washing machines.  :-)  You can use the inner belt to keep the 
shirtwaist from moving around and the outer belt is used to keep the 
pleats/gathers in place while you are wearing it.  The outer belt would be 
hidden by the skirt and yet another belt.
Hope that helps!
Sincerely,Isabellahttp://www.extantgowns.com 
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Re: [h-cost] Stange detail on early 1900's shirtwaists - help?

[Sharon Collier]

The longer ties could have been to tie the blouse in the right spot, maybe tied 
and tucked under the front of the corset to prevent twisting of the blouse? I 
know that in Elizabethan fashion, the bum roll was often tied and the ties 
tucked under the front of the corset for just that purpose. 
Sharon

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 
Behalf Of WorkroomButtons.com
Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2015 1:50 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stange detail on early 1900's shirtwaists - help?

Isabella... this is perfect!  Thanks so much!  Exactly the right era, and 
yes... I imagine that particular detail would make laundry much easier for 
students, or perhaps for the underpaid ladies who did it for them. :-(

Instead of a buckle, as Sharon suggested, perhaps a straight pin was used to 
fasten the front ties?
 And... now that the mystery of the front ties has been solved, thanks to Fran, 
Sharon, and Isabella... anyone care to venture a guess as to the function of 
the inner (longer) ties?
-Dede
 
 From: . . lizmaek...@hotmail.com
 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com h-costume@mail.indra.com 
 Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2015 3:00 PM
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stange detail on early 1900's shirtwaists - help?
   
Hello,
I get this in digest form so I apologize if anything I say is repetitive of 
something someone has already posted.  There is a pattern for a similar blouse 
in 1906 in the Delineator: 
https://books.google.com/books?id=tGxJAQAAMAAJlpg=PA1177ots=D7FhGj19hwdq=The%20Delineator%2C%20June%201906pg=PA646#v=onepageq=shirtwaistf=false
The reason it might have the overbelt and not be permanently gathered in the 
front is shown in a book from 1911:  

http://chestofbooks.com/crafts/needlework/Text-Book-On-Domestic-Art/Shirt-Waist.html#.Vc-L2rTy8y5
Basically, it was because it was much easier to launder for the students in the 
era before washing machines.  :-)  You can use the inner belt to keep the 
shirtwaist from moving around and the outer belt is used to keep the 
pleats/gathers in place while you are wearing it.  The outer belt would be 
hidden by the skirt and yet another belt.
Hope that helps!
Sincerely,Isabellahttp://www.extantgowns.com 
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Re: [h-cost] Stange detail on early 1900's shirtwaists - help?

[Sharon Collier]

If the blouse was worn on the outside of the skirt, and as Fran said, the ties 
came from back to front, perhaps instead of tying (which takes quite a bit of 
fabric/length), they were buckled--a simple buckle where you just weave the 
ties in and out. Maybe the inside ties were to actually hold the blouse down/in 
place, while the outside, shorter ones would be worn with a buckle for show. 
Sharon C. 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 
Behalf Of WorkroomButtons.com
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 8:21 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Stange detail on early 1900's shirtwaists - help?

We've encountered a puzzling detail present on several early 1900's shirtwaists 
at the Reed Homestead (THS Clothing Collection).  One example can be seen here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/workroombuttons/albums/72157657235770901

Please be sure to scroll down a bit and read the descriptions below the photos.
1.  What is the function of the ties?  Front ties are too short to be tied into 
a back bow, and inside ties...?2.  Which is the front side of the shirtwaist:  
pleats or buttons?

We're really stuck here!  Can anyone help us out?  Thanks!
Sincerely,Dede O'Hair _ West Village Studio 
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Re: [h-cost] medieval france question

[Sharon Collier]

Tights, a loose robe or dress-belted, and a biggins or stocking cap with the
end wound around your head would work well.  Maybe a cloak on top of that. 
Sharon C. 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of scourney
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2015 12:05 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] medieval france question

Hi,
I'm still here.  I'm also on facebook, but a bit disenchanted with it so
mostly read other people's drama.

I'm taking a new kind of history class this quarter - it's called reacting
history. The professor picks a few related scenerios, assigns characters,
and we interact as if we are those people.  Costumes get you extra points. 
for the first one I pulled something out of the closet, but for this one I'm
not so sure what is correct.  Granted I could show up in repurposed goodwill
clothes and it'd be OK, but I'd like to do better. The time and place is
1302 France - and the kicker is that I'm roleplaying an older man.  I don't
have time to do the normal indepth research I do before making something ( I
need tomorrow, not in a month), and I'm not overly familar with male
clothing.  Any suggestions on where to start?. Would the greenlander outfits
be appropriate?

thanks,
Susan Courney 

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Re: [h-cost] Pomona Green: vote now!

[Sharon Collier]

...the elusiveness of keeping that color. 
This is exactly the problem I have. My sage green sleeves and forepart have
faded to a yellow-ish green. Not as nice a color as I originally had. 
Sharon C. 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Hope Greenberg
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2015 5:05 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pomona Green: vote now!


Hello -

Thank you all for your contributions to the green fabric vote discussion! I
thought it might be fun to approach it from a different angle as well just
to see what would come of it. I pulled 30 clips that included greens from
some fashion plates, extant garment links, and a few paintings. They are now
in a Word doc oraganized as a sort of game. 
The first page has the collection in chronological order but the second has
them slapped on the page as free-floating objects so they can be dragged
around. I had a couple people here try moving them around in what seemed
like, to them, logical groupings. All agreed that they seemed to fall into 3
categories: emerald (or blue-ish), olive, grassy. 
The version attached here is not particularly sorted and it has five clips
at the top of the second page that actually included the name pomona in
their descriptions.

If you would like to play the 'game' you can find the doc at:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/greens/greens.docx

It is no wonder the search for green is a challenge. I've been reading two
fascinating books that have been useful. The first is about the cultural
aspects of the color while the second has more technical information. Highly
recommended:

1) Pastoureau, Michel. Green: The History of a Color (Princeton: 
Princeton University Press, 2014) - Examining the evolving place of green
in art, clothes, literature, religion, science, and everyday life, Michel
Pastoreau traces how culture has profoundly changed the perception and
meaning of the color over millennia. (He has previously published books on
blue and black.)

2) Greene, Susan W. Wearable Prints, 1760-1860: History, Materials and
Mechanics (Kent, Ohio: Kent State University Press, 2014) - a fantastic and
monumental book on printing and dyeing fabric throughout this time period.
568 pp. and over 1600 color images. (And the section on green is very small
and very confusing due to the challenges related to the difficulty in
getting, and elusiveness of keeping, that color!)

Enjoy!

- Hope
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[h-cost] Pomona green

[Sharon Collier]

I think it's difficult to find Pomona green because it probably was a
color made with arsenic. I saw a picture of a gown in a museum and it was
EXACTLY the shade of green I love! But it was dyed with arsenic. I would
have died of arsenic poisoning, I'm sure, as I adore that color. 

Sharon C. 

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[h-cost] Anyone here?

[Sharon Collier]

Hi, I haven't been getting any messages lately, until today-I got only one.
Is the list especially quiet?

Sharon Collier

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Re: [h-cost] The shape of Chardin's girl with shuttlecock

[Sharon Collier]

She is wearing a corset. The cone shape is the shape that corsets were in the 
1700's.  Unlike Victorian corsets, which nipped in the waist and created a 
curvy shape, the ideal look at this time was a cone shape. Tudor and 
Elizabethan corsets also created the cone shape.
To see a modern version and how it was worn, watch the movie The Three 
Musketers, the one made in the 1970's. In it, Milady is seducing D'Artagnan. 
She removes her gown and underneath, she is wearing a corset with a busk a 
wooden triangular piece to keep the front stiff. That slips out. 
Sharon C. 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 
Behalf Of Betty Cooper
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2014 7:08 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] The shape of Chardin's girl with shuttlecock

Hello



In interested in the painting of “girl with shuttlecock” by the French artist - 
 Jean-Baptiste-Siméon Chardin (1699 – 1779).  There are several examples on the 
web, try this one here



http://www.wikiart.org/en/jean-baptiste-simeon-chardin/girl-with-racket-and-shuttlecock#supersized-artistPaintings-268470




He probably painted the girl in 1740 and he was famous for painting still life 
and “realistic” home scenes.



I don’t know how old the girl is (12? Years)  but she really has a shape that 
we don’t find today.



I have tried, VERY unscientifically, to recreate the image by sitting my 10 
year old granddaughter in the same position holding a fly swat instead of a 
racket.  We tried to add a hat something like the one in the picture.  Even 
after persuading dear gd to sit very straight and to pull her shoulders back we 
did not get anything like the look or shape of the girl in the painting.



Either the Chardin girl’s skeleton has been deformed by tight stays, or the 
painter is employing artistic licence to please the person paying for the 
portrait.



I’m interested in how people with more costume knowledge than me see the girl 
the painting.



B
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Re: [h-cost] Barge's cement

[Sharon Collier]

Since the real stuff is nasty to work with and since this is just for
looks , why not try Gorilla glue or regular heavy duty white glue? 
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Marjorie Wilser
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2014 11:33 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Barge's cement

So I have a repair project which is only marginally costume-y.

However. It is a cheapie modern trunk made to look old with vinyl trim. The
trim is stitched and then glued down. Yeah. Right. But it's coming up all
over and looks horrible. I still like the little trunk and want to make it
shipshape again.

In examining the offerings on Amazon, I find (link below)
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dapsfield-keywor
ds=barge%27s+cement

Too many packages to make an intelligent choice from. All claim to be
Barge's cement.

So, users of Barge's for shoemaking and other wonders- which is my best bet,
please?

Many thanks!

==Marjorie Wilser


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Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!

[Sharon Collier]

Not knowing there was such a thing as brim wire, I used florist wire from
the craft store. Much cheaper. 
Sharon C. 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Marjorie Wilser
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2014 5:45 PM
To: H-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Brim wire!

I'm looking for brim wire and not having a whole lotta luck.

Sources, anybody? The best I can find so far is Farthingales in Canada..
slower and with duty. I'm in the US. A millinery company wants a minimum
order of $76- their low price. Right.

I looked for Janet Wilson Anderson's Raiments/ AlterYears but can't find a
presence on the web??

I need 3 yd minimum, with crimpers/joiners for ends.

Thanks, List!

==Marjorie


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Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!

[Sharon Collier]

You could always twist 2 or 3 together.
S.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Marjorie Wilser
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2014 7:04 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!

Thanks, Sharon!  I looked at florist wire but decided for the current
application it was much too lightweight!

On May 9, 2014, at 1:22 AM, Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com wrote:

 Not knowing there was such a thing as brim wire, I used florist wire 
 from the craft store. Much cheaper.
 Sharon C. 


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Re: [h-cost] gauging for gathers?

[Sharon Collier]

I used 3 54 widths of fabric for my skirt. I made cartridge pleats with
1/4 gingham for spacing. I went up 3, down 3 for the pleats, (so each pleat
was 6 1/4 squares). My waist is about 30. And I did the middle first, then
the middle of that, etc. Until I could eyeball the rest. 
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Marjorie Wilser
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2014 8:19 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] gauging for gathers?

Thanks to you both!!

a. Not upper class, more middling.
b. pleats are fine by me.
c. have at least 4x waist.
d. allowing for bum roll

Saw fabric (in the form of a pair of draperies) in a thrift store. Hy'ing my
buns back there tomorrow to pick them up.
Too bad though- cartridge pleating/gauging is a really pretty look!

==Marjorie 

On Mar 12, 2014, at 12:38 AM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have been thinking about this since your message came through a few 
 hours ago, trying to come up with a source to prove or disprove the 
 use of gathers in 1550 to 1600. (One of the things I adore about this 
 list is that folks site documentation to back up opinions.) However, 
 I'm drawing a blank too, since most of our existing examples show 
 those of wealth, layered in seriously significant amounts of yardage.
 
 What class of gown are you working on?
 
 It's not a leap to assume that the lower classes couldn't afford the 
 yardage to do proper regular pleats, box pleats or cartridge pleats, 
 and therefore did indeed gather out of necessity. For example, if one 
 only had enough yardage to make a skirt that was 5 inches wider than 
 the hip measurement, 5 inches would not pleat evenly all the way 
 around. To evenly space the pleats and put them all the way around 
 without major gaps between them, the fabric must be 1.5 times the 
 waist measurement, at minimum, right? (And this doesn't even take into 
 account bum rolls.)
 
 It's not like gathering wasn't a new skill in that time period...by 
 that era, people had been manipulating fabric with that technique for 
 a long, long time.
 
 If you're not aiming for upper class, I say go for it.
 
 If you are aiming for upper class, and are low on fabric, maybe a 
 Spanish surcoat would work for the amount of fabric you have...?
 
 Or are you just trying to get out of making pleats?? *wink*
 
 'Bella
 
 On Tue, Mar 11, 2014 at 9:24 PM, Elizabeth Jones  
 elizabethrjones2...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I can't think of any Elizabethan images that show pleats as small as 
 those in mid 19th century skirts (which is the context in which I 
 have previously heard the term gauging) Cartridge pleats are one of 
 the types of pleats used but judging by portraits I wouldn't put in 
 pleats any smaller than 1 inch wide (i.e.I mean 1 inch as the section 
 showing on top of the pleat not the total amount of fabric taken up 
 by the
 pleat) for an Elizabethan skirt.
 Elizabeth
 
 On Wed, Mar 12, 2014 at 1:58 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
 wrote:
 Just curious. . . I don't have a good Elizabethan book to hand.
 
 In period, is gauging/gathering appropriate for a skirt?  Many 
 thanks! I
 can do it. . . but little tucks are easier. :)

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Re: [h-cost] friend going to Italy

[Sharon Collier]

There is a FABULOUS trim shop in Florence. They actually have 2 locations,
at least they did in 2002, when I went. Passamaneria Toscana, Piazza San
Lorenzo,12r, is the original store (since the 1950's).
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Katy Bishop
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2014 9:47 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] friend going to Italy

I have a friend who is travelling to Italy next month, to Florence, Balzano,
Rome and Genoa, with a very brief visit to Venice and Naples too.

Doas anyone have any suggestions of museums or shopping for
costume/textile/lace related things not to miss?

I'm working on my wish list of what she should look for for me--living
vicariously through my friend's travel...

Katy

--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Re: [h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern

[Sharon Collier]

You didn't attach the file.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sybella
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 5:47 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern

Normally, I can look at a pattern and have a clear idea of how flat pieces
fit together and follow a shape, what is cut on the fold, how many to cut,
etc. But with this one, I'm stumped. It's a tricky monkey puzzle!

From the looks of the pattern text, you cut one of each piece but I can't
see how that makes a cap. I'm hoping what I don't understand of the text
will shed light on that.

Can someone please translate the directions for me? Please? (Thanks to
studying Spanish, I can make out some of this but not enough. And since it's
an image, I can't just paste the text into an online translator...I would
guess that it will take a experienced sewer's eye to translate it
correctly.)

Thank you!
'Bella

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Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?

[Sharon Collier]

Lands' End has pants that sit at the waist.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of annbw...@aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 06, 2014 2:37 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?

I actually have one. Bought a decent dress at a thrift store for summer
wear, but it is just a little low in front, so I bought one of the knit
garments  with spaghetti straps. It has a shelf bra, too--remember those
from the '70s?  And yes, my much younger co-workers call it a cami. BTW, it
is also VERY long,  so one could wear it with the extremely low-slung pants
that still seem to be in  vogue. That is one style that could go away, IMHO.
Hard for us mature women to  find pants that sit decently at the waist.
 
Ann Wass
 
 
In a message dated 1/6/2014 2:06:25 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
sfsh...@gmail.com writes:

LOL.  This is definitely an age thing, I think. I have two daughters, ages
18  and 21. For years they've been calling that garment a cami or a camisole
and it is not an undergarment, though it is often worn as a layer, but a
layer that is exposed, either partly or entirely. And, in hot weather, it
is worn alone.

Neither of my daughters will wear a tank top, with  cut-on shoulders.


On 1/5/14, 9:28 PM, Sybella wrote:
 Hm. In  my opinion, a camisole (or cami) is strictly an undergarment  
 regardless of modern vernacular. LOL!

 Tank tops can be  delicate in style...I would say what the OP is
describing
 would be  using the correct name if she called it a tank top. One 
 could
say
  tank top with spaghetti straps, maybe.

 Did you see the wiki  page on this? I just looked it up. Whoever wrote 
 it also mentions  camisole. There are pictures at the bottom of the 
 page, with all the  variations that fall under tank tops.

  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sleeveless_shirt




  On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 8:30 PM, Sharon Zakhour sfsh...@gmail.com
wrote:

 cami or  camisole



 On 1/5/14, 8:27 PM,  Marjorie Wilser wrote:

 Hi  folks,

 I rarely wear sleeveless tops myself,  so I'm waaay out of the loop 
about
 a popular item of modern  summer clothing for women.

 What IS the little  knit top with tiny straps called, nowadays? I think 
of
 a  tank as sleeveless with wider shoulder straps. The skinny-strapped 
 ones
 I think of as a chemise, but that isn't the name I'm  looking for 
here.

 So what's the modern name  for it, please? :)

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Re: [h-cost] mildew stains

[Sharon Collier]

I've also heard that after your preferred method of cleaning, set the item
in the sun.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Katy Bishop
Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2013 10:13 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] mildew stains

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get mildew stains out of white
cotton? I have a favorite white cotton (or maybe linen and cotton) Victorian
repro. blouse that was left damp and now it's mildew stained.
 Makes me so sad.

Katy

--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Re: [h-cost] catafitti

[Sharon Collier]

Nice to know!
S

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of snsp...@aol.com
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2013 2:58 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] catafitti

My apologies, everyone.  Catafitti is of Greek derivation and refers to a
kind of silk of a certain color.  

Nancy
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Re: [h-cost] medieval and Renaissance Italian

[Sharon Collier]

How is it used? Is it in  a sentence? Or is it in a description of
something?
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of snsp...@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 1:56 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com; medtc-disc...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [h-cost] medieval and Renaissance Italian

We've come across a word in the Latin inventories that I mentioned early
which came to Sicily from Tunisia which absolutely no one can figure out.  I
am really thinking there must be an Italian connection with this word and
would like to throw myself on the mercy of anyone who is really into
medieval and Renaissance Italian (clothing, language, whatever).

The word is CATAFITTI, but, of course, it could come in a variety of
spellings.

My great thanks if anyone is able to help.

Nancy
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Re: [h-cost] medieval and Renaissance Italian

[Sharon Collier]

In Sicilian, fitta is a noun, meaning hurt. Sicilian and Italian are often
VERY different. Sicilian has a lot of Greek in it. 
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of snsp...@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 1:56 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com; medtc-disc...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [h-cost] medieval and Renaissance Italian

We've come across a word in the Latin inventories that I mentioned early
which came to Sicily from Tunisia which absolutely no one can figure out.  I
am really thinking there must be an Italian connection with this word and
would like to throw myself on the mercy of anyone who is really into
medieval and Renaissance Italian (clothing, language, whatever).

The word is CATAFITTI, but, of course, it could come in a variety of
spellings.

My great thanks if anyone is able to help.

Nancy
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Re: [h-cost] medieval and Renaissance Italian

[Sharon Collier]

I found a site with Sicilian/ Italian translations. If you need further
help, he has an email.
art...@dieli.net
Good luck and if you find out what it means, post here please. I'm curious.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of snsp...@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 1:56 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com; medtc-disc...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [h-cost] medieval and Renaissance Italian

We've come across a word in the Latin inventories that I mentioned early
which came to Sicily from Tunisia which absolutely no one can figure out.  I
am really thinking there must be an Italian connection with this word and
would like to throw myself on the mercy of anyone who is really into
medieval and Renaissance Italian (clothing, language, whatever).

The word is CATAFITTI, but, of course, it could come in a variety of
spellings.

My great thanks if anyone is able to help.

Nancy
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Re: [h-cost] medieval and Renaissance Italian

[Sharon Collier]

Here it is:
http://www.dieli.net/SicilyPage/SicilianLanguage/Vocabulary.html

Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of RC Sharp
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 4:09 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval and Renaissance Italian

Sharon - Can you post the site's URL, please?

Thank you!
Kate

- Original Message - 
From: Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com


I found a site with Sicilian/ Italian translations. If you need further
 help, he has an email.
 art...@dieli.net
 Good luck and if you find out what it means, post here please. I'm
curious.
 Sharon C.

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Re: [h-cost] 1919 hairstyle

[Sharon Collier]

Look at Doctor Zhivago. Julie Christie's hair is pure 1960's, which spoils
the look.  
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Data-Samak
Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2013 6:11 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1919 hairstyle

A friend who has worked in costumed film pieces told me to look at the
extras in a film to see authenticity.  The extras are often actual
re-enactors. The star usually refuses to wear authentic hairstyles and
they movie makers give in to their vanity.

I recall a B ( or maybe C) budget movie where Angie Dickinson played a
Civil War woman.  Her clothing was gorgeous and authentic but her hair was
1980's style. Spoiled the effect for me.

Susan
NJ


On Oct 3, 2013, at 5:54 AM, Kate Bunting wrote:

 Another TV costume drama question...
 In the current BBC series Peaky Blinders (about a criminal gang in 
 Birmingham post-WW1) a prominent female character wears her 
 shoulder-length hair loose.
 http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p01fj945
 This looks far too modern to me. Before short styles came in in the 
 '20s, wouldn't women have put their hair up?
 
 Kate Bunting
 Retired librarian  17th century reenactor 
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Re: [h-cost] about bath towels...

[Sharon Collier]

Lands' End,  expensive, but nice. We got some nice ones at Kohl's, make sure
you check the quality, though. Similar towels in different colors were
different quality. And try Costco.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Patricia Dunham
Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2013 1:36 AM
To: h-costume-indra.com Costume
Subject: [h-cost] about bath towels...

Thanks all for the responses about those velvet terms; much appreciated.

NOW...  we need to replace some bath towels. BUT! where do YOU buy decent
bath towels these days? 

JCPenney used to be our go-to for almost all bed  bath linens, but not so
much these days. They appear to be suffering the breakdown in quality that
so many textiles are. (You can't get PermaPrest bed sheets anymore, sigh,
although I still have a few inherited from my mother, and my own student
housekeeping. I suppose that one is OK, apparently the permaprest process
was an environmental horror that even in the olden days of 30+ years ago
became unsupportable.)

But bath towels, now! I have remnants of a couple of bath sheets that I made
into a house-robe for Mr. Shoulders, possibly 30 years ago. This 100% cotton
fabric is STILL full-surfaced and soft as satin! It's cut into ca. 12
squares and the sides do not ravel or produce bits in the wash. JCP is
certainly not carrying this quality of towelling these days, or for the past
decade at least. Most of the older towels we have (from various sources)
seem to last about 3 years before they go so thin that they dry like
sandpaper, OR start to have the seamed selvages rip out, OR start to tear
away at the flat-weave sections...

So, please! Where do YOU-all buy or order on-line, what brand(s), of bath
towels that STAY full and soft and in one piece, these days?

Thanks much!
chimene et al 



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Re: [h-cost] Period Hair, and Accessories

[Sharon Collier]

So many old movies dressed the characters in period correct clothing, but
left the hair contemporary. The Tudors comes immediately to mind; all
those women with flowing tresses. So wrong!
Sharon C. 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of aqua...@patriot.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2013 1:36 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Period Hair, and Accessories


Funny thing is, if someone wants to give a quick impression or change
identities fast, they put on a hat. When talking to someone, the things you
look at most are at eye-level: face, hat, hair, collar.

So it's odd when someone will take care with other parts of an outfit and
neglect the head, the most obvious part!

-Carol


 An interesting Costume item from the OED, Costume is the whole 
 experience of mind and body...Appearance is only a small part of being 'in
costume'.
 The way you stand, walk, sit, what you are thinking about...all this 
 is necessary to pull yourself backward to Be in the times of your dress!
 Hair, nails, shoes, hatted or not, props...all is necessary to be 
 truely in Costume!


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Re: [h-cost] The White Queen

[Sharon Collier]

This is a problem even with re-enactors. In my opinion, nothing spoils the
look of an outfit as quickly as modern hair. Renaissance hair was parted in
the middle. No bangs. If you have bangs---use hairspray! Sure it doesn't
look like youthat's the point!
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Marjorie Wilser
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 8:05 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The White Queen

Kate,

It's funny. . . you could say the same thing about modern productions of
Victorian and Georgian fashions. Bareheaded women (and gloveless, too! the
horror!) running around outside, neither properly coifed nor hatted. With so
much emphasis on getting the clothing right, why not the hair/hat styles!!

 == Marjorie Wilser (hoping very much that we get The White
Queen over here. . . someday)

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW


On Jul 24, 2013, at 7:55 AM, Kate Bunting wrote:

 As the list seems very quiet at the moment, I thought I'd ask what UK 
 members who know about the Middle Ages think of the costumes in The 
 White Queen? (It's a series based on 3 of Philippa Gregory's novels 
 currently running on the BBC.)

 I know little about mediaeval costume, but my impression is that they 
 have fallen into the same trap as the designers for The Tudors - the 
 women show too much hair and not enough linen. Only a few older women 
 wear headdresses. I assume this is supposed to make the leading ladies 
 more attractive to modern eyes.

 Kate Bunting
 Retired librarian  17th century reenactor.
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Re: [h-cost] The White Queen

[Sharon Collier]

Yes, Dr. Zhivago is a classic example! And I remember a 1950's movie about
Elizabeth that had those pointy bras. Hilarious!
S.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of annbw...@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 8:23 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The White Queen




With so much emphasis on getting the clothing right, why not the hair/hat
styles!!

Not sure of the excuse for the hats. But Edward Maeder, in his book
Hollywood and History, makes the point that hairstyles and makeup are more
likely to be contemporary in historical movies than are the costumes
themselves.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wed, Jul 24, 2013 11:05 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The White Queen


Kate,

It's funny. . . you could say the same thing about modern productions of
Victorian and Georgian fashions. Bareheaded women (and gloveless, too! the
horror!) running around outside, neither properly coifed nor hatted. With so
much emphasis on getting the clothing right, why not the hair/hat styles!!

 == Marjorie Wilser (hoping very much that we get The White
Queen over here. . . someday)

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW


On Jul 24, 2013, at 7:55 AM, Kate Bunting wrote:

 As the list seems very quiet at the moment, I thought I'd ask what UK 
 members who know about the Middle Ages think of the costumes in The 
 White Queen? (It's a series based on 3 of Philippa Gregory's novels 
 currently running on the BBC.)

 I know little about mediaeval costume, but my impression is that they 
 have fallen into the same trap as the designers for The Tudors - the 
 women show too much hair and not enough linen. Only a few older women 
 wear headdresses. I assume this is supposed to make the leading ladies 
 more attractive to modern eyes.

 Kate Bunting
 Retired librarian  17th century reenactor.
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Re: [h-cost] chiffon and Astrida's book

[Sharon Collier]

Do you starch your chiffon before working with it? That may help and after
it's pleated and the pleats are tacked down, you can rinse out the starch.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lauren Walker
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2013 9:08 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] chiffon and Astrida's book

Oh, dear. I was just going to check in to complain that if I EVER finish the
current project it's going to be YEARS before I work with chiffon in 1/12th
scale again, and here I see Astrida has a whole book on how to really *do*
these embellishments where I've been winging it. I'm torn between buying a
copy now and waiting until I'm done with the doll project so I don't feel I
have to tear everything apart and start over. 

I mean, I did just pause to go order the book, because books always win.  

But I'm just about to do the accordion pleats (Godey's calls them
accordion pleats) for the skirt on the gown on the left here: 
http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176890;view=1up;seq=511

for the tiny Grodnerthal doll (I've got the bodice done although there are
things with which I'm not satisfied so it might get done over--the pleating
ended up not crossing above the belt, and I'm not sure I can stand it) and
I'm not sure whether it would help or not to know what I am doing! 

Anyway I'm looking forward to my copy of the book! And to moving on to the
fourth and last outfit in the doll project, which is the one on the right in
this plate:
http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=109
which I'm working in a striped cotton and a sheer wool challis. Which will
have their own problems, but will at least not be this insanely delicate
chiffon.
By the way, Godey's calls the hat a flat leghorn -- looking at some other
hats from the late 1880s, some did not have crowns, or the crown was filled
in with the scarf material. Would any of you hazard a guess about this
particular hat?  

Thanks! I'm going to be so happy to go back to human-sized 18th-century
wools and linens. Fabrics you can't hurt even with a blowtorch and a hammer!
Lauren

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.wal...@comcast.net



On Jun 17, 2013, at 3:39 PM, Terry wrote:

 I'm so excited to say that I just received Astrida Schaeffer's book
 Embellishments: Constructing Victorian Detail.  I mean I JUST got it 
 (5 minutes ago), so I've only had time to thumb through it, but it 
 looks beautiful.  Can't wait to read it!
 
 
 
 Terry Walker
 
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Corded petticoat conundrum

[Sharon Collier]

No, never heard of it, but I want some!
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of WorkroomButtons.com
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 8:20 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Corded petticoat conundrum

Back at the Reed Homestead... the ladies and I are pulling out old
petticoats that have not yet been cataloged.  Nancy Wexford never got to
this pile.

We cleaned a corded petticoat last week.  Date-wise, we're guessing maybe...
1840s -1860s?  That's what I wrote down, anyway.  We have pieces that date
back to the 1820s, so... ?   Originals by Kay claims they worn into the
1880s.

I've read many different tutorials on how to make a corded tutorial.  I
followed Elizabeth Stewart Clark's instructions and made my own.  However,
I've never seen anything like this described anywhere:

The fabric was pre-corded at the factory; the cords were actually woven into
the fabric.  It was woven so that the top was cord-free and could be sewn to
a waistband, and the bottom had the cord in sections so that tucks could be
inserted in the cordless sections to determine finished length.  The fabric
was obviously intended for this purpose.

We're in North Central Mass., so it's conceivable the fabric was made in a
Lowell mill.  Or not.  I really have no clue.

Has anyone ever heard of pre-corded fabric for petticoats?

Dede
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Re: [h-cost] stains on stored linen?

[Sharon Collier]

The pink stains that turned blue did so because of the pH of the soap--acid
vs. alkaline.
 Try soaking/scrubbing by hand with Spray and Wash, or Zout or one of those
stain remover products. Let it line dry, so as not to set the stains in the
heat of the dryer.  Or make a paste of Oxy-Clean powder and water and let it
sit on the stain a while before washing. 
If all else fails, try a dilute squirt of regular bleach. Let it sit for a
couple of minutes only, then rinse out.  I once got set in blood out this
way.
Sharon C.


-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Patricia Dunham
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2013 8:28 PM
To: h-costume-indra.com Costume
Subject: [h-cost] stains on stored linen?

We're in the process of sorting, washing-musty-out, and re-packing the
fabric stash and have discovered about 5 pieces of mostly-white,
mostly-linen that has a FEW, random pink and/or blue-y/black-y spots. We've
only really noticed this tonite. Doesn't seem to be occuring on the white
cottons (I think).

I'm planning to pre-treat with Clorox2, and then cold-launder with Clorox2.
Have just had real good luck with that with a cotton bra that got a
raspberry down it all day 8-) which stain started pinkish, and then
turned sort of blackberry dark blue/black as I tried to wash it out.

Anybody have any idea what this might be, or why it's affecting the linen by
preference? oh yes, I double-checked, the cotton stain DID come out, except
for one very faint shadow the size of a dime.

thx much!!
chimene
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Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?

[Sharon Collier]

I forgot about the post-apocalypse! (grin)  Seriously, though, I should put
needles, thread and scissors into my earthquake emergency kit. Oooh, and
safety pins. Thanks for the idea. 
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of lis...@juno.com
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2013 4:57 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?

I have an old Husqvarna Viking that we got for free at a church flea market
a few years back--it was covered with paint splashes and was missing the
cords and pedal.  The nice church ladies gave it to us (saying they couldn't
sell it without the cord), and we were able to replace the cords and pedal
for under $30 on Ebay; Roger cleaned it up and serviced it--and I downloaded
the manual online.  (One of the really great things about the internet!).
This machine can sew 5-8 layers of leather or heavy vinyl!  I have it for a
back up, even though my workhorse machine is a 30-year-old Sears Kenmore.  I
have a Pfaff 1475--the quilter's machine--that is always set up, AND an
older Bernina stashed upstairs (In the post-apocalypse, electronic machines
may not work, so I wanted a plain electric machine that would work with a
generator!)  Not taking any chances.  My serger is a Bernina though and love
it too.

I've found that, since I sew,  people want to give me oldmachines all the
time; Grandma dies, and no one wants it!  I also have two pristine Singer
machine from the early 1960's, one is the Style-O-Matic, they both have
the hard cases, and work like champs.  One's at my cabin in WV (You never
know when you have to make a repair on something!)

Im not working on historical things right now EXCEPT for working on
scanning and organizing my hundreds of vintage photos and cards.  Flea
market season started, so Im already collecting more of them.  I have to
make a baby gift for a shower next weekend--going to make a fleece blanket,
and a wall hanging with an appliqued giraffe (that's her theme for the
nursery).  And I just got 4 tote bags of quilting fabric from a friend, as
well as 2 bags from the flea market, so there is quilting in my future, and
fabric organizing and storage to be done..  And I have one of my early tries
at 1860's in pearl grey wool blend with black accents that is going to be a
steampunk conversion (one of these days), as well as finishing up a SF
costume of a goddess.

Yours in cosutmign,LisaA


On Mon, 1 Apr 2013 05:12:05 -0400 (EDT) annbw...@aol.com writes:
 Yes, indeed. The place where I could go for while-you-wait service on 
 my Bernina is gone, and I had to wait about a month to have it fixed. 
 (Have to say, though, that is the first time in 12 years it needed 
 really serious service, knock on wood.) My backup machine isn't nearly 
 as spiffy as a Viking, though.
 
 
 Ann Wass
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Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?

[Sharon Collier]

You weave the fabric?
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of cah...@zoominternet.net
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2013 9:12 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?

Hi
There is a muslin for an Eliz jacket on the dress dummy, once I know the
size of the pattern bits,the cloth gets woven...
And yes I'm ready for the lack of electricity-treadles all up and running.
Including the very spiffy 2-Spool. I loves a bobbin the size of a small
spool!!!
Ta
Carol-we just aren't counting the number of machines G Nope, not going
there VBG


mail2web LIVE - Free email based on MicrosoftR Exchange technology -
http://link.mail2web.com/LIVE



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Re: [h-cost] Source for buttons?

[Sharon Collier]

Get regular white ones, then dye. 
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of annbw...@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2013 2:55 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Source for buttons?

I am looking for spherical pearl (or pearl-like) buttons--you know, like the
kind on long gloves--but in a smoky gray color, not white. Does anyone know
of a source?


Ann Wass
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Re: [h-cost] Source for buttons?

[Sharon Collier]

I don't dye them myself, but you can buy dyed pearls from places like Fire
Mountain Gems.
But if I did try, I'd get the dyes and fixatives from Dharma Trading Co.  in
Berkeley, CA.

Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Franchesca Havas
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2013 6:34 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Source for buttons?

How do you permanently dye pearls? I.E. dye them so that they do not bleed
on your fabric and do not fade if you wash your garment?

Franchesca
Magnus Crepitus Theoria


-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2013 5:00 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Source for buttons?

Get regular white ones, then dye. 
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of annbw...@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2013 2:55 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Source for buttons?

I am looking for spherical pearl (or pearl-like) buttons--you know, like the
kind on long gloves--but in a smoky gray color, not white. Does anyone know
of a source?


Ann Wass
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Re: [h-cost] Hairdresser recreates ancient hairstyles

[Sharon Collier]

Someone on Facebook posted a link to the complete video of her doing the
Vestal Virgin hairstyle. 
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2013 10:34 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Hairdresser recreates ancient hairstyles

 From the Wall Street Journal:

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424127887324900204578286272195339456.ht
ml?mod=wsj_share_tweet

Fran
Lavolta Press
Books on making historic clothing
www.lavoltapress.com
www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress
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[h-cost] Links to the hairstyle archeologist

[Sharon Collier]

Vestal virgins

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epz7n8uYXQY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epz7n8uYXQY

 

1520

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJj_O7pDgYw

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[h-cost] Old fashion paper

[Sharon Collier]

I bought an antique puzzle, and in the box, used to pad the pieces, was a
sheet of an old newspaper, The Cleveland Observer, dated April 21. 1928. AND
it was the front page of the fashion section! Showing dresses and hats, etc.

My question is, what should I do with it? It's rather torn, and yellowed.
And  I don't want to put it back in with the puzzle-non-acid paper is best
for that. Do you think It's all on microfiche already? Should I attempt to
tape the pieces back together?

Sharon C.

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Re: [h-cost] Old fashion paper

[Sharon Collier]

Whoops. It was the Cleveland Plain Dealer newspaper, not the Observer.
Brain hiccup.
Sharon

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2013 1:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Old fashion paper

I bought an antique puzzle, and in the box, used to pad the pieces, was a
sheet of an old newspaper, The Cleveland Observer, dated April 21. 1928. AND
it was the front page of the fashion section! Showing dresses and hats, etc.

My question is, what should I do with it? It's rather torn, and yellowed.
And  I don't want to put it back in with the puzzle-non-acid paper is best
for that. Do you think It's all on microfiche already? Should I attempt to
tape the pieces back together?

Sharon C.

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Re: [h-cost] old sewing thread

[Sharon Collier]

Well, you can always use it for handwork, or craft projects.  I've had
thread on old garments disintegrate (sleeves fell off) , but I'm not sure if
that was because of the garment being dry cleaned or something. It was a
1930's knit dress.  The fabric was fine, just the thread had rotted.
 I used to do a project at my kids' school--get a piece of lightweight
cardboard. Draw an X or circle on it and punch holes about 1/4 inch apart.
Sew- drawing thread from one hole to a set number of holes on--kind of like
a Spirograph, for those of you who remember this toy. Use different colors
and numbers of holes.
Sharon C. 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzanne
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2013 7:54 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] old sewing thread

Here's an odd question:  How long does cotton or silk sewing thread last?

At work today, we found an old cigar box full of Belding Corticelli thread
that probably dates back to the early 1950s.  (The small spools of cotton
were priced at 15 cents and the large ones at 25 cents.)  I was admiring the
beautiful shades of green. . . and then everyone else said it would all have
to be thrown out because it was too old to use in machine sewing.

I'd never heard of thread going bad so now I'm wondering if I was just
daydreaming that day in home ec class [quite likely!] or if this is common
knowledge for everyone but me?  (I also have a friend who refuses to use
vintage cotton fabric because it might rip, so there's another question for
you!)  I reeled out one spool of white and pulled hard, and it does seem
thinner than the polyester stuff they sell most places these days--but does
that mean it won't work even for lightweight projects?  Such a waste!  :-(

Suzanne


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Re: [h-cost] 14th c. German interpretation assistance

[Sharon Collier]

OK, on second look, I think the gold bit in the center front is the opening
for the cloak; and it is slit partway up the sides to allow for
riding/walking.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Pixel, Goddess and Queen
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2013 11:54 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 14th c. German interpretation assistance


So I have this friend who said if you make it for me I will wear it and I
want to make this outer garment: 
http://diglit.ub.uni-heidelberg.de/diglit/cpg848/0141?sid=8d563ad12e918dcb1c
d18fb352e23e86

I am having a disagreement with my other half about how to interpret it,
though. It's the only one in the manuscript, I just doublechecked, so
nothing to compare it with. Anyway and anyhow, what *I* read is that it has
sleeves attached at the shoulder but then the body is slit up all the way to
the armpit on the sides, or at least the left side. Then the sleeve seam is
on the bottom, and this seam is also slit to allow the arm to come out. And
it has buttons up the front.

Thoughts, anyone?

Jen
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Re: [h-cost] 14th c. German interpretation assistance

[Sharon Collier]

Looks like a typical hanging sleeve, with an opening in front to allow the
arm to come out  (not necessarily on the seam). The body of the garment
looks like it fastens offset, on the left front side, kind of like a double
breasted cloak. Similar to a Russian shirt, with the fastening on the left
side front. At least, from what I can see from the illustration. If you have
the Braun and Schneider book Historic Costume in Pictures, look at plates
22, lower right--the judge has a similar garment and plate 23, lower right,
French noblemen,  for better examples of the sleeve. 
Sharon C.
-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Pixel, Goddess and Queen
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2013 11:54 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 14th c. German interpretation assistance


So I have this friend who said if you make it for me I will wear it and I
want to make this outer garment: 
http://diglit.ub.uni-heidelberg.de/diglit/cpg848/0141?sid=8d563ad12e918dcb1c
d18fb352e23e86

I am having a disagreement with my other half about how to interpret it,
though. It's the only one in the manuscript, I just doublechecked, so
nothing to compare it with. Anyway and anyhow, what *I* read is that it has
sleeves attached at the shoulder but then the body is slit up all the way to
the armpit on the sides, or at least the left side. Then the sleeve seam is
on the bottom, and this seam is also slit to allow the arm to come out. And
it has buttons up the front.

Thoughts, anyone?

Jen
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Re: [h-cost] looking for Grannd Garb

[Sharon Collier]

You've spelled it wrong. Try again. I did a Google search and it was the
second item.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Purple Kat
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2013 4:39 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] looking for Grannd Garb

I just attempted to look for Grannd Garb (South River, NJ),  but can't
locate their web site.

Can anyone help??

Katheryne
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Re: [h-cost] looking for Grannd Garb

[Sharon Collier]

What are you trying to buy? Costume related stuff? If so, I know a few
companies.
Sharon

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Beteena Paradise
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2013 7:23 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for Grannd Garb

I'm not sure that listing is the same company... or at least that they are
operating in the same way and offering the same items as Grannd Garb (the
correct spelling). I found this on the interwebs:

Grannd Companies is undergoing changes. Customers with pending orders will
be contacted shortly via email. All back orders are being cancelled and any
funds due will be refunded. I want to thank all of our customers for their
support during difficult economic times, as well as our own personal
struggles. The future is still a bit uncertain but decisions are being made
regarding Grannd Companies and it's future. Additional information will be
available soon. Suzanne - 11/17/2009


Hope that helps! :)

Teena



 From: Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com
To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2013 8:23 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for Grannd Garb
 
You've spelled it wrong. Try again. I did a Google search and it was the
second item.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Purple Kat
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2013 4:39 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] looking for Grannd Garb

I just attempted to look for Grannd Garb (South River, NJ),  but can't
locate their web site.

Can anyone help??

Katheryne
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Re: [h-cost] Butterick 5832

[Sharon Collier]

It looks as if someone tried to make a pattern based on the dress from July
1839, (pink, in upper left corner), but mis-interpreted the drawing and made
it asymmetrical.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Marjorie Wilser
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2012 8:13 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Butterick 5832

Thoughts: not as early as 1837, because earlier sleeve fullness fell to the
elbow and only later (42-3) disappeared; wider bertha looks better to me,
but my reading suggests somewhere in between for depth.  
Note collection below shows an asymmetric bertha in one view. Not quite as
asymmetric as the pattern, but still.

Good collection of images here
http://www.darvillsrareprints.com/Ladies%20Fashions%201840.htm

 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW






On Dec 16, 2012, at 8:58 PM, humbugfo...@att.net wrote:

 New-ish pattern from Butterick, day dress 1837-1840 (mislabeled in the 
 pattern book as Civil War).
 http://butterick.mccall.com/b5832-products-27980.php?page_id=147

 Everything looks spot on to me, except for the oddly asymmetrical 
 bodice. That would have to be changed, but I can't decide if the 
 pleated bertha should be the wide right side or the narrow left side. 
 Any thoughts or comments?
 Julie
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Re: [h-cost] Modern sewing challenge - suggestions?

[Sharon Collier]

I wash my sons fleece slippers with  suede bottoms and they wash just fine.
In dryer on low, though. If you don't want the suede, go with material with
fabric paint--like little kids' no-slip socks.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Danielle Nunn-Weinberg
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2012 1:36 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Modern sewing challenge - suggestions?

Greetings,

I'm not able for much sewing these days but I'm attempting adult-sized
footie-pajamas. The problem I haven't solved yet is, what to make the bottom
of the feet out of.  My original thought was suede but I've never sewn with
leather or suede so I have no idea how it washes (I have a sneaking
suspicion not well...)...  So can anyone suggest something that has some
traction, is nicely flexible, washable, and can be sewn onto a couple of
layers of cotton flannel?  I need something  warm  cuddly, since our
post-war house was built with curious ideas about insulation (i.e. not much)
which isn't great in Minnesota winters.  ;-)  So, any suggestions would be
greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Danielle

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Re: [h-cost] A hoopskirt for your entertainment

[Sharon Collier]

Could it be celluloid? My grandmother had a celluloid dresser set. From the
early 1900's.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Laura Rubin
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2012 12:11 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] A hoopskirt for your entertainment

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-Hoop-Skirt-/230894469819

This was posted recently in a group I'm in by someone who's pretty convinced
that it's period. Plastic through and through but still entertaining! I love
the collapsing struts and the hatbox you can store it in.

-Laura
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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

[Sharon Collier]

Any help in the movie Mulan? It's been a while since I saw it, but it may
have some ideas.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of WorkroomButtons.com
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2012 6:18 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

...or Tales of a Band Mom.

This year's winter percussion piece is Terra Cotta Warriors and first
order of business... peasant costumes for kids in the pit (stationary
instruments like xylophones, chimes, etc.)

What the heck did Chinese peasants wear in 3rd century BC?  Our band
director is proposing simple wrap-style tunics (like short kimonos) and
scrub pants torn below the knee -- both dyed in earthy colors. 
Semi-accurate?  Horrible?  Are conical hats appropriate? --although I can
see them getting knocked off.  I'm clueless, and can find neither image nor
description.

Part II will be terracotta soldier costumes to be worn by very active
teenagers with drums, but I need to deal with the peasants first.

Help?
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Re: [h-cost] The new Anna Karenina

[Sharon Collier]

I've got to admit, the editing of the trailer is good. Looks
.interesting.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2012 12:16 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] The new Anna Karenina

After reading this review, I'm not going to bother watching the movie:

http://www.sfgate.com/default/article/Anna-Karenina-review-Off-the-rails-404
1627.php

Fran
Lavolta Press
Books of historic clothing patterns
www.lavoltapress.com
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?

[Sharon Collier]

Mine is being used as a hoop hanger--2 are hanging around her neck. I'm
working on refurbishing my Dickens bonnet. All black, as I play a widow; I
found some great black velvet leaves and black flowers. 
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 10:52 AM
To: H-costume
Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?

It's that time of year: holiday parties, winter balls, theater season,
company dinners, Dickens Fair, New Years Eve, cocktail parties,12th Night.
You might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale.  Whatever
the reason, h-costumers are probably making (or
re-making) something.  So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com

PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something marvelous on the
dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's on your
design sketchbook, worktable, at the sewing machine or even in the
embroidery hoop.
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Re: [h-cost] Mannequins for Dickens style costumes

[Sharon Collier]

And you can paint them all one color or something.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Brenda G. Ball
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 6:13 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mannequins for Dickens style costumes

Your best bet is to do a Google search for places that sell retail store
fixtures.  Then start calling the stores that say they sell used mannequins.
They may have nicks and dings, but they'll be a lot cheaper.  Good luck!

On 11/13/2012 5:27 PM, Paula Praxis wrote:
 I have been wanting to find mannequins on which I can display my Dickens
style gowns and frock costs. I would love to display a grouping for
Christmas.  Does anyone have a source or suggestion?  I live in Los Angeles
area.  Thanks for any help on this everybody.  This list is a treasury of
wonderful people with great ideas and resources.
 Paula
 Sent from my iPad
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Re: [h-cost] Machine embroidery

[Sharon Collier]

A friend of mine recently made an embroidered ruff (1575-ish) using the
simple stitches on her regular machine.  And she says, when you look at the
portrait she was copying (Lady Lincoln), it looks almost exactly like the
hand embroidery--same design.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2012 8:47 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Machine embroidery

Although it would be nice to do hand embroidery, realistically I have too
many other things on my schedule.  For a while I toyed with the idea of
getting a  high-end sewing/embroidery machine, but I already have two
perfectly good sewing machines and a huge price tag is a bit intimidating.
I am thinking of buying a Brother PE770, which is a fairly inexpensive
dedicated embroidery machine.  It takes a flash drive so I can import
designs from my computer.

I want to do historic embroidery designs and I want to create or at least
customize my own.  I'm used to using graphic design software (scan editing
and draw programs), but I know little about embroidery design software.  Any
suggestions?

Fran
Lavolta Press
Books on making historic clothing
www.lavoltapress.com



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Re: [h-cost] Travelling to the US, August 2013

[Sharon Collier]

If you're going to be near San Francisco at all, I attend Renaissance dance
class every Tuesday in Alameda. It would be fun to compare dances. 
Sharon Collier

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2012 2:05 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Travelling to the US, August 2013

Yes - you're right. At this stage I have listed Kentucky, Williamsburg,
Connecticut,  Massachusetts and am branching out from there. We're hoping to
teach dance workshops and/or call a dance for friends who can billet us and
help with some monetary contributions that can help pay towards our air
fares.
Era-wise we teach dances from 1450 Renaissance through to 1900 Vintage Dance
- all the styles in between. Costume-wise, I will probably just be taking my
regency and 1780s costumes as we'll be heading to the UK and the Jane Austen
Festival in Bath at the end.
Costume-wise - you probably already have enough experts out there teaching
georgian and regency stays and costume workshops, but that is what am
teaching a lot of here. I teach other eras but not as much.
Costume Event-wise - I attend as many historical costume
talks/workshops/displays as possible by others because I am really keen to
learn.

Hope that helps a bit more to give you a clearer picture.

*Aylwen Gardiner-Garden*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy http://www.earthlydelights.com.au
*
*Jane Austen Festival Australia* http://www.janeaustenfestival.com



On 12 October 2012 03:42, Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi Alwen,

 The US is even bigger than Australia. Where will you be? I think your 
 question is so huge that no one is able to answer it. Of course August 
 is near the end of our summer, so there's things going on all over the 
 country, coast to coast. You might also want to let us know what era 
 of event you're most interested in.

 LynnD

 On Wed, Oct 10, 2012 at 10:49 PM, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden  
 aylwe...@gmail.com
  wrote:

  Dear Historical Costume Friends
  I am organising a historical dance teaching trip to the US in August
 2013,
  following by a three-week historical costume and dance tour of the UK.
 Are
  there any good historical costume events on in August in the US that 
  I should consider attending?
  Many thanks,
  Aylwen
 
  *Aylwen Gardiner-Garden*
  *
  *
  *
  *
  *
  *
  *Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy  
  http://www.earthlydelights.com.au
  *
  *Jane Austen Festival Australia* http://www.janeaustenfestival.com
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Re: [h-cost] Hair and Reenacting

[Sharon Collier]

If your meds keep your pupils open, you should be wearing sunglasses all the
time, as going without could damage your eyes. Forget historical accuracy;
you don't want to go blind because of fashion!
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon Phillips
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 5:29 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hair and Reenacting

Thank you to everyone who had offered ideas for head coverings and ideas for
starting points for reasearched. I haven't done any costuming in the last
five years or so and I'm struggling to remember what I had learnt before
then.

I guess I'm also stressing a little because I'm already self-concious about
drawing attention to my face at events when I'm not wearing sunglasses. My
medication paralyse my eye muscles and pupils open,  and I usually I hide
that behind Ray-Bans. I dyed my hair to add colour to my face. The henna
colour in some lights is a metallic wine-red and in other lights the colour
matches a piece of burnt sienna coating I have. 
I don't remember seeing that shade of red as a natural hair colour but I
could be wrong.

I do know of a couple of local wigmakers locally who do make human hair
wigs. One of them will buy hair, which is what prompted this line of
thought. I do expect made to order wigs to be expensive like any craft that
takes many, many hours of hand work. Cost is one of the reasons I'm after
opinions and ideas before making enquiries to them.

I had not thought of using the hair for switches which sounds much more
feasible. How is the best way to make them into pieces that won't fall
apart?


Sharon Phillips
(I use Dragon Dictate to compose emails. Strange word substitutions may
occur.)
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Re: [h-cost] Puts the burden where it belongs!

[Sharon Collier]

So much time spent making viruses and malware---for what purpose? Now, if
those folks were to take up sewing instead...
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Charlene Charette
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 1:41 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Puts the burden where it belongs!

On Fri, Sep 21, 2012 at 1:00 PM, Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com
wrote:
 Um, you are aware that there could be accompanying text and the link 
 could still contain a virus?  All the junk my ISP's spamcatcher dumps 
 into my graymail has accompanying text.

 This is a ridiculous discussion, as the only person it matters to 
 whether you click on a link, is you.  Thankfully, this moribund list 
 seems to be moving on to some actual content.

Clicking on malware links doesn't affect only that one user. Some of these
links install malware on the clicker's machine and send the links to
everyone in their contacts list, including all the mailing lists. Since
these emails are from (or appear to be from) a trusted friend, more people
click them. This is how botnets are created.
Several lists I'm on are currently undergoing these attacks as more and more
members of the list are being infected.

--Charlene

--
Will I ever reach a point in my life when I won't need to recite the whole
alphabet in my head while alphabetizing?  -- Aaron Karo's Ruminations.com
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Re: [h-cost] 1849 Bonnet (1/12 scale)

[Sharon Collier]

Adorable! And my hat's off to you. I hate doing tiny stuff.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lauren Walker
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2012 4:18 PM
To: h-costume h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] 1849 Bonnet (1/12 scale)

Hi,
Thank you for all your help and advice on my first straw hat. I'm still
hoping to surprise someone with the dressed doll, so I won't post the whole
outfit until the project is finished, but I'm too excited about finishing
the hat not to show it to you. 

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.516383471710247.130900.1015797
4475type=1l=00cec87117 

Of course there's lots I have learned in making this hat and the next one
will be better. Im trying to work up the courage to try to reduce the
fray-check stain on the bow, I wish I had hidden my stitches in the lining.
Thing I'm still having the most trouble with is exaggerating details either
because I can't make them small enough or because I want them to be
apparent. The topline of the hat should have been straighter, the brim is
too big, etc. But I'm still pleased with it for a first try!

Thank you again!
Lauren  

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.wal...@comcast.net




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Re: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine

[Sharon Collier]

My daughter just got a new machine. We went to Eddie's Quilting Bee in Mt.
View, CA. She told them what she wanted and they steered her to a great
machine. Maybe contact them and ask for advice, or if you are close enough,
visit.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2012 3:52 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine

I do not want a serger, or an embroidery machine.  I want a machine with the
following features:

* Metal body
* Durability
* Infrequent need for service
* Not quirky
* Really good straight stitch
* Zigzag capability
* Easy buttonholes
* Ability to sew both light and heavy fabrics easily, including crossing
seams
* Free arm or narrow bed? so I can sew sleeves easily
* Probably the ability to lower the feed dogs
* Mechanical machine, except I'm confused about the term. Even the
mechanical machines (new not vintage) clearly have some computerization
* A machine that doesn't try to make my decisions for me!
* Probably a new machine, since I don't want to inherit someone else's
problems and want to be able to get parts easily
* Good track records.  I have bought two expensive machines (over time) that
were supposedly good machines from reputable manufacturers, yet they turned
out to be a chronic PITA

I am considering the Bernina 1008, since as far as I can tell the 1015 is no
longer made. But clearly other manufacturers are also making mechanical
machines.

Thanks for any advice.

Fran
Lavolta Press
Books of historic patterns
www.lavoltapress.com
www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress
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Re: [h-cost] Survivals in folk costume?

[Sharon Collier]

Fran, I went to Humboldt State University, in CA. The costume teacher used
to get wonderful old books from a traveling bookseller. He knew she was
interested in the costume ones and would save them for her. The really rare
ones were housed in the library basement, not just out on the shelves. We
had to sign in to go down there, but once there, we could browse to our
heart's content (assuming we had the time). I remember seeing a book of
German native costumes, dated in the 1930's if I'm remembering correctly.
That may be something like what you're looking for. You might contact HSU
and see if they'd let you browse the collection.
Sharon Collier

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2012 3:14 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Survivals in folk costume?

Has anyone written a book or books on medieval and/or 16th-century styles
surviving relatively unchanged in 19th-century folk costume? If so I'd like
buy it/them.

Fran
Lavolta Press
Books on historic clothing
www.lavoltapress.com

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Re: [h-cost] historical costume books

[Sharon Collier]

Nice to know, Thanks!


-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Franchesca Havas
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2012 10:54 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] historical costume books

The Maney Publishing copy published in 1988 is the more valuable copy. I
have both copies, this one and the 2001 republication. The paper quality is
better in the older publication and the images are sharper and deeper in
color than the 2001 copy.

The  2001 is currently being sold for anywhere from 100 to 118. The 1988
copy sells for anywhere from 250 to 300.

Franchesca


-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2012 10:16 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] historical costume books

Which year is the more valuable, and why?
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Franchesca Havas
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2012 6:36 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] historical costume books

You have two books that I immediately recognize to be very hot items to put
on eBay. QEWU (make sure to post what printing year it is, one is worth
twice the other) and Renaissance Dress in Italy. :)

Franchesca


-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon Zakhour
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2012 6:14 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] historical costume books

I don't have a full catalog, but I have some nice books that have been
barely used.  I haven't researched/figured out prices yet.  But here are
some:

Outcasts: Vol I by Ruth Mellinkoff
Outcasts: Vol 2 by Ruth Mellinkoff
The Hermitage, Leningrad: Gothic  Renaissance Tapestries Late Gothic
Europe, 1400-1500 by Margaret Scott Textiles and Clothing 1150-1450 by
Elisabeth Crowfoot (et al) Renaissance Dress in Italy 1400-1500 by
Jacqueline Herald Medieval Tapestries by Cavallo The Art of Embroidery by
Marie Schette The English Icon by Roy Strong Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe
Unlock'd

I have many others and many that cover more modern eras.  But this may be
the most interesting list to folks on this forum.



On 7/24/12 5:56 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:
 Here. (grin) What have you got?
 Sharon C.

 -Original Message-
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com]
 On Behalf Of Sharon Zakhour
 Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2012 1:30 PM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: [h-cost] historical costume books

 I have been a long time lurker on this forum.  :)

 I need to raise some money and want to sell off some historical 
 costuming books.  Other than ebay, is there a good place to sell books 
 of
this type?

 Thanks.
 ___
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Re: [h-cost] 15-century clothing finds--needle lace techniques

[Sharon Collier]

Interestingly , I learned a simple form of this lace--more of a net, in
high school. We were told it was based on fishing nets. Maybe that's where
lace originated.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2012 1:17 PM
To: Historic Needlework; Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 15-century clothing finds--needle lace techniques

http://www.uibk.ac.at/urgeschichte/projekte_forschung/textilien-lengberg/ind
ex.html.en

Fran
Lavolta Press
Books on historic sewing and needlework
www.lavoltapress.com
www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress
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Re: [h-cost] historical costume books

[Sharon Collier]

Here. (grin) What have you got?
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon Zakhour
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2012 1:30 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] historical costume books

I have been a long time lurker on this forum.  :)

I need to raise some money and want to sell off some historical costuming
books.  Other than ebay, is there a good place to sell books of this type?

Thanks.
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Re: [h-cost] historical costume books

[Sharon Collier]

Which year is the more valuable, and why?
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Franchesca Havas
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2012 6:36 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] historical costume books

You have two books that I immediately recognize to be very hot items to put
on eBay. QEWU (make sure to post what printing year it is, one is worth
twice the other) and Renaissance Dress in Italy. :)

Franchesca


-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon Zakhour
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2012 6:14 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] historical costume books

I don't have a full catalog, but I have some nice books that have been
barely used.  I haven't researched/figured out prices yet.  But here are
some:

Outcasts: Vol I by Ruth Mellinkoff
Outcasts: Vol 2 by Ruth Mellinkoff
The Hermitage, Leningrad: Gothic  Renaissance Tapestries Late Gothic
Europe, 1400-1500 by Margaret Scott Textiles and Clothing 1150-1450 by
Elisabeth Crowfoot (et al) Renaissance Dress in Italy 1400-1500 by
Jacqueline Herald Medieval Tapestries by Cavallo The Art of Embroidery by
Marie Schette The English Icon by Roy Strong Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe
Unlock'd

I have many others and many that cover more modern eras.  But this may be
the most interesting list to folks on this forum.



On 7/24/12 5:56 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:
 Here. (grin) What have you got?
 Sharon C.

 -Original Message-
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
 Behalf Of Sharon Zakhour
 Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2012 1:30 PM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: [h-cost] historical costume books

 I have been a long time lurker on this forum.  :)

 I need to raise some money and want to sell off some historical costuming
 books.  Other than ebay, is there a good place to sell books of this type?

 Thanks.
 ___
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Re: [h-cost] Nell Gwyn

[Sharon Collier]

Try this. Copy and paste in to the browser:
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=17th+century+woman+in+chemise+and+bodiceum=1
hl=enbiw=1055bih=734tbm=ischtbnid=vjpwIaiUWaQ-KM:imgrefurl=https://kar
leeaturner.wordpress.com/page/55/docid=nzL0NGGcaQhikMimgurl=http://karleea
turner.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/1830s_chemise_hayez.jpgw=295h=374ei=Kd
T8T7G8Hoi-rQHRwLSLCQzoom=1iact=rcdur=430sig=107558246607309879747page=4
tbnh=168tbnw=127start=73ndsp=26ved=1t:429,r:25,s:73,i:385tx=69ty=127

You should get a pic of an 18th century woman in chemise and bodice, but it
wouldn't have looked very much different form Nell Gwyn, except the hair
would have been different.
Sharon
-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Carol Kocian
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2012 4:57 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nell Gwyn


The url leads me to a blog, karleeaturner.wordpress.com, but her images all
seem to be 19th century. Can you tell us the date of the blog where she has
the 17thC image?

Thanks!
-Carol


On Jul 11, 2012, at 1:08 PM, Rickard, Patty wrote:

 Copy  strip  marks or use tiny URL below.

 http://www.google.com/imgres?q=17th+century+woman+in+chemise+and
 +bodiceum=1hl=enbiw=1055bih=734tbm=ischtbnid=vjpwIaiUWaQ-
 KM:imgrefurl=https://karleeaturner.wordpress.com/page/55/
 docid=nzL0NGGcaQhikMimgurl=http://
 karleeaturner.files.wordpress.com/
 2011/01/1830s_chemise_hayez.jpgw=295h=374ei=KdT8T7G8Hoi-
 rQHRwLSLCQzoom=1iact=rcdur=430sig=107558246607309879747page=4tbn
 h=168tbnw=127start=73ndsp=26ved=1t:429,r:25,s:73,i: 
 385tx=69ty=127

 http://tinyurl.com/c2ocwql

 Ceit


 -Original Message-
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume- 
 boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Charlene Charette
 Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2012 12:56 PM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nell Gwyn

 404

 --C

 On Tue, Jul 10, 2012 at 8:18 PM, Sharon Collier 
 sha...@collierfam.com wrote:
 Probably similar to this:
 http://www.google.com/imgres?q=17th+century+woman+in+chemise+and
 +bodic
 eum=1
 hl=enbiw=1055bih=734tbm=ischtbnid=vjpwIaiUWaQ-
 KM:imgrefurl=https
 ://kar
 leeaturner.wordpress.com/page/55/
 docid=nzL0NGGcaQhikMimgurl=http://k
 arleea
 turner.files.wordpress.com/
 2011/01/1830s_chemise_hayez.jpgw=295h=374
 ei=Kd
 T8T7G8Hoi-
 rQHRwLSLCQzoom=1iact=rcdur=430sig=107558246607309879747
 page=4
 tbnh=168tbnw=127start=73ndsp=26ved=1t:429,r:25,s:73,i: 
 385tx=69t
 y=127


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Re: [h-cost] Nell Gwyn

[Sharon Collier]

Probably similar to this:
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=17th+century+woman+in+chemise+and+bodiceum=1
hl=enbiw=1055bih=734tbm=ischtbnid=vjpwIaiUWaQ-KM:imgrefurl=https://kar
leeaturner.wordpress.com/page/55/docid=nzL0NGGcaQhikMimgurl=http://karleea
turner.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/1830s_chemise_hayez.jpgw=295h=374ei=Kd
T8T7G8Hoi-rQHRwLSLCQzoom=1iact=rcdur=430sig=107558246607309879747page=4
tbnh=168tbnw=127start=73ndsp=26ved=1t:429,r:25,s:73,i:385tx=69ty=127

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Linda Walton
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2012 2:54 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Nell Gwyn

I found this in the Oxford Dictionary of National Biography:

Pepys saw Nell again on 1 May 1667, standing at her lodgings' door in Drury
Lane (off Bridges Street, the site of the King's Theatre), 'in her smock
sleeves and bodice . she seemed a mighty pretty creature' (Pepys, 8.193).

Please, I'd very much like to know what Nell Gwyn was wearing:  can anyone
suggest an illustration which might help?

Linda Walton.


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Re: [h-cost] Nell Gwyn

[Sharon Collier]

Or this:
http://www.rwnaf.org/collections/item?id=4

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Linda Walton
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2012 2:54 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Nell Gwyn

I found this in the Oxford Dictionary of National Biography:

Pepys saw Nell again on 1 May 1667, standing at her lodgings' door in Drury
Lane (off Bridges Street, the site of the King's Theatre), 'in her smock
sleeves and bodice . she seemed a mighty pretty creature' (Pepys, 8.193).

Please, I'd very much like to know what Nell Gwyn was wearing:  can anyone
suggest an illustration which might help?

Linda Walton.


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[h-cost] FW: Great Apron Story

[Sharon Collier]

My mom sent me this and as it is costume related, I’ll pass it on.

 

 


 


(Notice that a Medium is a size 14-16)  

Description: cid:1.4094439775@web184409.mail.bf1.yahoo.com
Description: cid:2.4094439775@web184409.mail.bf1.yahoo.com
Remember making an apron in Home Ec? Remember Home Ec? If we have to explain
Home Ec you may delete this. I just don't have the energy anymore. Read
on.

Description: cid:3.4094439775@web184409.mail.bf1.yahoo.com

The History of 'APRONS' I don't think our kids know what an apron is.

The principal use of Grandma's apron was to protect the dress underneath
because she only had a few and because it was easier to wash aprons than
dresses and aprons required less material. But along with that, it served as
a potholder for  removing hot pans from the oven.

It was wonderful for drying children's tears, and on occasion was even used
for cleaning out dirty ears.  

From the chicken coop, the apron was used for carrying eggs, fussy chicks,
and sometimes half-hatched eggs to be finished in the warming oven.

When company came, those aprons were ideal hiding places for shy kids.

And when the weather was cold, Grandma wrapped it around her arms.

Those big old aprons wiped many a perspiring brow, bent over the hot wood
stove. Chips and kindling wood were brought into the kitchen in that apron.

From the garden, it carried all  sorts of vegetables. After the peas had
been shelled, it carried out the hulls.

In the autumn, the apron was used to bring in apples that had fallen from
the trees.
When unexpected company drove up the road, it was  surprising how much
furniture that old apron could dust in a matter of seconds.

When dinner was ready, Grandma walked out onto the  porch, waved her apron,
and the men folk knew it was time to come in from the fields to dinner.

It will be a long time before  someone invents something that will replace
that 'old-time apron' that served so many purposes.

Send this to those who would know (and love) the story about Grandma's
aprons.

REMEMBER:
Grandma used to set her hot baked apple pies on the window sill to cool. Her
granddaughters set theirs on the window sill to  thaw.  ٩(͡๏̯͡๏)۶   

The Govt. Would go crazy now trying to figure out how many germs were on
that apron.

I don't think I ever caught anything from an apron- but love... 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 


=

  _  

 

 

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Re: [h-cost] Dang! WTH Happened?

[Sharon Collier]

If you sewed horizontal channels in the back and added elastic running from
the side seam to the back opening, it might work.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of annbw...@aol.com
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 4:25 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dang! WTH Happened?

This discussion just shed some light on a vintage dress I have. It is a
1950s cotton sundress with a button-on halter strap. The bodice has elastic
shirred side panels. I now realize that is not just a design thing, but a
fit thing--it allows the bodice to adjust. But not something you can do to
retrofit this dress, I'm afraid.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Julie Tamura jtkn...@jtknits.cts.com
To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Sun, Jun 24, 2012 7:07 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Dang!  WTH Happened?


I just finished a 50's sundress for my daughter.  It has a fitted boned
bodice with a natural waist and a full skirt.  I spent a lot of time fitting
the bodice snugly to her.  After one wearing she can stick her hand down the
bodice and the straps are falling down her arms. It's 100% quilting cotton.
It was pretortured and we've washed  dried it again; it's still too large.
I'll rewash  dry it and then I'll have to take it in. I'm frustrated. Any
idea what could have happened? The bodice is even lined.
Julie
 


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Re: [h-cost] Dang! WTH Happened?

[Sharon Collier]

Can you put in lacing at the back? Can you put in horizontal channels and
elastic to take it in? (fiddly bit sewing, but could work).
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Julie
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 12:15 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Dang! WTH Happened?

This project was intended to teach me about fitting on someone else since
I've gotten discouraged trying to fit myself.  Hard to see your own back...

Daughter *wishes* she lost that much weight G.  And it was tried on AFTER
being washed  dried.

So should this have been fit skin tight or less?  Daughter kept saying it
was too loose and I kept saying it wasn't a corset.  How do you decide how
tight is too tight and just what is wearing ease?
Julie


  I just finished a 50's sundress for my daughter.  It has a fitted 
  boned bodice with a natural waist and a full skirt.  I spent a lot 
  of time fitting the bodice snugly to her.  After one wearing she can 
  stick her hand down the bodice and the straps are falling down her arms.
It's 100% quilting cotton.
  It was pretortured and we've washed  dried it again; it's still too
large.
  I'll rewash  dry it and then I'll have to take it in. I'm 
  frustrated. Any idea what could have happened? The bodice is even lined.
 
 Here's what occurred to me first.
 
 1) Could your daughter have lost enough weight to affect the fit? 
 Alternatively, does she tend to have water retention issues before her 
 menstrual periods?  If so, the difference between her pre-period and 
 post-period torso measurements might be causing the problem.
 
 2) Cotton garments are their tightest right after a wash and loosen up 
 in wear (as anyone who wears cotton denim jeans can attest).  
 Sometimes they can loosen up quite a bit.  If that's the problem with 
 your fabric, you may just need to make the bodice not just snug, but 
 actually tight, to get the desired post-wash post-wearing fit.
 Cathy Raymond

 First of all soundslike the fabric stretched.under the stress of 
 getting so cleft? It happens. Second, most bond stuff in my 
 experience hast to be somewhat over fixed with no ese and mat be 
 measuring up to four inches less around than the body it is going to 
 fit. The two sampled of this in rely life are cosettles and tight 
 jeans. and

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Re: [h-cost] Dang! WTH Happened?

[Sharon Collier]

To make it fit better, maybe put in some loops made of piping at the back
(or front, depending on the look she wants) and then a lace, so she can
tighten or loosen it to fit.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Julie Tamura
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 4:06 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Dang! WTH Happened?

I just finished a 50's sundress for my daughter.  It has a fitted boned
bodice with a natural waist and a full skirt.  I spent a lot of time fitting
the bodice snugly to her.  After one wearing she can stick her hand down the
bodice and the straps are falling down her arms. It's 100% quilting cotton.
It was pretortured and we've washed  dried it again; it's still too large.
I'll rewash  dry it and then I'll have to take it in. I'm frustrated. Any
idea what could have happened? The bodice is even lined.
Julie
 


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Re: [h-cost] looking for images - Fleury, Tresors de merovingienne

[Sharon Collier]

I speak a bit of French--what is their site? Maybe I can find them.
Sharon

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Althea Rizzo
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2012 10:23 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] looking for images - Fleury, Tresors de merovingienne

Hello! 

I am looking to find high-rez images of textiles that were published as
sketches in Les trésors mérovingiens de la basilique de Saint-Denis, Albert
France-Lanord, Michel Fleury, 1998.

Page 76 - Grave #1 - gold embroidered textile Page 83 - Grave #A9 - gold
embroidered/gold braid tunic

I have the sketches from the book which shows approximate placement, but am
hoping that there lurks somewhere photographs or more recent and detailed
sketches. My Googl-Fu hasn't been able to uncover anything. Nor is my French
good enough to find them on their image search site.

Thanks!

***

Althea Rizzo
alt...@alfalfapress.com
Suvia's Letters - A Merovingian material culture blog -
alfalfapress.com/suvia

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Re: [h-cost] looking for images - Fleury, Tresors de merovingienne

[Sharon Collier]

Go to the site. There is a word in orange, Recherche. Click on it and you
will get a new page. In the box labeled Recherche simple, type in -
Tresors de merovingienne.
There are 10 images. (10th is on the next page suivante) Hope that is what
you are looking for.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Althea Rizzo
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2012 12:18 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for images - Fleury, Tresors de merovingienne

I think this is it...

http://www.photo.rmn.fr/



Thanks!





On Wed, 20 Jun 2012 11:50:58 -0700, Sharon Collier wrote
 I speak a bit of French--what is their site? Maybe I can find them.
 Sharon
 
 -Original Message-
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] 
 On Behalf Of Althea Rizzo
 Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2012 10:23 AM
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] looking for images - Fleury, Tresors de 
 merovingienne
 
 Hello!
 
 I am looking to find high-rez images of textiles that were published 
 as sketches in Les trésors mérovingiens de la basilique de 
 Saint-Denis, Albert France-Lanord, Michel Fleury, 1998.
 
 Page 76 - Grave #1 - gold embroidered textile Page 83 - Grave #A9 - 
 gold embroidered/gold braid tunic
 
 I have the sketches from the book which shows approximate placement, 
 but am hoping that there lurks somewhere photographs or more recent 
 and detailed sketches. My Googl-Fu hasn't been able to uncover 
 anything. Nor is my French good enough to find them on their image search
site.
 
 Thanks!
 
 ***
 
 Althea Rizzo
 alt...@alfalfapress.com
 Suvia's Letters - A Merovingian material culture blog - 
 alfalfapress.com/suvia
 
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***

Althea Rizzo
alt...@alfalfapress.com

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Re: [h-cost] mid to late 15th century English women's clothing

[Sharon Collier]

Do a Google image search for effigies or  medieval effigies  (or
whatever is the best name for the era you're looking for). There are loads
of photos of tomb effigies and the cool thing is, they're in 3-d, not just
flat like a painting or brass.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Elizabeth W
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 5:02 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] mid to late 15th century English women's clothing

I'm seeking images of mid to late 15th century (Yorkist or early Henry VII
era) women's clothing in England
Thus far the only portrait I've found is Elizabeth Woodville
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ElizabethWoodville.JPG I like that
slightly rounded neckline and the contrasting collar but I'm hoping to try
for something that would be more plausible lower down the social scale e.g.
gentry level best dress
I've found some brass rubbings e.g.
http://www.mbs-brasses.co.uk/page245.html
http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1406326
http://professor-moriarty.com/info/section/church-monument-art/15th-century-
church-monuments-thomas-andrewes-brass-church-charwelton-no
but they don't really help with fabric choice. I'm trying to find more
examples so that I can work out if Elizabeth Woodville's use of a plain
fabric for the gown and a fancier fabric for the collar and cuffs is normal
or an anomaly and especially if matching her mini hennin to the collar and
cuffs is normal (as I've got about 1/2 yd of silk which should just cover
the collar and cuffs but won't manage the hat as well)

--
--
Elizabeth Walpole
http://magpiecostumer.wordpress.com/
http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/
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Re: [h-cost] product review

[Sharon Collier]

Return the damaged/less flexible sections. They may not be aware that the
product has so many defects per yard. Call or email them back, explain
where/why you are using the trim and ask that they  examine the sections
before they send them to you. Flexibility wouldn't matter so much if it was
on the body of a dress, or on a costume meant to be seen from 30 feet away.
They may be able to send you just what you need; after all, you are a
potential future customer and so are ALL your friends (us)! They don't want
a bad reputation.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Land of Oz
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2012 9:29 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] product review

 Just curious: Was it this one?

 http://www.gloryshouse.com/item_7959/XR115-Silver-Crystal-Clear-Rhines
 tone-Leaf-Vine-Trim.htm


 That's a lot of defects for a single
yard. Jeez.


Yes, that's the product. It was actually 2 yards, but on closer inspection I
found 3 more places where the flexibility of the trim is impaired, one more
missing stone and one place where it looks like it was repaired or joined
with a jump ring.

I did hear back from them and they are willing to replace the section with
the missing stones, but I'm concerned about the sections with little or no
flexibility. I plan on sewing this to the straps and bodice of a gown and
I'm not sure if the stiff sections will stand out or not. I think I'll have
to actually tack it down and see.

Denise
Iowa

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Re: [h-cost] product review

[Sharon Collier]

Actually, I'd return ALL the yardage you bought, with all the defects
marked, so they can see what you don't want in the replacement piece. 2
yards isn't a lot.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Land of Oz
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2012 9:29 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] product review

 Just curious: Was it this one?

 http://www.gloryshouse.com/item_7959/XR115-Silver-Crystal-Clear-Rhines
 tone-Leaf-Vine-Trim.htm


 That's a lot of defects for a single
yard. Jeez.


Yes, that's the product. It was actually 2 yards, but on closer inspection I
found 3 more places where the flexibility of the trim is impaired, one more
missing stone and one place where it looks like it was repaired or joined
with a jump ring.

I did hear back from them and they are willing to replace the section with
the missing stones, but I'm concerned about the sections with little or no
flexibility. I plan on sewing this to the straps and bodice of a gown and
I'm not sure if the stiff sections will stand out or not. I think I'll have
to actually tack it down and see.

Denise
Iowa

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Re: [h-cost] product review

[Sharon Collier]

Oh, and one more thing. If you paid using a credit card, you may be covered
for defective merchandise through the credit card company.
Sharon C. (who is going to shut up now)

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Land of Oz
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2012 9:29 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] product review

 Just curious: Was it this one?

 http://www.gloryshouse.com/item_7959/XR115-Silver-Crystal-Clear-Rhines
 tone-Leaf-Vine-Trim.htm


 That's a lot of defects for a single
yard. Jeez.


Yes, that's the product. It was actually 2 yards, but on closer inspection I
found 3 more places where the flexibility of the trim is impaired, one more
missing stone and one place where it looks like it was repaired or joined
with a jump ring.

I did hear back from them and they are willing to replace the section with
the missing stones, but I'm concerned about the sections with little or no
flexibility. I plan on sewing this to the straps and bodice of a gown and
I'm not sure if the stiff sections will stand out or not. I think I'll have
to actually tack it down and see.

Denise
Iowa

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Re: [h-cost] Brim Stiffening

[Sharon Collier]

I believe Stiffy is essentially white glue.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of cc2010m...@cs.com
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2012 8:17 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Brim Stiffening

In a message dated 5/25/2012 1:00:40 PM Central Daylight Time,
h-costume-requ...@indra.com writes: 
 From: Audrey Bergeron-Morin audreybmo...@gmail.com
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Brim Stiffening
 Message-ID:
 
 caa98qtohoeu+hkt3o+vpusx-+ilodtu43ptvdeytj4byptc...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
 
 On Wed, May 23, 2012 at 8:18 PM, R Lloyd Mitchell  
 rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu wrote:
 
 There is a product called Stiffy?( used by crafters who do lace 
 figurines). I think it has a plastic ingrediant that may work..?
 
 
 It's water soluble, so you'd better make sure you don't wear your hat 
 in the rain! I wouldn't risk it...
 

Ooh! That is extremely important to know. In that case, Stiffy does not
sound like the right stuff.

Thanks for the tip!

Henry Osier
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[h-cost] Old Irons

[Sharon Collier]

The Vermont Country Store has an old type steam iron , but it doesn't say
which brand and also a dry iron-just a heated, smooth surface.

Sharon C.

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Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents

[Sharon Collier]

For what it's worth, I glued rhinestones onto my daughter's socks when she
was 5 or 6. They lasted through numerous machine washings for a few years,
then got passed on to another little girl who also used them a lot. I think
the socks failed before the glue did. I used Aleene's  Jewel-It Washable
Glue. Great stuff!
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lynn Downward
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2012 9:20 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents

That's funny because it was The Rhinestone Guy who told us that they weren't
being made anymore because there wasn't a need for them. But as I said that
was 10 years ago or so and things do change.
LynnD

On Wed, May 23, 2012 at 9:40 PM, Pierre  Sandy Pettinger 
costu...@radiks.net wrote:

 www.rhinestoneguy.com also  has the rose montees - unfortunately you 
 can't order thru the website, you need to call or email.  But we've 
 gotten stuff from him and his prices are pretty good.

 Sandy



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Re: [h-cost] %$#* irons!

[Sharon Collier]

Maybe we should start an iron company, making them the way they used to.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Mary + Doug Piero Carey
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2012 6:58 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] %$#* irons!

Yes, many times that's just what I do.  But I should not have to!  What
torques my temper is that I had irons all through the 70s  80s that DID NOT
DO THIS, and I abused them far worse than my last several irons.  
There is NO D@MN BLUIDY excuse for purportedly high-end modern irons to fail
in this way when cheap irons made 40 years ago didn't fail this way.

Mary, muttering grumbling  grousing

On 5/21/2012 10:18 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote:
 Use the iron dry, do not fill, do not put on steam, use a spray or 
 sprinkle bottle separately.
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Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents

[Sharon Collier]

Fultonstrim.com has rhinestone yardage.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Land of Oz
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 10:36 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] rhinestone accents

I want to buy some rhinestone elements to sew onto a dress, but I'm not
finding what I need. I don't want individual sew-on rhinestones. The closest
I can come to what I want is vintage rhinestone jewelery - something that
looks a little like a tiara only in necklace form.  I've actually been
looking at vintage jewelry for something I can take apart, but so far all
I've found is too small and/or much too dark unless I start looking at the
really expensive pieces. (multiple hundreds!)

Modern formal dresses often have a fake buckle or something resembling a
brooch sewn on the bodice front or back, etc. What do you call these pieces?

Having a few more search terms to use might improve my google-fu.

Denise
Iowa

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Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents

[Sharon Collier]

Just sew on the back first, using an X stitch,  without the stone in it.
The back will be attached, but not going through the fabric. Then set the
stone into the prongs.
Sharon C.
-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lynn Downward
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 12:12 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents

Wow, those embellishments weren't even on my radar. They're lovely.

Unfortunately, no. These look like costume pieces when you get up close. The
sew-ons I'm talking about had a metal base with grooves formed into the back
making an 'x' through which you sewed the rhinestone onto the fabric. This
base wrapped around the glass 'stone.' They looked really, really good, very
much like the pronged ones do - without the backing forcing itself through
the fabric. I haven't seen them in years. I had a costume with hundreds sewn
to it (it cost a fortune and weighed a
ton) and am now planning to take them all off to reuse elsewhere. I bought
them at Berger's Beads or Bohemian Beads in downtown Los Angeles probably
30 years ago - they had millions - and haven't seen them since.
LynnD
On Wed, May 23, 2012 at 11:53 AM, lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote:



 Whilst I am playing the busybody, are these the sew-on rhinestones you 
 seek?

 http://www.firemountaingems.com/shopping.asp?skw=Swarovski-Sew-On



 - Original Message -


 From: Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 2:24:19 PM
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents

 Are you looking for rhinestone yardage? I have seen that JoAnn Fabrics 
 carries that in the recent past. However, I just looked on their 
 website and I don't see much. Perhaps you can check at some of the 
 large trim companies - Wright, Westrim, Plaid. I know I've seen it on 
 those plastic oval trim bolts on the trims wall.

 Are you actually finding the sew-in rhinestones you don't want? The 
 ones with the base attached to the stone and four little holes with 
 which you can sew the whole thing onto your fabric? Where?!? I was 
 told at least 10 years ago that those aren't being made anymore and to use
the prong jewels.
 The prongs tear silk taffeta and I don't like the way they snag onto 
 everything near them. Please share your source for the sew-ins. 
 Please, please. I've got some I used on a costume

 Thanks,
 LynnD

 On Wed, May 23, 2012 at 10:36 AM, Land of Oz lando...@netins.net wrote:

  I want to buy some rhinestone elements to sew onto a dress, but I'm 
  not finding what I need. I don't want individual sew-on rhinestones. 
  The closest I can come to what I want is vintage rhinestone jewelery 
  - something that looks a little like a tiara only in necklace form.  
  I've actually been looking at vintage jewelry for something I can 
  take apart, but so far all I've found is too small and/or much too 
  dark unless I
 start
  looking at the really expensive pieces. (multiple hundreds!)
 
  Modern formal dresses often have a fake buckle or something 
  resembling a brooch sewn on the bodice front or back, etc. What do 
  you call these pieces? Having a few more search terms to use might
improve my google-fu.
 
  Denise
  Iowa
 
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Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents

[Sharon Collier]

The ones I've worked with have one set of prongs that go through the fabric,
then the stone is set into it, trapping the fabric between the backing and
the stone. But if you sewed the backing on first on top of the fabric, then
set the stone, you wouldn't harm the fabric. And you could remove them
later.
Sharon

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lynn Downward
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 12:57 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents

Sharon,

will that work? It seems that the settings I've seen have double prongs -
one for the stone and one to go through the fabric.

I;d also like to apologize to Denise for kind of taking over her question.

LynnD

On Wed, May 23, 2012 at 12:47 PM, Sharon Collier
sha...@collierfam.comwrote:

 Just sew on the back first, using an X stitch,  without the stone in it.
 The back will be attached, but not going through the fabric. Then set 
 the stone into the prongs.
 Sharon C.

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Re: [h-cost] embroidery and irons

[Sharon Collier]

Fusible backing with thin linen on the inside. Non scratchy and cool.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of lynlee o
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2012 9:16 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery and irons



 

  I can't stand the scratchiness 
of the embroidery on a couple of outfits I bought in Florida the last 
time we went down for a shuttle launch, so, I need to devise a partial 
lining that won't make them too hot.  I do commercial embroidery by
machine. The embroiderer probably used a syntetic instead of cotton
underthread. You can't change that now, but there are fusable backings which
you can iron on to soften the backing.



 
I concluded that the way to get an old-fashioned iron was to just buy an 
old iron.  There are a lot of them out there.  I am very hopeful about 
my upcoming vintage GE (and since it has a polyester setting it can't be 
an antique!), but if that does not live up to its unused-looking shiny 
promise in the seller's photo and description, I will just keep buying 
old irons till I get one that works.My iron is a Sunbeam domestic one from
about 15 years ago. In light of your comments, I am in no hurry to upgrade
to a new one. The thing I found then was that most of the ones on the market
were nice and light to make ironing easy. I had one and biffed itas
instead of letting the weight of the iron do the work, I had to push down on
it to do any meaningful ironing. Give me a nice heavy one any day.I guess
you get used to your own equipment. The one thing I do to look after it is
to only use distilled water so I don't get gunk building up.Not only does it
cause gritty bits to fall out, it plays havoc with the theromstat. All water
is not equal. The less minerals the better for irons and car
batteries.Lynlee
 
  
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Re: [h-cost] Dressmakers dummy

[Sharon Collier]

I have  Uniquely You. It is good, BUT I wish I had bought a smaller size.
Then I could have padded it up to my corseted size. I find that even if I
put my corset on it, it doesn't squish enough. If I had gotten a smaller
sized one and padded it out with fiberfill, then covered it, it would have
been better.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Rachel Stimson
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2012 3:15 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Dressmakers dummy

Does anyone have any advice on what to look out for when purchasing a dress
makers dummy.  My mother has offered to buy me one in exchange for remaking
a jacket for my sisters wedding. I am in the UK.

Thanks
Rachel
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Re: [h-cost] %$#* irons!

[Sharon Collier]

Maybe Amazon Drygoods.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Mary + Doug Piero Carey
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2012 1:21 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] %$#* irons!

Fran complained about modern irons.

Amen, Sistah!   Not to mention the handles that have a sharp seam 
EXACTLY where it will chafe a sore spot onto your thumb if you need to iron
for longer than it takes to touch up a permapress blouse you forgot in the
dryer overnight.  And what is it with the spitting  dripping?  
They had that solved back in the 70s!  I wouldn't mind the inactivity
cut-off, if you could disable it for sewing sessions.  The last thing in the
world I need is an iron that cools off during a seam!

Mary, the equally exasperated

p.s.  I seem to recall a catalog with some old-fashioned irons in it --
maybe Vermont Country Store?  I'll have to go look.
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Re: [h-cost] %$#* irons!

[Sharon Collier]

I have a Westinghouse that changes color depending on the temp. This is
really good, as my last iron, while on low overheated and I melted a seam!

Sharon C. 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2012 1:49 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] %$#* irons!

The Vermont Country Store carries the Black  Decker Classic.  I've loved
the Classic for many years, and when my old one died, that was the first
replacement I ordered.  And returned after a few days of earnest trial.  It
leaked like crazy, and there was something seriously wrong with the
temperature, the auto-cutoff, or both.  I could never get it to heat and
stay hot long enough to iron everything.  So. it still has the old-fashioned
manageable size, the better positioned handle that gives the iron better
balance, the visible temperature dial . . . it just doesn't work.  Another
minus for cheap appliance manufacture in China.

I concluded that the way to get an old-fashioned iron was to just buy an old
iron.  There are a lot of them out there.  I am very hopeful about my
upcoming vintage GE (and since it has a polyester setting it can't be an
antique!), but if that does not live up to its unused-looking shiny promise
in the seller's photo and description, I will just keep buying old irons
till I get one that works.

Fran
Lavolta Press


On 5/20/2012 1:20 PM, Mary + Doug Piero Carey wrote:
 Fran complained about modern irons.


snip

 p.s.  I seem to recall a catalog with some old-fashioned irons in it 
 -- maybe Vermont Country Store?  I'll have to go look.
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Re: [h-cost] Thread- reluctant switcher needs suggestions

[Sharon Collier]

On a related note, I heard that using the wrong type of thread can damage
the fabric. Anyone ever hear of this and/or have more info?
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of annbw...@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 7:11 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thread- reluctant switcher needs suggestions


I knew answers on thread preference would be all over the map--some like
fancy pants European threads, some don't.Also interesting to note that
some want to match thread to fabric exactly, others don't care. As to color,
I veer towards the match exactly, but if I have a spool that is close, I
will sometimes use it. And, as I've said, sometimes I can't find a good
match with the European threads and had to fall back on Coats and Clark, but
only for hand sewing, since my Bernina can't handle it. Guess I'll try the
new formula, and see if I still have trouble. 

Ann Wass

-Original Message-
From: Ann Catelli elvestoor...@yahoo.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, May 17, 2012 8:34 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thread- reluctant switcher needs suggestions


The fancy-pants polyester European threads always shredded in my machine,
fwiw.
My workhorse cast-iron Singer worked just Fine with cotton-covered
polyester.
Ann in CT


From: Cin cinbar...@gmail.com

n cottons  cotton poly, I like Meineke (whatever the spelling) and uterman
best.  I, too, sneer at the shreddy CC thread.
n silks, I prefer Earth Bell, tho I've never seen it in the US.
-cin
ynthia Barnes
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